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| table of contents |
This
week's tablehopper: cheap thrills. |
the
chatterbox
the word on the street
fresh meat
new restaurant reviews
the regular
it's about time we met
the wino
in vino veritas
the socialite
shindigs/feasts/festivals
the health nut
take a lap, tablehopper
the starlet
no photos please
the matchmaker
let's get it on
the
sponsor
this round is on me

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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO I
certainly had fun tablehoppin' around town this past week
so I could taste my namesake/100th-issue anniversary cocktails.
A big, honkin' thanks to Alembic, Absinthe, Presidio Social
Club, and Cantina for concocting the swell swill! Those were some
mighty fine dranks, with such clever names. And extra grazie to
those of you who tried 'em with me! I loved seeing such cute
pics of you enjoying them, thanks for sending! Congrats to Christopher
D., who sent a pic of himself sippin' the 100 Tuesdays cocktail
at Absinthe—he has (appropriately) won a copy of The
Art of the Bar!
Also,
congrats to Cecilia who won the tickets to the Artisan
Cheese Festival that is happening this weekend in Petaluma. Thanks to all of you
who provided suggestions on the reviews you'd like to see next—look for 'em
in coming weeks!
Sunday
night was the fourth
tablehopper supper at Piccino in Dogpatch—what
a feast! A bollito misto-sized thanks to the kind and talented
crew at Piccino for hosting such an intimate and delicious
dinner (I know where I want to host my next birthday dinner
party!), and to Donnafugata/Folio for providing stunning
wines (the Ben Ryé was a big hit over dessert,
no surprise there). Check out our group's list
of favorite restaurants—this
time we each picked our favorite "high" and "low" places.
The next supper will probably be in May, after everyone's
tax woes subside. Ack.
Since
many will be suffering from diminishing funds in April, this
week I'm doing a roundup of three cheap
eats places around town, including two that will give you yet another
reason to visit the Dogpatch neighborhood for vittles.
Next
Monday, I'm breaking my "no leaving the house
on Monday night rule" yet again, this time to be one of the
judges at the Battle
of the Chefs
event at Macy's. The competition is between two of the City's
best Marks: chef Mark Sullivan of Spruce,
and Mark Denham at Laïola.
Unfortunately all the tickets for this event are sold out, but
the next battle's tickets go on sale March 24; the competition
will be between Ian Begg of Café Majestic and Joel Huff
of Silks.
Oh,
and last week I was interviewed about where I like to eat (and
drink) in SF and more by the swank ladies at Splendora—check
it out here.
Yup,
spring is fast approaching, and if the thought of exposing your
Bingo Wings is freaking you out, you might want to check out
a freebie Fit Camp class with SF Titans—read
all about it in this week's health
nut. Maybe we can
run stairs together.
Cheers
dollinks,
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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Here
are some more details expanding on my January post about the changeover
of Soluna to ~CIVIC RESTAURANT AND BAR~.
The operating partners include René Denis, the former GM
of Biscuits and Blues, along with Ed Ivey and Matt Norris. They
will continue operating under the Soluna name and concept (they
have already made some tweaks to the menu) until mid-April, when
they will close Soluna for four days while they put in new décor
and spruce the place up—a designer from RISD will be overseeing
the new look. When it reopens, Civic's menu will feature
fresh and simple food with local, organic, sustainable ingredients.
Lunch and dinner will be served, with the eventual goal of weekend
lunch and brunch, and open hours seven days a week. Later hours
(until midnight) will be happening, plus live entertainment. They
are working with the City to gain access to the corner lot that
just uselessly sits there with the fence around it (it was an old
powerhouse site), and to convert it into an outdoor patio for guests.
An organic garden will also be going into the lot behind the restaurant—which
means fresh ingredients for the cocktails. 272 McAllister St. at
Larkin, 415-621-2200.
Oh,
and the chef they planned to hire didn't pan out, so
they're currently looking for someone creative with culinary
know-how to lead the restaurant. Get in touch with René at rene@solunasf.com if
you're interested, or know someone who should apply for the
gig.
