letter from the tablehopper: March 25, 2008

For those of you who celebrate it, did you have a hoppin' Easter? My dad got the thumbs up from the family for cooking the tastiest baby goat ever this year. Braising magic. Plus some pasta al forno, and cannoli for dessert, what's not to love?

I'm fired up to check out a few events this Saturday at the inaugural Pebble Beach Food & Wine shindig, running March 27–30. There are still tickets left for a few of the events, so check it out if you'd like to rub elbows with some celeb chef and winemaker types—a bunch will be there, from Keller to Trotter to Alain Passard and Philippe Legendre making the trip across the pond, plus wine-related events too (Harlan Estate retrospective tasting, anyone?).

As if I don't have enough to do each week, I'm also going to be writing a new weekly column, Foodie 411, for the San Francisco Convention and Visitor's Bureau on their new "Taste" portion of the site. It's launching today, so feel free to check it out!

A couple weeks ago I announced a few Hip Tastes events, and now the talented wino behind them, Courtney Cochran, offered to give away three copies of her fab new book, appropriately named Hip Tastes: The Fresh Guide to Wine.

So, how do you enter to win? Just forward this newsletter to one person (or more, thanks!) and cc luckyme [at] tablehopper [dot] com when you send it to your peeps—it's best if you explain why you're emailing it to them, and what tablehopper is. I promise I won't be collecting your friends' emails, those will stay private—I just need to keep track that you forwarded it to some folks. The deadline to enter is by midnight, Sunday, March 30. I will be randomly drawing the winners and will email you to let you know you've won. Good luck! And if you don't win a book, you have two weeks to get Hip Tastes for 20% off from our buddies at Green Apple Books.

Rawk,
~ Marcia

the chatterbox: March 25, 2008

Big congrats to all the local nominees for the ~2008 JAMES BEARD AWARDS~! Here are a few highlights of the local chef nominees:

Boulevard and the Slanted Door for Outstanding Restaurant

Nate Appleman (A16/SPQR) for Rising Star Chef

Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson (Tartine Bakery) and Nicole Plue
 (Redd) for Outstanding Pastry Chef

Terra (St. Helena) for Outstanding Service

Douglas Keane, Cyrus (Healdsburg); David Kinch, Manresa (Los Gatos); Craig Stoll, Delfina (San Francisco); and Michael Tusk, Quince (San Francisco) for Best Chef: Pacific region.

And big congrats to Fritz Maytag of Anchor Steam Brewery, Anchor Distilling Company, and that delicious Maytag Blue cheese, for his 2008 Lifetime Achievement Award.

The awards are Sunday, June 8, 2008, in New York.

I recently wrote a piece for San Francisco magazine on secret menu items at local restaurants (you can check out the story here) and while I was doing my research, it really made me want to return to ~POLENG LOUNGE~. Since I'm writing up both O and Monk's Kettle this week as places to equally get your drink and your dinner on, I also wanted to mention how delicious chef Tim Luym's food at Poleng Lounge continues to be. The crispy adobo wings really are some of the city's best; did you know you can get them during happy hour for .50 each? It's a six-wing minimum, which isn't difficult to rack up. Happy hour is Tue–Fri 4pm–5:30pm, with well drinks and beers for $3.

Ok, back on Luym's food: the sizzling sisig, a medley of pork with onion, pepper, coconut vinegar, and citrus served on a sizzling plate is ridiculously good, but the off-the-menu version to order for you total carnivores is the pig's face variation, with a fried egg that you mix in. Oh yeah—porkalicious—don't be afraid. The poached marrow bones are interestingly served sliced lengthwise, you'll scarf the kalbi short ribs, and the butterfish ceviche has a tantalizing balance of flavor (coconut!). With relative newcomers like Namu and Poleng Lounge on the scene, I'd say we have some hip places to get some excellent modern Asian/eats. It's pretty much the kind of food I like to get when I'm in New York. The service can be a little unprofessional/young (uh, for the record, never comment to a guest "whoa, you guys really ate a lot of food!")—but a meal here is such a great deal (most dishes are $7–$10) so I can overlook the rough edges a little bit. Pull a seat up at the bar, enjoy some sake, and graze your way through the utterly delicious menu that reads fresh and interesting. 1751 Fulton St. at Masonic, 415-441-1751.

~PLUMPJACK CAFE~ has found a new executive chef: Rick Edge. The official bio isn't out yet, but this is what I found online: he has worked under chef Ken Oringer while at Silks and Clio in Boston, with chef Laurent Gras as a sous at Peacock Alley in the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, and with Michael Mina as a sous at Aqua. He was also the chef de cuisine of the Pacific's Edge restaurant at the Highlands Inn, Park Hyatt Carmel, and chef de cuisine of Club XIX at the Lodge at Pebble Beach. Most recently, he was at the Culinary Center of Monterey as executive chef instructor of the junior and senior class, and was executive chef of Lattitudes Restaurant in Pacific Grove. If I missed anything, I'll mention it next week! He's reportedly starting in mid-April. 3127 Fillmore St. at Filbert St., 415-563-4755.

Things at ~SENS~ continue to rattle—first there was pastry chef Shuna Fish Lydon's departure, and now chef Michael Dotson and Moira Beveridge have left. The official statement from Dotson and Beveridge goes like this: "The ownership's vision for Sens Restaurant was no longer compatible with that of executive chef, Michael Dotson, and event manager, Moira Beveridge. The parties decided to go their separate ways, and the split was amicable. Dotson and Beveridge are currently looking for a space to open a restaurant on the Peninsula." Taking Dotson's place is Dane Boryta, who was the opening sous chef and worked with Dotson the first four months. A new springtime menu will be coming out shortly, but the concept is remaining the same. 4 Embarcadero Center at Drumm, 415-362-0645.

As I was riding my bike past the former Gustofino space on Church Street last week and saw the sign for ~THOROUGH BREAD AND PASTRY~. This bakery is an extension of the San Francisco Bread Institute, and will have students, graduates, and interns employed there, all under supervision in order to maintain consistency. There is a big variety of breakfast pastry, cookies, cakes, and the breads include sourdough, baguette, ciabatta, multigrain, semolina, and a rotating special variation. Some of the items are baked on-site, and others come from the institute—eventually 100% of the selection will be baked on-site. There are also some simple sandwiches, and coffee, too, so swing by for a bite and enjoy the cute back patio in this delicious springtime weather we're having. There are plans to add dessert in the evening later on. Hours are Tue–Sat 7am–7pm, and Sun 7am–3pm, closed Monday. 248 Church St. at 15th, 415-558-0690.

If you're cruising in the North Mission/Hub area and feel a hankering for some primo coffee coming on, you can now swing by the new ~FOUR BARREL COFFEE~ location for an espresso—the actual café isn't up and running, but co-owner Jeremy Tooker has a kiosk set up, with the La Mistral machine in effect. Just enter the alley (Caledonia) off 15th Street—it's east of Valencia. See, just like a crack deal! Open Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, and 9am–5pm Sat–Sun.

Update on some projects around town: ~DOMO~ in Hayes Valley opens today. 5:30pm. Release the sushi. 511 Laguna St. at Hayes, 415-861-8887.

The first San Francisco location of ~UDUPI PALACE~, the South Indian restaurant moving into the Firecracker space, won't be opening until late April. 1007 1/2 Valencia St. at 22nd.

~ON THE CORNER~, the jazz café coming to the Western Addition/Nopa neighborhood, is now looking at a hopeful mid-April opening. 359 Divisadero St. at Oak.

Another project bites the dust in North Beach: the proposed retail wine shop, ~VINO DIVINO~, will not be moving into the space a couple of doors away from the former Gold Spike—the Telegraph Hill Dwellers don't want any more businesses that include alcohol. Yup, it's beginning to feel like Prohibition again over there.

Ever wonder about the legendary ~BALBOA CAFÉ~ burger? Now's your chance: they will be dishing out a free Balboa Burger to anyone who donates a pint of blood aboard Blood Center of the Pacific's (BCP) bloodmobile parked outside on Thursday, April 3, 1pm–6pm. To donate blood, one must be healthy, at least 17 years old and weigh 110 pounds or more (you hear that, tiny Marina girls?). To schedule an appointment time, please contact Emily Thrasher, e_thrasher [at] plumpjack [dot] com or 415-346-5712. Walk-in donors will also be accepted. To make an appointment online, visit www.bloodheroes.com and enter the password PlumpJack. 3199 Fillmore St. at Greenwich.

Are you aware of the ~WORLD WILDLIFE FUND'S EARTH HOUR~ taking place this Saturday, March 29, from 8pm–9pm? It's a worldwide movement to encourage everyone to turn off their non-essential lights for one hour on March 29 to raise awareness about climate change and what we can do to help. San Francisco is one of four major US cities participating in the worldwide event. Aside from the large number of businesses that will be shutting off all unnecessary power, the following restaurants have agreed to participate in Earth Hour through a variety of individual activities ranging from sustainable menus, to shutting off all unnecessary lights and turning off their exterior lights for the evening:

• B Restaurant and Bar in Oakland

• Westfield San Francisco Center Restaurant Collection (Zazil Coastal Mexican Cuisine, LarkCreekSteak, Straits, 'wichcraft)

• PlumpJack Restaurants (Jack Falstaff, MATRIXFILLMORE, PlumpJack Café, Balboa Café)

• Edible Love – Un Amour a Croquer

• Modern Tea, Tea Lounge

• Market Bar

• Chaya

• Bistro Boudin

• Ghirardelli Square



Winos: this Thursday, March 27, Raphael Knapp and Rue St. Jacques's chef Eric Lanvert have teamed up to let you tour the wines of France without the airplane ticket. They are appropriately calling the event ~LE TOUR DE FRANCE~. Here's the lineup: les huitres Point Reyes en gelée saffranée (Point Reyes oysters in a saffron gelée) with a glass of Pouilly Fumé Claude Michot; la daube de boeuf á la Provençale (Provençale style short rib), with a glass of Gigondas; la salade frisée et sont Brillat Savarin (frisée Salad with Brillat Savarin cheese) with a glass of Listrac Médoc; le soufflé au chocolat (chocolate soufflé) with a glass of Banyuls. You will also have the opportunity to purchase the featured wines at very reduced prices. $65. 1098 Jackson St. at Taylor, 415-776-2002.

A few updates in the Tenderloin dive bar-gentrification scene: first, the sketchy OSB (O'Farrell Street Bar) is now ~800 LARKIN~. Thrillist reported that there's a "30ft mahogany bar, plush leather armchairs and couches, and a new, gray-felt pool table." And a cocktail menu. Well. 800 Larkin St. at O'Farrell, 415-567-9326.

I also heard some bartenders from the Tunnel Top have taken over the previously skeevy ~KOKO'S~ in the TenderNob. I tried to swing by last Sunday night but it was closed, so no report on the décor, but it's supposed to have some flair. If you like, let some Yelpers fill ya in. 1060 Geary St. at Polk, 415-885-4788.

More booze news: ~SAN FRANCISCO COCKTAIL WEEK~ is returning, running from May 13–19. You can read an initial line-up of very cool events on the site, which will include some cocktail dinners at bacar, The Alembic, and Conduit in San Francisco, and Flora in Oakland; a discussion on Literature and Drinking Culture in San Francisco with David Wondrich; a Save the Sazerac event at Elixir, and I might, might, be co-hosting a bar crawl of some sort—stand by!

In the meantime, H of Elixir (and his new biz, Cocktail Ambassadors) is hosting his first ~MIXOLOGY 101 CLASS~ at the Bay Club tonight from 7:30pm–9pm. In this 20-person class, you'll learn some entry-level techniques, and do some shaking and stirring (Manhattans and martinis), plus muddling of mojitos, and juicing for a proper margarita. The class is open to the public, but costs $120 for club members, and $135 for non-members—tablehopper readers get the non-member fee waived, so it's only $120—just click to order here and read more on the Elixir site. I know it's last minute, so if you can't swing it, he will be doing these classes quarterly with a seasonal spin (plus some thematic changes) at all of the Western Athletic Clubs in Northern California (San Rafael, San Francisco, Redwood City, Santa Clara and Los Gatos).

Then on Thursday at Elixir, there's the ~GREAT WHISKEY DEBATE~, an event as part of H's Cocktail Club series. Join Simon Brooking, Master Ambassador for Laphroaig and Ardmore single malt scotches, as he goes head to head with Jim Beam Whiskey Professor David Mays about which is the greatest whisk(e)y on earth: bourbon or scotch. Scandal! It is $20 per person for four whiskeys (two scotches, two bourbons) and you'll get some entertainment, history, education, slideshow, Q&A, and cocktail specials. Wow, all that in one night. Things kick off after the last basketball game (should be 9:30pm-ish). Buy your ticket here. Capacity is limited to 50. And lastly, next Thursday, April 3 at Elixir, there will be a Maker's Mark tasting with Master Distiller Dave Pickerel. 3200 16th St. at Guerrero, 415-552-1633.

East Bay folks, you are lucky ducks, because ~OLIVETO'S~ first spring favas have just come in from Bolinas. Spring fava season is brief, and there's nothing like the first wave of tender beans—chef Paul Canales and many other fava lovers know only the first few pickings yield beans tender enough to serve raw, with the delicate skins still on. So swing by tonight through Thursday for fresh favas with Il Frantoio olive oil and sea salt, finished with a fresh shaving of pecorino and cracked black pepper. This first wave of favas comes from Star Route Farm on the Marin coast. (The first crops of local asparagus and English peas are also on the menu now.) Oliveto, 5655 College Ave., 510-547-5356.

I also was reading about a cool ~BUTCHER'S DINNER~ at Café Rouge this Thursday—looks delicious. $80 per person, with a menu of red meat provided by the following growers:
 Heritage Farms, Magruder Ranch, McCormack Ranch and Niman Ranch. 1782 4th St., Berkeley, 510-525-1440.

You'll be able to read up on ~O IZAKAYA LOUNGE~ in this week's fresh meat, but I wanted to make sure you sports freaks knew you can swing by tonight, March 25, for the Oakland A's and Boston Red Sox's season opener in Japan. O will broadcast the game in high definition on their seven flat-screen TVs at 6pm, and you can enjoy chef Nicolaus Balla's signature happy hour menu items and drinks from 6pm–8pm. (Stay late to watch the second game live from Tokyo.) Hotel Kabuki, 1625 Post St. at Laguna, 415-614-5431.

fresh meat: Monk's Kettle

Suds are HOT. People are embracing beer right now like it's vodka circa 2001. But no, we're in 2008, and the West Coast has caught Belgian fever, or at least a gastropub gastrointestinal bug. Beer and bites joints are popping up all over the place, but I almost can't believe how the ~MONK'S KETTLE~ in the Mission has completely blown the hell up. Talk about a runaway hit. Hopefully when the outdoor seating gets approved, there will be a little more room for people to enjoy what's on tap at this charming tavern.

What makes this place so pop-star popular? Well, the location is primo Mission real estate; the list of beers is outstanding (I could read it and taste from it for days); the décor strikes a good balance between cool and cozy; the food is approachable, made with quality ingredients, and served until late (the main menu ends at 10pm, but there's an extensive late-night menu until 1am!); the eclectic music is spot-on good; and the staff is notably friendly, pretension-free, and knowledgeable.

