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MAY 12, 2009 | SAN FRANCISCO Well,
I think it's safe to say it's finally happening: opening this Saturday
is the Divisadero location of ~BAR
CRUDO~. (I'd just
call before heading over—things can happen between now and then.)
Owners Tim and Mike Selvera have done a nice job with the space (a
former pizza joint)—there's a comfortable zinc bar with 17 seats,
a variety of tables with Lucite tops, plus small inset marble tables
for folks standing near the bar area. There's a mezzanine in the
back (I guess these guys have a thing for mezzanines) with additional
seating that includes a large group table/booth. There are also some
cool reclaimed light fixtures from Kevin Randolph who has his work
at The
Perish Trust, just
across the street. And like the Bush Street location, there will
be some artwork from the incomparable Kelly
Tunstall in the form
of a mural near the entrance.
Chef Mike
is thrilled with his spacious and new raw
seafood display (its former home was at
Scott Howard) so that means more oysters
for you—there's also a raw bar-appropriate
backsplash of white subway tile. The menu
will feature five new crudos (although
the beloved Arctic char will remain), and
due to the big kitchen, there will be many
more hot dishes, eight in all. For example,
there will be a seafood rice (a cross between
a paella and a risotto) with shrimp, clams,
mussels, and chorizo; whole fish; and head-on
Louisiana white shrimp caught that morning
and flown over and delivered that evening
so they can end up in a diavola (spicy)
tomato vinaigrette. The brothers are
even considering adding dessert. Alex Fox
(Myth, Gary Danko) consulted on the wine
list, which features an array of intriguing
bubbles, fresh whites, and seafood-friendly
reds, and a few producer or style spotlights
in case you feel like exploring his hot
recos. Plus 17 wines by the glass, have
fun. Of course there will be a number of
well-chosen beers, courtesy of Tim. Jacqueline
Patterson (Heaven's Dog) has concocted
five wine-, vermouth-, and beer-based cocktails
and aperitifs that will be available in
two weeks. Hours will be 5pm–11pm nightly
(they're hoping to land later hours when
they're a bit further along). 665 Divisadero
St. at Grove, 415-409-0679.
Meanwhile, ~SWELL~ is
opening tomorrow (Wednesday) in the former
Bar Crudo space on Bush. The partners are
Ludovic Racinet (Tunnel Top) and Stephane
Gioe (Chouquet's), who have hired Paul
Feng, formerly an executive sous at Postrio.
Feng's menu will feature a variety of raw
dishes, from fish to beef to vegetables,
with some special seafood rolls with vegetables,
salad, or tobiko (no rice). The menu is
being described as highlighting a Japanese
cut, with European style. The wine list
is international, and will feature 35 wines
by the glass. They will be renovating a
month or so from now, which will include
a new paint job and lighting. Hours are
Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10:30pm, and Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm.
603 Bush St. at Stockton, 415-956-0396.
A
new Italian place just opened last Friday
in SoMa in the former Vino e Cucina space
called ~LA
BRICIOLA~.
The partners in the project are Gianluca
Toschi, Alessandro Sapienza, Luciano Trentoni,
and Rhiannon Anderson. They were all servers
at Mona Lisa in North Beach, and in this
new arrangement, Gianluca is the chef (he
was trained in Italy). The extensive menu
has two sections: “From the Earth” includes
homemade pastas like spinach-filled ravioli
in a veal ragú, and gnocchi with a pecorino
sauce and walnuts, plus a secondo of vitello
alla valdostana (rolled veal with speck
and Fontina cheese). “From the Ocean” delivers
octopus with warm cannellini beans and
barley in a lemon dressing; sea bass-filled
ravioli in a lobster reduction; and caciucco
di viareggio (fish stew with crab,
calamari, mussels, clams, shrimp, salmon,
and swordfish). You can read the whole
menu on the site—it's
rather extensive. This isn't just a neighborhood
trattoria; the owners wanted to offer a
nicer dining experience that was more on
the level of Perbacco—a true ristorante.
About
the name: briciola (bree-cho-la)
is Italian for breadcrumb, which is what
the Italians said about owner Rhiannon's
Chihuahua, Bartolomeo, when she brought
him to Italy. The 49-seat space has been
redone with sunny yellow and terracotta
colors, plus they redid the iron gate,
and there's a new paint job for the exterior
of the building. Oh, and for those wondering
what happened to the tomato that was out
front, it was sold to the grandson of the
artist who made it—he is in Kansas and
is arranging to have it shipped out there.
