the chatterbox
the word on the street
the regular
it's about time we met
the socialite
shindigs/feasts/festivals
the bookworm
another place for your nose
the health nut
take a lap, tablehopper
the starlet
no photos please

the sponsor
this round is on me

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Oh, the temptation to go to the beach and blow off this week’s ‘hopper. It feels like our last hurrah. But that would be totally irresponsible now, wouldn’t it? Then again, I know you wouldn’t put it past me.

Since we’re on the subject of bad habits, one could say I am contributing far too much to your drinking proclivities with my weekly “where to booze” reports, with who is pouring what, where. Well, cheers to that. Here’s your chance to enjoy a beer, or whatever else you decide to pour in it, in a custom Upper Playground beer mug designed by SF artist Jeremy Fish. I adore the walrus—it’s exactly how you should look and feel after a few mugs of suds, foam mustache included. Thanks to the cool cats at Upper Playground, I am giving away three mugs, so all you need to do is forward the tablehopper newsletter to three of your fave drinking buddies, and just cc luckyme@tablehopper.com. (I won’t use anyone’s emails for anything—this is just to track how many folks you forwarded it to!). Deadline to enter is midnight on Sunday, October 28. I’ll notify the winner early next week! Hic!

Speaking of hic (!), tonight is WhiskeyFest, so you know where I will be (AFTER working out, thankyouverymuch).

Now stretch. And swirl. Hic.

~Marcia

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO

One odd omission: where is Chez Spencer in the book? And it’s French, mon dieu! And since inspectors started dining in the city last November, I don’t totally understand the absence of places like Presidio Social Club, which opened in the beginning of the year. Others missing include La Ciccia, the Alembic, the Front Porch, Da Flora, and some other small to mid-size spots, but then you have little joints like Pagolac and Pancho Villa in there, so it can’t be based on size alone.

I know, nothing is perfect, and everyone has his or her opinion. I do like the book’s listing of places that are a good value under $40 (the “Big Gourmand” listings), and under $25. The wine country listings are useful. All these things, and more, very well may be discussed during the Michelin and tablehopper panel discussion tomorrow evening at the Ferry Building. You’ll also be able to pick up copies of the book then (it’s not released until tomorrow).

Oh, and in the fastest posting ever category, The Restaurant at Meadowood, which scored two stars, posted an ad on Craigslist mere hours after the announcement looking for two line chefs, and it mentions their two stars. And quotes extensively from their Chronicle review. Well.

To the news! Executive chef Anna Bautista has left ~NUA~ in North Beach. Bautista says she was “happy with what they built and they had a great run,” but it seems there was a difference in opinion about vision for the restaurant. She also stated she was grateful and happy with the experience establishing herself there. We’ll see where she lands next—she said she has some temporary work lined up at the moment. No comment from owner David White. 550 Green St. at Jasper Place, 415-433-4000.

More in the female executive chef departures file: executive chef Christine Mullen has left ~CAV WINE BAR & KITCHEN~, after opening the restaurant back in September 2005. It is reportedly an amicable departure. Mullen is experiencing what many female chefs go through: she’s 37 and thinking about kids, and being swallowed up running a restaurant kitchen might not be the best fit for that eventual game plan. I’ll keep you posted—it’s sounding like she will be starting a catering outfit. Taking her place is Michael Lamina, who started as a sous chef at CAV in January. His background includes working as a sous at Grand Café, line cook at Farallon, and sous chef at Stage Left in New Brunswick, NJ. Mullen says, “I have a lot of faith in the kitchen crew” and “he [Lamina] has the energy, ambition, and talent to do it well.” 1666 Market St. at Gough, 415-437-1770.

~TROYA~ on Clement not only has a new chef, but the style will be shifting a bit as well. The restaurant originally opened with a chef from Turkey, but owner Berk Kinalilar wants to modernize the cuisine, adding a more contemporary and sophisticated approach, focused less on “old-fashioned food,” as he put it. The new chef is Randy Gannaway, 34, formerly a sous at Aziza, and he was also at girl & the fig and the Carneros Inn in Sonoma. Look for a new menu in the coming weeks, with Turkish cuisine as a base, but integrating Mediterranean influences. 349 Clement St. at 5th, 415-379-6000.

