letter from the tablehopper: April 29, 2008

So glad I made it home from Chicago in time to enjoy the gorg weather over the weekend. My trip to Chicago was super-short, with no time to play, really, but I did manage to wiggle a dinner in at Blackbird (freaking delicious), and Frontera Grill (lucky for me it was cochinita pibil night!). I even got a pic of Mister Bayless, who was in the restaurant that night. Gotta head back to Chi-town soon and take a week to run around—it was torture to be there and not be able to experience that super-cool (and whoa, so clean!) city. Thanks anyway to all of you who sent recos!

Before heading out there last Tuesday, on Monday night I had a chance to peek at Anchor & Hope (bite highlights include some stunning Beausoleil oysters, the fried Ipswich clams, and stuffed clams with basil), and then scooted on over to Uva Enoteca, a nice little slice of NYC here in the city. Can’t wait to go back to both and hang out.

Had a good time on the radio on Sunday on A Matter of Taste with David Michael and Rachel Cane—will let you know the next time I’m on (in May). We chatted about Sebo, Spork, the new chef and dishes at Tsar Nicoulai, and I was asked if there is an off-limits time of day for egg consumption (uh, never!).

Oh, and thanks to all of you who entered to win the $100 gift certificate to Troya! Bummer I was only giving away one prize! Congrats to tablehopper reader Alicia A. who won–enjoy your din din.

Have a swell week,
~ Marcia

the chatterbox: April 29, 2008

I was hearing rumblings last week, and it seems that ~NUA~ in North Beach has closed. Things weren’t looking good with the diminished dinner hours (Wed–Sat only). Some rumors have owner David White involved in a potential project elsewhere in town—will report back if I hear anything definitive. 550 Green St. at Jasper, 415-433-4000.

Another project that just went kaput: the ~FRISSON/SPREZZATURA GROUP/SEAN O’BRIEN COLLABORATION~. Raising money proved to be difficult (what, in this challenging business climate?), and it ends up that the Sprezzatura Group (Andrew McCormack and Joe Hargrave) are also splitting up. There’s no drama or hard feelings: Hargrave will continue focusing on the operations of Laïola, and McCormack is returning to hedge funds (but he still owns his equity). The frisson space is now on the market, and in case some of you out there were originally hoping to court O’Brien to your project when he left Myth, here’s your chance. Well, maybe. (He alluded to something else potentially in the works, but it’s way too soon to tell.) Just reply to me if you’d like to get in touch with him. You know, there are a lot of vacant spaces in Jackson Square: MacArthur Park, Scott Howard, Myth, and now frisson… Hmmmm. It’s getting rough out there.

Some good news about ~LAÏOLA~ (which I totally heart): the restaurant is kicking off lunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30am–2:30pm this weekend. There will also be outdoor seating, with room for 12, plus heaters, which will be all set up by this weekend, or next. 2031 Chestnut St. at Fillmore, 415-346-5641.

Whoa, ~BORIS PORTNOY~, only one of my favorite pastry chefs ever, is no longer at Campton Place. He is traveling right now in Indonesia, but will be heading back home to SF soon. Nothing quite final about what his next gig will be when he returns… Will keep you posted, naturally. I have a vested interest in knowing where he is—it’s all about the pursuit of deliciousness.

Heard word that the executive chef of ~CORTEZ~, Seth Bowden, is leaving on June 2nd (he might stay a little longer if necessary). Bowden and Cortez’s new owner, Ron Silberstein, are on good terms—the departure is more about the fact that Bowden is moving to South Africa this summer with his wife, and is fired up to be doing some stages in Europe during his “sabbatical.” So the chef hunt is on—Silberstein is considering a concept that might be a little less high-end. Any interested candidates out there? 550 Geary St. at Jones, 415-292-6360.

And just a few blocks away, co-executive chef Charlie Kleinman of ~FISH & FARM~ is leaving at the end of May—he’s going to focus on getting his own project off the ground. Co-executive chef Jake Des Voignes will continue to hold it down. 339 Taylor St. at O'Farrell, 415-474-3474.

~FRJTZ~ in Hayes Valley is officially open. It’s much larger than its former Hayes Valley address next door, when it used to be in the awesome Mad Magda’s Russian Tea Room space with the back patio (anyone know what is going in there? I loved that spot), and now has moved into the former Montauk furniture store, for those of you who keep track of these things. Stylistically, things have changed too: the look is more minimalist and modern than bohemian. No mussels at this location, however—just at Valencia Street. Here you’ll find fries, crepes, salads, and sandos. 581 Hayes St. at Laguna, 415-864-7654.

Some news in the Western Addition/NoPa area: ~ON THE CORNER~ had its soft opening last week, and is hosting its grand opening this Saturday, May 3rd. Look for coffee, tea, soups, sandwiches, bagels, and some pastries, with breakfast sandwiches, pizza, and panini starting up next week, on May 5th. There will be daytime and nighttime bands and jazz, and the beer and wine should kick in five weeks from now, so let’s say June. Open 8am–10pm, and will start opening at 6am on May 5th (rise and shine, yo). Hours will eventually extend to midnight—they are playing it by ear (ha ha, yes, a pun!) until the beer and wine license is in effect. Oh, and there’s free Wi-Fi for you laptop warriors. 359 Divisadero St. at Oak, 415-522-1101.

Since some of you are asking me, “Wassup with ~BAR CRUDO ON DIVISADERO~?,” I wanted to give you an update: permits are still in the works, and will hopefully wrap in June. August is the new hoped-for opening date. No name for the biz just yet either. Stand by! 655 Divisadero St. at Grove.

Been waiting, and wondering, what was going to be moving into the ~PIER 5~ restaurant/café spaces, located a bit north of the Ferry Building. Well, thanks to a tablehopper reader who sent in this tip just before I published this week’s column, now we know! “Russell Jackson (aka Dissident Chef) wrote in his last blast email that he signed a lease last Friday for a space on Pier 5 on the Embarcadero of San Francisco's waterfront.” I hope to have more details by next week!

On these warmer days, sometimes what you need is a secret little space to grab a table and hang out. Well, last week I was at ~SPORK~ checking out their lunch (they are now serving lunch Tue–Fri 11:30am–2pm) and lo and behold, their deck/patio in the back was almost complete! It should be up and running by now. You’d never know it’s back there—well, unless you read tablehopper, of course. They built it over the old KFC parking lot, and umbrellas and heat lamps are included. There are also some old water troughs that have been converted into mini-garden plots. It’s cute. Oh, and if you go for lunch, don’t miss the deeeelish carnitas on some over-easy eggs and a tortilla, plus avocado and queso fresco. I was calling it a perfect candidate for a hipster breakfast: you can wake up late, it’s cool, bro! The pasta with beef Bolognese sauce smelled really good too. Check out the rest of the lunch menu here. 1058 Valencia St. at 21st St., 415-643-5000.

And just a block away… A while ago I mentioned a business called ~ZAYTOON~ was moving into the old Bistro Annex space in the Mission. As I was reading this week’s spring “Feast” insert in the San Francisco Bay Guardian, I spotted an ad for Zaytoon, serving Mediterranean wraps! Ok, so now we know. The ad says, “Mention this ad for a buy one, get one free” deal during the opening month of May. Ah ha! More details. So, it opens in May! No one is picking up at the number just yet… Can someone let me know when it’s open? And a tablehopper reader kindly informed me the last time I mentioned this mystery biz that zaytoon means “olive” in Farsi. Now you know. 1136 Valencia St. at 22nd St., 415-824-1787.

Here’s a little teaser from you: next week I’ll be releasing some exciting news about a new project related to ~DESTINO~—I’ve been sitting on this for months (can’t wait to let the cat outta the bag) but based on some online sleuthing, here’s a little hint about what is going into the space next door at 1817 Market Street. Salud!

Since we’re on “secret spaces,” have you had a chance to check out ~FOUR BARREL COFFEE~ yet? (Or as I am now going to call it, alley coffee.) After my lunch at Los Rosales this week (see fresh meat for more on that), I finally had some time to cruise by and check it out. You literally have to go down a slightly sketchy alley—just look for some folks hanging out at the end. No, you won’t get shanked. (Although it does prove what ends San Franciscans will go to for good coffee.) There’s a cool Deco-lookin’ fabricated bar/kiosk thingy where you’ll order up, and then you can stand around and kick it with some neighborhood architect types while savoring your stellar espresso. Don’t say I didn’t warn you—it’ll put you in the zooooooone. I almost ordered a second shot on the spot. For now, they are using coffee from Stumptown Coffee Roasters in Portland until the Four Barrel Coffee roastery part of the biz is up and running, which could be in a month or so (ditto on the café). So enjoy the novelty of alley coffee while you can! Just enter the alley (Caledonia) off 15th Street—it's parallel to and a little bit east of Valencia (i.e. going toward Mission, for the directionally challenged).

Looks like there’s another place to power lunch in SoMa: ~JACK FALSTAFF~ has just added a “Power Lunch” menu to the regular lunch menu. The new offerings include a lunch-size starter paired and served with an entrée (which means a nicely-sized lunch that’s not too filling and won't take too long). Some combos include potato and leek soup paired with a chicken Caesar salad; apple, walnut, and baby green salad paired with a “PBLT” sandwich of slow-roasted pork belly and beefsteak tomato on grilled sourdough; and seasonal soup paired with Liberty Farms duck breast Cobb salad (with poached egg!). “The Power Lunch” pairings range from $16–$19. For those avoiding the three-martini lunch scene, there are “Zero-Proof Concoctions” as well, like a grapefruit spritzer, or grape lime Rickey, with Navarro gewürztraminer juice with a splash of lime and soda, each $6. Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm. 598 Second St. at Brannan, 415-836-9239.

