The next time you walk into Dennis Leary’s ~CANTEEN~ on Sutter, you’re going to do a double-take. Designer Charles de Lisle of Charles de Lisle Workshop has given it an extensive remodel, which includes a lot of floor-to-ceiling plywood. He explains, “We started with the idea of sheathing the room in plywood, to make the character of the space still feel humble, but add some depth and pattern to bring it to an even more intimate and cozy level.” Noting the apple-green counter was gone, he wrote to me, “Dennis was looking three-five years down the road and felt that, just like the style of the ever-changing menu, the interior should have a bit of flexibility to it.” You’ll notice a big “carnival light box” over the counter, with a bright red, powder-coated, perforated steel trough—and now a matching maroon counter. The tables were refitted with cherry red, high-gloss laminate and thick metal banding, plus plywood wine racks were installed, and instead of the bolted-down diner stools at the counter, you’ll now find simple workroom stools from Grainger Industrial Supply. Looks like the kind of place where I’d like to go to work on some of Leary’s eggs Benedict and Parker House rolls.
DUMPLINGS & BUNS in Pacific Heights has expanded its menu with a new section of entrées, soups, and combination plates, like 24-hour Kwan pork sliders, Pau Pau Lee’s tomato beef plate, teriyaki beef skewers with rice, and spicy and sweet “XO” dragon wings made with Cognac, plus three kinds of soup (wonton, Burmese-style chicken noodle, and egg drop), salad wraps, and more. Don’t forget some dessert dumplings to go. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. 2411 California St. at Fillmore, 415-292-6209.
In the Sunset, Eater mentions there’s a new café called DRIP COFFEE BAR across the street from Sunrise Deli. The house coffee and espresso is from Sightglass, and there are some items to eat, plus free Wi-Fi. 1916 Irving St. at 21st Ave.
It’s that time of the year, when ~POGGIO~’s bollito misto is back! Offered Mon-Wed in the evenings, the bollito carello (cart) will wheel up, serving slowly simmered meats such as housemade cotechino sausage, beef tongue, brisket, veal breast, and oxtail, all carved tableside. $19 (dinner only) and available until spring.
Canteen’s interior. Photo courtesy Charles de Lisle Workshop.