letter from the tablehopper: April 24, 2007

Well shoot, somewhere in my tablehopping around town last week I picked up a bug and got sick. Aw heck. Since I totally popped a flat, I flipped my hazards on and stayed home this weekend. Pffft. Chinese hot and sour soup in full effecty wecty, with a chaser of Zicam.

I wanted to give you a head’s up that I leave for Palm Springs/Coachella this Thursday and am not back until late Tuesday, so next week’s ’hopper is going to be a different animal, if it exists at all! Just “managing expectations,” as they say. This week’s edition should have plenty for you to chew on.

Ciao for now, and achooooo!

~ Marcia

the chatterbox: April 24, 2007

Okay, I have been too excited about this project for a couple months now, and I am finally able to talk about it. Excuse me while I unload a flurry of pixels about it! Joining the ranks of new wine bars around town will be a completely fresh concept for a wine bar and restaurant: ~SOUTH~ a modern food and wine bar with some serious and bona fide Aussie roots. The spiffy 50–60-seat space is slated to open in SoMa by August at 4th and Townsend, and will reflect the relaxed and fun Aussie lifestyle: think quality food and wine to share with friends in a sociable atmosphere—I am here to testify, it’s all I saw in Melbourne and Sydney! The chef/partner is Luke Mangan, a total superstar chef who is behind some honcho Sydney restaurants, such as the highly acclaimed Glass in the Hilton Sydney, Bistro Lulu, and Salt, and is opening another Salt in Tokyo. He also consults for Virgin—Richard Branson was impressed with his cooking and even had him cook on his private island, Necker Island. Mangan is crafting a contemporary and wine-friendly menu that will highlight Aussie and New Zealand gourmet products, like grass-fed sirloin, NZ lamb, and he is sourcing Antipodean seafood like barramundi, oysters, and Tasmanian ocean trout, while one of the desserts will include pavlova (natch). Working with Mangan will be Jennie Lorenzo, who was an executive sous at ame restaurant, and also worked at Fifth Floor with Laurent Gras, La Folie, and Blackbird in Chicago. The South wine list will emphasize boutique and family-owned wines from Australia and New Zealand, along with a sprinkling of wines from South Africa, and a few surprises too. South will be open for lunch (Mon–Fri 11am–3pm) and dinner (Sun–Thu 5pm–11pm, Fri–Sat until midnight) and brunch will launch soon thereafter. The stylish space will include light cork tile for the flooring, jarrah (an Australian wood) for the tables and bar, a communal table, an 18-seat bar with red and white tiles inspired from Maori carvings, and artwork from modern Aussie artists.

Mangan’s partners in the venture are Anna Weinberg, a Kiwi who opened Stella in New York and has worked front of house at Town Hall Restaurant as the special events manager and maitre d’, and opened ame restaurant as the dining room manager; and Liz O’Connell, an Aussie whose background includes upper management roles at Foster’s Wine Estates Americas, and the Americas’ headquarters of Southcorp Wines, Australia’s largest premium wine company. Both women’s families have wine backgrounds: Weinberg’s family are winegrowers for Villa Maria in the Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, and O’Connell’s family owns Mandalay Road, a boutique West Australian grower and maker of wine. Can’t wait to stick my fork in some grilled barramundi and have my glass full of some lovely Aussie vino—this project is gonna rock.

As someone who has lamented the City’s overall absence of non-taqueria places to go for authentic Mexican food (we should have tons of places!), I was pretty stoked to hear about the ~MEXICO DF~ project that will hopefully be open by the end of May in SoMa. Felipe Sandoval, owner of Maya, partnered up with Victor Hugo Juarez, who owns some taquerias (both are originally from Mexico City)—they brought on David Rosales as executive chef. He was formerly at Fonda in Albany, and most recently in Oregon. The concept is to serve Mexico City-style dishes with an organic focus, including bites like some house-made chicharron; ceviches and crudos; a selection of botanas (small plates that are traditionally served during the day) like guacamole with shrimp and bacon, queso fundido, sopes, and tamales; and four or five entrées like cabrito (roasted goat with nopal salad), and suckling pig carnitas sold by weight (I’ll take two pounds, thanks). Dessert may include some unique dishes, like goat's milk caramel flan and Chiapas chocolate cake with sweet corn ice cream, yum.

Since there is a full liquor license, in the evening the tables will become lowered (like the ones at Levende) and the space will transform into more of a lounge—plus a reduced menu will be served from 10pm until close. The space is the former LongLife Noodle Co., just above Shanghai 1930, and will have some big city ambiance, including banquettes, dark floors, a redwood communal table with room for 16–18, a DJ station, and a glam crystal chandelier (plus an innovative art program they asked me to keep as a surprise). There will be room for 45–50, and lunch and dinner will be served, with brunch down the line. There are plans of setting up a to-go program from 11:30am–2pm, with trios of traditional tacos and other dishes. Open Mon–Fri for lunch, and dinner nightly. 139 Steuart St. at Howard, 415-808-1048.

Some say there are locations that are cursed, but I say perhaps the right business has never been in there? What was formerly a Carl’s Jr., then the club VXN, and then the short-lived Byblos Bar and Grill in the historic corner building at Columbus and Broadway is now going to become ~CAMPO DEI FIORI~ by Memorial Day or so. The project comes from Enzo Pellico, who opened Steps of Rome and owned it (and the trattoria) for 13 years before selling to Scott Holley. In fact, Pellico grew up at the Campo dei Fiori in Rome, so it’s the second time he’s bringing a little Roma to SF. The past five years Pellico has been traveling all over, and found some inspiration in Italy for this new venture. He envisions Campo dei Fiori as a place for people to come by, catch up, laugh and joke (“ridere e scherzare,” as he told me), and eat some authentic and regional Italian enoteca-style dishes, like small plates of arancini (rice balls), fritto misto, and croquettes, plus pasta, salads, and panini. He has a cook from Rome who will be whipping things up in the kitchen. Campo will serve beer and wine, and will be open continuously from 8am–2am. 270 Columbus Ave. at Broadway.

Just around the corner, things are trucking along for ~ENRICO’S~, which is aiming for a June opening, permits pending. Reza Esmaili, who is known by many from Pesce and lives 127 steps from the entrance (not sure if he has OCD, ha ha), has been brought on as an opening consultant GM. He is overseeing staffing and the bar program, and also crafting a classic cocktail list. A few more details since my last update: the outdoor area is getting pretty swankified, with banquettes, ottomans, and a comfy vibe, and it ends up there were heated concrete floors inside that were in place but not working, and are now fully functional. There is also going to be an elevated stage for the piano, and live music seven nights a week. The American bistro menu is taking shape, and pizzas from the wood-burning oven are on the list. Enrico’s sadly had to close in its 49th year of business, but everyone is quite excited to see this landmark come back to life all shiny, renovated, refinished, and restored. Hubbah.

A while back I mentioned ~RITUAL COFFEE ROASTERS~ was opening a second café in the new location of Flora Grubb Gardens in Bayview. It's now open as of last Friday! Take a peek at the pics; the whole setup is pretty sweet—flowers and succulents and Gibraltars! It’s a great excuse to try the new MUNI T-line and check out some lovely plants. The grand opening is May 12, and all are invited for a toast from 1pm–2pm that day. All weekend long there will be food, drinks, music, and Cyclecide’s awesome pedal-powered rides, too. 1634 Jerrold Ave. at Third, 415-626-7256.

Now open on one of the grittier blocks in the City is ~SPLIT PEA SEDUCTION~, a petite take-out spot for tasty and healthy bites made with quality ingredients and a slow food frame of mind. The project comes from Sarah Ellison-Pinkin and Christian Noto, who are behind Jersey Tomatoes, the catering outfit they are running in the back of the Split Pea space. Breakfast includes homemade muffins, scones, and open-faced breakfast crostatas, while lunch brings gourmet souphttp://www2.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifs, salads (roasted chicken, dandelion greens, Asiago, and red wine vinaigrette, anyone?), and savory crostatas made with ingredients like cauliflower, carrot and cheddar; plus some combo lunches are offered, like soup and salad. They also serve Mr. Espresso drip coffee, and homemade cookies, cupcakes, and shortbreads for dessert. I noticed a bunch of homemade jams, like quince and pear. There is a small counter where you can stand and eat, and if you are looking to cater an office breakfast or lunch, they have a variety of options. Check out the rotating daily menu here (it's a pdf). Open Mon–Fri 7am–4pm, Sat 8am–3pm, closed Sun. 138 6th St. at Minna, 415-551-2223.

It’s official: the ~CANVAS GALLERY’S~ last day is April 29, when they will be going out with a bang and hosting a big party. For more on the new project going in, you can check the older tablehopper article

~TWO~ is launching their cool TWO-Go box-lunch program, beginning this Wednesday, April 25. You can order lunch “TWO-Go” on their website and pick it up in the drive-through courtyard 30 minutes later! Choose a freshly made sandwich on one of their house-made breads, a seasonal salad, and a sweet bite for dessert. A selection of interesting sodas and soft drinks are also available. The offerings will change from time to time depending on what’s in season, but the initial line-up includes rare roasted beef sirloin on crusty baguette with celery root tapenade and arugula, or grilled chicken salad on a potato roll with house-smoked bacon and avocado, or spicy salmon salad on green onion focaccia with sweet pea and mint puree. (I would be thrilled with one of each, thanks.) Box lunches are $12 each, plus beverage and sales tax. For more info, call 415-777-9779. 22 Hawthorne St. at Howard.

And now it’s time for a ~PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT~, courtesy of a tablehopper reader who unfortunately got her purse snatched off the back of her chair at Mamacita in the Marina a few weeks ago. She recounts, “A shady couple sat down at the table behind us, demonstrated totally questionable behavior (they asked the server where they could smoke in the restaurant!), ordered take-out, and left before it arrived. When I got up to leave, my purse was gone.” It seems a similar incident has happened at other locations in the Marina (including A16), and another purse snatching happened when I was dining at Pescheria about a month ago.

I was also just forwarded this email from someone over at Chaya: “Well, it appears that the purse snatcher is back in operation. She went into One Market last Saturday evening, didn't get anything, but did come to Chaya and got a purse from one of our guests. One of our managers led her into the dining room after the woman gave the name of a party she was looking for. We think she will stand at the front desk and listen for names of several parties, then ask if "such and such" has been seated and will be shown to the table. She is an African American woman, 5' 9" or 10", heavy set, braided hair, pleasant smile and nicely dressed. She goes for bags that are hung on the back of chairs and will even pretend to drop something on the floor, reach down, grab what she dropped and snatch the purse that may be resting on the floor as well.”

She seems to be going all over town, so ladies, keep your purse close by, and gents, watch your shoulderbags/murses/briefcases—the “loop it over the chair” maneuver isn’t proving to be the safest. Restaurant folks: please watch out for her and make sure your guests keep their bags attended to.

Did you guys catch ~IRON CHEF~ Sunday night, with Cosentino vs. Batali? It was so awesome watching Chris Cosentino of Incanto and his crew, Ravi Kapur of Boulevard and Jonnatan Leiva of Jack Falstaff, rock it so hard. I thought I was gonna have heart failure watching it—total stress. Bummer I was home sick and missed the viewing party/ruckus. Batali prevailed, but way to go, guys, for making it that far and doing such a killer job! And that close! Two points, criminy! And hey, nice presentation with the squab talon, caw!

More congrats to ~NATE APPLEMAN~ of A16 and his wife, Clarisse, who had their baby boy, Oliver, at 1:25am this Monday morning. Auguroni!!!

Let’s continue the congrats-fest to swell Tim Stookey of the Presidio Social Club who won the mixing competition at Le Colonial Restaurant on April 9. He will be representing Northern California in the ~UNITED STATES BARTENDERS' GUILD NATIONAL COMPETITION~ in a couple weeks in Chicago. Ten bartenders competed, creating drinks using either Midori melon liqueur or Zen, a tea liqueur. Judging was performed by notable mixologist and USBG member Marco Dionysios, chef Loretta Keller of Coco 500, Steven Oliver of Le Colonial, and Kim Beto, key accounts manager for Southern Wine and Spirits. MC and technical judging were done by David Nepove of the USBG. Participating bartenders were Jodi Brust, Victoria Moran/Monaghan's, Jon Santer/Bourbon & Branch, H. of Elixir, Ronaldo Colli/Lulu, Jackie Patterson/Le Colonial/Elixir, Zole Andahazy/Bernardus Lodge, Shane McKnight/Globe, Jonny Raglin/Absinthe, and Tim Stookey/Presido Social Club. 2nd and 3rd place went to Shane McKnight and Zole Andahazy, while Ronaldo Colli won the award for top technical performance. So what was Stookey’s winning drink?

The Manuel Especial:
1 ½ oz Skyy Citrus
1 ½ oz Pink Grapefruit Juice
3/8 oz Aperol
3/8 oz Zen Green Tea Liqueur
1 dash Regan’s Orange Bitters

And lastly, please don’t forget this Thursday is ~DINING OUT FOR LIFE~. Please look at the event details here and consider eating at one of these restaurants for lunch and/or dinner that day!

fresh meat: Salt House

Is it fair to write a review when you have a head cold? This one might not be the sassiest. At least I’m not eating at the restaurant with a head cold, but even so, I have a feeling the punchy flavors of the food at ~SALT HOUSE~ would still prevail. I’ve eaten at Salt House three times: once during the opening at the end of October, once for lunch, and again for dinner, and each time the place has featured an explosion of bodies. Borderline carnage. There they are, guys with ties and hot chicks and stylish couples and hipsters, all packed at the bar like it’s practically trench warfare, clustered around the communal table, bumping the back of their chair into yours while you’re eating. Hey, it’s tough to be popular (I’m talking about the restaurant, not me, silly).

It’s been interesting to watch the restaurant evolve, and I think the seasonal focus and rotating dishes mean the menu will be constantly in a state of flux, some winners and some losers both getting their fair share of rotation. The food is masculine and rather swashbuckler in style, with gutsy flavors and some daring combos, and is pretty meat-heavy. But the food also has some elegant plating when it’s called for, and many of the preparations show some underlying sophisticated techniques.

Some call the style gastropub, the restaurant calls it “contemporary tavern” fare—it’s food that’s built for a foggy or soggy San Francisco night, or after a rough day of work and you just want something savory and satisfying. Not the kind of food if you are trying to eat light or avoid meat—go hit Café Gratitude instead, and hey, you very well may have the last laugh when all is said and done.

A natural place to start are some fresh oysters listed on the tall blackboard, but I also have to throw a vote in for the baked oysters ($13), a sextet of Kumamotos laden with bacon, leek puree, and spinach. If you’re starving, nibble on the wicked mixed nuts ($6) with truffle honey and sea salt—I wish I could buy these at the store, my waistline says thanks God I can’t.

The sheer novelty of ordering the indulgent poutine ($10) should happen at least once, but attention French Canadians: do not be disappointed when your fresh cheese curds are amiss, and you find some inauthentic cheese in its place, like cheddar or Fontina. It’s still delicious, and worth the extra sit-ups tomorrow. The pork belly’s ($12) texture weirdly reminded me of brisket, more dry than custardy—it did sport some intense porky flavor, which melded like a champ with the runny poached egg and the chunky Parmesan tuile.

The kitchen has a deft hand with charcuterie. If the boudin blanc is on the menu, order it; a downright dreamy and luxurious sausage—I’ve had it with braised red cabbage, and house-made sauerkraut. I also enjoyed the Merguez ($11), which was juicy and haunting. (Hey, that’s what my notes said.) It was served with some chickpeas and carrots that needed more cooking, but I loved the deep savory tang of the chermoula; it was one of my favorite dishes.

Lighter eaters can pick at the bright ricotta salad ($11) with chicory, Asian pears, and toasty hazelnuts, or the tower of Dungeness crab ($15) and perhaps let their non-fat phobic friend eat the fried baby artichokes on the side. Although I am not quite sold on Niçoise olive and crab as a winning combination—the flavors were a little challenging for me. Others seem to dig it. Discuss.

Mains include more hefties, like a deconstructed cassoulet ($24) with flavorful gigandes, garlic sausage, and duck confit, which also turns up in the Muscovy duck leg confit ($22). The wild striped bass ($26) didn’t really thrill me—the puree of spinach reminded me of baby food, and I wasn’t in a high chair. Oh, and vegetarians, don’t freak out: you can ask for the vegetarian dish that isn’t listed on the menu.

At lunch our table feasted on the crispy shrimp ($13) (read: fried) with a kicky (read: downright spicy) dressing over just-blanched green beans (read: a touch undercooked) and topped with thin ribbons of pink Serrano ham (read: delicious). I couldn’t resist the pork Cubano ($15) that was pretty good but not magic, so my quest for a swoon-worthy Cubano continues. Donde eres?? (Sidebar: the one I just munched at Falletti’s on Broderick was pretty tasty, but not very authentic, although they do use a sandwich grill press.) My dining companion tucked into the juicy house-ground burger ($15) with the punishable-by-death onion rings that were more like onion strings: tiny, crispy, and almost like Zuni frites, but onions. You will eat them all.

