April 3, 2012

April 3, 2012

Photo from Chez Panisse on Facebook.

I have been sitting on this news for a couple months, and of course I get this release minutes after my column posts. Today ~CHEZ PANISSE~ officially announces chef Jean-Pierre Moullé is retiring from his position. In a press release from Chez Panisse, Alice Waters writes, “Jean-Pierre will of course remain a vital member of the Famille Panisse. He will oversee special events and return to the restaurant from time to time to cook and to continue the marvelous tradition of the Chez Panisse teaching kitchen. Over the last year he has been invaluable in bringing along his successors, Jerome Waag and Cal Peternell who will be sharing the downstairs chef position for the next year, Jerome for summer 2012 and Cal for winter 2012. Beth Wells will continue as Café co-chef and Nathan Alderson will join her in that role.” Further details/clarification: Cal is going to be moving from upstairs to downstairs, and Jerome Waag officially begins his new position (previously held by David Tanis) on May 1st.


Hubba, a hoagie! Photo from 1058hoagie.

The very sick mind behind ~DELI BOARD~, Adam Mesnick, is launching ~1058HOAGIE~ later this month (he’s targeting mid-April). Like the original Deli Board, you’ll be able to pick up a hoagie from the Deli Board back door a couple nights a week, and they will also be delivering hoagies in the SoMa area via bike messenger. Hoagies will be served cold and on sesame seed rolls for about $10 for a 12-inch sandwich. Examples include the #1 (capicola, mortadella, Genoa salami, provolone, seasoned onions, cherry peppers, shredduce [thinly shredded lettuce], shhh sauce [house pepper/garlic sauce], salt and pepper, oil and vinegar); the #2 (roast beef, provolone, seasoned onions, horsey sauce, shredduce, s&p, o&v); and the #5 (New York smoked salmon, green onion cream cheese, sprouts, seasoned onions, shredduce, capers).

Service is probably going to coincide with Giants night games. You can follow 1058hoagie on Twitter and Facebook for updates on the schedule; (website coming soon). 1058 Folsom St. at 7th St., 415-552-7687.


Orders at Truck Stop Cafe; photo from Facebook.

All kinds of pop-ups this month, starting this Wednesday April 4th: Jake Godby of Humphry Slocombe is back at Truck for ~TRUCK STOP CAFE~. Here’s a peek at the menu, which includes sticky hominy fritters with “Hidden Valley” yogurt ($7), duck fat Chex mix ($5), and a fried chicken sandwich ($10) with a biscuit and pimento cheese slaw. There are also some desserts, like a chocolate tart with chestnut caramel and olive oil ice cream ($8). 6pm-10pm. 1900 Folsom St. at 15th St.

Also this Wednesday, Shotwell’s Bar in the Mission will be hosting ~SALUMERIA~, the upcoming project from the flour + water crew. Swing by from 6pm-9pm for ricotta-stuffed cherry peppers with boquerones ($5), cheese and cracker plate ($10), ballotine sandwich with peperoncini and green garlic aioli ($10), and Almanac Beer’s Farmhouse Pale Ale ($5). 3349 20th St. at Shotwell.

On Friday April 6th, swing by Galette 88 for dinner (at either 6pm or 8pm) from chef Lauren Kiino and her ~IL CANE ROSSO~ team. The four-course springtime dinner will include an amuse of goat cheese and black pepper gougère, followed by a starter of salt cod and soft egg fritter with a Zuckerman Farm asparagus and walnut salad with green garlic aioli. Entrée options are spring lamb with braised artichokes and potatoes with black olive tapenade, or vegetarian wild nettle and mushroom crêpes with pimentón and crescenza cheese. Dessert will be almond pavlova with vanilla-poached rhubarb and Meyer lemon cream. $40; wine pairings for $20. RSVP via email; please include number of guests, desired seating time, and contact info. 88 Hardie Pl., off Kearny, between Bush and Sutter.

