Chocolate egg cream at Shorty Goldstein’s. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Howdy amigos. I can’t believe the ONE night I get invited to go out on a friend’s boat to watch the launch of The Bay Lights, and we are getting rain. It’s been bone-dry and of course it has to rain tonight. So. Lame. Guess I’m going to have to catch the lights on another night, unless I find a place indoors to watch the show. If anyone would like to have me join them in their room at the Hotel Vitale or Mandarin Oriental, let me know—I can bring some Champagne. (Wait, that sounds really wrong. I am not a swinger, for the record.)
Speaking of the Mandarin Oriental, I really enjoyed the Jing Tea seminar I attended on Saturday—this die-hard espresso drinker is now partaking in Jing’s jasmine pearl tea in the afternoon. Who knew? (Sidebar: if you want to experience one of the best facials of your life, be sure to check in to the Mandarin Oriental spa—talk about blissing out. Dry winter skin, be gone!)
And now, let’s swing over to the completely opposite side of the life spectrum. The most memorable part of my weekend was seeing the premiere of A Place at the Table on Friday evening. It’s about hunger, and America’s food deserts, and the staggering fact that 50 million people in the U.S.—one in four children—don’t know where their next meal is coming from. The film is so powerful, and distressing, and one that every single American needs to see. You can see it in theaters, or even download it on iTunes. I vowed to speak about the film to everyone I came in contact with over the weekend, and here I am, telling you about it now. Please consider taking some time away from your usual midweek TV viewing and watching this important documentary, now. Trust, it made me look at my Sunday farmers’ market, which is just two blocks from my front door, in a whole new (and very appreciative) light. Hell, my whole overindulgent life got a massive reality check.
To encourage people to spread the word about the film, I am going to do another giveaway. I still have an extra pair of tickets to give away to the upcoming Taste of the Nation event on March 21st, a benefit for Share Our Strength and its No Kid Hungry efforts. All you need to do is forward today’s tablehopper newsletter to five friends or more and add a note about watching A Place at the Table. Be sure to Cc: or Bcc: me at email@example.com so I know you sent it—I promise I won’t use anyone’s email address. The deadline to enter is Friday March 8th at 11:59pm. I’ll notify the winner on Saturday. Good luck! And thanks for spreading the word. Seriously. Big thanks.
In gratitude, Marcia Gagliardi
Over the weekend, I got to experience a test lunch at SHORTY GOLDSTEIN’S, the new FiDi Jewish deli from Michael Siegel, formerly of Betelnut. As previously mentioned on tablehopper, the lunchtime spot features a number of family recipes, from the rustic knishes (so delicious) to the chopped liver (the version here is light on the liver, just the way “Nanna” liked it). There are also a variety of sandwiches on rye (for now, the bread is from Cinderella). The housemade and juicy and lightly smoke-kissed pastrami is really notable—Siegel uses Double R Ranch for the beef, a sister to Snake River Farms.
And don’t miss the prakas: beef-stuffed cabbage with a sweet and sour-tomato sauce, and broccolini (get the mashed potatoes too). There are also breakfast items, like pastrami or corned beef Benedict, and a gravlax plate. Oh yeah, and you can get a chocolate or vanilla egg cream, plus some rugelach to bring back to the office. Check out the entire menu here.
The space is just across the street from the Crocker Galleria, and is meant to be primarily takeout, but there are 25 bright turquoise seats where you can plunk down at either a counter and some tables. Welcome to the neighborhood, Shorty! Hours are Mon-Fri 8am-4pm. 126 Sutter St. at Montgomery, 415-986-2676.
Chef Alex Ong gave tablehopper a peek at a preliminary menu, which includes a variety of raw items like sea bream, radish, mizuna, sea salt, and chile-lemon soy. Small plates include chicken livers with onions and black sauce, and Jalan Alor-style chicken wings (Jalan Alor is the name of a Kuala Lumpur street that turns into an open-air food court at night). Also on the menu is a selection of salads including cress with chicken, spiced pumpkin seeds, crispy chicken “chicharrone,” and serrano-lime dressing, and hot dishes like Ong’s superlative lamb belly with jalapeño vinegar; braised oxtail hot pot with shiitake and beech mushrooms, greens, and a poached egg; hand-cut egg noodles with wild boar, garlic chives, Sichuan pepper; as well as a variety of sides like sugar snap peas, roasted garlic, braised leeks. Yeah, delicious. Dishes will cost $7-$15. Looking forward to trying these out (and more). Stand by for confirmation on the reopening date this weekend!