For dessert, I was totally lip-locked with the lemon pudding cake (all desserts $8) with a swirl of browned vanilla marshmallow on top. Meanwhile, the warm rhubarb gratin with crunchy oats and lavender cream made me feel like I was a hippie in Big Sur, eating dessert on an est retreat. (Not very fitting for the urban vibe.) I also got bored with the maple walnut tart after a few bites.

Salt House just shimmers during the day, light streaming in through the tall windows, and glows at night. The welcoming space housed a printing press in the 1930s and has a long layout, truly a relative to Town Hall, its big sister. The look is the essence of industrial chic: brick walls (some painted white in areas), a high beamed ceiling, well-used wood floors, and a dramatic Don Quixote mural whose colors are echoed in the moody red and black bathroom. (The women’s bathroom also has a one-way window that looks into Harlot, the new club next door: voyeur-iffic.)

Details I liked: the milk jug water carafes embossed with a punky Salt House logo, the pain epi from Acme that is served wrapped up in brown paper (all the better to dunk into the poutine short rib gravy), the inspired light fixtures made from what looks like postcard racks, the mismatched flatware and seating (ranging from parlor chairs to bistro seats), the friendly staff’s white shirts and striped aprons, the random antique-y touches like the rustic ladder leaning against the wall, the small host stand table, and the stuffed pheasant perched in the front. I also noted Beck playing, which struck me as apropos.

I recommend requesting a seat in the back of the restaurant; not only is the bar hubbub farther away, but you can watch the busy open kitchen bang it out—most of the staff sport headbands and handkerchiefs, like a band of brigands. You really can appreciate how much hard work goes into the feeding of the 75 folks seated in the restaurant—that kitchen hustles. Hard. So if your dishes arrive a little late, you may be a touch more understanding. And if you like your sausage or your supper, it’s easy to salute the line as you walk by.


Salt House
545 Mission St.
Cross: 1st St.
San Francisco, CA 94105

415-543-8900
website

Mon–Thu 11:30am–11pm
Fri 11:30am–midnight
Sat 5:30pm–midnight
Sun 4pm–9pm

Apps $8–$17
Entrées $22–$28
Desserts $8

the wino: Russell Balch on Italian Wines

Russell Balch: “I started my career in the wine industry as a distributor merchandiser in chain retail to get my foot in the door. Eleven years later, I now work for a national supplier/producer here in the Bay Area representing some of the world’s finest domestic and imported wines. I have always had a passion for great food and drink but also for travel as well. You truly can experience a culture without having to leave the dining table (or barstool). I find the most pleasure in simple, well-made offerings using the best local ingredients. This, with a great glass of wine and good company always put a big smile on my face.”

Russell Balch on Italian Wines

Italy may be unified under one flag representing “La Repubblica Italiana,” but the city-state is alive and well when it comes to regional differences in wine and food. Our first encounter with Italian wine may very well have been the flask with the wicker basket fit for a candleholder. This notion has quickly given way in the U.S. to a revolution in regional Italian fare, with accompanying wine lists specifically tailored to the cuisine. The rise of regional wine and food has seen a flourish of new, distinctive Italian restaurants in the Bay Area. In San Francisco, you will find A16 with an eye toward Southern Italy and Perbacco with feet planted firmly in the North. Take the time to cross the Bay over to Oliveto in Oakland and experience their not-to-be-missed seasonal extravaganzas of heirloom tomatoes, white truffles, and my favorite, whole-hog dinners. But this is a wine article, right?? Grab a glass of Prosecco and listen up.

Wine is food in Italy. I’ve heard it mentioned that although vino di tavola, or table wine, may be a designation by law in Italy for low-end cheap wine, in reality ALL wine in Italy is “table wine.” Because that is where it ultimately ends up, at the table with the meal! What these wines bring to bear are the distinctions of hundreds, if not thousands of years of different cultures inhabiting the great peninsula at any point in time. I’m not sure if it is serendipity that the regional cuisines seem to go so well with the locally made wines, but they do. It may just be that Italian wines go well with all food, and it does!

Go south and you will find really interesting wines made from grapes such as Aglianico from Campania and Puglia and Nero d’Avola from Sicily. The name Aglianico is a derivative of “Hellenic,” or Greek, where it is thought the grape originated and whose cultural legacy in the South is evident today. These wines are dense and inky with that Southern Italian “soil” creeping in on the finish. Fuhgettabout Cabernet Sauvignon and try these with a nice steak!

While known for their reds, Italy will surprise you with their superb white wines. Whites such as Falanghina and Fiano di Avellino from the South and Arneis from the North are interesting if not elegant wines that have a great balance of acidity and minerality. These wines see little if any oak treatment, and go smashingly with food.

One of my favorite wines, and an often under-appreciated grape varietal of Piemonte found in Northern Italy is the grape (and wine) known as Barbera. These wines tend to drink well now and are typically great values. K&L, Wine Club, and Beltramo’s are but a few retailers in the Bay Area that carry a great selection of Italian wines. Talk to the staff, they will lead you in the right direction!

I have to add that Italy makes a really fun and inexpensive sparkling wine called Prosecco that I mentioned earlier. It is a lively, clean bubbly with a vibrant acidity that will jumpstart your palate.

Italian wine to me evokes passion and emotion and makes you want to say ciao a lot. This little blurb is really the tip of something broad, deep, and very delicious. Uncork a bottle and go on a little holiday with your senses.

the socialite: Wok On The Wild Side

The Ninth Annual ~WOK ON THE WILD SIDE~ is coming up. It's an event that is prepared and presented by the students and chefs of City College of San Francisco’s Culinary Arts and Hospitality Studies Department. The Culinary (CAHS) program at CCSF is the oldest public two-year A.A. program in the U.S., with stellar alums like Jeff Hanak at Nopa, Nick Peyton of Cyrus, and Sean O'Brien of Myth, just to name a few. Go to any fine restaurant, hotel or catering company in the SF Bay Area and beyond and you'll find a CAHS alum. That said, they are a public school in an era of low (really low) funding. The Wok is their annual fundraiser when they open their main kitchen and showcase the chefs and students.

The event means four kitchens, eight chefs, and lots of students, serving up the sweet, spicy, savory… and grilled, roasted and toasted. Take an international taste tour of exquisite food and wines, while a live auction will offer elegant dinners, romantic getaways, fine foods, wines, and overnight hotel accommodations to bid on.

This special event benefits student programs including scholarships and upgrades of kitchen and classroom facilities for the CAHS, a great event to support.

Wok On The Wild Side
Friday, April 27, 2007

City College of San Francisco
Statler Wing
Ocean/Phelan Campus
50 Phelan Avenue SW156
San Francisco, CA 94112

415-239-3152
website

6pm-9pm

$75 per person

the socialite: Silks Winemaker Dinners

~SILKS~ is kicking in their second round of winemaker dinners—I’d say Wine Director and Master Sommelier Richard Dean has been busy. And you know how I feel about Chef de Cuisine Joel Huff’s wonderful food. That Henriot dinner is calling.

What’s unique about these dinners is that each event is preceded by an hour-long tasting seminar with the winemaker or winery representative. This allows for a comprehensive examination of the wines as well as greater interaction between the guests and the winemaker. Following the tasting seminar, a four-course dinner will be served that pairs the wines with a menu especially created for the evening.

Prices are per person and do not include tax or gratuity. The schedule for the rest of the year is as follows:

Tuesday, April 24, 2007
Freeman California Wine Dinner with Ken and Akiko Freeman
7pm, $160

Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Louis Jadot Burgundy Dinner with Olivier Masmondet, Matre Sommelier of Louis Jadot
7pm, $160

Tuesday, June 12, 2007
S.A. Prum Riesling Dinner with Raimund Prum of S.A. Prum, Mosel
7pm, $150

Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Domaine Carneros Sparkling Wine Dinner with Eileen Crane, Winemaker, Domaine Carneros
7pm, $150

Tuesday, August 14, 2007
L’ Aventure Paso Robles Wine Dinner with Stephan Asseo, Winemaker, L’ Aventure Winery
7pm, $160

Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Champagne Henriot Dinner with Tanya Pringsheim of Champagne Henriot
7pm, $190

Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Opus One Wine Dinner with Michael Silacci Winemaker, Opus One, Mondavi/Rothschild Winery
7pm, $295

Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Cakebread California Wine Dinner with Dennis Cakebread, Senior VP, Cakebread Cellars
7pm, $160

Silks Winemaker Dinners
Various dates

Silks
222 Sansome St.
in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Cross: Pine St.
San Francisco, CA 94104

Reservations:
Call Richard Dean
415-276-9787
or
email rdean [at] mohg [dot] com

the starlet: April 24, 2007

Okay, this is some real star power. Luke Wilson was spotted waiting for his table outside Delfina last Wednesday (see, even Luke has to wait!). He was also at the Ambassador later that night with Johnny Knoxville. Like, swoon. How’s that for a man sandwich?

