This week's tablehopper: love handles.
A closer look at the newly opened Merigan’s Italian combo. Yeah, it’s amazing. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Friday Friday Friday! And there’s nary a cloud in sight. Reason number 6,843 why I live in California. This week was chock-full of reasons why I live here, let me tell you. The private dinner party on Tuesday evening with Dana Cowin and the Food & Wine team at Cotogna made me pinch myself (actually, pinch my love handles) numerous times. The parade of uni on squid ink brioche, the famed ravioli, juicy porchetta, lamb of your dreams, jaw-dropping prime rib roast (the very one you’ll see on the December cover), it all made me say, “Damn, I’m lucky” many times, both in my head and to other guests there. Thanks to all for the amazing night!
Fall was in full effect at a beautiful dinner on Wednesday at Tartine Bakery, cooked with soul by Samin Nosrat, highlighting the recipes in Chad Robertson’s stunning new book, Tartine Book No. 3. Heirloom grains in effect! From sablés made with barley and cheddar cheese, to a chard and sheep’s milk ricotta galette with a kamut-kefir crust, to the satisfying and lightly sweet oat porridge bread…it all made me pinch those love handles again.
So, have you had any white truffles yet? I am so ready. Here’s a cheat sheet I wrote up on 7x7.com, with the restaurants that are serving white truffles right now, and which dishes to order! It’s time for tajarin.
I also have my weekly Tablehopping column ready at the Bay Guardian—you have to read about the buckwheat waffle with salmon roe and crème fraîche at Linea Caffe!
Okay, today’s (late) issue has a review of Betelnut for you, and some 707 news to boot.
Established Restaurant Reviews (it's about time we met...)
Man, that poor BETELNUT has had a tumultuous year, like it wants to get on the cover of the Enquirer or something. After 18 years in business—12 of them with the very talented chef Alex Ong at the helm—the restaurant recently went through some sweeping changes, including a short switch to the Hutong/street food concept. When everyone went bonkers, it hastily flipped back to Betelnut six weeks later. Soon after, chef Ong departed. Oof.
The new chef steadying the boat is Mario Tolentino. He has worked locally with Michael Mina and Laurent Manrique, and was the chef at Juliet Supper Club in New York, focused on international street food. Some may recognize him from his victorious 2010 appearance on the Food Network’s Chopped. While he may not have Ong’s sensei-like knowledge of Malaysian cooking, Tolentino has very good technique, creativity with ingredients, and definitely has a passion that can bring Betelnut into its next era. He’s keeping the focus on Southeast Asia but is adding touches of refinement and lightening things up.
Tolentino knows the loyal Betelnut audience wants their goddamn Szechuan green beans and Cecilia’s minced chicken lettuce cups, goddamn it, so you’ll find those in the new Classics section on the menu. Goddamn. But let’s focus on the new dishes, shall we? The Snacks section of the menu is full of many of my new faves, including the deeply flavorful char siu pork spring rolls ($10.75), a must-order. A lot of work goes into these bad boys: The kitchen marinates boneless pork butt for 24 hours in 12 ingredients, and then cooks it for 50 minutes, constantly basting the pork to create a candy-like exterior, and then the meat gets all chopped up. Some rice vermicelli noodles take a dunk in the drippings, and join some wood ear mushrooms, hon shimeji, Thai basil, and cilantro for the filling. You wrap that fried little number in some lettuce, dunk it into the housemade Malaysian-style peanut sauce (which features a hit of tamarind), and you now have a new thing to obsess over on the menu. Seriously.
The green curry shrimp and sausage corn dogs ($4.95 each) are fricking awesome; what a perfect bar snack. Get ‘em. There are damn tasty sliders on the menu ($10.88 for two), including one version with coconut-curry braised lamb belly that the kitchen painstakingly separates from the fat, chops up, and serves on silver dollar buns with pickled cabbage. Juicy and dirty, in just the right way. Another slider special featured Issan pork belly with jasmine rice, lemongrass, ginger, Kaffir lime, spicy pickled cabbage, and Szechuan mustard. Flavor fireworks. Don’t make me choose which one I liked best.
While the chicken wings ($9.88) are an inherited classic on the menu, these grilled (not fried, which I think they should note on the menu), meaty wings are superlative. They’re brined for 24 hours, then marinated, and made Pok Pok style (cooked, dressed in sauce, then grilled, then sauced and grilled again). Lather. Rinse. Repeat. You get a pile of them, thank God, because you will want to eat them like you’re the Cookie Monster (me want wings!). They’re so savory that you almost don’t even need the side sambal and Sriracha sauces (unless you want extra fi-yah, of course).
Some of the more refined dishes on the menu include the Japanese hamachi sashimi ($13.88), thinly sliced onto an avocado purée, with sliced lychee, pickled Thai chile (the pickling keeps the heat in check), plus a bass note from the fermented black garlic oil and texture from the puffed salmon skin. It’s a fantastic dish, one you could expect to find on a finer dining menu.
The beet salad ($9.88) is also contemporary and a bit pinkie-up: Gorgeous baby red and golden roasted beets are paired with fresh hearts of palm, upland cress, and served on miso dressing with a cardamom crumble (Tolentino toasts coriander, and then adds Korean chile flakes, cinnamon, salt, sugar, and butter). It’s brill. (I had it twice in my three visits.)
