Oakland

January 31, 2014
As A16 approaches its 10th birthday in San Francisco (on February 14th), I think about the numerous meals (and stellar Southern Italian wines!) I’ve had there over the years. But one thing I’ve never been able to enjoy there is...
I find myself thinking a lot about the fried rice ($11) at Ramen Shop in Rockridge. There’s fried rice, and then there’s this one. One night, the bowl of dark, dusky, just-crisp-enough rice came packed with plump oysters, squid, and...
One of the best things I have ever eaten in my life is the vada pav I had on my trip to Mumbai a few years ago. It’s a vegetarian slider of sorts, with a crisp-and-creamy-and-crazy-seasoned potato patty tucked into...
My friends had just returned from their Hawaiian vacation and wanted somewhere easygoing to dine at: “Marcia, we can’t handle anything too crazy or chaotic.” In order to maintain their mahalo vibe, it seemed dinner at Fusebox would be the...
A dear friend, who is also a cook, told me I needed to meet his friend Alexeis “Lexi” Filipello—he was right, we all spent a night talking sandwiches over drinks. It’s nice when you meet fellow sandwich obsessives, and it’s...
Tucked in the historic Swan’s Market in Old Oakland is Cosecha Cafe, the kind of place I would just love to have in my ZIP code. But it’s not (I am lighting a candle), so I had to scoot over...
Mac and cheese. It’s oddly and often done poorly in restaurants, featuring mushy pasta, curdled béchamel, too much cheese, not enough cheese, too dry, not golden brown…. The list of crimes against mac and cheese is endless. So when a...
Predecessors. Big shoes to fill. Legacies. Nope, it’s never light stuff. So when chef Paul Canales left his post as executive chef of Oliveto after six years (he was at the restaurant for 15 years altogether), and it was announced...
Before the saturation of San Francisco with quality pizza places hit its current all-time high, I’d have to make the trek to Pizzaiolo every time I was craving one of Charlie Hallowell’s thin-crust, wood-fired dreamboat pizzas. Of course I’d always...