tablehopper
table of contents   This week's tablehopper: essential reading

the chatterbox
the word on the street
fresh meat
new restaurant reviews
the lush
put it on my tab

the socialite
shindigs/feasts/festivals
the bookworm
another place for your nose
the matchmaker
let's get it on

the starlet
no photos please

the sponsor
this round is on me

Sonoma County Showcase

Lost Art Salon

 

JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Hey, thanks to everyone for sending NYC tips my way—I officially need to clone myself and get a cow’s stomach (i.e. four) to make this all happen. Oh, and a sugar daddy wouldn’t hurt. Anyway. I can’t wait—leaving Wednesday! So just to manage expectations, I won’t be returning emails very quickly over the next week, and hey, don’t expect a honkin’ tablehopper from me next Tuesday, if I even get one out at all—I have too much fun to attend to! Naturalmente I will be doing up a tablehopper “jetsetter” NYC recap soon after my return.

So I wanted to mention a fun new partnership I think you’ll dig: my pal Pete Mulvihill, the owner of Green Apple Books, is going to be submitting monthly cookbook reviews for the bookworm since I’m not regularly keeping up with my reading (and subsequent write-ups) these days. As an added bonus, any books he mentions are available at 20% off for tablehopper readers for two weeks following the review—simply use the code “tablehopper” at checkout (either at the store or online) for your discount. And hey, it’s a great way to support your local bookseller, especially such a fab one.

In honor of the new partnership, Pete is letting me give away a $50 Green Apple Books gift certificate to one lucky reader! You know the drill: please forward this newsletter to (at least) three pals and just cc luckyme@tablehopper.com so I know you sent it to three folks. The deadline to enter is midnight on Sunday, July 1—I will notify you if you are the winner on Monday, July 2. Buena suerte!

Last week’s highlights? Let’s start with the spiffy drinks at Cantina after the StarChefs event (I was at one with “el poeta”). At the Taste of the Nation/Share Our Strength event at ACME Chophouse, I enjoyed meeting April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman of The Spotted Pig (yes, I am totally going to check it out in NYC!) and guess who totally knocked her chair over backwards upon rising to meet Tyler Florence?! (I’m blaming it on my heavy purse—I was barely tipsy.) The Tortoise show at the Independent was spectacular, and Pride weekend, what can I say, I was having so much fun I had to go and break my phone! So if you texted me this weekend to no avail, sorry! I am now all systems go.

And literally, I gotta go!
Ciao/meow!

~Marcia subscribe


the chatterbox
Sonoma County ShowcaseJUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Okay, coffee fanatics, this is major, as in majorly cool—and I finally get to write about it. After searching for over a year and looking at over 50 places, James Freeman of Blue Bottle is going to be opening ~BLUE BOTTLE CAFÉ~ right off the upcoming Mint Plaza and boy, is it going to be swell. The café is going into the 800-square-foot back space of the Provident Loan building; an interesting fact is the building is an exact blueprint from a Provident Loan Society building in New York. Heck, this historic building was even reportedly mentioned in a Dashiell Hammet book. The front of the SF building was built in the 1910s and will continue to house the higher-end pawn shop/collateral lender, San Francisco Provident Loan Association, off of Mission Street, while Blue Bottle will be moving into the back area which was added in the 1920s.

Imagine this: 18-foot ceilings with period detail, incredible light, and let’s talk about the café! Plan on full coffee service plus some special coffees that will be made from some very special machines (I’ll have to get back to you on that later—James Freeman couldn’t reveal more at this point). A couple granitas will be offered—one coffee (duh) and a seasonal one. Paul Einbund of Coi is helping with the wine list—there will be four to five glasses available ($5-$12), a beer, and knowing Paul, of course there will be a Madeira.