While the sashimi and beets appear more polished, Tolentino gets playful with the lemongrass pork ($18.88). The pork is marinated for two days, and then hickory-smoked for 14 hours, and then handpicked and served like fajitas on an iron skillet, with sides like Asian-style guacamole with sliced radish and pickled Thai chiles, green curry Brentwood corn with confit shallots, and spicy pickled cabbage with lime. Great sides. I laughed when I saw the corn tortillas in the Asian steamer—it’s like eating at a Mexican restaurant in Malaysia. My table demolished this dish. Family-style dining at its best.
The green papaya salad ($9.95) tastes fresh and balanced, but is quite a bit more garlicky than I remember (just take note of this in case you’re on a date, which a lot of the people in the restaurant are).
The menu also dips its toe into some serious Szechuan waters with the new five-chile chicken ($17.88), a basketful of tender chicken fried in cornstarch and rice flour so it’s not too heavily battered, with sinus-clearing and lip-numbing chiles (including Fresno and Szechuan peppercorn). Only a masochist will eat the dried chiles—they use some hot ones here, beware. Ask me how I know….
While Tolentino and his kitchen crew are ramping up, not all dishes are successful (to be expected). The team is trying to get some dumplings back on the menu, and the brand-new ones we tried one night definitely needed more R&D. I also remember loving the noodle dishes more in the past. While the five-spice wild boar noodles ($13.75) are fine, it’s hard to wipe the M.Y. China version with the handmade scissor-cut noodles out of my mind as my benchmark.
Desserts have gotten really good, from the pineapple “snow” ($8.88) with young coconut gelée, lychee, chia seed syrup, and micro basil, to the black sesame ice cream ($8.88) with red miso caramel and crushed kaffir lime peanut brittle.
Betelnut always works for a bunch of occasions, from catching up with a friend over a couple of drinks (try the new basil gimlet and the rye cocktail) and some small plates, to a full-on group dinner with friends with various likes and dietary needs (there’s a gluten-free menu for those who need it). The crowd is always eclectic, spanning all age groups and ethnicities. The attentive service can border on the utterly amazing—our server one night knew every dish with such detail, I was floored, although another server pulled a few looooong disappearances on us when it was time to go.
I do wish they would dim the lights. The booths in the back with the overhead lights make me feel like it’s an inquisition in a Malaysian airport (I swear, the black tar in my suitcase wasn’t mine!), and the front room flanking the kitchen is just flooded with light. My dining cohort doesn’t need to inspect my pores, thanks. The wine list could also stand to have some unique and esoteric selections on there (and how about a rosé?) for those of us who want to explore—I think it would complement the direction the kitchen is going nicely.
Betelnut - 2030 Union St. San Francisco - 415-929-8855
Wine Country Buzz (it’s what happens there)
Iconic Kenwood Restaurant Reopening with SF Chef
By 707 correspondent Heather Irwin. Sign up for the BiteClub Newsletter.
It’s an almost uncomfortable moment when chef Max Schacher, the longtime toque of the iconic KENWOOD RESTAURANT, lifts a glass to the new owners and young chef taking over his restaurant. “Santé!” we say, clinking wineglasses, but Schacher quickly disavows me of any feelings that the moment is bittersweet. “I think it’s great!” he says of new owner Bill Foss (of Fish in Sausalito, sustainable seafood company TwoXSea, and the recently opened Canetti’s in Forestville) and well-known Bay Area chef Anthony Paone (20 Spot, Sea Salt, Lot 7).
And it’s not hard to see why.
The entire focus for the new venture is an ode to Valley of the Moon’s colorful history, from the indigenous Wappo tribe to the Spanish settlers, and from Buena Vista Winery founder Agoston Haraszthy de Mokesa to the restaurant’s former life as Bunny’s Fried Chicken. Both Foss and Paone have painstakingly researched everything about the area, incorporating foraged herbs, a Hungarian-inspired beef stew, trout from Foss’ McFarland Springs trout farm, local rabbit sausage, and “Bunny Wings” (fried rabbit forelegs)—a nod to Bunny’s on their proposed opening menu.
BiteClub got a first look at several dishes on a preopening night supper, and they’re stunners—even in previews.
Shying away from now-meaningless descriptions like “farm to table,” they’re simply calling the food “Sonoma cuisine.” Favorites include duck and hominy soup with a poached duck egg; a refined yet earthy rabbit sausage using both meat and offal; a take on cioppino that will ruin you for any other; fingerling potatoes with trout roe and sour cream; and pink trout with cornbread stuffing, which is destined to be a signature dish. Don’t get too attached to anything, however, since Paone is dedicated to changing things up frequently.
Of course, regulars will notice plenty of changes, including an updated interior, a bocce court, and an outdoor pond, which now sits where the giant metal wings once hovered outside. Still around, however, is the whimsical animals-in-chef-hats frieze that once graced the historic Poodle Dog restaurant in San Francisco.
The restaurant is in soft opening this week, with a grand opening in the coming weeks. 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood.