letter from the tablehopper: July 8, 2008

How are all you hands-free drivin' people doing? (It seems to be quite the topic of the populus this week.) So of course we had a foggy Fourth, but this week is shaping up for full-tilt weather gorgeousness… Meow. I am thrilled to be heading to wine country for some proper heat this weekend, hitting both Napa and Sonoma. Naturally, I will share highlights (but no low-lights, ha ha) next week, and I'm currently working on a Napa jetsetter piece since many of you seemed to like the Healdsburg one. Stand by.

Sadly I am missing this year's Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, but my liver and waistline are singing a chorus of thanks. So, starting next Wednesday, don't be surprised if you don't find many of your favorite bartenders behind the stick. Reason enough for me to head back up to Napa for the TASTE3 conference (July 17th–19th). Am happy to see Dan Barber of Blue Hill & Blue Hill at Stone Barns is returning, plus I'm excited to hear Ben Wallace, the author of The Billionaire's Vinegar. And yay, Ted Allen will be a session host, such a nice guy. Wanna go? Got some dough? There are still tickets left!

So, speaking of fabulous events, I have a "save the date" announcement for you: I'll be hosting the next tablehopper supper on Tuesday July 29th at the inimitable Rubicon! This event will be extra-special, not only because I adore Stuart Brioza's inspired cooking (and his fiancée Nicole Krasinski's one-of-a-kind desserts), but also because we'll be pouring some fantastic wines, including the just-launched Pillow Rd Vineyards' pinot noir, and some killer wines from Ladera Vineyards. (Can you say cabernet? I knew that you could.) Look for all the details about menu, pricing, and making reservations next week! Just mark it on your calendar for now, would love to see you there.



Last week I hosted one of my favorite and certainly most memorable meals in a long time. Now, before you wonder why you weren't invited, it's because this was the first tablehopper dinner with the CHEFS (Conquering Homelessness Through Employment in Food Service) class! For those of you who may remember, the kind folks at Bambuddha Lounge, GM Michael Shaulis and executive chef Jessica Gorin, generously offered to host the dinner when they saw I was trying to gather donations to take the class out to dinner.

Look for a full recap of this very special evening in this week's the regular—I even have a guest reviewer from the class, yay! I also posted a flickr album with a bunch of pics here. Many thanks to CleanFish, who kindly donated the Laughing Bird Shrimp and Loch Duart salmon for the dinner, plus Modesto Food Distributors Inc., who provided us with Fulton Valley Farms chicken. (Hearts to you both.)

Many, many grazie to you, dear readers, who helped raise a total of $1,673 for me to take the class out to a future dinner. Like, whoa! The checks just kept rolling in—it was the best week of mail in my life, lemme tell ya. You all blow my mind with your kindness, and I know the class and program heads are all so touched by your thoughtfulness. I am currently putting together a field trip and dining excursion for the current class, and your donations will go toward the costs to do so. Stand by for the plans on that one. I also plan to make these dinners an ongoing event for each group of new students who start a session in the program, so I plan to apply remaining funds to those dinners in the future. Thank you all for enabling me to give back to our local community in such a tangible way.

Oh, and for those who have a moment, I want to point you to this compelling video about the CHEFS organization that was presented at the recent SummerTini annual fundraiser. It helps show why this program is so dang important, and why I'm all fired up to help support it. Let's rock.

Gratefully yours,
~ Marcia

the chatterbox: July 8, 2008

Downtown just keeps getting interesting, I tell ya. To that end, here's on update on ~GITANE~ in Claude Lane, slated to open at the end of July. Looks like we'll have yet another spiffy place to score our citywide bad habit: yes, pizza. Executive chef Lisa Eyherabide has joined the ranks of local folks getting certified by the VPN (Verace Pizza Napoletana) in the authentic Neapolitan style of pizza making (like some folks at A16 did); it's a weeklong training and certificate program. Gitane will have a wood-burning pizza oven and Eyherabide will be creating about five–six unique pizzas each day.

Some appetizers on the preliminary menu may include items like the delicious-sounding baccalau acras: house-salted Atlantic cod, Yukon gold mashed potato, and diced sweet peppers mixed together and rolled into bread crumbed fritters, deep fried and served with lime aioli (awwww yeah), and mackerel escabèche: an Atlantic king mackerel simmer prepared with a marinade of onions, carrots, bay leaves, Champagne vinegar, and white wine, served with saffron potato salad; mains may include souris d'agneau: locally raised braised lamb hind shank in Rioja red wine, fresh orange juice, orange zest, coriander, accompanied by fire-roasted butternut squash. Here's a sneak peek at a recipe from bar manager Dominic Venegas, in case you're wondering what you're going to be starting your meal with: the Solera is made with Santa Teresa 1796, Lustau Palo Cortado, Velvet Falernum, and a dash of Regan's bitters. Is it the end of July yet? Bring it! 6 Claude Lane at Bush.

Congrats to South Food + Wine Bar who signed the lease on their new place opening in West Hollywood: ~SOUTH ON SUNSET~! They have primo real estate, just opposite the Chateau Marmont, with 140 seats, a full bar, and the L.A.-de rigueur outdoor patio. The executive sous from Glass (Sydney) will be the head chef. The concept will be similar to the San Francisco location, but there will be a bar menu and a bigger wine list. Permits pending, they are hoping for a December opening. Cheers, mates! 8226 Sunset Blvd. at N. Harper.

Some more glammy news: last week I mentioned some potential local chefs competing on ~IRON CHEF AMERICA~, and this week I got word that Eric Gower, the author of The Breakaway Cook and The Breakaway Japanese Kitchen is a judge for the upcoming season. Right on, Eric!

Since we're speaking Japanese (I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so), Eater had the word that 30-year-old ~TORAYA~ has shuttered. I heard about some local chefs checking the space out a few months ago, but haven't heard anything definitive about who the new tenant is. Yet. 1914 Fillmore St. at Bush.

Yesterday marked the opening of another La Boulange, this one is ~LA BOULANGE DE MARKET~, near Third Street. I spoke with Thomas Lefort of Bay Bread, who said the menu is similar to other Boulanges around town, but will have a limited bread offering. There will be more grab-and-go options for local busy bee workers, a full array of coffee offerings to fuel up with, and there will be catering available for the neighborhood, a first for Bay Bread. There is only outdoor seating available: eight two-tops in all. Initial hours are Mon–Sat 6:30am–5pm. 685 Market St. at 3rd St., 415-512-7610.

This weekend is the grand opening of ~18 REASONS~, a new event space and gallery from the Bi-Rite folks celebrating local food and art. Yes, you savvy San Franciscans, the name is a play on the 17 Reasons sign (check out the logo on the site if you need a hint). In fact, you'll want to check out the site anyway, because that's where you'll find the lineup of all the cool events this space is hosting, from talks to tastings to a wickedly affordable winemaker dinner on July 29th with Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon. Word. This opening weekend's events include: Friday July 11th at 7pm: 18th Hour with Greg Brown (T-Vine Cellars) and Sam Mogannam of Bi-Rite; Saturday July 12th: gallery open 12pm–4pm; Saturday July 12th 2pm–5pm: free cookbook signing with Joyce Goldstein; Sunday July 13th: gallery open 12pm–4pm. 593 Guerrero St. at 18th St., 415-252-9816.

Over in Potrero Hill, another art-oriented project will be opening, this one on Rhode Island Street in a former antique showroom, by early August. It will be called ~PROJECT ONE~, and is shaping up to be an eclectic art gallery/wine bar. The venture will be a collaboration of Joseph Latimore's Galley Sensei in NYC and curator Brooke Waterhouse of the Bay Area. If his name seems familiar, Latimore was also one of the founding partners of the cocktail lounge Otis on Maiden Lane. 251 Rhode Island #3 at 16th St.

Here's some info about a cute new place in Potrero Hill (and a treat for tablehopper readers): opening in the former Petite Patisserie space is ~BAKED. CAKES, SWEETS & TREATS~ from Tina Fisher and her partner, Andrea Ortega. They plan to officially open on Monday July 14th. And how sweet is this? tablehopper subscribers get a free cookie if they come in that Monday and mention tablehopper. (Call and make sure they are open before you head over for your cookie though—I don't want to hear about it if they don't open as planned! Things happen, you know. But if the opening gods are with us, enjoy!) For the first couple of weeks, baked. will be open from 7am–2pm, opening back up at 5pm until 9:30pm on Fridays and Saturdays for you post-dinner folks in the area with a sweet tooth. Or those who just finished hitting their neighborhood dispensary, or maybe just watched a Cheech and Chong movie. Perhaps both. 1415 18th St. at Connecticut, 415-826-9455.

There are some schedule changes for the ~MARCHÉ ON THE SQUARE~ project in Ghirardelli Square: the market opened according to schedule, but it ends up Bar Marche will not open until next Tuesday July 15th, instead of this Wednesday. 900 North Point at Larkin, 415-359-0365.

I was catching up on my neighborhood haps in this month's North Panhandle News, and learned a ~NEW DIVISADERO FARMERS' MARKET~ begins a three-month trial period on Sunday July 13th! Rad. It's through the Pacific Coast Farmers Market Association, who also do the weekly Fillmore market. The NoPa market will be hosted in the parking lot at Divisadero and Grove—yes, the lot by the old Brother-in-Law's BBQ pit, and the medical Mary Jane trailer. (Now you can get a different kind of herb.) Everyone in the neighborhood, and nearby, please come out and support this market! Sundays 10am–2pm. Divisadero St. at Grove.

~1300 ON FILLMORE~ has added Saturday brunch service, with all kinds of dishes to get you fat, like Marty's Hang Town fry; ham-hock hash with eggs any style; cinnamon brioche French toast with maple syrup, roasted apple, and French vanilla bean cream; and barbecue shrimp n' creamy grits. Oh, let's not forget the croque madame, with ham-hock, Gruyere, and a fried egg (call your trainer before going to this brunch, yo). You can waddle in and out on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30am–2:30pm. 1300 Fillmore St. at Eddy, 415-771-7100.

It's ~BASTILLE DAY~ on Monday July 14th. Yup, the frogs will be going nuts. One place I know of that is offering a special menu is Cassis, with a four-course prix-fixe menu for $49.95 (beverages, tax, and gratuity are additional). Their Bastille Day menu can be viewed on the Cassis website. 2101 Sutter St. at Steiner, 415-440-4500.

A super-sleuthy Chowhound has discovered the former chef of Thai House Express on Geary and Larkin has gone to the brand-new ~CHAI THAI NOODLES~ in Oakland, and is offering pretty much the exact same menu as Thai House Express. Even the font is the same. Well. The space sounds small (ten tables). You can read all about it here. According to the Chowhound poster, the hours are 10am–8pm or 9pm—I'd call in advance before heading over since it just opened. 545 B International Blvd. at 6th Ave., Oakland, 510-832-2500.

Also in Oakland, here's an update on what is replacing Jack's Bistro at the Waterfront Hotel in Jack London Square: ~MISS PEARL'S JAM HOUSE~ is back, a project from Joie de Vivre and Joey Altman. You remember that place when it was at the Phoenix Hotel (which was JDV's/Chip Conley's first hotel)? I do. It was opened by Altman back in 1989, but this East Bay redux is being designed by Michael Brennan to be "Miss Pearl's mansion" on a tropical island, with an eclectic style replete with trinkets and antiques that are supposed to conjure up a feeling of sunken treasure. There will also be abalone shell walls with LED backlighting, recycled glass, shell chairs covered in pearl essence, and ceiling fans.

Altman will bring back some dishes from the original Miss Pearl's New World-inspired menu, like crispy catfish fingers, black eyed pea fritters, and jumbo sea scallops in a potato crust, plus new additions will hail from the raw seafood bar, the wood oven for roasting fish and meats, as well as a rotisserie. Altman is consulting on the project for a year, working closely with executive chef Robert Barker, whose background includes Bambara in Salt Lake City, and Emeril's in New Orleans.

There will be two outdoor patios and an entire section of the restaurant devoted to the bar and lounge area. Beverage director Geoffrey Perry, an Oahu native, will be putting together some Hawaiian island cocktail drinks that will feature some lighter Caribbean influences, and in the ultimate throwback move, will be offering the infamous JELL-O shots that Miss Pearl's was known for. As Altman says, "The JELL-O shots started at Miss Pearl's, then went to the college dorm rooms, and now we're taking them back." (Don't say I didn't warn you.) There will also be sangrias, infused rums, rum punches, mojitos, and aged sipping rums on the menu. Miss Pearl's Jam House should be opening in mid-August. Breakfast, weekend brunch, weekday lunch, and dinner nightly. Waterfront Hotel, One Broadway, Oakland, 510-444-7171.

A family friend wanted to let me know the sole restaurant in La Honda has opened (I'd have no job in La Honda, would I?). It's called ~SULLIVAN'S RESTAURANT~, and has moved into the long-closed La Honda House Café space. The restaurant is from husband and wife team Tim and Jane Sullivan (Jane reportedly sports a serious Yorkshire accent). You can read all about it in a piece the San Mateo County Times, but the basics are that they have Yorkshire pudding, shepherd's pie, fish and chips (English style), plus some breakfast on the weekend. And yes, an outdoor patio, with live music amongst the redwoods. Open Fri 5:30pm–10pm, and Sat–Sun 8am–10pm. 8865 La Honda Rd. (Highway 84), La Honda, 650-747-9664.

the regular: tablehopper/ CHEFS dinner at Bambuddha Lounge

This write-up is a special recap of the tablehopper CHEFS (Conquering Homelessness Through Employment in Food Service) dinner, with class/session number 33. This event was generously hosted by ~BAMBUDDHA LOUNGE~ GM Michael Shaulis and executive chef Jessica Gorin—thank you so much for making this night possible, and cheers to your kitchen and attentive service staff, too.

It was quite the evening: we were seated outside at one long table under the cozy heat lamps, 16 of us in all, and executive chef Gorin treated us to one heck of a spread. I was so impressed with how open-minded all the students were—each and every one of them tried the amuse bouche of a raw oyster on the half shell, some experiencing their very first oyster. And only one "meh"! A great start.

It was an evening full of questions, inspiration, and coming together over chef Gorin's globetrotting cuisine that provided an exciting and flavor-loaded platform to discuss a variety of exotic ingredients, preparations, and influences. We also chewed the fat about topics like food writing, the local restaurant reviewing circuit, eating sustainably and locally, dining etiquette, and we also went over the glossary chef Gorin and I prepared, covering any culinary terms and ingredients the students encountered on the menu.

Special thanks to CleanFish, who so kindly donated the Laughing Bird Shrimp and Loch Duart salmon for the dinner, plus Modesto Food Distributors Inc., who provided us with Fulton Valley Farms chicken.

Below I have posted the menu, and instead of writing this week's review, I am happy to pass the baton to student Nina Flower-Moore, who took a bunch of notes all night and wrote up her thoughtful and detailed take on the dinner, with a little feedback from her fellow students. She's got a serious flair for food writing; I'm so impressed, and know you will be, too. I am also posting comments below from the other students with their thoughts on the dinner, enjoy!

I created a flickr album of the event, click here if you'd like to see more pics!

One last thing before we dive in here: one student told me tasting this food made her really want to try harder in the CHEFS program. She said it totally inspired her, and made her see how good food can taste. Another was so excited by the Thai tom yam soup we had that he wanted to make Thai food the base for a menu he was preparing for class. Yeah, that's the stuff, isn't it?

CHEFS PROGRAM DINNER
THURSDAY, JULY 3, 2008

Amuse
Effingham Oyster with Green Tea-Shiso Granite

First Course (Shared Appetizers)
Edamame in Shichimi Togarashi
Prawn Fritters with Siracha Aioli
Mixed Seafood Ceviche with Shrimp Chips

Second Course
Spicy Tom Yam Soup

Third Course (Shared Salads)
Ma-po Duck Salad
Jakarta Salad

Fourth Course (Family Style Entrees and Sides)
Loch Duart Salmon with Yellow Curry
Lemongrass Chicken
Stir-fried Bok Choy and Lotus Root
Coconut Rice

Fifth Course
Assorted Dessert Platters

And now, the review of the meal from guest writer Nina Flower-Moore from CHEFS Session #33:

"We started off with a petite oyster topped with refreshing, lightly sweetened green tea shiso granite. It was succulent, sweet and followed by a mellow brininess. It was reminiscent of the sea as a good oyster should be.




"The sustainably farmed "Laughing Bird Shrimp" Ceviche had a voluptuous mouthfeel, it was flavorful and almost meaty in texture, but tender at the same time. To our delight it was paired with colorful shrimp chips,which resembled a playful interpretation of chips and dip. It was presented in a beautiful maroon colored banana flower petal.

"A hard act to follow, but the mung bean battered prawn fritters were delectable and addictive, served with a siracha aioli, a perfect accompaniment for this outstanding appetizer.



"Our entree "Show Stopper Salmon" is what they should call this dish. Presented in a delicate curry sauce with micro cilantro and crunchy roasted cashews. It was served with coconut rice and baby bok choy. The fish Loch Duart Salmon was tender, flaky and sweet. The coconut rice was fragrant and the bok choy cooked to perfection.



"An additional entree of Lemongrass Chicken was outstanding as well, bronzed on the outside but fully cooked, moist and tender inside.

"Following the meal a chocolate chai bread pudding, the best bread pudding in California, and a slap your mom pineapple tarte tatin.

"A wonderful meal, wonderful ambience, great hosts, great time. Thanks to our chef instructors, CHEFS staff and above all to our sponsors for their support and for believing in us."



Here's a variety of comments from the CHEFS students who attended the dinner:

"The desserts tasted like they were made with love. They took my senses by storm and took me to a happy place." -Paul

"For the first time in 1/2 a century of existence I dined like I belonged to a royal family. Thank you very much." -Dexter



"What a great experience, a five course meal, I've never had one before." -Latoya

"Not my kind of food but I ate everything and it was all good." -Jonathan

"Enjoyed everything, the chef is master of seasoning, nothing was over or under seasoned." -Ron

"Soup was too hot and spicy but I ate it all anyway, it was that good." -Susan

"I ate all five desserts, the Chocolate Chai Bread Pudding sure wasn't Mom's bread pudding. The Tapioca was a blast." -Charles

"WOW, at the first sight of this dish (ceviche) my eyes were preparing my palate for something great!" -Robert

"The Drink: basil, strawberry, soda and lime, a rich deep color, with specks of green basil made me want to chug it down like beer on a hot day." –Robert



"Over-all, I got a lot of inspiration. The whole concept of the meal was great." -Nina

"The presentation was elegant and it all tasted good too."

"I liked the fact that the Chef went out of her way to educate us, joining us at the table and explaining things. She even joined us again after dinner to answer questions."