Some of Freeman’s pals from the Ferry Building will be helping out, including Soyoung Scanlan who will be helping with some imported cheeses plus some from Andante as well, and Ryan Farr, the chef de cuisine of Elizabeth Faulkner’s new project Orson is offering some advice on the edibles (there will be perfect poached eggs and toast in the am, and charcuterie in the pm). Chris Ray, the builder, did the Miette patisserie in the Ferry Building and the confiserie in Hayes Valley—Ray will be busy adding the entrance off of Jessie Street. There will be a few tables and a long bar, but what will really beckon is the sunny plaza seating outside. If things proceed well, Freeman is hoping for an opening by Halloween. Address (for now) is 66 Mint Street, until the upcoming entrance on Jessie St. is ready.

Speaking of coffee, seems like I need one because I had no idea the ~PHIL’Z~ location at 18th Street and Sanchez in the Castro had closed until I went to get an iced coffee this weekend, to no avail. According to the Phil’z website things went kaput in the business relationship, so that’s that. You can still get your Phil’z at the original location in the Mission at 3101 24th St. at Folsom, and the new SoMa location at 201 Berry St. at 4th St.

After snagging some serious stars (try three and a half) from the Chronicle while at PlumpJack Cafe, executive chef ~JAMES SYHABOUT~ is returning to Manresa, this time as the chef de cuisine (he previously worked under David Kinch for three years in the Manresa kitchen). Rick Riess, CEO of PlumpJack Group, had the following to say, "We are disappointed to see James go and appreciate his efforts and PlumpJack Cafe, but understand his desire to get involved with biodynamic farming and wish him all the best in his career and future endeavors." Syhabout’s last day will be July 14. I had two meals there and really enjoyed his flair—now it’s yet another reason to go hit the 408 and visit Manresa.

Up in Bernal, the former Aura location is reopening sometime in early to mid July (say, maybe July 10–17) as ~TINDERBOX RESTAURANT~, “an experimental American bistro with a foundation on sustainable food and wine.” The partners want to offer a youthful interpretation of American cuisine, offering a fresh and global take on Cali dining. The project comes from Ryan Russell, who founded Hot Rod Pantry, the in-house catering outfit for 111 Minna. Russell has brought on Blair Warsham, whose resume includes working as the executive sous chef at the General’s Daughter in Sonoma, two years under Daniel Humm at Campton Place, and some gigs in Europe (you can read his entire bio here)—he will be co-cheffing with Russell, and will be a partner in both the restaurant and Russell’s catering company, which will be utilizing Tinderbox’s kitchen.

The menu will feature some playful additions, like the Tinderbox Special, a nightly deluxe appetizer that is a tasting of three items presented in a steel box with porcelain inserts, and will run $11–$12. There will also be the “Keeping It Bernal” prix-fixe menu, with a starter, entrée, and your choice of dessert or a glass of wine that will run in the mid to high $20s. One potential sample menu that floated my way included a starter of crude hamachi with summer melon ribbon, steeped prosciutto and mint oil; banana-wrapped chicken on garlic-potato whip with crispy Kaffir lime leaves for the main; and basil pudding on basil seed syrup with honeycomb for dessert.

Coming on board is Omar White from Pizzaiolo, who will be the GM and overseeing the wine list; John Ragan, now the wine director at Eleven Madison Park in New York (we lost him from Campton Place, along with Daniel Humm) will be consulting on the list, along with Peter Eastlake of Vintage Berkeley (sounds like one hell of a list). Additional elements will include a strong music focus (the host and a partner, Miles Clark, is a sound engineer around town), rotating art by local artists, and they are trying to be as green as possible, using 100% recycled fabrics on the high-backed banquettes, FSC (Forest Stewardship Council)-certified hardwoods on the large L-shaped bar, cork wall paneling, and no VOC (volatile organic compounds) paints. Russell designed the 40-seat space, giving it a clean and modern style, with suede chairs, copper-topped tables, and there is also a private room with room for 8–10 people. It will be open for dinner, 5:30pm–10pm Tue–Sun (until 11pm Fri­–Sat), and serving wine and beer until midnight and a late dining offering; there are also plans for brunch soon. 803 Cortland Ave. at Ellsworth, 415-285-TBOX (8269).

