This week’s tablehopper: back to life, back to reality. (free)

what’s cookin’

Hi, friends. Yup, I’m running a day late and a dollar short, but I’m finally back in your inbox after a much-needed break in Lake Tahoe at my family’s cabin in Tahoma, where I have been going almost every summer of my entire blessed life. It was a restful and calming vacation, and although it rained the first week I was up there (I’m talking total downpours), it was the perfect excuse to sleep in and binge some series (from Lena Dunham’s Too Much to a docuseries on Alexander the Great with hot, scruffy men on Netflix, to Matthew Weiner’s The Romanoffs, to rewatching both volumes of Kill Bill with sis); Fortuna was thrilled to have so much lap time and sleeping in.

The sun finally emerged, and I got to get back in the saddle of my vintage Bertin 10 speed and ride to the beach (it was my Mom’s bike in the ’70s, and my Dad refurbished it for me—it’s such a sweet whip, for many reasons), catch up on swimming, sunbathing, grill summer vegetables, and reading (I devoured Eve Babitz’s spicy Eve’s Hollywood and I’m still in the depths of Keith McNally’s memoir, I Regret Almost Everything, which is currently my favorite book title). 

I spotted a mama bear with her pair of frisky cubs a couple times on my evening bike rides home, and loved watching my favorite lake bird, the common mergancer, dive for dinner when the lake would calm down after the boats returned to their docks. I was definitely feeling fall start to creep up there (this recipe for corn, tomato, and basil chowder was the perfect shoulder season dinner), but it’s always good to return to San Francisco’s best weather: I plan to be ready for Rocktober.

I also need to go dancing and shake my shit. To thank all of you badass annual supporting subscribers, whose subscriptions help me more than you know and in so many ways...

I’m super excited to be giving away one pair of GA two-day passes to the Portola Music Festival next weekend (Sept. 20–21)! Check out my writeup below in the socialite for details on how to enter to win. Woohoo! I’m looking forward to dancing myself clean with LCD Soundsystem, of course, and finally experiencing Despacio will be this music lover’s dream come true. The weather is looking fantastic—let’s hear it for mid-70s. Don’t touch that dial.

Thanks for being patient with my radio silence over here and on social media for the past few weeks—I needed some time to decompress from my current shituation that I have unfortunately returned home to. Like I said in my last update, I’m healthy, I’m ok—I just have to deal with some shizz that is going to have me a bit preoccupied for the next month or so. Thanks for bearing with me—I gotta pump the brakes on my over-achiever M.O.

It’s also tough timing since my fabulous summer intern, Olivia Casellini, has headed back to school and everything is back on my plate. It was wonderful to have her many contributions to this weekly newsletter, her additional eyes on the City with me, and her help with research (and photo resizing and captioning, so tedious)—thank you for all your time and stellar work and interest in storytelling, Olivia! I’m missing you already.

I can’t believe how much news hit while I was on my break. (Like, OMG, chill out and drink some rosé, jeezus.) In today’s column, I did my best to catch you up on some stories you may have missed, and share some news I haven’t seen reported elsewhere. I’m going to need a little more time to write about the return of Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak to the Westin St. Francis, and the next iteration of Akiko’s on Bush Street, plus a few other stories, like The Hall in the Mission. 

I broke the news a few weeks ago that the Cal-Italian Bosco is opening in the former Bellota in SoMa, and it’s open as of tonight! I didn’t have enough time to get through the dense press release to share details today, so that’s also coming next week. (You can look at the menu online now, and the Spaghetti Western cocktail with rye, pickled apple brine, honey, lemon, and beer will be the first thing I order off the cocktail list.) 

Also opening this week is La Cigale, the live-fire, Southern French restaurant from the talented Joseph Madigow and Daisy Linden on Chenery in Glen Park (I wrote about it here in November, and the SF Chronicle just ran this recent piece about it). Take a peek at the $140 tasting menu (the price is all-inclusive, no tipping!). No reservations either, but click here for the waitlist Wed–Sat 6pm–10pm.

At the end of this week, I’m going to attend a preview of the new Ama and Ama Social Club at the Transamerica Pyramid from chef Bradley Kilgore, so expect a project recap next week as well. Whew. So much going on.