"The meal as a whole had a nice presentation, wonderful colors, tantalizing smells, every part of this meal left me waiting for the next bite." -Clifford

"The ambience, with open curtains, tropical plants, candlelight and authentic food and tastes made me feel like I was in the Orient." -Tom

"Oh my God folks, let the game begin! The tastes, seasonings, flavors, mouth watering textures and The Sweets..............." -Robert

"Thanks to all of you for making a group of people very happy, I wish you could all have heard their expressions of joy. They were excited, delighted and very grateful. Thanks again. This was successful beyond my wildest dreams and would love to do it again with other classes." –Bill Taylor, Program Manager for CHEFS



Bambuddha Lounge
601 Eddy St.
Cross: Larkin St.
San Francisco, CA 94109

415-885-5088
website

Happy hour:
Wed–Fri 5:30pm–7:30pm
Dinner:
Wed–Sat 6pm–10pm

Lounge:
Fri–Sat 9:30pm–2am

Closed Sun–Tue

the lush: July 8, 2008

Here's on update on ~CLOCK BAR~ by Michael Mina, opening next Tuesday July 15th in the Westin St. Francis hotel in Union Square. The team includes GM Matthew Meidinger, bartender Marco Dionysos (formerly of Tres Agaves), and seasoned bar team Ray Cortez Brown, Estanislado Orona, and Maren West. CLOCK BAR will showcase the standards and classically-inspired cocktails (ranging between $10–$14), not quite reaching some of New York's $20 cocktail price tags, but getting up there. That said, the list is the kind I want to work through from top to bottom, with classics like the Aviation and a Pisco Sour, and the San Francisco Sazerac made with Old Potrero Rye really speaks to me. I've never had a Mary Pickford, which I gotta try. Not particularly because of the Montecristo rum, maraschino, pineapple, and grenadine combo, but because it reminds me of the cheeky bartender from the Cypress Club who used to call me Mary Pickford. Ahhh, memories. There is also a list of 300 wine selections assembled by Mina Group wine director Rajat Parr.

There is a menu of small plates created by Michael Mina and chef Chris L'Hommedieu. I took a look, and it includes a chopped salad with lobster, pancetta and Banyuls vinaigrette; a soft-shell crab po' boy; lamb tenderloin panini, and hello grilled Wolfe Ranch quail with "wild man" mixed greens, grilled peaches, and spring onions.

There are two columns serving as the central focus of the space, topped with ticker clocks showing the time in New York, Rome, Tokyo, San Francisco, Paris and Chicago. The clocks are a reference to the name of the bar itself, inspired by the famous Magneta Grandfather Clock in the main lobby of the hotel that has been a central meeting place in San Francisco since 1907. Open daily 4pm–2am. The Westin St. Francis, 335 Powell St. at Post, 415-354-2735.

Domaine Select Wine Estates is hosting a ~MOON AND MINIMAL INTERVENTION PRODUCED WINE TASTING~ at William Cross Wine Merchants tomorrow (Wednesday July 9th) from 6pm–9pm. You can read more about the event here. $15 per person. William Cross Wine Merchants, 2253 Polk St. at Green, 415-346-1314.

Don't forget next Sunday July 20th is ~PICCINO'S ROSÉ AND PIZZA FESTIVAL~! Piccino will throw open its doors from 11am–5pm; they will crank up the ovens, prep the pizzas, and chill a wide variety of French, Italian, Spanish, and California rosés selected to complement their thin-crust pizzas and salads. Pours will be by the glass and bottle, and, for those who wish to sample widely without getting loopy, they will also be offering 2.5 oz. tastes. With luck, some warm weather will roll in, too. Heck, it's usually pretty darned nice out in Dogpatch anyway. 801 22nd St. at Tennessee, 415-824-4224.

La Cocina and Duggan McDonnell (AKA Shotzi) of Cantina are hosting ~THE MODERN MIXOLOGIST: USING SUMMER'S BOUNTY TO INVENT YOUR OWN DRINKS~ on July 28th from 6:30pm–9pm at Cantina Bar and Gallery. You'll be learning to make up to five cocktails, getting behind the bar and making 'em with farmers' market fresh and premium Latin ingredients, plus you'll be set up with fish tacos and fresh salsas that will keep you from spilling all over yourself. 80% of your $125 event fee is tax-deductible. Buy tickets here. 580 Sutter St. at Mason.

New Belgium Brewing Company (makers of Fat Tire Beer) are having their wild annual bikes and beer festival, ~TOUR DE FAT~, on Saturday July 19th. The event kicks off at 9am with a bike parade, and then there's the Afternoon Ballyhoo (two parts bike rodeo and one part circus), starting at noon. There will be all kinds of entertainment, and I'm not just talking about the crowd. And here's the best part: it's FREE. All proceeds from beer sales ($5 for 16 oz.) will benefit the San Francisco Bike Coalition, and The Bay Area Ridge Trail Council. Read the site for details on the various events. Tour de Fat runs from 9am–4pm at Speedway Meadow in Golden Gate Park.

For you recipe contest lovers: "Amateur chefs across the country are invited to submit their favorite original recipe for the ~RÍAS BAIXAS ALBARIÑO FOOD AND WINE PAIRING CONTEST~. This year, contestants will try to please the palates of talented celebrity judges including winner of Top Chef Season One, Harold Dieterle. So, put on your little white toque and get cookin'. One grand prize winner will receive a $1,000 William-Sonoma gift card and a dinner for two at Perilla, Harold Dieterle's restaurant (valued at $200). Two runners-up will each receive a $250 William-Sonoma gift card. All three winners will receive a selection of Albariño wines. Contest ends October 15th, 2008. For featured recipes, rules, and more information, visit riasbaixaswines.com."

the socialite: Are You What You Cook?

Coming up is ~ARE YOU WHAT YOU COOK?~, a celebrity chef panel discussion hosted by the Asian Culinary Forum (ACF), a new non-profit focused on educating the public on Asian food and culture (this is their launch event).

The panel discussion will feature San Francisco area food experts, including Charles Phan, executive chef of Slanted Door, Eric Gower, author of The Breakaway Cook, Kelly Degala, executive chef at Pres a Vi and Va de Vi, Michele Mah, former executive chef of Ponzu and the upcoming Midi, and Kirti Pant, executive chef of Junnoon. They'll share how they developed their signature styles and how their personal and professional experiences have shaped their vision of Asian cuisine. The moderator is Linda Carucci, chef director, International Culinary School at The Art Institute of California, San Francisco.

Slanted Door and Va de Vi will provide a light buffet of savory appetizers. Elaine Villamin, Eden Canyon Vineyards' owner and winemaker, will be pouring tastes of her family's Cabernet blend.

And mark your calendars: ACF's first major weekend-long celebration of Asian food culture, Asian Food Beyond Borders, is scheduled for October 10–12, 2008. The first of its kind in the nation, the event will celebrate Asian food and culture through a wide range of activities such as tasting-and-learning sessions, guided tours, cooking and wine-and-food pairing classes, and an all-day discussion forum with preeminent Asian food experts. For more information on the event and registration dates, please visit www.asianculinaryforum.org.

Are You What You Cook?
Tue. July 21, 2008

One Ferry Building, 2nd Floor
San Francisco, CA

website

6pm registration and wine reception
6:30pm–8:30pm panel discussion

$35 general admission
$25 restaurant trade or full-time student (with ID)

the socialite: Slow Food Nation

On Tuesday July 1st, the lawn in front of San Francisco's City Hall began its transformation from grass carpet to edible garden, with volunteers preparing the land for Slow Food Nation's Victory Garden. On Saturday July 12th, Mayor Gavin Newsom, Slow Food Nation founder Alice Waters and more than 100 volunteers will plant the first edible garden in the City's Civic Center since 1943.

In case you were wondering, the Victory Garden project takes its name from 20th Century wartime efforts to address food shortages by encouraging citizens to plant gardens on public and private land. San Francisco's program became one of the best in the country; Golden Gate Park alone had 250 garden plots.

This event is in preparation for ~SLOW FOOD NATION~, taking place in San Francisco over Labor Day weekend (August 29th–September 1st, 2008). Billed as "the largest celebration of American food in history," the event is expected to bring together tens of thousands of people.

The majority of Slow Food Nation's events will be free and open to the public; certain events are ticketed. Events are listed and tickets are on sale at www.slowfoodnation.org.

I also noticed some of the restaurants hosting Slow Dinners are beginning to sell tickets; dinners will be hold from Thursday August 28th–Monday September 1st. There are some amazing dinners and collaborations, check it out.

There are also Slow Journeys and Slow Hikes! Be sure to check the site for more.

Highlights of the four-day event include:

Taste
Saturday August 30th; 11am–3pm; 5pm–9pm
Sunday August 31st, 11am–3pm; 6pm–9pm
Fort Mason/Festival Pavilion
Tickets: $45–$65
Taste is Slow Food Nation's grand celebration of good, clean and fair food from across the United States. In-depth taste workshops and hands-on experiences with quality, process, and distinguishing flavor factors will connect visitors with the origins and true value of our food. Each of the 15 uniquely designed pavilions showcases a different food through on-site demonstrations and tastes. Featured foods include: Beer, Bread, Charcuterie, Cheese, Chocolate, Coffee, Fish, Honey & Preserves, Ice Cream, Native Foods, Olive Oil, Pickles & Chutney, Spirits, Tea, and Wine. The Green Kitchen takes place here, where acclaimed chefs will demonstrate techniques for making simple, everyday dishes sustainable.

Food for Thought Speaker Series
Friday August 29th, 9am–4:30pm and Saturday August 30th, 11:30am–10pm
Civic Center/Herbst Theater and Milton Marks Auditorium
Tickets: $5–$25
Featuring leading thinkers, community organizers, journalists and activists discussing current food issues, from policy and planning to education and climate change. Speakers include: Wendell Berry, Marion Nestle, Carlo Petrini, Michael Pollan, Eric Schlosser, Vandana Shiva, and Alice Waters.