Mark your calendar for two special ~HAPA RAMEN~ pop-ups at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight on Tuesday April 10th and April 24th. But instead of ramen, expect preview menu items for Richie Nakano’s upcoming brick-and-mortar restaurant, HAPA, on Fillmore Street. 6pm-10pm.

And on Saturday April 14th, the ~GRILLEDCHEEZGUY~ is hosting a pop-up dinner at the Old Skool Cafe in Bayview to celebrate Grilled Cheese Month, and as preparation for this year’s Grilled Cheese Invitational. Reservations and more details here. Mendell Plaza, 1429 Mendell St. (3rd St. and Oakdale/Palou).

SFoodie mentions ~HAYAHON~, a “roving izakaya” serving ramen, yakitori, small plates, and a little bit of Hawaiian flair. Partners in the venture are Mark Hayashida (Los Angeles Ritz-Carlton, the sushi bar at the San Jose branch of Blowfish, Google, Skool) and Johnny Honda (Google). On Tuesdays, you can find them at Cafe Royale (800 Post St. at Leavenworth), and Thursday through Saturday nights at SPACE 1582, formerly Mercury Lounge, at 1582 Folsom St. at 12th St.

Chef Ravi Kapur’s ~LIHOLIHO YACHT CLUB~ is back at Citizen’s Band with a new menu on Monday April 9th, 16th, and 23rd. Make reservations on OpenTable via Citizen’s Band’s website.

After noticing this help wanted ad on Craigslist, I figured out the pastry chef of ~JARDINIÈRE~, Lisa Lu, has departed. (Her departure has been confirmed, although her replacement has not been hired yet.)

Through the grapevine, I learned she is going to work with Thomas McNaughton (flour + water, Central Kitchen)—she is joining the team as the pastry chef for the upcoming ~CENTRAL KITCHEN~.


Chai-Yo’s new interior. Photo by Rebecca Kinney. © tablehopper.com.

Russian Hill residents may notice a new look for the Thai ~CHAI-YO~ on Polk: there’s a new sign, upholstery, tabletops, and a second section is being expanded—it will go from about 8 or 10 seats to 20. 1331 Polk St. at Pine, 415-771-2562.

~ENJOY VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT~ is going to be opening a third location sometime this month in the former Morph space in the Richmond. 5344 Geary Blvd. at 17th Ave.

I was very sad to learn from a tablehopper reader that ~PASTORES~ in Bernal, known for Irma’s amazing chilaquiles, is now closed. There is reportedly a change of ownership sign in the window, and the new owners are opening “The Cave Grill.” If anyone knows where Irma can be found, please let me know! 3486 Mission St. at Cortland, 415-642-5385.


Boot and Shoe Service exterior; photo from Facebook.

Chef-owner Charlie Hallowell (Pizzaiolo, Boot and Shoe Service) is never one to sit still. Diablo Dish brings news of another Hallowell Oakland project, “a bar and grill concept, [that] will be right across the street from the recently expanded Boot & Shoe in the former home of the Lounge Nail Spa and Boutique at 3307 Grand Avenue.” It sounds like the heart of the kitchen will be a wood-burning grill, and “the space will also serve as the new HQ for the overall charcuterie program,” plus cocktails, and a late-night scene until a (hopeful) last call at 2am. Sounds pretty nascent, and it could be a year off.

The Inside Scoop chimes in with a few more details: it’s also going to be a full-service butcher shop, with the meats cooked on a grill and plancha, plus a raw bar. A potential name is also being tossed around: ~PENROSE AND SONS FINE MEATS AND SPIRITS~ (Hallowell’s grandfather’s name was Penrose). 3307 Grand Ave. at Elwood, Oakland.

The Scoop mentions ~BOOT AND SHOE SERVICE~ is now serving weekday lunch Tue-Fri from 11am-2pm, plus weekend brunch from 10am-2pm. Most of the pizzas and starters on the dinner menu are available, plus some sandwiches.