Hours are daily 11am–3pm and 5pm–10:30pm.
La Briciola is going to try to stay open
on Sundays for dinner, so be sure to check
it out if you live in the neighborhood.
489 3rd St. at Bryant, 415-512-0300.
More
Italian: opening this Friday for dinner
is ~FLOUR
+ WATER~ in
the Mission. The imported Valoriani oven
from Italy will be firing up thin-crust
Neapolitan pizzas from chef Thomas McNaughton
(La Folie, Gary Danko, Quince)—he'll also
be making house-made pastas and house-cured
meats. Everything on the menu will be $20
and under, like a shaved asparagus and
arugula salad with quail egg and pancetta-caper
vinaigrette; pizza carciofi with artichokes,
new onion, pecorino, capers; pasta alla
chittara with wild mushrooms and peppercress;
and young chicken al mattone with watercress,
potato, and spring onion. Items will change
daily, with approximately six starters,
five pizzas, five pastas, three entrées,
three sides, plus dessert. Partner David
White has crafted a wine list made up exclusively
of Italian varietals ranging from $20–$60.
Designer Sean Quigley (owner of Paxton
Gate) used a variety of refurbished, repurposed,
and reclaimed materials, like a chandelier
of Gemsbuck horns, and a great deal of
the wood for the interior comes from old-growth
redwood wine fermentation tanks. There's
also a mural and two permanent commissions
by San Francisco painter Jessica
Niello.
The majority of seating is for walk-ins,
but some reservations will be available
starting Thursday. Open for dinner this
Friday (5:30pm–midnight), and then brunch
(Sat–Sun 10am–2:30pm) and afternoon service
(daily 2:30pm–5.30pm) begins May 25th.
(Closed Sunday May 17th and Sunday May
24th.) 2401 Harrison St. at
20th St., 415-826-7000.
The
restaurant formerly known as A5 just settled
some legal issues with A16 last week, so
their new name is now officially ~5A5~ (for
the five senses, and the A5 rating of beef).
To remind you, this is the steak lounge
opening in the former Frisson space in
Jackson Square. The grand opening is tonight
(May 12th) with cocktails and
appetizers, and dinner and reservations
beginning tomorrow (Wednesday). The menu
by chef Allen Chen (who, funnily enough,
is no relation to owners Stephen and Albert
Chen, who are also no relation) will change
weekly—he was most recently at Alexander's
Steakhouse. The rotating menu includes
a variety of bar-friendly bites like shooters
and lobster tempura, plus salads, and different
cuts and grades of steak, available in
4 oz.–22 oz. cuts, in addition to seafood,
and a number of side dishes (you can see
the menu on the site).
The GM is Kevin Lee, most recently at Bong
Su and Tamarine. Hours are Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10pm,
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–9pm (last reservation),
and then shifting to more of a lounge atmosphere,
with entertainment like jazz trios, live
vocalists, and DJs kicking in at 11pm and
running until 2am. 244 Jackson St. at Front,
415-989-2539.
I heard
a rumor about a jazz supperclub from
Chris Pastena (formerly a managing partner
at Bruno's) and a business partner moving
into ~LEVENDE
LOUNGE~.
Hopefully I'll be able to get the story
and some details confirmed next week—seems
like things aren't quite final just yet
so I can't confirm it. 1710 Mission St.
at Duboce.
Over
in the Marina, ~NOODLE
THEORY~ has
opened in the former short-lived Ramen
Club space. This is a second location (the
first location is in Rockridge), so maybe
they'll last longer than the previous joint.
The menu looks really appetizing (and uses
Niman Ranch products). It's similar to
the Rockridge location (check out a PDF
of the menu here),
but some new salads and other dishes will
be added soon. Since it's the soft opening,
it's cash only right now, and they are
smartly offering 30% off for this first
week of business, through next Thursday.
Until the beer and wine license kicks in,
they're also offering no corkage/free BYOB.
Hours are Wed–Mon 11:30am–4pm and 5pm–10:30pm,
open continuously with no afternoon break
on the weekends. 3242 Scott St. at Chestnut,
415-359-1238.
The ~ONE-NIGHT
POP-UP RESTAURANT AT BRUNO'S~ last
week from the Chez/OPEN
Restaurant gang (and friends) had
a good start. One tablehopper reader
wrote in this report: “Apps like oysters
Rockefeller, escarole, and mackerel,
leek terrine, pork terrine for around
$10–$12. Entrées around $20–$25 like
filet with bone marrow and fish stew,
and a $40 prime rib for two. They also
had a few Kermit Lynch wines by the glass
and bottle, and even a bottle of '95
Chave Hermitage for $400—not bad for
a one night a week restaurant.” Seriously.