Marketplace
Friday August 29th–Sunday August 31st; 9am–4pm
Civic Center Plaza
Tickets: Free
The Market showcases 60 California farmers and artisans growing and producing good, clean and fair food. Visitors can purchase directly from the producer and learn the significance of regionality, diversity, and artisanality in the Bay Area's food system. Next to the Market, "Slow on the Go" demonstrates how "fast" slow food can be. Visitors can purchase affordable street food from San Francisco's diverse ethnic community, prepared with fully sustainable, source-verified ingredients.

Slow Food Nation Victory Garden
Friday August 29th–Sunday August 31st; 9am–4pm
Civic Center Plaza
Tickets: Free
In collaboration with Victory Gardens 2008+, Slow Food Nation will herald the era of self-sufficiency through the creation of an ornamental edible garden in the heart of San Francisco's Civic Center. Planted on the same site as 60 years ago during World War II, the Slow Food Nation Victory Garden demonstrates the potential of a truly local agriculture practice and brings together and promotes Bay Area urban gardening organizations, while producing high quality food for those in need. The Slow Food Nation Victory Garden will be introduced to the public on Saturday July 12th in a ceremony with Mayor Gavin Newsom and Slow Food Nation Founder Alice Waters.

Slow Food Rocks
Saturday August 30th; 11am–7pm and Sunday August 31st; 11am–5:30pm
Fort Mason/Great Meadow
For tickets visit: www.slowfoodrocks.com

Featuring: Gnarls Barkley; G Love & Special Sauce; the John Butler Trio; Medeski Martin & Wood; New Pornographers and Ozomatli. Additional major headliners to be announced soon. A two-day outdoor music festival featuring the biggest names in rock, folk, hip-hop, soul, jazz, and world music. Produced by the Festival Network, this is one of only three public events permitted on the Great Meadow the entire year.

Petition Launch for a New Vision for Agriculture and Food Policy for the 21st Century
Thursday August 28th; 4pm–5pm
Civic Center/Slow Food Nation Victory Garden
Tickets: Free
Hosted in conjunction with Roots of Change (ROC), Slow Food Nation will introduce a Vision Statement for Agricultural and Food Policy for the 21st Century drafted by notable activists, practitioners, producers and eaters across the country. The Vision Statement will be a call to action to frame future food and agricultural policies, including the next Farm Bill, to benefit all Americans.

Slow Food Nation
Fri. Aug. 29–Mon. Sep. 1, 2008

various locations

website

the starlet: July 8, 2008

Here's a blast from the past: Chris Isaak was spotted on Sunday at Pho Phu Quoc (AKA PPQ Restaurant) at 19th Avenue and Irving with his wife. I remember he was my very first concert in a club, the Stone on Broadway!

letter from the tablehopper: July 1, 2008

Hey, guess who is actually writing a short(-ish) column this week? Shocking, but true. I'm actually on a plane coming back from Kalamazoo (no joke) from a one-day work gig for Kellogg's, and let's just say the five-hour plane ride from Chicago and one charged computer battery pack is about all I've got to write this thing. Sadly, there was no time to check out some Kalamazoo cuisine in the less than 24 hours I was there—we're talking airport and plane eatz, how tragic, but I was in love with all the green trees I saw, what a pretty state. Anyway, no review this week, I'm tired and outta time.

Fortunately, this week I have a few other people who did some writing for me (in the wino and the bookworm). In honor of the upcoming umami symposium mentioned in the socialite (I love this world we live in), we have a special wino topic this week, courtesy of Jessica Boyd, who is sharing her thoughts on umami in sake, and pairing sake with cheese.

So, let's rock. Speaking of rockin', yay, thanks to y'all who voted for me in this year's San Francisco magazine 2008 Best of the Bay Reader's Poll! While I am excited to be a winner, I am not sure what to do about the actual category I won: "Best Blog for Getting the Scoop on Food." Huh. Since many of you know tablehopper is NOT a blog (remember, this thing is emailed to you, it's an e-column, not a blog), does it mean I have to give the award back? Ha ha. Anyway, many thanks for all the votes, yo. Very cool. Congrats to all the winners.

Wishing you a happy Fourth o' July—it's shaping up to be yet another year of colored fog and clouds.

~Marcia

the chatterbox: July 1, 2008

Have you noticed some key chefs have not been around lately, or are mysteriously heading off to New York for quick jaunts? Yup, I've heard from various sources that we have quite the local lineup of chefs who have been flying to New York to compete on upcoming episodes of ~IRON CHEF~ on Food Network. Woot. Looks like there will be another chance to watch Chris Cosentino of Incanto, Jonnatan Leiva of Jack Falstaff, and Ravi Kapur of Boulevard. Also heard Nate Appleman of A16/SPQR and Mourad Lahlou of Aziza will be on too. Further rumors have David Kinch (Manresa) and Charles Phan (Slanted Door) also competing. All unconfirmed, but hey, but let's go West Coast! Will let you know when the chefs who are participating are final confirmed, and airdates are set!

The temporary ghost town of Jackson Square is suddenly getting some life back in it. Tumbleweeds, be gone! Not only is the Quince move into the Myth space looking on track, but per my little hint last week about Myth's former executive chef ~SEAN O'BRIEN~ coming back on the local scene, how about this: he's returning to his old neighborhood! At press time he didn't have the keys yet (due to happen today), but it looks like those keys will be opening the door to the Scott Howard space. The restaurant is going to get a little design refresh, and O'Brien said fall looks like a good time to plan on tasting his delicious dinners again (the part about the delicious dinners is all me, mind you). He said he's enjoyed the six-month break, but is really looking forward to getting back in the kitchen. I'll have more in coming weeks. 500 Jackson St. at Montgomery.

I was surprised to learn that ~JOEL HUFF~, one of my favorite local talents, resigned as chef de cuisine at Silks. Huff doesn't have any specific plans to announce, but he is looking for a new position. While the search for a new chef for Silks takes place, Joshua Nudd, the executive chef at Mandarin Oriental, San Francisco, will be stepping in; he recently came to the position from Chambers Kitchen, a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant in Minneapolis. Milan Drager, the previous executive chef at Mandarin Oriental SF, was promoted to the position of food and beverage director in November 2007, but during this interim time both he and Nudd will continue to oversee the dining experience at Silks. 222 Sansome St. at Bush, 415-986-2020.

Also in the downtown area, please note ~RUBICON~ has closed for their annual summer break, and will be back open next Tuesday July 8th. 558 Sacramento St. at Montgomery, 415-434-4100.

Another temporary change in hours: ~MODERN TEA~ in Hayes Valley will be narrowing its offerings for the next few weeks. The staff has a lot of projects to focus on right now, including a tea bar at Cavallo Point's Healing Art Center, their involvement with the Hayes Valley Neighborhood Parks Group, and owner Alice Cravens is also the tea curator for the upcoming Slow Food Nation. And more: they are also working on a tie-in providing lunch and afternoon service at a location south of market to open in September. So what does this all mean? Meal service at Modern Tea will be held back for the next few weeks, but you can still stop in for tea and light nibbles Saturdays and Sundays (2pm–7pm). Cravens can be contacted for wholesale and retail orders through the website, and you can also read more about the Modern Cooks program. 602 Hayes St. at Laguna, 415-626-5406.

The A16/SPQR folks have officially decided the placeholder name they used for the liquor license for their Dogpatch project is actually going to stick: ~URBINO~. (I dig it.) The opening date is still inconclusive: think January–March 2009 for now. The rest of the concept remains the same: focused on the cuisine of Le Marche, plus a food to-go component. I like having something like this to look forward to. 800 Minnesota St. at 20th St.

Things are chugging along for Ryan Scott at ~MISSION BEACH CAFÉ~. In case you were curious about his new menu, here you go: lunch includes sweet corn soup with avocado and tomato oil ($4 cup/$7 bowl); there's a salmon burger with asparagus, English peas, pancetta, avocado, aioli ($12.50); and a duck confit patty melt with smoked mozzarella, caramelized onions, and horseradish mustard sauce ($11). Dinner entrées include seared sea scallops with summer succotash, braised shiitake mushrooms, potato pureé ($23); and grilled pork loin with Israeli couscous, summer squash, cipollini onions, spiced plums ($24). Brunch brings dishes like soufflé pancakes with blueberry cream ($10); and the Mission Beach egg sandwich on a house-made English muffin with roasted tomato, caramelized onion, white cheddar, and potatoes ($7.50). Try to save room for some of Alan Carter's famed desserts (mmmm, pie). Open Mon–Fri at 7am for pastries and Blue Bottle coffee; lunch 11am–2:30pm, dinner Tue–Thu and Sun 5:30pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm. Brunch Sat–Sun 9am–2pm. The restaurant closes at 6pm on Mondays. 198 Guerrero St. at 14th St., 415-861-0198.

A tablehopper reader wrote in to tell me the famed green-glowin' steakhouse in the Mission, yes the historic ~PALACE STEAK HOUSE~, will be closing at the end of July, after 40 years in business. No more steak dinners on plastic trays and garlic bread and booths and free parking. Man. When I get a chance to investigate more I'll report back. 3047 Mission St. at 26th St., 415-647-2011.

Also in the Mission, does anyone have any intel about ~GEORGE'S BBQ~, yet another business opening on 24th Street? The name on the license is Jimmy Panagiotopoulos—anyone know this Greek fella, or have some details about the biz? Efharisto! 3231 24th St. at Capp.