I'm
sorry to report that it appears the ~FRONT ROOM~ has
closed for good, after 40-plus years of business (Sam Duvall originally
opened it in 1967). After getting squeezed out of its 1500 California
Street home by the [insert whatever adjective/string of descriptors
you want] landlord Luisa Hanson, it moved down the street to the
tinier space at 1550 California last year. The phone is now disconnected—anyone
know how to get in touch with owner Lori Laghaei? Best wishes from
a lot of people in the neighborhood, and beyond. 1550 California
St. at Polk.
Got word that chef ~RYAN
SCOTT OF MYTH CAFÉ~ is
punching the clock for the last time there next Friday, March 14.
Seems the closure of Myth is also imminent around that time, although
nothing remains confirmed. Next week will be a busy one for Scott
since the debut on the new Top Chef premieres on Wednesday, March
12. Ryan is also busy ramping up his new business, Ryan Scott 2Go
(I hope it involves sandwiches).
Fellow
night owls, did you know about ~FARMERBROWN'S~ late
night special? A tablehopper reader tipped me off to this: after
10pm, you can get a plate of fried chicken, with mac-n-cheese,
and greens, plus a cold pint of beer. For $15. Sweet. 25 Mason
St. at Turk/Market, 415-409-FARM.
Burger
news around town: first, ~BURGER
JOINT~ on King Street near the ballpark has finally
opened. I think I mentioned this was in works over a year ago.
Anyway, now you can get your burgers and fries on. Hours are 11am–9pm,
daily. 242 King St. at 3rd, 415-371-1600.
Then
over in Hayes Valley, you'll
find ~DOUBLE DECKER~ in
the old Zoya/Midori Mushi two-story tower at the Days Inn. On the
menu: classic American fare, like Niman Ranch burgers ($5.95, or
$6.95 for a double decker), spicy Buffalo "inferno" wings,
plus homemade chips and fries. And that's about it! Oh, and
there's beer. You can dine upstairs, or downstairs. Open
daily 10:30am–9pm. 465 Grove St. at Gough, 415-552-8042.
I was on a walk and took a peek at the new ~TATAKI
SUSHI & SAKE
BAR~ in the old Subway space (good riddance) on
California at Divisadero. The tiny 25-seat space has kind of
a Zen spa-naturalistic Japanese look. The menu is mostly what
I call California-style sushi (lots of maki). A partner in the
project and the sushi chef is Raymond H*, (I can't type his last
name lest this newsletter end up in everyone's spam filter, egad).
His background includes Hana-Zen, Hamano, and Benihana—with five seats available
at the sushi bar, maybe he will do some groovy tricks for you.
Some namesake tatakis on the menu include beef, albacore, kampachi,
ahi tuna, and artic char. There are also premium sakes available.
Hours are Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10:30pm, Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11:30pm,
closed Sunday. Lunch is coming soon. 2815 California St. at Divisadero,
415-931-1182.
This week's fresh meat review is of ~THICK & THIN
PIZZA~, where they're starting a monthly event
on the first Tuesday of every month called Dining for Drag. BeBe
Sweetbriar (the reining Miss Gay SF and Miss Desperate Diva)
hosts these evenings where she and her drag friends wait tables
and take turns performing in the restaurant—I can only
imagine the scene. 15% of all sales go to a different charity
every month. This month it will benefit BAAITS, an LGBT Native
American Organization. And to celebrate Madonna's recent acceptance
into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, BeBe is dedicating the evening
(and music) to Madge. The next Dining for Drag event is tonight,
March 4, from 7pm–10pm. 3600 16th St. at Market, 415-431-0306.
Do
you have spring fever? I'd wager yes, unless you've
been living in a cave the past two weeks. To get you further into
the spirit, ~MILLENNIUM~ is
hosting a Spring Equinox Menu, full of tender, succulent greens,
baby root veggies, peas, shoots, and other springtime favorites!
It's a four-course prix-fixe menu for $50/person with a $23
optional wine pairing. The menu is available Thu–Sat for
the month of March. 580 Geary St. at Jones, 415-345-3900.
So
back in December I
mentioned ~FOURBARRELCOFFEE~,
the new coffee place opening in The Hub/North Mission from Ritual's
Jeremy Tooker. It's not going to open until April or so,
but in the meantime, you can have a coffee pulled from one the
La Marzocco Mistral machines set up on an espresso cart, from 7am–5pm.