I had a stunningly delicious meal at The Happy Crane before leaving town, and I can’t wait to write about the beef shin and artichoke, the golden coin, and the succulent quail. Get on the notify list for a reservation, and do the “Happy as a Crane” tasting menu. This Modern Chinese restaurant is going to be on everyone’s hit list, it’s a smashing addition to SF’s dining scene. More soon!

Happy Anniversary to the Bermejo family and team on Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant’s 60th birthday! I was sorry to be out of town for the celebration, which looked like one for the books. ¡Arriba, abajo, al centro, pa’ dentro!

But the most exciting birthday happening is my beloved sister Erica’s 50th birthday! Shoutout to all my Virgos! We are celebrating in high sissy style, with a jaunt to Healdsburg for dinner at the sublime Single Thread, one of my favorite restaurants in the world, and an overnight stay at Harmon Guest House, which thankfully has a pool we can jump into, again and again. #therewillbeChampagne

Here’s to the ups of life, which help get you through the downs. (And then there’s Champagne, which helps with both.) 🥂

Cheers, darlings.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

An Early Visit to Sōhn in Dogpatch, a Celebration of Korean American Cuisine, Culture, and Community

Before leaving town, I hopped by the pre-opening media party for Sōhn in the former Daily Driver space in Dogpatch, which I was first to write about back in July. Owner-operator and chef Deuki Hong (The Sunday Family Hospitality Group, which includes Sunday Bakeshop and the “new” Neighbor Bakehouse, and last year’s acclaimed cookbook, Koreaworld) and managing partner Janet Lee (The Sunday Family Hospitality Group) are behind this visionary this Korean American café, which also felt like a gallery with a museum shop. I look forward to seeing the programming evolve.

The former industrial location now feels airy and chic and calming, with a natural-modern style from Cathie Hong Interiors. I really dug the upstairs corner lounge area with such fun and funky ’70s-inspired furnishings, and you’ll see all kinds of work on the walls from Korean American artists. The downstairs retail shop (Maum Store) showcases handcrafted Korean and Korean American goods from over 30 makers, including ceramics, personal care items, and stationery.

Open Wed–Sun 10am–3pm (kitchen open until 2:30pm). 2535 3rd St. at 22nd St.

Details on RT Bistro, the Third Concept from the Rich Table and RT Rotisserie Team

Back in April, I ran a scoop that the Rich Table team had a project brewing in a nearby space (the former Otoro Sushi), and now they’ve released some details on what is going to be their third concept: RT Bistro. Chef-owners Evan and Sarah Rich are partnering with longtime GM Jonny Gilbert (whom they met while at Bouley in New York) on this neighborhood restaurant, which will be a relaxed “quintessential San Francisco bistro” with a touch of sophistication. Dexter Fernandez, Rich Table’s sous chef for more than four years, will be the chef de cuisine.

New Projects at the Ferry Building

Sorrel chef Alex Hong and director of operations Joel Wilkerson—who are behind the upcoming Arquet in the former Slanted Door location at the Ferry Building—have launched Parachute Bakery with co-owner and executive pastry chef Nasir Armar, giving SF something new to line up for. (It just opened last week, on September 4th.)

Chennai-born Amar (Sorrel, Saison)—whose father owned a bakery—is crafting exquisite-looking viennoiseries, and both classic and playful creations, like a version of the croissant cube filled with fresh passionfruit and white chocolate vanilla crémeux, and a spin on pain suisse with garlic béchamel, roasted oyster mushrooms, goat cheese, and Sungold tomatoes (OMG, the cross-lamination really looks next-level). Their classic croissant uses French cultured butter, and since everything is proofed, baked, and served in real time, with multiple bakes throughout the day, you don’t have to get there at the crack of dawn to get a fresh one, although they may run out since the word on these beauties is spreading quickly (they sold out of everything in a couple hours last week).

