JANUARY 22, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO You
know, sometimes I hear things, but usually I have to go out and
find things. (Thank you Google, I couldn’t do my job
half as well without you.) But wow, let’s hear it for when
I discover news totally by accident. Surprise! I was trying to
confirm some info about when the ~TOP CHEF~ contestants
are going to be announced for Season Four—Chicago, and whoa,
what have we here? A blog
with pics of some contestants on a challenge while
at Whole Foods! Now, I already have a hunch about some of the SF
contestants who might be on the show (it’s funny how some mysteriously disappeared
for a few weeks), but the proof sure is in the cock’s comb
on this one. Next week I’ll be able to officially name names
since the press release comes out later this week, but let’s
just say I sure am glad we’ve got a super-talented SOMA badass
in the competition. Those of you who are good with faces (and hair),
have fun. Man, one of my favorite Cali cuisine outposts is going
to get even more press, good for them. More next week! Go SF!
Big drama on Telegraph Hill: ~JULIUS’ CASTLE~ is
closed—they
served their last meal Saturday night. the operators are engaged
in a lawsuit with their landlord, who took over from the former
owner, Jeffrey Pollack, who had the restaurant for 26 years,
until 2006. Now we’ll have to see
how the allegations of fraud, misrepresentation, and lease issues
shake out in the Superior Court. 1541 Montgomery St. at Union,
415-392-2222.
Ladies
and gentlemen, start your engines. This Wednesday marks the opening
of ~BLUE BOTTLE CAFÉ~ in Mint Plaza! (It is incidentally
the three-year anniversary of the kiosk on Linden!) I took a
peek at the menus, and it looks like mornings will have creamy
polenta with speck and Gruyere (or maple syrup and butter!),
an egg and potato torte, and a wicked variety of poached eggs
(hello, with pancetta, or morels, or with béarnaise-glazed
artichoke hearts and tomato sauce, yum!). Evenings will bring cured
hams, salami, chorizo and other charcuterie, olives, cheeses, and
additional wickedness in the form of pancetta soufflés,
porcini flan, or gnocchi with a wild nettle and pine nut pesto
sauce, along with some salads. And yes, all the ingredients are
local, organic, and sustainable, natch.
There
will also be six wines by the glass chosen by Coi’s
Paul Einbund, three white and three red (including a bubbly, and
a Madeira, Paul’s favorite).
As owner James Freeman put it, you’ll be able to get a wonderful
glass of wine for just $5. All right! There will be 23 seats total,
with 12 at the communal hickory table and stools, plus a low table,
and room for ten standing at some bar space. You can geek out and
check out some pics of the space on their Flickr page here.
Blue Bottle will open at 8am this Wednesday, but moving forward,
the hours are Mon–Fri 7am–7pm, Sat 8am–8pm, and
Sun 8am–4pm. 66 Mint St. at Jessie.
~SOLUNA
CAFÉ AND LOUNGE’S~ former
owner, Rick Nyman, has sold the business to new owners after running
the show for 2 ½ years (he’s going to be moving to
Chicago). Meanwhile, the new owners are reportedly involved with
Biscuits and Blues and First Crush, and I heard the new name will
be Civic. I’ll be able to confirm and report more details
as they come in. 272 McAllister St. at Larkin, 415-621-2200.
Executive
chef Jeremy’s Bearman’s last day at ~LARKCREEKSTEAK~ was
Friday the 18th—the new chef is John Ledbetter, who was
Jeremy's sous chef. Ledbetter has been in the industry for about
eight years now, previously at Restaurant August and Emeril’s
in New Orleans for three years. Prior to that, he was in New York
for three years, where he was a tournant at Union Square Cafe and
also helped open Spigolo as sous chef in 2004. He joined LarkCreekSteak
in August. Rock on, Ledbetter. Westfield Centre, 845 Market St.,
4th Floor/Suite 402 at 5th St., 415-593-4100.
I’ve
been following the posts about ~BOILING CRAWFISH~ on
Chowhound,
and must admit my curiosity is piqued. This place just opened last
week in the Outer Sunset in the former Ha’s space (not to
be confused with Ho’s, or ha ha)—they also have locations
in San Jose and Sacramento. Reportedly crawfish is flown in every
other day from Louisiana. You can eat the crawfish with corn and
sausage, and there are also shrimp, clams, crab, and oysters on
the menu. Open daily 3pm–10pm. 2333 Irving St at 24th Ave.,
415-665-6033.