It also looks like there will be more space for seats than originally
anticipated—it's coming out to about 1,000 square feet
of café space, with room for 40 or so total at the tables
and two bars. But remember, no Wi-Fi—it's just a place
to enjoy your coffee. 375 Valencia St. at 15th.
Nearby, a reader tipped me off to a new spot, ~JACKIE'S
VINOTECA & CAFÉ~, opening at Valencia and
McCoppin. Anyone know anything, or anyone? A friend says it's
looking close to finished. Bonus points if anyone has the owner's
contact info! I didn't have time to cruise over and check
it out this weekend—expect an update in next week's
column!
In
the meantime, things are getting closer on the Lower Haight's ~UVA
ENOTECA~ from wine director/GM Boris Nemchenok (of
Batali's Otto in New York and EOS) and executive chef Ben Hetzel
(recently of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton). The menu will
feature an extensive list of antipasti, like semolina gnocchi
with speck; locally crafted meats like bresaola, speck, lamb
prosciutto, and nostrano; cheeses; inventive pizzas and panini
(prosciutto with cherries and burrata, anyone?); and tramezzini
and piadine. Some one-of-a-kind specialty items will also be
available, like a custom cheese, artisan bread, and small-production
gelato. There will be about 80–100 wines from small boutique Italian
wine producers, with most sourced by wine consultant Jim Kennedy
(Delfina, Sociale), and will be served quartino-style (a small
decanter that holds a quarter of a liter). Chef Hetzel's
wife, Camber Lay, (Epic, Laïola, Range, Frisson) will be
consulting on a list of wine-based cocktails utilizing vermouths,
wine-based simple syrups, and sparkling wines. The look is shaping
up to be rustic and clean, with brick walls, dark wood-stained
floors, marble countertops, and subway-style tiled walls, plus
red cedar tabletops. The opening is looking like late March/early
April for now. Hours will be Mon–Fri 5pm–12am, Sat–Sun
for brunch—open from 10am–12am. 568 Haight St. at
Steiner.
More wino news: ~THE PRESS CLUB~,
the 9,000-square-foot tasting room opening up on Yerba Buena
Lane in late April, just announced their two additional and final
wine/vintner members (Fritz Winery and Landmark Vineyards). Other
wineries include Chateau Montelena, Hanna Winery, Miner Family
Vineyards, Mount Eden Vineyards, Pahlmeyer, and Saintsbury. Press
Club will feature daily tastings, gourmet food, educational events,
wine club opportunities, direct shipping, and private tasting
areas for intimate gatherings, plus wine release parties and
winemaker dinners. They also recently hired a GM, George Blanckensee,
whose hospitality background includes the Westin St. Francis,
and Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa. 20 Yerba Buena Lane at Market,
415-494-2000.
Oh, and on Sunday, March 16, ~SOUTH~ is continuing their wine tastings and winemaker dinners with shirazaganza from
4pm–6pm. They'll be pouring 25 different kinds of shiraz,
from Heathcote, to boutique brands like Craiglee and Clonakilla,
plus Barossas from Torbreck and Elderton. Space is limited to 75
people. $35 includes tastes of 25 wines plus some heavy apps to
keep you upright. Last time they sold out quickly, so RSVP early
to events@southfwb.com with
your phone number, and they'll call you for a credit card
to hold your spot. 330 Townsend #101 at Fourth
St., 415-974-5599.
~OTTIMISTA
ENOTECA-CAFÉ~ has launched 2-for-1 Tuesdays!
Every Tuesday in March from 5pm–7pm,
all wines by the glass (of equal or lesser value) are two-for-one.
Salud! 1838 Union St. at Octavia, 415-674-8400.
~THE PAGE~ has reopened after being closed for a short spell while they installed
a new walk-in. Which means colder, and therefore better-tasting
beer. A little taxidermy report: an elk and a bobcat have also
been added. Lastly, they also win for one of the funnier FAQs.
298 Divisadero St. at Page, 415-255-6101.
Starting this coming Sunday, ~ALEMBIC'S~ Thomas Waugh is tending bar until March 12 at one of my favorite
bars in New York, Death & Co. And in return, they are dispatching Phil Ward, their resident cocktail
expert, to work behind the stick with Dan Hyatt. Look out.
