the regular: Absinthe Brasserie & Bar

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Like a second dining room (or home bar) to many folks around town, ~ABSINTHE BRASSERIE & BAR~ has been holding down the corner of Gough and Hayes for quite some time. Like its neighbor, Jardinière, it’s been a staple for the opera-symphony-ballet crowd, a destination for before or after a performance for years. It’s cocktail HQ, mixing some of the finest drinks in the city before people even had a glimmer of understanding that there’s much much more to life than cosmos or mojitos. And man, as of January of 2008, the joint has ten years under its belt.

I’ve come by over the years for bites here and there, like brunch (j’adore the corned beef hash and poached eggs), oysters and fries on a variety of dates, the onion soup has helped fix a bad day, a late-night burger has saved my tipsy ass, and I’ve loved some meals outside on the spacious sidewalk. But to be totally frank, based on the last few lunches I had a year or so ago, I didn’t quite feel like gearing up for the expense of dinner—the food didn’t feel cohesive, a little sloppy. Until the moment I heard they hired Jamie Lauren as executive chef. Then I wanted some dinner. Kind of like being sponge-worthy, I’d definitely say she’s splurge-worthy.

I first encountered Lauren’s exotically charged-but-straightforward cooking at Levende, and was excited for her foray into Indian-inspired fare for the Prana (at Temple) project, which was later put on hold. She’s an innovative chef, and when she landed at Absinthe, I wondered how her style would jive with the menu, loaded with classics people will throw a fit over if they’re fussed with. Well, she’s done it, integrating her inspired touch, creating modern brasserie fare with farmers’ market savoir-faire. Let’s just say if you haven’t been by for dinner for a while, then welcome back Kotter!

While you’re mulling over the menu or parked at the bar, order the spicy fried chickpeas ($3.75), crunchy little demons with a hit of spices and herbs. Brilliant bar snack. The scallop crudo ($14) was one of my fave dishes, three lovely coins of fresh scallop, sprinkled with rosemary sea salt, and the tang of lemon agrumato (an olive oil that is crushed and made with whole lemon), caviar, and micro herbs. Refreshing, yet decadent. Of course you can also do the famed oysters—there are usually five to choose from, at $3 a pop.

Naturalment, there’s the French onion soup, but if you’re up for some change, Lauren has a way with soups—you can tell she’s really into them. One night it was a smooth and satisfying celery root with ham hock, Pink Lady apple, fried sage, and a tickle from some Buddha’s Hand citron oil.

There are some larger plates you can share, like a classic frisee salad ($14), with chunks of smoky Benton’s bacon, and a wicked fried duck egg draped on top, promising extra yolky indulgence. There’s also the warm duck confit salad ($16). I know, whoa, those prices veer on the spendy; to be clear, a meal here is more on the higher end of moderate. But in this dish you get a fully meaty leg and thigh, and wait until you taste the ingredients, the duck with its dreamy fat and skin combo that is good in the way Peking duck is good, so good, but oh so bad, plus gorgeous fresh chicories and a tangy Dijon vinaigrette. Like a L’Oreal girl, it’s worth it.

My dining partner tried the shellfish stew ($28), with chunks of house-made chorizo, and a satisfying buttery broth with Chimay Blanc (watch it, you’ll empty the bread basket), plus Lacinato kale, an inspired addition, and garbanzo beans. The seafood included meaty Manila clams, white gulf prawns with the head on, and green-lipped New Zealand mussels, all fantastically fresh and cooked just right.

The hand’s-down crowd pleaser is the pork confit ($24), the equivalent of French carnitas, a shoulder cooked in duck fat for four hours and then crisped up in the pan, served with braised cabbage, Serrano ham, and crispy pan-fried spätzle. Yeah, it reads like an exercise in cholesterol cruelty. And even though it’s $24, the portion is enormous, totally Manwich size. In fact, I made some wicked tacos for lunch the next day with the leftovers. Heh. Viva French carnitas!

The menu isn’t a total meat-fest—vegetarians could do the melted leek flatbread ($15), or a seasonal risotto with wild mushrooms and rainbow chard ($25), and there are all kinds of vegetable sides and salads—Lauren is a big one on what’s fresh and in season.

The cheese course here is almost a must, or you can merge cheese and dessert and do the apple and Epoisses tart ($8), with calvados ice cream and cider caramel. Yeah, dude. The hazelnut cake ($8) with Blue Bottle Coffee ice cream was also good, but an Epoisses tart, come on, how could it even try to compete?

Service here is almost always on point—even while briefly waiting near the host stand for my friend, I was approached three times by different people, asked if there was anything I needed. The masterful cocktails here, heck, they need no introduction. And good for them for keeping many of them at $9. (Well, for now.) I will say what’s happening in the kitchen under Lauren’s vision and the magic that continues at the bar definitely jive—there’s a compelling play of elements and ingredients going on.

I recommend this place for a date that’s romantic but not too-too, a late-night bite or even a late afternoon meal, and it’s a charming choice for out-of-towners who want to take in a little city vibe—there’s always a nicely eclectic crowd here, and the people-watching from the big windows or along the sidewalk is some of the city’s best.

Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
398 Hayes St.
Cross: Gough St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

415-551-1590
website

Lunch
Tue–Fri 11:30am–2pm 


Dinner
Tue–Sat 5pm–10pm
Sun 5pm–10pm 


Brunch
Sat–Sun 11am–3pm 


Cafe Menu
Tue–Sat until 12am, Sun until 10pm

Apps $8–18
Entrées $24–$32
Desserts $8