| table of contents | This week's tablehopper: I want to eat a part of it, new york, new york. | |||
the
chatterbox |
JULY 17, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO What the hell, am I leaving town again? Jeesh! When you get this I’ll be in Chicago, and then leaving Wednesday for New Orleans for liver calisthenics, AKA Tales of the Cocktail. Let the good times roll, indeed. After all that jambalaya and po’ boys and gumbo and Sazeracs I’ll be the one rolling. Many of you have been asking about my New Yawk highlights, so here’s a first installment jetsetter piece for you (I hit so many places in NYC there’s no way I could get them all in one report—heck, it might take three), plus a guest wino piece from Ruben Ramiro of the fab Monday Room, who wins my award for best sommelier hair AND mustache, ever. Mad style, that cat. You’ll get more gossip from me in the coming weeks—I’ve got some bags to repack! Oh, and I also want to draw your attention to a special tablehopper dinner in the socialite—would be a great way to finally meet some of you in person over some tasty vittles. Check it! A bientot!
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| JULY 17, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO A friend forwarded this
story to
me about a robber who turned into a hugger after some wine and
cheese. Too good not to share. (The story, and wine and cheese
in general.)
~PALMETTO~, the new incarnation of Home on Union, has opened! Chef Andy Kitko, formerly of Aqua, Gary Danko, Bar Tartine, and Café Boulud in New York, has put together a contemporary Mediterranean menu that looks mighty appetizing. The menu has some small bites, like arancini with tarragon crème fraîche, some pasta dishes (served in two sizes) like sweet corn ravioli with mascarpone and wild mushrooms, and some mains, like chicken Basquiase with roasted peppers, chorizo, and arugula, with none over $24. 2032 Union St. between Buchanan and Webster, 415-931-5006. If I am reading a Yelp posting correctly, I think ~SULTAN~ has reopened in their new digs! (I tried calling on Sunday to no avail, so I’m not 100-percent sure.) 340 O'Farrell St. between Mason and Taylor, 415-775-1709. ~FRJTZ VALENCIA~ has finally opened. Belgian fries in the hizzy. Crepes too. And Chimay! 590 Valencia between 16th and 17th Streets, 415-864-7654. Wowza, we have some serious local talent competing to be the next ~IRON CHEF AMERICA~! How about TWO chefs: Chris Cosentino and Traci Des Jardins! Rawk. There are eight U.S. chefs in all who will compete—the show is called The Next Iron Chef and will air on October 7 on the Food Network. The winner will be included in the super-chef line-up of Mario Batali, Cat Cora, Bobby Flay and Masaharu Morimoto. Other chefs competing include: John Besh (New Orleans, LA), Executive Chef, Restaurant August, Besh Steak, Lüke and La Provence; Jill Davie (Santa Monica, CA), Executive Chef, JOSIE; Gavin Kaysen (San Diego, CA), Chef de Cuisine, El Bizcocho at the Rancho Bernardo Inn; Morou Ouattara (Washington, DC), Executive Chef and Owner, Farrah Olivia; Aarón Sánchez (New York, NY), Executive Chef and Owner, Centrico and Paladar; and Michael Symon (Cleveland, OH), Executive Chef and Owner, Lola, Lolita and Porco. Judging the competition will be Michael Ruhlman (James Beard Foundation Award-winning author, cookbook author and food writer), Andrew Knowlton (Restaurant Editor of Bon Appétit magazine) and Donatella Arpaia (restaurateur and owner of acclaimed New York City restaurants davidburke&donatella and Anthos). Judges will narrow the field until the last chef standing is deemed an Iron Chef and he or she will then take their place behind the counter in the famed Kitchen Stadium to compete in the newest season of Iron Chef America. Bring it!. I didn’t get a chance to come by and check it out, but this last Sunday ~PRESIDIO SOCIAL CLUB~ kicked off their Mai Tai Sundays and suckling pig roasts, which are part of the new nightly specials on offer (prime rib is on Mondays!). Tim Stookey is behind those Mai Tais, so you know they are swell swill. Presidio Social Club is also starting new Sunday hours (cocktails start at 4pm, supper starts at 4:30pm, open until 9:30pm), a Sunday bar special (a pitcher of Mai Tais for two and Pua Pua Platter for $20), and weeknight specials available Sunday–Thursday. Presidio, Bldg. 563, Ruger St., 415-885-1888. Speaking of dranks, to celebrate Peru's independence (on July 28) and the delicious spirit known as pisco, ~CANTINA~ will be featuring eight different pisco cocktails that Saturday night, as well as a flight of three different piscos for their guests' drinking pleasure. 