Oh,
and in case you missed the Valentine's Day Savoy Cocktail
Night, the Alembic will be rolling it out on the last Tuesday of
every month. Here's more: "The Savoy Cocktail Book
is a famous old cocktail book, one of the first, and it contains
hundreds of great recipes, and a few strange ones, the likes of
which we have been hard at work re-creating behind the scenes.
So you get the book, close your eyes and point, and chances are
we have the stuff to make it for you. Anyway, Round 2 is on Tuesday,
March 25." 1725 Haight St. at Cole, 415-666-0822.
On Monday, March 10, ~RYE~ is
hosting their monthly mixing competition, this time with Bluecoat
Gin! There will be some nibbles by Chuck Fitzgerald and fab deals
on Bluecoat cocktails. The competition kicks off at 7:30pm, but
the cocktailing begins at 5:30pm. If you are a bartender and want
to compete, please contact Greg at greg@rosewoodbar.com. Ten
bartenders total will compete for prizes, including the winner's
USBG dues will be paid for a year! Rye Bar, 688 Geary St. at
Leavenworth, 415-786-7803.
Got
a hot tip? You know I'd love it (and you). Just reply to
this email!  |
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|
Yup,
it's all about location. Where you advertise should be the same.
tablehopper offers prime real estate, buzzing with thousands
of visitors every day. Open 24 hours, seven days a week.
Want
to get your [insert groovy product or place or service here]
in front of thousands of educated, hip, savvy insiders? (After
all, you read tablehopper too.) Tablehopper readers live to
eat, drink, and hit the town, in San Francisco and beyond.
Many are in the industry, both Front of House, and Back of
House. They are in the house.
There are a variety of creative opportunities available. Please
contact Kate Ellison for
a media kit and rates. |
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Thick & Thin
Pizza
3600 16th St.
Cross: Market St.
San Francisco, CA 94114
415-431-0306
Mon–Thu 5:30pm–9:30pm
Fri 5:30pm–10pm
Sat 3pm–10pm
Sun 3pm–9:30pm
Apps
$3–$8
Pizzas $8–$19
Dessert $9
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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Anyone
who knows me knows I am crazee nutz about pizza. This is what
happens when your family owns a pizzeria when you're
a kid. Heck, it was seriously in the family genes—even my
dad's brother had a pizzeria (anyone in the East Bay remember
Frankie G's?)! I'm blessed to have Little
Star Pizza merely a block away from my apartment—then again, that would
be considered unlucky by some. I never even knew I was a deep dish-pizza
lover until trying the namesake Little Star (but I ask them to
go easy on the garlic).
I
have found another lover. And who knew it would be in the Castro?
Heh. The next time I'm in the neighborhood and hangry,
you just might find me happily perched up in ~THICK & THIN
PIZZA~, located in the Lookout, AKA the former Metro Bar
and Restaurant—it's right above the (tragically named)
Squat and Gobble.
Back
in the day, I remember as you'd walk up to the second-story
Metro Bar, there was some serious wafting of Chinese food from
the adjoining restaurant. Then it became Tapeo, and now with the
new bar owners, it's a pizza place, Thick & Thin Pizza.
Now, I wouldn't necessarily drive from the Outer Sunset for
this dining experience, but the pizza is damned good, and a no-contest
winner for killer take-out.
We
started with a hefty winter salad ($7) of fresh spinach, with
dried cranberries, blue cheese, and walnuts, with a good citrusy
vinaigrette. Dressed perfectly. And now, the pizza! Sharon Ardiana
of Gialina consulted on the crust, and dude, it's mighty tasty. With
the large cornicione (lip of the crust), you'll also note
it as a distinct Gialina cousin.
Naturally,
I couldn't resist the charms of the Italian Stallion
($15), a 12" "thin crust" pie topped with sautéed
mushrooms, caramelized mushrooms, Italian sausage (great kick and
nice fennel taste), bacon, pepperoni, and provolone. I know, dude.