Adding to the list of attractive qualities, I spotted some cute guys, plus some cute chicks too—but the crowd gets a little young as the evening wears on. Am I getting old? No, I'm 36, so while I'm certainly not in cougar or Mrs. Robinson territory just yet, I was feeling a bit of an age gap around 11pm on a Thursday night. Oh wait, most people my age should be home at that time on a school night, right. I didn't get that fax.

I've been by twice midweek, and both times the place is just packed. Sardines city. And loud. I can't even imagine the scene on a weekend, and I feel bad for the servers navigating the floor. After a little while people will eventually vacate a seat at the intimate bar, or you can put your name down on the list for a table (waits average 45 minutes to an hour). But I say if you score a seat at the bar, order up and cancel your table (a beer in the hand is worth two at the table). It's crazy busy like the SPQR of the 94103. And I'm not sure when it's a good time to come by. Maybe late lunch. Good luck.

Chef Kevin Kroger uses good ingredients, with Niman products and all kinds of local and organic purveyors, like Knoll Farms and County Line produce, and Marshall's Farm honey. The pub-style menu is huge considering how small the kitchen is—not quite sure how they're doing it, but I'm tempted to suggest trimming it down a little for tighter quality control.

Vegans can tuck into a bowl of Jude's chili ($6.50), and vegetarians reportedly dig the black bean cakes ($8.75) resting on roasted corn salsa (I thought it needed a hit of acid—the lime kind, not the Timothy Leary kind). Carnivores really should make a move for the pork chop ($18), a cider-brined number with a dollop of stone ground mustard cream sauce, Brussels sprouts, and a crispy cheddar scallion potato cake (once too salty, once just right)—it's a beast of a dish for $18, a total man pleaser. I've tried the chop twice, and both times it was juicy and savory.

Depending on your appetite, you can just nosh on a buttery giant pretzel ($6.50) with a cheddar ale sauce (a little bland) and stone-ground mustard (better), and sporting a springy, juicy dough, or perhaps you'll be happy grazing a charcuterie plate ($14.50). I tried the bruschetta ($9.50)—two big slices of bread with cannellini bean puree, sautéed wild mushrooms, and white cheddar—a bit unwieldy to eat, but tasty, and beer friendly.

There's also an array of salads in the "ruffage" section (which makes me laugh), like four. The salads all read really well and interesting, but the vinaigrettes and dressings never quite hit the mark, even the simple side salad—they need to be dialed in a bit more.

The Niman burger ($10.50) is house ground, dense, and good—cooked just as we ordered it, and yay, it's served on a grilled bun! All I wanted was a pickle. Fries were okay, but on a second visit were hotter and crispy. Another time I tried the pulled pork sandwich ($11.25), with a mess factor that was on par with a sloppy Joe, so I needed to fork and knife it. I only could eat half of it… I got full, but my palate also got a little bored. The side of jicama slaw was fine, but too mild to counteract the strong BBQ sauce flavor. I wanted more chunks of good porky pork, less sauce.

This is where a refreshing beer comes in. The menu has all kinds of suggested pairings, but the capable hands of the bartenders are where you want to be. They'll give you tastes in little leprechaun-sized mini steins, absolutely precious. There are Belgians, local brews, Lambics, Saisons, Sonoma beers, German beers… it's a melee (24 draughts, and over 100 in the bottle). There's even Hitachino White Ale from Japan. Check out a PDF of the list yourself. Everything comes in proper glassware too. But don't fret, it's not like it's ALL serious—there are even some "Grampa's Beers," including Oly in a can.

The style is clever, with a number of reclaimed and repurposed items—including the dramatic back bar which I think was originally from a fireplace (I was drinking, sorry, can't remember for sure) and a fun use of formerly vintage overhead lighting. The lighting here is flattering and comfortable, I love all the wood, I say thanks for the hooks under the bar, and it's fun watching people draw and play hangman on the blackboard in the back while waiting for a table, or just kickin' it over a beer—actually, what is probably a mighty delicious beer. Cheers to owners Christian Albertson and Nat Cutler for doing such a commendable job on their first effort.

Monk's Kettle
3141 16th St.
Cross: Albion St.
(near Valencia St.)
San Francisco, CA 94103

415-865-9523
website

Mon–Fri 12pm–2am
Sat–Sun 11:30am–2am
Kitchen until 1am

Apps $5–9.50
Entrées $9.50–$18
Desserts $6.50

fresh meat: O Izakaya Lounge

I am thrilled that izakaya is becoming a household word. Well, it's not quite "mac 'n' cheese" or "taqueria" yet, but based on all the recent openings in the City, it's well on its way. ~O IZAKAYA LOUNGE~ opened in the Hotel Kabuki, taking over the former Dot Bar and Lounge space. I must admit I never quite made it to the previous business, "Lord of Balls"—I wasn't very clear on the concept, and wasn't quite sure I wanted to be (I will refrain from making any vulgar comments). Anyway, since I've been happily catching more flicks lately at the awesome Sundance Kabuki, I've been exploring Japantown and the dining options around there a bit more than usual.

Normally, I wouldn't even consider dining at a "sports lounge," and as far as I'm concerned, the seven flat screen TVs playing live sports might as well be Kryptonite, an East Coast snowstorm, and the scary banjo player from Deliverance all rolled into one. (Read: not appealing.) In the future, I'm going to have to make sure there isn't a game being broadcast that night if I'm going to want some of chef Nicolaus Balla's vittles—fellow non-sports fans, you might want to follow suit. Sports fans, however, you'll be one happy camper.

The space is comfortable and not very big, with folks hanging around the round bar, and diners either parked in the spacious booths, or the smaller tables flanking the room. It's not rowdy like my fave, Oyaji but it's partly because there are more couples dining here, or solo diners/drinkers at the bar, and not as many of the larger groups like what you'll see at other izakayas around town. The wallpaper made of a print of vintage Japanese baseball cards is super clever, but the bizarre iPod mix of pop music and other random tracks needs a little reining in.

Since it's a bar, you can order a cocktail (I don't recommend the Joie de Veev—I love açai, but in this drink's case, you might as well just drink the Veev straight), or a Sapporo (on tap, hello!), or shochu or sake—there are some good ones to choose from, but I'd like to see a couple more junmai ginjo and dai ginjos offered by the glass.

To the munchables! The hamachi sunomono ($12) is still on my mind, a delicious tangy combo with pickled fennel, black radish (it looks like it's a shaving of a mysterious truffle), enoki mushrooms marinated in ponzu, and feisty kaiware (daikon sprouts). Balla is way into pickling: he also does his own kimchee, which is the star-crossed lover/partner for the pork belly ($14) that comes sliced over the top. It's a good "crossover" kimchee for those who typically fear it: his fantastic version is made with leeks, Napa cabbage, Serrano and Thai chiles, anchovy, and garlic—don't pass this dish up.

It wouldn't be an izakaya without some agemono (fried) love. The tempura crimini mushrooms ($7) come from fabled shroomer Connie Green, and have a dark batter made with Black Butte porter. They were a touch under-salted, but I liked the side dipping dish of spicy hatcho miso. Wasn't as big a fan of the butternut squash tempura ($10), which looked like a bull's-eye, with the squash and cream cheese wrapped up in nori and deep fried, then sliced up like some maki, and served with a ponzu dip and a green tea (matcha) salt. Clever, and close, but not my preferred type of cigar.

How about some grilled meat on a stick? Can't go wrong with juicy chicken thigh yakimono ($4), the warhorse of meat, but the true star is the hamachi belly ($4), delectable with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of shichimi, that addictive Japanese pepper I like to sprinkle on too many things. Oh, and be sure to try the omochi ($3), fried rice balls with a light sweetness and toothsome texture. A veiled homage to Lord of Balls? Naw.

I'd like to come back for the lauded burger ($12) that is gaining its own fan club, or one of the yaki soba ($8) choices on a foggy night. There are also some dishes like tai snapper ($14) and iwashi (broiled sardines) ($12) that caught my eye. The duck breast ($15) was tender and nicely seasoned, and came with some diiiiivine eggplant that was pressed (there was some duck fat involved too) with a flourish of red miso. There are a fair amount of vegetarian choices too.

Additional bonuses: they validate parking for diners for three hours in the Kabuki garage (!), and the happy hour is a killer deal, and a great way to come check the place out (Sun–Thu 5pm–7pm) and enjoy some specials, like yakimono for $1.50. I wish the kitchen was open a bit later—it would be a dream late-night spot (the food is built for it), but alas, they say "oyasumi nasai" (good night) a bit early here.

O Izakaya Lounge
Hotel Kabuki
1625 Post St.
Cross: Laguna St.
San Francisco, CA 94115

415-614-5431
website

Dinner
Daily 5pm–10pm
Bar
5pm–12am

Apps $3–$12
Larger plates $12–$19
Desserts $7

the socialite: SF International Chocolate Salon

~THE SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL CHOCOLATE SALON~ returns for its second year! Salon highlights include chocolate tasting, demonstrations, chef and author talks, wine pairings, a chocolate spa, ongoing interviews by TasteTV's Chocolate Television program, and book signings of the newest International Chocolate Salon publication, The Chocolate Guide (2008 Western Edition). The Salon will also include a silent auction charity fundraiser for Holy Family Day Home, providing care and education for homeless children.

New chocolatiers to the event will include Guittard Chocolate, The Chocolate Traveler, San Francisco Toffee Company, Chuao Chocolatier, Marti Chocolatt, Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolate, Chocoholics Divine Desserts, Jade Chocolates, Patchi Le Chocolat, Ghirardelli Chocolate, Gateau et Ganache, Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe, and Schoggi. Some of these, such as Schoggi, are new to SF.

Ones returning from last year include NEWTREE Gourmet Belgian Chocolate, The TeaRoom, Coco-luxe Confections, Saratoga Chocolates, Sacred Chocolate, Cosmic Chocolate, Poco Dolce, The Xocolate Bar, Charles Chocolates, Amano Artisan Chocolate, Trader Joes, and Rushburn Toffee Company.

SF International Chocolate Salon
Sun., April 13, 2008

Fort Mason Conference Center
San Francisco, CA

website

10am–6pm

tickets at the door: $20
advance tickets: $17.50

the socialite: Passover at Perbacco

Famed author and chef, and three-time James Beard award recipient Joyce Goldstein, along with Perbacco chef Staffan Terje, will prepare a night of ~PASSOVER-INSPIRED DISHES~ from her book, Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen.

On this evening, Perbacco will serve a full kosher menu to honor the holiday, along with a selection of kosher wines selected by wine director, Mauro Cirilli, a regular contributor to The Wino. (Please note: items on Perbacco's regular menu will not be available on this night.)

Here's the evening's delicious menu:

Haroset
**
Antipasti
(served family style, choose three for the table)
Fegato di Anatra alle Uova Sode – Chopped Duck Liver, Italian Style
Spuma di Tonno al Peperoni – Tuna Paté in Roasted Peppers
Sarde in Saor – Sardines Marinated with Onion, Raisins and Pinenuts
Baccala al Pomodoro – Salt Cod poached in Tomato Sauce
Melanzane in Insalata – Grilled Eggplant
Concia – Roasted Zucchini with Mint and Vinegar
**
Primi
Brodo con Polpette Uova per Pesach – Passover Soup with Chicken Dumplings and Eggs
or
Crema di Carciofi – Artichoke Soup
***
Secondi
(choose one per person)
Spigola al Sugo di Carciofi – Seabass with a Sauce of Artichokes
Tonno Fresco con Piselli – Fresh Tuna with Spring Peas

Pollo Ezechiele – Ezekiel's Chicken with Tomatoes, Herbs and Black Olives

Rotolo di Vitello coi Colori – Veal Breast Stuffed with Peppers and an Omelet
Spalla di Montone con le Olive – Lamb Shoulder Braised with Olives

Carciofata di Trieste – Spring Vegetable Stew from Trieste (vegetarian)

Contorni for the Table
Purea di Patate e Olio – Olive Oil Potato Purée
Finocchio alla Giudia – Braised Fennel, Jewish Style
Stufato di Fave, Carciofi e Lattuga – Spring Stew of Fava Beans, Artichokes and Lettuce
***
Dolce
(served family style)
Frutta Caramellata con Zabaglione – Caramelized Fresh Fruit with Zabaglione
Pan di Spagna alle Nocciole – Passover Hazelnut Sponge Cake
Scodelline – Almond Pudding


Passover at Perbacco
Tue., April 22, 2008

Perbacco
230 California St.
San Francisco, CA 94111

415-955-0663

$49
does not include tax, tip, or wine

the starlet: March 25, 2008

Comedian, actress, and writer Judy Gold, who was in town for her show 25 Questions for a Jewish Mother, was on quite the foodie tour as well: in the past week, she had dinner at Globe, Postrio, Limon, and breakfast at Chloe's (twice) and Dottie's.

letter from the tablehopper: March 18, 2008

Thanks to all of you who got current on your tip please feedback. Meow. I get a lot of requests for suggestions on where to eat each week, a few from friends, most from total strangers, some quite confounding, but there’s nothing quite like when you need to come up with your own perfect evening. I want to share what I put together to celebrate my darling mother’s retirement from nursing this past Friday; I wanted it to be quite the epic evening to honor her 40-plus years of nursing. We started at Bix for cocktails (love the Sazeracs there) and appetizers, like their famed potato pillows with caviar and crème fraîche, a refreshing ceviche with cilantro oil and toasted corn nuts (!), the incomparable steak tartare, and crisp fried oysters. Nothing beats the white-jacketed service here, especially if you’re lucky enough to get Stu, the master of tableside flair. My family can’t wait to go back for a full jazzy dinner.

Next, we strolled over to Kokkari for our mains, which turned into a rustic family-style feast of all my favorites: the lamb’s tongues, the taramosalata and pita, grilled octopus, the pikti (a terrine of trotter and head), and of course a whole fish and the famed lamb chops. It was hard to pull ourselves away from ordering the galatboureko for dessert, but fortunately we had quite the finale awaiting us. We ambled to Rubicon, where we finished the evening sharing Nicole Krasinski’s unique and gorgeous desserts, like a palate-cleaning rhubarb sorbet with pine nuts and an elderflower meringue, and the decadent milk chocolate toffee pudding with candied Buddha’s hand and long pepper cream, plus some wonderful dessert wines. Yup, the evening was total tablehopper style, and I recommend trying the itinerary highly if you’re looking for an unconventional and special night of dining, with some much-needed walks in between.

I know St. Patrick’s Day was yesterday (how’s your head?), but in honor of the fab color green, I thought a review of Absinthe Brasserie & Bar was in order. Shall we begin? Let's.

~ Marcia

the chatterbox: March 18, 2008

~MYTH CAFÉ~ closed last week, which means we just need to continue watching Top Chef 4 on Wednesdays for Ryan Scott sightings. And ~MYTH~ the restaurant will sadly be winding to a close on Saturday, March 29th. Nathan Foot, who assumed the executive chef duties after chef Sean O’Brien’s departure, is going to head home to Boston for a while—no telling if he’s going to start something new out there, or return to SF to add to his 13-plus years here. Also heard pastry chef Nick Flores left Myth on the 15th—at press time I still hadn’t received word on where he’s at now, so stand by.