580 Sutter St. at Mason, 415-398-0195. Aspiring Italian wine experts, check this out: ~PERBACCO~ and the Associazione Italiana Sommelier will join together to host the first English-certified Sommelier Training Courses offered in San Francisco. Recognized by the Association de la Sommeliere International, the program is divided into three levels with specific areas of focus, and, at the culmination of the course, students will take an examination to become a Certified Professional Sommelier. It starts August 13, and runs until February 16. It’ll put you back $2,600.00, plus $100.00 in non-refundable Association fees that include some nice perks. The deadline to enroll in the course is July 9. For further information or to register for the course, contact Mauro Cirilli at 415-955-0663. Okay, one more thing on the drinking tip: Jason and Juri over at ~DELL’UVA~, the new casual wine bar in North Beach (just across the street from Nua) said if you come in and mention Marcia/tablehopper, you’ll get a free pizza with the purchase of two glasses of wine. Considering all the wines are $6 a glass, I’d say that’s a good deal. Perhaps this is where the “Marcia rhymes with pizzeria” pronunciation device will be helpful. 565 Green St., between Grant and Columbus, 415-393-9930. Got
a hot tip? You know I'd love it (and you). Just reply
to this email!
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JULY 17, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Since it had been at least a couple years (two years too long) since I’d been in New York, my list of places to hit had become, shall we say, major? With ten days and far too many restaurants to visit, I had to come up with some hard and fast tablehopping rules with my dining musketeers: one dish, one drink per person, per place. So when I was traveling with my wonder duo, we were able to sample three plates total per place. When I was out with just one wingwoman, we’d sample two plates (well, sometimes more, heh). Not a definitive way to judge a restaurant by any means, but it was the easiest way to tablehop around town, check a bunch of places out, and figure out where I want to return next time I’m in the 212, which will be soon, hell yes. We also hit restaurants that mostly resided in the middle price-wise—didn’t dine at the big guns (Daniel, Per Se, etc.) because that would have entailed sitting in one place for three hours, and lifting at least two Benjamins out of my wallet. Next time I’m in town I’d like to commit to some full-scale meals, but this trip was all about hitting the town, tripping the light fantastic. Overall I found New York restaurants really wowed me with all their gorg style and concepts and aesthetics and blessedly late-night hours, but I didn’t have a lot of culinary experiences that really made me say WHOA NELLY. I had a total blast for sure. Fun to the extreme. But was I blown away? A few places, yes (hello Fatty Crab!) but most resided in the zone of pleasant, good, engaging, interesting. But not FULL-ON MEOW. Which is fine. Leaves room for more adventures next time. I’ll call my journey “The Quest for Full-On Meow.” (Not exactly The Iliad, but a bit more fun.) For now, buckle up, and let’s begin: |
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I had this trip’s first New York lunch with a dear pal at ~OTTO~. (Say it: oht-toe, not auto.) I had not established the tablehopper rules yet, so we did a ladies who lunch kind of meal (i.e. ordered to our heart’s content, and not just salads, mind you). This was also the first Batali establishment I'd tried (there were many more this trip—which isn’t the most difficult thing to manifest, swinging a cat, etc.). I loved the rosy hue of the entire space, and I can imagine how the rows of tall standing marble tables in the bar area fill with throngs of the thirsty working masses after they punch the clock. There are two gleaming Berkels in effect in the salumi/olive bar/prep area. Naturally, we had to start with some salumi, so we tried the testa, which looked like stained glass, with hints of orange and clove. The insalata di acetaia, with ribbons of prosciutto, was tasty but the salad actually had some rust around the edges—not something that most Cali restaurants would send out. Three