what’s cookin’
Howdy, hopper friends! Happy Friday. I hope the misty Fogust wind hasn’t blown you away—I just keep reminding myself that September and Rocktober are coming soon with our best weather (but I’m sad peaches are leaving us early this year, wah).
I have also been hanging on for the return of the Despacio sound system at Portola Music Festival the last weekend of September (kicking off with Despacio Extravaganza, a special Friday night party to celebrate Portola’s fifth anniversary!). Friends who love music: I really hope to see you on the dance floor—I will be in that tent from the very first song they play to the very last. Freaks only! You can read my writeup about last year’s Despacio at Portola, which was so life changing that I chased it to Miami a month later. (Here’s the proof: a pic of yours truly having the time of her life at Despacio at iii Points in Miami last October.) AND: Soulwax also just announced a Thursday night—September 24th—pre-Portola-party show at the Regency; the last time I saw them perform there in 2018 with their full setup was so sick! Rest up, buckle up.
Another thing to strap in for: as many of you longtime subscribers already know, this is tablehopper’s 20th anniversary year (mamma mia), and I’m finally mustering the energy and carving out the time to kick off a series of small celebrations over the coming months. Unfortunately, I just don’t have the bandwidth to produce a big bodacious PARTAY on the scale of Bohemian Sunday at the Savoy Tivoli a couple years ago, but we’ll have some quality time together at a variety of intimate tablehopper cocktail parties, special dinners, happy hours, brunches, and more. I look forward to clinking glasses with you! 🥂 There will be bubbles (that should be the title of my memoir!). Only supporting subscribers (and awesome patrons and super patrons) will be able to get tickets to these soirées! Stay tuned!
If you (or a brand or company or product you work with) would like to be involved as an event partner or sponsor/donor/supporter/underwriter, please get in touch! There are a bunch of opportunities and ways we can work together. Thank you for supporting tablehopper’s 20th anniversary event series!
There’s much more to say about my 20th, but first, this bizzee lady has work to do. I hope you enjoy today’s issue: I hit up a couple new places this past week offering affordable dining, from khao mun gai to katsu.
In fried chicken we trust. XO!
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Calling All Khao Mun Gai Fans: Here’s Where to Find Some Really Delicious Thai Chicken Rice
After looking at the hunger-inducing pictures of the khao mun gai (Thai chicken rice) at the new Ruay Mitr (the name means “prosperous friends”) on the edge of Nob Hill and Chinatown, I asked tablehopper summer intern Francesca Gasparini to please write it up in an opening report. But, I couldn’t stop thinking about it, so I headed over for dinner with a friend to check it out this past week (I love KMG).
And then there’s the damn AI art on the walls, with AI-generated street scenes and posters for the business, which feel at odds with the homestyle food and intention of this place. Faux nostalgia is so dystopian—they should just put some vintage Thai beer posters up and call it a day. Heck, I would prefer bare walls to retro AI slop. Please make it stop. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.
And so, to not render Francesca’s work in vain, here’s what she wrote about the new shop:
Ruay Mitr prides itself on perfectly prepared, tender chicken, fragrant rice, comforting broth and homemade sauces. Inspired by neighborhood chicken and rice shops common in Thailand, the restaurant offers just a handful of dishes prepared using traditional Thai recipes and fresh ingredients to infuse the meat with flavor. There are a few variations of the dish you can choose from—including poached, fried, or braised chicken with curry—yet their menu extends past just the one dish.
Traditional Thai chicken and rice shops are rooted in flavorful meat served over khao mun (fragrant rice), and extend to include crispy pork belly, barbecued pork, roast duck, and slow-braised pork, among others. To honor this same practice, Ruay Mitr’s menu also features barbecued pork and crispy pork belly. In addition to their meat and rice dishes, the shop rounds out their menu with a selection of traditional appetizers (the crispy curried samosas and crab wontons sound divine) and mango sticky rice and fried bananas for dessert. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.
A Casual Place for Japanese-Korean Katsu Plates (and More) Opens in Anza Vista
Cinderella Bakery Opens a Second Location on 24th Street This Week
The project delays are over: according to a post on Instagram, Cinderella Bakery (a family-owned Russian bakery that has been in Inner Richmond since 1953!) will be opening their second location in the former La Victoria on 24th Street in the Mission on Friday August 28th. (I wrote about this project back in February 2025, so it’s good to see it come to fruition.)
Bring on the pelmeni in broth (perfect for Fogust), pirogi, piroshki, and all their pastries. Owners Mike and Marika Fishman are looking forward to being part of the Calle 24 community. I’ll get more details together for an upcoming column, but I just wanted to share the good news for now. 2937 24th St. at Alabama.
Ugh! Hideous Vandals Broke Most of the Many Windows at Boogaloos in the Mission
What the actual hell. A tablehopper reader wrote in with some terrible news: “Someone broke all the windows at Boogaloos! It didn’t look like anything was stolen, but someone had knocked a hole in all 8(?) front-facing windows. It’s really terrible.” Indeed. My friend who has his shop nearby told me most of the big windows were boarded up, and it’s going to be a costly repair job. For a corner location known for its big windows, it’s so disheartening to see.
