the chatterbox: May 30, 2006

Big news: just when you thought Blue Plate and Emmy's Spaghetti Shack had cornered the market on SF-funky/eclectic restaurants in the Outer Mission, the executive chef of Emmy's Spaghetti Shack for the past five years, Sarah Kirnon, will be taking part in a new restaurant called ~THE FRONT PORCH~. Her partners in the venture are Josie White, a waitress and manager of Emmy's, and the ever-amicable Kevin Cline from Bix, who started tending the bar and made his way up to GM during his five years there. For the record, everyone at Emmy's is being really supportive, treating the Front Porch like a "sister shack." Emmy's is considering promoting their current sous chef to take over for Kirnon, and it's also being discussed to have Kirnon continue consulting on the menu.

The Front Porch space is the former home of Dominic's Club, which prior to that was known as The Venetian, a hotspot in the '50s for high rollers (29th Street used to have a light rail station, and was a really vibrant area). The space dates back to 1933, and is being renovated to have a homey and New Orleans-inspired feeling, while still preserving some of its Brat Park-clubbiness. The owners envision making this a fun, hip, and affordable destination where people can come together, catch up, and can actually afford to make it their weekly hangout spot. There will be booths along the wall, an imprinted tin ceiling, antiques and retro touches, pictures and mirrors, tables that feature vintage tabletops that have been re-set on new bases, a mahogany bar, an open kitchen, and about that front porch: the front will offer outdoor dining and will double as a waiting area, or just a spot where you can kick it. It's meant to have a beer garden-feeling (albeit a small one—there's room for about 15 people), with plants plus four or five rocking chairs. The interior will seat 55-60, with room for 8-10 at the bar. They're starting with beer and wine, and are hoping to secure a liquor license. (Fingers crossed.)

Okay, so the vittles! It's going to be based on the British concept of a "gastropub," a restaurant style that has been traveling its way west and making some appearances on the New York dining landscape. A gastropub is a classic pub venue with a distinct neighborhood vibe, and known for serving better-than-usual pub fare. Kirnon, who is from Barbados, will be preparing a menu of simple fare and comfort food, but with some heavy Caribbean influence, and a world-class chef's touch and execution. The ingredient-driven menu will feature organic meats and veggies, with dishes like tuna tartare paired with green plantains, duck breast with a spicy papaya sauce, house-cured salmon and salt cod fritters with tarragon crème fraîche, grilled items like a pork chop with a caraway coleslaw, and they plan on serving the best fried chicken in town, using a recipe from Kirnon's grandma. The food will be incredibly affordable, with most entrées running from $9-$15, and nothing over $20. Even cuter—some of the food will come in the old-school little plastic baskets. Cline is a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, and is keen to bring back the $6 delicious glass of wine. You'll be able to start making it "your joint" come July. Dinner will be served nightly, and the hours will be Mon-Thu 5:30pm-10:30pm, and until 1:30am Fri-Sat. There will also be a lunch/brunch on Saturday (12pm-11:30pm) and Sunday (12pm-9pm). 65A 29th St., at Mission and San Jose, www.thefrontporchsf.com (eventually).

The long-vacant corner on Duboce and Sanchez will soon have a neighborhood café from the owner of the Dolores Park Café, Rachel Herbert. The space was formerly Cooper's Gourmet, a wine and cheese place, and by late June-early July will be transformed into ~DUBOCE PARK CAFÉ~. It will follow the very successful format of Dolores Park Café, serving coffee, smoothies, sandwiches, salads, and soup. There will be the same focus on organic ingredients, including Niman Ranch beef and ham, and there will also be beer and wine offered. There will be outdoor seating, and a large window was added so patrons can look out onto the park from the L-shaped bar inside. The interior will look slightly more modern than Dolores Park Café, utilizing lighter wood, with greens and oranges on the walls. Herbert stressed she is striving for the café to be a community space, a true café where the neighborhood can come together, hang out, and enjoy a fresh meal. Duboce Park Café will be open daily for breakfast, lunch, and a light dinner, from 8:30am-8pm.

Those who live and work near the SOMA roundabout will be happy to know a spiffy patisserie will be opening in August called ~PATISSERIE PHILIPPE~. The location will be in the new Roche Bobois building, across from the SEGA building. After four years with Pascal Rigo's Bay Bread, you can bet Philippe Delarue knows his pastry. The space will feature an Art Deco look, with light pink and silver figuring prominently, plus vintage cake stands, and chandeliers that were sourced in France. There will be two large mahogany cases, each with a marble top—one for making sandwiches, like panini and baguette sandwiches, and the other for the pastry. There will also be salads and it wouldn't be truly French unless there was some pâté (which there will be). It will have ten tables inside—outdoor seating is TBD. The patisserie will be open from 7am-6pm, closed on Sundays. 655 Townsend at 8th St.

The Portland-based ~MOONSTRUCK CHOCOLATE COMPANY~ will be opening up in the Marina in the old Mrs. Field's space this September. Moonstruck is known for its hand-crafted artisan chocolates and award-winning truffles. The café will also serve chocolate-based desserts and beverages with chocolate in them, like their Chocolate Chai drink. 2109 Chestnut St.

Sadly, I saw on Chowhound that Berkeley's ~BENDEAN~ has closed as of this past weekend. The owner, Lance Dean Velasquez, reportedly wanted to spend more time with his son (Ben) and less at the restaurant. He was formerly the chef at NeO (remember that joint?) and JohnFrank (later Home) on Market Street here in the 415. I wish him luck… people will miss his cooking, and especially that wicked early dinner deal he offered for $13.50!

the regular: Chouquet's

It's one of those perfect sunny days in SF, and you feel like you have a cocaine bag's chance of survival in a tranny bar in finding a table to sit outside in the sun somewhere. This is not by any means a sure thing, but for some reason the two times I thought of ~CHOUQUET'S~ on upper Fillmore for brunch or lunch on a sunny day, I've found a table. Good enough odds for me. Now I might be totally screwing that up. Oh well.

Why all the seating? Could be due to the fact that the tables are downright diminutive, so they can pack more people out there. The tiny tables are also really close, so you'll get to know your neighbors quite well—not a good place for serious conversation with your lunch partner about who you think gave you herpes. (That conversation shouldn't happen in public, period.) This corner gets some serious sun in the afternoon, it's lovely. Even if you don't score an outside table, the inside has large enough windows that open, and it's a sleek little modernista space in wood and orange. But the whole point is to sit outside, right?

Their brunch menu used to be a little funky and non-brunchy (five salads, a steak dish, plus a quiche, a croque monsieur, and an omelette that gets really freaking expensive if you want more in it besides eggs), but now they've added some egg benny dishes too. (In the beginning they were probably like, "So, zee menu. Hmmmmm. Vat is theeeis brunch américaine? Zey should just have un salade. Cochons!")

Since I'm such an egg-hound, I just ask them to madame my monsieur and throw an egg on top. They cooked it perfectly. My croque was cheesy, bready, eggy, and hammy, just as it should be. Forget an American in Paris—I was an American with an egg. And with a nice mixed greens salad on the side to boot. Pal had the quiche Lorraine ($8), which seemed to suit her fine. Fresh squeezed OJ ($4.50) is also a nice touch. Yeah, the prices can be a touch Pac Heightsy, but hey, they gotta pay that rent.

Chouquet's
2500 Washington St.
Cross: Fillmore St.
San Francisco, CA 94115
415-359-0075
website

Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30am-3pm
Brunch Sat-Sun 10am-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sun 5:30pm-10pm

Benedicts $9-$12
Croque $9
Omelette $8
Salads $10-$14.50

the regular: Phoenix Bar & Irish Gathering House

Some people swear by the brunches at the ~PHOENIX BAR & IRISH GATHERING HOUSE~, or come here to watch whatever game is on (eek, well, in my book, sorry) over some pints with the boys. Reportedly, their shepherd's pie is delish, and breakfast brings boxty and a traditional Irish breakfast. But I am not writing about any of these occasions.

What I'm here to cover is the total pile of juicy corned beef love that showed up in between two grilled slices of rye bread one day when I was in the Mission, and totally freaking hangry (that's hungry and angry combined, an irresistible term I learned from a funny stranger at a taco truck one day). I was in dire need of some serious food and drank, and I'll be damned, that sandwich and a pint totally nailed it.

