the chatterbox
the word on the street
the regular
it's about time we met
the wino
in vino veritas
the socialite
shindigs/feasts/festivals
the bookworm
another place for your nose
the starlet
no photos please
the matchmaker
let's get it on

the sponsor
this round is on me

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Buon giorno! I'm looking forward to seeing who my fellow diners will be at this Wednesday's tablehopper supper at Aziza! It ends up we have a few seats available, so if you have nothing going tomorrow night and feel like feastin' with some fellow food phreeks, come and join us! Mmmm, perfect weather for beef stew and root veggie couscous.

This week we have the return of the wino, and so while we're on wine, I was wondering if you were aware of this groovy tool, the wine matcher, from wine writer Natalie MacLean. It's helpful when you aren't dating or living with a sommelier, and you're trying to figure out what will go with the wine you have, or what to pair with dinner. Have fun.

Well, I can't talk about wine without mentioning some cheese! My friends and I practically curled up with a wheel of the new Truffle Tremor from Cypress Grove this Sunday over brunch, it's wicked wicked stuff. It's like zombie cheese: Must. Have. More. Goat cheese and truffles, you do the math.

But since I'm not the only one who should be having all the cheese-fueled fun, I'm doing a giveaway this week of three copies of this spiffy new book, “Laura Werlin's Cheese Essentials: An Insiders Guide to Buying and Serving Cheese.” She breaks down all the styles so you can get your pride back while mulling over the multitude of formaggi at the cheese counter, and there are some good recipes, too.

To enter the drawing, one, you have to be a tablehopper subscriber, and two, you have to forward this week's newsletter to just two people (or send it to thousands, go wild) in order to be eligible to win. Just cc luckyme@tablehopper.com when you forward the newsletter to your peeps (it's best if you explain why you're sending it to them). I promise I won't be collecting your friends' emails, those will stay private—I just need to keep track of how many folks you forwarded it to.

The deadline to enter is by midnight, this Sunday, February 3. I will be randomly drawing the winners and will email you to let you know you've won next week. Good luck! And if you don't win a book, you have two weeks to get it for 20% off from Green Apple Books!

~Marcia

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO

Since we're talking Italian, I thought you may want to know ~A16's~ four-year anniversary actually falls on Valentine's Day. They are offering a four-course menu ($95) with wine pairings ($55), so if you feel like celebrating with one of the city's favorite restaurants over some veal meatballs, you know where to go. 2355 Chestnut St. at Scott, 415-771-2216.
 
More paisano news: I'm happy to report an Italian buddy (and fellow Calabrese) will be opening his restaurant, ~POESIA—OSTERIA ITALIANA~. Francesco D'Ippolito (most recently part of the opening team at È Tutto Qua) is taking over the Ararat Mediterranean location in the Castro on February 16. After a freshening up of the 49-seat space, Poesia should be opening in the beginning of March. (It's in one of those upstairs 18th Street restaurant spaces.) The chef is Italian import Ulisse Guastone (of course the chef's name had to be Ulysses, of course), who will be working closely with local Gregory Leon, who has worked at a variety of places around town, like Kelly's Mission Rock and Tapeo. The menu will be full of mostly Calabrese and other Southern-influenced dishes, but the food isn't totally limited to the south of Italy—there's reportedly a fantastic risotto that will be available too. The menu will be tight, and changing every few days depending on what's fresh at the markets. Dishes will be affordable, ranging from $11–$12 for pastas, and mains below $20. The well-chosen wine list will be about 80% Italian, and there is also a cocktail list that will feature a variety of Italian cocktails and spirits. Un bar Italiano! The petite bar has room for eight. Well, actually, seven, because I will be sitting in one of the seats, sorry. Dinner will be served nightly from 5:30pm–11pm, and even later on Fri–Sat, with brunch on the weekends. Look for a poet's corner with some couches and a coffee table for canoodling over bruschetta and vino, plus a bookshelf of poetry if you are so inclined to read to your sweetie (or yourself). 4072 18th St. at Castro.