Hayes Valley is slated to have another sushi joint in the ‘hood, ~DOMO~, by late November—it’s moving into the Tinhorn Press/Gallery space. Domo (as in “thank you”) is going to be a casual neighborhood spot, with a menu of traditional sushi, and some “good surprises” too. Behind the venture are Luke and Kitty Sung of Isa in the Marina, and Luke’s high-school buddy, Ku Wa, will be the sushi chef. Wa was formerly at Osho in Millbrae, and was most recently in Hawaii, and downtown at Hana Zen. The place will have 20 seats, with room for eight at the bar. Look for lunch and dinner six or perhaps seven nights a week, and hours for now are 11am–11pm. 511 Laguna St. at Linden.

After The Blue Muse and Sage lost their lease after 25 years of business in Hayes Valley (Breezy’s and Hayes & Kebab took over the two spaces), owner Sidney Wong is reopening both businesses in the Performing Arts Garage on Grove. Well, kind of. ~THE BLUE MUSE~ is moving into what was a parking authority office (I remember trying to get a freaking parking permit from them some years ago) and should open in November. Look for an Asian fusion menu with French touches, with lunch and dinner offered, 50 seats, and a full bar. Hours will be 10:30am–10pm, and will stay open later to accommodate the post-performance crowd. 370 Grove St. at Gough.

A few doors down in the former Café Allegro space will be ~SAGE~, a casual spot offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with salads, sandwiches, coffee, and tea. Wong retained his old chefs from both places. It will also have about 50 seats, and is slated to open by the end of the year. I know, brave man, opening two restaurants at once? It’s enough to make anyone crazy. 340 Grove St. at Gough.

A block away, Eater SF reported that ~ZOYA~, the restaurant in the tower of the Days Inn, and the former home of Midori Mushi, is closing. Something called Double Dacker is moving in—all will be revealed. 465 Grove St. at Gough, 415-626-9692.

Over in North Beach, ~EGUNA BASQUE~ is reopening after being temporarily closed for the past few months. Chef-owner Jason Rucker is shifting the concept and menu to be more focused on lunch and dinner, with crepes, salads, and soups, and less about the previous “café” incarnation with pastries and sandwiches. WiFi will still be available. Look for the reopening on November 2. Hours will be 11am–11pm (days of closure are still TBD). 1657 Powell St. at Union, 415-362-2141.

Just around the corner, moving into the ~FOGON~ space will be a Thai restaurant. More on that soon. 659 Union St. at Powell.

In the “interesting” file, I had a reader inquire what was moving into the ~DALLA TORRE~ space, up near Julius’s Castle. A restaurant will not be happening—a couple bought the space and are converting the historic building into a private residence. For those who dig SF restaurant history like I do: back in the 1930s it was a place for cheap meals by candlelight (as a cost-cutting measure, not because it was romantic), and that’s how it earned its original name, “The Shadows.” There was a fire in the 1950s, and it was rebuilt, eventually morphing into Dalla Torre. Anyone know anything else about the history? 1349 Montgomery St. at Filbert.

A new Hawaiian joint is slated to open in the Buchanan Mall in Japantown in November, ~HONU’S ISLAND GRINDS & BAR~. It is reportedly going to serve “real Hawaiian food” with some healthy offerings like a poke bar, healthy salads, dishes made without trans fats, vegetarian entrées [read: sans SPAM], and yes, some pupu action. There will also be sweets from Yasukochi's Sweet Stop, plus espresso drinks, too. The restaurant is moving into the former Kansai Restaurant space, and comes from Edgar Dang, owner of the Aloha Warehouse, and Pat Fong. They are gunning for late-night hours, and live entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights. 1737 Buchanan St. at Sutter.