Juicy corned beef is just the best. The fabulous sandwich flavor spectrum (patent pending) was further enhanced with some cheddar cheese, kicky mustard, and some snappy pickle slices. It was a monster of a sandwich, but you know I finished it.

You also have the option of getting the evil potato skins they offer, instead of fries. I say get the tato skins. Clever use of the skins, I might add. Smart kitchen. An ice-cold pint of Bass, and I was totally set. My pal had the burger, and some other beer from the long line of taps running the length of the bar—I don't remember what kind, I was way too into my sandwich. Rolling Stones were played, and some other good classic rock. The lights were dim, especially at the back tables, which would be great if you're nursing a hangover.

And like a true pub, the place doesn't close all day, so they are seriously there to take care of you, whatever your damage (Heather), at whatever time. Pleasant servers. I also loved the fact that after our waitress took our order, she brought over a basket of homemade soda bread. Rock! So while I was pondering the ETA of my pastrami, my beer and soda bread combo were already making me more happy than hangry. I am healed!

Phoenix Bar & Irish Gathering House
811 Valencia St.
Cross: 19th St.
San Francisco, CA 94110

415-695-1811
website

Mon-Fri 11am-2am
Sat-Sun 10am-2am

Sandwiches $7-$12

fresh meat: Chez Maman

This is the third location of the ~CHEZ MAMAN~ empire, and they found a très charmant spot to set it up in: the old Night Monkey space on Union. It's a little off the beaten path of the main drag of Union, so if you need a location for a slightly incognito lunch with your lover (i.e. not your S.O.), you could probably get away with it here. (You heartbreaker.) Remember, we're getting Frenchy here. Get your Belle de Jour sunglasses on.

Out front there are a few tables with classic bistro chairs for those who like to dine al fresco, and there's a patio in the back which I hope they'll be getting set up for outdoor seating before the summer is up. There's also a little private room/nook in the back of the restaurant with a table that could seat 8-10 folks or so—ideal spot for an intimate birthday dinner gathering. I wouldn't want to be in it during the day, however—it's vampire dark back there.

Met a pal here for lunch, and while the quesadilla section is a little disconcerting to see fraternizing on the menu amidst the crepes and mussels marinière and Niçoise salad, it's their beloved burger ($9) that pulled me in. The French can really do good things to a burger, it's true. The roll is the softest thing—it's like it's part brioche, part bun. Squish squish. Delightfully fresh. Some might complain the burger was too small for the bun, but the patty size was just right in my book. It was wicked juicy, with a nice herby taste, and cooked a just-right medium rare. Why do they rock their burgers so hard? They just do. A touch too much Roquefort cheese (Did I say that? Too much cheese?) but otherwise a winning burger for sure. You can even get an egg on your burger if you so wish. (I'm not the only one out there, thank God.) Also comes with caramelized onions on the side, and aioli too, thankyouverymuch. You can choose a side salad, or killer frites with a dusting of herbs. You're already in on the burger, so go the whole hog and get the frites for crying out loud.

Pal had a chicken/pistou/tomato/roasted pepper panino ($9), which is grilled and served in a cute heart shape. Awwww. Tomato was mealy (it was out of season, duh), but we'll forgive them. Remember that heart.

While the space doesn't have the cute cramped little counter vibe of the original on 18th Street, it does have pleasing apricot walls with that classic imprinted wainscoting whose exact name escapes me right now (anyone?), ladies lunching at copper-topped tables, men having mid-day red wine sessions at the small counter (with hooks underneath, always a thoughtful detail), some electronica on the sound system, and some bona fide French waiters who will either charm you, annoy you, or ignore you—perhaps all three.

Dessert, if you're up for a piggy lunch, should be the Nutella and banana crepe ($7). There's also the option of a crepe Suzette ($6.50), or of course crème brûlée, chocolate mousse, and other Frenchy standards. It's how to say oink in French.

Chez Maman
2223 Union St.
Cross: Fillmore St.
San Francisco, CA 94123
415-771-7771

Open daily 11:30am-11pm
Brunch Sat-Sun 10:30am-4pm

Panini $9-$10
Burgers $9
Crepes $8.50-$9.50
Dessert crepes $6.50-$7

the socialite: Mattanza Dinner

Check out this unusual dinner from the fabulous folks at ~INCANTO~, their third Sicilian Mattanza dinner: On Monday, June 12, Incanto will host a very special evening, exploring and celebrating the centuries-old Mattanza, a ritualistic communal hunt for tuna off of the west coast of Sicily.

With the steady decline in the worldwide blue fin tuna population, the tradition itself has nearly passed. We honor it each year with this special dinner exploring the culinary, cultural, and historic aspects of the tradition.

More information about the dinner, including a preliminary menu can be viewed here

Mattanza Dinner
Incanto
1550 Church St.
Cross: Duncan St.

415-641-4500
website

June 12

$65 per person excluding beverages, tax, and service

the socialite: Commonwealth Club Panel Discussion

Photo courtesy of Ferry Building Marketplace

Another option on June 12 is this ~COMMONWEALTH CLUB PANEL DISCUSSION~ about organic food standards:

"While more and more people visit farmer's markets across the country and grocery stores increase shelf space devoted to organics, many consumers remain unaware of the controversy simmering behind the scenes. This evening's discussion will take a bold look at organic standards past, present and future and discuss the impact large mainstream food companies have as they increasingly get involved in growing and selling organic food. Will the booming growth propel the change in agriculture that organic proponents have long sought? How are the hard won standards and the ideals behind the organic food movement maintaining their integrity in the face of this growth?"

Panelists:
SAM FROMARTZ, Author, Organic, INC.: Natural Foods and How They Grew
DIANE GOODMAN, Organic Industry Consultant
HELGE HELLBERG, Executive Director, Marin Organic

Moderator:
PEGGY MIARS, Executive Director, California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF)


Commonwealth Club Panel

The Ferry Building Marketplace
2nd floor
Port Commission Hearing Room
Monday June 12

5:30pm check-in/wine and cheese reception
6pm-7:15pm program
7:30pm-8pm book signing

$12 for members
$18 for non-members
information and tickets

the socialite: The Taste of Western Australia

Okay, winos. Time to check out some wines of Western Australia at the first ~TASTE OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA~ in North America. Wineries from Margaret River, Pemberton, Perth Hills, and Blackwood Valley will be organized by their appellation to illustrate the breadth and variety of the Western part of the country. More than 30 wineries from Western Australia will be pouring over 150 premium wines. Winemakers will be on hand to discuss their latest releases. Top wineries include Vasse Felix, Cullen, Devil’s Lair and Leeuwin Estate.

The Taste of Western Australia

World Trade Club
1 Ferry Plaza (behind the Ferry Building)
San Francisco

June 12

Tasting 6pm-8pm

$30 per person (includes parking)
Purchase tickets here

the starlet: May 30, 2006

So I heard that Busta Rhymes was kickin' it at Cortez while staying at the Hotel Adagio. Word is they tend to be a good hip-hop hotel. Now you know.

Tommy Lasorda ate at the Fior d'Italia on Saturday night. Supposedly he digs their pasta all'amatriciana and their minestrone.

This cracked me up: Deniece Williams ("Let's Hear It For The Boy"/Footloose soundtrack fame) was seen at Teatro ZinZanni sporting a purple feather boa, and looking fab. Work. Reportedly she was very quiet at first, but after couple of martinis she became very chatty. Martinis tend to do that.

And one of the coolest chicks ever, Deborah Harry, was seen at the Clift Hotel this week. I know, it's not like she was at Asia de Cuba, but I had to put it in, restaurant or not!

the chatterbox: May 23, 2006

Oh, so you don't think my Sideways gaffe was the only place where I was asleep at the wheel, do you? How about this one: I completely spaced on telling you the fantastic news about who the chef is going to be at the new ~YOSHI'S WORLD CLASS JAZZ HOUSE & JAPANESE RESTAURANT~ at the Fillmore Jazz Heritage Center. Excuse me while I put down this bong (kidding) and tell you: Sho/Shotaro Kamio, formerly of Ozumo! How's that for a coup?! You might remember Sho was on the brink of opening his namesake restaurant in the Marina, but the deal fell through. I'm glad he didn't leave SF—his unique and contemporary take on Japanese cuisine would be welcomed anywhere. So come Spring 2007, Sho will be back in effect. The owner of Yoshi's, Kaz Kajimura, says, "My dream chef has materialized. I could not have imagined anyone better." I have to say, he's right. Sho is currently building his dream kitchen, and planning the menu for the 420-seat jazz club and restaurant.

