Have we hit peak beef yet? Nope. Now open in SoMa is ITTORYU GOZU from chef/owner Marc Zimmerman of MZ Dining Group (previously Alexander’s Steakhouse SF), who has opened his paean to the wagyu breed with co-founder Ben Jorgensen. Look for a whole-animal approach, featuring lesser-known parts and cuts, served in a traditional kappo-style tasting menu format (which includes five different cooking techniques: raw, grilling, steaming, frying, and simmering, but the main focus is the robatayaki style of open-fire cooking). The Gozu menu ($120-$150 per person) spans two-and-a-half hours, with 15 items over 10 courses, and includes local and Japanese seafood, wild foods, and more.
There is room for 25 guests to be seated around the horseshoe counter, circling the open-fire robata grills; there’s also a private dining room for 12; the Kitchen Table, with a family-style feeling for 6-8 guests; and a lounge area. Design agency a l m project (Benu) is behind the design.
Beverage director, Lindsey Young, has created pairing menus, and the bar also has cocktails with a Japanese sensibility; a forty-bottle sake collection of nihonshu, highlighting rare female toji (master brewers); 40 whiskies (including rare and exclusive Japanese whisky, Scotch, and local distilleries); high-quality wines, beer, and more. Tickets are available on TOCK. Open Tue-Sat 5pm to close; lunch coming soon. 201 Spear St. at Howard.
The minimalist counter at Gozu. Photo courtesy of Gozu.