Bar-meisters Dominic Venegas and Carlos Yturria are taking over the bar program at ~BACAR~, which they incidentally helped establish in its earlier years. They are now referring to the downstairs area as "bacar below," offering classic cocktails from historic jazz clubs like The Stork Club and The Cotton Club to accompany music from local jazz artists who know how to rock it, like Dr. Bill Bell, Donald "Duck" Bailey, and Scott Amendola. There is no cover, and you can order the full menu downstairs. Carlos and Dominic will be behind the bar on Friday nights only, and start things off this Friday, October 26th, so swing on by. 448 Brannan St. at 4th, 415-904-4100.

For those of you wondering wassup with the ~ROOSEVELT TAMALE PARLOR~, they are hoping to pass inspections this week. Stand by.

A new addition to the healthy Mexican food scene in the Western Addition: not only is there Green Chile Kitchen and a second Papalote location, but there is now ~THE LITTLE CHIHUAHUA~ on Divis.  (Is the name a little redundant, like frozen ice?) Look for burritos and tacos with Niman Ranch meat, and healthier ingredients like whole-wheat tortillas. Oh, and not-as-healthy beer on tap. Open daily for lunch and dinner until 10pm. 292 Divisadero St. at Page, 415-255-8225.

Another Western Addition tidbit: ~ONE WORLD CAFÉ~ on McAllister and Baker had a slight refresh, and is now serving sandwiches made with organic ingredients, and there’s a petite grocery area too, with a small selection of pastas, olive oils, cheese, and the like. 1799 McAllister St. at Baker, 415-776-9358.

And now, your openings update!

In the impressive timing department, ~BIN 38~ is opening this Wednesday. I was looking at the menu, and it has some tasty sounding numbers, like a Bellwether Farms ricotta tart with warm chanterelle mushroom and radicchio salad ($10); a mussel and oyster pan roast, with coriander, beer broth, grilled bread, and aioli ($13); and grilled quail with fresh pork sausage, coarse polenta, and roasted persimmons ($15). In an interesting twist, the menu suggests both wine and beer pairings for each dish. Maybe I need to show up with my Upper Playground walrus mug. Oh, and hello éclairs on the menu. 3232 Scott St. at Chestnut.

This Saturday, the 27th, ~HORIZON~ will be open in North Beach, serving up those burgers everyone is so fired up about (you can choose from eight different kinds of meat, including tofu) plus some American-Med dishes as well. Open late, until 2am nightly. Sidebar: the prelim website looks like a movie screen to me, total letterbox action. Now starring! 498 Broadway St. at Kearny, 415-576-1118.

Also opening this Saturday to the public is ~MECCA SF~—it’s been closed since that bummer of a fire in June. I got to peek at executive chef Randy Lewis’s preliminary menu, and some of the dishes that jumped out were green tomatoes with burrata, country ham prosciutto, and corn bread croutons; Dungeness crab beignets with bread and butter pickle remoulade (I guess we have to wait a month for that one); crespelle with ricotta pudding, cauliflower, pine nuts, and sweet and sour golden raisins; and salt-crusted steak, with steak sauce-glazed cipollini onions. Uh, yum. There will also be a seven-course tasting menu.

Changes to the space include a 20-foot backlit alabaster wall when you enter, new red wine velvet curtains throughout, dramatic new chandeliers and artwork, a 15-foot wood and steel standing bar that expands the bar area and will shelter diners in the front of the restaurant from the bar scene, plus new upholstery and carpet in the lounge, a new sound system, and some other spatial changes, like new booths. The kitchen also got tricked out, with some Montague stoves (drool) and a wood fired grill.

Look for all kinds of events, like the reopening celebration with some passed apps and champers on Saturday starting at 5pm, and then opening again on Tuesday, with a reservation-only special party on Wednesday for Halloween (called Temple of Doom, $60, with heavy passed apps, a costume contest, DJ, and going until 1am). On Thursday, November 1, is the return of Ladies Night Out—no dinner will be served that night, just a bar menu and apps because you know it’s gonna be a rager. Friday means business as usual, with the famed happy hour that will continue nightly from 5pm–7pm (but oysters are now half-price), plus some special drinks, and infused cocktails for $6. Welcome back, MECCA. 2029 Market St. at Church, 415-621-7000.

