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AUGUST
4, 2009 | SAN FRANCISCO ~THE
CORNER~, the newer sister restaurant to Weird
Fish in the Mission is going through some significant changes:
there's a new chef, Alex Jackson. Jackson's background includes
Gramercy Tavern (he staged there for six
months), a year at Fergus Henderson's St.
John, plus Joel and Bacchanalia in Atlanta.
Jackson's experience at St. John means he will be using whole animals
at The Corner, starting with lamb. They are going to start small
(like the teeny kitchen), offering 4–5 antipasti and 8–10 hot dishes,
and they will begin to make house-made charcuterie in October. Morning
service and lunch have been discontinued until the evening menu is
dialed in. The starting menu made my mouth water, with this week's
dishes including an app of garganelli with crispy lamb sweetbreads
and truffle fondue ($9); sautéed black cod with cipollini onions
($15); and fried rabbit with corn custard brûlée, mache, charred
onion, and king oyster mushrooms ($14). Look for a full menu to be
in place on August 17th, and lunch and brunch will kick back in by
November 1st. Open daily at 4pm. 2199 Mission St. at 18th St., 415-932-6939.
Another Mission
chef change: Chris Kronner (Serpentine,
Slow Club, Good Evening Thursday) is taking
over for chef Jason Fox of ~BAR
TARTINE~. Fox was at Bar Tartine
for almost three years; after an amicable
parting, he is currently exploring some options
and looking for the right fit. Kronner's menu
will have a more approachable and simpler style,
integrating traditional European and contemporary
Bay Area influences. He is excited to bring
in and highlight products from special purveyor
relationships he's been cultivating of late
(including a blend of 30 kinds of lettuces
from a source in the neighborhood, how's that
for local?). Look for collaboration with Sam
White on some events as well (they work together
on a variety of things, like the OPENrestaurant events).
Another cool component is Kronner will be working
closely with owners Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad
Robertson on having specialty baked items that
are just for the restaurant, and will be showcasing
items from Robertson's upcoming book, Tartine
Bread (it's the working title; to be published
by Chronicle Books, Fall 2010). The initial
menu features a torn-bread salad, preserved
tuna and vegetables, whole chicken in a cast-iron
skillet with giblet jus, and items inspired
by Good Evening Thursday, like the Prather
filet with bone marrow and onion soubise, and
a bone-in rib-eye steak for two. There will
also be some bar-friendly items, like a burger,
and walnut anchoïade with
radishes. Fox's last day is August 14th, and
the transition will be in place by the third
week of August. 561 Valencia St. at 17th St.,
415-487-1600.
Another chef change: over at ~CITIZEN
CAKE~, William Pilz has
departed. Owner Elizabeth Falkner thanks
him for working at Citizen Cake as long
as he did (he came with her to Iron Chef
in 2006), but was ready to make some
changes to the menu. Falkner has a good
crew at the restaurant which is helping
her in the transition, including sous
Jack Funderburg, and Elgin Espiritu from
Orson. The new menu has already launched,
with lower prices and dishes that are
more fitting with the easygoing style
of the restaurant. Back on the menu is
the grilled NY steak with horseradish
ice cream and tempura beets ($24), and
you can now get the lunchtime Citizen
burger with French fries and harissa
aioli ($15) for dinner, while vegetarians
will dig the gnudi with toy box tomatoes
($16). You can read the new menu in its
entirety here.
399 Grove St. at Gough, 415-861-2228.
Well, looks like we had two local chefs competing
on the next season of the Food Network's ~THE
NEXT IRON CHEF~, but since Nate
Appleman has changed his affiliation to New
York (the press release I received said "Chef/Butcher,
New York, NY"), it means our sole local rep
is Dominique Crenn of Luce.
Do us proud, Dominique! The season starts this
October.
Am
super stoked about the groovy new place I'm
going to be able to hang out at just a block
from my apartment. A while back, I mentioned
a beer and wine bar (and café) was moving into
the One World space. Well, here's more: it's
called ~MATCHING HALF~, and they are
going to serve individual drip coffees and
Chemex pots, along with a simplified espresso
menu. They are planning on using Sightglass
Coffee (pending on when the roaster
is up and running) and will have several organic
options for dairy. There will also be a few
local and regional beers on draft and a changing
list of wines by the glass and bottle. Since
there is just a small oven, it's going to be
fairly simple food-wise, so expect fresh salads
and sandwiches for lunch, and bar bites in
the evening. The goal is a mid-September opening
date, stand by! Lookin' forward to it. 1799
McAllister St. at Baker.