Due to open Wednesday March 6th is Charles Phan’s all-day restaurant/café, SOUTH at SFJAZZ. The menu of small plates is Southern-influenced and meant to be casual (and quick, since people will primarily be there for performances), like baked oyster ($3); wedge salad with blue cheese, lardons, buttermilk ($10); duck rillettes, watermelon rind pickle, Creole mustard ($13); chive calas, pepper jelly ($8); and alligator sausage, peppers, and caramelized onion ($13). You can view the entire menu here (you can also view the list of cocktails at that link as well). Dinner service is 5:30pm-10pm; breakfast and lunch will be coming later. 201 Franklin St. at Fell, 415-539-3905.
Some little news bites here and there: This Thursday March 7th, GALETTE 88 is going to open for dinner from 5pm-9pm (perfect timing with First Thursdays!). Moving forward, they hope to stay open later one night a week; stand by.
Eater announced the opening of FOUNDATION CAFE in the former Pan de Mie space. Look for items like a carnitas omelet with chipotle aioli on ciabatta for breakfast (um, sign me up) and a blackened rockfish sandwich with pineapple slaw and cilantro-chipotle cream for lunch. Check out the website for more. Open Mon-Fri 7am-3pm. 335 Kearny St. at Pine, 415-781-8880.
Good news for the Lower Haight: According to Haighteration, THREE TWINS ICE CREAM (254 Fillmore St. at Haight) and ESTELA’S FRESH SANDWICHES (250 Fillmore St. at Haight) will be rising like phoenixes from the ashes of that horrible fire that destroyed their businesses. They are hoping to start reconstruction in April and are aiming to open by June 1st.
Meanwhile, in the Upper Haight, Uppercasing reports ALL YOU KNEAD (Jesus, I haven’t been in that place in 15 years) closed over the weekend and will reopen in a few months serving Asian food (um, what kind?). Huh. 1466 Haight St. at Ashbury.
Over by the ballpark, MOMO’S is celebrating its 15th anniversary with a light remodel (fresh paint, fixtures, art, and additional TVs) and new dishes on chef Damon Hall’s menu, like barbecue ribs and pulled pork sliders, and over the weekend, there’s a brunch Benedict bar (sounds dangerous). 760 2nd St. at King 415-227-8660.
A tipster sent me pics of the upcoming LILAH BELLE’S coming to Divisadero (you may recall this was the prepared foods joint on Dolores Park that morphed into Cervecería de MateVeza). Signage reports March 11th is the opening date. Eater adds it will be open weekdays only (Mon-Thu 11am-8pm, Fri 11am-6pm). 1207 Divisadero St. at Eddy.
Sadly, it appears that CORAZON JUICE BAR in the Mission has closed. Mission Local reports that the shop, which opened last summer, left a sign on the door that reads: “We apologize for the abrupt end. Thank you for your support and patronage. It’s been a pleasure serving the Mission District.” The unfortunately named Sidewalk Juice continues its Mission domination. 3275 22nd St. at Bartlett.
As reported on tablehopper last month, FOG CITY DINER is closing to make way for a new iteration: FOGCITY from Bruce Hill. Though the closure was slated for March 15th, the doors shut a little earlier than expected according to this post on Scoop. 1300 Battery St. at Embarcadero.
Galette 88 - 88 Hardie Pl. San Francisco - 415-989-2222
Have you always dreamed about preparing beautiful charcuterie? Learn how at a salumi-making class at KULETO’S on Saturday March 16th. Chef Bob Helstrom will lead students in traditional preparation of the meats, followed by a tasting and wine pairing at the restaurant. You’ll go home with pre-cured samples too. The class begins at 10:30am and runs for about two hours; $75 per person. Reservations can be made by email. 221 Powell St. at O’Farrell, 415-397-7720.