The other project that has been keeping MECCA co-owner Steve Weber and executive chef Randy Lewis busy busy is the launch of ~BEST-O-BURGER~, their new burger spot opening by Christmas in Belden Alley (in the old Mrs. Field’s location). Look for handmade burgers of 100% Angus beef that are seared in cast-iron skillets, and then sandwiched in oven-fresh buns baked onsite daily. There will also be bags filled with half onion rings and half fries (called “Strings and Ring-O’s”) fried in rice oil, plus gelato from some Roman guy, and cookies and snacks from customer recipes. Hours will be daily 11am–9pm, and breakfast and late night hours may be coming too—just think, you’d be able to pull right up since the parking is kind of mellow around there late at night. There will be some stand-up counters, and they are hoping for a few tables outside. Two more locations are currently being considered around town, and Weber is launching a “Sunday School” fundraising program for kids, where little ones will learn how to make and serve burgers, with funds going to their school. 493 Pine St. at Belden.

In addition to MECCA’s Halloween party, some other goulish parties around town include:

~CANTINA~ will be awarding $500 to the best costume! They will also be opening the downstairs to the public for the first time. $10 admission at the door starting at 9pm. Someone is gonna be drunk, I have a feeling, and Shotzi will be the one to blame! 580 Sutter St. at Mason, 415-398-0195.

I also heard ~ELIXIR~ is doing something…

For those of your curious about ~DARK DINING SF~, they are hosting a dinner on Halloween. It’s $95, and you’ll get pre-dinner drinks, a three-course meal plus a cheese plate, paired wines, and after-dinner liqueur. They also got blindfolds, so the not-so-dark situation was rectified, and they reportedly worked out some kinks with the food too.

~MAVERICK~ is hosting their 2nd Annual Mystery Night on Halloween night, when chef Scott Youkilis and his kitchen staff will set out to deceive their diners and test their food knowledge. Guests are served three courses, each paired with a wine, and will make their best attempt to guess the ingredients and the wine grape varietal.  Whoever has the most points will win a fab bottle of wine. 6pm–10pm, multiple seatings. 3316 17th St. at Mission, 415-863-3061.  

There are also a couple harvest festivals going on around town: first is the ~FERRY BUILDING MARKETPLACE HARVEST FESTIVAL~ running Friday October 26–Sunday October 28, kicking off with a CCOF Organic Wine & Beer Tasting this Friday from 4pm–8pm, with more than 25 organic wineries and breweries represented. Tickets will be offered at the door, $25 for 10 tastes or $15 for 5 tastes, which includes a commemorative souvenir glass. The weekend brings honey tastings, cooking demos, olive oil tastings, and ends on Sunday with the Barnyard by the Bay, a hands-on farm animal corral for kids. For more information on the Harvest Festival visit www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com.

This Saturday, ~CHEESE PLUS~ is hosting their third annual fall harvest festival from 11am–6pm, with more than 20 local bay area artisan food vendors offering samples of their handmade foods throughout the day. Free. 2001 Polk St. at Pacific, 415-921-2001.

Got a hot tip? You know I'd love it (and you). Just reply to this email!

Mums Home of Shabu-Shabu
1800 Sutter St.
Cross: Buchanan
San Francisco, CA 94115

415-931-6986
website

Daily 7am–10pm

Shabu-shabu $22.95
All-you-can-drink $12.05

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Are you ready to go to battle, soldier? What? I can’t hear you! Because where I am about to take you is loud, sweaty, and chaotic—there will be pots of boiling water, sake bombs going off left and right, drunk and unpredictable civilians, and hot shrapnel of unruly udon noodles that will burn your tender G.I. skin. It’s trench-dining warfare, soldier!

Who knew that ~MUMS HOME OF SHABU-SHABU~ is the belly of the beast? Colonel Kurtz would have a field day with this place. Because every night one of San Francisco’s most outrageous deals designed for over-consumption is on offer: all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu and drinks, for $35 (or just $22.95 for the shabu-shabu, and $12.05 for all-you-can-drink sake, beer, and soda). Unlimited beef and beer. I know, if that isn’t a recipe for disaster, what is? There is a limit (two hours), but as any drinker knows, a lot of damage can be done in two hours. All it takes is one look at the neighboring tables, and it’s quite apparent.