This week's menu includes a chopped or
a wedge salad, a spring vegetable terrine
and a fried pork terrine with mostarda,
a burger, fish stew, and a pasta (slated
to be a vegetarian lasagne), plus chocolate
tarts from a Chez Panisse pastry chef.
Bar-wise, there will be rum punch with
rhubarb syrup, Magnolia beer, and homemade
vermouth from Carl Sutton with 209 Gin.
Dinner
will be served from 8pm–1:30am. If you
want to make a reservation for dinner,
email goodeveningthursday [at] gmail
[dot] com. And don't forget there are
all kinds of cheap and tasty eats downstairs
in the bar, plus affordable cocktails.
For more info on the event, please refer
to the April
28th issue of tablehopper. 2389
Mission St. at 20th St., 415-643-5200.
More
news about irreverent places to get gourmet
bites: Laurent Katgely of Chez
Spencer has
taken over a taco truck and is calling
it ~SPENCER
ON THE GO~.
He is due to be parking it across the street
from Terroir in
SoMa—he hopes to start this Thursday, and
will be parking it there every Thu–Sat
from 6pm–12am or so. Here's a peek
at the menu,
which includes escargot puffs ($2), grilled
sweetbreads with sherry ($9), and he mentioned
a few other dishes that aren't on the menu,
like a foie gras torchon; Katgely expects
to have 80 percent of the menu available
this Thursday. (You'll be able to bring
your bites inside Terroir.) He might be
parking the truck elsewhere around town,
and is already receiving catering offers,
so I expect we'll be able to follow it
on Twitter soon enough. Terroir, 1116 Folsom
St. at 7th St., 415-558-9946.
Also
in the Mission, I was bummed to learn ~MARTA'S
KITCHEN~ is no longer at the Jay'n
Bee Club.
I heard she's going to be opening again
in the Mission—more on that when I can
let the cat outta the bag. It seems the
Jay'n Bee is now serving more traditional
pub fare. 2736 20th St. at Hampshire, 415-824-4190.
Let's
see what news ABC licenses and permits
have to share:
~PAGAN~ is
opening a second location in the Richmond,
now just a few blocks away from Burmese
stalwart Burma Superstar. 731
Clement St. at 8th Ave.
~NINKI SUSHI BAR AND RESTAURANT~ is
opening in the Di Grande Italian
and Seafood spot in the Parkside. 1439 Taraval St. at 25th Ave.
After
15 years of business, ~OLD
KRAKOW POLISH RESTAURANT & ART CAFÉ~ is
closing, and Clay Oven Indian Restaurant is
taking its place. I called and learned
Old Krakow's last day of business is June
14th. 385 W Portal Ave. at 15th
Ave., 415-564-4848.
The Tenderloin
has a new café that just opened last Thursday, ~farm:table~ from
two ex-Blue Bottle workers, Kate and Shannon
Amitin, along with Katherine Renfield,
a personal chef. The petite café was totally
redone, and features Verve coffee,
a micro-roaster in Santa Cruz who is incidentally
into jazz (great name, I gotta say). The
menu includes mini breakfast cakes, French
toast, mini pancakes, soups, and tarts
and cakes, highlighting seasonal and organic
ingredients. The cheerful space includes
a communal table, and room for 10–15 people
total. Hours are Mon–Fri 7am–3pm and Sat–Sun
8am–3pm. 754 Post St. at Jones, 415-292-7089.
According
to a tablehopper reader, it looks like ~THREE
TWINS ORGANIC ICE CREAM~ is
hoping to open at Haight and Fillmore this
Friday May 15th (health inspection
pending). It's their first SF shop
and the only organic ice cream shop in
the city. Can't wait to have the mint flavor.
Hours will be noon–10pm Sun–Thu, and until
11pm Fri–Sat. 254 Fillmore St. at Haight,
415-IT'S-TWIN (working in two weeks).
tablehopper
reader Jason B. writes in that “the old Oasis
market (good sandos) has been shuttered
and turned into ~SOUTH SIDE CAFÉ~.
Popped in and saw the usual selection of
coffees, bagels, and sandwiches as well
as free WiFi.” 433 South Van Ness Ave.
at 15th St., 415-252-0900.