bean salad: yum. Had to try one of the famed flat-top/griddled pizzas (there are something like 17 delish types to choose from, and most are about $13–$14) so we did the pane frattau with a delightful bright tomato sauce, with pecorino and an egg on top (I wanted two eggs, a la Pizzetta 211). For a pizza coming off a flat-top, I’ll give it high marks. (Historic building=they couldn’t put in a pizza oven.) Also tried linguine with cozze (mussels), with hints of saffron and marjoram—there are seven pastas, all $9, can’t argue with that, but the big hunk of lemon peel in our pasta was a bit, shall we say, ungainly? The extensive wine list is a fun one to navigate, and dessert is all about the olive oil copetta, a wicked layered combo of olive oil gelato, passion fruit granita, strawberries, basil syrup, and olive oil and Maldon sea salt on top. Perfetto. |
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Another Batali joint I checked out was ~ESCA~. It’s in the bottom of a random apartment building, but once you’re inside it’s a pleasant space with some rustic touches, nice lighting. Music was a little dated (Moby? Elton John?) and the crowd was a bit too, but we were there early, so it’s not a totally fair judgment. Service was fantastic—snappy and attentive. This joint is famed for starting the now-omnipresent crudo craze—there are at least 15 to choose from, and most are about $16. There’s a tiny bar with room for like four people, so ideally you could snag a seat at the bar and do the crudo tasting (six tastes for $30). We purred over the pink mounds of yellowtail snapper with the crunch of pink Alai salt, and the bluefin tuna carpaccio offered an incredible texture. Really a fab experience. Rounded out this pit stop with a rich Venetian number called egelfino ($17) which was almost like a brandade made with smoked haddock and peas and served with a lovely browned top, and some house made maccheroni alla chittara ($24), with sea urchin and crabmeat. Yeah, really light! And yeah, really delish. Chef Dave Pasternack is on it. I was quite tempted with the array of seafood on the menu (cobia, local monk fish, crispy halibut cheeks...) and again, the wine selection just rocked (love the quartinos!). Supposedly this place gets slammed with a pre-theater crowd, but otherwise if I was dining with my parents in NYC, I’d totally take them here—it was calm, well mannered, and comfortable. Hopefully they’d be paying too—the mains were averaging $32. Would also be a prime spot for a biz lunch—you’d have plenty to write off, or expense. |
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Since we’re in Mario-land, let’s hop over to his villas in España, and visit Casa Mono and ~BAR JAMÓN~. These two are right around the corner from each other, which is handy because while you are waiting for your seat at Casa Mono, you can snag some vino at Bar Jamón, and they’ll even let you amble over with your wine glass. Bar Jamón is a sleek and candlelit little spot where you can edge your way in and hopefully plunk yourself down at a communal-style table, order up some jamón, pan con tomate, your choice of cheeses, maybe some tortilla Espanola, and feel all cozy and close with your neighbors. I wouldn’t go out of my way for a special trip here, but if you’re in the neighborhood and want to cool your jets or just want a good launch pad for the night ahead, this place is muy bueno. |
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I’m just gonna say it: ~CASA MONO~ didn’t really fire me up. Low points: the ventilation was dripping water on my friend’s head. The food came out like a shot, and it showed: our razor clams definitely didn’t have enough time on the plancha. Server was clueless. High points: We were seated quickly (I have heard horror stories about wait times here). The piquillos stuffed with oxtails were tasty enough, and I enjoyed the Hidalgo Manzanilla Posada Pastrana the friendly somm poured for us. If someone else wanted to bring me there to sit at the counter one more time so I could try the skirt steak, and if they were paying, I’d give it another try, but otherwise there are other Spanish joints I’d rather hit up around town. (Like Tía Pol, bummed I didn’t make it to this place, food friends I spoke to luuuurve it.) |
Boqueria |