This place explodes like a Molotov cocktail with young, rowdy, energetic drinkers and diners. If you’re not afraid to count yourself within that camp, this might be the outfit for you. It’s best to come with a squad of at least four folks (you have to have a minimum of two to do the shabu-shabu). Come hungry. (Although don’t come hangry—you might hurt someone if there’s a long wait. Make reservations, especially Thursday–Saturday.)

Time to lock and load. Your group will swish swish (which is what shabu-shabu means) pieces of thinly sliced and marbled raw rib-eye beef in your table’s very own pot of boiling water for a few seconds with your chopsticks. You then dip the beef in one of the two sauces (ponzu or peanut/goma—although the second sauce is much better with the veggies) and then eat it up. Sounds like a simple maneuver, right?

Well, you also get a big plate of vegetables, a diorama of sorts, which includes spinach, tofu, shiitake and enoki mushrooms, and both glass and udon noodles. You cook these extra items in the hot water, scooping them out with the utensils provided, and then dipping them in your sauces. I also like adding some of the daikon provided to my bites, and scallions, and the shichimi Japanese pepper.

This is where the chaos ensues: udon noodles flop out of the hot pot, you lose your beef in the hot water (excellent fodder for a drinking game), someone steals your tofu… mix all this with the endless flow of sake (hot or cold) and beer (Sapporo, Asahi, or Kirin draft) and things start getting wacky. Who let the dogs out?

Now, let’s add in the atmospheric element of everyone YELLING REALLY LOUD and laughing and cheering and egging each other on. It’s loud, like air raid loud. Gatling gun loud. The mums name must have something to do with the flower, because mum is definitely not the word here.

Oh wait, and did I mention the swamp-like conditions? Seriously, it’s like being back in Nam. So wear a short-sleeved shirt, even if it’s 45 degrees outside that night. And ladies, leave the Tammy Faye Bakker war paint/makeup at home, because you’re gonna look like you’ve been crying over your lost puppy or something in four minutes flat. Go natural.

Considering the coup d'état chaos of this place, I am beyond impressed with the kindness of the servers, who are stuck dealing with cross-eyed-drunk clientele all night. The staff will continue bringing you plate after plate of meat and veggies without raising a single “you aren’t done yet?” eyebrow, and keep filling your hot pot with water until you wave the flag, or your time is up, or you simply pass out.

Is it the best quality of rib-eye beef? No, but it’s not scary mess hall style either. On my two visits here, the veggies have been fresh, and while I’d actually prefer some broth instead of hot water, all in all it’s one heck of an entertaining dining experience. But remember the noise, the chaos, the steam bath… I wouldn’t recommend this restaurant to many on just one of those factors alone—some just aren’t ready for combat yet.

The place is super cute—it was recently redone with a groovy 70s aesthetic, featuring bright orange tables and space age panels on the ceiling, modern bent wood chairs, and it has a cool bar (yes, there is a full bar)—it’s almost like TWO’s adopted Japanese sister. Mums is a family-run business that has been around since 1979, back when it was Café Mums—be sure to check out the cool portraits on the walls.

Mums also serves a diner-style breakfast, and lunch means a mixture of burgers and combination lunch sets with tonkatsu or rice dishes—there is shabu-shabu lunch too, but no dice on the all-you-can eat and drink.

When you need to venture to the bathroom downstairs (after all that beer and sake, it’s inevitable), you’ll be able to take a peek at the quirky lobby of the new Hotel Tomo. At the end of your military exercise, you are rewarded with either vanilla or green tea ice cream, a refreshing finish marking the end of your battle in the retro sauna. Lights out, soldier.