And then in the Outer Richmond there is ~PAGAN~,
a new hippie organic café. Kidding. It’s actually
a 48-seat place with a dual Thai and Burmese menu that moved into
the former Sarin space. According to some posts on
Yelp, the new look is “cozy” and “glowing.” A
Yelper also conveniently explains the name, a region in northern
Burma/Myanmar now known as Bagan. Open Wed–Mon (closed Tue),
11am–3:30pm, and then 5pm–10pm. 3199 Clement St. at
33rd Ave., 415-751-2598.
Chowhounds
also have the
word that after 11 years of business, Firecracker
in the Mission has closed. The first San Francisco location
of ~UDUPI
PALACE~,
the South Indian vegetarian place people adore in Berkeley, Fremont,
and Sunnyvale, will be opening around the end of February or so.
I don’t quite understand why they had to go and open near
the lovely Dosa, when they had the entire city to choose from,
but that’s the irony of the Mission restaurant scene for
you. 1007 1/2 Valencia St.
Got
a few more details on ~LUCE~,
the restaurant opening in the InterContinental San Francisco in
the end of February or so. I read that Bar 888 will have specialty
grappa-based drinks created by master mixologist Francesco Lafranconi!
And some menu items mentioned in the press release include a trio
of mini sandwiches at the bar, plus flatbread with tomato confit,
olives, arugula, salami, and pecorino, and a white bean soup with
parsley oil and avocado. Lunch will include a lobster BLT sandwich
with tomato confit, spicy mayonnaise, and applewood-smoked bacon,
and a quinoa risotto with beets, aged goat cheese, and curry
oil. Some dinner items on the six-course tasting menu include
pappardelle with red snapper, saffron endive nage, and olio verde,
and aged beef tenderloin with wild cress, California Camembert,
and calvados. There will also be a four-course “farm to
table” tasting
menu. 888 Howard St. at Fifth.
I
had a chance to chat with ~DANIEL
PATTERSON~ of Coi
before he headed off to Spain to MadridFusion,
the big four-day conference most chefs dream of attending. He’s
the only chef from the U.S. presenting this year. Patterson is
going to do a cooking demo of two dishes and talk about the traditions
and practical usage of essential oils. He’s
really excited, this being his first trip to España. Can’t
wait to see what he discovers—he said he’s going to
be hitting both some traditional and modern restaurants while he’s
there.
SF is soon to get its first winery in a national park: ~FOGGY
BRIDGE~ is opening in the Presidio. According to the
press release, there will be a tasting room, a working winery,
a casual café, and a 120-seat restaurant. First the tasting
rooms will open this summer in a former Army machine shop, and
will offer educational seminars, food and wine pairings, and
a traditional tasting bar. The second phase will wrap up this
fall, and will be part of a former aircraft hangar dating back
to 1921, all 20,000 square feet of it, which will be restored
and include a concrete tasting bar with a floating translucent
glass top lit from below. Roland Passot’s Left Bank Brasserie
is behind the casual café opening in the summer, and the
flagship San Francisco brasserie will open in conjunction with
the winery’s second phase, in late 2008.
Look for a warm industrial feel, with exposed steel beam supports,
natural wooden walls, and wood cabinetry inside that is reminiscent
of the military barracks of the World War I era. Howard Backen
of Backen Gillam Architects is
the designer (they also did Kokkari, Cyrus, and wineries like Harlan,
Sterling, and Cliff Lede). It gets better: in addition
to the winery, Foggy Bridge will also operate food and wine bay
cruises aboard the historic USS Potomac, which was FDR’s
presidential yacht and was also owned by Elvis Presley. Does this
mean they will serve fried peanut butter, bacon, and banana sandwiches? ‘Cilla!
Foggy Bridge Wine Cruises will sail April through November of 2008.
As
for the players: Daryl Groom is a principal and winemaker at
Foggy Bridge Winery (he was formerly senior vice president at
Beam Wine Estates, executive winemaker at Geyser Peak Winery,
and senior winemaker at Penfolds in Australia). They are adopting
organic farming practices in the San Francisco Bay vineyard,
producing a range of wines from grapes that will be crushed,
fermented, and bottled at its Presidio winery. There will also
be a cab from Napa Valley and a sauvignon blanc from Sonoma;
Foggy Bridge will announce its partner wineries in spring of
2008. Foggy Bridge’s founder
and principal is John Kontrabecki, CEO of TKG International. Northwest
corner of Crissy Field at Presidio Buildings 935 and 937, Old Mason
Street.