So, what are those other Spanish joints? I certainly hit plenty of them. One was ~BOQUERIA~, which had a look I wanted to eat up with a spoon. My dining cohort and I got here too late one night, so the menu was pretty limited at that point. Great time sitting at the bar, replete with a cheeky barman who kindly obliged me with an order of the cojonudo (fried quail eggs and chorizo on toast) ($6) even though he told me the kitchen was done for the night. (Good man, he saw the disappointment on my face—I wanted that quail egg.) The fuet (a Catalan pork sausage) had nice flavor, but the soft mound of soprasada spiked with paprika totally put me over the edge. Swoon swoon. I totally want to come back here for a full meal (hello, suckling pig), and would be happy to sip rosy bubbles (Juve y Camps Brut Rose) with some cured meats here any time. Also want to check out the sister restaurant, Suba on Ludlow Street. Chef Seamus Mullen is on a tear. Next time. |
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The recently opened ~MERCAT~ was a sweet spot (and it’s not just because it has “cat” in the name)—I’m glad we hit it before Bruni reviewed it and the masses descended. Loved the menu rich in unfamiliar (to me) Catalan words and dishes. The wide marble bar was delightfully deep—I could even cross my legs comfortably underneath it. Gorg wine display on a mezzanine level, and I was ready to park at the cheese and meat station (flanking the bar) and flip my hazards on and start gnawing away at the jamón leg proudly on display. We did the assortiment d’embotits ($24), which brought a fab assortment of jamón Serrano, lomo, llonganissa, xoriç, sobrassada, and some other meaty treats. The menuts (sweetbreads) ($14) were over-breaded and not very hot, plus the side of woody fennel and overdressed salad was lacking in certain charms. Pffft. Bonus points for the bunyols de bacallà ($10), scrumptious house-cured salt cod fritters that were fluffy and had a nice dark crispy exterior. The rest of the menu is full of traditional dishes, some I have never seen in the U.S. Some folks try braving the cruets for swigs of wine, I played it safe and had mine in a glass. Small twinge of ‘tude at the hostess stand, and the crowd was a little droid (polo shirt swarm in effect) but the vibe was fun—perfect early-evening spot, actually. Downstairs there’s a basement where they serve a smaller selection of tapas (cash only)—the place is ripe for subterranean escapades. |
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Thirsty from those fritters? Me too. It’s time for a DRANK. Here were my two favorite watering holes (although I will definitely be mentioning more): ~LITTLE BRANCH~, how I love thee. This place was so lovely I went twice. Deco dream, underground (yes, you are supposed to go down those steep stairs, you have the right address), tinkling glasses, cozy booths, gorg gorg drinks. My drinking cohort ordered my cocktail as such: “something bourbon and refreshing” and that is was; just tell them the flavors you like and it shall appear. Bartenders and servers with pompadours and vests and silver arm garters and suspenders. The Milk and Honey de rigueur large ice cubes (these are chipped off a block). A combination metal straw and stirrer (don’t bite it). Some drinks arrive in coupes. Loved the slightly dank moldy smell of the room. Oil-lit lamps casting soft buttery intimate light. Painted corrugated metal low ceiling. The candlelit bathroom has cloth towels and was one of the few places in all of New York with toilet seat covers (nice hotels included); be sure to read “the rules.” Jazzy music, at times a touch too tinny on the challenged system was my sole sniff—heard there is occasionally live jazz/musique, now that’s hott. Wouldn’t try this place on the weekend, but mid-week was in the pocket. Open until 3am nightly. Triple X. |
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Tucked away on a mostly residential street in the L.E.S. is ~DEATH & CO.~ (the name comes from a Dashiell Hammett piece). Pass through the heavy wood doors, sidle on up to the marble bar, admire the petite chandeliers, the jazzy vibe, the low wood-slat ceilings, engraved glass tables, bartenders in vests, and open the smart menu with at least four juleps to choose from (my kind of place). I also enjoyed my Bitter French, with Champagne, Plymouth Gin, Campari, and lemon juice. Have fun with the bartenders here—they are happy to concoct on the fly, and try things out on you. They also measure, measure, measure, good lads. There’s a small kitchen, so you can order late-night bites like the mac ‘n’ cheese cleverly served in ten spoons. But be quiet outside because the cranky neighbors don’t need any ammo against this little gem of a place. |