The town has been buzzing for weeks over the impending sale of ~MYTH~ and the adjoining Myth Café. Nothing is final yet, so I've opted to step back from reporting much on it since anything I would say is just speculation. Once the deal is done, I'll report back with the plans of the potentially new Ron Siegel/Stephane Lacroix/Carl Pascarella team. The two things we do know, however, is executive chef Sean O'Brien's last day is Thursday; Nathan Foot, who has been working with Sean and doing a great job, will assume the reins until the new owners take over. I ran into Sean and his wife Pat at the crazy Kuleto-fest (i.e. opening parties for Waterbar and EPIC) on Sunday—Sean is optimistic about his options and said he'll have some news to share soon. The second thing we know is wine director Alex Fox will be staying on until the transition is complete, probably until the end of February or so. Tom Duffy created a special and incredibly popular restaurant that was all about showcasing the talents of his rising star staff, and I can imagine how difficult it is for him to say goodbye to it. So, let's stick with “soon” for news on all of this.

One of Duffy's protégés of sorts, Ryan Scott of Myth Café, has been announced as one of the four contestants on the upcoming season of ~TOP CHEF—CHICAGO~, along with Jen Biesty of COCO500, Erik Hopfinger of CIRCA, and Zoi Antonitsas, a consultant who also worked at Bovolo/Zazu, Presidio Social Club, and the former Bizou—yup, seems that Loretta Keller breeds killer talent in her kitchen. You can check out all 16 contestants here. The new season is kicking off on Wednesday, March 12 at 10pm—you know the city will have viewing parties all over the place. Congrats to all four contestants, doing SF proud!

More winning: congrats to all the establishments who won in ~7X7'S EAT AND DRINK AWARDS 2008~. I really hoped to go to the party last night, but guess who was having a late date with her computer and eating noodles while writing this column? Glamorous, I know.

Hey, have a second to vote for bartender/bar manager extraordinaire, ~NEYAH WHITE~ of Nopa? He's the only American finalist in the Bols Cocktail Master 2008 competition! Vote for his drink, the Wing and a Prayer, which has pepper and lavender in it, so Cali. Good luck Neyah! (And you might win a trip to Amsterdam for voting, cool yo.)

Saturday night I had a chance to attend the reception for ~V RESTAURANT~, which biz partners Jefferson McCarley and Emory Etheridge plan on making the greenest restaurant in the world. They will be using all recycled or used materials instead of buying new (even the groovy green dishes and glassware are previously used!), and the vegetarian menu will feature organic/local/sustainable produce, plus they will be using solar power, and green build-out practices. The chef is Stephen Sonke—he currently manages a café at Gap Inc. headquarters and provides direction for the food at all four Gap Inc. cafés. The goal is to open later this year, and they plan to open in the Mission. Right now they are looking for investors, and I gotta say, these kind gents have done their homework and have assembled one heck of a team, so if you're looking for some investment opportunities, I'd check out their project. Saturday's reception at the Women's Building had some bites from chef Sonke, organic and biodynamic wines from Quivira, and the current Miss Trannyshack, Pollo del Mar, unveiled the sign. Here's hoping we see it lit up soon. (Here I am with Pollo and Jefferson, making me look like I am barely five feet tall!)

Vegans and vegetarians will be bummed to hear veggie goldmine ~MEKONG RESTAURANT~ in the TL has closed according to a post on Chowhound. But dry those tears. The new place, Bang San Thai Cuisine, which already has a location in the area (at 505 Jones), has taken its place and will be continuing to offer vegan and vegetarian substitutions, plus Halal meat for the carnivores. 791 O'Farrell St. at Larkin, 415-928-2772.

Here's another place where you'll be able to Thai one on: a third location of ~THAI HOUSE EXPRESS~ (one of my fave Thai places) is coming to the Mission, their biggest location to date. It will be possibly opening in late May or June, at 530 Valencia at 16th. (Odd factoid: it's the former site of the Deaf Club, a punk venue, waaaaay back in the day.)

~METRO KATHMANDU~ is now open Monday nights, so dinner is a nightly thing 5:30pm–11pm. The happy hour continues from 5:30pm–6:30pm, with all soju drinks, wines by the glass, and beers for 50% off. 311 Divisadero St. at Page, 415-552-0903.