Okay, this is going to bum some folks out, because this place cracks me up every time I’ve been there: the wacky and downright rowdy ~COUNTRY STATION SUSHI~ in the Mission is closing on June 30 after ten years in that location. The landlord is rebuilding and making some drastic structural changes, so they have to close. No more mariachi sushi. The landlord offered the owners the space to eventually have their business there again, but it doesn’t seem to be in the cards at the moment. A few members of the staff can be found at Tamasei Sushi, including the owner and his wife, who opened the space about six months ago. Country Station: 2140 Mission St. at 17th, 415-861-0972. Tamasei: 3856 24th St. at Vicksburg, 415-282-7989.

~SAKE LAB~ on Broadway has been sold, and is morphing into Horizon, a bar/lounge/restaurant that will be launching in early September. The new owners are Duc Luu and Victoria La, who have brought on Ola Fendert of Oola to consult and help manage the business. More details will be forthcoming since they are still working out the concept, but gourmet burgers and a casual late-night vibe were a few things that were mentioned. Look for more details in the coming months. 498 Broadway at Kearny.

So I mentioned last week that ~CHRIS WRIGHT~ is no longer at Aqua—he is now at ~BONG SU~. Can’t wait to see what ends up getting paired with the delicious shrimp cupcakes, heh. Speaking of pairings, Bong Su has a pretty groovy private wine tasting opportunity that was previously only offered to those “in the know.” Bong Su’s beverage director, John McDaniel, hosts complimentary private tastings for guests with dinner reservations at the restaurant—simply arrange a tasting with McDaniel in Bong Su’s tasting room prior to your meal. Upon arrival, guests are shown into the wine room, which contains wines from around the world, including boutique selections from Croatia, Hungary, and the Napa Valley. McDaniel will offer a tasting of wines that pair with small bites from chef Tammy Huynh. It’s also a great time for guests to ask McDaniel about wines they might want to pair with their dinner later. Yes, it’s free. The tastings begin at 5:30pm and are for groups of up to eight people. 311 3rd St. at Folsom, 415-536-5800.

Seems the higher-end menu at ~LA TERRASSE~ just wasn’t what the public wanted (why am I not surprised?) so the menu has changed to a brasserie a la carte style. Items on the menu include moules frites with Pernod, steak frites with béarnaise, and some nightly rotating specials (Monday, cassoulet; Friday, bouillabaisse)—you can check out the entire menu on the website. Don’t forget there is also breakfast and lunch, and there are now heat lamps for the patio, bonus. 215 Lincoln Blvd., 415-922-DINE.

Out in Potrero Hill, the ~GARDEN OF TRANQUILITY~ has closed, and a sushi place is opening called Live Sushi Bar. It should be open either Sunday July 1, or Monday July 2. The owner has been managing over at Mikado, and the sushi chef is from Ebisu. Lunch is Mon–Sat 11am–3pm, and dinner nightly, opening at 5pm. 2001 17th St. at Vermont, 415-861-8610.

Meanwhile, just a hop and a skip away, ~GRAND PU BAH~ (which means “the great crazy crab”) has opened in the Potrero/Showplace Square for lunch and dinner. The menu is Thai and features some seafood specialties, the joint is open late, there is a full bar, and the look is pretty slick (you can take a peek at some photos on Yelp. Open for lunch Mon–Sat 11am–4pm, dinner Sun–Thu 4pm–12am, Fri–Sat 4pm–2am. 88 Division St. at Henry Adams, 415-255-8188.

~SUDACHI~ just opened last Thursday in the old Juni space, offering an array of sushi, sashimi, Asian tapas (like seared Hokkaido scallop with carrot mousse, apple-wood smoked bacon, shiitake mushrooms, maitake mushrooms, and shiso oil), and some specialty rolls from chef-owner Ming Hwang, and his sous chef, Liam Arroyo. You can read up on more deets from my original post back in May here. Dinner is served nightly from 5:30pm–10:30pm. A late-night menu and live entertainment (think jazz and blues) are happening from 10:30pm–1am. 1217 Sutter St. at Polk, 415-931-6951.