I
have been burning with curiosity about what
was opening into ~A SLICK SPOT ON 24th STREET~—peeking
through the plywood last month I thought
the space looked quite cool, with lots
of wood and a gleaming espresso machine
inside. Couldn't get any leads on it, but
Eater managed to snag
a good picture of
the cafe. Been trying to find more info
on who is opening it, getting close, stand
buy. 3082 24th St. at Folsom.
A
tipster called in to let me know ~TASTE
OF THE HIMALAYAS~ in
the Marina has new owners from Shangri-La
Café & Grill in Rohnert Park. 2420
Lombard St. at Divisadero, 415-674-9898.
~MAGNOLIA~ had
such a good time with their recent crawfish
boil that they're doing two more, on Tuesday
May 19th and then again on Tuesday June
16th. It's $9/lb., with sides of corn,
potatoes, andouille, and other accoutrements.
The crawfish is flown in the same day from
Louisiana. And, how magic, beer is only
$3 on Tuesdays. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic,
415-864-7468.
~RN74~ has
already changed their menu format—gone
are the small plates, and now the menu
is more of a traditional appetizer and
entrée style, so you may want to hit the
ATM before heading over. Lunch dishes now
range from $11–$15 for first courses and
$18–$21 for second courses; dinner dishes
range from $13–$17 for first courses and
$24–$31 for second courses. The changes
were made based on initial guest feedback
about portion size and a desire for larger
entrées. Millennium Tower, 301 Mission
St. at Beale, 415-543-7474.
A
new farmers market is opening in the Metreon
this Friday May 15th. ~ISLAND
EARTH FARMERS MARKET AND COMMUNITY EXCHANGE~ in
an indoor market, slated to eventually
have 160 vendors (not just produce), and
will be open daily. You can see the list
of current vendors here.
In an effort to appeal to downtown workers
and shoppers, you can pick out your produce
and goods, leave with a claim check, and
then call later to have your items run
out to your car curbside. Hours are Mon–Sat
10am–8pm, and Sun 10am–7pm. 101 4th St.
at Mission, 510-547-2358.
If
you live in the San Francisco Bay Area,
and are raising a ninth, tenth, eleventh,
or twelfth-grader, you might want to know
about the ~FOOD
IS POWER MLI SUMMER FILM EXPERIENCE~.
During half-day sessions spanning two weeks
in July, 50 Northern California students
will learn firsthand about sustainable
food production and consumption through
visits to producers and restaurateurs,
such as those at San Francisco's Ferry
Plaza Marketplace. Then, with the guidance
of MLI staff, participants will create
short-form video presentations that share
their views on the theme of sustainable
food with the world. Nokia and the Pearson
Foundation provide all equipment, and participation
is free for students accepted into the
program.
The
Food Is Power MLI Summer Film Experience
is offered over a two-week session this
summer, beginning July 2th and
concluding July 31st, 2009. The deadline
for applications is June 5th, 2009. For
complete details, please visit here.
The ~TIPSY
PIG~ begins
weekend tipsy brunch this Saturday
May 16th. On the menu: dishes
like a grilled cheese breakfast sandwich,
huevos rancheros, French toast, a scramble,
salads, and of course the burger (most
dishes range from $10–$12). Oh yeah,
and a thyme and cheddar biscuit with spiced
honey that sounds quite fantastic.There will
also be some rise-and-shine cocktails, like
a blueberry fizz. No reservations for the
first two weeks. Brunch hours are 10:30am–2pm.
Eventually a light menu will be added
to be in place from the end of brunch
until dinner service beings. 2231 Chestnut
St. at Pierce, 415-292-2300.
This
Sunday, ~JEANTY
AT JACK'S~ will
be celebrating its oyster house history
with a special party, Consider The
Oyster, featuring seven California
oyster growers and 20 wines from 11
wineries, including Schramsberg, J,
and Iron Horse. There will also be
live music. The party is from noon–6pm,
and is $60. 615 Sacramento St. at Montgomery,
415-693-0941.
This
event is just too fantastic: so Daniel
Patterson of Coi was
invited to cook in Copenhagen at the end
of May for a prestigious event that is
gathering quite the international crew
o' chefs (like, oh, Albert Adrià, Pascal
Barbot, and René Redzepi). Patterson was
concerned about missing a couple days of
service at the restaurant, and came up
with the brilliant idea of having ~STUART
BRIOZA AND NICOLE KRASINSKI~ take over
the kitchen and guest chef for two nights!
(Ironically, there are three former Rubicon
employees already working at Coi.) On Friday
May 29th and Saturday May 30th ,
Stuart and Nicole are going to be preparing
a five-course menu for $85, with an optional
$65 wine pairing. Book it while you can!