Since we have a bookworm from Pete of Green Apple Books this week, I wanted to bring up this story about ~ANOTHER SCAM~ that's happening—this time bookstores are being targeted! The East Bay Express had the story about this crazy new twist about people impersonating authors who are due to come in for book signings (in this case, Eric Gower of The Breakaway Cook) and trying to work the bookstore for some cash—it seems there was a similar scam at University Press Books in Berkeley too. Pfffft.

The Hotel Nikko San Francisco is opening a nightclub called ~THE RRRAZZ ROOM~ featuring jazz and cabaret acts six nights a week. The 200-seat space is currently under construction (it was formerly a board room) and is slated to open February 12, on the lobby level. There is a full bar, and there will be light food service. Fridays and Saturdays will bring two shows, with “LAST CALL!” starring Terese Genecco & Her Little Big Band running later into the evening (it's supposed to be a great show). Tickets will range from $25–$65 with a two-drink minimum, offering seating on the main floor at small cocktail tables, and at a few levels of banquettes. Shows are kicking off with Paula West. 222 Mason St. at O'Farrell, 415-394-1189.

Ugh. ~SUPER BOWL SUNDAY~. I usually take advantage of this opportunity to grab brunch somewhere normally too popular to get into, or I go shopping. (I know I'm in the minority here.) For those of you fired up for the game, a couple options include the “Club Level” at ~ENRICO'S SIDEWALK CAFE~, which will be furnished with couches, inside and out. You'll be able to have some Level vodka drinks (they're sponsoring the event) and eats from chef Seamus Cronin while viewing the game on several big screens. Doors open at 11:30am; the party continues after the game with live music. Guests can reserve sections of Enrico's for their own personal party within a party, and their own couches for groups of 6–20 people. There is a minimum charge of $250 for drinks and food for the first six people, but no additional minimum or cover charges. 504 Broadway at Kearny, RSVP: 415-982-6223.

Those of you hosting your own party, ~LUNA PARK~ will be offering a special delivery service with a "Tailgate Platter," perfect for city-dwellers living without a grill. Dishes offered include Niman Ranch BBQ chicken and ribs, coleslaw, French fries, beans, and mashed potatoes, and will be available from 2pm until the end of the game. Cost is $29.99 for two people and $49.99 for four people. Guests can order online or over the phone. Oh, you might need the number, won't you? It's 415-553-8584.

Lastly, this is gonna sell out quick, so get on it if you're interested! ~HENDRICKS GIN AND ABSINTHE~ are hosting a special four-course cocktail dinner by executive chef Jamie Lauren, paired with cocktails developed by Jeff Hollinger, author of The Art of the Bar. The dinner is February 13, and is $85. To reserve your place, RSVP with Absinthe Private Dining at 415-551-1453 or email jhollinger@absinthe.com.

Got a hot tip? You know I'd love it (and you). Just reply to this email!

Maverick
3316 17th St.
Cross: Mission St.
San Francisco, CA 94110

415-863-3061
website

Dinner:
Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10pm
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm
Sun 5pm–9pm

Brunch:
Sat–Sun 10:30am–3pm

Apps $7–$12
Entrées $16–$24
Desserts $7

Now, the Americana cuisine at ~MAVERICK~ isn't just for dudes, but it definitely has a male POV—it's hearty, zesty, and maybe not the best food to eat every day if you want to watch your figure, but you sure are glad it's around when you need something substantial. It also has little missteps here and there, kind of like a bumbling dude, but is still nice and charming enough to keep getting more dances or dates from you.

Let's warm up with some smooth carrot and leek soup, shall we? Mmmm, I am feeling better already. Smells sweet, like honey. Butternut squash fritters, anyone? Dang, a touch mushy/oily, but I really liked the cumin and coriander yogurt sauce and the bed of mizuna topped with crunchy pumpkin seeds, total winning flavors. Speaking of flava, you can also start with barbecue meatballs, a combo of beef, veal, and lamb, kickin' it in a smoky spicy chili BBQ sauce that the kitchen also uses on ribs. I wasn't sure what to do with the toasted slices of baguette, but I liked the drizzle of crème fraîche with the sauce.