Been hearing really good things about two restaurants that opened last week, ~BRICK~ (1085 Sutter St. at Larkin St., 415-441-4232) and ~BONG SU~ (http://www.bongsu.com/). I was at the opening party for Bong Su and the space is definitely spiffy. Naturally, I'll let you know once I've formally checked 'em out!

I also heard from my friend at the 222 Club that ~farmerbrown~ finally opened last week. Can't tell you much since after swinging by twice to drop my card off, I didn't get any callbacks. I know, they're busy. But hey, I tried. (Twice.) The space looked cool, with distressed metal touches, like copper and some oxidized bits. Nice long bar. The owner is Jay Foster, formerly of Blue Jay Café on Divisadero, and according to their website, it looks like there will be some entertainment in the evenings. Groovy. 25 Mason St. at Market St., 409-FARM.

The Castro will soon have a slick little place to hang out, tucked under the infamous Café on Market Street. While the 23-year-olds wiggle to the latest Madonna remix and get drunk on Midori in the bar/club upstairs, the adults will be downstairs in ~CRAVE~, a lounge/restaurant from the same owners (they also own Malacca on 18th Street). Executive Chef Matthew DuTrumble was the opening chef at Geranium, the vegetarian restaurant in Bernal that closed at the end of March, and was also a chef/instructor at the CCA. Crave's approachable American-goes-International menu will have a big focus on health and creativity, showcasing new flavors and fresh ingredients. The restaurant concept is that it will be an ideal place to swing by and have a drink and a bite to eat before heading out for the evening, or winding down with some late-night nibbles (it will be open until 3am Thu-Sat). The menu will include share-ables like grilled prawns with a Marsala-spice rub and coconut cream sauce, a grilled four-cheese pizza, and New York sliders in a potato bun with shredded carrots, tomato, and their special house sauce, kept company with crumbled Gorgonzola, caramelized onion, sautéed mushrooms, and a house pickle. (Dishes will hover around $6-$12.) Dessert will feature a dish DuTrumble is calling Rendezvous Fondue, with Bailey's Chocolate, Tuaca toffee, and Amaretto white chocolate fondue served with butter cookies, cereal bar treats, candy bars, fresh fruit, almonds, brownies, and cheesecake balls. In fact, a number of the dishes and desserts will feature alcohol from the bar—even the ribs will have a Seagram's and 7up barbecue sauce.

The loungey space is designed by Lucy Dawson (who did the Malacca design), and will feature a loft with black leather ottomans for seating (a few will be flat-topped for food to rest on them) and a DJ booth, while the downstairs will have a sleek onyx bar with stainless steel wrapping and an under-light, plus curving banquettes and tables for more traditional seating. The space will be lit with a groovy LED lighting system that seems to be built in to the ceiling (LED is popping up everywhere: first Supperclub, then Temple and now Crave) and will reflect off the mirrors. Crave is opening June 2, Sun-Wed 6pm-11pm, and Thu-Sat 6pm-3am. 2367 Market St. at 15th St., 415-865-0192.

On the other side of town, one of the best late-night dining places to hit (try 1am, nightly, people), ~CAFÉ MARITIME~, is going to start taking care of the morning risers too, by serving weekend brunch as of June 10. Expect some delicious brunch fare like crab frittata, their lobster roll and crab and shrimp corn fritters, and some brekkie classics, like pancakes, French toast, and perhaps some huevos rancheros. Don't forget they have that great raw bar, and a full liquor license, so Bloody Mary can join you at your table.

So check this out: it ends up ~HAWTHORNE LANE~ is following the steps of Charlie Trotter and has taken foie gras off the menu. Hawthorne Lane served their last PB&J with foie gras from Sonoma Foie Gras about a week ago… I spoke with owner David Gingrass, and he said it was just becoming too much of a hot topic for him to want to keep it on the menu. He says, "It offends enough customers that I had to consider taking it off the menu. Even a few people are too many in my book. There are so many other things in the world I can prepare instead. In the end, you have to pick your battles. I will say I wish our politicians had a better use of our time and tax dollars, however, since there are much bigger issues that affect human lives out there that need attention besides legislating fat ducks." Die-hard foie fans can find a similar PB&J execution at Frisson when the hankering strikes.

For those who want to read more:

• Here is a link to an in-depth piece about foie gras in New York magazine from last June—perhaps you read it? David also told me Danny Meyer in New York is taking on the politicians (after fighting with the animal rights activists for the past year) and is becoming the pro-foie/anti-government foie legislation poster child for those in the restaurant community who want the government out of their kitchens.


• Here's a Chicago Tribune piece about what exactly goes on at Sonoma's producer, Sonoma Foie Gras. See, well, read for yourself.


• And here's an update on the lawsuit filed by Sonoma Foie Gras against Whole Foods on May 5, 2006, for interference with their contract with Grimaud Farms.

I had a chance to speak with the new owner of ~BYBLOS BAR AND GRILL~, which is going into the former VXN space in North Beach. No, it's not the latest boutique of the Italian fashion label sporting some loud prints. Byblos the restaurant is going to have a Mediterranean menu with California touches, and will include authentic Lebanese dishes, for lunch and dinner. The owner, Toufic Mahfouz, stressed that he has extremely high standards for quality, cleanliness, and healthy ingredients. The space should be ready to open in July, with the upstairs mezzanine featuring a fireplace and a mosaic wall, and bright colors on the walls. Byblos has a liquor license, and Mahfouz mentioned there will be entertainment once dinner service is complete, like belly dancing a couple nights a week, and a range of music, from Arabic to house. He's a recording artist himself, so maybe you'll get serenaded over your shwarma plate. 270 Columbus Ave. at Broadway.

Lastly, here's a shout-out to all you writers and artists out there. My good friend (and tablehopper's designer) and her trés-talented pal are launching a new print magazine about one of my favorite subjects, meat. ~MEAT MAGAZINE~ is looking for contributors, from essays to photography to the visual arts. Definitely take a look at their call for proposal on their site—it's a great little missive about meat! They aren't paying anything right now, but they'll send you a salame if your work is accepted. Expect Meat Magazine to be released this Fall. Viva meat! And now, to Fresh Meat!

fresh meat: Nicky's Pizza Rustica

Oh, this town and it's incessant quest for the perfect pizza. I swear, it's a constant debate about who's tossing the best pie, whether it's the divine toppings at Pizzetta 211 trouncing almost everyone (let's hear it for the anchovies, no, the egg, no wait, two glorious eggs!), but then again, Pizzeria Delfina is no slouch (and no one has their cannoli for dessert), and let's not forget there's the perfect crust and sauce-to-mozzarella ratio at A16, and oh man, have you ever had a slice at Arinell hot out of the oven when you're a little drunk? Manna, I tell you. (No, we're not trekking to Larkspur or Oakland for this little discussion—you know exactly who I'm talking about.) And then there's a pizza that comes along that is totally different. Baa baa baa! Why hello, little black sheep!

People don't know what to make of the slices at ~NICKY'S PIZZERIA RUSTICA~. They complain the crust is too thick, the slices are too expensive (so a caramel frappuccino for $3+ is cool, but a handmade crust made with tipo 00 flour imported from Naples with organic and sustainable ingredients on top doesn't merit a $4.50 price tag for a hefty slice of homemade Italian sausage and pepper pizza? Come ON. As Nick says, it's just another example of the Miseducation of Russian Hill.). And then there are those who complain there's no place to sit.

Okay, let's break this down. Let's start with the pizza. Like the name says, it's rustica, which is the oldest style of pizza: a Roman-style crust that is more like a bready focaccia crust than a thin Napoletano crust. When coming up with this pizza, Nick was inspired by the pizza his nonna made. I'd say he had a good childhood. You'll get a hefty square cut into two triangles, and let's all just pause for a moment in this carb-phobic world. [Pause.] That nice slab of crust tasted hella good. And considering it's coming from a gas oven, Nick is doing one heck of a job. The crust had an addictive flavor and texture from the olive oil he uses, with a perfect balance of doughiness yet crispiness, and is topped with a lovely mozzarella that Nick has sourced from an old family producer. He's even trying his hand at making his own mozzarella. Bravo.