Last Thursday, ~FRISSON’S~ executive chef, Sarah Schafer, resigned and is now at Anchor and Hope, the upcoming project from the Town Hall/Salt House crew. Frisson actually closed this Saturday, a bit earlier than expected. Since the permits for the remodel are ready, Joe Hargrave and Andrew McCormack are moving ahead on the renovation. The clubby vibe will be no more (say goodbye to the DJ booth), and it will be more walk-in diner friendly. And my supposition was correct: it’s official that Sean O’Brien, the former executive chef of Myth, will be the executive chef of this new project. Too soon to tell about timing, but for now, it’s looking like late spring or summer. As for the concept, it’s also early on that too—but of course O’Brien’s style will be highlighted, and perhaps a few of his signature dishes will come with. There will also be a big wine program, with many available by the glass. Look for more info in coming weeks. 244 Jackson St. at Front.

So, back to ~ANCHOR AND HOPE~. This third project from the Rosenthals and Doug Washington is moving right along, in fact, it might even be open in three or four weeks. Perhaps some fish and chips are what we’ll need on April 15 to feel better. Anyway. Sarah Schafer (a Boston native) will be running the kitchen at this upscale East Coast seafood shack/fish house, serving some classics like oysters and other shellfish, and of course a lobster roll (Mitchell Rosenthal was in Maine for a month tasting around, so you know this lobster roll is gonna rock); there will be some non-traditional dishes too, perhaps some eel, or uni. The space is like a big barn, but in a cool alley, with wood floors, and rustic tables from Jeffrey Ruiz, a talented artisan furniture maker and craftsman from Berkeley. There will be seats for 60–80, a communal table, and counter seating as well. Lunch and dinner will be served daily. 83 Minna St. at First.

My paisano pal, Francesco D’Ippolito, just opened his new restaurant in the Castro, ~POESIA~. This upstairs little nook has rustic and affordable Italian dishes, with many that are Calabresi in origin (lots of family recipes are featured). Items on the menu range from the ever-popular arancini (fried balls of arborio rice and smoked mozzarella, $6) to burrata ($9.50), and pastas like pasta al forno with meatballs and soppressata (a Gagliardi family classic—I’ll have to see how this compares!), and fusilli al ragu di maiale (pork rib ragu), both $12. Mains (which will rotate often) include chicken, a New York steak with a wine reduction made from Ciro, a hearty Calabrese red, and baccalà with pancetta and potato, all $17–$22. Don’t forget there’s a full bar too. Dinner will be served nightly from 5:30pm–11pm, and even later on Fri–Sat, with weekend brunch starting in a couple weeks. 4072 18th St. at Castro, 415-252-9325.

While the Castro gets some Southern Italian amore, a couple Northern Italian projects are percolating in the Mission. First, Last Supper Club is transforming into ~BERETTA~, a late-night pizzeria (13 kinds!) and restaurant with a menu of over 22 antipasti, like a variety of bruschette, salumi, salads, and vegetable dishes, plus four risottos, made with local, seasonal, and sustainable ingredients when possible. Owner Ruggero Gadaldi (Pesce, Antica Trattoria) is bringing on Thad Vogler to do the bar program, Jeff Meisel to do the wine list, Craig Berold is the GM (formerly of bacar), and Deborah Blum is overseeing operations—she is also a partner in the project, along with Adriano Paganini (of Pasta Pomodoro, now just Pomodoro). The downstairs will have multiple communal tables, with seating for 35, and 70 upstairs. The rustic look will feature chandeliers, concrete floors, and hand-painted murals—sounds different. The pizza oven is a gas wood stone pizza oven—it can get to a high temperature, but is ultimately cleaner for the air. Beretta is slated to open next Friday, March 28th. Open daily 5:30pm–12am. 1199 Valencia St. at 22nd, 415-695-1199.

Next up, ~SPECCHIO~ will be opening in May in the former Blue Room Gallery space, just next to Cha Cha Cha. The owner, Gino Assaf, is also behind North Beach’s Ristorante Gondola—he was born in Jordan, but grew up in Venice. He plans to open the 150-seat restaurant (which includes a mezzanine), for lunch and dinner daily, with later hours on the weekend. Look for modern Italian dishes hailing from the north. We were reminiscing over some Venetian favorites (I lived there for a year, 16 long years ago) so let’s see what ends up on the menu. He was considering pappardelle with wild boar ragu, plus homemade ravioli, risotto al nero di seppia (a delicious seafood risotto with squid ink), roasted rabbit and polenta, and I put a vote in for risi e bisi. 2331 Mission St. at 20th.

Here’s more on the project I mentioned a couple weeks ago: ~JACKIE'S VINOTECA & CAFÉ~, a 22-seat cafe in the former Zen City Records space, opened on Sunday. It is providing North Mission neighbors a place for smoothies, organic coffee and foods, like a variety of sandwiches and salads. The vinoteca part of the name will kick in when they get their beer and wine license next week—they’ll be serving Italian, Argentinean, Chilean, and California wines. In case you’re looking for Jackie, there isn’t one—the name is a loose amalgam of the two owners, Jasmine and Patrick. Open 7am–8pm daily. 105 Valencia St. at McCoppin, 415-864-5225.

More openings around town: the moving target that is ~CHEZ PAPA RESTO’S~ opening has now been set for Tuesday, March 25, when it will open for dinner. According to the site, it will open for lunch April 1. No joke. 414 Jessie St. at 5th, 415-546-4134.

~DOMO~ in Hayes Valley is also slated to open on the 25th, one week later than recently planned. 511 Laguna St. at Hayes, 415-861-8887.

Oh, and ~CANDYBAR~ hit some snags, and is now planning its opening for this coming weekend—stand by. 1335 Fulton St. Ste 101 at Divisadero, 415-673-7078.

~MOOSE’S~ in North Beach recently underwent a big remodel, but now it’s becoming something else entirely. Joseph Manzare (Globe, Tres Agaves, Pescheria, Zuppa) and his biz partner Eddie Maiello have bought the North Beach landmark, and are transforming it into their dream East Coast-style Italian restaurant, ~JOEY & EDDIE’S~. They’ve had the concept brewing for a while—it was originally going to open in Dogpatch, then it didn’t work out so there was another potential location, but now it looks like they are finally going to call North Beach home. Seems native New Yorkers Joseph and Eddie got tired of pining for their favorites at Carmine’s and Dominick’s back east, so look for old school classics like pastas with red or white sauce, stuffed artichokes, shrimp scampi, spaghetti and meatballs, and veal saltimbocca. In fact, a group of folks in the project are heading to Dominick’s and Carmine’s in April on a research trip—I’m imagining a culinary Rat Pack. Since Manzare recently won the Boss of the Sauce competition, you can bet the pastas will be a hit. The goal is low prices, but more food—and to create a place where you can eat with your family but not go broke doing it. While the actual launch of the new name and concept won’t happen until the end of April or beginning of May, Manzare is ramping up and will be executing the menu; Travis Flood, the executive chef of Moose’s, is having his last night of service tonight—he’s then heading to Chicago to work with Laurent Gras for a while on his new project, L.20. There will definitely be a big party to honor the Mooses and salute the closing of the restaurant in a proper fashion. Look for dinner and brunch to start; no mention of lunch at the moment. 1652 Stockton St. at Union, 415-989-7800.

Some chef shuffling in the Haight: ~THE ALEMBIC~ has a new pair of co-executive chefs, Jordan Grosser (currently chef de cuisine of Postrio) and Ted Fleury (of the former Winterland). Grosser is scaling back from his time at Postrio, and should be fully engaged with the Alembic kitchen at some point in April. Look for some small plates with clear flavors and an experimental and playful approach—new tryouts are rotating on the blackboard, but a few that have made it to the menu include a seasonal salad of Dungeness crab with blood orange, and a miso-glazed black cod with breakfast radish and chili oil (both $10). Owner Dave McLean says the food is rockin’, even though it’s still in development. Jenna Hodges, another former Winterland alum who has been working with Boris Portnoy at Campton Place, will be doing pastry and savory at both Alembic and Magnolia. 1725 Haight St. at Cole, 415-666-0822.

~MAGNOLIA~ also has a new chef, Brandon Jew, who was most recently at Pizzetta 211 for the last six months. Known as Pizzetta 211's Monday night special and sausage guy, his background also includes Zuni and Quince. He will be integrating more charcuterie and offal on the menu, and is beginning at Magnolia in the next week or so. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic, 415-864-PINT.

I know this time of year is tough (a few lucky ducks get tax returns, but many suffer the woes of paying Uncle Sam, “no uncle of mine,” as someone I know used to say). But ya gotta eat! So I say save yourself some dough when dining out with ~COZMOCARDS~! (With a CozmoCard, spend $50, and you get $15 off your bill.) I’ve been using my 2008 deck, with restaurants like Café Claude, Foreign Cinema, and Metro Kathmandu in there—52 restaurants in all. The tablehopper discount continues: readers get 10% off the $30 price—just type "tablehopper" into the order form for the discount! Presto!

I got a tip from a reader that ~CAFÉ AKELARRE~, the corner cafe that recently took over Café Acoustic along Octavia Boulevard, serves awesome arepas, Colombian coffee, and has fun live music nights. The free Wi-Fi also continues. 210 Octavia St. at Page, 415-861-4599.

In case you’re wondering where to find ~SCOTT HOWARD~, he has been hired as Chef Exécutif at Left Bank Brasserie in Larkspur, working with chef/owner Roland Passot and Directeur des Cuisines, Chef Joel Guillon.

And in the “closed but not closed closed” department, ~JEANNE D'ARC~ in the Cornell Hotel will be closed from now until April 8 for their annual three-week vacation. 715 Bush St. at Powell, 415-421-3154.

And ~THAILAND RESTAURANT~ on Castro is closed until March 22, it seems for some vacation as well. 438A Castro St. at 18th, 415-863-6868.

Chocoholics, you now have one more destination to add to your list: ~SCHOGGI–IMPORTED SWISS CHOCOLATES~ officially opens its doors on Yerba Buena Lane on Thursday, March 27th. Think luxury. And Swiss chocolates, handmade by a small producer in Bern from 100-year-old recipes, made with Swiss milk. Here’s more from the press release: “It will be the first true Swiss confiserie in San Francisco, with more than 60 varieties of chocolate pralines and truffles, as well as typical Swiss petite pastries, Luxemburgerli (French macarons), pate de fruits, and European-style coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. Schoggi’s collection includes traditional milk and dark chocolates, as well as chocolates sporting more exotic flavors such as green tea, ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Some highlights are the popular Signature Caramel, liquid caramel in a chocolate cup; the Mandarin, a praline containing a pearl of crystallized sugar and mandarin liqueur; and the Classic Swiss Truffles, which are more buttery and rich than contemporary truffles.” It takes its name from the Swiss-German nickname for chocolate. It will be open daily 10am–6pm. 87 Yerba Buena Lane at Mission, 415-243-4444.

I was in the Mission this weekend and saw the cute colorful benches and tables of ~LOLO~ out on the sidewalk—they have started serving brunch! And they’re handily on the sunny side of the street. Some brunchy menu items include pulled oxtail with Cuaresmeño chile, scrambled eggs, and scallions in a tortilla ($6); two eggs baked with chive cream, sautéed chard and kale, with roasted fennel and Maui onions ($7); two eggs baked with Spanish chorizo, sliced potatoes, Maui onions and cheddar ($8), plus some other dishes, like salads, all around $9. Oh yes, and the famed shrimp tacos in jicama. An easy place to rise and shine. Brunch Sat–Sun 11am–3pm. 3234 22nd St. at Bartlett, 415-643-5656.

Another change in brunch headquarters: ~ROSE’S CAFÉ~ in Cow Hollow has hired a new chef de cuisine, Steven Lucas, who will start on March 28th. Most recently he was at Chef's Best Inc. in San Francisco and Whole Foods in Berkeley. Looks like he also held positions at Enoteca Mastro Restaurant in Albany, Ristorante Ecco in SF, Cafe Karina and K2 Cafe in Santa Cruz, and Phoenix Pastificio in Berkeley. 2298 Union St. at Steiner, 415-775-2200.

Since we’re on brunch, I have some last-minute additions to the ~EASTER BRUNCH~ scene, on Sunday March 23rd, and beyond:

~BARAKA~ is hosting Sunday Easter brunch from 10am–2pm, with a la carte brunch items, like house-cured salmon gravlax, wild mushroom omelet, beef cheek hash with poached eggs, French toast, lobster and scrambled eggs, and lamb. 288 Connecticut St. at 18th, 415-255-0370.

~1300 ON FILLMORE~ is starting Sunday brunch service on Easter, 10:30am–2:30pm every Sunday. Dishes reflect chef David Lawrence’s southern-influenced palate, and include Marty’s Hang Town Fry, an omelet with fried oysters and bacon; eggs any style, served with ham-hock hash or with creamy grits; and a cinnamon brioche French toast, among other items. 1300 Fillmore St. at Eddy, 415-771-7100.

~LUCE~ at the InterContinental is offering a prix-fixe lunch (11am–2:30pm) and dinner (starts at 5pm) with traditional dishes like baby spring lamb with flageolet and spicy jus and white asparagus bisque. Lunch is $45/person and dinner is $65. 888 Howard St. at 5th, 415-616-6566.

For those of you curious about what’s cookin’ at ~CAV WINE BAR & KITCHEN~ since reading my review last week, I wanted to let you know they are hosting a tasting menu to benefit the Breast Cancer Emergency Fund. Since the beginning of the month, a flight of wines made by female winemakers has been available with ten percent of the proceeds going to the BCEF. On Wednesday, March 19th, executive chef Michael Lamina is creating a ‘Spring is Almost Here’ five-course tasting menu that will also benefit the BCEF. 1666 Market St. at Gough, 415-437-1770.

For those who like to mix lit with libations, ~CAFE ZOETROPE~ is celebrating the special spring edition of All-Story (Francis Coppola's award-winning art and literary magazine) with complimentary wine tasting and appetizers on Tuesday, March 25th, from 6pm–8pm. No reservations are required and admission is free. 916 Kearny St. at Columbus, 415-291-1700.

Couldn’t make it to Pigs and Pinot in Healdsburg last week? The molto carino ristorante ~LA CICCIA~ is hosting a piggy dinner party of their own on Monday, March 24th. The menu includes La Ciccia's salumi served with homemade pickled vegetables, Sardinian semolina gnochetti served with pork meat ragout, roasted suckling pig served with Sardinian-style raw vegetables, and ricotta cake served with Sardinian honey. Plus wonderful wines, natch. $70 per person, plus tax and tip. Please call early for reservation. Dinner starts at 7pm. 291 30th St. at Church, 415-550-8114.