There's really not much to dislike about a slightly warm and wilted chicory salad, is there? Especially when it's topped with a poached egg, a shaving of sheep's milk cheese, and house-cured pancetta. OK, so, not all the apps are bad for you—there are a couple other salads that are slightly healthier, and vegetarian-friendly to boot. Too bad I don't usually have the willpower to order such things.

Maverick is a cozy little spot, so the menu follows suit, with six mains. I had never had lamb steak, and I don't think they're serving it anymore, which is a cryin' shame because this cut was amazing (it was grilled round bone steak, from the shoulder). Extra wicked with maitre d' butter melting over the top. And a side of buttery and crispy-topped celery root and white turnip gratin for good measure. Dude.

People love the fried chicken here, with a spicy-sweet-peppery crust of cinnamon, paprika, chili, and oregano. It's a good juicy bird (buttermilk-soaked Mary's free-range chicken, to be exact), and I was way into the collard greens made with less vinegar than elsewhere, yum. Plus it all comes with grits and andouille sausage gravy. Uh huh.

Other mains one night included grilled mackerel, pork tenderloin confit, braised veal shoulder, handkerchief pasta in cauliflower cream sauce… yeah, maybe you should walk here, and home too. You live in the Marina? Fabulous, you can burn off that side of mac and cheese hoofing it home over the hill.

Dessert is all about comfort classics, or post-breakup indulgence favorites, like warm milk and cookies (all $7), or chocolate bread pudding with a fleur de sel caramel sauce (they could sell this sauce and make lots and lots of money).

Folks go nutso for the weekend brunch—it's a cult classic in the neighborhood. There are migas for those of you who lament you can't find them anywhere, duck confit hash, and all kinds of evil and delicious things to motivate you to get out of bed.

Owners Scott Youkilis (executive chef) and Mike Pierce (GM/wine director) previously worked together at Sociale, which is why your wine glass will be primed a little before it's served to you (it's a Sociale thing). The list rotates often and is full of little quirks (love the Blanc de Blanc Gruet from New Mexico), but mostly features wines from California. Don't miss Mondays, when the wine is 40% off. All of them. Every Monday.

Scott and Mike work really hard, and they're super nice—they've created a great community of regulars here. I have a lot of respect for how committed they are to their restaurant: they use quality ingredients, they are close with their customers, I am impressed with how their website is always up to date, and they even write a newsletter. They also just launched a new quarterly magazine called Out of the Kitchen with stories and recipes—you can pick it up at the restaurant. Oh, and Scott makes Youk's Hot Sauce which I reach for weekly to put on my eggs, soup, and cereal. Oops, that last one was a mistake.

The space is small, with a communal table that's good for a group in the front room, and then there's the low-lit main room, outfitted in deep wood, with cheerful walls the color of pumpkin. I am always happy to see my friend Trey's light-up stereo boxes glowing on the walls, including the ad hoc map of the US. You'll note thoughtful little details, like hooks under the table for your purse, and you'll be brought an amuse bouche once you sit down. You'll also discover how the enormous plates and heavy water glasses tend to take over the small two-top tables, kind of like a big guy on a bus taking up a bit too much room.

Since it's right off Mission Street, you might get a bit of “local flavor” outside, but you also get a mostly hip Mission crowd inside. Maverick is an ideal spot for a first date with someone because it's not too quiet or romantic, but lively enough to be fun; the food isn't intimidating or pretentious, and you can order a full spread and still get out for $100. And if you come here for date number three, you can come back for brunch the next morning, ha ha, you dirty dog.

"Forget the chocolates, Superhero necklaces are good enough to eat. They've gained a cult following in the Bay Area where girls at parties strike up conversations when they see a fellow superhero. Each candy-colored piece is unique, and they're all handmade by San Francisco jewelry designer Andrea Scher.

A while ago, Andrea noticed that she was hoarding her favorite, most rare, vintage pink and red beads. She decided it was time to set the beads free, and this Passion necklace was the result. All the Superhero jewelry comes beautifully wrapped with a card that grants your sweetie superhero powers."
—Maggie Mason, MightyGoods.com

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Mark Bright's career began at the ripe age of 17, where he trained under the master sommeliers at Aqua at the Bellagio. After becoming a sommelier at age 21, Bright moved onto work with Rajat Parr at Restaurant Michael Mina in San Francisco. In 2007, Bright, along with his partners, opened Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant, where he heads up the wine program and the attached retail wine store.