I reached out for more information and clarification on how we can help, and spoke with one of the owners, Antonio Luna, who took over the business with his wife, Karla Garcia, in April 2025. He said it happened sometime on Monday night (August 17th), and the SFPD called him super early on Tuesday morning (at 4:15am) to let him know. Boogaloos was the only place hit. It looks like 12 windows will need to be replaced, which is estimated to cost more than $55K. Fortunately, insurance is going to cover it (after they pay their deductible), but the restaurant had to close for two days to clean up the mess, and business is slow. If you can please ignore the boarded-up windows and go visit them for brunch this weekend, or in the coming month, it would really help them out.
Of course, someone has already tagged the plywood. Is there an artist/muralist who can help make the plywood look better until the windows are replaced? It will keep things from looking so rundown (they need all the customers they can get). You can call the restaurant and ask for Antonio.
Luna said this was the third time someone has broken a window at Boogaloos since they took over—the most recent time was just two weeks ago, and the vandals tried to steal their espresso machine. He paid to replace the window out of his pocket ($1,500). Here’s hoping The City can step in and help—this Mission brunch spot has been holding down the sunny corner of 22nd and Valencia since 1994. 3296 22nd St. at Valencia.
Noe Valley Updates: Alice’s Restaurant Is Closing, Fresca 2.0 Is Opening
According to this post on Threads, “After 30 years Alice’s in Noe Valley is closing! 😩 Sad to see this neighborhood Chinese neighborhood gone.” Sharon and James Sung opened Alice’s Restaurant in 1996, which is known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes, like smoked pork, Alice’s spicy eggplant, and orange chicken, and this neighborhood spot is also popular for its great lunch special. I called and got the word that the couple is retiring—the last day of business is August 31st.
I guess customers will be able to head over to the nearby and Sung family–owned Eric’s Restaurant (Kim Dang and Tony Sung), which is also known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes (it opened in 1991). But, alas, we will no longer be able to compare who makes a better General Tso’s chicken. 1599 Sanchez St. at 29th St.
You can read this story in SFGATE about the return of Fresca (one of SF’s first Peruvian restaurants) to Noe Valley, thanks to the next generation of the Calvo-Perez family business. The opening is set for Monday August 24th, starting at 4pm, and reservations are open now. Follow along for updates here. 3945 24th St. at Sanchez.
the lush
Getting Cinched Up
Just a heads-up that The Cinch Saloon will be closing temporarily for renovations starting Monday September 21st. According to the sign in their window: “We will keep you posted on social media as the reopening date becomes available, sometime around mid-October. Thank you for your patience during that time!”
The Friday before the closure (September 18th) will be a wild one: the illustrious Anna Conda is coming back to town and holding a Charlie Horse reunion, the rock ’n’ roll drag show that was always wild! From the flyer: “The old gang is getting back together. A little older but clearly none the wiser! Anna Conda welcomes to the stage once more: Monistat, Miss Nix, Lucy Borden, Mutha Chucka, Dizzy Blank, Juanita Fajita, Kegel Kater, Downy, Turleen, Sandy Shorts, Noseeum, and Sheena Rose. With the Marcy Playground Minute with Miss Chief at 11pm. DJ Dirty Knees. Guest Bartender Michael Brown. Names names names, Darling. Zimmerframe valet at the door. FRIDAY SEPT 18TH. SHOW AT MIDNIGHT!” (And, psssst, it’s Glendon’s birthday that night!) 1723 Polk St. at Washington.
Be SF Proud, Drink Pisco
By Francesca Gasparini
San Francisco’s trademark cocktail just got its own week of valor. From August 21st–28th, local bars will be taking part in Pisco Punch Week, a time to celebrate the ingenious recipe created right here in The City, while shedding light on its namesake Peruvian spirit.
Pisco punch was created in the mid-1800s at the Bank Exchange Saloon, a famed Gold Rush bar, by bartender and owner Duncan Nicol. The drink is built around a few key ingredients: Peruvian Italia pisco, pineapple gum syrup, and fresh lemon juice. While the recipe was supposed to remain a secret, many were quick to reinvent the drink due to its immediate popularity. Loved for its tropical, refreshing taste with a discreet yet potent dose of alcohol, pisco punch became known as “lemonade that kicks like a mule” (according to the Pisco Punch Week website). Prohibition snuffed out much of the pisco punch craze, but BarSol (pisco producer and host of Pisco Punch Week) hopes to reinvigorate San Franciscans’ appreciation for this local cocktail through this event.
Throughout the week, participating bars—including Aziza, Bar Esper, Bar Sprezzatura, Elixir, High Horse, Hog Island, Kaiyo, La Mar, Lillie Coit, Novela, Old Ship, Per Diem, San Francisco Historium, and Tiya—will be serving original cocktails made using BarSol pisco, in addition to traditional pisco punch.
Pisco punch is not only a relic of San Francisco’s culinary legacy, but also an introduction to the rich history of the spirit. BarSol prides itself on preserving the same century-old technique it uses to distill fresh wines fermented exclusively from pisco grapes harvested in the Southern Valley of Ica and distilled at Bodega San Isidro. Salud!
the archivist
The Flatiron That Refuses to Fall
By Francesca Gasparini
Having withstood earthquakes, organized crime, ever-changing businesses, and Hollywood’s greatest stars, the famed Sentinel Building (otherwise known as Columbus Tower) stands steadfast in the narrow sliver before the intersection of Kearny Street and Columbus Avenue. This fabulous flatiron building catches the eye of everyone in North Beach with its bright green patina and countless bay windows.
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