373 Broadway at Sansome, 415-393-9000.
Here's
a quick recap on some news south of
San Francisco:
~CETRELLA~ in
Half Moon Bay has reopened after its winter
hiatus with a new executive chef, Sylvain
Montassier. The Mediterranean menu will
now include some New French cuisine technique—Montassier's
background includes a number of restaurants
in France, and locally he has worked at
La Table O & Co, Boulevard, and he
was the chef de cuisine at Belden Taverna.
You can check out the spring menu online.
845 Main St. at Spruce, Half Moon Bay,
650-726-4090.
Down in
Redwood City, ~MARTINS
WEST PUB~ has
opened in the century-old Alhambra building,
formerly a theater and saloon (Wyatt Earp
was a regular). The project is co-owned
by GM Moira Beveridge (and you thought
she'd be behind the bar with that last
name), bar manager Derek Smith, and executive
chef Michael Dotson (PlumpJack Café in
Squaw Valley, Lake Tahoe; Heirloom in Sonoma;
and Evvia). In case their names are familiar,
Beveridge and Dotson worked together at Sens restaurant
in San Francisco. The menu features local,
sustainable ingredients and authentic British
gastropub fare, with dishes like a seasonal
banger with mash and peat-grilled lamb
T-bone with Rancho Gordo yellow-eye bean
stew and herb-crusted haggis (!). The pastry
chef is Kelly Fields, who also worked at
Sens—she has a sticky toffee pudding with
brandied caramel and homemade drunken raisin
ice cream on the dessert menu.
Once
the beer and wine license kicks in, there
will be a variety of imported and locally
brewed beers on tap, along with an extensive
bottled beer selection to choose from,
plus a global wine list, and a seasonal
cocktail list (with an extensive selection
of Scotch). The space features a row of
turn-of-the-century columns running down
the center of the dining area, a 25-foot
wooden bar, and dining tables made from
reclaimed wine barrels. Hours are Mon–Fri
11am–12am, Sat 5pm–12am. 831 Main St. at
Broadway, Redwood City, 650-366-4366.
Just
nearby, ~DONATO
ENOTECA~ is
opening in early June. The executive
chef/owner is Donato Scotti, who
hails from Bergamo, Italy. There will
be homemade pastas, along with other
in-house specialties such as sausages,
mostarda, and lamb prosciutto. A sample
dish on the menu includes risotto
e coda di manzo (carnaroli rice
simmered with braised oxtail, sangiovese
wine, and root vegetables), $16. The
space will have three dining rooms,
with outdoor patio dining, an open
kitchen, and floor-to-ceiling wine
storage cabinets in the back wine cellar
room. The wine program will primarily
focus on smaller-production wines (75
percent will be Italian). 100 bottles
will be on offer, with 35 poured by
the glass, quartino, and mezzo. Hours
will be lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm,
Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm. 1041 Middlefield
Rd. at Jefferson, Redwood City.
Roland
Passot's Tanglewood at
Santana Row has closed, and ~LB STEAK~ (LB
as in Left Bank) is going into the space
in June. It's going to be a modern and
moderately priced American steakhouse.
Signature dishes will include braised pork
belly with five-spice Coca-Cola glaze,
whole grilled petrale sole, a 20 oz. porterhouse,
and a lamb saddle double chop. The restaurant
will be open daily for lunch and dinner
as well as offering continuous bar and
terrace service throughout the day. 334
Santana Row at Tatum, Suite 1000, San Jose.
Also
south, ~SAKOON~ is
opening soon at the end of the month in
Mountain View. The 140-seat restaurant
is from Balkar S. Tamber, owner of the
multi-location Bombay
Garden,
and the executive chef is Sachin Chopra,
formerly of Palo Alto's Mantra restaurant.
This location is designed to be contemporary
and offer a finer-dining experience. Most
entrées will be priced under $20, and a
five-course, prix-fixe farmer's market
tasting menu will be offered—both a vegetarian
($35) and non-vegetarian option ($40) will
be available. There will also be an $11.95
lunch buffet Mon–Fri (Sat–Sun $12.95).
Sakoon won't just focus on Southern or
Northern Indian cuisine—look for flavors
of Kashmir, like gushtaba, soft
lamb koftas in a sauce of roasted onion
and yogurt. Both wine and cocktails will
be available. Hours will be Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm,
Sat–Sun 12pm–3pm; dinner Sun–Thu 5pm–10pm,
and Fri–Sat 5pm–10:30pm. 357 Castro St.
at California, Mountain View. 
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