I don’t need any convincing about the sublime factor of the pesto at ~FARINA~. The mandilli al pesto dish is truly one of the city’s best pasta dishes, meow. Seems the rest of the world thinks so too, because their sous chef, James D. “Danny” Bowien won the 2008 Golden Pestle for Best Pesto Sauce in the World at Genoa’s Palazzo Ducale. A Korean-American beat the Italians! Love it, and it ties in well with the recent New York Times article about non-Italian chefs cooking Italian food. ‘Nuff said! I am sure Farina’s executive chef, Genoese Paolo Laboa, is thrilled since he’s the one who taught him the way of the pesto (it’s like samurai knowledge). 100 finalists (both professional and amateur cooks) from all over the world competed to make pesto with a mortar, pestle, and solely authentic Genoese pesto ingredients (Genoese basil, Parmigiano Reggiano, Fiore Sardo cheese, Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, Vessalico garlic, sea salt, and Italian pine nuts). Read more on the event here. Tanti auguri, Danny!

Wanted to mention I’ll be a panelist at the upcoming ~RESTAURANT BOOTCAMP~, an all-day conference on Tuesday, May 13th, at Fort Mason. I’ll be on the afternoon’s “Create the Buzz” new media panel, with Nish Nadaraja from Yelp, Liz Johannesen of OpenTable, and the featured restaurateur is Eric Rubin from Tres Agaves. On Wednesday, April 30th, 1pm, a special pre-conference tele-seminar will feature Danny Meyer, author of Setting the Table. Participants may join a live telephone call with Meyer. To register for the call, and get more info, visit www.restaurantbootcamp.com or call 888-471-4447.

Next Thursday, May 8th, is ~EAST WEST EATS: AN EVENING WITH THE BAY AREA'S BEST CHEFS~, a culinary fundraiser for student journalism scholarships at the Ferry Building Marketplace. Chefs from the following restaurants will be featured: Straits Restaurant, Betelnut, Three Seasons, Junnoon, Butterfly, Poleng Lounge, Red Lantern, Maharani, Namu, Ponzu, and Hilton San Francisco. The event also will feature wine and entertainment. 7pm, $100 for AAJA (Asian American Journalists Association) members, and $115 for non-members. Tickets can be purchased online at www.aajasf.org/ewe.

Interested in entering the first-ever contest to determine the most environmentally friendly restaurant in the Bay Area? Anyone can nominate a restaurant that they believe is "green" in some way, including the restaurants themselves. Nominations can be done online at www.thimmakka.org. The nomination period for the ~WHO'S THE GREENEST OF THEM ALL~ contest is from April 22–May 31, with winners to be announced on June 24th. Winners will be selected in a variety of categories. In case you were wondering, Thimmakka is a grassroots non-profit organization dedicated to environmental outreach—in the last six years, it has helped over 120 restaurant owners 'green' their establishment by implementing at least 60 measures in the areas of water and energy conservation, pollution prevention, and waste reduction.

Time for some East Bay love—and when I say love, that means free food! There’s a new restaurant set to launch called ~QIN’S ASIAN BISTRO & BAR~ (pronounced chin) in Antioch, and the team at Full Plate Restaurant Consulting (with clients like Bin 38, Dosa, Maritime East, Namu) is looking for Contra Costa dining guinea pigs. On Friday, May 9th, and Saturday, May 10th, they will be hosting a pre opening “dry run” to see if their latest client is ready for prime time. Fast-acting tablehopper readers are invited to bring guests for an “on the house” menu tasting (limited to first 100 total diners). The catch? You must each fill out a detailed survey that will take ten minutes. Be honest, but kind—this will be the first time that the kitchen is working together, and they want constructive criticism that will help them fix glitches before they open to the general public.

When you arrive, there will be regular menu with several selections in each category. Food is free for you and your guests. You need only pay for drinks and gratuity; credit cards will be accepted. You’ll need to make a reservation via jsimon [at] fullplateconsulting [dot] com. Reservations deadline is by Monday, May 5th. Put “tablehopper tasting” in the subject line and give your name, preferred day (Fri or Sat), seating time (any time between 6pm–8:30pm), number in party (maximum four), and contact phone number. You’ll get an email confirmation within 48 hours (if not, call Joan Simon at 707-795-4885). Have fun, and enjoy! Some dishes I saw on the press release include creamy Thai chicken chowder; whisky lobster bisque; sriracha chili-soaked chicken wings; twice-cooked crab for two served over garlic noodles; and traditional Peking duck. Hungry? Do something about that, why doncha?

fresh meat: Los Rosales

It was an errand-loaded Saturday afternoon, and while waiting for Mauricio the wonder shoe repairman on Guerrero to fix my canary yellow high heels, it was time to snag some lunch. It was too late in the day for me to get my lunch on at Mission Beach Café across the street, which in hindsight I’m thankful for. Not only because I stopped myself from eating pie for lunch (bad girl!), but it also forced me to venture further down Fourteenth Street to the place on the corner at South Van Ness I’ve wondered about, ~LOS ROSALES~, formerly New Central Café. Isaac Mejia of Don Pico’s in San Bruno tipped me off to this place a while ago, back when it was New Central. He told me about a killer Mexican BLT, and a pickled pig tostada (you’d think he knows me or something). Well, the new owners must be keeping the flame alive, because the recent incarnation as Los Rosales is muy delicioso.

Lucky me, my timing was impeccable, because it was Saturday, which means fab weekend soup specials, baby! I’m a huge fan of birria de chiva (goat stew)—and with the grinning goat painted on the sign outside, it boded well. I was totally stoked to see birria tacos ($4) on the menu, and while four clams for a taco is a bit of a step up from the usual taco truck pricing I like, man, was this good birria, hella good, topped with onion and cilantro. I could have eaten three of ’em. The fish taco I tried was fine, but really no match for the birria.

Random side story: this talk of being no match is making me think of luchadores. A few Halloweens ago, I was at a bar (shocking, I know) and there was a group of guys in luchador masks. Except for one, who had his mask sitting on the bar. I asked him why he didn’t have his mask on, and he glumly stated he didn’t like his luchador name. He pointed to one guy and said, “See, he gets a cool name like La Fresa, and me? I’m stuck with Horchata.” I almost hurt myself laughing. I gave him a pep talk, assuring him he had the baddest name of the bunch. Horchata! Hells yes. Seriously, don’t mess with Horchata. He got fired up and put the mask back on.

Okay, so back to the comida. Two other things that really stood out were the super-fresh chips and the crack-like addictive salsa. I know, chips and salsa, whatever. But no, señor. This salsa was so good that I had to forcibly stop my hand, which was in cahoots with my mouth, from eating the whole basket. Seriously, like, stop it.

I dug into my high school Spanish archives and tried getting the breakdown from the friendly Michoacan chef on the salsa ingredients—looks like the chiles used include guajillo and ancho. Dude, they should bottle the stuff, it’s the perfect smooth salsa, with balanced heat, tang, and flavor. Ay, dios mio. I even had my remaining salsa packed up to go. (Never done that before.)

I also tried the tostada of cueritos ($4), which are basically ribbons of pickled pigskin—like pre-chicharrones strips (without the fryer action). Very tangy, tender, and not for everyone, but I kind of dug ‘em, especially with the accompanying mountain of beans, lettuce, cabbage, crema, and queso fresco.

Washed it all down with a thirst-quenching agua fresca of guava (they have a station dedicated to aguas frescas by the door). The two ladies working here were so nice—I think they were getting a kick out of the gringa eating cueritos and birria. I am so going back on another weekend for their pozole and sopes, and am tempted to take over the side room for a party with my amigos. The menu was full of authentic dishes, must try mas!

NOTE: They couldn’t give me a menu; so sorry for no overall pricing details, but it’s all super cheap!

Los Rosales
301 S. Van Ness Ave.
Cross: 14th St.
San Francisco, CA 94103

415-552-2326

Open daily 8am–8pm

the lush: April 29, 2008

Guess what? ~JAZZ AT PEARL’S~ is NOT closing! A couple tablehopper readers told me Kim Nalley, the (now-separated) wife of the owner, got on stage a few days ago and announced she ended up getting the club in the divorce settlement, and some new backing money came through, so the club won’t be closing. Nalley then reportedly sang Tony Bennett's “The Best Is Yet To Come.” Well. The May bookings have been rebooked, including Barbara Morrison, Houston Person, and on Sunday May 18th, my personal favorite chanteuse, Veronica Klaus. 256 Columbus Ave. at Broadway, 415-291-8255.

After a ridiculous amount of phone tag and months of messages, I was finally able to get in touch with the new owners of the much loved ~C. BOBBY’S OWL TREE~ for the word on what’s going on. As I mentioned back in October, the new owners are Rick Howard and George Karas of Harry’s Bar on Fillmore and Bruno’s. Michael Brennan is behind the renovation (he also did Bruno’s), and while they will be keeping the name and some elements of the owl motif, this will not be a museum in honor of former owner Bobby and his kitschy owl-lovin’ ways (RIP, Bobby!). Sadly, when the new owners took over, the place was stripped and pretty wrecked—only a few owls remained (here’s a link again to the SF Weekly article from the fab Katy St. Clair about what went down with one of Bobby’s sons who took over the place and went kind of cuckoo).

The new Owl Tree will be more of an upscale lounge, and is bidding farewell to its dive bar status (the cocktails won’t quite be on a hot-to-trot mixologist level, nor feature scary vodkas with eagles on them either). The bar will have a portrait of Bobby, and perhaps you have noted the tiled owl mosaics on the exterior of the building. Inside will be a cozy and casual vibe, with a few snacks like cheese and salami on offer (no more snack mix and handi-wipes), the upstairs area will be open and spacious, and one throwback to Bobby will be the music: it will continue to be a loungey style, with standards by Sinatra, Dean Martin, and the like. The Owl Tree will be open nightly 4pm–close. The owners are hoping for an early to mid-May opening. I know Bobby is gone, and understand things have to change. I just wish I had taken some photos of the amazing interior before it all went away, like the incredible wallpaper. And yes, all the owls. It was an authentically magic place, full of so much character, roller chairs and all. 601 Post St. at Taylor.

For those of you celebrating ~CINCO DE MAYO~ around town, I heard Mamacita’s kitchen and bar will be open on the early side Saturday–Monday, from 2pm–close. 2317 Chestnut St. at Scott, 415-346-8494.

And ~DESTINO~ will be celebrating their eight-year anniversary on Cinco de Mayo, with two-for-one cocktails, some free passed apps, and an assuredly fun party. Happy birfday! (And you can peek at what is going on next-door, heh.) 1815 Market St. at Octavia, 415-552-4451.

Next Monday, May 5th, yes, Cinco de Mayo, those kooky boozehounds over at ~CANTINA~ are hosting Industry Jocks, an event highlighting the bonus trait of folks in the industry who DJ. This ongoing event will be on first Mondays—the timing with Cinco de Mayo is just nuts. Tequila drink specials, yes. Cover, no. DJ mayhem, guaranteed. Plus snacks from La Cocina to keep your boat steady. 580 Sutter St. at Mason, 415-398-0195.

On another music-related note, the Temple Music Group is releasing their first album, Prana Vol.1. The party will be at ~PRANA RESTAURANT AND TEMPLE NIGHTCLUB~ this Thursday, from 9pm–1am, where there will be drink specials, artists from the album, some free downloads, appetizers, and other goodies. There is no cover, and everybody is invited. 540 Howard St. at 2nd St.

Some wino events: this Thursday, May 1st, is a five-course Zenato wine dinner at ~ACQUERELLO~, in conjunction with Jug Shop Italian wine specialist Floribeth Schumacher, and Nadia Zenato. Acquerello will be pairing the Lugana 2006, Lugana “Sergio Zenato” Riserva 2005, Valpolicella 2005, Ripassa 2005 and the award-winning Amarone 2004. 7pm, $125 per person, inclusive of tax & gratuity. RSVP directly at 415-567-5432.

~SOUTH~ is celebrating their first ever ABC (anything but chardonnay) blanc party on Sunday, May 4th, (no home game) from 3pm–6pm, $35, and they will be providing nibbles. Monday, May 5th, is a winemaker dinner with acclaimed Forrest Estate winemaker, Dr. John Forrest (the winery is not well known here, but has a cult following in New Zealand). 5:30pm, four courses for $95 per person. RSVP at events [at] southfwb [dot] com, put ABC in the subject line, or Forrest Estate, or both (you wino, you), and include a contact number. They’ll call you to get a credit card to hold your spot. 330 Townsend St., Ste. 101 at 4th St., 415-974-5599.

And then Tuesday, May 6th, ~SILKS~ is hosting an Argyle wine dinner with Argyle’s Chris Cullina. Bubbles, chard, pinot noir. And Joel Huff’s fantastic cuisine. 7pm, $150 per person, plus tax and gratuity. For further information, contact Nicole Kosta, wine director. Mandarin Oriental, 222 Sansome St. at Pine, 415-276-9787.

Women throughout the country with a passion or professional interest in wine will be descending on the Napa Valley May 2nd–4th to attend the ~WOMEN FOR WINESENSE’S 2008 GRAND EVENT, CELEBRATING WOMEN IN WINE~. There’s a wine reception at Paraduxx Winery on Friday evening, Saturday’s all-day program takes place at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, and Sunday there will be rare, behind-the-scenes winery tours and tastings. More information and tickets are available online at www.wwsgrandevent.org.

the socialite: Bourbon and Bacon Dinner at Orson

©2008 frankenyimages.com

If there ever was a custom-made meal for me, I think this would be it. Bourbon. Bacon. Like, where do I sign? This special ~BOURBON & BACON DINNER~ is during San Francisco Cocktail Week, and will feature spirits from the Beam Family portfolio, and piggy vittles from the sick minds of Elizabeth Falkner and chef de cuisine Ryan Farr. This event is sure to sell out, so get on it and reserve in advance! Oink! Hic.

(There are other special cocktail/spirited dinners that evening at places around town to celebrate San Francisco Cocktail Week, like bacar, Conduit, The Alembic, and Bong Su, plus Flora in the East Bay, so be sure to check out the SF Cocktail Week site, or get in touch with those restaurants for more details on those dinners!)

Here’s the Bourbon and Bacon dinner menu:

In the Beginning
house charcuterie on a stick, chicharrones and bbq sauce, and mini bologna sliders
Anchor Steam Liberty Ale

First
Pigs in a Blanket
country terrine en croute, apricots, watercress
Belmont Stakes
Basil Hayden’s, apricot liqueur, Cynar, lemon

Second
Lardo and Crawfish
fried green tomatoes, spring greens
Kaffir Lime Leaf Ginger Julep—Jim Beam Rye

Third
Green Eggs and Ham
english peas, maple pork belly, fried smoked egg
Touch of Evil
Baker’s, Rhubarb Syrup, Lemon, La Fee Absinthe

Fourth
Whole Roasted Suckling Pig
potato ramp hash, bing cherry red eye gravy
Booker’s Break
Booker’s, Nux Alpina Walnut Liqueur, Port Wine

Dessert
Pigwich
Knob Creek

In the End
milk and honey, pineapple and pig
Makers Mark

Bourbon & Bacon Dinner
San Francisco Cocktail Week
Thu., May 15, 2008

Orson
508 4th St.
Cross: Bryant St.
San Francisco, CA 94107

415-777-1508
website

7pm (one seating)

$65 food and drink included
(excludes tip and tax)

Reserve at 415-777-1508 or lissa [at] orsonsf [dot] com

the socialite: 9th Annual Oyster Fest

The largest oyster festival on the West Coast is coming up, ~SAN FRANCISCO OYSTERFEST 2008~, which drew over 15,000 people to the park last year. This ninth annual event centers on the unique combination of oysters and stout, plus a bunch of live music. A wide variety of other beverages will also be available, ranging from beers and wines to premium spirits. Though oysters are the main theme of the festival, many alternative choices of cuisine will also be offered.

Some sideshows include the Shuck and Suck Competition (ahem), an oyster history exhibition, and oyster cooking demonstrations. A play area will be set aside for children, and anyone under age 14 will have free entry, except for the special reserved seating area. Minors will not be permitted to enter the event if unaccompanied by an adult. No backpacks or coolers allowed, and no outside food or beverages permitted. Bike parking is available.

Here’s the music line-up:
Saturday, May 17th (noon–7pm)
The Dropkick Murphys
Juliette Lewis and the Licks
Yard Dogs Road Show
Eoin Harrington

Sunday May 18th (noon–7pm)
She and Him (feat. Zooey Deschanel & M. Ward)
Mother Hips
Chuck Prophet & the Mission Express
Whispertown 2000
Seattle Jim Page

9th Annual OysterFest
May 17–18, 2008

Great Meadow at Fort Mason
(Laguna and Bay)

website

one-day tickets:
$20 general admission
$45 special reserve (premium seating area)

two-day tickets:
$35 general admission
$80 special reserve (premium seating area)

tickets

the bookworm: Pete Mulvihill of Green Apple Books recommends

Don't forget: this book below is available at 20% off for tablehopper readers for two weeks following this mention at Green Apple Books—simply use the code "tablehopper" at checkout (either at the store or online) for your discount.

Cookbooks tend to lag a bit behind restaurant trends for obvious reasons, thus it’s no surprise we just received the first book we’ve seen on izakaya, which, in case you haven’t been reading tablehopper, is most often described as “Japanese pub food” (not to be confused with British pub food—the aesthetics, the booze of choice, the calorie counts, and the mouthfeel of the two cuisines could not be more opposite).

The book Izakaya: the Japanese Pub Cookbook comes from Kodansha, the leading U.S. publisher on all things Japanese, and the author, Mark Robinson, is a Tokyo native and resident, so its authenticity is beyond question.

I’m not likely to crack this book on a weeknight for quick dinner inspiration—many of the ingredients aren’t in my cupboard and may necessitate a visit to Japantown or Clement Street, but many dishes are quite simple and most are pretty appealing. And I could see trying out one of these recipes once a week or such to experiment, learn new techniques, and liven up the dinner table.

