Gitane

Photos by Jeff Dow.

With this lousy economy, I have been feeling the possibility of a jaunt to Europe becoming, well, less and less possible. (Of course it's when all the fabulous airfare deals pop up, pffft.) So even though globetrotting is on hold for many of us, glamour should not be forgotten. Fortunately the duo of evenings I have spent at ~GITANE~ (French for gypsy) have given me the little shot in the arm of savoir-faire and sherry and Euro-sass I've been aching for.

Ladies, put your heels and lipstick on and let that hair down. As for the gents, dab on some cologne, and polish those shoes. It's date night. Whoever is in charge of said date, I recommend you make a reservation ahead of time--walk-ins can encounter a wait at this petite and popular boîte. And since the teeny-tiny kitchen is open until midnight, don't rule out a dinner on the later side. And study your map, because you're going to want to confidently lead your partner in crime to this location hidden in an alley, just across the way from Café Claude, owner Franck LeClerc's other restaurant. Aimlessly wandering the back streets of the Financial District is not hot.

Sure, the heated outdoor tables have alfresco appeal, but for your first spin here, you gotta eat inside. The juicy décor here thrills me to the tips of my red fingernails. It's not going to be for everyone (read: minimalists in black turtlenecks), but there is no denying the singular swank style of this place. I tip my Philip Treacy hat (ha, I wish) to the designer, Charles Doell of Mr. Important. There's nowhere in the city that rocks a funky look like Gitane's, although I could say she may have a distant south-of-the-border cousin: Lolo.

The two-level space is densely packed with luscious colors, enticing textures and patterns, reflective surfaces that shimmer like lip gloss, and swish eclectic pieces. It all feels so well chosen and curated. Within five minutes of soaking it all in you'll feel emboldened, with pockets full of flirt.

There's a downstairs bar, a hit with the after-work crowd, and definitely a prime spot to start exploring the list of Dominic Venegas's flavor-layered cocktails, with many featuring sherry and exotic ingredients. Don't be intimidated by something called Velvet Falernum or Cherry Heering. And no, they are not ladies of the evening, although I am suddenly getting great ideas for cheeky Halloween characters... Anyway. Ask questions, be curious, and let the bartenders do their thing, because you're in capable hands. I enjoyed tasting some of the sherries, too. I just might end up like one of those old ladies with a strong penchant for the stuff.

Don't wait too long to go to the restroom, because odds are good there will be a wait--there's only one for the entire place. But boy, is it a good one, which is why people are probably lingering in there for too long.

Hungry? Okay, upstairs you go. The vibe is like you just walked in on your friend's after-hours supper club in Paris, circa 1972--the tables are tight, and the atmosphere is definitely intimate, with a good-looking and mixed crowd that is further flattered by the seductive lighting. (Did that guy just wink at you? Odds are good.) Servers are friendly and attentive--and in wicked good shape because they're running up and down the stairs all night.

The fan favorite on chef Lisa Eyherabide's Mediterranean-Basque inspired menu seem to be the smoky and sweet bacon bonbons ($9), sautéed prunes stuffed with goat cheese, wrapped in smoked bacon, and then speared with a toothpick, resting in a decadent port demi-glace. The servers thankfully warn guests that the bonbons may be tempting but they can also be scary hot, so don't immediately pop one into your mouth. These little bites are big on flavor, so one, maybe two are all you need.

The croquetas ($13) are more like crab cakes really, so if you're a crab cake fan, this trio should please you. I found the radicchio underneath to be too bitter for an accompaniment--the winning side for me was the fried red and green bell peppers that came with the chipirones ($12). I'd like to be able to order these crispy strips as a side dish. And what are chipirones, you ask? Grilled and stuffed squid, with a filling of chorizo, rice, olives, and herbs--their mild and rustic filling actually reminded me of some of the homey dishes I've tasted in Greece.

Here are a few other dishes you'll find on the appetizer side of the menu: a couple salads ($9-$10), grilled eggplant rollups ($10), bastilla with duck and chicken ($12), stuffed quail ($16), and marinated sardines ($10). There's also a cheese plate ($15) for those who just want a little something-something to go with their wine. I also grazed off a little bar snack plate that wasn't on the menu, with almonds and a few other bites--perfect with a glass of sherry.

I tried the pizzas on each visit, and while I immediately gravitate to any pizza with an egg on it, the Gitane ($16) had too many ingredients on it for my taste (chorizo, mushrooms, mozzarella, tomato sauce, and the afore-mentioned egg). I prefer the simplicity of the Serrano ($15), with serrano ham, arugula, and cheese. The cheese is luscious, and the crust has a pleasing flavor. It's not one of my favorite pizza crusts in town (I was left wondering if the wood-fired oven is hot enough?), but it's a good one.

The mains include some finger-licking-good pork ribs ($12/$23)--but the flavor profile (which included soy and honey) didn't quite jive with the rest of the menu. (That damned gypsy, she must have picked up some cooking tips during her Eastern travels.) There is also the cataplana ($24), a hearty fish stew with some feisty chorizo, monkfish, and Manila clams in a delicious lobster bisque. The tricky part about mixed seafood dishes like this one is getting everything cooked just right--the monkfish was overdone, but the fingerling potatoes were spot on.

There is also rack of lamb, steak, and a couple tajines and fish dishes, all ranging from $16-$28. The menu reads a bit heavy to me, and with all the women dining here, I feel like it will benefit from some tweaks to keep them coming back. I'm going to be updating this review soon, because I trust the menu will keep evolving. I also want to see the execution of the dishes become more fine-tuned--with the higher price-point, my expectations go up as well.

The French press coffee service hit the spot, and the beignets ($8) with a trio of dipping sauces are a fitting finale to share. There is also the quatre quart ($8), a vanilla pound cake that is finished in the wood-burning oven, giving it a nice caramelization. Pretty presentation, too.

So while I gotta say the food didn't bewitch me (and oh how I wish it did), it's funny how the ambiance, service, chic crowd, and a good wine buzz off the Spanish-Portuguese-French list from Sean Diggins can count for a lot. All in all, quite enchanting. I just think the gypsy needs to settle into her new home a little more.

Gitane
6 Claude Ln.
between Bush and Sutter
and Grant and Kearny
San Francisco, CA 94108

415-788-6686
website

Tue-Sat 5:30pm-12am
Bar until 1am

Apps $9-$16
Entrées $14-$28
Desserts $7-$8