Now, I’m not a sports girl, but I figured some of you would like to know Omar Vizquel of the Giants celebrated his 40th birthday at Tres Agaves on Sunday after the game with 150 friends. Giants players attending including Rich Aurilia, Randy Winn, winning pitcher Matt Cain, and Armando Benitez, and Dusty Baker made a surprise appearance. There was live salsa music, and Omar even sang a couple songs. La Cucaracha? Maybe not.

letter from the tablehopper: April 17, 2007

I have to say, I am quite proud of myself for attending the Whiskies of the World event this weekend without being hung over the next day! Am I becoming more responsible? Or is my tolerance just incredible? Anyway, good thing I was feeling swell after brunch at XYZ on Sunday because I went to see Grindhouse, and man, with the Dario Argento-esque gore-fest times ten, I would hate to see it while feeling iffy. The film made my sides hurt from laughing—it’s just brilliant on so many levels. I laughed, I cried, it was better than “Cats.” Just wait until it unloads the “Machete” trailer. Go. See. It.

Last night I was one of the judges for the “Think Pink” Moet & Chandon Rosé cocktail mixing competition at Harry Denton's Starlight Room. Man, this town has some mighty talented bartenders, so it was tough to choose, but it was Todd Smith from Bourbon and Branch who won the competition with his “Pink Cream Soda.” Fellow cocktail lovers, just wait until you read about the upcoming San Francisco Cocktail Week in the chatterbox.

I am not going to comment on the profoundly sad event that happened in Virginia this week, except to say tax woes suddenly seem rather insignificant. Those poor, poor people.

Take care, be nice, and be well,

~Marcia

the chatterbox: April 17, 2007

So, the waiting game is (almost) over. ~FIFTH FLOOR~ (it seems) has honed in on their new executive chef: but I am not allowed to say who it is just yet because the deal isn’t final. So let’s just run this as a blind item. All I can say is that he’s French! And renovations are in the cards. Hopefully I can spill the beans soon—but the ink isn’t dry yet, so it’s as good as a rumor for now. More soon!

Okay, this is some totally sweet news. ~WILLIAM WERNER~, the former pastry chef extraordinaire from the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay (his pastry creations seriously blow my mind) has joined The Village Pub and Spruce as the executive pastry chef for both restaurants. Now yet another reason why I can’t wait for Spruce to open!

~MASA'S~ has hired a new executive pastry chef, Camal el Sherifi, to replace Keith Jeanminette, who left earlier this year after almost 14 years. El Sherifi is a graduate of the Fondation Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, and was an assistant patissier at Valrhona L’Ecole Du Grand Chocolat before becoming patissier at the world-renowned and award-winning boutique, Pierre Hermé Patisserie. He was also the head pastry chef at Draeger’s, plus executive pastry chef for the Sheraton Hotel in Dubai, UAE, and the Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Masa’s is moving into its 25th year, so they must be pretty happy with the new hire. 648 Bush St. at Powell, 415-989-7154.

Another one who has made it through the long haul: ~EBISU~ in the Sunset is turning 25! That is something like 200 in restaurant years. So in honor of the occasion, starting in May, the restaurant will close for a month so it can have a much-needed facelift. Once it reopens, there will be more seating, a new tatami room, a new sushi bar, and a new kitchen. New new new! They will also be adding some new dishes once it reopens, and introducing online ordering at the end of May. As a clever interim solution, they will be moving Ebisu to Hotei, its sister restaurant right across the street during the construction. Also coming up, Ebisu, Hotei, and their SFO location will all begin using recycled, biodegradable containers and bags. Word. 1283 9th Ave. at Irving, 415-566-1770.

Another ~BURGER JOINT~ location will be opening: this one is just across from the ballpark on King Street. They are hoping for a July opening, and there will be about 70-75 indoor and outdoor seats available. 242 King St. between 3rd and 4th Streets.

~SEARS FINE FOOD~, home of the famous Swedish pancakes, has recently hired a new executive chef, Patricia Blecha, who is adding some upscale French-Cali cuisine to the formerly comfort food-oriented dinner menu, like Boeuf Bourguignon and lamp chops with Merguez sausage. She has cooked at Le Zinc in Noe Valley, and Forbes Island. 439 Powell St. at Sutter, 415-986-0700.

A report on upcoming openings (and closures):

~SPORK~ is opening today, Tuesday the 17. For a reminder on what this groovy spot is all about, click here for all the details. 1058 Valencia St. at Hill, between 21st and 22nd Streets, 415-643-5000.

Another cutie in the Mission that is set to open soon is ~BAR BAMBINO~, which will be ready to welcome the public with a full menu on April 26. Click here for the earlier write-up. 2931 16th St. between Mission and South Van Ness, 415-701-VINO.

Opening this Saturday, April 21, is ~JONES RESTAURANT~ in the former Marina Sports Bar & Grill space, a project from the One Industry Group. Gone is the sports bar vibe, and it’s going to be more of a lounge and an upscale American eatery serving classics with a twist. Prime steaks are the main feature, and other dishes include crab corndogs with homemade ketchup, Kurobuta pork chops with polenta and mustard greens, and there’s even a PB+J sammy made with homemade peanut butter, pinot noir grape jelly, organic Texas toast, and it comes with a shot of milk. (Make mine a double.) The young chef is 24-year-old Jamaal Taherzadeh who has worked under Kerry Simon.

23 wines will be available by the glass and some big-ticket wines will be available by the bottle as well. Drinks are on the higher end: $12 martinis and $10 craft cocktails made with quality ingredients and fresh fruit; personally, I need to try the Southern Peach since Peach is one of my nicknames, and yes, this drank has bourbon in it (Makers Mark Bourbon, Crème de Peche Liqueur, Peach Puree and OJ)! They have added a formal dining area, and a VIP area for large parties. The look is high-end meets roadhouse, with an array of Jack Daniels bottles above the bar (it sounds like I have already been there!), and chicken wire around the DJ booth. Sports will be broadcast on the TV screens when it’s a big game day, and they will also have Sinatra Sundays with Rat Pack tunes, and Cowboy Wednesdays, with country music and westerns. Hours are 4pm-2am, with happy hour 4pm-7pm; the kitchen will open around 5pm, and serve until midnight. Brunch will be coming soon. 2400 Lombard St. at Scott, 415-440-2000.

~VISIT~ has opened in the Lower Haight, serving Thai food for lunch noon-4pm and for dinner (until midnight). It has a pretty striking contemporary look, especially considering what most Thai places in the city look like. 518 Haight St. at Fillmore, 415-626-6262.

~CORTEZ'S~ reopening has now been pushed to May 1, but it’s looking pretty solid date-wise. 550 Geary St. at Jones, 415-292-6360.

~JUNI TEPPAN AND SUSHI~, the teppanyaki space in the Lower Polk, has closed. 1217 Sutter St. at Polk.

Another closure to report, this one is in cocktail land (a great place to live!). After 11½ years of business, the ~RED ROOM~ will be closing in July. I used to get my big fishbowl martinis here in the mid-90s—I blurrily remember it fondly. You may remember the Commodore Hotel was recently purchased by the Academy of Art, and was transformed into dorms for its students. The Red Room’s lease is up, so they are opting to close—being a bar in a college dorm is not the best business model. (The Red Room’s closure does not affect the neighboring Canteen, which still has three years on its lease.) Thanks for all the boozy nights, Red Room! 827 Sutter St. at Leavenworth, 415-346-7666.

Now, this is my kind of week. Buckle up, people, for ~SAN FRANCISCO COCKTAIL WEEK~ (the site should be up soon). In celebration of World Cocktail Day (which is May 13), some of San Francisco’s top bartenders and mixologists, including Jeff Hollinger of Absinthe, H. Joseph Ehrmann of Elixir, and Duggan McDonnell of Cantina, have organized a weeklong celebration (May 14-21) of San Francisco’s cocktail scene that will culminate on Monday, May 21, at Absinthe Brasserie and Bar.

Beginning Monday, May 14, over 30 of the most popular bars, restaurants and lounges will participate in San Francisco Cocktail Week by featuring two limited-edition cocktails, one classic recipe and one original cocktail created by each location’s “Cocktail Champion” especially for the event. The whole week is being sponsored by. Participating bars and restaurants will include: Absinthe, Elixir, Cantina, Bourbon & Branch, Alembic, Range, Eastside West, Citizen Cake, NOPA, Slanted Door, Tres Agaves, Le Colonial, Presidio Social Club, and many others. On Monday, May 21, Absinthe Brasserie & Bar will host a celebratory evening combining both traditional and creative cocktails with an array of appetizers. Gary Regan will be guest bartending. Tickets will be $45 per person. The event is designed to benefit Tales of the Cocktail, an organization that celebrates the history of the cocktail in New Orleans and assists in the revitalization of the city’s hospitality industry. For tickets to the May 21 event, contact Vanessa Harris at vharris [at] absinthe [dot] com or call 415-551-1453.