My friend and I tried the tre funghi, a mycological melee of portobello, shitake, and porcini mushrooms, with white truffle oil. Take that, Golden Boy! (They're the other thick-crust folks in town, but you can't even compare the two, really.) Personally, the Niman Ranch pancetta and caramelized onion slice rocked me hard, but my friend, who was being naughty, said, "Ya gotta sample Nick's sausage." Let's hear it for some sausage. Anyway. Nick's sausage is homemade, has a nice little kick—it hails from a recipe from the Inn at Little Washington's Patrick O'Connell. It's some mighty tasty sausage. The slice also comes with some nicely roasted peppers. Unimpeachable, that slice.

I even did a follow-up taste test: my very exacting and official Friday night tipsy test, and man, that slice was good enough to fall into bed with. A total pepperoni party. Especially since it was 11pm and it was literally the LAST SLICE. You know you're blessed in moments like that. The last slice. It's right up there with finding money, Doris Day parking, and asking to try on the last pair of shoes in a store window, and they're your size.

Speaking of size, so yes, the space is tiny—but what the heck, it's a pizza joint! There are some window seats available, with a few tables outside. Otherwise, there's a long counter where you can stand (pretend you're European!) over by the pizza oven, and on a typical SF night, that's not such a bad place to be. Toasty. It has cheery butter yellow walls, original black-and-white checked floors, tall windows, vintage-inspired overhead fans, and a spacious pizza display cabinet Nick had custom-made so you can survey your victim in the case before you commit to having it warmed up for you.

What's great is the sense of community in this place. Nick knows a lot of people, and fortunately has enough energy to keep up with all of them. They all say hello, whether they're saluting him from the sidewalk, coming in for a high-five, or trying to evade the eye of the watchful Walgreen's parking lot attendant across the street and surreptitiously park their car in the lot so they can sneak in for a slice. Where else can you meet characters with names like Edwin Heaven? It's enough to make you sit down (or stand, heh) with a glass of one of the nice wines Nick has selected, sink your teeth into a serious slice, and thank your lucky stars you live in San Francisco.

Sidebar: as many of you may, or may not know, I mentioned in a previous issue of tablehopper that Nick is no longer involved with Nick's Crispy Tacos next door. Lawsuit. Issues. Drama. Bottom line: I miss those tacos. So when I start jonesing for a taco "Nick's Way," I have to share a little secret: La Taqueria (2889 Mission St. at 24th St.) in the Mission has a pretty good approximation. Just order your taco "dorado" and you'll get a crispy taco wrapped up in a soft one, with cheese. No, it's not on the menu. Yes, it's ridiculous how much La Taqueria charges for their tacos, and they aren't even name-checking a designer meat on their menu. But I gotta hand it to them, their carnitas really are all that. And don't miss their agua fresca of melon. Buen provecho.

Nicky's Pizzeria Rustica
2109 Polk St.
Cross: Broadway
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-771-4222

Tue-Wed 11am-10pm
Thu-Sat 11am-11pm

Slices $3-$4.75
Salads $3.75-$4.75

the regular: Le Colonial Lounge

Sometimes you just want a spot where you can hang out with a friend and hear each other speak, drink a few potent cocktails, graze on some tasty apps, and not have some pushy people crowding around you at a bar or evil-eyeing you for your seat. I know just the place.

I mentioned in tablehopper last month that ~LE COLONIAL~ was opening a pho bar in their upstairs lounge, and Chef Mike Yakura, inspired by a trip to Vietnam, was introducing some Vietnamese street food items on the modern Vietnamese menu. A pal and I went to check it out on a Tuesday—a very important fact, since this place reportedly gets mobbed on the weekend by 20-somethings with very white teeth, pastel shirts and a penchant for boozing it up.

I was quite content to sink into one of the rattan seating areas in a corner, with lazily rotating fans overhead and mismatched Asian rugs underfoot. There's also a balcony with heat lamps if you want to try snagging an outdoor table. The French Colonial atmosphere of the space has always been pleasing to me—it's a perfect place to get your expat groove on.

Le Colonial offers a variety of tropical cocktails ($8) that all manage to pack a nice woozy wallop by the time you finish your second one. Go nuts. So, the food. Now, full disclosure, I'm a big fan of trolling around Larkin Street and the Avenues for authentic Vietnamese food. Bad lighting, no problem. Raspberry sherbet-colored vinyl chairs, bring them on. $4.50 bowl of lip-smacking pho, excellent. Instead, here in the lounge, it's all flipped: the atmosphere is sultry, the lighting is flattering, and the food is double what you'd pay at most Vietnamese joints in town. But you knew this. You can't compare the two, really.

We started with the chao tom ($9), quenelles of minced prawn bound with egg white and wrapped on sugar cane and then grilled. Served with some rice noodles that had a peppery kick. Scrumptious. Slightly difficult to get the goods off the skewer, but these were my hands-down favorite.

I also enjoyed the banh xao tom ($9), a rice flour and mung bean crepe stuffed with tender prawns and sprouts. You tear bite-size pieces of it off and wrap it in a piece of fresh lettuce leaf, maybe slip some carrot inside, dunk dunk, delicious. The prawns were perfectly cooked, and tasted much better than what you'd get at most dives, I'll hand them that.

The caramel pork tenderloin ($11) was a little too deconstructed for me—seared pork tenderloin arrives in a bowl with two halves of a hard-boiled egg, some jalapeño slices, bell pepper, and on the side, a small mound of rice topped with crispy onion bits (an upgrade from the usual onion bits you get in some of the dive-ier places). The presentation was pretty, but I wanted it to come all mixed up so the flavors could blend together, especially that egg—not the easiest thing to do at the table, or share.

There are also a ton of other menu items, like mouth-melting braised pork ribs with five-spice and a sweet hoisin sauce ($11), or their duck spring rolls ($9), with duck confit inside, and accompanied by a flavorful ginger dipping sauce. There are two other kinds of spring rolls, plus cold noodle salads, coconut-crusted crab cakes… it's a long menu. Some things are not quite street food, but whatever, you're not really in Vietnam, either.

Now, to the pho ($7 small bowl/$9 large). I liked how the menu has a little primer about it, from how to say it (f-úh) to how to order it. And there's a small glass on the table holding individual ordering sheets and tiny golf pencils inside. For some people who have never had pho, this might be a novel way to introduce them to it, but it won't make them converts. The checklist with an array of ingredients to choose from was great, I love the concept, love it, but unfortunately the noodles were a tad underdone, and the broth wasn't hot enough, which is essential. If you don't get a face steaming with the first few spoonfuls, it won't be so good by the time you get to the bottom of the bowl. I will admit, it's really hard to beat having some pho with a bunch of fellow slurpers hunched over our bowls at my Larkin Street dive. And it was a little challenging to really get into it while sitting on a couch. But that chao tom, yum. I'd totally come back for that.

Enough with the lettuce leaves and dipping sauces and sriracha, to dessert! You could go with the trio of beignets ($8), but the real star of the dessert menu isn't even on it. It ends up there's this wicked chocolate soufflé you can request, and I say do it. It's piping-hot, fluffy, smooth, and looks like a cupcake with a topping of whipped cream. (Sounds like a hot chick, huh!) It also comes with a wading pool of crème anglaise that reminded me of condensed milk, tasty. I think I was on my third cocktail by this time as well, so don't quote me on that.

According to an ad I just saw, they have a new line-up of live music Wed-Sat, starting around 6:30pm or so, and wrapping up by 10pm, which is when the DJs kick in on Friday and Saturday and someone releases the Kraken. But if you're looking for a nice little hideaway mid-week, now you know where to go. And if you want to party like it's 1999, now you know that too.

Le Colonial Lounge
20 Cosmo Place
Cross: Jones St.
San Francisco, CA 94109

415-931-3600
website

Tue-Fri 4:30pm-10pm

Apps $7-$12
Dessert $8

the socialite: Millennium Restaurant

This cracked me up. How often do you get to see a baked potato bar? Exactly. ~MILLENNIUM~ is hosting their 25th Annual "Southern Comfort" Dinner, which will have a vegetarian variation of some BBQ, plus baked casseroles, and cola showing up as a significant ingredient. They'll also have mint juleps (or lemonade and iced tea for teetotalers). And some live music to boot. Looks like it's one last opportunity to wear your ironic trucker hat.