It was a mountain of meat. Personally, a few too many toppings
for me—next time I'll go much simpler because I wanted
to taste the spicy sweet sauce, and fab crust. There are four other
kinds of thin-crust pizzas, including quattro formaggi, chicken
pesto, vegetarian, and tomato basil.
I
totally hearted the deep-dish pizza—a 9" pie is enough
to feed three, seriously. We did the Castro Queen ($18), with chicken,
mushrooms, spinach, skim mozzarella, and tomato sauce. The chicken
was juicy, and had a tasty tang from its tequila-lime marinade.
The cheese was totally ooey-gooey, and there was just the right
ratio of sauce to cheese. The cornmeal crust was cooked evenly,
and had lovely flavor and texture. And boy, did this warm up nicely
the next day for lunch. Meow.
There
is also a s'more pizza for dessert, a huge house-made
graham cracker cookie topped with Belgian chocolate and toasted
marshmallows. Such a stoner dessert. Get someone to share it with
(we're talking about the dessert, babe—sorry, but the
doobie is completely up to you), a glass of milk, and you're
all set.
The
space is a little short on ambiance—there are classic
red-and-white-checkered tablecloths, and that's about it.
The bench seating along the wall needs a ledge for your feet, so
go for one of the high-top tables with stools instead (which are
weirdly the old Metro stools with the "M" still on the back—maybe
I should buy them?). Perhaps you'll find a few other people
dining—I don't think enough folks know how good the
pizza is here. Yet.
Or,
if you're craving a cocktail and bar ambiance, just
order your pizza while boozing next door in the Lookout bar. There
are a bunch of other bar snacks you can order that will conveniently
help counteract the hefty pours from the hottie bartenders, like
curly fries, calamari, burgers, and the like. If you live in the
neighborhood, welcome to your new take-out treasure! It's
also open for late lunch on the weekends, at 3pm!  |
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The
New Spot
632 20th St.
Cross: 3rd St.
San Francisco, CA 94107
415-558-0556
Mon–Fri 8am–7pm
Sat 9am–3:30pm
Apps
$3–8.50
Mains $7.25–$9.50
Dessert $2.50–$3.50 |
MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Since
I managed to get some folks to visit Dogpatch for the tablehopper
supper at Piccino,
what the heck, let's give y'all another great reason
to come to the 'hood: the best darned pupusas in the City.
Buckle up, because the pupusas at ~THE NEW SPOT~ are
gonna mess you up. You're going to become a zombie for
them.
They
are downright ethereal. Not greasy, or gluey, or dense. I really
wasn't aware a pupusa could be light, but
they actually melt in your mouth—they're that tender
and delicate. It's a new pupusa paradigm, completely.
I
munched one stuffed with chicharron and queso (pork and cheese/all
$2). The zucchini special I had was also de-lovely. You have
to order a minimum of two per order, but what's difficult
will be ordering a minimum of two, for reals. You're gonna
want them all: just cheese, or beans and cheese, or cheese pork
and beans, or loroco and cheese, or chicken and cheese… plus
there are special pupusas of the day too. Hungry yet?
I want to ask them to make breakfast pupusas. All I can think
about is one with chicharron, cheese, and a fried egg on top.
(I have a sick mind like that.)
They
also come with a sparkling curtido (coleslaw), plus chips and
homemade salsa. Call me a freak, but I love my pupusas with
a side of sour cream, and a few shakes of Cholula—a holdover
from my days of pupusa missions with my buddy Paco in L.A.
To
be honest, I tried this casual little Mexican and Salvadorian
place when it first opened about a year ago, and I wasn't
impressed. Wasn't sure where the flavors were hiding, but
they weren't here. Now they have come back in full force,
yay. Like one day we started with a wonderful albondigas soup
that tasted like something your abuelita would make for you (if
you had one). Mighty good meatballs, man.
There's
an impressive variety of dishes, like panuchos, pasteles, fried
yucca with chicharron, chile rellenos, chimichangas, tortas,
chile verde, enchiladas with mole… the list goes
on. Good stuff, Maynard. Some folks were munching burritos or
tacos, but I say save that for your Mission taquerias, and at
least start with the home-style dishes here first. All are under
$10, and the main dishes come with rice, beans, and salad. I've
also heard some of the drinks are really good, and unusual,
like a chocolate and corn drink I gotta return to try.