For those of you in the restaurant industry, there is a ~THIRD MEETING~ this Thursday, June 28, at Tres Agaves at 3pm. The agenda includes discussing the results of the recent restaurant poll, including tip credit issues, and hopefully agree upon specific action plans. 130 Townsend St. at 2nd.

One more tidbit: for those of you following the ~SF WEEKLY CCA STORY~, here’s a piece about the aftermath from the expose they did.

Lastly, I heard an update from a coordinator involved in saving the ~JOHN BARLEYCORN~: “We have secured a three-month extension of the lease, so the pub will be in business through September. We have a full slate of events planned for July and August to help publicize the situation... Our open letter/petition asking Luisa Hanson to renew the pub's lease has exceeded 3,000 signatures, and we have the backing of the district's business and neighborhood associations, as well as its politicians, so we are hopeful that we can change Ms. Hanson's mind.” For those interested in helping out, or with questions, there is a message line: 415-673-2919.

Got a hot tip? You know I'd love it (and you). Just reply to this email!

 
the sponsor

Sonoma County Showcase

Sonoma County Showcase Weekend of Wine & Food, July 12–15, 2007
Don’t miss the ultimate wine country experience, featuring four days of fantastic wine and food presented by world-renowned winemakers and Sonoma’s top chefs. Enjoy events including private winery lunches and dinners, vineyard experiences, and an extraordinary Sonoma Family Style gala dinner, where six top chefs re-create family recipes from six local wineries at intimate tables hosted by more than 50 winemakers. A sparkling wine reception, live music and dancing, and a spectacular Big Bottle Bid silent auction round out the night.

The weekend culminates with Taste of Sonoma, a two-day grand tasting with more than 100 wineries, 60 chefs, wine seminars, the Sonoma Steel Chef Competitions, and more. Foodies & wine lovers, it doesn’t get any better than this!

For information or reservations, visit www.sonomawine.com/showcase or call 800-939-7666.

 
fresh meat

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Essencia
401 Gough St.
Cross: Hayes St.
San Francisco, CA 94102

415-552-8485

website

Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm
Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10pm
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm

Apps $8–$12
Entrées $21–$26.75
Desserts $4.50–$7


Lost Art Salon

JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO It seemed a while ago everyone was trumpeting the new trend of Peruvian food, with places like Destino, then Limon and Mochica dotting various neighborhoods around the city, along with places like Mi Lindo Peru and Karamanduka, two Peruvian outposts I have yet to visit. Perhaps wave two has started, with even more openings, like Inka’s in the Outer Mission, Piqueo’s in Bernal, and now ~ESSENCIA~ cropping up in Hayes Valley. What is definitely going to differentiate Essencia from the pack, however, is its Cali approach, thanks to Anne Gingrass, formerly of Postrio, Hawthorne Lane, and Desirée, who is the executive chef and a partner in the restaurant. Gingrass has partnered with Carmen and Juan Cespedes, who are from Lima.

The menu borders on compact, but then again, the space is not exactly what I’d call sprawling—the two jive well together. It’s a corner space, with tall windows that look out onto busy Gough Street, with well-heeled shoppers strolling by on Hayes or opera-goers hustling off to a performance. (So for the record, this is not the place to dine if you are trying to have a clandestine din din with your lover—you’ll be practically on display like a “lady” in Amsterdam’s Red Light District.)

The room has a “native modern” look, with gleaming acacia wood tables, patterned banquettes, and I hate to insult the artist, but the enormous painting on the wall with the bounding deer is just not right. Is it a coincidence the leaf-patterned lampshades remind me of the upholstery on the old Hawthorne Lane banquettes? Perhaps.

To the vittles! The menu begins with three different ceviches—my pal and I started with the kampachi topped with a creamy hot yellow pepper sauce ($12). The first thing I noticed is the menu only has a few Peruvian terms on it, so what would be an aji amarillo sauce elsewhere is called a hot yellow pepper sauce here. Personally, I think San Francisco diners are cosmopolitan and curious enough to want to know the authentic names for dishes and ingredients, but then again, I understand the contemporary California perspective of the menu.