Additional items include pan au chocolat, a brown butter spiced bun, black sesame and yuzu cookies, pecan financiers (made with malt, English toffee, and candied pecans), and brown butter and black Okinawa sugar canelés. You’ll find espresso and coffee drinks (using local Linea beans), and masala chai brewed in a traditional copper kettle. Cool off with an iced yuzu matcha lemonade, strawberry-elderflower and cream soda, a banana and salted cream Einspänner (with house cold brew instead of espresso), and smoothies and seasonal pressed juices. Check out the retail items, like cookie butters, bonbons, and more. Open Wed–Sun 8am–4pm. 1 Ferry Building, Suite 5.

When the Boulettes Larder space suddenly became available, Kaïs Bouzidi of the nearby Bon Délire jumped to it and is going to be opening Hayati, meaning “my love” in Arabic. Bouzidi (who is also behind Sens and Barcha) was born to a French mother and Tunisian father, and will be opening the full-service Mediterranean restaurant next summer. Suite 48.

No, You Didn’t Just Drop Acid: SF’s Most Colorful Restaurant Is Back with a New Menu Format and Palette

Shuggie’s is back after closing for their revamp and reconcepting into an “immersive climate-positive dinner club.” Co-owners Kayla Abe and chef David Murphy have leveled up with this next iteration, offering a whole new menu of dishes made with rescued ingredients, creative upcycling, and sustainable proteins, like The Fish Stick 2.0, which uses offcuts of white fish from local fishmongers. 

Take a look at the new menu and format below, and if you’re missing their trash pies, you can enjoy them on Sundays, with their pizza-only menu that night.

They also added some interactive desserts presented tableside, and expanded their cocktail program, adding a beet gin fizz made from late-harvest beets and more.

The front yellow room is now a 1970’s orange, with a six-foot naked lady concrete fountain, wraparound glitter banquette seating, and a new mural by Abe (the restaurant exterior also has a new mural, while the fab green room is thankfully and mostly the same). There is also a small stage in the orange room that will host live jazz performances (in partnership with Jazz In the Neighborhood) on Tuesdays and Sundays. Book a table with friends and have a fun night out with some razzle-dazzle! Open Tue–Sun 5pm–10pm. 3349 23rd St.

The Return of Sam Wo Is the Comeback Story the Historic Restaurant Deserved, and Aslam’s Rasoi Is Also Pulling a Lazarus Move

The return of Sam Wo, one of San Francisco’s oldest restaurants in Chinatown (try 116 years!) is the happy ending I was hoping for: the SF Chronicle reports a group of restaurateurs and investors will be resurrecting the iconic restaurant, and the new chef is learning the recipes and techniques from former chef and owner David Ho, who took over from his grandfather in 1986, and recently retired: “New head chef Zhouxi Quan, who comes from the Kitchen in Millbrae, has been training with a meticulous Ho for two weeks, learning how to make Sam Wo’s famous rice rolls from scratch and other dishes.”

New dim sum dishes will be added, and they’re going to run later hours on the weekend, which is what it was known for by many night owls. The lease has been extended for two years, and there’s also discussion of expanding with more locations in the Bay Area. I can’t wait to get another jar of Sam Wo’s hot mustard back in my fridge, and alongside their char siu rice noodle roll. Let’s hear it for people who care about the legacy of SF’s longtime restaurants. Whew. The whole thing makes me smile. Open Tue–Thu 11am–9pm and Fri–Sat 11am–11pm. 713 Clay St.

Another unexpected resuscitation: Aslam’s Rasoi, which closed in July, is back and staying put on Valencia! Their landlord has agreed to keep their rent the same for the next couple of years, with no increase, which gives them the opportunity to keep their doors open. So, now, they really need you to come in, and while you’re at it, bring new people to this restaurant that just celebrated 19 years. They are also now BYOB! Cheers! 1037 Valencia St.

A Friulian Trattoria Is Coming to Alamo Square Soon

I was thrilled to read about a Friulian trattoria and wine bar, Polenta, is coming to the former Alamo Square Seafood Grill. SFist reported owner Giulio de Monte Gaspardo, a former sommelier at Bottega in Yountville, “will showcase the German and Eastern European influences on Friulian cuisine, including goulash and the namesake polenta” and, of course, Friulian wines. Expect a fall opening. 803 Fillmore St. at Grove.