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Probably one of my favorite discoveries that showcased the art of food and wine was the ~MONDAY ROOM~, a spiffy wine bar in an annex connected to PUBLIC. (I never got to dine at PUBLIC, but it was definitely a captivating scene, and the design of the place is as clever as it is cool, thanks to the tastemaking design and concept firm, AvroKO.) The Monday Room feels like a groovy little reading room, with black leather button-back booths and armchairs where you can sit and curl up with a nice glass of riesling. My sole kvetch with the design is the tables make it impossible to cross your legs if you’re sitting in one of the booths. Not a deal breaker, by any means. Chef
Brad Farmerie has crafted a menu of 10–14 scrumptious
canapes for the Monday Room that come out of the PUBLIC kitchen.
I was happy to see some antipodean ingredients on the menu, like
dukkah and Tasmanian sea trout. We started with a lovin’ spoonful
of glazed eel with pickled bean sprouts that had a satisfying little
crunch up against the smooth and soft-boiled quail egg, equally
matched in swoon factor by the cordial glass layered with a sensuous
dashi custard, lobster, and caviar. You can pick a few bites, or
do the deluxe tasting menu ($75), with five courses and paired
wines. This is where wine steward Rubén Rubero will totally work
his magic, pairing fantastic wines that are somewhat unbelievably
being poured by the glass. I loved his tableside manner, totally
charming and enthusiastic, and you get a great education about
each wine he pours—it’s like they are all his children
and he’s telling you all about their quirks and proclivities.
(Which is why I had him write a piece for the
wino, check it out.) Or if
you just want to just have a liquid evening, you can come in for
sole glasses of wine, or mini-flights of whites and reds, ranging
from $19–$40. Check it! |
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JULY 17, 2007 | The Australian Pearls by Rubén Sanz Ramiro, Wine Steward at the Monday Room Hailing from Spain's Ribera del Duero, Rubén Sanz Ramiro brings his warmth and adventurous spirit to New York's Monday Room as its Wine Steward. His prior work experience includes stints at Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck, where he worked with a list of 1,500 titles and matched wines with chef Blumenthal's unique renditions of molecular gastronomy; and at The Providores with chef Peter Gordon, where got a solid grounding in the food and wine of New Zealand. For The Monday Room, Ramiro seeks out bottles distinguished by expert winemaking and distinct expression of terroir, often exploring lesser-known regions and producers, ensuring that his customers are always in for a surprise. One of the great pleasures in moving from London to New York to work with Public and its sister restaurant, the Monday Room, has been collaborating with chef Brad Farmerie. Brad’s enthusiasm for Australian food and wine is infectious, and it has led me on my own path of discovery, giving me the chance to learn more about the hidden gems of this country’s wines. When we think about premium Australian wines, we easily tend to think about reds. Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and old vine Grenache garner well-deserved attention and high scores from the critics, and adoration from consumers. However, it is Australia’s white wines, specifically those made from Riesling and Semillon, that I feel deserve special attention because in the hands of a talented winemaker, they are yield wines that have great class and a style that is not duplicated anywhere in the world, and, at the highest levels, are eminently age-able. The Riesling style is bone dry, crisp, and steely and offers flavors of citrus fruit in its early ages. The wine, as the greatest Rieslings from other areas in the world, can age for decades, acquiring notes of toast, kerosene, honey and offer great levels of complexity. The finest Rieslings come from South Australia, most notably the regions of Clare Valley and Eden Valley, as well as some parts of Western Australia. Clare Valley in the north offers the most distinctive style: dry, austere in the first years of its life, showing a firm structure, high acidity, and suggestions of lime flavors. After five or six years