~MISSION PIE~ has made a small move, and is now in a significantly bigger space on the corner of Mission and 25th Street, which means the construction of the on-site bakery is now underway in their old space. Destination Baking Company in Glen Park will continue baking goods for Mission Pie until the new bakery/kitchen is done in the fall (the target is September). Here's more from the folks on Chowhound, and you can read the Mission Pie website too. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St., 415-282-4743.

And now, some more Mission news: it looks like the ~SNACK BAR~ concept from the NOPA folks is in flux. No word on whether it will be Spanish tapas bar, or perhaps now a wine retail place. Stand by for more in coming weeks. 2495 Harrison St. at 21st.

Oh, and fellow Western Addition denizens: ~NOPALITO~, Nopa's upcoming fast-casual Mexican joint, is now looking like an October opening in the Falletti Foods/Broderick Place shopping center. We must wait a bit longer for the carnitas by the pound. (My waistline says thank God.) 306 Broderick St. at Oak.

Yes, even one more piece of Mission news (hey, sorry folks in the Richmond!): this weekend was ~LITTLE STAR PIZZA'S~ last time serving weekend lunch. Didn't seem to get enough traction to keep it going. 400 Valencia St. at 15th St., 415-551-7827.

Okay, okay, no more Mission. Let's go to SoMa, all right? Right. After the water disaster at ~OUT THE DOOR~ in the Westfield Centre, it looks like they are taking advantage of the closure to make some changes: more seating will be added, and a wine bar is in the works as well. Look for a reopening in mid-July or so. 865 Market St., 415-541-9913.

On the other side of town, ~THE GROVE CAFE~ in the Marina has finished their expansion and are now open. 2250 Chestnut St. at Scott, 415-474-4843.

Not tooooo far away, ~MARCHÉ ON THE SQUARE~, the new two-story food gourmet market and grocer in Ghirardelli Square is slated to open this Thursday (call before you head over there, things change!), and Bar Marche and Bar Marche Wine Bar are due to open next Wednesday July 9th. 900 North Point at Larkin, 415-359-0365.

After much ado, and no more Honeydoo, ~SWIRL CULTURE~ yogurt finally opened in North Beach on Sunday. P.S. Yogurtphreeks: there is a PDF coupon on the website for "buy three, and the fourth is free." 1400 Grant St. at Green, 415-397-9475.

On my way to Le Colonial's ten-year anniversary bash last week, I had a chance to peek at the now finished ~ASUKA RAMEN~, offering primarily ramen and curry dishes on the menu. It's a small and simple space, full of two-tops, plus a counter/bar, and a few other dishes like gyoza and donburi—everything is about $10 and under. They are just getting through their soft opening, expect an expanded menu as the days go on. 883 Bush St. at Taylor, 415-567-3153.

Some special meals and deals around town: ~YOSHI'S SAN FRANCISCO~ just launched Kanpai Time, a menu served in the bar/lounge area each night. The menu includes a number of small plates and sushi, like a soft shell crab "sandwich" of lettuce-wrapped tempura crab with chile lime aioli ($7); Kurobuta pork sausage with grilled baby Yukon potatoes and honey Dijon ($6); grilled baby back ribs with sweet miso glaze ($7); and a Japanese melon "cream soda" float with vanilla gelato ($6). There will also be beer, wine, sake and cocktail specials, a sake trio tasting for $18, and wine specials. 1330 Fillmore St. at Eddy, 415-655-5600.

~MAGNOLIA GASTROPUB AND BREWERY~ not only has a new look, but a new line-up each week. On Monday nights, executive chef Brandon Jew just started offering a seasonal/locally-sourced three-course dinner, priced under $30, available until it's gone. Every Tuesday through the summer, pints are $3, all day, with the occasional exception for limited release and special beers. (Mmmmm, beer.) On Wednesdays, you can "meet the brewers" (Dave and Ben) through the summer from 6pm–9pm to talk shop, answer questions, and drink more beer. Hic. Chef Brandon may be cooking a whole pig or two throughout the summer on Wednesdays too, stand by. Thursdays, fried chicken night is back! Bwok! $18, starting at 5pm, until it runs out. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic, 415-864-7468.

I had fun hanging out with author and chef ~JOYCE GOLDSTEIN~ last week at Americano celebrating the launch of Tony and Cathy Mantuano's book, Wine Bar Food, and now here's your chance to hang with Joyce: on Saturday July 12th, she will be signing books and talking about her latest book: Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of Salad Meals and Mix and Match Dressings at Bi-Rite Market from 3pm–5pm. Owner/chef Sam Mogannam will be preparing a salad from the book as well. 3639 18th St. at Dolores, 415-241-9760.

East Bay folks, you'll be happy to hear the area around Bakesale Betty's and Pizzaiolo is about to get even tastier. Daniel Olivella of B44 in Belden Place is going to be opening ~BARLATA~, an easygoing Catalan tapas spot, along with his wife, his B44 partners, and his cyclist pal Chechu Rubiera. He's moving into the former Silver Lion Buffet space (AKA Biggums to some), and hopes to be up and running by November. There will be around 65 seats, where you can order small plates plus some of his famous paellas, and while seated at the ten or so seats at the bar, you'll be able to munch on a variety of pintxos (bread and toothpick treats). Beer and wine. Look for dinner to start, with brunch on the weekend. 4901 Telegraph Ave. at 49th St., Oakland.

the lush: July 1, 2008

Another thing I noticed while gallivanting (read: barhopping) around Union Square last week: the bar formerly known as the ~RED ROOM~ in the Hotel Commodore (now a dormitory in the Academy of Art empire) has changed hands and has reopened. New look, new owners, and new name that I was asked to not mention juuuuuust yet. Gone is the redrum motif and twirling martini glass behind the bar: taking its place is more of a taupe color scheme, with taxidermy on the wall, vintage furnishings (including an animal print chaise), and some nice ladies behind the bar. I'll release the name of the bar and the players shortly. Open nightly 5pm–2am. 827 Sutter St. at Jones.

Buddy Camper English of Alcademics.com has confirmation on the rumor circling about New York's ~EMPLOYEES ONLY~ opening an SF location; owner Dushan Zaric has this to say, "We are currently not working on a SF Employees Only although it is in our plans to eventually open up an EO there...a lot of people have been asking but I have no idea how they got this information." Thanks for sleuthing, Camper!

Fans of suds, here's your chance to celebrate the 20th anniversary of ~GORDON BIERSCH~ beer, and for a week, no joke. There are all kinds of events (a few of the events are in Palo Alto and San Jose for you 650 and 408 folks), so for additional information and to purchase VIP tickets, visit www.gordonbierschrestaurant.com. Here's a recap of a couple of the events:

July 6th: Anniversary Brewer's Dinner hosted by Dan Gordon, 6pm–8pm, San Francisco Brewery Restaurant, 2 Harrison St., $60 per person. Cocktail reception and special anniversary toast, special beer and food tastings.

July 12th: Brewery Benefit Bash, 12pm–7pm, an all-you-can-eat and drink party for thousands of Bay Area residents at the original brewery and bottling facility in San Jose. Guests at the daylong celebration will munch on food, sip beer, and enjoy live music from Gregg Rolie. Tickets are $40, with proceeds benefiting the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation.

the wino: Jessica Boyd on Sake and Cheese Pairings

Jessica Boyd has been working in Japanese restaurants and studying sake for 10 years. She studies Japanese and looks forward to moving to Japan in a few years to live the good life in the countryside. After realizing her passion for sake, she sought out a job at Ozumo. Through many incarnations in her four years there, including server and sushi chef, she now finds herself the in-house sake expert and buyer. She also pours sake (and wine) every Tuesday at Corkage Sake & Wine Bar (next door to Café Abir and Tsunami Sushi Bar in the Western Addition).

Sake and Cheese: A New Frontier

Sake has always been somewhat of an approachable, friendly drink to me. It lends a comfortable (sometimes wild) hand to almost any situation. So when Kenzo Mabuchi of Tamanohikari Brewery in Kyoto, Japan asked me to get some blue cheese to pair with his Yamahai Ginjo, I have to admit the synapses were not firing. My life would never be the same.

Under careful consideration, some sake and cheeses have what is known as umami, the Fifth Flavor. In the West, we taste four states: salty, sour, sweet, and bitter. In the East, there are five tastes: dryness, sweetness, acidity, bitterness, and astringency. And crossing the borders we have the ever-elusive concept known as umami. A Japanese word combining umai (delicious) and mi (essence). So it's the essence of deliciousness? Uh huh.

Well, umami was actually "discovered" in 1908 by a researcher at Tokyo Imperial University named Kikunae Ikeda. After making a highly concentrated batch of dashi (broth) with konbu (seaweed) and katsuo bushi (dried fish flakes), Ikeda singled out the culprit: glutamates. A type of amino acid, these glutamates (when present) in a dish or single ingredient provide a delicious, savory, fullness of flavor or richness.

Perfect example: compare an unripe tomato to that of one vine-ripened, still warm from the sun's lovin' rays (OK, it doesn't have to be still warm). The unripe tomato just doesn't taste complete, whereas the ripe tomato makes you want to eat more, in fact, it makes you want to eat it like you would an apple.

Applying this concept to sake, one would say a very dry, clean sake is lower in umami than say one that is rounder, softer and more complex with a lingering finish. Both of these sakes have been made to taste exactly the way they do—no mistake. Are some of you asking, "How can there be amino acids in sake?" Well, my drink of choice is made from rice (and water, koji and yeast). When the proteins in the rice are breaking down, the amino acids remain. Sometimes, they are entirely eaten up by the hungry yeasts and sometimes they're not (depending on how long fermentation takes). The remaining amino acids then give the sake a robust, gamey, often, succulent flavor profile.