Brunch alert: ~PRES A VI GLOBAL CUISINE AND WINE BAR~ has begun serving weekend brunch from 10am-2:30pm. They have that sweet 80-seat outdoor patio which will be gorg on a nice sunny morning. Some menu items will include an herbed goat cheese omelet, corned beef and Anaheim chili hash, Dungeness crab cakes Benedict (wow, that sounds light!), and French toast. One Letterman Drive, near the corner of Lombard and Lyon Streets, 415-409-3000.

Just in case some of you night owls planned to head to ~NOPA~ for a bite this week, they have closed for one week to honor their one-year anniversary, in addition to celebrate the marriage of owners Laurence Jossel and Allyson Woodman, which just happened on Sunday. (Congrats all.) NOPA reopens on Thursday the 19th.

And be sure to tune in to the Food Channel on Sunday at 9pm, because it’s local boy Cosentino (from Incanto) versus Batali on ~IRON CHEF AMERICA~. More details here.

Oh, and one last thing: I thought you’d like to know the spring issue of Edible San Francisco is out! Click here to see where you can pick one up!

the regular: Foreign Cinema

Eggs for breakfast, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways: fried and deglazed in balsamic ($10), poached with grilled duck breast and shiitakes ($12), whipped in a Champagne omelette with crème fraîche and Fontina ($12)… Sigh. Swoon. Bwok.

Brunch at ~FOREIGN CINEMA~ is a gorgeous thing, especially with a dozen of the restaurant’s Botticelli beauties (oysters on the half shell)—you can even get the rare Olympia here for $2 each. While a flute of the Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé will put you back a yuppie food stamp ($20), one sip will tell you this ethereal combination is so worth it.

While you’re sitting there savoring your spicy salad of a Bloody Mary (they make a mighty fine one here), you can either be seated outside in the fresh air in the enclosed courtyard (good for the hang over), or inside the spacious industrial chic dining room that always feels comfortable and sexy, like your favorite pair of tight jeans. The light is flattering, even if you’re as sallow as a scientist and a touch green around the gills.

I am so grateful there are a few stylish brunch places like this that exist in the City, where you’re not standing outside with your latte and a bunch of hungry ruffians—where else would I bring my film industry pack o’ mos when they are up visiting from LA, or my stylee kitten-heeled Manhattanite fashionista pal? It’s the kind of brunch that fits like a pair of Manolos for groups (hello, bridal showers) or a date (I heart daytime dates). And you can come on Saturday OR Sunday. And, holla, you can make reservations.

Start with the fruit-filled “Pop Tarts,” and if I was giving up vegetarianism (this scenario is purely hypothetical, mind you) the slow-cooked brown sugar-smoked bacon would quite possibly be the first thing I would eat to welcome me back to meat.

Have you done brunch here? No? Well, I recommend you see what you can do about that.

So, back on dates: this place is one of my top ten romantic spots for dinner. The dim light is just right, the volume is nice, the fireplace is cozy. Purr. Walking through the long hallway off grungy Mission Street flickering with tea lights, it’s like going down the rabbit hole into some urbane hideaway, and the Mad Hatter is greeting you with a French 75.

As most folks know, the outdoor courtyard hosts nightly films that play on the back wall starting at dusk, ranging from Fellini to Breakfast at Tiffany’s (you can check the schedule here). I highly recommend starting at the back bar with a cocktail if you have time before your reservation.

The dinner menu is quintessential SF: Cal-Med seasonal and sustainable. Start with some warm olives ($4) while you debate who is getting what. Vegetables are often a highlight here—on a recent visit, tender asparagus was served with a gribiche vinaigrette (was that tarragon I detected?), crumbled boiled egg and breadcrumbs ($9), the essence of spring. Salads also sing, like mixed arugula with a well balanced rose petal vinaigrette, toasted pistachios, and crumbled ricotta salata ($10.50)—each bite was tangy and just right. I found the venison pate de maison ($9) a little too subtle—it definitely needed the Dijon and house-made pickles to perk it up.

Mains include a delightfully juicy pork chop ($25) that is brined with lavender, adding a slight hint of fragrance. Hand down, this chop was just too stellar for words. Scrump-tious. OINK! The Madras curry roast chicken ($19) at the table next to me smelled heavenly, but we were munching on the Frita ($23) instead, a pile of juicy fried fish, like snapper and cod and scallops, plus artichokes and fennel. I found the accompanying truffle mayo superfluous—all it needed was a little squeeze of the lemon it came with.

It’s refreshing to look at a dessert menu and actually have a hard time deciding. On two, mind you. The crisp cannoli are always a hit ($5.50)—I also like to order them after brunch with an espresso. The affogato ($6) is also good for post-brunch, to help defibrillate you from your food coma. The gateau au chocolate ($7.50) was served with coconut cream and amarena cherries, delivering on everything a chocolate dessert should be.

Since Foreign Cinema has been open since 1999, I imagine many folks have dined here at least once. It’s easy to forget how dreamy it is since it feels so familiar. Yes, the menu falters in a few spots or sometimes service can be a little off, but the experience as a whole is usually so fab it makes you grateful for the vision of chef-owners Gayle Pirie and John Clark. And wait, did I tell you about the brunch?

Foreign Cinema
2534 Mission Street
Cross: 21st St.
San Francisco, CA 94110

415-648-7600
website

Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm
Fri-Sat 6pm-11pm
Sun 6pm-9pm

Brunch:
Sat 11am-2:30pm
Sun 11am-3:30pm
Café menu Sat-Sun 3:30pm-6pm

Apps $7-$13
Entrées $18-$28
Desserts $5.50-$7.50

the wino: Don Davis on Wine: The New Book Club

Don Davis of Uncorked Events has always had an eye for a good party. Whether having half his high school over for a night of cheap beer while the parents were out of town, renting out a mansion in Chicago during college, or gathering 1,500 people for a Moroccan-themed fundraiser in the city, Don has always thrived on bringing friends together to really enjoy life. His focus now lies with hosting public, private, and corporate wine-focused events throughout the Bay Area and beyond.

Wine: The New Book Club by Don Davis

While I do like to read, wine is my great passion. It’s like a book club; just replace each book with a bottle! The combination of wine, friends, and food is hard to beat. And the fact that wine helps to prevent heart disease is an added bonus!

While there are absolutely no rules for how to set up a wine group, I’ve made a few suggestions to get your creative juices (and hopefully fermented grape juices) flowing.

Starting a Wine Group
Begin with a manageable group of ten people or less. Don’t worry about the level of each person’s wine knowledge; the most important factor is making sure everyone really loves wine. The thrilling part of a wine group is tasting, learning, and sharing together regardless of “expertise.” Start with a meeting once every month or two—you can always increase the frequency later.

Developing a Theme
Keep it simple at first with the wines easy to find. “California Pinot Noir” or “Sauvignon Blanc under $20” are themes that come to mind. Having a country-specific night like “Australia” or “South Africa” is always a winner as well. Over time you’ll likely opt for more specific themes. For example, you could have a “Syrah World Tour” night and assign each person a specific country or region that produces syrah.

If you have a real bunch of wine geeks, you won’t be short of ideas. A few creative ones I’ve been a part of include: “California Cabernets 1990–1995” and “White Burgundy & Fried Chicken” (oh, what a night that was!).

There are endless potential themes, and coming up with them is one of the great pleasures of a wine group. Why not open a bottle and think about it?

Making the Night Successful
In an ideal world, you would have a separate glass for each wine, but this is impractical. If the host does not have enough glassware, ask guests to bring one or two. I recommend having two glasses per person (if possible) to enable side-by-side comparisons.

Make sure you have plenty of food on hand–not only will food enhance the experience, it also enables tasting more wines without getting too tipsy. It can be as simple as ordering pizzas or have each guest bring an appetizer. My personal favorite is to cook up a big feast. This works best if your group loves to cook and you rotate hosting (and dishwashing) duties.

Experiment with blind tastings, hiding the labels in brown bags. This really helps in detecting nuances and differences in the wines, while removing any preconceived notions you have. With that said, I find blind tastings tedious if you do them all the time, so mix it up!

Don’t worry about taking extensive notes—the most fun part about a wine group is enjoying each other’s company while sharing a passion. It is helpful, though if you have one scribe in the group that can email the list of wines tasted the next day. If you have a volunteer, creating a wine group blog is easier than ever.