Beyond the recipes, the author also profiles some pubs, ingredients and spices; touches on izakaya history; provides a basic guide to sake (an integral part of any izakaya experience, of course); and more. It’s also a handsome book: sharp pictures abound, the recipes are well laid out (never spilling from one page to another in case your hands are covered in wasabi), with interesting sidebars sprinkled throughout.

If you’re into the topic, it’s literally the only book on the subject. If you need some new ideas in the kitchen, this is worth a look.

Thanks for reading.

letter from the tablehopper: April 22, 2008

So when you’re reading this, I’ll actually be on a plane headed to a consulting gig in Chicago this week. I won’t have much free time, but Blackbird and the Violet Hour for cocktails are top o’ my list. And hopefully Portillo's for a dog and garbage salad (I’m 100% class, really).

Wanted to share some fun news: starting this Sunday, April 27th, I’m going to be a monthly guest on A Matter of Taste, a food and drink-oriented radio show with David and Rachel Cane. I’m scheduled to go on at 5pm, but the show airs from 4pm–6pm. Tune in to Green 960AM and I’ll be recapping some highlights of where I’ve been gallivanting and what I’ve been lovin’ around town lately.

Wanted to give a shout-out to the nice CCSF culinary students I met while I was at the Wok on the Wild Side event Friday night—keep up the great work!

Oh, and for those of you who adore abalone, or just want to learn more about it, here’s a link to an article I recently wrote for Edible San Francisco called “The Abalone Rangers”—look for it in this month’s April/May Fish issue, which I think is on newsstands now!

Lastly, I’m doing a giveaway of a $100 gift certificate to Troya Restaurant, featured in this week’s the regular. (The certificate is not redeemable for cash, and excludes the gratuity.) Just forward this newsletter to two pals (or more, thanks!) and cc luckyme [at] tablehopper [dot] com when you send it to your peeps—it's best if you explain why you're emailing it to them, or at least include something about tablehopper.com. I promise I won't be collecting your friends' emails, those will stay private—I just need to keep track that you forwarded it to two or more folks. The deadline to enter is by midnight, Sunday, April 27th. I will be randomly drawing the winner and will email you to let you know you've won next week. Good luck!

Happy Earth Day.
~Marcia

the chatterbox: April 22, 2008

A couple weeks ago I was hearing rumblings that the Pascarella-Lacroix-Siegel deal for ~MYTH~ fell through, and it has been confirmed that chef Ron Siegel of the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room is not leaving after all. There are other rumors circulating about who is negotiating to take over the Myth space, will keep you posted. Let’s just say verrrrrry interesting if one of the rumors proves to be true. This entire thing is like reading a weird mystery novel, with big plot twists and new characters that keep showing up.

Eater broke the story that The Public in SoMa was closing, and a business called ~BASIL CANTEEN~ was moving into the historic space. I tracked down Basil Thai owner Todd Sirimongkolvit (gosh, I hope I got that right—I thought my last name was a beast!) for more details. He said he has been looking for a space to expand for the last few years (he also owns Soi Four in Berkeley), and is thrilled to find a space so close to his SoMa restaurant. Basil Canteen will be like a casual Thai izakaya of sorts, serving a fun style of food called gap klaem, which are dishes designed to pair with drinking (should come in handy with the space’s full bar). There will be about ten small plates/bar snacks and a variety of noodles (four–five sautéed noodle dishes, and five–six soup noodle dishes). I heard Public is closing this coming weekend, April 25th (the owners are focusing on their projects overseas), and Basil Canteen should be opening in July after the renovation is complete. It will be open for lunch and dinner nightly, and will be serving late, until midnight or so, on Friday and Saturday nights. 1489 Folsom St., at 11th St.

~MOOSE’S~ is officially closing on Sunday, April 27th—the sign is slated to come down, and there’s a big party planned from 3pm–5pm (be sure to RSVP at mooses [at] rivera-pr [dot] com or by calling 415-533-0041). 652 Stockton St. at Union, 415-989-7800.

On a new business note, this Thursday April 24th marks the long-awaited opening of ~UVA ENOTECA~ in the Lower Haight, in the former Horseshoe Coffeehouse space. The project is from wine director/GM Boris Nemchenok (of Batali's Otto in New York) and executive chef Ben Hetzel (recently of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton). I’ve mentioned the details before, but to recap: the menu will feature an extensive list of antipasti, salumi (from Salumi in Seattle, yum), over 15 cheeses, a daily pizza, bruschette, panini, tramezzini, and piadine. There will be 85 wines from small boutique Italian wine producers, with most sourced by wine consultant Jim Kennedy (Delfina, Sociale), and 20–25 served quartino-style (a small decanter that holds a quarter of a liter), and chef Hetzel's wife, Camber Lay, (Epic, Laïola, Range, Frisson) will be consulting on a list of wine-based cocktails. The look is rustic and clean, with exposed brick walls, ebony-stained floors, marble countertops, and red cedar tabletops. Hours will be Mon–Fri 5pm–12am, and Sat–Sun for brunch from 10am–12am. 568 Haight St. at Steiner, 415-829-2024.

I was asking some folks about the restaurant Eater mentioned was going to go into the now-closed ~POWELL’S PLACE~ in the Fillmore (1521 Eddy St. at Fillmore), called Tribute Restaurant, and it seems the business partners have split and the plans have disintegrated. No word about what may be going in next. In the meantime, Powell’s is working on being open and up to full speed in Velma's Jazz Club in Bayview. They are targeting June—will release more details soon. 2246 Jerrold Ave. at Upton.

Another update: ~GITANE~ is another one on track for opening in June. You may recall, this is the project from Franck Leclerc of Café Claude, with chef Lisa Eyherabide who is putting together a menu inspired by regions in Southern France and Northern Spain, with hints of North Africa. Sean Diggins, the current beverage director at Café Claude, will be overseeing the beverage and wine program, and Dominic Venegas (Range, Cantina, Bourbon & Branch) will head up the bar program—look for some Spanish sherries, and unique Spanish brandies. I’m excited to check out the funkified space from Charles Doell of Mr. Important Design, complete with hand-painted wallpaper and two vintage French 1950s chandeliers. Mmmm, glam! 6 Claude Ln. at Bush.

~BEACH CHALET BREWERY AND RESTAURANT~ and the ~PARK CHALET GARDEN RESTAURANT~ have a new executive chef, Gregory Hutchinson, formerly of Brix in Yountville. On the menu, look no further than the outdoor barbecue, plus prime rib on Monday nights at the Beach Chalet. There will also be a new Park Chalet brunch buffet on Sundays with a do-it-yourself Bloody Mary Bar, great on these warmer days. 1000 Great Highway, 415-386-8439.

Thanks to a Chowhound, I found out ~NICKIE’S~ in the Lower Haight now serves brunch Sat­–Sun 10am–3pm. Based on the posting, it sounded pretty good: lemon zest ricotta pancakes and a breakfast pizza (Fontina, prosciutto, egg, arugula, and basil), plus some brunch standards. What’s nice is new means no lines! Well, for now. 466 Haight St. at Fillmore, 415-255-0300.

Quick update: ~CHEZ PAPA RESTO~ has new hours: lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm, brunch Sat–Sun 11am–3pm, dinner Sun–Wed 5:30pm–10pm, and Thu–Sat 5:30pm–11pm. 414 Jessie St. between Mission and Market near Fifth, 415-546-4134.

Not exactly confirmed on this one, but based on an ABC application, it looks like ~K’S CAFE~ in the Outer Sunset is becoming Amisha Indian. The woman at K’s hung up on me, so perhaps their stellar customer service is what contributed to their demise? Anyway, all will be revealed. 1924 Irving St. at 20th Ave.

And whoa, what was going down with the ~BACON HOT DOG LADY~ Saturday night in North Beach? A tablehopper reader reported there was some activity with the po po. Hey, she’s busy saving drunk people from themselves, where is the crime in that?

Here are some cool events coming up: these cooking classes for ~SAN FRANCISCO COOKS FOR A CAUSE~ sound awesome. They are a series of cooking classes to benefit the San Francisco Food Bank, in partnership with the California Culinary Academy. Classes will be held on Saturdays from 9am–1pm. Each class starts with a cooking demo, then participants prepare the dishes themselves. $150 per class. California Culinary Academy–Bistro, 350 Rhode Island. To purchase tickets, contact Amy Gac, Event Coordinator at amygac [at] gmail [dot] com.

Here’s the line-up of swell chefs:

May 3: Laurence Jossel, Executive Chef, Nopa
June 14: Reylon Agustin, Chef de Cuisine, Jardinière
July 19: Bob Kantor, Executive Chef, Memphis Minnie’s B.B.Q. Joint
August 23: Glenn Wielosinski, Chef, California Culinary Academy

The American Institute of Wine & Food and Asia Society of Northern California are hosting Min Jin Lee (author of Free Food For Millionaires) at an ~ASIAN FUSION FEAST~ on Wednesday, April 30th at Ponzu. (You can read the menu here.) No corkage if you’d like to bring your own wine! 6:30pm, $95 per person/$175 per couple (AIWF & Asia Society members receive a discount rate of $90 per person/$170 per couple). Price includes tax, tip, and an autographed book. 401 Taylor St. at Geary. For tickets: call 415-927-0960, ext. 239, or order online at www.bookpassage.com.

While I was on the Book Passage site, there’s also a lunch event with ~MARIO BATALI~ on Monday, May 5th, at Il Fornaio ($125)! Molto fun.