Millennium Restaurant
Thursday, May 25

580 Geary St.
at Jones St.
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-345-3900
website

reservations available 5:30pm-9pm
5-course prix-fixe menu

$39.99/person (gratuity & tax not included)

the socialite: Wines on Wine

So I had a chance to check out one of the ~FIFTH FLOOR/LOUNGE ON FIVE~ wine classes with sommelier Emily Wines, and I gotta tell ya, it rocked. There was a group of about ten of us in the lounge, tasting some mighty fine vinos while Ms. Wines poured and talked for an hour or so. Nice people. Good pours. Totally informative.

Fifth Floor just announced a new series of classes starting on June 7—check one out! I attended the Vive la France! class, and it definitely helped to get an overview of all the regions, and to learn about the châteaux of Bordeaux!

Here's more from Fifth Floor:

Wines is expanding her consumer version of her popular wine course, "Wines on Wine," to ten classes this summer. "Wines on Wine" is a casual and educational program designed to teach the art of wine tasting to any level of enthusiast. Participants may attend individual classes or the entire series.

The series begins on Wednesday, June 7, with "The Truth Behind Terroir - Pinot Noir." Other topics include "A Sweet Finale - Dessert Wine" (June 14); "Vino Italiano!" (June 28); "Wine Down Under - Southern Hemisphere" (July 12); "Food and Wine Pairing 101" (July 19); "Sensory Evaluation" (July 26); and "The Joy of Bubbly" (August 23). Additional classes are on August 2, 9, and 16.

Wines on Wine
Wednesdays, 6pm-7pm

Lounge on Five
(located adjacent to the Fifth Floor restaurant in Hotel Palomar)

12 Fourth St.
Cross: Market St.
San Francisco
415-348-1555

classes are $35 each

the starlet: May 23, 2006

Okay, things seem to have ramped up in the star department, and I have my act together this week.

First up, Ringo Starr (!) was seen in the Pork Store Café on Haight—can you imagine being in there for your hangover special and there he is, eating some bacon? Crazy. Wait, he's a vegetarian. So maybe he just had some coffee, black. Anyway. Ringo. Starr. Cool.

A pal saw Robin Williams (who I can't bear, but no matter) at Range over dinner. I hope he wasn't giving his food voices. The poor waitress.

The Black Eyed Peas, who did their super-last-minute-surprise show at Mighty last week, were seen at the Clift Hotel last weekend.

And I heard Vincent Gallo had dinner at Walzwerk while he was in town for his performance at Bimbo's for the Mission Creek Music Festival. So lo-fi.

the chatterbox: May 16, 2006

Okay, you cream puff phreeks: ~BEARD PAPA~ has finally and officially opened. They opened their doors last Friday. It would have probably been an even bigger deal if people could find the damned place since it's on a weird little alley that isn't on any maps yet. I have reposted the address below so you don't get lost wandering SoMa moaning for your cream puffs. And you know what? Believe the hype—those puffs are hella tasty. And they come with a mother lode of custard mixed with cream in them. Delicious custardy cream with real vanilla bean. I was lucky enough to be at a party this weekend where a little angel brought a box of them. Go, add to the hype! Go now! 99 Yerba Buena Lane, between Market and Mission Streets, and 3rd and 4th Streets, 415-978-9972.

And now, calling all fried chicken phreeks: tonight (Tuesday night) is ~MAVERICK'S~monthly fried chicken night (it's every third Tuesday of the month). I personally can't vouch for it, but supposedly people are into it. If they have their own mailing list for it, then you know it's gotta be good. You'll be happy to know Maverick has also made some changes to the interior, including spotlights over the tables so you can admire your plate of food with a little more than candlelight, and even more importantly, they have put up some sound-reducing panels on the ceiling. Hallelujah. (Just don't yell it.)

There is some seriously big stuff happening in the Historic Fillmore Jazz District over the next coming year. Like, we're going to really have a really unique and exciting destination for live music and good food and world-class entertainment, restoring some energy and vibrancy to an area that used to be famous for its music and nightlife. (Rasselas and the Boom Boom Room will finally have some company.) Some of you already know about the ~FILLMORE HERITAGE CENTER~, which broke ground last September, and is being managed by local urban real estate developer Em Johnson Interest, Inc. The $68 million mixed-use space is at the corner of Fillmore and Eddy, and is slated to open in March 2007. It will feature a 6,000-square-foot Jazz Heritage Center that will document the history of jazz in the Fillmore District, and will include a gallery and screening room, and a retail store. There will also be 80 mixed-income condominium-housing units. But the biggest news is in April 2007, it will be the second location of Yoshi's, called ~YOSHI'S SAN FRANCISCO JAZZ CLUB & JAPANESE RESTAURANT~. This location will be a 26,500 square-foot, two-story venue (yeah, massive) with seating for 420 (sweet!). (420 people, silly.) And that's just in the jazz club—the restaurant and lounge will have room for more than 300. Like its East Bay location, Yoshi's will continue to feature the best of local, national, and international jazz artists. I can't think of anything like it in the city, really.

Opening in late spring will also be the ~BLUE MIRROR RESTAURANT & LOUNGE~, a 6,000 square-foot restaurant that takes it's name from one of the many jazz clubs that were legendary in the Fillmore area, especially in the 1950s. Chef/owner David Lawrence and his wife, Monetta White, want to build upon the nostalgia of the good old days of the jazz district, offering a modernized interpretation. The restaurant will seat 75-80 and will include a private dining room, plus there will be a lounge and a bar area seating 25-30 guests. The space is meant balance upscale and casual, blending a neighborhood vibe with a timeless and classic atmosphere with modern touches. The designer is McCartan Design (who did the sleek yet natural interior of the Hotel Vitale and Americano Restaurant) and Zack/de Vito is the architect (bacar, Gordon's House of Fine Eats, Globe, Manresa). The menu is going to be American-Californian with a French-soul influence, so you could find truffle Parmesan fries one night or sweet potato fries the other. Dinner will be served nightly, with a late-night menu that will please the crowds leaving Yoshi's after a show wraps up. Eventually, the Blue Mirror plans on hosting a jazz brunch and lunch. Lawrence has been in the business for 27 years, and was most recently the chef at the Carnelian Room (for seven and a half years), and prior to that was the opening chef at the Essex Supper Club, in addition to stints at 231 Ellsworth in San Mateo, and Cityscape at the Hilton. It will be a pleasure to see him doing his own thing at the Blue Mirror, and putting his French training and skills to work. White, his wife, is a native San Franciscan, and is keen to continue the legacy of jazz in the city; she previously did marketing for Real Restaurants for seven-eight years, and produced corporate events. 1300 Fillmore St. at Eddy St.

Then there's going to be ~FILLMO' BETTA RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE~~, a project from Joseph Manzare (Globe, Zuppa, Tres Agaves), Gary Banks, and Keith Jackson. Banks, a minister, grew up in the Fillmore, and his father was in the restaurant biz in Bayview—now it's his turn, he says. He's known Manzare for over ten years, and they're all excited to be working on this project together. For now it's a raw space, but come March 2007, it will be a boutique restaurant and lounge (1,900 square feet) with a late-night '20s-'30s Chicago jazz-club vibe, courtesy of Zack/de Vito. The restaurant will be serving modern comfort food late into the night, plus brunch and lunch too. Expect a Southern touch with traditional soul dishes on the menu, with a number of smoked meats, including Niman Ranch baby-back pork ribs, house-made Louisiana pork sausage, marinated lamb riblets, plus buttermilk fried chicken, popcorn rock shrimp, deviled eggs, salmon croquettes, and desserts like pecan pie and Key lime pie. (I am getting very hungry as I write this.) Greg Washington, the GM of Globe, is assisting with the launch, and Mark Bright of Michael Mina is the consulting sommelier. 1520 Eddy St. at Fillmore St.

So it looks like the previously shady bar, ~VXN~, on the corner of Broadway and Columbus, is becoming Byblos Bar and Grill. There used to be a BybLos on Lombard serving Lebanese/Mediterranean food—perhaps it's the same owners? I will let you know when I know more…

After 23 years in business, ~SAIGON SAIGON~ on Valencia Street will be closing. Seems like their rent doubled, so they'll be closing their doors at the end of the month. The new owners reportedly have a Mediterranean restaurant. 1132 Valencia St.