Keys to Longevity
Have someone in charge of the schedule and emailing the group. Take turns selecting the theme. Consider rotating the location amongst the group. Take a trip to wine country together once a year. Splurge on a night of special wines every so often. And most importantly, just enjoy every last minute of toasting and tasting one of life’s greatest pleasures with your friends.

the lush: 443

The former Velvet Lounge reopened this past weekend (April 14) as ~443~. George Somers, who owns Bert & Ernie’s in Redding, partnered up with a friend from college, plus a helicopter pilot, a fireman, and a pal who owns an apartment complex. Sounds like the beginning to a good joke, huh?

It took about six months to spiff the place up. Some of you locals will remember this was the famed Mabuhay Gardens (AKA the Fab Mab) back in the day (I remember seeing one show there when I was in high school before it closed: Flipper). All the big punk bands played there, from Dead Kennedys to Iggy Pop to Black Flag. Supposedly the Kinks even played there too. Was happy to hear the new owners are keen to get some live music going there again, but there will also be dancing too. The vintage building has brick walls and the main room has 1,500 square feet of dance space, with a stage and two bars. There is also a 2,000-square-foot enclosed VIP area available for private parties, and will be left open as a lounge space if no one books the room. There are some huge doors that can open to the street—but this depends on whether they get clearance to get some day parties going. Time will tell!

443
443 Broadway
Cross: Montgomery St.
San Francisco, CA 94133

415-788-0228
website

the socialite: A Taste of Tamales by the Bay

San Francisco's first annual tamale tasting, ~A TASTE OF TAMALES BY THE BAY~ will take place to benefit Benchmark Institute, a nonprofit organization that teaches advocates in nonprofits how to use the law to help low-income communities. Guests will sample tamales from some of the finest tamale makers in Northern California, including up-and-coming food artists supported by La Cocina Community Kitchen, Chef Mateo Granados and Maria Martinez, also known as the Tamale Queen.

A variety of tamale styles will be served, including Mexican, Yucatecan, Salvadoran, and Chilean. Guests can purchase their favorites at the event to serve at home. Ceja Vineyards will be on hand to share information on choosing wines to serve with tamales, with their wines available for purchase by the glass and bottle. Entertainment will include live music by The Whitewater Band, and demonstrations on making tamales as well as serving them.

A Taste of Tamales by the Bay
Sun., April 22, 2007

Fort Mason Center, Landmark Building A
Golden Gate Room
Buchanan at Marina Blvd.
San Francisco, CA

Noon-4pm

Adults: $75
Children under 12: $40

Purchase online
or call 415-695-9296

the socialite: Spring Breakfast by the Bay with Marion Nestle

Now this is a breakfast where you can actually get smart (and it’s not just because you’re eating healthy food that’s good for you): CUESA is hosting a Cinco de Mayo-inspired buffet breakfast featuring spring's harvest from the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, ~SPRING BREAKFAST BY THE BAY WITH MARION NESTLE~. Chef Chris Borges of Taste Catering will prepare the meal that will include dishes like asparagus frittata with green garlic; poblano, avocado, and ricotta quesadillas with tomatillo salsa; chorizo chilaquiles with jalapeno jack cheese; and a number of other savory dishes, fruit, and Blue Bottle coffee.

Following the meal, Marion Nestle, Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health at New York University and author of What to Eat, will talk about food politics, sustainability and nutrition. She will discuss California food safety concerns and how these issues—and CUESA—are part of a national social movement centered on food.

Registration opens at 9:30am, breakfast is served at 10am. Dr. Nestle will be speaking at approximately 10:45am.

Spring Breakfast by the Bay with Marion Nestle
Sat., May 5, 2007

Pier 1 ½
Two minutes north of the Ferry Building
Embarcadero
San Francisco, CA

415-291-3276 x 103
website

10am-noon

$60 per person
Buy tickets

the starlet: April 17, 2007

Now, I know this wasn’t at a restaurant, but whatever: Kathleen Turner was spotted at the prepared foods section at Whole Foods on California Street! She had a real dinner with a couple friends on Sunday at Venticello after a grueling opening week of Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

A tablehopper reader was dining at Plouf and saw Conan O'Brien (with entourage) scoping out the scene before he goes live next week. He also dined with Bob Saget and cohorts at Allegro at a late Saturday night dinner—the limo was polished outside while they were inside dining.

letter from the tablehopper: April 10, 2007

I am sure plenty of you out there are happy Easter finally got here so you could start eating sugar or bread or drinking again. (I wasn’t brought up to be a quitter, so I just stayed my course during that whole Lent thing.) What I was happy about was Easter means two things in our house: lasagne, and kid (the baby goat kind). Yes, Sunday night’s dinner was the ne plus ultra of delicious. Although my first Passover dinner (at Delfina last week) was also rather tasty.

I also enjoyed hearing about people in their 20s and 30s still partaking in Easter egg hunts (in public places, no less), and mothers making Easter baskets and hiding eggs. Some things never change. It’s enough to make me say, “Thank you Easter bunny, bwok bwok!”

I am also re-firing up my bookworm section since I have tons of great books I’ve been trying to find the time to read. This week includes a couple, more to come...

~Marcia

the chatterbox: April 10, 2007

A tablehopper reader was asking me about ~LOTTA'S BAKERY~ on Polk Street, and we gotta love the Culinary Muse for posting the details not two days later and setting me up with the contact, meow. G. Earl Darny is opening this full-service bakery on April 17 that is going to serve an array of treats, from breakfast pastries to bread, cookies, cakes, pies, and even some candy down the road, all baked and made on-site. The bright and cheerful space will feature striped walls of pale yellow and pink, and lots of wood, just like an old-fashioned candy store. It was formerly the space for Cookies By Design, and before that it was Holcombe’s Bakery back in the day—right across the street from Miller’s East Coast West Delicatessen. There will be a few tables where you can have coffee or tea, but it’s mostly geared for take-home treats. Darny has quite the pastry history, including working at Stars and its Starbake bakery, plus working with Wendy Brucker at the Shattuck Hotel and Jennifer Millar from Sweet Adeline Bakeshop in Berkeley, in addition to projects with Emily Luchetti (including helping to open Farallon and work with her on her cookbook, Four Star Desserts), and was the executive pastry chef at Bay Wolf and contributed to The Bay Wolf Cookbook. He knows his sweet treats. Oh, and about that name, in case you are wondering who Lotta is: it’s actually from Darny’s drag name, Lotta Lust, who seems to come out only on Halloween. Go girl. Open 7am-5pm Tue-Sun. 1720 Polk St. between Washington and Clay, 415-359-9039.

Update on Kuleto’s big waterfront projects: both ~EPIC ROASTHOUSE~ and ~WATERBAR~ are full-tilt, and they are gunning to open in October. Those of you looking for a new gig, they are recruiting for all key management positions: GM, managers, wine directors, bar managers, private dining, sous and pastry chefs. Get it.

Some changes in GM land: ~CHRISTIAN ADAMS~ is now the GM of Ruggero Gadaldi’s Pesce, taking over from when Reza Esmali left in the beginning of the year, and then Gabriel Freiberg was holding it down (Freiberg was mostly at Last Supper Club in the Mission). Adams is hoping to make the wine list all Italian but will otherwise be keeping things status quo (why change a good thing?), with just some small tweaks here and there.

So a big up to ~SEAN O’BRIEN at MYTH~ restaurant—ends up he was voted one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in America. Nope, not much competition there, LOL. The ten winners will be featured in the July issue, and in the meantime, you can see the other winners here. O’Brien will also travel to Colorado in June for the Food & Wine Magazine Classic in Aspen, where he will prepare an exclusive tasting dinner with the other winners. I wanna go!

Just a reminder that SF restaurant owners will be gathering at ~SALT HOUSE~ tomorrow, Wednesday April 10, to talk about next steps with the latest hot industry issues, including mandatory healthcare, enacting a tip credit, potentially closing for a day in protest, and other topics. All restaurant owners are encouraged to come. The meeting begins at 3pm. Salt House, 545 Mission St. at First, 415-543-8900.

fresh meat: Presidio Social Club

I am a rather nostalgic person, with a particular soft spot for most objets from the ’20s-’40s; a little kid once said I was like an old lady with my collection of handbags, scarves, and Bakelite bracelets. Thanks kid—you now get nothing in my will. (Ha ha! Although he was totally right.)

Suffice to say, my inner old lady was eagerly awaiting the opening of ~PRESIDIO SOCIAL CLUB~ in historic Army barracks, one of only four remaining structures in the Army’s East Cantonment, which at one time even housed the Buffalo Soldiers. (For you fellow history buffs, there’s an old pic of the site here.)

I was pleased to see how restaurateurs Ray Tang and Shawn Kearney-Tang took the historical provenance seriously but still had fun with it, creating a retro Americana outpost full of vintage touches that never feel heavy handed. (No Johnny Rockets experience here.) The cherry red vintage drum set by the door is about as cheerful as the ladies at the host stand, but it was the long and gleaming marble bar that really vectored me in, with shining stainless steel cases behind the bar that are my kind of medicine cabinets. Hallelujah, there are lots of them. (Bottles, and cabinets.)