If sweets are more your thing, ~MASA’S~ is hosting an event next Monday, March 24th as well: 25 Years of Desserts, benefiting Project Open Hand. Former executive pastry chef Keith Jeanminette, who was a part of the Masa's history for nearly 20 of those years, will be returning to share some of his famous recipes and stories from his time at Masa's. The event will feature desserts and mignardise selections, as well as wine pairings selected by Master Sommelier Alan Murray. 5:30pm–8pm. Suggested donation of $25. RSVP and information: 415-989-7154. 648 Bush St. at Stockton.

Mark your calendar for the launch party to celebrate issue three of ~MEATPAPER~ on Sunday, March 30th! The event will be at Serpentine in Dogpatch, and there will be bevvies from Gosling’s Rum, International Vineyards, and Trumer Brauerei, plus meaty and non-meaty snacks from Serpentine, Perbacco, Leif Hedendal vegetarian cuisine, and Prather Ranch, among others. The cost is $10–$15 (sliding scale). 6pm–9pm. Serpentine, 2495 Third St. at 22nd, 415-252-2000.

And in the East Bay, ~MONO RESTAURANT~ opened for lunch last week (its soft opening) in the Jack London Square area of Oakland, and will be opening for dinner on Wednesday, April 2nd. This industrial but stylish space has a horseshoe-shaped bar, cement pillars, and a custom fabricated wall treatment composed of honeycomb shapes, backlit with LED lighting; there is also a patio area. The lunch menu includes house-made soups, sandwiches, salads, and box-lunch specials available for eat-in or take away via a sidewalk take-out window. Dinner service will feature a globally inspired and seasonally changing small plates menu sourced from local purveyors. There will be charcuterie, a raw oyster bar, cheeses, crudos, plus dishes like mussels and clams with chorizo, Meyer lemon risotto, and pan-seared Kurobuta pork loin. The wine list will focus on boutique producers and sparkling wines, with a hefty number of half bottles. In case you were wondering about the name, Mono means monkey in Spanish, and is executive chef/co-owner (and husband) Todd Wilson’s nickname for his wife, general manager/co-owner, Eloisa Castillo. Wilson was the former chef de cuisine at Asia SF and The Public, and Eloisa Castillo worked at Myth and Cortez. Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner (soon) on Wed, Thurs, Sun from 5:30pm– 9:30pm, Fri–Sat 5:30pm–10:30pm. Brunch and breakfast to come. 247 4th St. at Alice, Oakland, 510-834-0260.

the regular: Absinthe Brasserie & Bar

©2006frankenyimages.com

Like a second dining room (or home bar) to many folks around town, ~ABSINTHE BRASSERIE & BAR~ has been holding down the corner of Gough and Hayes for quite some time. Like its neighbor, Jardinière, it’s been a staple for the opera-symphony-ballet crowd, a destination for before or after a performance for years. It’s cocktail HQ, mixing some of the finest drinks in the city before people even had a glimmer of understanding that there’s much much more to life than cosmos or mojitos. And man, as of January of 2008, the joint has ten years under its belt.

I’ve come by over the years for bites here and there, like brunch (j’adore the corned beef hash and poached eggs), oysters and fries on a variety of dates, the onion soup has helped fix a bad day, a late-night burger has saved my tipsy ass, and I’ve loved some meals outside on the spacious sidewalk. But to be totally frank, based on the last few lunches I had a year or so ago, I didn’t quite feel like gearing up for the expense of dinner—the food didn’t feel cohesive, a little sloppy. Until the moment I heard they hired Jamie Lauren as executive chef. Then I wanted some dinner. Kind of like being sponge-worthy, I’d definitely say she’s splurge-worthy.

I first encountered Lauren’s exotically charged-but-straightforward cooking at Levende, and was excited for her foray into Indian-inspired fare for the Prana (at Temple) project, which was later put on hold. She’s an innovative chef, and when she landed at Absinthe, I wondered how her style would jive with the menu, loaded with classics people will throw a fit over if they’re fussed with. Well, she’s done it, integrating her inspired touch, creating modern brasserie fare with farmers’ market savoir-faire. Let’s just say if you haven’t been by for dinner for a while, then welcome back Kotter!

While you’re mulling over the menu or parked at the bar, order the spicy fried chickpeas ($3.75), crunchy little demons with a hit of spices and herbs. Brilliant bar snack. The scallop crudo ($14) was one of my fave dishes, three lovely coins of fresh scallop, sprinkled with rosemary sea salt, and the tang of lemon agrumato (an olive oil that is crushed and made with whole lemon), caviar, and micro herbs. Refreshing, yet decadent. Of course you can also do the famed oysters—there are usually five to choose from, at $3 a pop.

Naturalment, there’s the French onion soup, but if you’re up for some change, Lauren has a way with soups—you can tell she’s really into them. One night it was a smooth and satisfying celery root with ham hock, Pink Lady apple, fried sage, and a tickle from some Buddha’s Hand citron oil.

There are some larger plates you can share, like a classic frisee salad ($14), with chunks of smoky Benton’s bacon, and a wicked fried duck egg draped on top, promising extra yolky indulgence. There’s also the warm duck confit salad ($16). I know, whoa, those prices veer on the spendy; to be clear, a meal here is more on the higher end of moderate. But in this dish you get a fully meaty leg and thigh, and wait until you taste the ingredients, the duck with its dreamy fat and skin combo that is good in the way Peking duck is good, so good, but oh so bad, plus gorgeous fresh chicories and a tangy Dijon vinaigrette. Like a L’Oreal girl, it’s worth it.

My dining partner tried the shellfish stew ($28), with chunks of house-made chorizo, and a satisfying buttery broth with Chimay Blanc (watch it, you’ll empty the bread basket), plus Lacinato kale, an inspired addition, and garbanzo beans. The seafood included meaty Manila clams, white gulf prawns with the head on, and green-lipped New Zealand mussels, all fantastically fresh and cooked just right.

The hand’s-down crowd pleaser is the pork confit ($24), the equivalent of French carnitas, a shoulder cooked in duck fat for four hours and then crisped up in the pan, served with braised cabbage, Serrano ham, and crispy pan-fried spätzle. Yeah, it reads like an exercise in cholesterol cruelty. And even though it’s $24, the portion is enormous, totally Manwich size. In fact, I made some wicked tacos for lunch the next day with the leftovers. Heh. Viva French carnitas!

The menu isn’t a total meat-fest—vegetarians could do the melted leek flatbread ($15), or a seasonal risotto with wild mushrooms and rainbow chard ($25), and there are all kinds of vegetable sides and salads—Lauren is a big one on what’s fresh and in season.

The cheese course here is almost a must, or you can merge cheese and dessert and do the apple and Epoisses tart ($8), with calvados ice cream and cider caramel. Yeah, dude. The hazelnut cake ($8) with Blue Bottle Coffee ice cream was also good, but an Epoisses tart, come on, how could it even try to compete?

Service here is almost always on point—even while briefly waiting near the host stand for my friend, I was approached three times by different people, asked if there was anything I needed. The masterful cocktails here, heck, they need no introduction. And good for them for keeping many of them at $9. (Well, for now.) I will say what’s happening in the kitchen under Lauren’s vision and the magic that continues at the bar definitely jive—there’s a compelling play of elements and ingredients going on.

I recommend this place for a date that’s romantic but not too-too, a late-night bite or even a late afternoon meal, and it’s a charming choice for out-of-towners who want to take in a little city vibe—there’s always a nicely eclectic crowd here, and the people-watching from the big windows or along the sidewalk is some of the city’s best.

Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
398 Hayes St.
Cross: Gough St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

415-551-1590
website

Lunch
Tue–Fri 11:30am–2pm 


Dinner
Tue–Sat 5pm–10pm
Sun 5pm–10pm 


Brunch
Sat–Sun 11am–3pm 


Cafe Menu
Tue–Sat until 12am, Sun until 10pm

Apps $8–18
Entrées $24–$32
Desserts $8

the wino: Tony Poer on Vacqueyras

Tony Poer has been in and around the wine business since college. He got his start working as a garçon at Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris, France in the early 90s. He then moved to San Francisco to pursue a retail and restaurant wine career. He has held wine-buying positions at such establishments as Silks at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Hayes & Vine Wine Bar, and the fondly remembered (by some, anyway) Flying Saucer. Tony and his family live in downtown Napa. He is the National Sales Manager for Meyer Family Cellars in Mendocino County.

Vacqueyras, the Cure for Complacency

Last fall, a friend of mine, a sommelier in the Midwest, asked me to name my favorite wine. What a question! It depends which way the breeze is blowing. At that moment, near Lake Michigan, it was probably blowing south, though not yet from the arctic. “Vacqueyras,” I replied.

Opaque and spicy, Vacqueyras is usually mentioned alongside the more famous wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. If pressed, I’d say this trio of neighboring appellations in the southern Rhône Valley constitutes my “favorite” category of wines. I find Vacqueyras particularly delicious. Two standouts are Château de Montmirail and Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, both distributed around the Bay Area. They’re extremely fine examples of what can be done with the grenache variety in the right environment.

Beaune Imports in Berkeley has imported Montmirail since the early 90s. The ’05 Cuvée de l’Ermite, tasted for this article, is an atypical blend of 50% each grenache and syrah (the varieties mourvèdre and cinsaut are also allowed and frequently used in Vacqueyras). 2005 was an exceptional vintage in the Rhône, and l’Ermite seems to have it all: a great balance of fruit, tannin, alcohol, and acidity. Like most fine Vacqueyras, it starts out fruity, though not at all jammy, and then turns smoky-gamey with air. It is in the end a fantastic food wine.

Dan Dawson, owner of Back Room Wines in Napa and my local Vacqueyras purveyor, is a chef at heart. He likes it with a couple of birds readily available and skillfully roasted in restaurants all over northern California: chicken and squab, both with thyme and wild mushrooms.

Another guy who might be cooking more if he were working less, Nopa’s sommelier Chris Deegan told me, “L’Ermite’s stone and herb flavors remind me of a dish I would want to cook.” He suffers through it instead with one of his favorites from the Nopa menu: flatbread with spicy sausage, caramelized onions, and Gruyère cheese. “Montmirail,” he added, “does a great job of highlighting the multiple flavors in food.”

Christie DuFault, the sommelier at Quince Restaurant whose abilities to pair and communicate food and wine leave my head spinning, is a huge Vacqueyras fan. She’s carried both Montmirail and le Sang des Cailloux on Quince’s wine list. While she finds Montmirail’s versions “dense and dark with amazing depth of flavor,” Christie confessed to me that “le Sang is especially wild or sauvage – it reminds me of fun times in Provençal fields.” Hmm.

Compared to l’Ermite, the ’05 le Sang des Cailloux Vacqueyras is, indeed, a wild wine. It’s about 70% grenache, with the balance syrah, mourvèdre, and cinsaut. Where l’Ermite is tamer and smokier, le Sang is heady, rich, and a bit stinky, with complex aromas of black and green olives, barnyard, and blackberries. Tasting it over two days, I noticed the “animal” aromas dissipated with aeration, but the ripe stone fruit flavors seemed to gather strength. Although it’s fairly potent stuff, at 14% alcohol (the same as the Montmirail), le Sang registers about 2.5% less booze than many Napa Valley cabernets. Er, I mean zinfandels.

“The wines of Vacqueyras fit effortlessly on our wine list and with our menu," my old friend Sean Diggins, wine-buyer for Café Claude, recently told me. “They make a perfect fit with the cuisine we usually think of as classic bistro fare.” He added that, though the prices for Vacqueyras have crept up in recent years, they can still be found at “bistro prices.”

It’s an opinion shared by Graham Blackmore, general manager of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant in Berkeley, who imports le Sang des Cailloux. It cost twelve bucks in the mid-90s, but it only hovers around $30 today, and with a free-falling dollar at that. It has, in my opinion, little competition in its price-quality category. Graham calls le Sang des Cailloux “an antidote to complacency.”

So, here’s to a rebound in our currency against the mighty euro, and to the ongoing availability of Vacqueyras, one of France’s least complacent wines and one of my favorites, whichever way the breeze is blowing.

the socialite: Southern Style at La Cocina

Check out this event announcement from the fab folks at La Cocina. I took a tamale-making class with them a few months ago, loved it, and can only imagine how good this one will be! This class is ~SOUTHERN STYLE: GUMBO, PECAN PIE AND A HEALTHY LOOK AT OLD HABITS~. Here’s more:

“We’re looking at Southern classics in a new light, focusing on preparing dishes with a light touch and a focus on local, organic ingredients. Hear about the history of southern cuisine while you learn how to make gumbo from the bottom up and finish your meal with a sweet ending.

“La Cocina is proud to present our first cooking class of 2008, Gumbo, Pecan Pie and a Healthy Look at Old Habits with Chef Dionne Knox. Have you ever wanted to make the food that you've dreamed about, and not feel guilty afterwards? Dionne, owner of Zella's Soulful Kitchen, has mastered her grandmother's recipes, modernized them from her own healthy perspective, and now she's bringing them to you.

“Join La Cocina, and 20 other classmates, as we go through the basics of making a healthy, and incredibly delicious, gumbo from scratch. Participants will build their gumbo from the bottom up, make their own pecan pies and then join the chef and La Cocina staff for a beautiful dinner to enjoy the fruits (and gumbo) of their labor.”

The Chef
Dionne Knox, Zella's Soulful Kitchen: Dionne began at La Cocina with a dream to cook the food her grandmother had cooked with a modern twist. Last year, she took over at Corner's Cafe in Youth Uprising in East Oakland. A year later and she's learned the industry inside and out, turned the cafe around, and now she's ready to share that knowledge with the world.

The Drinks
La Cocina family members Duggan McDonnell from Cantina and Courtney Cochran from Hip Tastes provide their recommendations for the pairings to fly us through this lovely meal. Think Southern Comfort (before it was a brand! when it actually meant comfort, in a Southern way) like mint juleps with a San Francisco twist, and modern wines to pair with the deep flavors of gumbo.

The Dinner
Nothing tastes as good as the food your hands have touched. We will sit down to a meal of fresh-baked cornbread, your gumbo, several Southern sides, and a dessert of pecan pie.

Southern Style
Wed., Mar. 26, 2008

La Cocina
2948 Folsom St.
Cross: 25th St.
SF, CA 94110

415-824-2729

website

6:30pm

$100
(a portion is tax-deductible)

tickets

the socialite: Taste of the Nation

~SHARE OUR STRENGTH'S TASTE OF THE NATION SAN FRANCISCO~ is returning to Acme Chophouse this April. It’s the 20th anniversary of Share Our Strength, one of the nation's premiere anti-hunger charities.

It’s quite the line-up, goodness. I went last year and couldn’t believe how many chefs were there. The chefs for this year’s sit-down multi-course dinner include SF’s own Traci Des Jardins (Acme Chophouse, Jardinière, Mijita), Michael Symon (Cleveland's Lola, Lolita), Chris Cosentino (Incanto), and Gavin Kaysen (NYC's Café Boulud)—yup, Traci des Jardins has gathered her former competitors from The Next Iron Chef!

Preparing the dessert course again this year is Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake and Orson. Host chef Thom Fox has graciously opened the doors to his Acme Chophouse kitchen again, and Tyler Florence returns as Master of Ceremonies.