Want
a sneak peek at ~EPIC~ or ~WATERBAR~ before
they officially open to the public next week? Well, if you have
some ducats, there are two charity dinners this Friday, 1/25,
with the bulk of ticket sales, if not all, going to support each
charity. There are only 100 tickets per each restaurant, and
the chefs are chomping at the bit to start cooking for people,
so you know they will be pulling out all the stops on these menus.
Tickets are $500 each for either event. Cocktails are at 6pm;
the four-course dinner with wine starts at 7pm. Waterbar’s
event will benefit KIPP, the Knowledge
Is Power Program; please call 415-284-9922. EPIC Roasthouse’s
event benefits the 49ers
Foundation;
call 415-369-9955 for tickets.
You
can also live large at a tasting of big reds from magnums at ~OTTIMISTA
ENOTECA-CAFÉ~ this Thursday from
6pm–7:30pm. The tasting is $35, and includes
small bites. Check out the listing of what will be poured on their site.
If you can’t make it at 6pm, come by Ottimista anytime that
night to taste the wines—they're offering special flights
all evening. 1838 Union St. at Octavia, 415-674-8400.
Yo
home chefs, here’s a fun little competition for you! ~PARTIES
THAT COOK~ has
announced the first “Virtual Cook Off 2008: What’s
your best appetizer recipe?” contest. Send your most original appetizer
recipe with a photo to cookoff@partiesthatcook.com by
March 1, 2008. Include your name, contact info, and a couple
of lines about why your dish should win. Entries will be judged
on originality, taste, and presentation. Your recipe should be
mind-blowingly delicious and possible to prepare in an hour or
less. One entry per person, please. They will eat their way through
the entries and announce a winner on March 31. The first-prize
winner will receive a private
cooking party for 16,
courtesy of Parties That Cook (a $1200 value). Runners up will
win tickets to their Gourmet Dating events or the Sumptuous
Small Plates recipe card deck.
The winning recipes will be inducted into the culinary hall of
fame on the Parties That Cook blog, and have the chance to become
the next hit dish at their Parties That Cook events. Get cookin’!
On a much more serious note, I am sad to share the tragic news
about ~DAVID GOGOLAK~, 36, of Hobson's Choice
Bar and the co-founder of Asqew Grill, who was
killed in an avalanche on January 13 while skiing in Whitefish,
Montana. Here’s a link to the article in USA Today and
here’s more from a release I received:
David
was an entrepreneur as well as a family man, respected by business
associates and much loved by his employees and partners. After
graduating from the School of Hotel Administration at Cornell
University in 1997, Dave, along with friend Mark Nicandri, opened
the first Asqew Grill in San Francisco’s Haight district
in May 1999.
“The memories, the laughter, the love, the gratitude, the respect and
the adoration for David will fill each heart and each restaurant — now
and in the future.” said Michael O’Keefe, president and chief operating
officer of Asqew Grill.
In mid-2007, Dave realized a second life-long dream by moving to
Whitefish, where he could pursue his outdoor passions, including
hiking, boating, swimming and skiing. During the week, Dave remained
committed to both personal and professional dreams by commuting
between Whitefish and San Francisco.
Asqew Grill was the result of David’s vision to create restaurants
in which everyday people could enjoy solid food and drink at reasonable
prices with superior service — establishments that became
a part of the fabric of their neighborhood. One can see the
realization of these efforts in the eight Asqew Grill locations.
David’s dream will continue to thrive as the multi-unit operation
opens its ninth location this spring in Mill Valley, Calif, the
town in which Mark and until recently, Dave, both lived with their
families.
David's zest for life was widely recognized and exuded through
his outdoor pursuits, his passion for culinary creations and most
of all, his love of people. He is widely regarded as a person larger
than life, someone who had a kind word for everyone, a boundless
sense of humor and a deep devotion to his family and friends.
David is survived by his wife, Nicole, their two children, Graylin
and Johnny; David’s parents, Peter and Kathy; and his brother,
Tommy, of Darien, Conn.
Donations in David’s honor may be made to two non-profit
organizations close to David and Nicole’s hearts:
Flathead Nordic Ski Patrol
P.O. Box 433
Whitefish, Montana 59937
Montana Land Reliance
324 Fuller Avenue
PO Box 355
Helena, Montana 59624-0355
The Cottage in Daren, Inc.
C/O Kelly Associates
Attn: Doug Milne
780 Post Road
Darien, CT 06820
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