Expansions Around Town

Just days after taking my cousin and her son for their first time to Hon’s Wun-Tun House in Chinatown (since 1972!), I noticed an ABC application for a new location in the Outer Sunset. Good for them. What Now SF spoke to the company’s president, who said they’re targeting October 1st for the opening. 1830 Irving St.

While I was away, a couple eagle-eyed subscribers sent me the news that the Handroll Project in the Mission now had signage that said Hamburger Project (owner Tan Truong opened the first Hamburger Project in Nopa with former Ju-Ni partner chef Geoffrey Lee, before Lee left the group after a dustup with an influencer). Expect the same menu of their smash burgers, fries, and milkshakes. And you gotta read this piece about the cursed Mission corner location that is totally haunted. 598 Guerrero St. at 18th St.

Another star reader sent me pics of a second location of Poesia Café, coming to the Montgomery Bart stop, one level down at One Post Plaza this fall. Expect chef and co-founder Giovanni Liguoro’s fantastic cornetti, focaccia, and baked goods, plus panini and espresso drinks. 1 Post St. at Montgomery.

Temporary Shutdowns and Moves and Permanent Closures

What a bummer, chef-owner-taquero Dominic Prado has announced it was the last dance for his Tacos El Último Baile stand at Saluhall, which just got started two months ago. 945 Market St. at 6th St.

After a year of business on Fillmore, I’m sorry to see chef-owner Jinwoong Lim of Aji Kiji is taking their fabulous takeout sushi to downtown (359 Kearny Street), and will be closing their 1552 Fillmore Street shop (the former Avery) when they open their new location at the end of October. [Via Eater SF]

Nearby: in case you were worried about Daeho Japantown’s sudden closure a few days ago, it just reopened after some unexpected maintenance for a water leak. 

Miette is closing its Hayes Valley location on September 14th, after 20 years (it’s hard to imagine the neighborhood without Meg Ray’s colorful shop), but the good news is Miette is opening a new flagship location in Pacific Heights, just across from the Clay Theatre on Thursday September 25th. You can pick up cakes baked to order (have you seen their princess cake?), seasonal macarons, shortbread cookies, and over 100 bins of Swedish Pick-n-Mix. 2252 Fillmore St. [Via KRON4]

The SF Business Times reported FiDi’s Tlaloc Sabor Mexicano has suddenly closed after 25 years of feeding local workers, due to a rent hike. Chef-owner Jorge Saldaña is planning to relocate just blocks away and to add a food truck, and just launched a GoFundMe to bridge the gap they need in funding. Let’s help bring this family-owned business into its next chapter. 525 Commercial St. 

Hoodline shares Fat Cat Wine Club from Jessica Bell is popping up in the temporarily closed Fisch & Flore space until the end of the year. Swing by for “glasses of wine, bottled beer, and light bites” Thursday to Sunday from 5pm–11pm. 2298 Market St.

Early to Rise Expands Service to Seven Days a Week

A fun little tidbit: Early to Rise—one of our city’s very best breakfast spots—is now open seven days a week! Weekday guests can enjoy a new Blue Plate Special (choose between eggs Benedict or blueberry-ricotta pancakes for breakfast, with a sugar-rolled donut on the side), and either their ETRBLT or Little Gems and summer squash salad for lunch, served with the soup of the day. (Don’t forget to bring home some of their stellar housemade bacon and Canadian bacon, which I wrote about here, and subscribers get a special gift!) Hours are now Mon–Fri 8am–1:30pm and Sat–Sun 8am–2:30pm. 1801 McAllister St. at Baker.

the socialite

Giveaway for Annual Supporting Subscribers: Win a Pair of Passes to Portola Music Festival Next Weekend (and Here’s What to Eat So You Can Keep Dancing)

I could not be more fired up to have a stacked weekend of badass music to dance to with friends for the fourth year of the Portola Music Festival at Pier 80 on September 20th–21st. A few months ago, I wrote about the lineup, so let me repost that here: I’m thrilled to see LCD Soundsystem listed as a headliner, along with so many of my early dance and rave faves, like Underworld, Moby (live!), Tiga, The Rapture, The Prodigy, and many other fun acts, including a DJ set from Chemical Brothers, plus Horse Meat Disco, 2MANYDJS B2B Erol Alkan, Neil Frances, and Bob Moses. 

But the thing I’m most excited about is that for the first time ever, the DESPACIO soundsystem is (finally) coming to SF! It’s a high-powered (almost 50,000 watts!), immersive, enclosed, hi-fi sound system (thanks McIntosh) and audio experience designed by James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem, David and Stephen Dewaele of 2ManyDJs and Soulwax, and sound engineer John Klett. Murphy and the Dewaele brothers will be spinning vinyl inside the Despacio tent all weekend long and it will be hard to drag me away. There’s a particular sound and pace of the music they play on the DESPACIO system (its name is a clue)—check out one of the many playlists to get a sense of the vibe.

Not only will you be doing a lot of dancing, but you will also be doing a lot of walking, which means you gotta fuel up on some vittles at some point! I spoke with Festival Food & Beverage Director Adrian Garcia to get a preview about what’s going to be available to eat and snack on at Portola, and he shared that it’s very important to him to reflect SF Bay Area taste and style with mostly local vendors.

You’ll see a bunch of noodles: I’m stoked to see Liang’s Village Taiwanese Eats from Cupertino will be there with their famed hand-pulled noodles, plus a super-spicy version, and vegan option. MOMO Noodle (at Saluhall and their Mission Bay pod) will be serving their dry-style spicy Sichuan noodles (and psst, it also looks like they’re moving to 455 Market Street to open MOMO Bar), and here’s hoping Noodle Boys bring their pork belly garlic noodles.

Garcia noted how SF is big on ramen, which will be tasty and relatively easy to eat when you’re partying and you need some sustenance: enjoy a bowl from SF’s Ramenwell, or Oakland’s NōKA Ramen (they’re serving their classic tonkatsu, black garlic, spicy miso, chicken karaage, and shrimp tempura).

Smish Smash (of smash burger fame, currently popping up at Saluhall) will be serving their Cheeseboiga, Reggie Miller, veggie burgers, and curly fries, and it looks like the Me So Hungry Too truck (which has new owners) also serves smash burgers, as well as sliders, fries, and vegan options. If your stomach can handle the heat, there’s Dave’s Hot Chicken from LA. 

There will be a number of Vietnamese vendors: Bodega SF, Refugee and Roots Asian Kitchen, and the longtime Saigon Sandwich on Larkin Street will be serving their bánh mì for their first time at the festival. I’m curious to see how their pricing will be—I’d wager they will be one of the most affordable/moderately priced options there. (I also remember seeing $14 mint tea in 2023, so plan accordingly.)

I’m curious about San Jose’s Bun Me Up, who will be offering a variety of their bao sandwiches, including shoyu pork belly (thin cut), braised pork belly (thick cut), and Daddy’s beef ribeye bun (oh yeah), plus soy garlic chicken buns, or fried vegan tofu buns. Falafel lovers will be happy to know Inner Sunset’s Sunrise Deli will be there.

There will be cocktails from The Felix, and I hear there’s another speakeasy this year you need to discover. Bar Gemini will be providing some natty wines.

For VIP folks, chef Kasem “Pop” Saengsawang of Farmhouse Kitchen Thai is teaming up with his NōKA Ramen for a collab called Farmhouse World Pop-Up. It’s a seated experience (servers will take your order) and you can watch the Pier Stage while you eat. They’re taking reservations, so if you see a gap on the musical lineup and you want to reserve a table with your friends and take a load off your feet, you can do that. You can also just walk in, and there’s a prix-fixe to-go option while supplies last (the burger set is $65). There are cocktails in this VIP area as well.

The Pokémon Bowl Set comes with rich tonkotsu broth, pork belly, soft egg, served with shishito peppers, larb corn, and red bean mochi. There’s a Power Ranger Smash (½ lb. wagyu patty layered with Thai holy basil–garlic–chili sauce, chashu pork belly, aioli, arugula, crispy leeks, cheddar, fried egg), and truffle fries, served with shishito peppers, larb corn, and red bean mochi. Take a look at their Insta post for more preview pics!

One more note: I have a good friend who can no longer make it to Portola, and he’s selling two 2-day VIP passes at face value, for $644 and $678 respectively. Email me if you’d like to be connected and I will forward your email to him. 🕺