Kicking off the event will be a hors d'oeuvres reception featuring an array of the Bay Area's best chefs & restaurants:
- Nate Appleman, A16/SPQR

- Stuart Brioza, Rubicon

- Paul Arenstam, Americano at the Hotel Vitale

- Jamie Lauren, Absinthe

- Michael Miller, Trevese

- Mark Sullivan, Spruce

- Jason Tallent, Globe

- Scott Youkilis, Maverick



Also, just added to this event is a wine program led by some of the country's most illustrious sommeliers:

- Eugenio Jardim (Jardiniere)

- Christie Dufault (Quince)

- Paul Einbund (Coi)

- Shelley Lindgren (A16/SPQR), 

- John Mark (Citizen Cake)

- Larry Stone (Rubicon Estate)


Emcees: Tyler Florence and Scott Feldman

Bid on unmatched food wine experiences in exciting silent and live auctions.

Best of all, fight hunger in San Francisco and throughout the US with your generous contribution. 100% of your ticket purchase goes directly to Share Our Strength. Space is limited, so buy your ticket today! Share Our Strength is one of the nation's leading organizations working to end childhood hunger in America.

Taste of the Nation
Sun., April 6, 2008

Acme Chophouse
24 Willie Mays Plaza
at AT&T Park
San Francisco, CA

1-877-26-TASTE
website

6:30pm hors d'oeuvres
7:30pm dinner

$250 general admission

$300 VIP (includes exclusive chefs meet & greet reception and early entrance)

the starlet: March 18, 2008

Gus Van Sant was at Nob Hill Café on Friday while being interviewed by Out Magazine.

Baron Davis was spotted at Burger Meister on Columbus, and according to the tipster, “Based on the illegally parked S600 Mercedes, looked like takeout was in order.”

And my new favorite man-about-town, MC Hammer pulled up to eat at Boulevard in his H2 last week.

letter from the tablehopper: March 11, 2008

Well, buon giorno. Last night I actually left my laptop for a few hours so I could be a judge with GraceAnn Walden and Jessica Battilana of 7x7 at the Battle of the Chefs at Macy's Cellar. It's a fun event, but as a judge, you're in a tough spot, especially when the competition is between rockin' chefs like Mark Denham of Laiola and Mark Sullivan of Spruce. It was "Battle Chorizo," and Sullivan ended up winning by two points. Kudos to both of them on their fab dishes they put together in 45 minutes—the flavors made me want to return to both restaurants, like, now. The tickets for the next Battle go on sale March 24.

This Saturday I headed up to Petaluma with my dad for the Artisan Cheese Festival—we caught a couple demos and a presentation from the ladies of Cowgirl Creamery. Speaking of ladies… Guys, if you're single and looking for chicks, whether you're a young buck or a silver fox, go to a cheese festival. Seriously. The place was crawling with chicas.

Since we're talking about men, women, and hooking up, be sure to take a look in the chatterbox for a special (and rather racy) giveaway this week. It's also time sensitive, so don't delay!

Oh, and just a friendly little reminder to you folks who have tapped me for a tip please request in the past: if you've already dined out, can you please respond and let me know how it went? There are a bunch of folks who have never responded (you know who you are, ahem), so that means you can't use the service again. Even if you didn't end up using my recommendation, that's totally cool—just let me know!

Cheers my dears,
~ Marcia (rhymes with Garcia)

the chatterbox: March 11, 2008

I followed up with ~DENNIS LEARY OF CANTEEN~ on my little teaser from a couple months back about the new project he has brewing. Brewing is about right: let's just say mornings and baked goods and take-out are involved. And it will be another tiny location, this time in the Financial District. He just signed the lease, so stand by for more details soon.

Thierry Clement, formerly the executive chef of Fringale, opened his own project ~L'ARDOISE~ last Thursday. It's a 38-seat bistro in the old Los Flamingos space, and designer-about-town Michael Brennan helped design it. The petite menu will have dishes rotating on and off the blackboard (that's what the name means), but for now, some dishes in the mix are seafood raviole, a few salads, charcuterie, barramundi, hanger steak and frites, and osso buco. Duck confit is coming, oui. Open Tue-Sun for dinner, 5:30pm–10pm. 151 Noe St. at Henry, 415-437-2600.

Just so you know, the other Frenchie restaurant, ~CHEZ PAPA RESTO~ will not be opening next Monday, the 17th, as originally hoped. Who knows when it will be ready to open—it's like making wine over there. 414 Jessie St. at 5th St., 415-546-4134.

There's been some chef turnover at ~SUPPERCLUB~—the new chef is Guus Wickenhagen, who was most recently the executive chef at Supperclub Amsterdam (since 2001). He arrived in San Francisco about a month ago and has taken over the chef reins in the past week or so. He's reportedly got quite the creative flair. 657 Harrison St. at 2nd St., 415-348-0900.

Then over at ~MECCA~, they have a new executive chef, Moises Sikaffy, plus a new general manager and wine director, Ginny E. Brown. Most recently, Sikaffy served as executive chef for Beach Chalet and Park Chalet Restaurants, but the Mediterranean chef's background also includes Arcadia, San Jose; One Market Restaurant; Moose's; Restaurant LULU; and Cantina Barbagianni in Florence. A variety of oysters will continue to be on offer, plus some light starters and salads, and most mains are around $25 (here's a link to his new menu here). 2029 Market St. at Church, 415-621-7000.

There is also a new chef at ~COTE SUD~, Pierre Smets, who has been working the past 10 years at Christophe restaurant in Marin. He has added a super-affordable early-bird menu, available every day from 5:30pm–7pm for $21, which features a choice from three different appetizers, main courses, and desserts; the selection will change every two weeks. Smets will also head the new catering department of Cote Sud. 4238 18th St. at Collingwood, 415-255-6565.

Ok, so let's do this. To the scandal! Last year I received a tip please request for a rather blush-inducing kind of "holiday" that's a little below-the-radar (actually, below the belt is more like it); the reader was wondering where to go for ~STEAK AND BJ DAY~. It makes me laugh to no end. Still. (I know, snicker snicker, this is all rather inappropriate, sorry if you are offended, but I never said this column was about being squeaky clean.) So the idea is that women get Valentine's Day, therefore the guys want to make March 14 all about them. Google away, you can read all about it.

I figured what the hell, let's do a giveaway! And no, I am not giving away an hour with someone named Krystal—you're on your own for that part. I am giving away a variety of prizes, however. First, for the ladies (or the lady in your life), I have three copies of the book The Meat Club Cookbook: For Gals Who Love Their Meat, which is chock-full of beefy/lambie/piggy recipes, plus tips on buying meat from the butcher, and other useful meaty info.

The grand-prize winner gets an $80 gift certificate to Bobo's on Lombard, where you can eat one of the finer examples of steak in the city: 100% USDA Prime dry-aged steak for four–six weeks, to be exact. (The certificate excludes alcoholic beverages and gratuity, but there is complimentary valet parking, woo hoo!) Bobo's is famous for their bone-in filet mignon—people even call to reserve this cut in advance. I have never been a big fan of the red-and-black circus-like décor, and if it's still there, don't let the namesake clown hanging above the door freak you out. But the steak (or as they call it, "The Steak") is truly transcendent here, and the house-made burrata is a tasty treat too. 1450 Lombard St. at Franklin, 415-441-8880.

So, how do you enter to win? Just forward this newsletter to one person (or more, thanks!) and cc luckyme [at] tablehopper [dot] com when you send it to your peeps—it's best if you explain why you're emailing it to them, and what tablehopper is. I promise I won't be collecting your friends' emails, those will stay private—I just need to keep track that you forwarded it to some folks. The deadline to enter is by 10am, this Wednesday, March 12. I will be randomly drawing the winners and will email you ASAP to let you know you've won. Good luck! And if you don't win a book, you have two weeks to get The Meat Club for 20% off from our buddies at Green Apple Books.

Just in case you want additional suggestions for where to score some steak around town, here are a few idears:

1-LarkCreekSteak—Fab beef, and don't let the mall location turn you off—the steak here is really, really good.

2-Harris' Restaurant is a classic. Think large booth, martini with a little extra chilling in a mini barrel, and a behemoth 21-day dry-aged steak. Yes, it's Midwestern, and corn-fed. And it's not cheap. Oh, and don't let the noir-sounding voice on the website video scare you like it did me when the page loads. (You can't turn it off. Like, annoying!)

3-Yum, the steak and frites at South Park Café totally rock me. Oh, and of course Delfina does a famed hangar steak and fries too.

4-The wandering gauchos at Espetus with their skewers of meat makes this Brazilian churrascaria an all-you-can-eat meat heaven for those with hefty, meat-lovin' appetites. You'll get a total meat medley, though, not just steak—from salty sirloin to pork to sausages.

5-Oh, and those craving some quality grass-fed options, there's the delicious Acme Chophouse, or you can go the South American route and hit up El Raigon for some Uruguayan beef and lusty Malbec. (Don't pass up the grilled sweetbreads either.)

Since we're on beef, I got a note from the folks at the new ~BURGER JOINT~ location on King Street that they had to close due to a problem with their exhaust system. They are resolving the issue and hope to reopen shortly. 242 King St. at 3rd St., 415-371-1600.

Last week I mentioned ~TATAKI SUSHI & SAKE BAR~, the new Japanese sushi place that opened on California at Divisadero. What I didn't know is the menu features 100% sustainable seafood. Cool. Will this be a trend in Japanese restaurants? It's the first time I've heard it. Stand by. Want to read more about how to order sustainable sushi? Here's a little something I found on Sprig, thanks Google. I also like to carry my handy Seafood Watch Pocket Guide in my purse—have you ever seen/used this guide? I recommend taking a peek and printing one off. 2815 California St. at Divisadero, 415-931-1182.

~BRICK~ has kicked off a happy hour, and how handy, it's every day! Chef Alex Marsh has put together a special happy hour bar menu, including country-fried maitake mushrooms, lamb sliders, and herbed fries. Hours are 5pm–6:30pm every day, and then there's a similar late–night menu on Thursdays from 10pm–midnight, and Fri–Sat 11pm-1am. Ryan Fitzgerald (Bourbon & Branch, Tres Agaves) has also designed a new bar menu so you have something to help you put the slaphappy in happy hour. You might notice the interior has been remodeled a bit—the bar got a facelift, and there's an exhibition chef's table. 1085 Sutter St. at Larkin, 415-441-4232.

After announcing the closure of the second location of the ~FRONT ROOM~, Eater picked up some investigative slack for me (thanks guys!) and found out "the reason behind the closure is actually an unlawful detainer for non-payment of rent." You can read more here. Will it reopen? Hmmmm.

One place that is opening is ~CANDYBAR~ from owners Derek Chan and Tan Truong, perhaps by this Saturday, March 15. Some inspections and subsequent construction held up the checkered flag last week; here's hoping we have clearance this weekend. I'm looking forward to seeing the paper come off the large windows. You ready for a lot of details? Ok, let's rock. This dessert and wine bar/lounge will have a four-course tasting menu of gourmet desserts for $14 from pastry chef Jake Godby (Fifth Floor Restaurant, Tartare, Boulevard, Coi). He'll be on staff for six months or so; I hear he's opening an ice cream shop in the Mission—more details on that in the next 'hopper! There will be two lists of innovative and seasonal treats, like blood orange baked Alaska with candied fennel and honeycomb; chocolate brioche with balsamic caramel ice cream and spiced yogurt; or a Mission fig confit with fourme d'Ambert panna cotta and cinnamon toast. Yeah, yum. The à la carte lounge menu will feature simpler desserts, such as a bourbon Coke float or tin roof sundae (vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, frosted peanuts, and Maldon sea salt). All ice creams and sorbets will be made in house, and with organic ingredients.

There are also savory offerings for those who aren't sporting a sweet tooth, thanks to savory chef Jason Edwards (Coi, French Laundry, Hawthorne Lane, Enrico's), like fennel marmalade and sweet onion relish with toast; jumbo asparagus with curry remoulade; roasted Yukon gold potatoes with hazelnut romesco; plus some larger plates like pork and pistachio terrine, and braised lamb shanks with seasonal vegetables.

There are also wine pairings available for each dessert selection courtesy of Paul Einbund of Coi who consulted on the list, with a focus on dessert wines from around the world. There will also be some non-desserty vinos, micro-brewed beers, loose-leaf teas, and Blue Bottle Coffee. There are also specialty drinks, like the Apple Push (Pomeau du Normandie, Fee Bros. Peach Bitters, and dry vermouth) and the Dreamy Night (Toro Albala Pedro Ximenez sherry, Carnegie Porter, and vanilla ice cream). How's THAT for some non-spirits beverages?! Impressive. You'll be able to hang out in the 20-seat lounge area in the front (vintage board games are available) or take a seat in the 16-seat dining room toward the back. Look for wine and chocolate seminars and special wine salons on weekend afternoons. Hours are Tue–Thu 4pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 4pm–midnight, Sun 4pm–10pm. 1335 Fulton St. Ste 101 at Divisadero, 415-673-7078.

Some additional news from pastry land: the kiosk at ~ORSON~ in SoMa should be opening around the weekend or so, serving to-go bakery items starting at 7am in the morning. Breakfast of champions. I also hear the restaurant's pizza oven is up and running.

~EASTER~ is early this year (Sunday, March 23), and while our family will be busy preparing baby kid and probably some lasagne for dinner, I know a lot of folks are into going out for the Easter brunch thing. Here are a few ideas around town:

~FARMERBROWN~ is starting a gospel brunch on Sundays, kicking things off this Easter. They are working with a non-profit called Old Skool Café, teaching at-risk youth how to work in the restaurant industry as servers and cooks. 25 Mason St. at Turk/Market, 415-409-FARM.

~PALIO D'ASTI~ is hosting their first-ever Easter brunch from 12pm–3pm. You can check out their menu here. They are also doing their annual St. Joseph's Day Dinner the week before on March 15, a family-style feast; $50 per person, children under 10 pay their age. 640 Sacramento St. at Montgomery, 415-395-9800.

~VITRINE~ on the 4th floor at the St. Regis in SoMa is hosting an Easter brunch until 4pm. 125 Third St. at Mission, Level Four, 415-284-4049.

Don't forget ~ENRICO'S~ in North Beach recently launched their Sunday brunch, and ~BIN 38~ in the Marina just started brunch each Sunday from 10:30am–3pm; both places have heated patios! You can read Bin 38's PDF menu by clicking here.

Of course the ~RITZ-CARLTON SAN FRANCISCO~ does quite the spread. There's an Easter Bunny Tea in The Lobby Lounge with Binky the Bunny (not kidding) from 10am–11:30am, $75 per guest, inclusive of tax and gratuity. Then there's the Easter Buffet Brunch in The Terrace, with a jazz trio, 10:30am–4pm, $98 for adults, $49 for children five to 12, exclusive of tax and gratuity. From 5pm–9pm, Ron Siegel is featuring an à la carte menu or a five-course Easter tasting menu with dessert in the Dining Room. 600 Stockton St. at California, 415-296-7465.

For you folks down in the Peninsula, ~SOFITEL SAN FRANCISCO BAY~ has a buffet, and a special appearance by the Easter Bunny. Seatings are available at 10am or 12:30pm; $50 for adults, $25 for children five to 12 years old, and children under five are free. 223 Twin Dolphin Dr., Redwood City, 650-508-7126.