Moving on to cheese, however, generally speaking the more aged the cheese, the more umami. Think two year old Parmigiano Reggiano vs. fresh mozzarella. The parm has more depth of flavor than the mozzarella could ever dream of having. Both of these cheeses are living out their dharma perfectly. Having 1200mg of glutamates per 100g, Parmigiano Reggiano is still only second to Roquefort in technical umami content. This is why you see heaps of freshly grated parm on almost all Italian dishes—it adds that extra "mmmm."

Pairing sake and cheese can be a little tricky. But have fun with it. Taste is all very subjective, if it tastes good to you, go with it. I have provided a few pairings that I thought were great. Kanpai!

Tamanohikari Yamahai Ginjo With Pt. Reyes Original Blue (Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company)
Warming this sake gently allows it to open up and soften on the palate. The gaminess of the sake perfectly combines with the ripeness of the cheese, unfolding into a symphony in your mouth. Unqualified breads need not apply. Serve sake slightly warmed or room temperature.

Kamoizumi Nigori Ginjo With Roquefort and Honey
This sake is quite a treat. It's rich and creamy texture works wonderfully with that of the cheese. The sweetness of the nigori (cloudy) sake complements that of the tanginess in the blue veins. Sweet, smoky and salty, this cheese has it all. Add a touch of honey, and wow. Kamoizumi Nigori's complex structure can stand up to the many sensations of Roquefort. Serve sake well chilled.

Hou Hou Shu Sparkling Sake With Mt. Tam (Cowgirl Creamery)
One of the best sparkling sakes available, a refreshing beverage anytime. Soft, plentiful bubbles envelop the palate, adding just a touch of sweetness. The creaminess of the cheese is offset by the bubbles in a delicate manner. Subtle nuttiness is then welcomed by the sake's exquisite flavor profile including pear, cream, sweet rice, and banana. Serve sake well chilled.

Recommended sakes are available for purchase at Corkage Sake and Wine Shop, 1304 Fulton St. at Divisadero, 415-567-6503.

the socialite: Georgeanne Brennan, Meet the Authors Luncheon

Did you know the delightful food writer and author ~GEORGEANNE BRENNAN~ brought arugula to America? Good one, huh! Well, you can say thanks when she is signing her most recent book, A Pig in Provence, at a luncheon at the Salt House. (Yes, it's on the 15th, the day after Bastille Day.)

For $37 bucks (excluding tax and tip), you can have a glass of Champagne (included), a three-course, prix-fixe, French-inspired lunch by chef Robert Leva, and meet authors and Francophiles Georgeanne and her friend Cara Black (a well-known mystery writer living in Paris, author of Murder in the Rue du Paradis). Both authors will discuss their journeys as Americans living and writing in Paris and Provence. Salud!

Meet the Authors Luncheon
Tue., July 15, 2008

Salt House
545 Mission St.
Cross: 1st St.
San Francisco, CA 94105

415-543-8900
website

noon

please RSVP: 415-543-8900

$37 (excluding tax and tip)

the socialite: Umami Symposium

Thomas Keller of French Laundry, Hiro Sone of Terra and Ame, and Kunio Tokuoka of Japan's Kyoto Kitcho are joining together to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of ~THE DISCOVERY OF UMAMI~ by Dr. Kikunae Ikeda in Tokyo, Japan. The chefs will unite with leading food scientists and culinary experts to discuss and celebrate the fifth taste, umami.

To begin the symposium, culinary experts and scientists will discuss the impact of umami in a casual panel conversation. The panelists are Kathy Sykes, Ph.D. (professor of sciences and society, University of Bristol); Gary Beauchamp, Ph.D. (director, Monell Chemical Senses Center); John Prescott, Ph.D. (associate professor of psychology, The University of Newcastle); Harold McGee, Ph.D. (food writer and molecular gastronomist); Kunio Tokuoka (executive chef, Kyoto Kitcho); and Tim Hanni (Master of Wine and wine educator). Master of Ceremonies, Kathy Sykes, will mediate by engaging the panel of experts and the audience in a discussion about the importance of umami and its influence on the culinary industry.

Following the discussion, the internationally accredited chefs will serve a multi-course lunch to demonstrate umami (you can check out a PDF of the menu here.) Highlights of the menu will include seared Japanese spiny lobster, ginger-poached Georgia shrimp and watermelon salad, and salle d'agneau: lamb sous vide. Tim Hanni will introduce a number of wines at the luncheon to demonstrate how they can successfully be paired with umami-rich foods. (Umami is particularly prominent in ripe tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, cured ham, mushrooms, chicken soup, meat and fish.)

In honor of the event, and in case you are now really fired up for an umami-rich meal, Ame is also hosting an ~UMAMI CELEBRATION TASTING MENU~ from July 14th–August 3rd, 2008. The menu is $85, and with paired wine is an additional $65. The multi-course menu includes:

Ame Raw Three Ways:
ceviche with garum lime sauce
sea bass sashimi with ume plum vinaigrette
kampachi carpaccio with nuka pickles and ponzu

Corn Bisque with Lobster Tortelloni and Pesto Sauce

Broiled Sake Marinated Black Cod in Shiso Broth

Grilled Berkshire Pork on Carolina Gold Rice and Tomato "Risotto" with Vadouvan Sauce

Caramel Ice Cream with Shoyu Powder

Umami Symposium: New Frontiers of Taste
Mon., July 21, 2008

Hyatt Regency
5 Embarcadero Center
San Francisco, CA

11:30am–4:30pm

tickets

$100
$50 for students with valid student I.D.

Registration closes on Monday July 7th. No onsite registration.

the bookworm: Pete Mulvihill of Green Apple Recommends

Don't forget: this book is available at 20% off for tablehopper readers for two weeks following this mention at Green Apple Books—simply use the code "tablehopper" at checkout (either at the store or online) for your discount.

The run-up in food and gas prices has spurred many articles about people staying home, cooking more, trying to make their own food instead of eating out, etc. Why not take it one step further and make your own cheese, butter, yogurt, and more?

The Home Creamery by Kathy Farrell-Kingsley has you covered. It includes clear instructions and very simple recipes. I've bought (and never used) make-your-own cheese books before, but never gotten around to actually trying it. Partly to blame are my two-year-old twins—they love to "help" me cook, but patience is not their strong suit; they're more into scrambled eggs and banana bread than waiting for buttermilk to separate from cream.

While The Home Creamery includes some recipes requiring rennet or other specialty ingredients, other recipes are as simple as milk, vinegar, and salt (for ricotta), or cream and salt (for butter), so you don't necessarily need to get specialty ingredients or equipment. Sounds like fun, doesn't it?

The book, perhaps extraneously, also provides recipes for you to use your newly made creamery products as ingredients in other recipes. Perhaps that's just fluff that fills out the book, but the core of the book is worth the $16.95: clear, simple instructions to make your own creamery items. Enjoy (and feel free to drop off your surplus cheese at the store sometime in case I still don't get around to doing it myself)!

Thank you for reading.

the starlet: July 1, 2008

I heard that Macy Gray DJed for half an hour at Levende Lounge a little over a week ago.

Esai Morales (known from NYPD Blue) was spotted having a good time with some friends at Le Colonial's ten-year anniversary bash last week.

letter from the tablehopper: June 24, 2008

Hello amigos. This city’s weather is so schizo: on Friday I was enjoying a nighttime picnic on my roof with a friend, throwing back a bottle of Rias Baixas albariño (perfect with a taco salad, how hi-lo fabulous), and on Monday, I was ready for some steaming pho. While the heat was still in full effect, one place that served to be the perfect (and somewhat secret) spot for and outdoor lunch was a revisit to Ironwood BBQ—can’t beat the fresh air, the view of the green, and yes, the pulled pork. See ya there during the next heat wave.

Also had a wonderful meal at Masa’s on Saturday, since Richard Reddington was in the house for one night only with chef Gregory Short in honor of Masa’s 25th anniversary year. Can you say Manila clams with chorizo and a saffron-curry nage, with petrale sole over jasmine rice? Crazy combo that magically worked. I learned there’s a big event coming up, bringing back a number of former Masa’s chefs—stand by!

Congrats to Camille H. who won the tickets to this Thursday’s Best of the Bay Area party. See y’all there?

And this is kind of a fun one: Citysearch asked some folks around town what food is better than sex? Yup, yours truly has her answer in there; for the reveal, click here.

And lastly, you know those products you sometimes buy, convincing yourself it’s okay, just a little splurge, although you know it’s totally and utterly ridiculous to buy it? Well, I found my new bad habit: 479° Popcorn. I picked up a box of the Pimentón de La Vera version at Blue Fog Market, and am now hooked. A $5.69 box of popcorn, what is happening to me? SO bougie. Anyway, it’s beyond delicious. Tangy. Sweet. Spicy. Damn.

Oh, and happy Pride everyone. Rock out, celebrate, say it loud, say it proud.

Yours,

~Marcia

the chatterbox: June 24, 2008

Been hearing some rumblings about ex-Myth chef ~SEAN O’BRIEN’S~ next gig—the ink isn’t dry so he asked me to wait a week. Stand by. Let’s just say if it all goes through, he’ll be back in SF. And that’s all I am allowed to say!

Meanwhile, my teaser proved itself to be true: it is close to confirmed that ~QUINCE~ is moving into the former Myth space on Pacific. So, no yelling from Gordon Ramsey, ha ha. Stand by for the what (Will they close their current space? Sell it?), the when, and more.

Moving into the now-closed ~PJ’S OYSTER BED~ space in the Sunset will be a new restaurant from Jose Calvo-Perez of local favorite Fresca. He said he’s not sure if the new restaurant will carry the Fresca name—he’s considering naming it after his daughter, Juliana. Either way, the food will be his family’s trademark modern Peruvian cuisine with Latin flair—look for an opening in January or February. I’ll follow up with more details as they become finalized. 737 Irving St. at 8th Ave.