Anyway, back to that ceviche—it might be a little heavy on the sauce for some, but what a sauce it was, kicky and smooth, made with evaporated milk, lime juice, and ginger. There was more than enough to enjoy it with the accompanying salad of frisee, cucumber, yam, and giant corn.

We then proceeded to the skewers of grilled beef hearts ($7), always a fave of mine—these were cooked a la plancha, with a tangy cabernet vinegar sauce and a side of bell peppers with a hit of lime. How primal: BEEF HEARTS! You could really note the quality of the beef in this dish (from Marin Sun Farms), versus some of the less than stellar beef you tend to get at the more hole-in-the-wall/mom and pop joints.

The chilled artichoke stuffed with quinoa salad ($12) was refreshing and had swell flavor, but the ’choke had some definitively tough leaves going on. I did love the frizzled shallots and pool of huacatay sauce, which they actually call parsley on the menu—huacatay is known as Peruvian black mint, a tangy herb that I want to get to know better. Why, hello.

My friend went for the pork medallion “tacu tacu” ($19.50), a total extravaganza of flavor. The three breaded pork medallions are made of pork shoulder cooked with spices and pureed onion, and come topped with a quail egg and meow, bacon, plus there’s a scoop of lentils, and a mash of golden lentils that was almost like a dal. The entire spread was hearty, savory, and my friend ate every single gosh-darned bite. Pork has that effect on people.

I went for the chicken with pecans, coarsely shredded Parmesan, and that yellow pepper sauce ($23.50). While it came with a side of rice kept hot in a little Le Creuset casserole, this was the kind of dish I would have preferred to share instead of sit down to all by my lonesome—it was rather rich.

The menu includes some classics, like lomo saltado ($26.75), plus a leg of lamb ($25), and pure to Peruvian form, three seafood dishes, including a traditional chowder I was curious about. Oh, and feel free to ask for the house-made hot sauce if you want a little extra zing. (You like it hot, doncha?)

For dessert, the orange pisco Madeleines with homemade vanilla ice cream ($7) were the clear winner (yay pisco), although the delicate alfajores ($4.5) with their surprise filling of caramel and coconut were also tasty. I think some folks may be challenged by the dense lucuma flan ($6.50)—while authentic, it’s not like the silky custardy flans we tend to expect.

The wines pair well with all this zesty food, with a number of choices from Spain and Argentina. We liked all the wines we drank, and the by-the-glass prices are also friendly, with most hitting at $7–$8 a glass. Our server, for what she lacked in finesse on small points (like pouring the very very end of a bottle of wine in my glass until it was completely vertical over my glass), she made up for in enthusiasm. Everyone here is quite friendly and nice, in fact.

I have been curious about lunch, to wit, the roast pork loin sandwich ($11.35). (Are you surprised?) Speaking of the lunch menu, it has a number of tasty-sounding sandwiches that, while veering a bit from the Peruvian provenance (triple turkey and walnut salad with avocado?), if I was looking for a spot in the neighborhood for a bite, this place would be a good candidate. Also some soups and large salads are available too, like sea bass with a smoked paprika vinaigrette and escarole ($13). Throw in some outdoor seating and heaters, and Essencia is well poised to add some much-needed sabor to the Hayes Valley dining scene.

 
the sponsor

Lost Art Salon

Lost Art Salon is a resource for affordable Modern Era (1900-1960s) paintings, drawings, fine art prints, sculptures, ceramics and glass. This collection of nearly 1,500 original works reflects the major styles and movements from the 20th Century, including Post-Impressionism, Abstract Expressionism, Cubism and Modernism. Pieces are discovered through private collections, auctions, art dealers and antique fairs. Each piece is researched, cleaned, at times restored, and when framed, set into an era-related frame using archival materials.