In today's fast moving wine industry, everyone is always in search of new vineyards and new winemaking techniques. In California alone there are hundreds of new vineyard designations and multiple new labels appearing every year. As a sommelier, I have always been searching for these new wines, which I think is one of the best parts of my profession. I have been searching from the wine regions of California to the southern hemisphere for new wines, but it wasn't until my recent trips to Asia that my eyes were opened to probably the most exciting upcoming regions that will surely surprise the market in the 21st century.

There are now over 700 winery projects throughout Asia in over 12 different countries, mostly supported by large companies from Italy, France, and the United States. The leader of the pack in growth currently is China, with more than half of the wineries registered and growing by leaps and bounds in the recent years. China is now the sixth largest producer of wine in the world, with little signs of slowing down.

The majority of these wines are coming from the northern regions of China, surrounding Beijing and up to the border of Mongolia. One of the projects that has their wines in the United States is China Silk Winery, which now has white and red blends, but don't miss their riesling—a great wine with lots of acidity and hints of residual sugar, perfect with sushi and beyond.

Japan is another country that is creating a great wine marketplace, easily the leader in the quality sector. Famous Bordeaux professor Denis Dubourdieu is now consulting on multiple projects, including the Grace Winery Koshu. Koshu is a grape that was brought through Asia into Japan roughly 1,200 years ago—it has since adapted to the climate, and now produces their most distinct and best wines. The production of this grape began roughly 120 years ago, and is a late ripening varietal allowing for beautiful acidity and clean, crisp wines. A beautiful aperitif, and of course it's delicious with sushi. But it goes beyond just Japanese cuisine—it also pairs well with charcuterie and salads.

India is the other large country firmly holding its parcel of the Asian wine growth. Sula Vineyards was created by Rajeev Samant, who used to work in Silicon Valley before moving back home to create the finest winery in India, and it's growing fast—selling more than two million bottles last year alone. These wines can be found in many establishments in the Bay Area. I would suggest trying the chenin blanc, which is the best of their portfolio, with improvements to the sauvignon blancs and reds rising every year.

The Indian government is also fueling the fire by raising taxes on imported wines to nearly 400% at final sale, while giving major long-term tax breaks on new wine projects (especially in Maharashtra).

Although these are the three countries leading the pack, there are many other countries now finding their place in the wine industry, such as Thailand. Although the wines are not hitting the highest marks of finesse, they are delicious for BBQs and fun tastings. Producers in Thailand are also beginning to experiment with other varietals such as tempranillo (think Rioja) and colombard. The quality throughout Asia is improving with every vintage, and many of wines are absolutely fantastic to drink now—and definitely to share with your wine snob friends to open their minds!

Mardi Gras
Tue., Feb. 5, 2008

Town Hall
342 Howard St.
Cross: Fremont St.
San Francisco, CA 94105

415-908-3900
(reservations required )

website

5pm–midnight

$75 per person

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Let the good times roll at Town Hall's annual ~MARDI GRAS~ extravaganza. There will be all kinds of good things to drink, like $5 hurricanes, Abita beer, wine, caipirinhas, and tons of Nawlins fare to eat, like fried chicken, jambalaya, gumbo, etouffée, Louisiana and California oysters, and fresh crawfish. And an enormous King Cake. Live music will be provided by the D'Amphibians (flown out for the event) and live samba dancers. There will be all kinds of beads, feather boas, masks, and it wouldn't be San Francisco without a live face painter in the mix.

The event will benefit Alice Waters' Edible Schoolyard Project in New Orleans.