Now, from bunnies to booze. A belated congrats to bartender ~VICTORIA D'AMATO-MORAN~, who attended the "Battle of the Mixologists Competition" in Las Vegas last week. Bartenders of note were invited from all over the country; Victoria was the only female finalist and came in fifth place. (No one else from SF won.) Her drink was called "Sophia" and incorporated Don Julio and Aperol. Victoria works Sunday Brunch at Bar Johnny's on Polk Street and day shifts at Monaghan's in the Marina during the week.

Cocktailian-about-town Camper English had the scoop on his blog, Alcademics.com, that Todd Smith is no longer going to be the manager at ~BOURBON & BRANCH~ (although he will continue to take charge of the Beverage Academy). Both Joel Baker and Yanni Kehagiaras, who have been at B&B the past year, will replace Smith. More news: B&B is also nearing completion on the new extension. It will be called Russell's Room, and is a luxurious private room, reminiscent of the old JJ Russell's "cigar shop" which stood in place of Bourbon & Branch during Prohibition. The room will have a plush loungey feel, with a full one-man bar and comfortable seating with some design twists. The room is quite intimate, and will hold no more than 40. And check this out: while removing a wall in Russell's Room, they found some amazing old treasures from the late 1920s, which they will be displaying in a glass case. It should be open in April...

Okay, some big changes here in 'hopper-land, which should make some of you "across the bridge" folks happy: I'm going to start mentioning new restaurant openings in the East and North Bay, along with new openings in the Peninsula, too. Gasp! I know! But I won't be reviewing places (sorry—this is what happens when it's just me, an army of one!), or chasing down news like I do here in SF, but if new restaurant news crosses my desk, I'll be happily mentioning it for y'all. Meow? Meow.

To kick things off, I had a nice time chatting with chef Russell Moore, who has been at Chez Panisse for 21 years, and the chef of the Café for 12 of 'em. I know, wow. He is opening his pet project in Oakland, ~CAMINO~, in a former furniture store, a brick building that will have room for about 80, with a bar area with space for around 25 or so. The name is not an homage to the tuff El Camino muscle car—it's actually an Italian word for fireplace, and this one will be the Mack of all fireplaces, a waist-high and mighty spacious number made of limestone. Moore loves the freedom of cooking in a fireplace—you can grill, do cazuelas, bean pots, spit roast… the options are endless. There will also be a wood oven for gratins, flatbreads, whole fish, sausages. Hungry yet? The seasonal menu will be well edited, with something like four–five starters, three–four mains, and just as many desserts; and you know all the purveyors and products will be stellar. Simple, honest, straightforward are the words Moore used to describe the food, and he said vegetarians will eat well here too. He is doing the project with his partner Allison Hopelain, who will be the GM—she formerly had an organic gardening company, and has recently been working at Zuni and Bar Tartine. Thad Vogler will be customizing some kitchen-driven cocktails—there will only be a few offered each day, but they'll be just right. Plus some house-made spirits will turn up, like nocino, and brandy infused with quince. Dinner only to start (Wed–Mon, closed Tuesday), with perhaps some brunch and lunch later on. The construction is almost done—they are targeting April for now. 3917 Grand Ave. at Boulevard Way (more commonly referred to being between Safeway and Ace Hardware), Oakland, 510-547-5035.

A tablehopper reader tipped me off to a new restaurant in San Carlos that just opened called ~THE REFUGE~. It seems gastro-pub madness has also hit the 650, but this joint has a wicked twist: the menu features five–six options of home-cured hot pastrami sandwiches, plus an extensive selection of charcuterie, house-ground American Kobe burgers, fresh sliced rib-eye cheesesteaks (everything is around $13 or so), plus some salads. There are reportedly 12–15 Belgian beers, many on tap, plus 20 or so mostly French wines on their menu (with a focus on biodynamic wines). Sounds killer. Chef-owner Matt Levin's background includes acting as chef de cuisine at Viognier and extensive cooking in France; his chef de cuisine, Michael Greuel, is also from Viognier. Tue–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30pm–9pm, until 10pm or later Fri–Sat. 963 Laurel St. at Morse Blvd, San Carlos, 650-598-9813.

Oh, and I was interviewed by The Wave a couple weeks back about ~WHERE I LIKE TO EAT IN THE 650~ (remember, I grew up in San Mateo) and the 408, so here are some of my faves in the area that I mentioned.

I know a lot of folks are heading north to Healdsburg this weekend for Charlie Palmer's third annual ~CELEBRATION OF PIGS AND PINOT~ event at the Hotel Healdsburg, running Friday and Saturday (I'm actually going up there this Wednesday—look for a Healdsburg jetsetter piece soon!). Some local SF chefs will be joining chef Palmer and Michael Ellis of Dry Creek Kitchen, including the Boulevard crew (Nancy Oakes, Ravi Kapur), and Luke Mangan of South is in town, plus some talent from elsewhere, like David Burke, and Philippe Rispoli of France. And then there's the wine. Ahhh, yes. For tablehopper readers, they would like to offer a special rate of $100 for the Saturday seminars, lunch at Barndiva, and a signed cookbook from Chef Palmer of his latest book, Practical Guide to the New American Kitchen. The ticket is actually worth $150, and then there's the book too! Enjoy! Oink!

the regular: CAV Wine Bar & Kitchen

Back in September 2005, ~CAV~ opened right before the onslaught of wine bar madness, a wave that continues to forge ahead full-tilt in SF like Ebola. People twittered about how it would all work out, with the beloved Hotel Biron wine bar literally just around the corner on Rose. One big difference was CAV Wine Bar had a kitchen, one that people started knowing more and more for tasty eats, so they later added "& Kitchen" to the name. It's been an interesting evolution: now there's a big graffiti piece at the entrance, a red sign so you can find the place, all kinds of cool events, and a nice flow of regulars. And then there's their executive chef, Michael Lamina, who took over for Christine Mullen when she departed at the end of 2007 and is seriously rocking the vittles.

This is not simply a wine and cheese joint, although they happen to do one of my favorite cheese plates in the City (three/$20, five/$30). And I've heard the house-made platter of charcuterie is a champ here ($22). I just couldn't help being summoned like a zombie to the truffled leek terrine ($12) with crispy pig's ear and a wood mushroom salad. Yup, crispy little meaty fatty bits of pig ear (sorry, vegetarians, that must really turn your stomach), with a tender layered terrine of leeks cooked in a stock made from pig's feet. The leeks had awesome depth of flavor. The salad was a perfect (and needed) acidic counterpoint, with a bright dressing of Dijon mustard and lemon. You know when you taste a salad and you really notice it? Like, whoa, good dressing here? This was one of those moments.

In the decadent department, we have the duck confit potato cake ($14), and yes, you read that right—it was almost like a latke, crowned with a huge poached duck yolk. (No wonder I have to ride my bike everywhere.) Again, yay on the accompany salad, this one of braised chicories, with saba, walnut oil, and red wine vinegar. And again, a salad and dressing I really noticed. Downright flirty.

This is the kind of food that cries for spot-on wine pairings, and that's where you should really engage the staff here—and if you're lucky, you can snag owner and wine director Pamela Busch for some wine chat. The list has over 50 wines by the glass, so you can really play with a bunch of the elements in the flavor-forward food here. Busch has a wicked passion for cheese, and she's nutty about wines from the Loire, so those are especially two great things to talk about with her.

If you want to learn more from the wino brain trust here, sign up for the mailing list on the website for announcements on weekly wine flights, plus tasting events, and other seasonal events.

In case you were wondering what to pair with the aforementioned dishes, Busch paired an oh-so-drinkable Pyramid Valley Vineyards pinot blanc, 2006 (Marlborough, New Zealand; $14 glass/$48 bottle) with the truffled leek terrine, and chose the Joseph Swan zinfandel, Mancini Ranch, 2001 (Russian River Valley; $11 glass/$40 bottle) for the duck confit potato cake. Fun pairings—the pinot blanc did interesting things with the vegetal/piggy notes of the terrine, and the chicory salad made the zin go POW!

There are some larger plates, five in all, like a strong but smooth and sexy olive oil-poached black cod (I know, you thought I was describing an Italian guy there for a second) with caper berries, buttery leeks, and the inspired addition of pumpkin seeds ($21).

Lamina is also having fun with a nightly tasting menu ($50), if you're up for an evening of lingering over a full meal. Not everything was successful on the tasting menu one night (some kumquat rind was too dominating in a delicate tai snapper sashimi roll-up of sorts; a crepinette was tough); I felt a few dishes were still a bit in the experimental zone. But his notable flavor pairings were definitely there, which makes me want to try even more of his food—it's appetizing, and interesting, and elegant. He's an inventive chef, but also has a good foundation and technique (he was a sous chef at Grand Café, and a line cook at Farallon before being hired at CAV as a sous in 2006). One to watch, I say. And man, those salads.

The atmosphere is urban chic, with an eclectic soundtrack, a sleek look with metal tables, dim candlelight, hip servers, and a relaxed vibe. The look could be a little too minimalist/modern for the chintz-loving set who may be searching for a bite to eat before the ballet. I'd totally come to this place for a date (perfect for date one OR two) because there's usually enough buzz going on. There are tall tables more toward the front, and a counter that's great for solo flyers, but I prefer the more intimate vibe in the back, sitting under the cool cork installation.

It's also an easy place to swing by for a quick post-work/pre-dinner nibble, like some sweet potato frites with tomato jam, and a glass of something something. Or heck, a bottle with your pals.

CAV always has a little quirk; it can be someone in the staff, or the music, an unexpected wine, or something in a dish. I like quirky—it shows personality. And like an interesting person, it also continues to evolve; it makes for a good friendship.

CAV Wine Bar & Kitchen
1666 Market St.
Cross: Gough St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

415-437-1770
website

Mon–Thu 5:30pm–11pm
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–12am

Apps $7–$15
Entrées $17–$25

the socialite: Jai Yun Chinese Banquet

This sounds lovely: ~JAI YUN AND THE AIWF~ (American Institute of Wine and Food) will be hosting a Chinese banquet, featuring Jennifer 8 Lee, the author of The Fortune Cookie Chronicles. Although the menu at Jai Yun never seems to rotate very much, I sure as hell enjoy the food there (the abalone is one of my favorite dishes, ever). If you've always been curious about this place, this event would be a fun way to try it, and you can check simultaneously out their new (and more spacious) digs. Here's more from the event announcement:

"There are more Chinese restaurants in America than McDonald's, Burger Kings, and Wendy's combined. Egg rolls are as American as apple pie, and for New York Times reporter Jennifer 8 Lee, the story of the Chinese-American experience can best be told through the lens of the food.

"The Fortune Cookie Chronicles is for anyone who has ever wondered who General Tso is and why are we eating his chicken; why all Chinese restaurants use the same trapezoidal delivery cartons; why Jews eat Chinese food on Christmas; and who really invented the fortune cookie. Lee solves enduring mysteries of Chinese cuisine through a lively mix of in-depth research and entertaining personal anecdotes.

"Jai Yun restaurant, already a legend since opening in 2000, serves only prix-fixe menus based on the best ingredients to be found in Chinatown each day."

Jai Yun Chinese Banquet
Mon., Mar. 24, 2008

Jai Yun Restaurant
680 Clay St.
Cross: Kearny St.
San Francisco, CA

AIWF website

6:30pm

$99 individual/$180 couple for AIWF members
(includes dinner and signed copy of the book)

$110 individual/$200 couple for non-members

tickets
or call Book Passage at 415-927-0960, ext. 239 (ask for the AIWF discount)

Bring your own wine and pay no corkage.

the socialite: Hip Tastes Salty & Sweet Tasting

Courtney Cochran of Hip Tastes is starting a new series of her popular evening event tastings. First up is ~THE SALTY & SWEET TASTING~, featuring salty-sweet creations from Elizabeth Faulkner, decadent rocky road-inspired nuggets from San Francisco's own Droga (love love love), single-origin chocolates from hot new European chocolatier Hotel Chocolat, and salty snacks from Estrellita's Snacks and Botanas Felicitas.

There will be a variety of still, sweet, and sparkling wines hand-picked for their affinities with sweet and salty snacks, including Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine, Meyer Family Port, Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Ice Wine, La Badia "Badis" Moscato d'Asti, La Tordera "Cuvee di Gabry" Spumante Rosato, Tenuta di Arceno "PrimaVoce" and more.

Plus there will music, and three prizes from Hotel Chocolat.

Please note Cochran has also added Thursday night classes at Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant in SoMa. The next one is March 20, 2008: Night School: Blind Tasting Bootcamp, 7pm–9pm, $60.

There are also Saturday School classes, offering a more focused environment than the Friday night parties to hone your tasting skills. Coming up on March 15, 2008, is Saturday School: Blind Tasting Bootcamp, 3pm–5pm, $60.

Here's more: "Allow us to enlighten you: it's not brain surgery. Come join a small group of Hip Tasters for our first class of 2008 as we walk you through the fundamentals of blind tasting at the brand spanking new San Francisco Wine Center in SoMa. You'll learn how to sniff and swirl your way to identifying six delicious wines the way professional sommeliers do in a gorgeous new exhibition kitchen setting. We'll wrap with a taste-off between teams to stir up a little friendly interaction in this class you definitely don't want to skip. No apples here: all students leave with a very cool free gift."

Attend any three Hip Tastes classes (Saturday School or Night School) and your fourth is free! All wines will be available for purchase at a discount after class.

Hip Tastes
Salty & Sweet Tasting
Fri., Mar. 28, 2008

Sugar Cafe
679 Sutter St.
Cross: Taylor St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

7pm–10pm

$30

tickets

the health nut: March 11, 2008

Eat too much over the weekend? Clothes feelin' a little tight, or tushy a little too too? Let's work it OUT. Just a little reminder that starting Sunday, Titan Fitness is offering a chance for interested folks to drop in on one of their outdoor classes for free, so come check it out! The free week is Sunday, March 16–Saturday, March 22.

The schedule is as follows:
Monday, 7am, Dolores Park
Tuesday, 6pm, Kezar Stadium
Wednesday, 7am, Dolores Park
Thursday, 6pm, Kezar Stadium

Just go to www.sftitans.com for more details and rates, or call Patrick Barresi at 415-235-9589.

See ya on the stairs!

the starlet: March 11, 2008

This is a good one: Josh Brolin was spotted dining at A16. Good actor, with good taste, what more do you need?

Tracy Chapman was hanging out on the patio at Bar Bambino patio on Thursday night, reportedly rocking a cute little velvet blazer.

the matchmaker: March 11, 2008

Ha, I am placing my own ad! In the "bummer for Marcia" department, it ends up I won't be able to make it to Coachella this year (April 25–27, 2008). Pffffft. I looooooove this festival.

So I have a pair of three-day passes I am selling for face value—please let me know if you'd like to buy them. I'd love to be able to sell them to someone I know! You'd totally be my angel. $570 total for the pair, or $285 for a three-day pass. I know the site says three-day passes are $269, but once you add all those glorious convenience and facility charges, like $72 total for the pair (like, what, for real?), it comes up to $285 per pass.