The wait is over: ~GUSSIE'S
CHICKEN AND WAFFLES~ is open in the former
Powell's Place location. If you want
to peek at the menu, this posting on Grub
Street has a list of items you can
snarf, including buttermilk-fried chicken
salad and a variety of waffles, from the
signature sweet potato waffles, to cornmeal
waffles, to vegan buckwheat waffles (but
no chicken on the side for the last one,
right?). Hours are Sun–Thu 7am–11pm, and
Fri–Sat 7am–2am. 1521 Eddy St. at Fillmore,
415-409-2529.
More
Fillmore-based news. Actually, this is just
a little taste: ~FRAICHE
YOGURT~ from Palo Alto is going
to open in the other half of the space next
to Woodhouse
Fish Co., hopefully by the end of summer.
I normally don't cover all the comings and
goings of yogurt places in this town, but this
one is special. To wit: you can choose from
house-made and organic fresh or frozen
yogurt, and there's hand-shaved Callebaut chocolate
as a topping. I have been promised all the
details very shortly, but wanted to give y'all
this lil' teaser for now! 1910 Fillmore St.
at Pine. (Photo from fraicheyogurt.com)
Got word that ~CARTE
415~ is finally opening
this Wednesday. To recap, this is a lunch/food
stand from Joshua Skenes with fresh sandwiches,
like farm egg salad or a twist on a bahn
mi with Sonoma chicken, plus salads,
soup (I previewed an early girl gazpacho
not too long ago), and drinks, including
fresh lemonade. It's located in the atrium
in the building right next to RN74. Hours
are Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm. 101 2nd
St. at Mission.
More sandwich news: I mentioned last week
that ~IAN BEGG AND RYAN MAXEY~ had
a small North Beach project up their sleeves.
Well, the info ended up getting put on lockdown
(read: I got cut off from the scoop), so all
I can say is it's going into the space next
to Enrico's.
Sandwiches. Opening soon. 504 Broadway at Kearny.
According
to permits, ~PIZZERIA AVELLINO~ is
moving into the former Curbside Taqueria location.
According to some comments on
Eater (which included one that said, "Finally,
a new pizza place in my 'hood! I am so
pumped I just donkey-kicked my dog!") it looks
like there will be both a Neapolitan/thin-crust
style and New York style (to be confirmed).
A source told me the pizzaiolo has 20 years
of experience. Based on the news they're testing
pizzas already, it sounds like it's close to
opening. 2769 Lombard St. at Lyon.
More permit revelations: the folks behind ~SOZAI~ have
something brewing at the Tacos Santana Bar & Grill space
in the Mission. I was told I'll be furnished
with more details in a couple weeks. 2491 Mission
St. at 21st St.
Over in the East Bay, I was very very sorry
to learn ~ECCOLO~ will
be closing after a little bit over five
years in business, with their last day scheduled
for Saturday August 22nd. They will be running
their usual schedule for lunch and dinner through
Monday the 17th. From Wednesday August the
18th through the 22nd, Eccolo will be serving
special dinners to say farewell to everyone
(like a meal with Bob Cannard) and highlighting
all the things they like to cook and eat. In
an email, chef Christopher Lee stated, "Things
simply didn't turn out the way we thought
they would. I'm soon putting together my
next project, a old-fashioned butcher shop
that will sell top-quality fresh meats, lots
of my own salumi including prosciutto, a few
modest wines, good olive oils, vinegars, condiments,
handmade pastas, even do custom dry aging for
customers. It's an exciting project and
I'm really looking forward to it. We may
even cook a set menu (maybe with a few add-ons)
for a few tables two or three nights a week!
Location TBA. It's that or move to Spain."
Here's wishing them all the best; it's a sad
closure. 1820 Fourth St. at Hearst, Berkeley,
510-644-0444.
Also in the 510, things are getting close
with the ~LAKE
CHALET~ in Oakland, opening in
the 100-year-old Lake Merritt Boathouse on
August 17th. As you may have surmised by the
name, the owners are Gar and Lara Truppelli
of the Beach Chalet Brewery & Restaurant
and Park Chalet Garden Restaurant/San Francisco.
The executive chef is Jarad Gallagher, most
recently at One Market Restaurant. The menu
will include offerings from a raw bar, Dungeness
crab cakes, petrale sole "piccata," and BBQ
baby back ribs. There will also be an outdoor
lakeside barbeque and weekend brunch, plus
cocktails and handcrafted Beach Chalet beers.
CCS Architects (Perbacco, La Mar, Restaurant
LuLu) designed the interior and have completely
restored the boathouse. It's pretty massive,
with a total of 325 indoor and 100 outdoor
seats. Open daily for lunch from 11am–3:30pm,
dinner from 3:30pm–11pm, plus weekend brunch.
1520 Lakeside Dr. at 17th St., Oakland, 510-653-8660. 
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