Further down Valencia, ~THE OPIUM DEN~ has moved into the former Baku de Thai space at the corner of 15th Street. It will continue to be a Thai restaurant, with free delivery for orders over $15, and a relatively affordable menu. This is the second restaurant from the owners of Bangkok Best on Kearny at Sutter. 400 Valencia St., 415-437-4788.

fresh meat: Myth Café

Anyone who knows me knows I am crazy about sandwiches. As much, if not more, than pizza. (This is what happens when your father owns a deli and pizzeria when you're a kid.) I am determined to have my own panino shop one of these days. But until then, all I can say is God bless Ryan Scott at ~MYTH CAFÉ.~ (I know, I can hear the regulars groaning, "Great, now even more people are going to come and steal my precious tables and make the lines longer." Sorry, it's the nature of the beast that is the tablehopper.) Myth Café is in the former Zero Degrees space, connected to the neighboring Myth restaurant. The Executive Chef is the muy-talented Sean O’Brien, who was previously the Executive Sous Chef at Gary Danko. Scott came up with the menu under O’Brien’s direction. Some back story: Scott cooked under O’Brien in Gary Danko's kitchen for four years, and also worked with Daniel Boulud in NYC. He knows what's up, he knows his ingredients, and he is one of the nicest and most excited chefs I've had the pleasure of meeting in a while. FIRED UP, this guy is. Like a George Foreman Grill.

The space is on a sunny corner, with a few outdoor tables, and some indoor seating at stainless steel tables in a modern café space. Lots of folks just bop in and out for take-out bag lunches, or breakfast treats with their coffee. The sandwiches at this joint are enough to make me wish I worked downtown (well, kind of). But before I dive into the sammies, don't deny yourself the wicked deviled eggs ($3.50). SIX halves arrive (no, your eyes do not deceive you), sporting a creamy piped-in filling, topped with a chunk of meaty bacon, some chives, and a dusting of Hungarian paprika. Damn those deviled eggs, damn them! There are also some delicious house-made truffle potato chips ($3.50), thin and crispy, with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and tangerine gremolata (totally upping the gourmet factor). A veritable pile arrives. Yes, you're in trouble with those fries. Bye, see you later!

There is an array of salads, including a fennel- and sumac-crusted ahi tuna ($8.50) (yes, ahi tuna!—it wouldn't be San Francisco without some ahi tuna somewhere on the menu) resting on a salad of haricots verts, Niçoise olives, crumbled egg, and a bed of cucumber, in a zippy lemon vinaigrette. Very refreshing. Damned good salad. I was slightly less enthused with the Boston Bibb lettuce salad ($6.50)—it had blue cheese and pecans and Asian pears, all lovely things I tend to adore together, but it just didn't quite get its groove on like the other dishes. Needed a peppy dressing. (Peppy, did I just use that word? And zippy? I did. I sound like I'm 65, or a total nerd.) You can even get carrot-ginger soup ($5) with mint cream and crispy sweetbreads. No, this is not your average lunch spot, Dorothy. Or should I say Mary? (That last line is for my fabulous gay readers. Hi boys!)

Okay, okay, to the sandwiches. So, buckle up: Scott makes the sickest BLT ($8) I've had in a while. Thick strips of applewood-smoked bacon, a generous heaping of melty cheddar, with sweet and herby roasted tomatoes (brilliant) layered in plus some crispy romaine between two glorious pieces of grilled levain. The sandwich is huge. And already perfect. But here's where Scott is pure evil—the levain bread is grilled with a swath of bacon grease. I mean, what the hell, if you're already into a BLT, you might as well go the whole hog. OINK.

I was also way into the chili and lemongrass-roasted chicken salad sandwich ($8), which came in the softest Acme roll ever. So fresh, and fluffy. The chicken salad was super savory with a touch of sweet: coriander seed, avocado, red onion, mango… and some pepper jack. Fresh lettuce. Definitely the lighter and slightly nicer member in the family, compared to the evil BLT.

And check this out: on Fridays it's PBJ Fridays, which means a PB&J on cinnamon swirl brioche, with bananas, a granny smith apple, and a glass of milk. For $6.50. You could do a lot worse in this town for $6.50 for lunch. They have six-seven other sandwiches, plus a hearty turkey potpie that comes in its own cast iron skillet, a homemade veggie burger, and quiche too (vegetarians can have it their way).

And then there's dessert. Myth Café has a dedicated pastry chef, Renée Atkins (rather ironic, that last name), who probably who probably kicked butt while at the CCA. She churns out a number of treats, from mini apple pies to muffins to cupcakes to really flavorful sorbets, like crème fraîche, guava, and raspberry. And then there are the cookies: rocky road cookies made with big dollops of homemade marshmallows, and for the East Coasties, there are scrumptious black and whites: part cake, part cookie, with fab icing. She's even made grown-up/gourmet versions of Twinkies (with chiffon cake and vanilla butter cream) and Ho Hos. Wait, she's almost as evil as Ryan Scott. She is as evil as Ryan Scott! This place is seriously luncheon hellfire. It burns, it burns, ow!

Myth Café
490 Pacific Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-677-4289
website

Mon-Fri 8am-4pm

Apps $3.50-$5.50
Salads $4.50-$8.50
Sandwiches $7-$9

the socialite: Slow Club

Checkity-check it: ~SLOW CLUB~ is hosting their first winemaker dinner on Sunday, May 21. They hope to have more events on Sunday evenings this summer, featuring farmers, wineries, and their favorite ingredients, but for now, they'll be welcoming Clayton Fritz, the owner of ~FRITZ WINERY~. Tables will be arranged in groups of six and eight so people can socialize, chef Chris Kronner will talk a bit about the menu, and then there's that wine! There might be some last-minute changes, but for now it's looking like:

Family-style antipasti of Prosciutto di Parma, fava beans, asparagus and shaved Manchego
Fritz Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, 2005

Duck confit salad with baby carrots, pickled ramps and watercress
Fritz Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2004

Roasted Niman Ranch top sirloin with spring onion mashed potatoes and wild mushrooms
Fritz Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2003

Dark chocolate pot de crème
Fritz Late Harvest Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2004

If you are interested in signing up for this event, you can do one of the following:

• email Erin at slowclub dot com your credit card number (M/C or Visa) with the expiration date and number of people in your group.


• email Erin at slowclub dot com that you want to make a reservation and that you have mailed a check to the Slow Club. Your reservation will be confirmed upon receipt of your check.


• email Erin at slowclub dot com that you want to make a reservation and that you would like to pay with a credit card over the phone. Leave her your phone number and a good time to reach you.

If you have paid and would like to cancel, you will receive a full refund if they are able to fill your spot. If they cannot fill your reservation, they will not be able to refund your payment.

Slow Club
2501 Mariposa St.
San Francisco, CA
94110
415-241-9390
website

Fritz Winemakers Dinner
Sunday, May 21
6:30 pm.

$70 per person (including gratuity and sales tax)

the socialite: Steps of Rome Caffe

For those of you who can't afford the tickets to World Cup, at least you can party with the bona-fide soccer crazies at ~STEPS OF ROME CAFFE~, who will be showing the World Cup non-stop, opening early and closing late, and free of charge. The month-long tournament beings on June 9. There will be fun prizes, raffles, a regular menu as well as a prix-fixe menu. And lots of tifosi. Forza Azzurri!

World Cup Soccer
Starting June 9
Steps of Rome Caffe
348 Columbus Ave.

415-397-0435
website

the starlet: May 16, 2006

Okay, this town needs more star power for this section, okay? But for now, I've got a couple obscure ones for you:

Aussie Helen Reddy (of "I Am Woman, Hear Me Roar" fame) had lunch at the Fior d'Italia after her bit on the Ron Owens Show promoting her new memoir, "The Woman I Am."

And this is hilarious: a friend overheard Virginia Madsen (sister to Michael Madsen, of ear-cutting fame in Reservoir Dogs and one of the brothers in Kill Bill) telling one of the waiters at 2223 Restaurant last week, "All the pinot noirs on your wine list are horrible! I want to speak to your sommelier right away!" That's a surefire way to make friends with the sommelier, take note!

the chatterbox: May 9, 2006

So you already know what a fan I am of ~DESTINO~. And now James Schenk is going to start Sunday brunch, because he's smart like that. The whole thing kicks in on Mother's Day, which is Sunday, May 14th (you didn't forget, did you?). They'll have items like a caprese empanada, filled with basil, tomato, and mozzarella cheese, and crepes de dulce de leche, stuffed with berries and crème, plus new cocktails custom-made for brunch (although it would be hard for me to turn down one of their Ramos Fizzes). Brunch is on Sundays, 11:30am-2pm.