Since we’re in Italia, mark your calendar, because coming up at ~INCANTO~, Monday, June 9th, and Wednesday, June 11th, is when the restaurant is hosting their fifth annual Head to Tail dinner. Five courses of offal. Oh yeah. (Check out the preliminary menu here.) $75 per person excluding beverages, service, and tax. And Monday, July 14th, is the night for their four-course Sicilian Mattanza Dinner. Read: lots of bluefin tuna. $65 per person, excluding beverages, service, and tax. 1550 Church St. at Duncan, 415-641-4500.

Have you ever taken a class at the Purcell Murray Culinary Lifestyle Center in Brisbane? They’re informative, usually pretty intimate, and I’ve always eaten well. Coming up on Saturday, May 3rd, executive editor of Williams-Sonoma TOOLS & TECHNIQUES (an awesome book, by the way—it’s helpful in the way a mom teaching you how to cook is helpful) Jennifer Newens will be teaching a class. This is the second in a continuing series of basic cooking techniques: ~TOOLS & TECHNIQUES, VEGETABLES 5 WAYS~, which will cover five delicious ways to prepare vegetables. Braised fennel with tomato; stir-fried spring vegetables with ginger, lemon, and mint; creamed spinach with basil; roasted baby artichokes; and grilled ratatouille. 11am–1pm, and lunch is included. $45. 185 Park Lane, Brisbane, 415-330-5557.

Further south, folks in Palo Alto are going to be stoked with this upcoming project from the Bacchus Management Group (Spruce, Village Pub, Pizza Antica) called ~MAYFIELD~. This bakery and café concept will be located in the Town & Country Village shopping center, mainly designed to provide all the bread for the Bacchus Group restaurants. Heck, they already have their own farm (SMIP Ranch), and guess what: they even started their own coffee roaster last week, selling both wholesale and retail! (It’s in Emeryville.) OK, back on Mayfield—it takes its name from the raucous town that was known for its saloons—it was adjacent to then-dry Palo Alto, back in the day. Things will be considerably less rowdy: imagine a hybrid between Della Fattoria and the style of food at the café upstairs at Chez Panisse, and you’ll have an idea of Mayfield’s market-driven/farm-to-table menu and bakery concept (Nancy Pitta is the baker and a partner in the project). There will be 90 seats in the café and on the patio, and there will also be a small section for bakery items for carry out. Look for a June or July opening. 855 El Camino Real at Embarcadero, Palo Alto.

Up north, the beer trend continues (a good thing, the beer trend). Dean Biersch’s new venture, ~HOPMONK TAVERN~ officially opened last week in an 105-year-old California historic landmark building in Sebastopol, just at the intersection of Highway 116 and Highway 12 in Sonoma County. I’ve already received a couple emails raving about it, always a good sign. Hopmonk offers innovative and seasonal gastropub fare from chef Lynn McCarthy, craft beers from Europe and smaller regional producers in the U.S, including 75-plus bottled beers, 16 drafts and two cask-conditioned ales, plus a 55-seat classic beer garden to enjoy it all in, and an acoustic performance stage for music. And how convenient, there’s even a regional bike trail that passes through the front of the property. Located adjacent to the tavern and beer garden is The Abbey, a 200-person, 2,000-square-foot music venue. 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-7300.

From April 29th–May 3rd, ~POGGIO’S~ chef Peter McNee will be featuring some dishes Allo Spiedo (cooked on the spit). Think roasted meats—like guinea hens and pheasant, lamb, suckling pig, rabbit, and goat—that will be carved on the gorg imported carrello (heated tableside cart) McNee debuted with the bollito misto dinner earlier this year. The meats will be paired with contorni of polenta, and fagioli all’uccelletto (white beans with tomato, sage, and olive oil) that are cooked underneath the meat to catch all the drippings. Dinner only, a la carte, $19 per person includes assorted meats and side dishes. 777 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415-332-7771.

~LE GARAGE~ just opened in Sausalito in the old Waterfront Café space—it’s a casual and tiny French bistro from Olivier Souvestre, the former Chez Papa chef. Breakfast and lunch for now, and there’s an outdoor patio too—since it’s in the Schoonmaker Point Marina, it’s reportedly quite the scenic spot, with a charming view of the boats. They start serving coffee at 7:30am, and lunch is served Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm, with coffee extending until 4pm or so. Dinner starts May 19th and will be served Tue–Sat. 85 Liberty Ship Way, Ste. 109, Sausalito, 415-332-5625.

This isn’t very food-related, but whatever, it’s my column so I can do whatever the hell I want! In this case, it’s anything to help support and raise awareness about New Orleans. There is a documentary making its West Coast premiere at the SF International Film Festival called ~FAUBOURG TREMÉ: THE UNTOLD STORY OF BLACK NEW ORLEANS~ and it looks amazing. The first screening at the very pleasant and comfortable Sundance Kabuki Cinema is Saturday, May 3rd, at 1pm, then on Tuesday, May 6th, at 3:45pm, and Wednesday, May 7th, at 9pm. I am so there. Check it out and show your support!

the regular: Troya

I really wish we had more Turkish food in San Francisco. I also lament the dearth of Greek food as well. Is it so hard to get a good souvlaki here? Maybe it’s just too freaking cold so all those hot-blooded Mediterraneans are tempted to stay away. Anyway, ~TROYA RESTAURANT~, a Turkish and Mediterranean place, has been holding down a breezy corner in the Inner Richmond for a few years, and can now boast a new chef, Randy Gannaway—he was most recently at Aziza (he was previously a sous chef at The Girl and the Fig, and worked at Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar at The Lodge in Sonoma). Troya is the picture of a neighborhood restaurant—nice and friendly staff, affordable pricing, a comfortable casual atmosphere, and while it’s not a place I would insist someone trek cross-town for, it does have its own little charms. It’s definitely on a higher level than the other Turkish joints around town, more sit-down than hole-in-the-wall.

Troya would actually be an ideal date spot—easygoing vibe, not packed or too noisy or expensive, there are a number of prime tables flanking the window, and it has soft lighting (flattering lighting, always key). There’s even a fireplace, but I don’t know how I feel about it being so close to the cool-looking sunburst wine rack.

My dining partners and I started with the zucchini cakes ($6), two tender falafel-sized patties that were a touch salty, but evened out against the coriander mint aioli. We preferred the seared lamb loin ($7) marinated with çemen (a feisty fenugreek paste). They warn you the lamb is served rare, which is important because most folks would freak with meat this rare, but man, with a swipe of the cumin yogurt and a piece of the watercress, it made for a heavenly little bite. I have to hand it to the chef, he learned well at Aziza: he gets whole lambs here, and uses all the parts for various dishes.

Another tasty app was the trio of skewers of calamari ($7) stuffed with spinach, eggplant, and goat cheese. The creamy center played nice with the smokiness of the tender calamari—there was also a slight kick too. But the cannellini beans underneath were a bit grainy, and the fennel and radicchio salad needed more salt.

There was a bunch of other mezes to choose from, like a lentil salad, or grilled halloumi, and of course some dolmas and spreads. (Vegetarians will have a good selection of choices here.) All the mezes are about $7, and the mains hover around $15, so this place could be ideal for a large group trying to get their swerve on, but still watch their budget. And not like I am one to encourage corkage (here’s a good wino piece from Alex Fox on the matter) but it’s only $15—if you’re going to go that route, I say for every bottle you bring for your group, order one off the list.

Okay, back to the eats. From the mains, we tried the chicken güvec ($14.50), two crisp legs of Fulton Valley Ranch chicken (darn, a touch overdone) with a scrumptious almond coriander sauce. Very casserole-like, a total “mom is cookin’” hearty kind of dish. The base of parsnip, eggplant, and olives made it tangy, and tasty. Extra-delish with a side of basmati rice pilaf ($4) that comes gussied up with some sumac.

The beyti ($15), a sliced-up wrap of adana lamb in flatbread with tomato and yogurt sauce, while a nice presentation, felt strange as an entrée. If it’s what I would have ordered as my main dish, I would have been bummed—it felt too lunch-y, and would be better as a shared app. As it was, the tomato sauce had a weird wang to it, like it was from a can. We were told it was sumac in it, but whatever it was, the sauce was lacking in certain charms. It also felt spendy compared to the satisfaction-factor of the chicken dish.

The mushroom manti ($13.50) are a traditional Turkish treat, almost like a rolled ravioli. They are delicate and especially tender here—ends up a Turkish lady comes in to make them. We heart her. Wonderful with the yogurt sauce and the drizzle of paprika oil.

Dessert included a pot de crème ($6) that was too cold and thick, and I didn’t taste the rose in the dollop of cream on top. A better choice is the traditional route, like the künefe ($6), shaped like a little brick made of shredded kadayif (phyllo that’s crispy, almost the texture of shredded wheat) that is baked to order, and comes with sweet fromage blanc in the middle, and topped with pistachios. I wish it wasn’t so late when I dined there, because dessert would have been perfect with some Turkish coffee ($3).

The food isn’t faaaaabulous, with some dishes scoring higher than others. But I suspect as Gannaway settles in more, the menu will continue to improve and get honed in—he’s really passionate about the food, and I appreciate his commitment to using quality ingredients, organic where possible, and still keeping the prices where they are (no easy feat).

