This week's tablehopper: love handles.


A closer look at the newly opened Merigan’s Italian combo. Yeah, it’s amazing. Photo: ©

Friday Friday Friday! And there’s nary a cloud in sight. Reason number 6,843 why I live in California. This week was chock-full of reasons why I live here, let me tell you. The private dinner party on Tuesday evening with Dana Cowin and the Food & Wine team at Cotogna made me pinch myself (actually, pinch my love handles) numerous times. The parade of uni on squid ink brioche, the famed ravioli, juicy porchetta, lamb of your dreams, jaw-dropping prime rib roast (the very one you’ll see on the December cover), it all made me say, “Damn, I’m lucky” many times, both in my head and to other guests there. Thanks to all for the amazing night!

Fall was in full effect at a beautiful dinner on Wednesday at Tartine Bakery, cooked with soul by Samin Nosrat, highlighting the recipes in Chad Robertson’s stunning new book, Tartine Book No. 3. Heirloom grains in effect! From sablés made with barley and cheddar cheese, to a chard and sheep’s milk ricotta galette with a kamut-kefir crust, to the satisfying and lightly sweet oat porridge bread…it all made me pinch those love handles again.

So, have you had any white truffles yet? I am so ready. Here’s a cheat sheet I wrote up on, with the restaurants that are serving white truffles right now, and which dishes to order! It’s time for tajarin.

I also have my weekly Tablehopping column ready at the Bay Guardian—you have to read about the buckwheat waffle with salmon roe and crème fraîche at Linea Caffe!

Okay, today’s (late) issue has a review of Betelnut for you, and some 707 news to boot.

Buon weekend!

Marcia Gagliardi

View tablehopper Newsletter from Friday, Nov 15 2013