The bar gets pretty packed with folks swilling a good number of classics (French 75s, Sidecars, and the now-ubiquitous Aviation) plus some nouveau numbers (gimlet with mezcal, the Gunpowder cocktail with cayenne)—there are 16 or so cocktails total. Most clock in at about $7 (but don’t expect fishbowl-sized martini glasses here—these are more old-school in size, as in petite). You can also get the house margarita for only $5.

The vibe is boisterous, fueled by margie- and meat-fueled lads at the tree-trunk communal table, or the tables of fillies drinking pinot noir, and the open layout encourages plenty of checking each other out. Banquettes are the color of a good ristretto, and the lighting is just the right level of dim. (Designer Olle Lundberg also did the Slanted Door.) There are tall palms and ferny plants (no, I am not much of a horticulturist) and lazily spinning overhead fans—the clapboard building and its interior look make it feel very USO-meets-Dirty Dancing. It will be gorgeous during lunchtime with all the light streaming in from the wall of windows.

The all-American menu looks like it was transported from San Francisco circa 1941, and the prices, while not offering abalone for $2 and Celery Victor for 40¢, are downright affordable. I couldn’t resist the Cannibal Sandwich ($9), slices of carpaccio-esque beef topped with sweet Maui onion, capers, chives, and hard boiled egg—like a deconstructed steak tartare draped on marbled rye bread. Delish.

My inner (New Yorker) old lady couldn’t pass up the Deli-Style Chopped Liver ($5), a hearty scoop of thick and creamy livery goodness studded with hard-boiled egg and served with rye bread (duh), plus a pile of cornichons that just weren’t quite snappy enough. (Tang found his inspiration for this recipe from the Second Ave Deli in New York, which was an East Village institution.)

Folks seem to be enamored with the Gruyere Cheese Toasts ($8), which is basically a grilled cheese sandwich cut into four little triangles (yes, fancy style) with a side of tomato soup for dunking; I asked why it was called fondue tomato dip on the menu and it ends up it has loads of butter in it—sometimes ignorance is bliss. So all in all, it’s like a gourmet take on a soup and sandwich special.

The meat-heavy menu has some classics on there, like Grilled Calf’s Liver ($15) and Range Veal Paillard ($18)—I opted for the Roasted Sonoma Chicken ($16) which had nice flavor of garlic and herbs, and you get an entire half a chicken, but the breast arrived far too dry. Brine that puppy, perhaps? The Club Flat Iron Steak ($19) sat under a (yikes, too plentiful) scoop of peppercorn butter, and while ordered medium rare showed up pretty darned rare. I dig rare, so I was cool with it, but some folks would have had to send it back.

There are a couple fish dishes as well, but I didn’t see anything overtly vegetarian, except the salads, sides, or mac & cheese. I’m sure you veggies could ask the kitchen to whip something up. Mains come with a choice of sides, like (yay!) tender horseradish spaeztle, spinach, or my inner (English) old lady’s personal fave were the delicious mushy peas with mint.

I had to investigate the Kobe Beer Rib Sloppy Joe ($15), which is made with the rib meat between the back ribs—props for the clever use of the scraps. But not qualifying it as “American Kobe” was a small peeve. I have a feeling this dish will leave folks divided. It’s darned rich, to be expected, and the sweet sauce infused with clove, cinnamon, and other spices might be too fragrant for some, while others will simply love its sloppy meaty Manwich-ness.

It’s all homey fare, and designed to be approachable and satisfying. While nothing made me do total back flips, in the end, it’s not really that style of food, in part because it’s so familiar. As for the kinks, I imagine it’s only going to get better as they hit their stride.

I will say dessert got me totally fired up. The baked-to order Chocolate Cupcakes (all desserts $7) with the crunchy croccante topping were très charmant, and the lemon meringue special with layers of curd and cake and cream was lemony bliss—no wonder it sells out. The Banana Cream Pie is more like a little tart instead of a big ole wedge of pie, with custard and cubes of banana covered in a fluffy hat of cream and a couple curls of hazelnut chocolate. One forkful and the whole things falls down, but it all ends up tasting delicious in your mouth. There are also $4 sides, like Chocolate Pudding, or Vanilla Parfait too.

I didn’t expect to see so many European choices on the tight wine list, with about one choice for each varietal (except the biggies like chard, pinot and zin, which each had a couple wineries to choose from). The price range has something for everyone, including five whites and five reds available in a glass or half carafe size, plus there is a house white (chard) and red (cab).

Servers trot around in aprons that reminded me of striped railroad hats or coveralls, plus they sport a red tie and white shirt. Snappy. While friendly and fun, many don’t quite have it all together yet—again, in time I believe it will be a tighter ship. While you are waiting for your dessert menu to arrive, or your bill, you can admire a number of thoughtful details, like the cute carafes, and the red and white tea towels instead of napkins. Or the purse hooks by the sinks in the ladies room (why thank you), the red and white floral dessert plates the Tangs actually kept from their first restaurant, groovy coasters, even the vintage postcard that arrives in the red embossed check holder at the end all point to a larger vision and foresight that I am confident knows where everything ought to be.

Coming attractions: weeknight suppers with dishes like brisket and suckling pig, lunch, and dining on the large outdoor patio in the back (plus clambakes and barbecues out there). Oh, and happy hour. A bonus that’s in effect now is the ample free parking. Score. There is also a spacious private room for parties. I also heard of some folks doing total buyouts of the restaurant, which would make for one heck of a party space (if you’re loaded like that).

Presidio Social Club
563 Ruger St.
Building 563
Near Lombard Gate
San Francisco, CA 94129

415-885-1888
website

Mon-Sat 5:30pm-10:30pm

Apps $5-$11
Entrées $16-$28
Desserts $4-$7

the wino: Alex Fox on the Master Sommelier Exam

Alex Fox works as the Wine Director for Myth Restaurant in San Francisco. As unlikely as it may sound from the piece below, he plans on sitting for the Master of Wine degree in 2009.

Alex Fox on the Master Sommelier Exam

A few weeks back, wine professionals of all stripes descended upon San Francisco to sit for one of the most prestigious wine accreditations in the world, the Master Sommelier exam. The title of Master Sommelier, offered by the Court of Master Sommeliers, along with the Master of Wine degree offered by the Institute of Masters of Wine, are the highest peaks reachable in the wine world. Each involves several levels of testing that get exponentially more difficult until finally, after years of study, you achieve the right to torture yourself through several days of intense testing to see if you can join the rarified air of the privileged few who pass the highest level.

God forbid, during the blind tasting section of the exam, you make a left turn at Albuquerque, and due to the homogenous nature of most wines these days, fail that section. Then it is back to the drawing board. See you next year.

Or, maybe during the service section of the exam, while trying to add some levity to a tense situation, you recommend a cool, crisp Pabst Blue Ribbon to go along with those dozen oysters and you fail that section too. Off with your head. If I sound somewhat cynical, well, then good, it is intentional.

Institutions dedicated to promoting general standards and the continual pursuit of greater levels of knowledge in a given profession are a good thing. The problem, highlighted by the poor dejected souls who dined at Myth fresh off of learning they had failed one or more sections of the exam, demonstrates the danger of putting too much weight on a title, a point score, or the opinion of someone else to determine one’s own worth.

These four talented young wine professionals are employed at several of the most prestigious restaurants in the country. They have reached their current positions through hard work and a daily demonstration of the requisite skills needed to successfully execute their jobs. So, why do they need a degree to reinforce what they are already doing?

The answer is they don’t. In fact, haven’t we lost sight of what, in my opinion should be the raison d’etre for embarking on a course of study for either of these titles, the process itself, and the subsequent enhancement of skills, to be able to better serve the consumer? (Wow, that was a mouthful.) Sure, we should throw career enhancement in there as well. But, what seems to happen instead is the pursuit of a degree to be able to enter a semi merit-based selective club that excludes most people. Ultimately there isn’t much value in that.

The world of surfing offers a useful example. Surfing has become a big dollar sport with competitions being used by surfers as the best way to snag lucrative endorsement contracts. There is a point system at each of these contests that eventually leads to one surfer being crowned the top surfer of the year. It promotes what is referred to as contest surfing and many surfers have become quite wealthy surfing to win tournaments.

A few years back a surfer named Tom Curren hit the scene and won several world titles. He learned the contest rules and surfed in the particular contests needed to rack up points. However, within the rules, he still surfed each wave with the pure intentions of furthering his personal connection with the energy of the ocean and each particular wave. In surfing lingo he is considered a soul surfer. Surfing is his passion and the contests offered a platform and the means for him to grow as a surfer.