The wine list is more thoughtful than your “usual ethnic place,” with most by-the-bottle selections hovering at $40, split between Californian and European choices, plus a fair number of by-the-glass selections for a restaurant of this size. Oh, and one handy thing to note: Troya is open continuously for lunch from Friday through Sunday, a spiffy thing for your back pocket the next time you’re hungry for lunch at 4pm, and everything is closed. A crafty Trojan horse you can spring on someone, perhaps.

Troya Restaurant
349 Clement St.
Cross: 5th Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94118

415-379-6000
website

Mon–Thu 5pm–9:30pm
Fri–Sat 5pm–10pm
Sun 5pm–9pm

Lunch
Fri–Sun noon–close

Apps $5–$7
Entrées $13.50–$16
Desserts $5.50–$6

the lush: April 22, 2008

I heard ~PEARL’S JAZZ CLUB~ is closing on Sunday, April 27th, with Barry Lloyd as the final performance. I couldn’t get a straight answer why it’s closing—it appears there’s something personal going on with owner Kim Nalley. Here’s a letter from Nalley posted on the SF Weekly blog—you have to scroll way down, FYI. 256 Columbus Ave. at Broadway, 415-291-8255.

Also in North Beach, there is a project brewing in the Zebra Lounge space and the neighboring Club Latitude called ~ATMOSPHERE 3~. Someone told me the owners might be from Burlingame. I heard the project is a month out or so, slated to offer entertainment, a lounge, and a pool table. That’s about all I’ve got. 447–459 Broadway St. at Columbus.

the socialite: Vinfolio Wine Tasting Event

Pic from Vinfolio.com

Vinfolio is launching their inaugural ~WINE TASTING EVENT: GLOBAL WINE DISCOVERIES~, featuring wines from around the globe selected by Cyrille Hanson, Vinfolio Wine Buyer. Cyrille will be on hand to explain the merits of the many hidden gems she has selected for the tasting, as well as her tried and true philosophy that one should "taste the description, not the score" of a wine. Click here to see the spiffy Old and New World selections that will be poured. Your 

ticket price includes assorted cheese and charcuterie selections.

Tablehopper readers get a 10% discount off the pre-registering price ($40). When purchasing the tickets through the site, put (tablehopper) after your name, so they can process the charge with the discount. Have you been to Coffee Bar yet? What a cool space, you’ll dig it!

You will have the option of automatically emailing your reservation form or printing and faxing it to 415-946-1359. Tasting notes will be provided at the event. You will be able to order all wines the day of the event and arrange for pickup or shipment at a later date. Questions may be directed to David Ruvalcaba at events [at] vinfolio [dot] com or 415-946-1300.

Vinfolio Wine Tasting Event
Thu., May 1, 2008

Coffee Bar
1890 Bryant St.
b/w 17th St. and Mariposa
San Francisco, CA 94110

6:30pm–9pm

$40 in advance*
*tablehopper readers get a 10% discount
$50 at the door

tickets [PDF]

the socialite: Meals on Wheels Star Chefs & Vintners Gala

If you were going to blow some dough on an event, I’d say the ~ANNUAL STAR CHEFS & VINTNERS GALA~ is one to consider—and it goes to a great cause. Last year’s event seriously rocked—it felt like every chef in town was there. And it’s all to benefit Meals On Wheels of San Francisco and their efforts to serve one of the city’s most vulnerable populations: homebound seniors. Over the past year, Meals On Wheels of San Francisco has served more than 800,000 meals to 2,200 seniors—it really depends on this fundraiser each year. Last year’s event raised a record $1 million. Let’s do it again. (For the record, tickets are selling fast!)

The evening begins at 5 pm with a hors d’oeuvres and wine reception provided by more than 30 chefs and wineries, followed by a three-course, sit-down meal, with each course prepared by one of 24 different chefs. The grand finale is a dessert reception and dancing.

Among the chefs participating in this year’s gala are: Jan Birnbaum (Epic Roasthouse), David Kinch (Manresa), Douglas Keane (Cyrus), Elizabeth Falkner (Orson / Citizen Cake), Richard Reddington (REDD), Nate Appleman (A16 / SPQR), Chris Cosentino (Incanto / Boccalone), Staffan Terje (Perbacco), Laurence Jossel (NOPA), Shotaro “Sho” Kamio (Yoshi’s San Francisco), and Cal Stamenov (Marinus). For the complete jaw-dropping list o’ chefs taking part, take a look here.

Many of California’s leading wine producers will also take part in the Gala, providing wine pairings for each of the specially prepared dishes. Participating vintners include Cakebread Cellars, Chalk Hill Estate Vineyard & Winery, Duckhorn Vineyards, Grgich Hills Estate and Silver Oak Cellars. You can read the entire line-up of participating wineries here.

During both live and silent auctions, guests will have the opportunity to bid on a number of once-in-a-lifetime items, including a trip to France, a wine connoisseur package featuring a dozen bottles of “unobtainable” wines, a behind-the-scenes tour of a San Francisco Giants broadcast, a party on a private yacht featuring the culinary creations of Nancy Oakes, and private dinners and cooking classes with celebrity chefs.

Meals On Wheels 21st Annual Star Chefs & Vintners Gala
Sun., May 18, 2008

Fort Mason
Festival Pavilion
San Francisco, CA

415-920-1111
ext. 221

website

5pm reception

$400 per person*
($350 is tax deductible)

the starlet: April 22, 2008

Tommy Lee and crew dined at Scala's last Thursday night. They were pretty mellow for a party of ten, and left just after midnight. Tommy signed a couple of autographs, but for the most part, they were a quiet, rather chill group. (Hmmm, maybe they were tired from partying the night before.)

Okay, this sighting is way out of my usual 415 territory, but who can resist a George Clooney sighting? Yeah, I know. He was spotted dining at Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa. Seems he rolls with a crew of hearty eaters—they ordered eight dishes for their party of six. And, of course, he was charming to everyone there. Le sigh.

letter from the tablehopper: April 15, 2008

So are y'all looking good with a little sun-kissed color? Weekends like the one we just had are moments when I seriously relish my convertible, and give thanks that we live so close to the coast—I actually hit the beach both days.

Another thing I give thanks for is the sometimes incredible edible mail I get. So much better than just bills and credit card applications, let me tell you. (I know, I know, now you really hate me.) But I do end up discovering some great products this way. One of them became a winning snack for me and my beach buddies this weekend: the new flavors of popchips (sea salt and vinegar and salt and pepper). I am not really into chips (my waistline is challenged enough) and I am definitely leery of low-cal products made with ingredients I don't recognize. Not to sound like an infomercial, but I had to share! These taste seriously good, are all natural, and are a shockingly low 4g of fat or so for an entire bag. Extra awesome with an ice-cold beer (sand not included).

A couple other delicious things I've recently discovered:
~I tried the Harvest Song preserves from Armenia at the Fancy Food Show a couple years ago (apricot is so good, ditto on walnut, and peach!), and have been hooked ever since (I pick 'em up at Rainbow). They just came out with a gorg plum preserves version, been delish on my morning toast! No preservatives, or pectin. Just fruity goodness.

~I was eating a bit too much of the Marin French Blue from Marin French Cheese Co./Rouge et Noir this weekend, a super creamy (try triple crème, hello) Brie and mild blue that was deliciously soft after I let it sit out for a bit. A blue that acts like a Brie, which is already the company's champion cheese. Wicked with some wine (I was tossing back some syrah).

~Oh, and I just have to say I recently enjoyed the best darned eggs ever, from Soul Food Farm in Pleasant Valley near Vacaville—I picked up a dozen from the Fatted Calf retail shop at the Oxbow Public Market in Napa, and yes they were $7, and yes, the yolks reminded me of the eggs I used to get in Italy. I cherished each and every fried and poached egg I made for those two weeks, worth every penny.

And hey, thanks to all of you who entered the Comedy for Kids contest—I know that was a hot ticket. Congrats to Ken A. who won the pair o' tickets! I'll be doing more giveaways soon!

Catch ya on the flip side,

~Marcia

the chatterbox: April 15, 2008

~ANCHOR & HOPE~, the upscale fish shack from the Town Hall and Salt House crew is opening next Tuesday, April 22. To recap, the warehouse space will have 75 seats, and a 35-foot-long zinc counter. Sarah Schafer's menu reads like a seafood fantasy: brandade, chowder, smoked trout, fried Ipswich clams, Portuguese-style clam stew, and of course lots of raw seafood and a killer lobster roll ($21). There are also some pork ribs, stuffed guinea breast, and a hanger steak for the fans of the non-finned. You can drool over the menu here. I'm intrigued with the warm sea urchin, and crayfish ravioli. Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm, dinner Sun–Thu 5:30pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm. 83 Minna St. at First, 415-501-9100.

I had a reader asking me about the new wine bar, La Vinoteca, opening up on Union Street. For the record, I have to make the announcement that I refuse to cover, mention, or promote any businesses run and owned by ~LUISA HANSON~. I've heard too many horror stories, and after what happened to the John Barleycorn, well, 'nuff said. She buys too many buildings in the City and puts in incredibly mediocre businesses, often squeezing out establishments that were important to the neighborhood. The latest I've heard is she is taking over the building where ~CAFÉ MARITIME~ is located, so owner Mark Mitcheltree will be out. Thankfully it's still a ways off (like two and half years), so he'll continue to offer his tasty seafood, fresh shellfish, and late-night hours—a lot of folks in the industry who work in that area appreciate the late hours (until 1am), and the full bar. Mitcheltree will eventually look for another place to locate the business (at least he has some time), but man, he's put a lot of work into building his business on that stretch of Lombard. It's a shame to have to pick up and move elsewhere, but he's optimistic about finding a good spot when the time comes. For now, the lobster rolls, late night specials, and Fernies remain in full effect. 2417 Lombard St. at Scott, 415-885-2530.