The
place is clean, and the folks are friendly. Love the macaw
mural. It's a small joint, so there are only a few tables,
and the lines can be long for lunch take-out, but everyone
must agree it's worth it—and the food even comes
in biodegradable containers, cool! The breakfast options are
also notable, from chilaquiles ($5.95) to huevos rancheros
($5.95) to all kinds of scrambles. Enough to make you remember
why it's the most important meal of the day.  |
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Hard
Knox Café
2526 3rd St.
Cross: 22nd St.
San Francisco, CA 94107
415-648-3770
website
Mon–Sat 11am–9pm
Sun 11am–5pm
Entrées $6–$10
Sandos $5.50–$6.45 |
MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Since this week is like my Dogpatch roundup, I want to mention
one more spot that cracks me up: ~HARD KNOX CAFE~.
The irony is this little soul food joint is run by a Vietnamese
family who lived in Texas; they've been running this cozy
and down-home place for nine years. It looks like a roadhouse,
with corrugated metal siding for the walls, antique signs, a
wood bar and floors, cute red vinyl booths, and some bluesy tunes.
It's almost always busy, with a line out the door, but
it moves pretty quickly.
I've
tried a lot of things on the menu, but the fried chicken ($9)
is where it's at. I think it's some of the better fried chicken
in town, actually—my Southern
pal agreed. You get three pieces (a leg or thigh, a wing, and
a breast), with a light fry but good crunch, and the chicken
is almost sweet it's so juicy. Plus you get two warm corn
muffins, which are probably nuked, but oh well, along with a
soft pat of butter, and you get a choice of two sides (which
are all vegetarian). Yeah, I know, for $9. No, it's not
Fulton Valley Ranch chicken. But it's commendable there's
a place serving hearty portions of some decent comfort food in
this town for under $10.
Of
the sides, I think the potato salad is just perfect, and it's
fun to dig in to some old-school kinda trashy stovetop mac
and cheese that reminds me of being eight and having dinner
at a friend's house (it tasted nothing like my mother's,
who made hers by scratch, a baked version with a little milk,
lots of cheese, and cut-up Polish dogs in it, yum!). Otherwise,
the vegetable sides taste either canned to me, or just weird—like,
I gotta have salt pork in my collards, and the yams were cloyingly
sweet.
The
spicy chicken sandwich ($6.45) is also the shiznit, with grilled
onions, peppers, and a tasty sauce. For me, that's
it—those are my two dishes. I know some folks love the
spare ribs, the oxtails, and the Cajun meatloaf. But for me,
the rest of the menu doesn't really rock me—for some
unfortunate reason, I've had some pretty bland dishes here,
and the vegetables haven't been shown much love. But I
definitely dig the friendly service, the Mason jars for your
lemonade or Arnold Palmer, and the cold (and super affordable)
beer on tap. And the fried chicken. Bwok.  |
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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Mauro
Cirilli on Five Italian Wine and Cheese Pairings
Mauro
Cirilli of Perbacco hails
from Padova, Italy, where he was introduced to the joys
of wine at an early age, when he would visit his grandfather's
vineyard in the Colli Euganei and join in the process of
making wine for their friends and family. Mauro received
his Sommelier Diploma from the prestigious Italian Association
of Sommeliers in Firenze and worked as a sommelier at several
renowned restaurants in Northern Italy. Shortly after moving
to the United States in 2001, he worked as Lead Sommelier
at Aqua. Eager to return to his Northern Italian roots,
Mauro joined the opening team of Perbacco in October 2006.
Five
Italian Wine and Cheese Pairings
If
you are an Italian wine aficionado who enjoys the leftover red
wine from dinner with some cheese, I have a few suggestions to
try the next time you're home with a group of guests.
In
Italy there are more than 600 indigenous grapes, and more than
400 cheeses, so there are a lot of choices to have fun with.
My first suggestion is to forget the old idea that red wine is
the only choice to pair with cheese, and open your mind to try
something new.