Located at 245 S. Van Ness (at 13th Street), Ste 303, in San Francisco. Open hours are Tuesday through Saturday, noon to 5pm (until 7pm on Thursdays). (415) 861-1530, www.lostartsalon.com.

 
the lush

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Otis
25 Maiden Lane
Cross: Kearny St.
San Francisco, CA 94101

415-420-3378
website

cafe hours
Wed–Sat 11:30am–3pm

happy hour
Wed–Sat 3pm–8pm

cocktails
nightly 5pm–2am
Sun 8pm–2am

JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO ~OTIS~ is going through a 2.0 kind of makeover, and how timely, it’s just on the brink of its two-year anniversary. Starting July 11, Otis will be offering a daytime café setting, with outdoor seating in the alley (about 20 seats) plus the option to sit indoors as well. The evening cocktails and parties will continue, and I also got some confirmation that the previous “members only” vibe is finito, so unless the tiny club is at capacity, there really isn’t a “list” anymore. The new attitude is also supposed to be a bit more welcoming—looks like I’ll actually consider having a drink there again. Otis is also launching a new drinks menu, with some good specials during happy hour—which includes Saturday, all right!

I just had a peek at Arielle Segal’s Mediterranean-inspired menu, and it’s a good one: there are four kinds of flatbread pizzas (one has soppressata, Niçoise olives, County Line Farms arugula, and Fontina for $12); four kinds of panini (one includes ham, Gruyere, cornichons relish, Dijon herbs de Provence aioli, $11); three tasty salads (how about organic mixed greens, Frog Hollow peaches, ricotta salata, prosciutto, and balsamic vinaigrette, $12); and a couple mixed plates, like smoked trout with buckwheat crepes, chopped egg, capers, red onion, lemon crème fraîche, large $19/small $16. Segal has worked at the Olema Inn, and is also known by some folks for her underground dinner parties (formerly known as Third Floor, and now as Clandestine), which is how owner Damon White discovered her. If all goes well, Otis might expand lunch service to Monday and Tuesday too.

 
the socialite

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Poleng Lounge and Eden Canyon Dinner
Tue., June 26, 2007

Poleng Lounge
1751 Fulton St.
Cross: Masonic
San Francisco CA 94117

415-441-1710

website

seatings 5:30pm–9:30pm

$75


JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Okay, if you are looking for something cool to do tonight, Poleng Lounge is hosting a ~FIVE-COURSE FILIPINO DINNER~ paired with Eden Canyon Vineyard's award-winning wines. Executive chef Tim Luym’s five courses will feature Poleng favorites, such as salpicao and off-menu items only available during special events like Kinilaw and Nouveau Turon. Sounds pretty cool to me.

Eden Canyon is a Filipino owned and operated estate vineyard and winery and has recently won critical acclaim by winning a Silver Medal from the Chronicle's 2007 Wine Competition.

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Lend a Hand to Open Hand
Thu., June 28, 2007

The California Culinary Academy
Bistro 350
350 Rhode Island
Cross: 16th St.
San Francisco, CA

11am–1pm


JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Whatcha doing for lunch this Thursday? Since this is a fundraiser ~LUNCHEON BENEFITING PROJECT OPEN HAND~, and not the CCA, I wanted to mention it. (Students of the “Banquets and Catering” class are hosting this event.) All the supplies have been donated, and they are not charging for lunch, but assisting Project Open Hand with all accepted donations. 

The menu will include a variety of salads (classic Caesar; Southwest potato salad with jalapeño-lime aioli; coleslaw with mango-orange vinaigrette; caprese salad with balsamic reduction); sandwiches (pulled pork with a choice of apricot barbeque or ancho chili barbeque sauce); skewers (pineapple-glazed chicken; teriyaki ginger beef; herb garlic vegetables); and dessert (stone fruit cheesecake; lemon bars; double chocolate brownies; assorted fresh fruit and cheeses), plus beverages (lemonade; watermelon fresca; coffee). It’s one heck of a spread. And benefits a very good cause. 

 
the bookworm

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JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO This is the first of upcoming bookworm pieces from Pete Mulvihill, the owner of Green Apple Books. There are some great books at Green Apple (it’s my favorite bookstore in the city), from food to fiction. And remember, as a tablehopper reader, you get 20% off these books below! (The offer last two weeks, until July 10.) Just mention the code “tablehopper” if you’re there in person, or enter it on the website when checking out. Okay, take it away Pete!