in the bottle the wine becomes softer, offering a complex palate and nose, with notes of riper fruit and toast. The region is broken into a series of sub-regions: Auburn, Clare, Leasingham, Polish Hill River, Seven Hill, Watervale, and White Hut. Within Clare, the wines of Polish Hill are characterized by a distinct minerality, while those from Watervale have a floral style thanks to the limestone-rich soil. South of Clare Valley, and close to Barossa, is Eden Valley. Here Riesling is crafted in a style that is broader, being fuller and softer in the palate than the steely Rieslings from Clare. As in Clare, these wines truly benefit from aging, becoming really attractive as they mature. Western Australia too has beautiful Rieslings, particularly those from the cool climate region of Great Southern, whose sub-regions of Frankland, Denmark, and Porongurup offer the most success growing for growing this grape. Like the Riesling from Clare or Eden, it ages perfectly, maybe reaching its peak earlier than in the sister regions in South Australia. The wine is quite austere in its youth having crisp acidity, a citrus fruit character, as well as herbaceous notes. To find great Semillon, we move from Western Australia, across the continent, to New South Wales. Here, in the Hunter Valley we find the most northerly of Australia’s wine regions that produce some of the country’s most classically elegant yet under-appreciated wines. This hot climate region is divided in two areas, Upper and Lower Hunter, the latter producing some of the country’s better examples of Semillon. Here, Semillon is crafted in a traditional manner: the grapes are picked early for low ripeness; the must is fermented in stain steel vats; and the wines are bottled without malolactic fermentation. The initial result is thin, grassy and almost painfully acidic; at this point the wine does not merit much attraction. Yet age it for around ten years during which time the wine will go through a magical transformation, emerging broader, rounder and with a constellation of flavors of toast, butter, nuts and honey. For the patient collector, Semillons from Hunter are an excellent investment. Riesling
and Semillon from Australia are in the “pole position” to
be my favorite wines from Australia. |
Cortez 415-292-6360 6:30pm mingle $75
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JULY 17, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO I’ve had this idea in the hopper for a while (har), and now I think it’s time to try it! I’ll be hosting my ~FIRST TABLEHOPPER SUPPER~ at Cortez, with Champagne and bites and conversation for the first hour, and then a sit-down four-course dinner for 25 will begin at 7:30pm. Envision a fun crowd of fellow food-obsessed folks (yes, you). Co-executive chefs Seth Bowden and Louis Maldonado have put together a fab feast, check it: ~Trio of amuse There is a vegetarian option available, just let Cortez know when booking. All this for $75 with wine pairings, and tax and tip included. Meow! Just call Cortez and mention you want to book your spot at the tablehopper supper. I really look forward to seeing you there!
UPDATE: Sold out. Thanks, everyone! |
JULY 17, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Bobby Flay and his wife Stephanie March (from Law and Order: Special Victims Unit) were spotted at the Ferry Building Marketplace. Rosario Dawson partied down at the Ambassador. Her posse consumed a few—or should I say quite a few—bottles of Dom Perignon. Tres Agaves was busy with all kinds of folks attending the All
Stars Game: Rev. Jesse Jackson and his daughter,
the seven Top Gun pilots who did the pre-game
flyover, and Cal Ripken were all spotted. |
JULY 17, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO ACCOUNT
MANAGER (Public Relations & Marketing) For more information please visit www.andrewfreemanandco.com or email us your resume at info@andrewfreemanandco.com
Cortez Restaurant is hiring a line cook. A minimum of one year fine dining experience a must, culinary school helpful but not essential. We hire only serious cooks who can clearly see their goal of being a serious chef, because if you don't have that drive to excel then you won't cut it here. Please ATTACH AND PASTE your resume into the body of your email response to job-ap@cortezrestaurant.com, or fax it to (415) 923-0906, Attn: hiring manager. Compensation: $10.50 p/h plus overtime. |
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