If your interests run more in the chocolate vein, check out the upcoming Chocolate 101 classes from DANDELION CHOCOLATE. You’ll learn about chocolate making, the ingredients used in chocolate, and taste each of Dandelion’s single-origin bars for comparison. The class is from 7pm-9pm on Tuesday March 26th, and another session will take place Tuesday April 30th. The class costs $50 per person, and tickets can be purchased here. 740 Valencia St. at 18th St., 415-349-0942.
This weekend has a couple groovy pop-ups you should consider: On Saturday March 9th, Marla Bakery will be at DEAR MOM, serving its awesome brunch items from 11:30am-4pm. Ends up this will be a regular thing on second Saturdays. (You can view other upcoming brunch guest chefs here.) 2700 16th St. at Harrison, 415-625-3362.
You a fan of homemade pasta? Yeah, who isn’t. You really should swing by GOURMET & MORE on Saturday after brunch so you can stock your fridge with some of the wonderful artisanal pastas made by Mattarello (aka John Pauley and his wife Anna Li, who trained extensively in pasta-making in Bologna), like their delicious pappardelle and picture-perfect garganelli, and tortellini sold with a container of brodo ($12). (To be clear, these are pastas you’ll need to cook at home.) Don’t pass up their ragù ($8). Heck, you really need to try their decadent lasagne ($9) while you’re at it. (You can thank me later for the hot tip.) The pasta pop-up runs from 1pm-4pm. 141 Gough St. at Oak, 415-874-9133.
It’s suddenly getting even easier to stock your fridge (and belly) with quality food items from some local businesses and organizations. First up is Good Eggs, which allows you to order delicious items from local food producers, like Anda Piroshki and Eji’s Ethiopian on Bernal Hill (which I never have time to schlep out to get), or beautiful pastured eggs from Capay Valley Farms, seafood from Two X Sea, almonds from Yolo Farmstand, bread from Firebrand and Josey Baker Bread, and fresh-pressed juices from sōw. You will also make all kinds of new discoveries, like healing soups from Mama Tong or biscuits from Biscuit Bender. Yeah, it’s kind of like your dream grocery store. You can arrange for delivery throughout the Bay Area (only $3.99) or pickup from a variety of locations. Check it out.
A few weeks ago, I tried out a new offering from CUESA, the Chef Market Basket. Local chefs provide the recipes and CUESA and the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market provide the goods to create a DIY dinner kit. The tasty recipes are designed to be easy to follow; for March, the chefs are Robin Song of Hog & Rocks and Lauren Kiino of Il Cane Rosso (you can take your pick, or try both!). This month’s offerings are $19-23 for two or three servings. You can pick up your basket any Tuesday this month or have it delivered directly to your door via Good Eggs. Take a look here!
Lastly, check out the meat delivery options from Belcampo Meat Co. Remember, they’re the folks who are running their own ranch and processing plant, with a store in Larkspur. They’ve got a range of selections for you to order and have delivered to your door, from smoked bacon to duck confit to the “Full Rack”, which includes 28 pounds of Wagyu beef (yeah, that one will put you back a couple racks—which is $2,000 for you non-poker-playing types). For the full list of choices and to place your order, go here.
A couple 510 tipsters let me know about a new restaurant opening in the former ADDIE’S PIZZA PIE location: NEXT DOOR RESTAURANT. The project is from first-time restaurant owners and husband and wife Henry Alvarez and Dionne Roberts, who are working with chef Sharon Lorraine. Some may remember Lorraine from the Purple Plum in Glenview. (She also cooked at César back in ‘99, and has recently been catering and private cheffing.)
Lorraine filled me in on some details on her comfort food-oriented menu. She will be offering her famous buttermilk fried chicken, plus barbecue ribs, eggplant Parmesan, and dishes with some international influences, like Swiss chard enchiladas, ropa vieja, and Persian chicken wings roasted on kebab skewers. The menu will be vegan- and vegetarian-friendly as well as kid-friendly too (Lorraine said she will be making gluten-free chicken meatballs).
The venue has 83 seats and will start with dinner Tue-Sun and weekend brunch. Look for an opening on May 1st. 3290 Adeline St. at Alcatraz, Berkeley.
A slew of closures have happened in the East Bay, starting with the unfortunate early closure of SCREAM SORBET. Read more in the East Bay Express, and follow Scream on Twitter for any updates. 5030 Telegraph Ave. at 51st St., Oakland.