It's
always a good idea to follow a regional pairing. You might start
with a light and very fresh cheese made with cow's milk,
like mozzarella di bufala. This type of cheese is simple and
delicate, and you will want to have a wine that enhances these
qualities. Try pairing it with an elegant white wine, such as
falanghina or a fiano di avellino, so not to overpower it. Both
of these white wines and the cheese are from the region of Campania.
Have
a young pecorino sardo (sheep's milk from Sardegna) with
a white vermentino di Gallura (from the same island). This cheese
has a soft and elastic texture with a slightly tangy flavor that
will be a fantastic match with the zesty flavor of this wine.
If
your cheese selection is a cheese made with goat's milk,
like a fresh caprino with its classic pungent texture, consider
a white wine that is lightly aromatic with good acidity, like
a sauvignon blanc. Look for some producers from the northeastern
Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
One
of my favorite Italian cheeses is parmigiano reggiano. Although
you can easily pair this with a good glass of red wine, I like
to pair it with a glass of spumante, the Italian sparkling wine
that is made using the classic method, méthode champenoise. The
stunning acidity and bubbles of this wine help to clean your
mouth from the strong flavor of the cheese. Look for vintage
spumante, which will show more complexity and balance, chosen
from top producers like Ca' del Bosco, Majolini, or Bruno
Giacosa.
One
of the most famous Italian blue cheeses is Gorgonzola. Try to
find Gorgonzola piccante, which has a stronger flavor because
it has been aged longer. With such a flavorful cheese you need
to have a wine of good complexity. I suggest pairing this cheese
with Marsala, especially the Vecchio Samperi Vent'anni
(20 years) from the producer Marco de Bartoli.
Unfortunately,
Marsala has always been a mass-produced wine, with a lot of low
quality available in the market. However, Marco de Bartoli is,
without discussion, the top producer. Marsala is made like sherry,
using the Solera system. This is a long aging process using a
series of barrels over a period of several years, and results
in unique flavors and textures. It shows nutty and caramel aromas
with a light sweetness balanced by a beautiful acidity. This
is just what you need to pair with Gorgonzola piccante.
And
lastly, as I always suggest to my guests at the restaurant, do
not forget to follow a progression, from a milder cheese with
a lighter wine, to a bolder cheese with a fuller wine—this
simple rule can really make a difference in your dining experience.
I
hope that you will find these suggestions helpful for your next
pairing and give you the opportunity to try something new.  |
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Wine
Events at bacar
Wed., Mar. 5, 2008
Sun., Mar. 16, 2008
bacar
448 Brannan St.
Cross: 4th St.
San Francisco, CA 94107
415-593-4100
website
Loosen dinner
Wed., Mar. 5, 2008
6pm
$125, sans tax and tip
Sommelier Supper
Sun., Mar. 16, 2008
7pm
$65, sans tax and tip
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MARCH 4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO bacar has a couple groovy wine events on the calendar. First,
renowned German winemaker ~DR. ERNST LOOSEN~ will
be pouring and discussing his wines for a five-course dinner this
Wednesday, March 5. Guests will have the opportunity to meet with
Dr. Loosen and taste 11 of his beloved wines, including his 2006
Villa Wolf Grauburgunder, and 2006 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich
Riesling Spatlese and 2007 Dr. Loosen & J. Christoper "Two
Worlds" Pinot Noir, over a dinner prepared by executive chef
Robbie Lewis, with dishes such as local petrale sole with bacon-braised
Savoy cabbage; Liberty Farms duck breast with medjool date puree
and glazed turnips; and Berkshire pork tenderloin with porcini
mushrooms, salsify, and creamed nettles.
The Dr. Loosen estate has been in the same family for more than
200 years. Once Ernst Loosen assumed ownership in 1988, he realized
that with un-grafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany's
best-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly
intense, world-class wines. His approach to winemaking combines
contemporary technique with a respect for tradition. This has earned
the estate an overwhelmingly positive response from wine writers
and wine lovers the world over. Most recently, Wine & Spirits awarded
him "Best German Producer" and "Best Producers of
the Past 25 Years" in 2007.