More on the Peruvian tip: last week I had a chance to meet the exceedingly kind and pretense-free celeb chef Gastón Acurio, who has restaurants in seven countries, including Peru, Chile, Columbia, Ecuador, Mexico, Spain and Venezuela, with plans to open in Costa Rica and Brazil. He is opening his first restaurant in the U.S., ~LA MAR CEBICHERÍA PERUANA~ (it’s the project going into a 100-year-old building at Pier 1½, just a smidge north of the Ferry Building). I toured the space last week, and it’s going to be quite the spread, with a pisco bar/lounge area (up to 65 seats) where you can get a pisco sour, plus all kinds of other pisco drinks, and graze on small apps to share, then there’s the ceviche bar further inside, serving about ten kinds made with local fish that will highlight a variety of Peruvian chiles, plus some tiraditos, all served on a large bar (around 30 seats) of up-lit blue glass. There is also a spacious dining room in the back (88 seats) flanking the exhibition kitchen, turning out contemporary-Peruvian fare, plus a big outdoor patio overlooking the water that will have a fire pit. It’s rather spiffy.

The chef de cuisine (Jose Luis, who opened the first La Mar with Acurio), the pastry chef, and floor manager are all coming from Acurio’s restaurants in Peru. Local wine guru Emmanuel Kemiji is consulting on the wine list, finding perfect wine pairings for the dishes, and in fact is consulting with Acurio on all his restaurants. La Mar is slated to open at the end of August or early September. Oh, and if you understand Spanish, Acurio has a series called Aventura Culinaria that you can watch on YouTube.

So, I can finally release the news about another Isaac Mogannam project in the Mission (he’s the one behind the other projects I have mentioned here: Grub and Zaytoon, and the upcoming Booth on Polk Street); moving into the Zain's Mediterranean Cuisine space, next door to Big Mouth Burgers, will be ~PHAT PHILLY~. Think truly authentic Philly cheesesteaks: an Amoroso Philly Roll (baked in Philly), with a choice of provolone, American cheese, or Whiz (if you must), sweet banana peppers and hot cherry peppers, and the twist is that these will be made with quality beef and chicken. Mogannam stated he will be doing his best to use local produce, if not 100% organic ingredients. There will be several options for vegetarians, including a portobello cheesesteak, a veggie cheesesteak, and a tofu cheesesteak. Also expect fries, both regular and crisscut (waffle fries), served as is, with cheese, or get them topped with Whiz and chili (antacid not included). Also on the menu: Buffalo wings in Frank's RedHot Sauce or BBQ-flavored, milkshakes, Tastykake snacks, Goldenberg's Peanut Chews, Herr's Pretzels, and lastly, Frank's Black Cheery Wishniak Soda, all Philly favorites. Phat Philly is due to open sometime between early July and early August. 3388 24th St. at Valencia.

And now, an export from the Inner Richmond: Eater broke the story that ~SUSHI BISTRO~ on Balboa is opening a second location on 24th Street, just next door to the St. Francis Fountain. It’s going to be a complete build out, so the opening isn’t slated to happen until the beginning of 2009. Look for a similar format to the original location, with an extended sake list. Like I said, 24th Street is shaping up to be the new Valencia. 2809 24th St. at York.

A tablehopper Missionite/hipster informs me that ~UDUPI PALACE~ opened this weekend in the former Firecracker space. Yes folks, San Francisco’s only South Indian places (two) are a block away from each other. Madness, I tell you. Open Tue–Sun for lunch and dinner, closed Mondays. 1007 Valencia St. at 21st St., 415-970-8008.

I got word that the colorful ~LOLO~ in the Mission has discontinued weekend brunch. 3234 22nd St. at Bartlett, 415-643-5656.

But, one door closes and other opens, because ~LINGBA~ in Potrero Hill is kicking off brunch on Saturday, July 12th. The menu seems mostly lunchy, but the few brunch dishes include Kurobuta pork hash and eggs, coconut buckwheat pancakes, a Thai-style omelet with green onion, ground chicken, and spicy green chili sauce, and a mushroom tart with a poached egg on top. They win for one of the most “gotta try it” morning cocktails I’ve seen in a while: the Bacon & Eggs Bloody Mary. Here’s the recipe in case you feel like experimenting at home: it’s kind of an all-in-one drink if I ever saw it. Breakfast of champions for sure. Brunch hours will be 11am–3pm. 1469 18th St. at Connecticut, 414-355-0001.

Bacon & Eggs Bloody Mary:

2 oz Tito’s handmade vodka
4 oz fresh pressed tomato juice
1 slice of extra crispy Marin Sun Farms bacon
.5 oz Worcestershire sauce
.5 oz Golden Mountain sauce
juice of ½ lemon
2 quail egg yolks
4 dashes Tabasco sauce
pinch of coarse sea salt
pinch of crushed black peppercorn
fresh grated horseradish

In glass shaker combine lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Golden Mountain sauce, salt, pepper, Tabasco, and horseradish. Add tomato juice and vodka, then fill shaker with ice. Stir all ingredients, then pour into a tall Collins glass. Carefully float quail eggs on top and add the bacon.

~UVA ENOTECA~ in the Lower Haight is starting their weekend brunch on Saturday July 5th. Hours will be 10am–3pm every Sat–Sun. 568 Haight St. at Steiner.

Fellow fans of the teas at Namu, or folks who live in the Inner Richmond nabe, may be already familiar with the Aroma Tea Shop, where you can sit for the free tea tasting and education session, and then once you’re hooked on a new kind, you can buy up some tea for home. After a scouting walk in Russian Hill, I have learned Aroma is expanding to Polk Street, opening a second location called ~AROMA TEA 2~ in the former Cafe Lambretta space. If all goes according to plan, it will open in mid to late July, and will not only have a tea tasting bar, and tea available for sale, but they will also have brewed tea to go (including iced tea with fresh fruit), plus some tables where customers can sit and enjoy tea on their own time. The tables will mimic ones common in China, with a built-in sink and heater for the kettle, so customers can sit and do their own tea service. 1806 Polk St. at Washington.

A big thanks to Thy Tran who has an update on Bay Area Bites about what is happening to the ~HEART OF THE CITY FARMERS’ MARKET~ at the UN Plaza. I love my Wednesday market, and hope it continues to exist—it’s important to a lot of people. I’ll continue to post updates here on the situation.

A few more details about the ~URBAN TAVERN~ project that Laurent Manrique and Chris Condy of C&L Partners have taken over: first, Donna Scala is still involved in the project, and second, the executive chef is Patrick Kehler, who served as chef de cuisine at Aqua, and was also at Circolo Restaurant. Look for Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, and an opening in early August. The restaurant will be open daily from 11:30am until late. 333 O'Farrell St. at Mason, 415-923-4400.

After what has seemed like ages, ~LONG BAR & BISTRO~ has finally opened in the Fillmore Grill space. The menu reportedly includes some straightforward classics, like calamari, mussels, fish and chips, sliders, ahi tuna tartare, plus tater tots. tablehopper reader Carla says, “I was at Long Bar last night (finally!) for drinks... they did such a nice job! I love how they remodeled—completely changed the location of the bar (big improvement).” But another reader was kvetching to me about a few things, so all I can say is a SOFT OPENING=caveat emptor. There’s no voicemail, so I have idea what their hours are, sorry. Yet. 2298 Fillmore St. at Clay, 415-440-1700.

And now, menu watch! ~PRES A VI GLOBAL CUISINE AND WINE BAR~ has added entrée-sized dishes in addition to their array of small plates. One Letterman Drive, near the corner of Chestnut and Lyon Streets, Presidio, 415-409-3000.

~SPRUCE~ is now offering a Harvest Menu at lunch, a prix-fixe three-course meal and optional wine pairing. The menu is seasonal, and currently features braised spring onions, pancetta-wrapped day boat scallops, and for dessert, pannacotta with market blueberries. The menu is $30 without wine, and $45 with. (Diners may also opt for a half wine pairing if they just want “a splash.”) 3640 Sacramento St. at Spruce, 415-931-5100.

~LUCE~ has kicked off Sunday Suppers, a “farm to table” tasting menu inspired by Crenn’s Saturday visits to the farmers’ market. $45 per person, and $65 with wine pairings. InterContinental Hotel San Francisco, 888 Howard St. at Fifth St., 415-616-6566.

Some cool events coming up: Meatpaper and Gastronomica, two independent-minded magazines exploring the intersections of food and culture, are celebrating the publication of their summer issues with a lively evening of artistic food and food-centric art called ~SUMMER FEAST~. The event will feature tastings from local chefs and purveyors (chef Staffan Terje/Perbacco, chef Leif Hedendal, chef Chris Kronner/Serpentine, chef Scott Youkilis/Maverick, The Fatted Calf, Prather Ranch Meat Co.), as well as wine and cocktails (Verge Syrah, La Fee Absinthe, Rhum Clement, Bluecoat Gin, Trumer Pils, and more), an art exhibition, and live music from Gaucho. Sunday July 20th, from 6pm–9pm. Tickets are $25 per person, and may be purchased online via credit card or PayPal. A limited number of tickets will be sold at the door. Event is at Perbacco Restaurant, 230 California St. at Battery.

The Commonwealth Club has a slew of great events, including this ~BAY GOURMET PANEL: WOMEN CHEFS CONFIDENTIAL~ on Monday June 30th, featuring a very special panel of women who have had a huge impact on the San Francisco dining scene as it is today: Loretta Keller, Marsha McBride, Nancy Oakes, Gayle Pirie, Judy Rodgers, and Joyce Goldstein. 5:30pm reception, 6pm program; members free, $18 non-members. Read more and order tickets here.