Berkeleyside notes both BEC’S BAR & BISTRO in Berkeley (2271 Shattuck Ave.) and Oakland’s NOBLE CAFE (100 Grand Avenue, Suite 111) have closed.
There’s a new place for brunch in Sausalito: Joanne Weir and Larry Mindel’s COPITA is now serving brunch every Sunday from 10am-4pm. Options on new executive chef Gonzalo Rivera’s menu include divorced chilaquiles ($11)—a riff on huevos divorciados—and aporreadillo verde, a dish of scrambled eggs, beef, and salsa verde ($12). They’ve also got brunchy drink options, like a michelada and Bloody Marias. Check out the full selection of new choices here. The regular menu will also be available. 739 Bridgeway at Anchor, Sausalito, 415-331-7400.
As reported in tablehopper in October, Marin County has a new place to get gluten-free goodies: FLOUR CRAFT BAKERY. The new spot is opening Tuesday March 12th and will have gluten-free breads, cakes, cupcakes, cookies, and pastries. Owner Heather Hardcastle, who has been selling her granola to local shops your years, aims to prove that gluten-free goods can taste just as good as those with it.
The new location is a 1,200-square-foot space in San Anselmo, and all products will be made on-site. Not only will they serve pastries and other baked goods, but there will also be some savory items for a light lunch, and they’ll be pouring Sightglass Coffee and SkyTea from Oakland. There will be seating indoors and out for those who wish to sit and enjoy their treats. 702 San Anselmo Ave. at San Rafael, San Anselmo, 415-289-2110.
Culinary Agents believes there is a better way to hire in the food and beverage industry than the job board standard. So instead of reinventing the job board, we’ve created the only job search tool specifically designed for F&B that MATCHES qualified candidates with jobs, based on skills and experience. Once you post a job, the system does the first level of applicant filtering, searching the talent database to match candidates to your position.
Restaurants/bars that read tablehopper (yes, you!): You get five free job posts if you create a free profile by Tuesday March 12th, 2013. But you have to tell us tablehopper told you: In the “Where did you learn about Culinary Agents?” section select “other media” and WRITE IN “tablehopper.”
Sign up here. Happy hunting!
tablehopper broke the story last July that Kinson Lau, formerly of Gitane, was opening a bar in SoMa called THE ALCHEMIST. After a series of delays, the new bar (which is up on the second floor) is softly open now, serving some lesser-known but classic cocktails, like the Monkey Gland (gin, orange juice, grenadine, absinthe rinse), and twists on classics, like the Beez Nuts, a twist on the Bees Knees, with gin, chamomile, lemon, and honey. Check out the full drink list here. There will also be a chalkboard special called the “Alchemist’s Tincture,” which will be inspired by a Chinese herbal medicine.
In the future, look for pop-up guest bartenders who will mix things up a bit, and food might be forthcoming too. The look is industrial-meets-Gothic, with a touch of steampunk. There’s room for 70, with a 13-seat bar and lounge areas with tufted couches. They’re open Wed-Mon (closed Tue) from 5pm-2am. 679 3rd St. at Townsend, 415-746-9968.
Good news: THE EAGLE has reopened. New owners Mike Leon and Alex Montiel held their first beer bust this past Sunday! You can read all the details on Grub Street. I was also happy to see on Facebook that Anna Conda (who was very involved in trying to keep the bar under gay ownership) will be relaunching her Charlie Horse drag show (previously at The Cinch) with Mutha Chucka starting on Saturday April 6th. 398 12th St. at Harrison.
Over the weekend, bar manager Joel Teitelbaum announced on Facebook that he is no longer behind the stick at HARRY DENTON’S STARLIGHT ROOM—next stop: Southern Wine & Spirits. Sir Francis Drake Hotel, 21st floor, 450 Powell St. at Sutter, 415-395-8595.
At HOG & ROCKS, bar manager Michael Lazar just launched a new cocktail menu called “Pimp My Old-Fashioned.” The cocktail is more than 200 years old, but now there are some new versions, like the House Rock & Rye, with two different ryes (Wild Turkey and Rittenhouse); rock sugar and a citrus squeeze are added, and it’s finished with vanilla bean and horehound (a member of the mint family, horehound has a bittersweet licorice and root beer-esque flavor). The full menu is available here.
