Last week I had a chance to preview a new tasting menu by chef Charlie Kleinman at ~WEXLER’S~ in the Financial District. He’s calling the first menu “Paris, Texas,” (so clever, and one of my favorite films) featuring classic French bistro dishes through a barbecue lens, like celery root soup with crispy ham hock, cornbread croutons, and sauce verte; a phenomenal smoked mackerel escabèche with frisée, bacon, and fingerlings; seared diver scallop with smoked salmon roe, crème fraîche, and melted “slaw”; duck confit with smoked lentils (a fun play on smoked beans), roasted apple, aigre-doux; and for dessert, you’ll have to make some room for roasted sweet potato pot de crème and rosemary sablé. It’s a very fulfilling dinner for $55, and wine pairings are $30. If you haven’t had a chance to visit Wexler’s lately, here’s a good excuse to return. You can keep up with upcoming menus on their Facebook page and Twitter.
And one more special menu for your radar: since our months to enjoy foie gras are numbered, BAYWOLF is offering “A Farewell to Foie Gras” menu on Sunday February 26th. It includes gougère with duck liver flan; salt and pepper-cured foie gras salad with escarole, walnuts, and caramelized apples; foie gras ravioli with double duck consommé; and foie gras-stuffed duck breast with peas, greens, and fava beans. $85. (If you can’t make it, they will be doing a “Farewell to Foie Gras Reduxx Dinner” in April.) 3853 Piedmont Ave. at Rio Vista, Oakland, 510-655-6004.
At Wexler’s: seared diver scallop with smoked salmon roe, crème fraîche, and melted “slaw.” Photo: © tablehopper.com.