And then in July is the summer Platforum series, ~HOW WE EAT~, including Alice Waters on July 31st, plus a bunch more events after that. Read all about the series here.

Opening in downtown Oakland on September 1st in the former Savannah's Place (a Chinese and Vietnamese restaurant) will be ~KAFFIR~ from Amy Torgerson and Lejla Borovac. It will be a casual, quick-service restaurant offering Southeast Asian street food with a California twist, including some apps, salads, soups, and rice or noodle bowls made with free-range meat and poultry, and sustainable seafood. Eco-friendly building materials as well as biodegradable packaging will be used during the development and operation of KAFFIR. Torgerson is a graduate of the CCA and has worked at Limon, Lark Creek Inn, Costanoa Resort, and RNM, while Borovac will be running the front of house (her background includes Long Tan in Brooklyn, New York, as well as Cha Cha Cha, Chow, and RNM). The restaurant will be open for lunch Mon–Fri, with extended hours in the months following the opening. 578 14th St. at Clay, Oakland.

And coming this winter to the Glenview District will be ~MARZANO~, a neighborhood pizzeria joint from John Hurley, Justin Hafen, and Scott Sasaki of Garibaldi’s. The petite space is undergoing a complete build-out, and should be open in November, with a food-fired oven and about 40 seats. In addition to Neapolitan pizzas, there will also be a fish, meat, and pasta entrée each night, plus salads, and full liquor. The name of the executive chef can’t be released yet since he is currently employed elsewhere in the Bay Area and hasn’t given notice. Dinner nightly, and open continuously on the weekends from 10am–10pm. 4214 Park Blvd. at Glenfield, Oakland.

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fresh meat: Conduit

It’s funny how restaurants can educate you, or literally make you eat your words. Back in the beginning of the New Year, in my annual missive “The Bore,” I declared how tired I was becoming of open kitchens. I ended up getting a lot of flack from some chef pals for that comment, who brought up the very valid point that it’s nice to see your customer and be able to interact with the room, instead of being locked away in the literal back of house. Point taken.

When I wrote the piece, I was actually thinking of the newly opened ~CONDUIT~ and how I didn’t like looking at the garbage and recycling in the corner while eating my winter chicory salad. Just too much kitchen reality. But fast forward: they have since covered the dishwashing and garbage area up with a curtain, and well well well, two of the three times I have eaten at CONDUIT, look who has parked herself at the counter overlooking the kitchen line.

They are great ringside seats, and rather hot ones too (just watch how the crew here chugs water), but I did reconsider my take on open kitchens. Watching the line hustle is one hell of a thing to witness, and really makes you appreciate the dance that goes into making your dinner. So fascinating, it’s hard to focus on conversation with your dining partner. It’s now probably my favorite seat in the restaurant.

Munch munch munch. (That’s me, eating my words.)

This restaurant has brought up its fair share of controversy, from the edgy urban design from Stanley Saitowitz, to its escalated price point in a location that is better known for rock than rabbit. The place is full of glistening copper pipe, the conduit, if you will. One friend has called it a gay prison, while another liked how the pipes assist in segmenting the rather spacious room into various seating areas and alcoves. It’s definitely a statement.

God bless the carpeted floor that helps dampen the sound, and it’s a pleasure to have some space in between the tables, allowing for actual conversation (the scintillating part is up to you, darlings). I do wish the bar was easier to perch at (hello, the liquors and cocktails here are enough to make me hang out for hours, but the tiny bar and ledge don’t really allow for it), and while we’re on ergonomics, the bench seating along the back wall can get a mite uncomfortable after a couple hours. (Pillows please, perhaps? Because my booty isn’t providing quite enough cushion, although it should.)

Oh yeah, and let’s talk about the infamous bathrooms. Again, it’s another case of men designing bathrooms women don’t like to use (architects/designers behind frisson and Slanted Door, I am talking to you). The opaque glass partitions between the stalls are a bit nerve-wracking to say the least: can that person see me? I can kind of see them. And the communal sink thing, well, it drives me up a wall. I don’t like to reapply my lipstick in front of random men. What happens in the ladies room stays in the ladies room. At least the stalls are now designated which are male and female.

Okay, let’s move on to why I really go to restaurants: to eat. (And yes, to drink.) I’ve enjoyed watching executive chef Justin Deering’s menu evolve through the seasons, and stylistically the somewhat haute plating and duos and trios that were originally featured have been dialed back a bit. Deering’s background at Boulevard and Jeanty at Jack’s is apparent with some Frenchie execution and ingredients making appearances here and there, but he has a playful spin on things that is definitely his own.

The starters aren’t cheap, most hover at an $11 average, so don’t let the Valencia Street address fool you. But the quality ingredients and work that goes into each dish aren’t exactly Valencia Street either. One place to begin is with the little gem salad with a creamy green goddess dressing; I’ve tried a couple variations, once with radish and hazelnuts ($9), and now the little chilled wedges are accompanied by a timbale of Dungeness crab salad ($12).

The wintertime pork belly and squab dishes have made way for a scrumptious execution of quail ($14) served two ways: it’s initially cooked sous vide, and then the pan-seared execution is served on a fried green tomato, while the buttermilk-fried piece rests over a magically ripe (wow, in June!) and flavorful purple Cherokee tomato. I liked the little side of bacon and chive ranch dressing, and peppery watercress, too.

The kitchen has come up with some pastas that regulars are not letting them take off the menu, including the homemade tortellini filled with braised oxtail ($12), resting in a broth that tastes like French onion soup (the magic of braising liquid), all topped with a crispy round of Gruyere, a fun twist on the usual au gratin melted cheese topping. The house-made fettuccine dish ($12) also changes—a delicious variation was in the winter, with a decadently deep yellow-yolked egg in the middle, and shaved black truffle on top; now it comes with a beef and pork sugo (on my “to try” list).

About that egg: it comes from owner Sydney Weinstein of Pauline’s Pizza next door (they raise eggs for the restaurant), and the Pauline’s Pizza garden is also providing most of the greens, like the arugula-like sylvetta. What a cool partnership.

Mains are nicely composed, and the flavor pairings are unique and well thought out. I especially loved the grilled walu ($19) with cannellini beans, fried Castelvetrano olives, and crispy house-cured guanciale, and a recent dish of roasted halibut ($26) with a hearty base of braised artichoke, maitake mushrooms, and fresh greens totally satisfied—nice acidic kick from some Meyer lemon relish, too.

I am missing the trio of lamb ($28) I had back in February (meow on the loin topped with piquillo pepper), but it’s the fact that the menu keeps changing with the seasons that will make me want to return. And the menu is also evolving: the apps remain a bit more “dressy,” while the mains are becoming more “business casual” and focused on satisfaction, a smidge less on complicated execution.

No, not all the dishes are perfect (I’ve been served fish a touch overcooked, salad overdressed, pasta underdone, a sauce under-seasoned) but all in all I have found a lot of care goes into these dishes, with ingredients that taste fresh, and respected. And worked out into delicious combinations.

Some folks have complained about portion size, but I have found them to be just right. Perhaps it’s all a ploy to help save room for dessert, because we have a new pastry chef star in our midst: Majkin Klare. She is wildly talented, and knocks me out with her bright flavors and artful presentations. Wait until you try her homemade ice creams and sundaes. My friend went nuts over the vacherin, an “adult ice cream sandwich” with strawberry in the middle, while the sundae of sweet corn ice cream, burnt salted caramel, and candied popcorn totally brought back childhood flavors (and enjoyment) to me. All are $8, make sure everyone at the table gets their own so you can taste and compare.

Oh, yeah, and about the bar. The inventiveness continues, under the guidance of bar manager Reza Esmaili, who has charmed me with a number of clever cocktails here, but totally wowed me with the Yerba Buena gimlet ($11), made with Square One cucumber vodka, Hendrick’s Gin (yes, homeboy mixed vodka and gin, and man, does this drink rock), plus mint and lime. Well-executed classics are also in the midst, from a Sazerac to a slowly stirred Manhattan ($10). Drink up.

I guess my palate lines up with GM/wine director Brian Gavin’s, because I’ve savored a number of wines off his list, and they all seem to pair quite well with the food. There are a bunch of Euro vinos (and ones from our backyard) to choose from, and anyone can find something to fit their wallet; one night, all the whites by the glass were under $10, nice. And every time my wine has been served at the proper temp. I gotta say, I love all the Schott Zweisel stemware—sexy stuff.

Service is friendly and efficient, and while the kitchen can occasionally get backed up, folks on the floor handle it well and check in. I like the entire team working here—you can tell everyone is working really hard to make it all happen.

One thing to note: there’s a valet lot across the street (man, the parking is the WORST in this neighborhood), but the lot says they close at 10pm, so that can be kind of annoying. Just tell them you want to leave your car in the unattended lot if you plan to stay later.

CONDUIT
280 Valencia St.
Cross: 14th St.
San Francisco, CA 94103

415-552-5200
website

Sun–Thu 5:30pm–10:30pm
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm

Closed Mondays

Apps $9–$14
Entrées $22–$26
Desserts $8

the lush: June 24, 2008

Whatcha doing tonight, Tuesday June 24th? ~CHEF TONY MANTUANO OF THE CHICAGO RESTAURANT SPIAGGIA AND HIS WIFE CATHY~ are hosting an event on the outdoor patio of Americano Restaurant and Bar at the Hotel Vitale to celebrate their new cookbook, Wine Bar Food