So after ten years of business, some freshening up is happening at ~MAGNOLIA PUB & BREWERY~ in the Upper Haight: the restaurant will be getting a brand-new bar and tabletops, all built from reclaimed Douglas fir from the old Levi Strauss building on Valencia Street. They're also repainting, fiddling with some light fixtures, giving the booths a makeover, and adding a new beer board. (Mmmmm, beer.) Plus a new logo is en route. Magnolia will be closing for a little bit in mid-May for the repairs and changes, stand by for actual dates. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic, 415-864-7468.

Over in the Fillmore, Zao is officially closed as of last week, and ~PIZZERIA DELFINA~ will now be able to begin construction. They are hoping to be open in July. 2406 California St. at Fillmore.

Another switcheroo: if all goes according to plan, ~HENRY'S HUNAN~ will be opening their fifth location, with this one going into the former Pescheria space. Henry's Hunan has been around since 1974—ever had Marty's Special? Like, yum. They will need to convert Pescheria's Italian kitchen into one that's wok friendly, so look for an opening in the beginning of June or so. 1708 Church St. at 29th.

A tablehopper reader wanted me to be sure I knew about ~MURACCI'S JAPANESE CURRY & GRILL~ in FiDi: here's what he said, for the benefit of us all: "It's a Japanese lunch place that specializes in Japanese-style curry. You have probably tried Japanese curry before, and know that it is a bit different than Indian curry. I will keep this brief, but just wanted to let you know that this place is truly authentic, with a team of three Japanese people behind the counter taking orders and making meals to-order, using homemade recipes from the shop's proprietors. In addition to really good Japanese curry (chicken, beef, salmon, katsu, etc.), they also have teishoku (set lunches) with fish, chicken, etc., rice and miso soup. The next time you are in the FiDi, or just have a hankering for some homemade curry, give this place a try." (Thanks Josh!) Mon–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat 11am–5pm. 307 Kearny St. at Bush, 415-773-1101.

This weekend I went to the ~CHOCOLATE SALON AT FORT MASON~ (for all of 15 minutes—it was too packed, so they promise to get a bigger space next year) but the intrepid Bunrabs managed to brave the crowds, get some pics, AND some retail scoop. The swell ~COCO-LUXE CONFECTIONS~ folks are opening a retail shop this summer in the Upper Haight, with an expanded line (perhaps some caramels), and a hot cocoa bar. There will be a few bar stools, and some standing bar space as well. I heart the truffles (German chocolate ganache, anyone?) and the cute packaging and designs always make these chocolates a great gift. 1673 Haight St. at Cole.

I just had to mention the tasty lunch I had at ~BONG SU~ last week for a Friday meeting. It's hard to beat the "power lunch" special, for $17, which gives you the choice of one dish each from four first course and second course dishes. Of course I had to have my favorite, the shrimp cupcakes, followed up by the equally messy bun cha noodles. Bong Su has a chic atmosphere, and is a great spot for a quieter lunch scene. 311 Third St. at Folsom, 415-536-5800.

I know, tax time, no fun. If my write-up a few weeks back on ~O IZAKAYA LOUNGE~ got you hungry, or curious, well, tonight's the night to check it out. They will be offering the happy hour menu all night long (normally offered Mon–Thu 5pm–7pm). Happy hour drinks are only $3 (draft beer, house sake, well drinks), and the shichimi fries are $3, spiced chicken wings are $5, and yakimono is $1.50 per skewer. Hotel Kabuki, 1625 Post St. at Laguna, 415-614-5431.

Then, the day after, on April 16th, Cav Wine Bar & Kitchen is hosting their second annual ~THE DAY AFTER–$5 GLASSES NIGHT~. No, horn rims are not going to be available—it's about some vino, darling. I say stick around for dinner, too. 1666 Market St. at Gough, 415-437-1770.

Happy birthday to ~NOPA~, which turned two on April 11. Bless them for their little gem salad, their pork chop, their grilled broccoli, and serving us such good eats and drinks until 1am. Every. Darn. Night.

Here's a little something that came across my desk: "In a gentle form of protest to the government of California making every effort to devalue the public education system through budget cuts and proposed mass layoffs of teachers, Lark Creek Restaurant Group has called for a ~TEACHER APPRECIATION MONTH~ throughout May at all of their San Francisco Bay Area restaurants (One Market Restaurant and LarkCreekSteak in San Francisco; The Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur; Lark Creek Walnut Creek; and Yankee Pier in Larkspur, SFO, Lafayette and at Santana Row in San Jose). Every teacher who presents his or her teacher identification card will receive $10 off his or her bill. If multiple teachers dine together, the bill will be reduced by $10 for each teacher. There is no limit to the number of times a teacher can receive the discount, nor is there a minimum amount they have to spend."

I was fortunate to actually win a pass to the ~TASTE3 CONFERENCE~ last year thanks to Heidi Swanson of 101 Cookbooks, who donated the pass for the annual Menu for Hope fundraiser. It's an inspiring event, presented by Robert Mondavi Winery at COPIA, in Napa, and is running this year from July 17–19, 2008. It attracts a very tapped-in audience from the food and wine industries, like restaurateurs, sommeliers, chefs, retailers, media, designers, scientists, academics, foodies and wine enthusiasts. (Previous speakers include Thomas Keller, Drew Nieporent, Eleanor Coppola, and others.) Some people can afford it, but for those who can't, a limited number of fellowships are available, which will cover all registration costs for the conference (transportation and lodging, however, are the responsibility of the recipient). Applications will be reviewed by a panel and fellowships awarded in early May 2008. To apply for a fellowship, please answer the below and email (not as attachment but in the body of the email) to mia [at] taste3 [dot] com by April 25, 2008. Awardees will be notified on or before May 15, 2008. Good luck!

1) What is your passion; what inspires you in your life?
2) Tell us about yourself and your background.
3) Why do you want to attend Taste3?
4) What would your participation bring to the Taste3 community?

Here's another big tryout happening: casting for ~TOP CHEF 5~! Bravo is coming to San Francisco on Monday, April 21st, to hold an open casting call at Postrio (545 Post St.) from 10am–2pm. They want dynamic chefs from all backgrounds to come by and meet with them. They are looking for "chefs with a passion for food, creativity, a knowledge of cooking techniques and trends, and oodles of charisma." They continue, "We're excited to meet everyone. All interested candidates should come to the open call whether or not they have started their application package. Please know, however, that it is to your advantage to get your submission elements in right away; you'd be ahead of the game if you brought your application video and completed application to the open call." Download the application and learn more at www.BravoTV.com/casting.

Ever wanted to try to master paella? Here's your chance: on Sunday, April 27th, California Table is hosting a ~PAELLA PARTY~ for their monthly food event. The plan is to have all 60 guests participate by following some recipes and making two–three tapas, while their four-foot paella pan is cookin' up the good stuff! California Table has a space in Bernal with a large and comfy inner studio space as well as a spacious backyard where they will have the paella pan. Sangria and wine will be flowin', plus some aguas frescas. You can read more at going.com/paella. $65. Starts at 1pm.

I totally had fun checking out the Passover dinner at ~DELFINA~ last year. It's coming up again, running April 19–25, when Delfina will offer special dishes inspired by Passover. It's not a seder, but a weeklong, a la carte menu celebration of the holiday, featuring special seasonal dishes that will change throughout the week. Menus may include: Watson Farms abbacchio with fava beans; brisket a few different ways; carciofi alla giudea; poached bass with gelatina and walnut sauce; veal tongue dolce-forte; risi bisi (if there are peas), rigatoncini with luganega meatballs; artichokes and green olives and an edible seder plate (you'll see). They'll have matzoh ball soup every night (with walnuts in the middle—a Stoll family recipe), matzoh ribollita, and Passover matzoh crostini, along with their usual dishes too. As the Delfina folks say, "Keep in mind that it's not kosher and we make no claims as to authenticity—only to deliciousness and fun. Hope to see you there!" Call 415-552-4055 for reservations.

So, I mentioned last week that ~KOLIN VOZZOLER~ of Restaurant Gary Danko was moving to a restaurant in the Peninsula: now I can reveal that he will be the executive chef of Marché Restaurant, beginning May 1. He'll be putting seven years of culinary experience from working at Restaurant Gary Danko to work, five years as a sous chef and three years as the executive sous chef. 898 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 650-324-9092.

Over in the East Bay, there are a couple projects brewing on Shattuck. First, Wendy Brucker and Roscoe Skipper of Rivoli are opening ~CORSO TRATTORIA~ on May 7th in the former Phoenix Pastificio space. The 50-seat restaurant will be a casual Italian trattoria, specializing in Florentine cuisine, with pizza, a full bar, and an all-Italian wine list. Elaine Rivera is the chef de cuisine under Brucker—she was formerly at Oliveto. Dinner to start (only large groups can make reservations), then lunch kicks in one week later, and weekend brunch a week after that. 1786 Shattuck Ave. at Delaware, Berkeley, 510-848-7100.