~CAMPTON PLACE~ now has a pastry chef to be mighty proud of: Boris Portnoy from Winterland. I've been impressed with his creations since the very beginning at Winterland when I tried his French toast and olive oil ice cream, and look forward to the magic he'll create at Campton Place. Portnoy originally worked with Winterland's chef, Vernon Morales, at Salt in Philadelphia, and then went to Spain to work in a restaurant outside of San Sebastian, Restaurant Mugaritz, under renowned chef Andoni Anduliz. He then returned to the U.S., went to New York to be the opening pastry chef at Cru, with chef Shea Gallante, and then was reunited with Morales here in SF. He was named a Rising Star Pastry Chef by StarChefs.com in 2005.

The Mission continues to crank: on May 22, ~SENSES RESTAURANT~ will open in the former Watercress Restaurant space. The same owners of Watercress (and Bistro Annex), Teo Kridech and his wife Melanie, have partnered up with Bruno Dennis, the bar manager of Plouf for five years. This new neighborhood spot will be serving contemporary cuisine with French influences and seasonal ingredients, with fancy apps like lobster cassoulette or a mascarpone soufflé, and entrées like filet of sole roulade and chicken jambonet (not to be confused with JonBenet), stuffed with truffle and endive puree. I know, rather upscale for the Mission. And for dessert, you can indulge in a trio of soufflé glace or blanc manger lavender, a rather old-school dish I am surprised to see. Color me curious. There will also be a tasting menu. (Can you think of any offered in the Mission? I couldn't.) So just who will be cranking out these creations? The executive chef is 29-year-old Sophiane Benouda, who has trained and worked with the renowned chef Paul Bocuse for three years, and was a chef at the Michelin-rated French restaurant, Chez Alain. Sous chef Laurent Guillaume and pastry chef Nicolas DeLaroque will also be in the kitchen. Yes, some serious Frenchie chops. Décor is courtesy of Dava Guntmiller, who has also designed Limon and Circolo. The space will be chic yet comfortable, and will include palm, coconut, and bamboo wood accents, dark sand-colored cork flooring, and for that Mission flair, work by local artists will be displayed on the walls. 1152 Valencia Street, between 22nd and 23rd Streets. Dinner nightly, Sun-Thu 5pm-10pm, and Fri-Sat 5pm-10:30pm. www.sfsenses.com (eventually), 415-648-6000.

At last, I was able to track down SOME news about the long-dark ~BRUNO'S~: it ends up the folks from Harry's Bar on Fillmore (Rick Howard and George Karas) bought it a year ago, and are renovating the space and bringing it up to code. The vibe will be less retro (I heard the booths had to be taken out), but the loungey vibe will still prevail (the Cork Club remains). They've put in a fireplace, and the VIP room upstairs has been expanded. The focus will be more on the entertainment/live music and the bar, and less on formal dining. They'll offer a casual dining format that is moderately priced, with primarily American-style food with an Italian emphasis, and late-night dining will be offered. They are keen to rebuild the biz, and promised to let me know when an opening date has been set, and said they will then give me more details about the food, and the space. For now, this is all she wrote!

The Chron reported a couple weeks back that ~BISTRO 1689~ will be opening this month in the old Chinese Long Island Restaurant space in Noe Valley. The former chef of Bruno's, Chris Pastena, has actually been consulting on the recipes and the menu, but isn't the confirmed chef. Expect tasty French bistro options, like mussels with tarragon white wine, and some higher-end items, like foie gras pâté, a caviar plate, and filet with béarnaise. Apps will come in around $7-10, and entrées will hover around $18-20 (with a little more for the fancier items). The intimate space (45 seats) features a wine bar (heavy on the French) and will be open nightly for dinner. 1689 Church St.

I had a free hour a couple weeks back while I was downtown and decided to enjoy the sun at the new ~SAMOVAR TEA LOUNGE~ at Yerba Buena Gardens. I have to say, it's a rather unique view in the city—I loved sitting up that extra story (where the fountains are), just under the blooming wisteria. Great spot to meet up with a friend as the coming months warm up. A relaxing city escape for sure. Check it out.

Here's an update on a big project that's been brewing: opening May 17, in the old Max's Diner space on Third will be the elegant and enchanting ~BONG SU RESTAURANT & LOUNGE~. It will serve contemporary Vietnamese cuisine (bong su is Vietnamese for plumeria flower) and the cocktails are going to be infused and enhanced with Asian exotica ingredients. The space is going to be seriously gorg; muy chic and sleek, courtesy of Eric Engstrom of the Engstrom Group. There will be a special booth in the back with a private curtain for the high rollers (it runs at a $1,000 minimum). Spiffy designer Calvin Tran designed the waitstaff's uniforms. You might recognize the owners, Anne Le and Tammy Huyhn, from Tamarine in Palo Alto. Expect an emphasis on wine, with all kinds of unique pairing possibilities offered. Here's my favorite detail: in the men's room, Vietnamese pick-up lines will be playing. "Hey G.I., love you long time!?" (Sorry, that is so wrong. Sometimes I can't help myself.) Sign up on their mailing list (link is above) to keep posted on all their upcoming events and news. 311 3rd St. at Folsom Street, San Francisco, 415-536-5800.

A tablehopper reader gave me the heads up that the owners of El Metate, Francisco Hernandez and David Carreno, will be expanding to a closed liquor store next door and opening a sandwich shop and market in the next month or so. It will be called ~LA TIENDITA EL METATE~ and you'll be able to pick up tasty tortas, fresh produce, and some Mexican products. Many vegetarians adore El Metate's veggie burritos and tacos that feature veggies (carrot, broccoli, zucchini) sautéed to order, but their fish tacos are the biggest seller. El Metate is at 2406 Bryant St. at 22nd St., 415-641-7209.

fresh meat: Terzo

I know, can you believe it? Another small plates restaurant. But I have to say, ~TERZO~ is really going to make some people happy. If you make enough moolah to afford the necessary 3-4 small plates per person, then you're really going to dig it. Even if you don't have enough cash for a full spread, you can still sit at the bar, order a plate or two of tasties over a glass of wine, and not feel like a broke-ass outsider watching everyone throw back flutes of Billecart-Salmon Rose while you drink tap water.

The name means third, and refers to the concept of the "third place"—it's not home, and it's not work: it's that place where you gather with friends and neighbors. (No, not a dive bar at 11am on a Wednesday.) I'd say the zinc bar area and the large communal table certainly promote that idea. And it's open pretty darned late for this town that likes to shut down at 10pm. I also think a lot of guys will be pleased with the female-to-male ratio. The night I went it was a chick-fest in there. The communal table was like a convention of thoroughbreds in True Religions.

When you first arrive, you'll see some tables out front, which are going to be coveted seats in the summer. Which will be October, love our city. Inside, local architect Cass Calder Smith has totally transformed the former Pane e Vino space: it's post-modern rustic hip, with tables that feature a groove on each side where the small tablecloth edges (or a large cloth napkin) can tuck in—totally an innovative touch. High-backed deep brown banquettes line the back wall, with trios of lights above (look for the threes in there—like the windows). The lighting is flattering, and the space has a nice smell of new furnishings and a fireplace. Downtempo-samba-electronica is on the soundsystem, and the crowd supplies the rest of the din. Some slightly tipsy folks will probably walk into themselves in the large mirror near the bar—don't let it happen to you.

Executive chef Mark Gordon's Cal-Med-Ital menu features about 16 small plates, with descriptions that are rarely more than five words, so you'll be seeing some ingredients you might not recognize. Like tesa. Or charmoula. Just ask—it's important for your education. The menu is a fun globetrot through the Mediterranean, with a few touches of Morocco here and Greece there. Overall, the food isn't necessarily the prettiest to look at, but in the end, it's about what's on the fork. It's like a girl "with a good personality."

Some favorites: oh jeez, the boudin blanc ($12) was the picture of sensuous and creamy and succulent. Spectacular, really. It's what happens when you sauté onions in butter, and then add some chicken, pork, bread, cream, coriander, nutmeg and pork fat and bind it all up like a sausage that has the delicacy of a quenelle. Ends up the chef's wife, Lori Podraza, makes it. Mad props. Also loved the hot steamed clams ($11), which were perfectly cooked (i.e. not little pieces of chewed gum stuck in a shell) with a nice smokiness of pimentón in a broth that begs for bread dunking long after the grilled toasts are done. Hey, wait a minute, where is the bread? I dunno. You'll have to ask your server.