And next Thursday March 14th, HOG & ROCKS is hosting a special night with Japanese whisky ambassador Neyah White (with Suntory). The dinner is priced at $60 per person, and includes a guided spirits tour. Check out the menu here. Call 415-550-8627 for reservations. (A special cocktail list of Japanese whiskys will be available for happy hour—from 5pm-6:30pm—and after the dinner/late night—from 10:30pm-1am as well.)
Hog & Rocks - 3431 19th St. San Francisco - 415-550-8627
This Wednesday March 6th, BAR TARTINE is hosting a Hungarian dinner with wine pairings from Judit and József Bodó of Bott Winery in Tokaj, Hungary—this is their first time in the United States. The menu includes Zsiros Kenyér (bread with lard and onion) with 2011 Bott Határi Hárslevelű; véres hurka (blood sausage) with 2011 Bott Csontos Furmint; pacalpörkölt (tripe and pork knuckle stew) with 2007 J&J Eged-Hegy Kekfrankos; and many more dishes (check out a pic here). The cost will be $87 for wine and family-style food; tax and tip not included. Just make reservations and specify “the Hungarian dinner.”
This week, winemaker Sébastien Riffault of Sancerre will be in the Bay Area. His Les Quarterons is more traditional, but wait until you try his old-vine, slow-fermented wines like Akmeniné and Skeveldra. You can meet him and taste all three of his organic and certified biodynamic wines on Thursday March 7th from 6pm-9pm at Terroir Wine Bar (1116 Folsom St.); Friday March 8th from 5pm-9pm at Ruby Wines (1419 18th St., $10 to taste all three wines); and on Saturday March 9th from 6:30pm-9:30pm at Punchdown (2212 Broadway, Oakland; all three wines available by the glass).
This Friday March 8th, swing by SAN FRANCISCO WINE TRADING COMPANY from 6pm-8pm for the tasting event “Provence Meets Bordeaux.” New arrivals from Domaine du Deffends, Provence, plus some direct-import Bordeaux will be poured, and they’ll be slicing up some serrano ham too. $10 for tastes of 15-plus wines. 250 Taraval St. at Funston.
Did you know ACQUERELLO is hosting a wine dinner with Pietro Ratti of Renato Ratti in Barolo? On Thursday March 14th, you can meet Pietro, whose father, Renato Ratti, is credited with being the first to map the vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco. You’ll have a multicourse dinner with Barolos from the La Morra village. UPDATE: There’s a new date for this dinner in April, too: Thursday April 25th. Reservations can be made by calling 415-567-5432.
Pläj - 333 Fulton St. San Francisco - 415-863-8400
Join authors Jancis Robinson and Linda Murphy at QUINCE on Tuesday March 19th. The pair will be talking about their new book, American Wine, which details the appellations, techniques, and styles that make American wines great. The event runs from 11:30am-2pm and includes a three-course lunch with wine pairings, a reception with the authors, and a copy of the book. Tickets are $95 per person, which also include tax and tip.
Tuesday Mar 19, 2013 11:30am-2pm $95 per person more info
Quince - 470 Pacific Ave. San Francisco - 415-775-8500
Now open in Oakland is LEGIONNAIRE SALOON, which according to its Facebook page is “a neighborhood bar and live performance venue located in the heart of the Oakland arts district with excellent bartenders, exceptional spirits, eight beers on tap, pinball and a stage for as well as a vintage 45 jukebox. Brought to you by Prozack Turner and RaeAnne Turner (formerly of The Layover).” I was never able to get someone to get back to me, so that’s all I’ve got on this spot. You can check out upcoming act listings on the website. Mon 4pm-12am, Tue-Fri 4pm-2am, Sat 6pm-2am. 2272 Telegraph Ave. at 23rd St., Oakland.
Monday Mar 25, 2013 – Tuesday Apr 2, 2013
Get your lamb-shank bones ready, because Passover is coming soon. This year, it begins Monday March 25th and ends Tuesday April 2nd. If you’re not quite prepared to braise a brisket forever in your own oven, here are some places where you can enjoy the pleasures of a Seder and let someone else do the work.