Tet/Lunar New Year
Fri., Feb. 8, 2008

Bong Su
311 Third St.
Cross: Folsom St.
San Francisco, CA 94107

415-536-5800
website

5pm–10pm

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO The ~VIETNAMESE TET CELEBRATION~ of the Lunar New Year, the year of the Rat, will begin with firecrackers to ward off the evil spirits and to welcome the entrance of the dragon (dragon show at 7pm). Guests can feed the dragon red envelopes for good luck, ask the fortuneteller about the year ahead, and dine on signature good luck dishes made with ingredients said to bring happiness, wealth, prosperity, longevity, and health, like lobster spring rolls, chrysanthemum soup, and slow cooked pork; the regular menu will also be available.

More about Tet, the Vietnamese New Year: 2008—Year of the Rat
 
“Tet Nguyen Dan, commonly known as Tet, is the Vietnamese New Year and the most popular festival in Vietnam. Derived from the Han Nom characters, it means “The Feast of the First Morning.” Families gather and give offerings to the ancestors in celebration of this exciting holiday. Vietnamese people kick-off the celebrations by serving succulent and delicious foods such as Bahn Chung, a sticky rice with meat or bean fillings stuffed in banana leaves, Hat Dura, roasted watermelon seeds, Cu Kleu, pickled vegetables, Mut, sweetened coconut (a Tet special) as well as Cau Dura Xoai which are fruits such as coconut, papaya, and mango. These popular fruits are also used for ancestral offerings at the family altar.

On this holiday, many traditional greetings and well wishes for luck, prosperity, and health are often exchanged such as “Chuc Mung Nam Moi” and “Cung chuc tan xuan” which means “Happy New Year” and are usually followed by “Song lau tram tuoi (live up to 100 years), “Suc Khoe doi dao” (plenty of health), to name just a few.”

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO By Pete Mulvihill of Green Apple Books

Don't forget: these books below are available at 20% off for tablehopper readers for two weeks following this mention at Green Apple Books—simply use the code "tablehopper" at checkout (either at the store or online) for your discount.

Roast Chicken and Other Stories by Simon Hopkinson was released last September. We ordered a copy blindly (it looked pretty), and there it languished on our shelves untouched until early December. Then, in a New York Times round-up of the best cookbooks of 2007, Dwight Garner lauded this book so profusely and convincingly that our copy sold before I could even check it out. 

We saw the review and promptly ordered 20 more copies, thinking it might be a big Christmas book for us. But the publishers and distributors were all wiped out. So I (and countless others) waited until a new printing arrived last week to get our hands on this gem of a food book.

The review says it more eloquently than I can, so check it out here. To tempt you, here are some key phrases that may make you want this book as badly as I did:

* “the most useful cookbook of all time,”
* “a no-nonsense manifesto about eating”
* “Hopkinson is all about pleasing—he will not do fandangos at an ingredient's expense”
* “Imagine an entire book with four to five simple and extraordinary ways to prepare most of the foods you come in contact with on a regular basis, and you'll have imagined this nearly flawless book.”

Perhaps you won't use the brains or liver chapters too often (perhaps you will—what do I know?), but this is a unique, charming, handsome, and affordable little tome. The kind of cookbook you can read in bed, not just refer to in the kitchen. I think you'll enjoy it as I much as I enjoyed the Brandade de Morue I made from it over the weekend. Mmmm, creamy goodness.

Thanks for reading.

JANUARY 29, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Nicholas Cage and a female diner (his wife?) were spotted at Zuni Sunday night dining on the classics: some oysters, a chicory salad, and the roasted chicken (natch) with some water and a diet Coke for the lady.

Scott Adsit of 30 Rock, HBO's Mr. Show With Bob and David and Curb Your Enthusiasm was spotted having lunch and canoodling with his gal pal at the Grove on Fillmore.

Line Cook/Pantry Position

Part time start, to full time.
 
Piccino, a small neighborhood restaurant, is looking for someone with a passion for Italian inspired food, able to integrate with team and work in open kitchen environment. Opportunity to work directly with most respected farmers & purveyors of the Bay Area, learn and contribute to a menu focused on being seasonal & organic. Must be able to multi-task, show initiative, work cleanly and efficiently.
 
Restaurant experience preferred but willing to train the right person. Compensation based on experience.
 
Hours are reasonable but must be flexible to work lunch / dinner / weekends, as needed. 

Reply by email to: carses@gmail.com  
Piccino's phone number: 414-824-4224