Just reply to this email, thanks! I have them in hand, so we could arrange in-person ticket delivery. Woot!

letter from the tablehopper: March 4, 2008

I certainly had fun tablehoppin' around town this past week so I could taste my namesake/100th-issue anniversary cocktails. A big, honkin' thanks to Alembic, Absinthe, Presidio Social Club, and Cantina for concocting the swell swill! Those were some mighty fine dranks, with such clever names. And extra grazie to those of you who tried 'em with me! I loved seeing such cute pics of you enjoying them, thanks for sending! Congrats to Christopher D., who sent a pic of himself sippin' the 100 Tuesdays cocktail at Absinthe—he has (appropriately) won a copy of The Art of the Bar!

Also, congrats to Cecilia who won the tickets to the Artisan Cheese Festival that is happening this weekend in Petaluma. Thanks to all of you who provided suggestions on the reviews you'd like to see next—look for 'em in coming weeks!

Sunday night was the fourth tablehopper supper at Piccino in Dogpatch—what a feast! A bollito misto-sized thanks to the kind and talented crew at Piccino for hosting such an intimate and delicious dinner (I know where I want to host my next birthday dinner party!), and to Donnafugata/Folio for providing stunning wines (the Ben Ryé was a big hit over dessert, no surprise there). Check out our group's list of favorite restaurants—this time we each picked our favorite "high" and "low" places. The next supper will probably be in May, after everyone's tax woes subside. Ack.

Since many will be suffering from diminishing funds in April, this week I'm doing a roundup of three cheap eats places around town, including two that will give you yet another reason to visit the Dogpatch neighborhood for vittles.

Next Monday, I'm breaking my "no leaving the house on Monday night rule" yet again, this time to be one of the judges at the Battle of the Chefs event at Macy's. The competition is between two of the City's best Marks: chef Mark Sullivan of Spruce, and Mark Denham at Laïola. Unfortunately all the tickets for this event are sold out, but the next battle's tickets go on sale March 24; the competition will be between Ian Begg of Café Majestic and Joel Huff of Silks.

Oh, and last week I was interviewed about where I like to eat (and drink) in SF and more by the swank ladies at Splendora—check it out here.

Yup, spring is fast approaching, and if the thought of exposing your Bingo Wings is freaking you out, you might want to check out a freebie Fit Camp class with SF Titans—read all about it in this week's health nut. Maybe we can run stairs together.

Cheers dollinks,

~Marcia

the chatterbox: March 4, 2008

Here are some more details expanding on my January post about the changeover of Soluna to ~CIVIC RESTAURANT AND BAR~. The operating partners include René Denis, the former GM of Biscuits and Blues, along with Ed Ivey and Matt Norris. They will continue operating under the Soluna name and concept (they have already made some tweaks to the menu) until mid-April, when they will close Soluna for four days while they put in new décor and spruce the place up—a designer from RISD will be overseeing the new look. When it reopens, Civic's menu will feature fresh and simple food with local, organic, sustainable ingredients. Lunch and dinner will be served, with the eventual goal of weekend lunch and brunch, and open hours seven days a week. Later hours (until midnight) will be happening, plus live entertainment. They are working with the City to gain access to the corner lot that just uselessly sits there with the fence around it (it was an old powerhouse site), and to convert it into an outdoor patio for guests. An organic garden will also be going into the lot behind the restaurant—which means fresh ingredients for the cocktails. 272 McAllister St. at Larkin, 415-621-2200.

Oh, and the chef they planned to hire didn't pan out, so they're currently looking for someone creative with culinary know-how to lead the restaurant. Get in touch with René at rene@solunasf.com if you're interested, or know someone who should apply for the gig.

I'm sorry to report that it appears the ~FRONT ROOM~ has closed for good, after 40-plus years of business (Sam Duvall originally opened it in 1967). After getting squeezed out of its 1500 California Street home by the [insert whatever adjective/string of descriptors you want] landlord Luisa Hanson, it moved down the street to the tinier space at 1550 California last year. The phone is now disconnected—anyone know how to get in touch with owner Lori Laghaei? Best wishes from a lot of people in the neighborhood, and beyond. 1550 California St. at Polk.

Got word that chef ~RYAN SCOTT OF MYTH CAFÉ~ is punching the clock for the last time there next Friday, March 14. Seems the closure of Myth is also imminent around that time, although nothing remains confirmed. Next week will be a busy one for Scott since the debut on the new Top Chef premieres on Wednesday, March 12. Ryan is also busy ramping up his new business, Ryan Scott 2Go (I hope it involves sandwiches).

Fellow night owls, did you know about ~FARMERBROWN'S~ late night special? A tablehopper reader tipped me off to this: after 10pm, you can get a plate of fried chicken, with mac-n-cheese, and greens, plus a cold pint of beer. For $15. Sweet. 25 Mason St. at Turk/Market, 415-409-FARM.

Burger news around town: first, ~BURGER JOINT~ on King Street near the ballpark has finally opened. I think I mentioned this was in works over a year ago. Anyway, now you can get your burgers and fries on. Hours are 11am–9pm, daily. 242 King St. at 3rd, 415-371-1600.

Then over in Hayes Valley, you'll find ~DOUBLE DECKER~ in the old Zoya/Midori Mushi two-story tower at the Days Inn. On the menu: classic American fare, like Niman Ranch burgers ($5.95, or $6.95 for a double decker), spicy Buffalo "inferno" wings, plus homemade chips and fries. And that's about it! Oh, and there's beer. You can dine upstairs, or downstairs. Open daily 10:30am–9pm. 465 Grove St. at Gough, 415-552-8042.

I was on a walk and took a peek at the new ~TATAKI SUSHI & SAKE BAR~ in the old Subway space (good riddance) on California at Divisadero. The tiny 25-seat space has kind of a Zen spa-naturalistic Japanese look. The menu is mostly what I call California-style sushi (lots of maki). A partner in the project and the sushi chef is Raymond H*, (I can't type his last name lest this newsletter end up in everyone's spam filter, egad). His background includes Hana-Zen, Hamano, and Benihana—with five seats available at the sushi bar, maybe he will do some groovy tricks for you. Some namesake tatakis on the menu include beef, albacore, kampachi, ahi tuna, and artic char. There are also premium sakes available. Hours are Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10:30pm, Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11:30pm, closed Sunday. Lunch is coming soon. 2815 California St. at Divisadero, 415-931-1182.

This week's fresh meat review is of ~THICK & THIN PIZZA~, where they're starting a monthly event on the first Tuesday of every month called Dining for Drag. BeBe Sweetbriar (the reining Miss Gay SF and Miss Desperate Diva) hosts these evenings where she and her drag friends wait tables and take turns performing in the restaurant—I can only imagine the scene. 15% of all sales go to a different charity every month. This month it will benefit BAAITS, an LGBT Native American Organization. And to celebrate Madonna's recent acceptance into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, BeBe is dedicating the evening (and music) to Madge. The next Dining for Drag event is tonight, March 4, from 7pm–10pm. 3600 16th St. at Market, 415-431-0306.

Do you have spring fever? I'd wager yes, unless you've been living in a cave the past two weeks. To get you further into the spirit, ~MILLENNIUM~ is hosting a Spring Equinox Menu, full of tender, succulent greens, baby root veggies, peas, shoots, and other springtime favorites! It's a four-course prix-fixe menu for $50/person with a $23 optional wine pairing. The menu is available Thu–Sat for the month of March. 580 Geary St. at Jones, 415-345-3900.

So back in December I mentioned ~FOURBARRELCOFFEE~, the new coffee place opening in The Hub/North Mission from Ritual's Jeremy Tooker. It's not going to open until April or so, but in the meantime, you can have a coffee pulled from one the La Marzocco Mistral machines set up on an espresso cart, from 7am–5pm. It also looks like there will be more space for seats than originally anticipated—it's coming out to about 1,000 square feet of café space, with room for 40 or so total at the tables and two bars. But remember, no Wi-Fi—it's just a place to enjoy your coffee. 375 Valencia St. at 15th.

Nearby, a reader tipped me off to a new spot, ~JACKIE'S VINOTECA & CAFÉ~, opening at Valencia and McCoppin. Anyone know anything, or anyone? A friend says it's looking close to finished. Bonus points if anyone has the owner's contact info! I didn't have time to cruise over and check it out this weekend—expect an update in next week's column!

In the meantime, things are getting closer on the Lower Haight's ~UVA ENOTECA~ from wine director/GM Boris Nemchenok (of Batali's Otto in New York and EOS) and executive chef Ben Hetzel (recently of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton). The menu will feature an extensive list of antipasti, like semolina gnocchi with speck; locally crafted meats like bresaola, speck, lamb prosciutto, and nostrano; cheeses; inventive pizzas and panini (prosciutto with cherries and burrata, anyone?); and tramezzini and piadine. Some one-of-a-kind specialty items will also be available, like a custom cheese, artisan bread, and small-production gelato. There will be about 80–100 wines from small boutique Italian wine producers, with most sourced by wine consultant Jim Kennedy (Delfina, Sociale), and will be served quartino-style (a small decanter that holds a quarter of a liter). Chef Hetzel's wife, Camber Lay, (Epic, Laïola, Range, Frisson) will be consulting on a list of wine-based cocktails utilizing vermouths, wine-based simple syrups, and sparkling wines. The look is shaping up to be rustic and clean, with brick walls, dark wood-stained floors, marble countertops, and subway-style tiled walls, plus red cedar tabletops. The opening is looking like late March/early April for now. Hours will be Mon–Fri 5pm–12am, Sat–Sun for brunch—open from 10am–12am. 568 Haight St. at Steiner.

More wino news: ~THE PRESS CLUB~, the 9,000-square-foot tasting room opening up on Yerba Buena Lane in late April, just announced their two additional and final wine/vintner members (Fritz Winery and Landmark Vineyards). Other wineries include Chateau Montelena, Hanna Winery, Miner Family Vineyards, Mount Eden Vineyards, Pahlmeyer, and Saintsbury. Press Club will feature daily tastings, gourmet food, educational events, wine club opportunities, direct shipping, and private tasting areas for intimate gatherings, plus wine release parties and winemaker dinners. They also recently hired a GM, George Blanckensee, whose hospitality background includes the Westin St. Francis, and Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa. 20 Yerba Buena Lane at Market, 415-494-2000.

Oh, and on Sunday, March 16, ~SOUTH~ is continuing their wine tastings and winemaker dinners with shirazaganza from 4pm–6pm. They'll be pouring 25 different kinds of shiraz, from Heathcote, to boutique brands like Craiglee and Clonakilla, plus Barossas from Torbreck and Elderton. Space is limited to 75 people. $35 includes tastes of 25 wines plus some heavy apps to keep you upright. Last time they sold out quickly, so RSVP early to events@southfwb.com with your phone number, and they'll call you for a credit card to hold your spot. 330 Townsend #101 at Fourth St., 415-974-5599.

~OTTIMISTA ENOTECA-CAFÉ~ has launched 2-for-1 Tuesdays! Every Tuesday in March from 5pm–7pm, all wines by the glass (of equal or lesser value) are two-for-one. Salud! 1838 Union St. at Octavia, 415-674-8400.

~THE PAGE~ has reopened after being closed for a short spell while they installed a new walk-in. Which means colder, and therefore better-tasting beer. A little taxidermy report: an elk and a bobcat have also been added. Lastly, they also win for one of the funnier FAQs. 298 Divisadero St. at Page, 415-255-6101.

Starting this coming Sunday, ~ALEMBIC'S~ Thomas Waugh is tending bar until March 12 at one of my favorite bars in New York, Death & Co. And in return, they are dispatching Phil Ward, their resident cocktail expert, to work behind the stick with Dan Hyatt. Look out.

Oh, and in case you missed the Valentine's Day Savoy Cocktail Night, the Alembic will be rolling it out on the last Tuesday of every month. Here's more: "The Savoy Cocktail Book is a famous old cocktail book, one of the first, and it contains hundreds of great recipes, and a few strange ones, the likes of which we have been hard at work re-creating behind the scenes. So you get the book, close your eyes and point, and chances are we have the stuff to make it for you. Anyway, Round 2 is on Tuesday, March 25." 1725 Haight St. at Cole, 415-666-0822.

On Monday, March 10, ~RYE~ is hosting their monthly mixing competition, this time with Bluecoat Gin! There will be some nibbles by Chuck Fitzgerald and fab deals on Bluecoat cocktails. The competition kicks off at 7:30pm, but the cocktailing begins at 5:30pm. If you are a bartender and want to compete, please contact Greg at greg@rosewoodbar.com. Ten bartenders total will compete for prizes, including the winner's USBG dues will be paid for a year! Rye Bar, 688 Geary St. at Leavenworth, 415-786-7803.

fresh meat: Thick & Thin Pizza

Anyone who knows me knows I am crazee nutz about pizza. This is what happens when your family owns a pizzeria when you're a kid. Heck, it was seriously in the family genes—even my dad's brother had a pizzeria (anyone in the East Bay remember Frankie G's?)! I'm blessed to have Little Star Pizza merely a block away from my apartment—then again, that would be considered unlucky by some. I never even knew I was a deep dish-pizza lover until trying the namesake Little Star (but I ask them to go easy on the garlic).

I have found another lover. And who knew it would be in the Castro? Heh. The next time I'm in the neighborhood and hangry, you just might find me happily perched up in ~THICK & THIN PIZZA~, located in the Lookout, AKA the former Metro Bar and Restaurant—it's right above the (tragically named) Squat and Gobble.

Back in the day, I remember as you'd walk up to the second-story Metro Bar, there was some serious wafting of Chinese food from the adjoining restaurant. Then it became Tapeo, and now with the new bar owners, it's a pizza place, Thick & Thin Pizza. Now, I wouldn't necessarily drive from the Outer Sunset for this dining experience, but the pizza is damned good, and a no-contest winner for killer take-out.

We started with a hefty winter salad ($7) of fresh spinach, with dried cranberries, blue cheese, and walnuts, with a good citrusy vinaigrette. Dressed perfectly. And now, the pizza! Sharon Ardiana of Gialina consulted on the crust, and dude, it's mighty tasty. With the large cornicione (lip of the crust), you'll also note it as a distinct Gialina cousin.

Naturally, I couldn't resist the charms of the Italian Stallion ($15), a 12" "thin crust" pie topped with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized mushrooms, Italian sausage (great kick and nice fennel taste), bacon, pepperoni, and provolone. I know, dude. It was a mountain of meat. Personally, a few too many toppings for me—next time I'll go much simpler because I wanted to taste the spicy sweet sauce, and fab crust. There are four other kinds of thin-crust pizzas, including quattro formaggi, chicken pesto, vegetarian, and tomato basil.

I totally hearted the deep-dish pizza—a 9" pie is enough to feed three, seriously. We did the Castro Queen ($18), with chicken, mushrooms, spinach, skim mozzarella, and tomato sauce. The chicken was juicy, and had a tasty tang from its tequila-lime marinade. The cheese was totally ooey-gooey, and there was just the right ratio of sauce to cheese. The cornmeal crust was cooked evenly, and had lovely flavor and texture. And boy, did this warm up nicely the next day for lunch. Meow.