And then practically across the street, coming later this summer will be ~CIOCCOLATA DI VINO~, a dessert and wine café. Owner Rebecca Bernstein is putting together a menu that is based around desserts and wine, but some small plates will be offered as well. Pastries will be served in the morning (baked by Bernstein), and the menu will morph into some lunchtime-apropos and evening offerings. Look for an Italian focus on both the food and wine; dessert wines, port, and specialty hot chocolates will also be served. The vibe will be casual yet chic, with a living room style, but not bohemian (read: not hippie). 1801 Shattuck, Suite C, at Delaware, Berkeley.

the regular: San Tung

See that large group of people hovering outside that restaurant? Yeah, that's exactly where you're headed: ~SAN TUNG~, AKA where chicken wing lovers go to eat. And being the Sunset, you'll be able to enjoy a nice wind tunnel while waiting outside. Brrrr, fabulous. Don't even think about coming here on the weekend—unless you feel like battling a sea of families and rowdy packs of young ones out on the town and fired up on Tsingtaos. Go midweek in the late afternoon if you can.

If you are driving, work as a team, yo: drop someone off to scribble a name on the whiteboard while the poor driver circles around for parking (it can be a beeyotch out there, bring your parking Buddha and all the "car-ma" you can muster). Stick near the door so you hear your name. In fact, keep an eye on the dry-erase board if you can—the order can get "complicated" really quickly (foul play? hmmm…).

Finally, something like 45 minutes later, you get seated. I know, you're like, this better be worth it. Have a bite of the complimentary kimchee (this place is a Korean-Chinese hybrid) and at last, it's time to order up. Sure, what's not to like about shrimp and leek dumplings ($7.25), or fried potstickers ($6.50)? Neither are the most stellar examples of their category, but they're an okay way to get the ball rolling—they still manage to scratch that dumpling itch.

Let's get to it. The real reason you're here is the original dry fried chicken wings ($9). You can get diced chicken, or wet, but for your first time out, dry wings is the correct answer on this multiple-choice exam—you can do diced next time (unless you're in a larger group and are there to feast, order up!). The wings are deep fried in crack, and then glazed in a sticky-sweet sauce that's garlicky, gingery, a touch constarchy, and cracky. I can't even imagine how many wings the kitchen blazes through a night. It's mind-boggling. KFC has nothing on this joint.

A close second on the consumption chart are the dry sautéed string beans ($7.50), flash fried and tossed in a garlicky sauce with some awesome Chinese pickles (try it, you might like it). You'll see this dish on every table.

The menu is extensive, and you can try things like a refreshing and springy starter of jellyfish with cucumber ($9), or perhaps some sizzling rice soup (we warmed up instead with the pork with mustard greens and homemade noodles, $8). Because you can order homemade noodles, if you are into chow mein, this is the place to do it.

Everyone has his or her favorites here (Dry fried beef! Hot and sour soup! Five spice beef noodles! Peanut noodles! Black bean sauce noodles!). Truth be told, nothing really dazzles me on the menu once I sink my teeth in the wings. It's like GAME OVER for everything else. Thank you for playing.

I know, why am I feeding the hype? It only raises the expectations of these wings even more. But whatever, it's an SF culinary rite of passage, like a Gibraltar from Blue Bottle, or a carne asada super burrito from Cancun.

The staff here is usually quite polite, especially when you consider the chaos ("Things fall apart, the center cannot hold"). It's pretty clean. A group of four can eat plentifully and drink a few beers for $20 each. And if you live in the neighborhood, aren't you lucky, you can order take-out. Doh! Did you forget it's closed on Wednesday? Don't fret, you can go next door to Yummy Yummy for din din.

San Tung
1031 Irving St.
Cross: 12th Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94122

415-242-0828

Thu–Tue 11am–9:30pm
Closed Wed

Apps $6–$14
Entrées $7.95–$25

the lush: April 15, 2008

Yesterday was full of cocktail competitions. At Conduit, there was a great turnout for the ~USBG NORTHERN CALIFORNIA REGIONAL COMPETITION~ (guests munched on lamb burgers, soft pretzels, and foie gras crème vanilla profiteroles). First place was Carlos Yturria ("Voluptuous"), second place was Collin Clark ("Clarkwork"), and third place was Tony Devencenzi ("Thyme Out"). Best technical performance: Joe Parilli ("The Reza-Rection"). The USBG national competition will be in Long Beach May 2–4. Congrats and good luck to all!

Over at Cantina, the battle was on for the best Averna cocktail! The top 10 semi-finalists who were competing at the ~AVERNA HAVE COCKTAIL COMPETITION~ included Jacques Bezuidenhout, Shaher Misif, Neyah White, David Shenaut, Jeff Hollinger, Thomas R. Waugh, Manny Hinojosa, Ronaldo Colli, Francesco Lafranconi, and Victoria D'amato-Moran. The cocktails, using Averna as a base ingredient, were judged on their taste, presentation and originality. The two winners were Jeff Hollinger and Thomas Waugh, who will be joining two winners from New York and one from Miami on a trip to Sicily to compete in the finals at the Averna distillery. The grand-prize winner will receive a $1,500 American Express gift card. Bravi, ragazzi!

On April 28th, Duggan McDonnell, AKA Shotzi, from Cantina is teaching a cocktail class, ~FROM SPICY TO SWEET~, with La Cocina. He will lead attendees in a class designed to pair Latin-style cocktails with a variety of sweet and spicy foods from Central to South America. All participants also get a handful of recipe cards and useful information, just in case you forget some of the recipes on the way home. Isabel Pazos from El Buen Comer and Dilsa Lugo of Los Cilantros will be providing the vittles. Tickets are $120 for drinks, dinner, and a chance to get behind the bar. And a large portion of your ticket is tax-deductible. E-mail caleb [at] lacocinasf [dot] org or sign up at Brown Paper Tickets. 6:30pm–8:30pm. 580 Sutter St. at Mason.

Sunday, April 20th, there is a ~PIEMONTE WINE TASTING SEMINAR~ at Ottimista Enoteca-Cafe. Wine director Don Jost will lead an in-depth tasting and discussion on the region of Piemonte, covering the basics of Piemonte's history, geography, cuisine and native grapes as you taste six different Piemontese wines paired with a variety of traditional dishes. Cost: $55/per person, includes educational materials, wine tasting, and small plates. 3pm–5pm. To sign up, call or email melissa [at] ottimistasf [dot] com. 1838 Union St. at Octavia, 415-674-8400.

Attention singles: Parties That Cook and Crushpad announce the launch of ~COOKING CRUSH~, an evening of wine tasting and cooking for singles. The official kickoff event will take place Thursday, May 1st, at Crushpad's state-of-the-art winemaking facility in San Francisco. You'll get a tour of the winery, an explanation of key steps in the winemaking process, try some comparative barrel tastings, and then have a cooking lesson. Singles will be split into coed teams to work on an array of dishes designed to pair with the wines (yes, you get to eat them when you're done preparing them). After the event, copies of the recipes, digital photos, and email address aliases will be sent to the group. Can't make this one? Cooking Crush events will be offered on a monthly basis in San Francisco. Visit the site or call 1-888-907-2665 to purchase tickets to Cooking Crush. Tickets are $95 per guest, space is limited. 6pm–9pm

the socialite: Taste 2008

Root Division is hosting ~TASTE 2008~, an evening celebrating the beauty of art and food in San Francisco. TASTE 2008 will feature 8–10 acclaimed local chefs and over 15 visual artists for a night of food, drink, music, and art. Proceeds benefit local emerging artists, as well as Root Division's free after school art classes for Bay Area youth.

Participating restaurants and chefs include Andalu; Bar Bambino; Brick Restaurant & Bar; Cook Club; El Buen Comer & La Cocina; Maverick; Ozumo; and Zazil Coastal Mexican Cuisine.

Other offerings at the event include treats by Kara's Cupcakes, Ritual Coffee Roasters, and Trumer Pilsner, as well as a silent auction of gift certificates from over 30 Bay Area restaurants, spas, salons, and other venues, plus small artworks by local emerging artists.

A limited number of VIP tickets will be available, offering a private and advanced opportunity to experience TASTE 2008 at its fullest. In addition to early access (6pm) to appetizers, artwork, and specialty cocktails, each VIP ticket includes a special musical performance by Leyna Noel, a limited edition screen-printed bag by Rickshaw Bagworks filled with goodies and gifts from various venues around town.

TASTE 2008
Thu., April 17, 2008

3175 17th St.
Cross: South Van Ness
San Francisco, CA

415-863-7668
website

7:30pm–10:30pm

VIP ticket: $150
Regular ticket: $75 pre-sale/$100 at the door

the socialite: Dining Out for Life

~DINE OUT FOR LIFE~ and 25% of your food bill will benefit the HIV prevention programs of the STOP AIDS Project, a non-profit organization providing services to those living with HIV/AIDS. Choose a restaurant and dine out with your friends this Thursday! Whether you're in the mood for fancy French dining or a homey Italian meal, there are options for everyone, with a little something for every taste and budget. Some participants include Delfina, Foreign Cinema, Maverick, and Rubicon (you'll find tablehopper reviews for these places in "the regular").

Wherever you go, be sure to check out the raffle envelopes at the restaurant. If you can't attend, you can still participate through the raffle by buying tickets online here.

Dine Out for Life
Thu., April 24, 2008

Various locations

website