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One Night, One Heart
Zen Hospice Project
Sun., Nov. 4, 2007

Various locations

website

6pm

$275–$1,000
tickets

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO A lot of fundraiser events cross my desk, but I have to hand it to ~ONE NIGHT, ONE HEART~ for creativity: the Zen Hospice Project is hosting a variety of dinners around the Bay Area, 14 in all. Some are in private homes, or restaurants (like Jack Falstaff, or Frascati), or at interesting locations like the tower at the de Young. Each dinner will feature different cooks/chefs/caterers, interesting special guests, and fab hosts. But you can’t choose which dinner you get (unless you go in one of the higher tiers), so don’t get too wedded to one, unless you have some ducats.

The hosts, participating restaurants, and caterers are generously providing this year's dinners. All proceeds will support the volunteer and educational programs of Zen Hospice Project. It’s a wonderful cause and what is sure to be a unique evening, check it out if you can.

Sugar Rush
Mon., Nov. 5, 2007

111 Minna St.
Cross: 2nd St.
San Francisco, CA

website

6pm–8pm

$25/pre-event
$30/door
tickets

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Another cool-sounding fundraiser is ~SUGAR RUSH~, a happy hour fundraiser that will include dessert tastings from some of San Francisco's best restaurants and bakeries, including Boulevard, Patisserie Philippe, Bong Su, Range, and A16. There will also be wine and a silent auction. 

The fundraiser benefits a youth apprenticeship and empowerment program called Spark. The program finds middle school students (the majority from low-income, immigrant families) apprenticeships in their dream jobs. This fall, they have students building robots at NASA, designing video games, teaching preschool, and even flying a small plane. 

Please consider buying your tickets in advance. Donations to Spark are tax-deductible.

Cheap Bastard’s Guide to San Francisco
Secrets of Living the Good Life—for Free!
By Karen Solomon

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO I know it can be tough living in this city, with expensive rent, spendy restaurants, ridiculously priced tickets from the DPT (it is soooooo out of hand), even the cost of yoga classes is enough to stress you out. Enter the ~CHEAP BASTARD’S GUIDE TO SAN FRANCISCO~. While writer pal Karen Solomon can’t help you with evil DPT tickets, she can point you to awesome happy hours around town, good deals for haircuts and color, early-bird dinner specials, and she even mentions some buffets in there.

And since we’re on the subject of cheap, Green Apple Books will offer this book at 20% off for tablehopper readers for two weeks following this review—simply use the code “tablehopper” at checkout (either at the store or online) for your discount. If you go to the bookstore, you can check out what books are in their “free” bin too, heh. Thanks for that tip, Karen!

My dedicated Titan compatriots!

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Guess who is beginning to enjoy her weekly regimen? It’s funny how having set weekly workout appointments makes you schedule around them. Working out is the easiest thing to cancel: “Oh, I’m too busy, I have to keep working” or “I’m tired, I don’t feel like working out” or “I’m kind of hungry, I’d rather eat.” But instead, knowing I have my two Titan Fitness trainers tracking whether I am coming to fit camp or not keeps me seriously accountable.

We’ve been doing some cool exercises with weights, and whoa, my arms are actually beginning to show a difference. Like, they are actually a little firmer. (You know those little wing flaps ladies tend to get? Uh huh, those. My friend and I call them “Hi Helens”—can’t remember where we got that from, but it’s what happens when you see you friend and you wave furiously at her, screeching “Hiiiiiii Helen!” and there goes that skin under your arm, flap flap flap! No thanks! So here’s to saying, “Goodbye Helen!”)

I don’t think my compatriots appreciate how much I keep asking for extra ab work during out workout sessions (sorry gang!). It’s the area where my job has just assailed me. Nothing quite of note is happening there. Hopefully soon.

OCTOBER 23, 2007 | SAN FRANCISCO Morgan Spurlock (of Super Size Me) was spotted dining on rotisserie Berkshire pork at Kokkari. Nope, no Smithfield there!

American Idol runner-up Melinda Doolittle gave a surprise mini-concert at One Market to a group hosting a private banquet (Doolittle is related to one of the folks in the company who held the event). Both the banquet attendees and staff members working the event were totally charmed. Earlier that same day, Governor Schwarzenegger made an appearance at a private luncheon.