There is also a s'more pizza for dessert, a huge house-made graham cracker cookie topped with Belgian chocolate and toasted marshmallows. Such a stoner dessert. Get someone to share it with (we're talking about the dessert, babe—sorry, but the doobie is completely up to you), a glass of milk, and you're all set.

The space is a little short on ambiance—there are classic red-and-white-checkered tablecloths, and that's about it. The bench seating along the wall needs a ledge for your feet, so go for one of the high-top tables with stools instead (which are weirdly the old Metro stools with the "M" still on the back—maybe I should buy them?). Perhaps you'll find a few other people dining—I don't think enough folks know how good the pizza is here. Yet.

Or, if you're craving a cocktail and bar ambiance, just order your pizza while boozing next door in the Lookout bar. There are a bunch of other bar snacks you can order that will conveniently help counteract the hefty pours from the hottie bartenders, like curly fries, calamari, burgers, and the like. If you live in the neighborhood, welcome to your new take-out treasure! It's also open for late lunch on the weekends, at 3pm!

Thick & Thin Pizza
3600 16th St.
Cross: Market St.
San Francisco, CA 94114

415-431-0306

Mon–Thu 5:30pm–9:30pm
Fri 5:30pm–10pm
Sat 3pm–10pm
Sun 3pm–9:30pm

Apps $3–$8
Pizzas $8–$19
Dessert $9

the regular: The New Spot

Since I managed to get some folks to visit Dogpatch for the tablehopper supper at Piccino, what the heck, let's give y'all another great reason to come to the 'hood: the best darned pupusas in the City. Buckle up, because the pupusas at ~THE NEW SPOT~ are gonna mess you up. You're going to become a zombie for them.

They are downright ethereal. Not greasy, or gluey, or dense. I really wasn't aware a pupusa could be light, but they actually melt in your mouth—they're that tender and delicate. It's a new pupusa paradigm, completely.

I munched one stuffed with chicharron and queso (pork and cheese/all $2). The zucchini special I had was also de-lovely. You have to order a minimum of two per order, but what's difficult will be ordering a minimum of two, for reals. You're gonna want them all: just cheese, or beans and cheese, or cheese pork and beans, or loroco and cheese, or chicken and cheese… plus there are special pupusas of the day too. Hungry yet?

I want to ask them to make breakfast pupusas. All I can think about is one with chicharron, cheese, and a fried egg on top. (I have a sick mind like that.)

They also come with a sparkling curtido (coleslaw), plus chips and homemade salsa. Call me a freak, but I love my pupusas with a side of sour cream, and a few shakes of Cholula—a holdover from my days of pupusa missions with my buddy Paco in L.A.

To be honest, I tried this casual little Mexican and Salvadorian place when it first opened about a year ago, and I wasn't impressed. Wasn't sure where the flavors were hiding, but they weren't here. Now they have come back in full force, yay. Like one day we started with a wonderful albondigas soup that tasted like something your abuelita would make for you (if you had one). Mighty good meatballs, man.

There's an impressive variety of dishes, like panuchos, pasteles, fried yucca with chicharron, chile rellenos, chimichangas, tortas, chile verde, enchiladas with mole… the list goes on. Good stuff, Maynard. Some folks were munching burritos or tacos, but I say save that for your Mission taquerias, and at least start with the home-style dishes here first. All are under $10, and the main dishes come with rice, beans, and salad. I've also heard some of the drinks are really good, and unusual, like a chocolate and corn drink I gotta return to try.

The place is clean, and the folks are friendly. Love the macaw mural. It's a small joint, so there are only a few tables, and the lines can be long for lunch take-out, but everyone must agree it's worth it—and the food even comes in biodegradable containers, cool! The breakfast options are also notable, from chilaquiles ($5.95) to huevos rancheros ($5.95) to all kinds of scrambles. Enough to make you remember why it's the most important meal of the day.

The New Spot
632 20th St.
Cross: 3rd St.
San Francisco, CA 94107

415-558-0556

Mon–Fri 8am–7pm
Sat 9am–3:30pm

Apps $3–8.50
Mains $7.25–$9.50
Dessert $2.50–$3.50

the regular: Hard Knox Café

Since this week is like my Dogpatch roundup, I want to mention one more spot that cracks me up: ~HARD KNOX CAFE~. The irony is this little soul food joint is run by a Vietnamese family who lived in Texas; they've been running this cozy and down-home place for nine years. It looks like a roadhouse, with corrugated metal siding for the walls, antique signs, a wood bar and floors, cute red vinyl booths, and some bluesy tunes. It's almost always busy, with a line out the door, but it moves pretty quickly.

I've tried a lot of things on the menu, but the fried chicken ($9) is where it's at. I think it's some of the better fried chicken in town, actually—my Southern pal agreed. You get three pieces (a leg or thigh, a wing, and a breast), with a light fry but good crunch, and the chicken is almost sweet it's so juicy. Plus you get two warm corn muffins, which are probably nuked, but oh well, along with a soft pat of butter, and you get a choice of two sides (which are all vegetarian). Yeah, I know, for $9. No, it's not Fulton Valley Ranch chicken. But it's commendable there's a place serving hearty portions of some decent comfort food in this town for under $10.

Of the sides, I think the potato salad is just perfect, and it's fun to dig in to some old-school kinda trashy stovetop mac and cheese that reminds me of being eight and having dinner at a friend's house (it tasted nothing like my mother's, who made hers by scratch, a baked version with a little milk, lots of cheese, and cut-up Polish dogs in it, yum!). Otherwise, the vegetable sides taste either canned to me, or just weird—like, I gotta have salt pork in my collards, and the yams were cloyingly sweet.

The spicy chicken sandwich ($6.45) is also the shiznit, with grilled onions, peppers, and a tasty sauce. For me, that's it—those are my two dishes. I know some folks love the spare ribs, the oxtails, and the Cajun meatloaf. But for me, the rest of the menu doesn't really rock me—for some unfortunate reason, I've had some pretty bland dishes here, and the vegetables haven't been shown much love. But I definitely dig the friendly service, the Mason jars for your lemonade or Arnold Palmer, and the cold (and super affordable) beer on tap. And the fried chicken. Bwok.

Hard Knox Café
2526 3rd St.
Cross: 22nd St.
San Francisco, CA 94107

415-648-3770
website

Mon–Sat 11am–9pm 

Sun 11am–5pm

Entrées $6–$10
Sandos $5.50–$6.45

the wino: Mauro Cirilli on Five Italian Wine and Cheese Pairings

Mauro Cirilli of Perbacco hails from Padova, Italy, where he was introduced to the joys of wine at an early age, when he would visit his grandfather's vineyard in the Colli Euganei and join in the process of making wine for their friends and family. Mauro received his Sommelier Diploma from the prestigious Italian Association of Sommeliers in Firenze and worked as a sommelier at several renowned restaurants in Northern Italy. Shortly after moving to the United States in 2001, he worked as Lead Sommelier at Aqua. Eager to return to his Northern Italian roots, Mauro joined the opening team of Perbacco in October 2006.

Five Italian Wine and Cheese Pairings

If you are an Italian wine aficionado who enjoys the leftover red wine from dinner with some cheese, I have a few suggestions to try the next time you're home with a group of guests.

In Italy there are more than 600 indigenous grapes, and more than 400 cheeses, so there are a lot of choices to have fun with. My first suggestion is to forget the old idea that red wine is the only choice to pair with cheese, and open your mind to try something new.

It's always a good idea to follow a regional pairing. You might start with a light and very fresh cheese made with cow's milk, like mozzarella di bufala. This type of cheese is simple and delicate, and you will want to have a wine that enhances these qualities. Try pairing it with an elegant white wine, such as falanghina or a fiano di avellino, so not to overpower it. Both of these white wines and the cheese are from the region of Campania.

Have a young pecorino sardo (sheep's milk from Sardegna) with a white vermentino di Gallura (from the same island). This cheese has a soft and elastic texture with a slightly tangy flavor that will be a fantastic match with the zesty flavor of this wine.

If your cheese selection is a cheese made with goat's milk, like a fresh caprino with its classic pungent texture, consider a white wine that is lightly aromatic with good acidity, like a sauvignon blanc. Look for some producers from the northeastern Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

One of my favorite Italian cheeses is parmigiano reggiano. Although you can easily pair this with a good glass of red wine, I like to pair it with a glass of spumante, the Italian sparkling wine that is made using the classic method, méthode champenoise. The stunning acidity and bubbles of this wine help to clean your mouth from the strong flavor of the cheese. Look for vintage spumante, which will show more complexity and balance, chosen from top producers like Ca' del Bosco, Majolini, or Bruno Giacosa.

One of the most famous Italian blue cheeses is Gorgonzola. Try to find Gorgonzola piccante, which has a stronger flavor because it has been aged longer. With such a flavorful cheese you need to have a wine of good complexity. I suggest pairing this cheese with Marsala, especially the Vecchio Samperi Vent'anni (20 years) from the producer Marco de Bartoli.

Unfortunately, Marsala has always been a mass-produced wine, with a lot of low quality available in the market. However, Marco de Bartoli is, without discussion, the top producer. Marsala is made like sherry, using the Solera system. This is a long aging process using a series of barrels over a period of several years, and results in unique flavors and textures. It shows nutty and caramel aromas with a light sweetness balanced by a beautiful acidity. This is just what you need to pair with Gorgonzola piccante.

And lastly, as I always suggest to my guests at the restaurant, do not forget to follow a progression, from a milder cheese with a lighter wine, to a bolder cheese with a fuller wine—this simple rule can really make a difference in your dining experience.

I hope that you will find these suggestions helpful for your next pairing and give you the opportunity to try something new.

the socialite: Wine Events at bacar

bacar has a couple groovy wine events on the calendar. First, renowned German winemaker ~DR. ERNST LOOSEN~ will be pouring and discussing his wines for a five-course dinner this Wednesday, March 5. Guests will have the opportunity to meet with Dr. Loosen and taste 11 of his beloved wines, including his 2006 Villa Wolf Grauburgunder, and 2006 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese and 2007 Dr. Loosen & J. Christoper "Two Worlds" Pinot Noir, over a dinner prepared by executive chef Robbie Lewis, with dishes such as local petrale sole with bacon-braised Savoy cabbage; Liberty Farms duck breast with medjool date puree and glazed turnips; and Berkshire pork tenderloin with porcini mushrooms, salsify, and creamed nettles.

The Dr. Loosen estate has been in the same family for more than 200 years. Once Ernst Loosen assumed ownership in 1988, he realized that with un-grafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. His approach to winemaking combines contemporary technique with a respect for tradition. This has earned the estate an overwhelmingly positive response from wine writers and wine lovers the world over. Most recently, Wine & Spirits awarded him "Best German Producer" and "Best Producers of the Past 25 Years" in 2007.

And then, coming up is another ~SOMMELIER SUPPER~ (held the 3rd Sunday of every month). Wine director Mickey Clevenger continues bacar's monthly tradition by offering an intimate evening of food and wine. Capture an inside look into what it takes to make it on bacar's wine list. Guests will have the opportunity to preview and sample approximately two dozen wines not yet on the list in bacar below, and then enjoy a family-style dinner.

Wine Events at bacar
Wed., Mar. 5, 2008
Sun., Mar. 16, 2008

bacar
448 Brannan St.
Cross: 4th St.
San Francisco, CA 94107

415-593-4100
website

Loosen dinner
Wed., Mar. 5, 2008
6pm
$125, sans tax and tip

Sommelier Supper
Sun., Mar. 16, 2008
7pm
$65, sans tax and tip

the socialite: Toast of the Town

Wine Enthusiast Magazine will host its second annual ~TOAST OF THE TOWN~ food, wine and music event at the War Memorial Opera House. I went last year, and the venue made it really unique. This event, an annual highlight of the New York City, Chicago, and now the San Francisco epicurean scene will feature over 70 domestic and international wine producers, plus signature dishes from 30 Bay Area restaurants. There is also a silent auction, with donations from the participating wineries and restaurants, to benefit the San Francisco Food Bank, and live jazz from Loosewig.

Participating restaurants listed on the website include: Ana Mandara, Bar Tartine, Bistro Jeanty, BIX, Café Gibraltar, Campton Place, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, Delfina, Étoile at Domaine Chandon, Go Fish Restaurant, Joe DiMaggio's Italian Chophouse, Michael Mina, Mustards Grill, Pica Pica Maize Kitchen, Pizzeria Delfina, PlumpJack Café, Poleng Lounge, Pres a Vi, Quince, Rivoli Restaurant, Straits Restaurant, Sutro's at the Cliff House, The Tonga Room Restaurant & Hurricane Bar and Z. Cioccolato.

Some participating wineries include: Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Bernardus, Champagne Louis Roederer, Domaines Ott, Graham's, Masi Agricola, Perrier Jouet, Robert Mondavi and many more—check out the list here.

tablehopper readers should enter the discount code of WCAL08, which is good for $10 off the Grand Tasting price, and $20 off the VIP Tasting price. For both tastings, space is limited and tickets will be sold on a first-come, first-served basis.

Toast of the Town
Thu., Mar. 27, 2008

War Memorial Opera House
301 Van Ness Ave.
Cross: Grove St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

800-847-5949
website

VIP tasting
5pm–7pm
$185
$155 with the tablehopper discount

Grand Tasting
7pm–10pm
$95
$85 with the tablehopper discount


purchase tickets

the health nut: March 4, 2008

Hey there—have you been curious about joining Titan Fitness's Fit Camp? I keep lovin' my Tuesday and Thursday workouts, especially with the increasingly better weather we've been experiencing. Boot camp this is not—it's a good workout, with supportive instructors—it's not one of those programs designed to punish you at 6am, five days a week, making you so sore that it's difficult to walk or even wash your hair. Titan is offering a chance for interested folks to drop in on one of their classes for free, so come check it out and try it! The free week is going to be Sunday, March 16–Saturday, March 22.

The schedule is as follows:
Monday, 7am, Dolores Park
Tuesday, 6pm, Kezar Stadium
Wednesday, 7am, Dolores Park
Thursday, 6pm, Kezar Stadium

Just go to www.sftitans.com for more details and rates, or call Patrick Barresi at 415-235-9589.

the starlet: March 4, 2008

Cybill Shepherd was spotted having lunch last Tuesday at Vitrine at The St. Regis San Francisco (it's the hotel's breakfast and lunch restaurant on the fourth floor). She dined with Dr. Ernest Bates, a MOAD board member. She was also spotted Monday night at COCO500 having dinner with some gal pals, and reportedly "looked great!"

And now in the "Stars" Behaving Badly department, I heard Top Chef's Hung Huynh dined at Nopa over the weekend—his table sent back what is probably one of the city's best pork chops, claming it wasn't done enough (for them), and let's not talk about the 10% tip they left the server.

the matchmaker: March 4, 2008

Restaurant manager needed for Sundance Kabuki Cinema's unique dining and drinking concept. Love of independent film is a plus. The job offers good pay, full health coverage and two weeks paid vacation.

Please send your resume to dennis.gray@sundancecinemas.net.