And fans of ~MARZANO~ will be happy to learn they are expanding into the old hardware store that was adjacent to the restaurant on Park Boulevard. It will just about double their dining room space and seating. If all goes well, they should open on Wednesday April 18th, and are planning to have a little celebration that day. 4214 Park Blvd. at Glenfield, Oakland, 510-531-4500.

Interested in taking some Ethiopian cooking classes? Chowhound reports Fetlework Tefferi of Café Colluci and Brundo (an Ethiopian market and spice shop) is offering classes (PDF) in spice blending, coffee roasting, and Ethiopian cooking.


Louise Franz; photo from Pizzalina blog.

Hopefully opening this fall in San Anselmo will be ~PIZZALINA~, a Neapolitan-style pizzeria (with a local, organic, and sustainable focus) and wine bar from owner Louise Franz. She has trained and is certified as a pizzaiolo with the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, and has been working for the last year in pizzerias such as Picco and Rosso.

Pizzas will be made from naturally yeasted dough with a four-day proofing method, hand-pulled mozzarella, and family-made salumi, and cooked in a Mugnaini wood-fired oven. Other offerings on the seasonal menu will include antipasti, salads, soup, market main courses of the day, pastas (like maccheroni alla chitarra with lamb ragu), and Straus soft-serve ice cream with homemade toppings for dessert. Ex-husband and restaurateur Mark Franz is lending his expertise, and her brother Sean Crowley (formerly AQUA, and now sales director for Paradigm) is putting together the wine program, with an emphasis on California, Marin, and Italian wines. There will be a substantial wine on tap program featuring some unusual varietals and specialty blends, and local beers on tap and in the bottle.

The former Round Table Pizza at Red Hill Shopping Center will be converted by William Craig Architect, George Federighi Kitchen Design, and Josh Klein Builders. There will be 48 seats inside, and 20 seats outside. The atmosphere will be rustic-casual, with an open kitchen. They hope to get through the permit process in a couple months, and are aiming for a mid-August/September opening. 914 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. at Shaw Dr., San Anselmo.

A tablehopper reader let me know his beloved ~TSUKIJI~ is closed; the owners were reportedly evicted. 24 Sunnyside Ave. at Parkwood St., Mill Valley.


David Chang; photo: © tablehopper.com.

Did you get your ticket yet? Last week I mentioned on Twitter that chef David Chang (Momofuku empire leader, Lucky Peach) will be in town for a City Arts & Lectures conversation with Adam Savage (host of Mythbusters). The event is Tuesday July 17th at the Herbst Theatre. Tickets are going quickly, so get yours now. 8pm. $22-$27.


Americano photo by Cesar Rubio.

Nothing quite like going over your spending for the year to make you want to rein things in. Or maybe you’re looking down the barrel of a big, fat tax payment. Fortunately a few places around town have some offers this month to help you pinch a few pennies:

~KULETO’S~ in Union Square is celebrating 25 years in business, and to celebrate is offering lunch customers 25% off their total bill this spring. Swing by for some of chef Robert Helstrom’s salumi and handmade pastas from now until April 30th.

~LE P’TIT LAURENT~ in Glen Park is offering a special three-course prix-fixe dinner menu for $20.12, available Sunday through Thursday through April 15th. 699 Chenery St. at Diamond, 415-334-3235.

~AMERICANO~ at Hotel Vitale is offering dining guests half-off bottles of wine Monday through Friday during lunch (11:30am-2:30pm) and dinner (5:30pm-10pm). The offer is available through April 15th.

Don’t forget you can get half-off on all bottles of wine on Tuesday nights at ~CAFÉ DES AMIS~, and now ~LUELLA~ in Russian Hill is offering the same deal.

Also on Russian Hill, this Wednesday April 4th, ~WILLIAM CROSS WINE MERCHANTS~ is hosting a tasting from 6pm-9pm called Tax Relief Wines. The six wines that will be poured are under $25 and scored over 90 points from the Wine Advocate or Wine Spectator. Flight is $15.