First up, WISE SONS DELI will be doing a dinner and communal Seder the first four nights: March 25th, 26th, 27th, and 28th at 7pm. Unfortunately, the 26th is sold out, but there are still seats available for the other nights. Check out the menu here and reserve your seat here.
In a nod to the many rich food traditions of the Jewish diaspora, check out the Mexican Seder being held at ROSA MEXICANO. There will be tropical charoset, brisket tacos, and red snapper gefilte fish. For more details, contact the restaurant. 30 Mission St. at Steuart, 415-874-4300.
Over in Berkeley, COMAL will also be doing a liberal Mexican-style Seder on March 25th and 26th, with lamb barbacoa, brisket in adobo, and cured salmon. The dinner begins at 6:30pm and the event costs $60 per person including tip but not beverages. Tickets are already sold out for the 26th, but there are still some available for the 25th—don’t miss ‘em!
At PERBACCO, catch the annual collaboration between chef Staffan Terje and Joyce Goldstein, as they cook recipes from her book Cucina Ebraica. The four-course dinner costs $49 per person, not including beverages, tip, and tax. Check out the menu here and make your reservation by calling 415-955-0663.
At DELFINA, you’ll find a variety of traditional dishes served in untraditional ways, like the Stoll family matzo ball soup (with walnuts!), lamb, and brisket. The dishes will be available the whole week of Passover, along with some special kosher wine and beer. Reservations can be made by calling the restaurant: 415-552-4055.
Over in Noe Valley, check out the annual Passover offerings at FIREFLY. You’ll find menu items like housemade gefilte fish, braised brisket with root vegetable tzimmes, and, of course, plenty of matzo. The special menu will be available March 25th-April 2nd. 4288 24th St. at Douglass, 415-821-7652.
If you are preparing a Seder at home and need a little help, head to the ROCKRIDGE MARKET HALL. They’ve got everything you need to prepare a great meal so that you can sit back, relax, and enjoy your four cups of wine. The Pasta Shop has a full lineup of Passover dishes, available in many sizes. Plus, you can order online. You can hit the Marin Sun Farms Butcher Shop for your brisket needs, and of course, they’ve got tons of produce too. 5665 College Ave. at Miles, Oakland, 510-250-6000.
Wednesday Mar 20, 2013 – Sunday Mar 24, 2013
Ready for spring? Catch some of your favorite blooms at the SAN FRANCISCO FLOWER & GARDEN SHOW, which will take at the San Mateo Event Center Wednesday March 20th through Sunday March 24th. The show will feature lots of drool-worthy gardens and landscaping, but what you really don’t want to miss is the Chefs Stage. Lots of local chefs will be in attendance, talking about sustainability, gardening, and using fresh ingredients in cooking. Catch Annie Somerville (Greens), Dennis Lee (Namu Gaji), and Laurence Jossel (Nopa), to name just a few, as they share information about cooking with seasonal ingredients. For a full list of chefs, check here. The event runs from 10am-7pm Wed-Sat and 10am-6pm Sunday. Ticket prices vary, starting at $15 for advance group rates and up to $30 for a pass to all five days; check here for details and to purchase tickets.
To celebrate Women’s History Month and International Women’s Day, chef Jennifer Puccio of San Francisco’s Marlowe and Park Tavern restaurants will team up with chef Ken Frank of the Michelin-starred LA TOQUE AT THE WESTIN VERASA NAPA for a special five-course dinner on Thursday March 7th. On the menu: cauliflower panna cotta, uni, and caviar; venison carpaccio; classic Angus beef tartare, capers, and crispy bone marrow; and “Callie Noir,” a dish made with black truffle, cipolline onions, and crispy Parmesan stuffing. The dinner is $200 per person, with wine pairings included. Reservations are required. 1314 McKinstry St., Napa, 707-257-5157.
The dinner is a kickoff for the Westin’s Somm Sisters Soiree getaway weekend, featuring a collection of events showcasing women in wine, including a grand tasting with 30 female winemakers on Friday March 8th. The tasting event is $50 per person. Details about the entire weekend online.
U2’s own Bono was spotted at Swan Oyster Depot on Friday afternoon, then again at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, according to a Tweet from the restaurant and a tip from a helpful reader. SFoodie nabbed a picture of him at Swan too. What a guy!