And then, coming up is another ~SOMMELIER SUPPER~ (held
the 3rd Sunday of every month). Wine director Mickey Clevenger
continues bacar's monthly tradition by offering an intimate evening
of food and wine. Capture an inside look into what it takes to
make it on bacar's wine list. Guests will have the opportunity
to preview and sample approximately two dozen wines not yet on
the list in bacar below, and then enjoy a family-style dinner.  |
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Toast
of the Town
Thu., Mar. 27, 2008
War Memorial Opera House
301 Van Ness Ave.
Cross: Grove St.
San Francisco, CA 94102
800-847-5949
website
VIP tasting
5pm–7pm
$185
$155 with the tablehopper discount
Grand Tasting
7pm–10pm
$95
$85 with the tablehopper discount
purchase tickets
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MARCH 4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Wine Enthusiast Magazine will host its second annual ~TOAST
OF THE TOWN~ food, wine and music event at the War Memorial
Opera House. I went last year, and the venue made it really unique.
This event, an annual highlight of the New York City, Chicago,
and now the San Francisco epicurean scene will feature over 70
domestic and international wine producers, plus signature dishes
from 30 Bay Area restaurants. There is also a silent auction,
with donations from the participating wineries and restaurants,
to benefit the San Francisco Food Bank, and live jazz from Loosewig.
Participating restaurants listed on the website include: Ana
Mandara, Bar Tartine, Bistro Jeanty, BIX, Café Gibraltar,
Campton Place, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, Delfina, Étoile
at Domaine Chandon, Go Fish Restaurant, Joe DiMaggio's Italian
Chophouse, Michael Mina, Mustards Grill, Pica Pica Maize Kitchen,
Pizzeria Delfina, PlumpJack Café, Poleng Lounge, Pres a
Vi, Quince, Rivoli Restaurant, Straits Restaurant, Sutro's
at the Cliff House, The Tonga Room Restaurant & Hurricane Bar
and Z. Cioccolato.
Some participating wineries include: Baron
Philippe de Rothschild, Bernardus, Champagne Louis Roederer,
Domaines Ott, Graham's, Masi Agricola, Perrier Jouet, Robert
Mondavi and many more—check out the list here.
tablehopper readers should enter the discount code of
WCAL08, which is good for $10 off the Grand Tasting price, and
$20 off the VIP Tasting price. For both tastings, space
is limited and tickets will be sold on a first-come, first-served
basis.  |
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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Hey
there—have you been curious about joining Titan Fitness's
Fit Camp? I keep lovin' my Tuesday and Thursday workouts,
especially with the increasingly better weather we've been
experiencing. Boot camp this is not—it's a good workout,
with supportive instructors—it's not one of those programs
designed to punish you at 6am, five days a week, making you so
sore that it's difficult to walk or even wash your hair.
Titan is offering a chance for interested folks to drop in on
one of their classes for free, so come check it out and try it!
The free week is going to be Sunday, March 16–Saturday,
March 22.
The schedule is as follows:
Monday, 7am, Dolores Park
Tuesday, 6pm, Kezar Stadium
Wednesday, 7am, Dolores Park
Thursday, 6pm, Kezar Stadium
Just go to www.sftitans.com for
more details and rates, or call Patrick Barresi at 415-235-9589.  |
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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Cybill
Shepherd was
spotted having lunch last Tuesday at Vitrine at The St. Regis
San Francisco (it's the hotel's breakfast
and lunch restaurant on the fourth floor). She dined with Dr.
Ernest Bates, a MOAD board member. She was also spotted Monday
night at COCO500 having dinner with some gal pals, and reportedly
"looked great!"
And
now in the "Stars" Behaving Badly department,
I heard Top Chef's Hung Huynh dined at Nopa
over the weekend—his table sent back what is probably one
of the city's best pork chops, claming it wasn't done
enough (for them), and let's not talk about the 10% tip they
left the server.  |
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MARCH
4, 2008 | SAN FRANCISCO Restaurant manager needed
for Sundance
Kabuki Cinema's
unique dining and drinking concept. Love of independent film
is a plus. The job offers good pay, full health coverage and
two weeks paid vacation.
Please
send your resume to dennis.gray@sundancecinemas.net.  |
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All
content © 2008 Marcia Gagliardi.
I am more than happy if you want to link to my reviews and content
elsewhere (thanks, glad you dig it), but republishing any part of them
in any way, shape or form is strictly prohibited until we talk first.
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