We can learn a lot from the example of Tom Curren. If pursuing the title of Master of Wine or Master Sommelier enhances your passion for wine and furthers your personal wine growth, then go for it. Just remember, the value is in the journey rather than the destination.

the socialite: Dining Out for Life

The annual ~Dining Out for Life~ event is coming up, and I have a couple friends hosting dinners at restaurants around the city. My friend William is hosting at Indigo, which is offering the “Ultimate Wine Dinner” for $49 served from 8pm to close, which is a prix-fixe dinner (choice of appetizer, entrée, and dessert) and all the wine you can drink from a selection of eight wines. (There is also an early bird prix-fixe menu from 5pm-7pm for $29.95.) You can make a reservation by calling 415-673-9353 or use this Open Table link, 687 McAllister Street at Gough.

Sam at Becks & Posh is also is also hosting dinner at ACME Chophouse. There are 75 participating restaurants in all, some doing lunch and/or dinner. Wherever you go, check out the raffle envelopes at the restaurant. If you enclose your own donation to STOP AIDS, in addition to the part of your bill the restaurant will donate, you’ll be entered in a raffle with some great prizes, like airline tickets, hotel stays, and restaurant gift certificates. You get one raffle entry for each $5.00 donated.

Dining Out for Life
Thu., April 26, 2007

Various locations
San Francisco, CA

website

the socialite: Meals on Wheels Star Chefs and Vintners Gala

Get your tickets now, friends, for one of the hottest events of the year: the ~MEALS ON WHEELS of SAN FRANCISCO'S 20th ANNUAL STAR CHEFS & VINTNERS GALA~. The line up is a serious who’s who of local chefs. Here’s more from them:

Over 50 of Northern California’s most illustrious chefs come together for this one-night-only epicurean extravaganza, to support Meals On Wheels of San Francisco. Boulevard’s Nancy Oakes returns as Gala Chef Chair of the event, who along with her A-list colleagues will prepare the feast, which is sure to be a food lover’s dream. Participating chefs include (in alphabetical order): Nate Appleman (A16), Bridget Batson & David Gingrass (Two), Traci Des Jardins (Jardiniere), Greg Dunmore (Ame), Todd Humphries (Martini House), Laurence Jossel (NOPA), Sean O’Brien (Myth), Daniel Patterson (Coi), Richard Reddington (Redd), Judy Rodgers & Gilbert Pilgram (Zuni Café), Ron Siegel (The Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton), Hiro Sone & Lissa Doumani (Terra), Cal Stamenov (Marinus), and Staffan Terje (Perbacco).

“The Star Chefs and Vintners Gala is the most important fundraising tool we have,’” said Dean Morehous, President of the Board of Directors of Meals On Wheels of San Francisco. “This event alone enables us to provide over 178,000 meals to the more than 1,800 seniors that rely on our services every year.”

The evening begins at 5 p.m. with a lavish hors d’oeuvre and wine reception, featuring delicious appetizers from 20 chefs, several of whom will be preparing their specialty dishes presentation-style. The main event is a sumptuous three-course meal, with each course prepared by one of 24 different chefs. The grand finale is a decadent dessert reception, with cordials and dancing. Many of California’s leading wine producers will also take part in the Gala, providing wine pairings for each of the specially prepared dishes.

During both a live and silent auction, guests will have the opportunity to bid on a number of once-in-a-lifetime items, including trips to Italy and France, a 10-day Viking Life Culinary Tour of Tuscany and Umbria, a “Wine Connoisseur” package featuring a dozen bottles of “unobtainable” wines, and private dinners and cooking classes with celebrity chefs.

Star Chefs and Vintners Gala by Meals on Wheels
Sun., May 20, 2007

Fort Mason
Festival Pavilion
San Francisco, CA

415-920-1111
ext. 221

website

5pm reception

$350 per person*
($300 is tax deductible)

the bookworm: Perfect Pairings

Being a total eater and drinker, it was only a matter of time until I dropped my fork and put down my wineglass to pick up Perfect Pairings: A Master Sommelier’s Practical Advice for Partnering Wine with Food. Author and pal Evan Goldstein partnered up with his mom, the fab Joyce Goldstein, on this enjoyable (and approachable) book that offers an overview about pairing wine, and then talks about 12 individual varietals in depth, and how to pair food with them. There are 58 recipes that are designed to showcase a number of varietals, and vice versa. I also like how it highlights what doesn’t work well (like no sangiovese with really spicy food). I’ve been trying to read a chapter a night. I should be cooking a recipe and drinking a bottle a night too, but I wouldn’t get much reading done, would I?

Perfect Pairings
by Evan Goldstein

Hardback
ISBN: 0520-243773
$29.95

328 pages

the bookworm: Insatiable—Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess

Okay, last summer while I was on the beach in Lake Tahoe devouring Gael Greene’s Insatiable—Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess, I was trying not to be totally jealous of this woman’s remarkable story as the burgeoning food critic at New York magazine in the 1970s. This tell-all novel was a rollicking good ride through some of the most seminal restaurants in recent culinary history.
Plus she was one hell of a frisky lady, bedding her share of chefs and stars (uh, yes, Elvis) and going out dancing in the discos until all hours trying to burn off her nouvelle cuisine feasts. My kind of chick. She got to hang with the best of them, from Julia to James Beard to Jean Troisgros, from Balthazar to Le Bernardin. This book is a full-tilt feast, and poses some wonderful arguments in the perennial which is better?/food vs. s*x argument.

Insatiable—Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess
by Gael Greene

Hardback
ISBN-10: 0446576999
$25.95

Link to paperback

384 pages

the starlet: April 10, 2007

Dude, Dave Chappelle was all over town. He dined at the Straits Restaurant in the Westfield Centre with his wife and other family members (believed to be his two sons and brother). Since he is a pescatarian, they checked out the Vegetable Samosas, Roti Prata, Seafood Green Curry, and Wok-fired Mussels. The staff said he was very friendly and courteous. He was also spotted in the Marina and bought some mini cupcakes for his kids at The Chestnut Bakery.

letter from the tablehopper: April 3, 2007

Can you hear my liver crying? The weekend was like surviving the high seas, which included a torrent of beer while at this week's entry in fresh meat. Actually, this week's installment features a couple write-ups from my visits to two bars around town: one was for beer and sausages, and one for crustaceans. (You thought I was gonna say bourbon, didn't you.)

So this is completely non-food related, but I have to do a shout-out for a dear friend Pete who creates some of the most jaw-dropping interactive art pieces for Burning Man, each one outdoing the last. They're like enormous surreal zoetropes. He's got a big one in store for this year, Homouroboros, and is trying to raise money for it—take a peek at some of his past works and maybe you'll feel like supporting him on this one. I know Pete would appreciate anything you can do to help fund him in this huge undertaking.

Speaking of support, the best way you can support tablehopper is to tell your friends about it—please think about forwarding it to your pals, thanks and meow.

~Marcia

the chatterbox: April 3, 2007

While it seems Laurent Manrique's Alley project in Yerba Buena Lane is running into some delays, Vijay Bist's third location for ~AMBER INDIA~ is proceeding along (the other two locations are in Mountain View and Santana Row). The 5,000-square-foot restaurant is slated to open at the end of August, with space for 130. The multi-level space will have three dining rooms (one is a private with room for 35) plus a bar and lounge area. There will be some artistic elements, including a glass sculpture of Ganesh, and they are also commissioning some contemporary artwork. The menu will include northern classics, plus some modern variations with dishes using local produce and herbs, and less butter, cream, and oil. In fact, Bist was just in India sourcing a few additional cooks for the kitchen. They will be open for lunch and dinner daily, with brunch on the weekends. 13 Yerba Buena Lane.

Out in the Richmond, Bistro Clement will be morphing into ~B STAR BAR~, an offshoot from Joycelyn Lee, the owner of Burma SuperStar just down the street. They are planning to offer small plates of Asian fusion with a few dishes from the Burma SuperStar menu, like noodles, salads, and rice plates to accompany an array of beer, wine, and soju and sake cocktails. The vibe will be comfortable and easygoing. B Star Bar will be open for lunch and dinner daily, with plans for brunch soon. There is also an outdoor patio they plan to utilize. 127 Clement St. at 3rd Ave., 415-933-9900.

Just to let you know, I spoke with the folks moving into the ~AURA SPACE~ in Bernal Heights, and they want to sit tight for now on information. The earliest something will be opening is June. Once I get the go-ahead to mention the news, you'll see it here, promise.

~PIQUEO'S~, the contemporary Peruvian restaurant from Carlos Altamirano of SoMa's Mochica is opening this Friday. The restaurant moved into the former Moki's spa