Our shelves in the food and cooking section of Green Apple are bursting with fresh goodies. Here’s the briefest taste of what’s in season.

The most useable (for the home chef) cookbook we’ve received lately is Eric Gower’s ~The Breakaway Cook~. The recipes are almost fusion, but with a twist: they combine everyday staples with a few international ingredients to create easy recipes with zing. Rice flakes add some pop to an otherwise straightforward rock cod in reduced citrus. The Maccha Poached Eggs are also pretty simple, but delicately and scrumptiously flavored with maccha salt (easily made from salt and green tea powder). The “exotic” ingredients that give this book its angle are all available locally—most of them can be found at the Asian markets on Clement Street.

Bonus: Gower’s now a local (after 15 years in Japan), so buying his book helps keep another food-obsessed San Francisco full of pie! If he doesn’t open a restaurant or score his own cooking show soon, we’ll be very surprised. Great concept: easy recipes with international flavor that really pop!

Two brand-new books on sushi compete for your attention right now. Both are narratives, not recipe books. ~The Zen of Fish~ by Trevor Corson focuses on a master Japanese chef and his apprentices while also exploring the history and biology of sushi. ~The Sushi Economy~*, on the other hand, focuses on just how it came to be that you can safely eat raw fish in Kansas City any day of the week—globalization.

Let’s end with a little pork, shall we? Well, a lot of pork. ~Pork and Sons~ is by Stephane Reynaud, a French pork devotee/restaurateur. The book covers everything pig, from slaughter (more than we want to know?) to blood sausages, pates, and terrines to BBQ. It’s also a very beautiful book from Phaidon, an art-book publisher whose recent Silver Spoon (“the Italian Joy Of Cooking” *) was a smash hit here at Green Apple.

Thanks for reading, and bon appetit.

*Please note: Sushi Economy and Joy of Cooking are already discounted 20%, so the tablehopper discount does not apply.

 
the matchmaker

JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO

NOPA is seeking a line cook—like, right now. All we ask for is some skills, a great attitude, and a working brain. Please email Laurence Jossel at laurence@nopasf.com.

 
the starlet

JUNE 26, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Robin Williams brought Billy Crystal to Jardinière for dinner on Saturday. Robin had the red wine braised beef short ribs with horseradish potato puree and herb salad (no word if he gave the various items their own names and voices), and Billy had the rib eye steak with fingerling potatoes, Delta asparagus, bone marrow gremolata, and sauce Bordelaise. Rounding out a full "Traci" tour, they also had lunch at ACME Chophouse before the baseball game on Saturday afternoon, and then again on Sunday. Seems like the boys like their beef?

Okay giiiiirl, RuPaul was in town working, excuse me, promoting her new film Starrbooty that screened Saturday night at Frameline31. Reportedly last Tuesday Ru “happened upon Crepe O Chocolat while wandering around Union Square. She loved it so much that she returned Wednesday and Thursday. RuPaul’s favorite? The quinoa salad and the veggie galette.” Looks like I’m not the only one nutty for quinoa!

Food Network's Guy Fieri of "Guy's Big Bite" was taping a show at The Grubstake on Pine Street on Friday. The owner was reportedly very happy about the experience—they even cooked together in the kitchen.

The Medium of Tibet’s Chief State Oracle, Venerable Thupten Ngodup (“Nechung Kuten”), who is touring the U.S. for the first time this summer, dined with fellow Buddhist monks and guests at Millennium. A pal at Millennium says they were “the most appreciative and gracious private dining room guests we have ever been blessed to host.” Thank goodness, can you imagine if they were difficult guests?