Vegetarians will be fired up on the number of options, like the meaty roasted oyster mushrooms ($9) inspired by Sicily, with garlic, parsely, and olive oil. The ricotta and green garlic soufflé ($9) had a pleasing fluffy texture, but I couldn't really detect the green garlic. The flavors of the fennel a la Grecque ($8) were right up my alley: a hearty portion of soft fennel that had been slowly cooked for an hour or so, served with green and black olives and a soft-boiled egg, and a touch too much olive oil, delicious.

There's also the Sao Jorge ($8)—(in case you were wondering, it's a slightly tangy cow's milk cheese) thinly sliced and served with celery and Medjool dates. It's tasty, but you really have to get all three items together in a fandango on your fork for the flavor combo to really sing. Folks are reportedly loving the hummus ($7) with house made pita—I personally can't vouch for it since I didn't order it, but someone said there's a party somewhere.

Okay, back to our regularly scheduled meat programming. Roasted marrowbones ($10). Bold thing to put on a Marina/Union Street menu. They come with a crostini tucked inside the top of the bone and a little bit of seasoned salt on the side. I'm normally into 'em (I love the version that was/is at La Suite) but these were a touch oily and seeped out on the plate. I wasn't quite thrilled. My dining partner loved them. I just can't imagine the neighborhood fillies getting all crazy for them, marrow spoons in hand, fighting over the last fatty scoop.

Now, the beautifully pink slices of roasted Niman Ranch beef ($13) draped on perfectly textured rosemary potatoes was worth the price tag—but the petite piece of halibut (also $13) didn't quite charm me. It was served on a bed of garbanzos that were under-seasoned and undercooked, and a romesco that was a touch too powerful for the fish. I was told the halibut is actually supposed to be served with favas once they're in season, so I'd give the fish another chance.

Don't be confused by the gnocchi alla romana ($10)—instead of gnocchi, what arrives is one big gnoccho (that would be singular) in an earthenware dish. It's like a fluffy polenta soufflé/cake, rich with parmesan cheese and milk and egg and butter resting in a hearty beef ragu with a tease of cinnamon. It was so delicious with the Beaujolais Fleurie, Trenel Fils "Clos des Moriers" 2004. Another slightly funky but tasty dish is the chicken spiedini ($10)—pieces of chicken that are deceivingly juicy arrive on two skewers with chunks of grilled bread. The charred bread and skewer action was initially a little odd to me, but the flavors totally won me over.

The wine list features some winners—not cheap, mind you. But a lot wines you'll want to dig into. I loved the Burgundy we ordered—the Saint Aubin, En Remilly, Chateau de Puligny, 2003. And for $75, that puppy delivered. I also tasted the Pinotage from Fort Ross, Sonoma Coast, 2002—it was peppery and powerful. $15 a glass, that one. Actually, a number are available by the glass (many at $10 and above) but like I said, this is not the best place for those trying to adhere to a budget, but fun for those who don't have to look too hard at what follows the dollar symbol.

Desserts are all $7.50, and range from a delightfully dense gateau Victoire (where was the raspberry? I think it was served with cherries instead, but I was getting a little tipsy by this point) with a nice dollop of crème chantilly. And I hate to say this, it sounds sooooo clichéd, but the tiramisu was totally delicious. I normally won't even go near the stuff, I have outlawed it years ago, oh, the horrible things so many restaurants have done to this dessert. But this version was fluffy and boozy and silky. Complimenti. Cheesehounds, attack the Brillat Savarin (it's from the Cheeseworks in Berkeley) and has a mighty fine rind. For the less decadent, the grapefruit sorbet and lime sorbet are nicely tangy. Now excuse me while I go walk up the damned hill and try to burn off that boudin blanc on my way back to the Western Addition.

* Update since my review: *
I have learned that portion sizes have been upped, some heartier additions are on the menu, and they have added a few more affordable dishes too. I’ve also heard the food is just fantastic!

Terzo
3011 Steiner St.
San Francisco, CA 94123
Cross: Union St.

415-441-3200
website

Mon–Fri 5:30pm–11pm
Sat 5:30pm–midnight
Sun 5:30pm–11pm

Small plates $7-$13
Desserts $7.50

the socialite: Charles Chocolates

Yo, chocoholics. Every Saturday from 10am-7pm you can taste some chocolates from ~CHARLES CHOCOLATES~, an artisan chocolatier who has opened up a temporary shop in Laurel Heights until May 27. They even have a PMS chocolates selection. All made with premium ingredients and by hand. They're as cute as they are delicious.

Charles Chocolates
3527 California Street. at Locust

website

Open daily 10am-7pm

the socialite: Fog City News

And then did you know about the chocolate tastings at ~FOG CITY NEWS~? They'll be hosting some in-store visits by Bay Area chocolatiers Richard Donnelly of Donnelly Chocolates of Santa Cruz, Michael Mischer of Michael Mischer Chocolates of Oakland (Michael will be sampling his newest item chocolate-covered jalapeño potato chips!), and Lloyd Martin of Chocolate Visions in Scotts Valley (the Chocolate Visions flavors include the Omega which combines Santa Cruz olive oil, bittersweet chocolate and fleur de sel from Big Sur and the Maya which features unrefined Mexican sugar, cream, butter and dark rum—rhymes with yum). The chocolatiers will talk about the art of chocolate, answer questions, and offer samples of their creations. Their custom truffle collections specially created for Fog City News will be available for pre-order.

Richard Donnelly, Thursday May 4th, 12 noon–2pm
Donnelly Chocolates of Santa Cruz

Michael Mischer, Friday, May 5th, 12 noon–2pm
Michael Mischer Chocolates of Oakland

Lloyd Martin, Wednesday, May 10th, 12 noon–2pm
Chocolate Visions of Santa Cruz

Fog City News
455 Market St. (between First and Fremont)

415-543-7400
website

Mon–Fri 8am-6pm
Open first Saturdays 11am–5pm

the socialite: Harry Denton's Starlight Room

Since I'm no longer throwing my oh-so-wrong Sunday brunch party, +Rehab+ with my pal Ryan, it's high time we see a new option for Sunday shenanigans. Ends up Harry Denton and Donna Sachet (the former "Miss Gay San Francisco" and "Empress of the City") are starting a weekly drag performance brunch at Harry Denton's Starlight Room called ~SUNDAY'S A DRAG~. So you can have some drag queen throw you some shade when you eat your eggs and steal your Bloody Mary when you're not looking. The drag mayhem, which means boas and wigs and disorderly behavior, begins on Sunday, May 21.

A salute to old-fashioned variety shows, Denton and Sachet are hoping their drag show brunch will revive the spirit of San Francisco's long-running and legendary Finocchio's, a nightclub known for its nightly drag shows. There will be a buffet and two seatings for the 45-minute performances, at 11am and then 2pm. The first seating at 11am will include a made-to-order omelet station and brioche French toast a la Denton while the second seating at 2pm features roasted prime rib carved to order and The Starlight Room Caesar salad. Each buffet will feature cedar-plank smoked fish, house-baked breads and fresh pastries, plus fresh juices, bagels, and seasonal fresh fruit.

Harry Denton's Starlight Room
Sir Francis Drake Hotel
450 Powell St.
21st floor

Reservations:
415-395-8595

Seatings are 11am-1pm and 2pm-4pm

$30 buffet-style brunch (excludes beverages)

the starlet: May 9, 2006

Looks like Miss Husky Voice, aka Kathy Griffin, was at Asia de Cuba last week. And the aptly named Martin Short was also seen there. Not at the same time, however. That would be just waaaaaaaay too much star comedian power for SF to handle. Har.

poolside report: May 2, 2006

Okay, this is where we get real. You'd think I was perched at the bar at NOPA or dining at Coí tonight, but truth be told, your faithful tablehopper is actually in Palm Springs right now. On vacation. For a week. (And no, I’m not at a fat farm, although that wouldn't be such a bad thing.)

I had the best of intentions to write up a poolside installment for you, but instead of chatting to chefs or publicists or my oh-so secret sources, I've been rather engaged with this bottle of champagne I seem to permanently have at my side, and flirting with the pool boy.

So until next week, ta ta!
~Marcia