Dec 11, 2025 23 min read

This week’s tablehopper: holiday buffet. (free)

This week’s tablehopper: holiday buffet. (free)
Table of Contents

what’s cookin’

Kristi Yamaguchi was the emcee for the Palace Hotel’s 150th anniversary and tree-lighting ceremony in the grand Garden Court on December 5th. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Kristi Yamaguchi was the emcee for the Palace Hotel’s 150th anniversary and tree-lighting ceremony in the grand Garden Court on December 5th. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Ho ho ho! I started my annual transformation into Champers the elf last Thursday at Arlequin’s holiday Champagne tasting, what a blast that was. Pop! After the event, this tipsy lady was grateful to be able to slide into a late table at Dingles (read my preview here) for their life-saving and crazy-delicious cheeseburger (it’s rapidly becoming a favorite).

I spent most of my weekend getting my holiday dĂ©cor up, and right on cue, my sister, AKA Biscuit the elf, dropped off a gorgeous wreath from Sloat Garden Center. I also picked up my holiday panettone from Loison at Pasta Supply Co—read more in my mega panettone roundup below. So, yeah, I’m now locked into holiday mode. I’m determined to end this dumpster fire of a year on a high note. Let’s do this thing! 

Today’s column is totally packed (sorry!) with stories about where to go for holiday meals, from classic SF spots for holiday lunches, to Christmas Eve and Day options, and Hanukkah dishes and menus.

Next week, I’ll be sharing where to go for holiday cocktails. (We need to dial up the merry, people.) In the meantime, you can look at my past articles of festive places from last year (and the year before), and I imagine most of them are still in effect! Just check before heading over.

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Ho ho uh oh! You’re reading the free version of the tablehopper newsletter, so you get this a day later, and you won’t be able to access all the holiday stories and tips and links (although I’m still sharing a lot with you today 🥂). Become a supporting subscriber and enjoy the full holiday buffet!

In today’s column, since it’s peak holiday party time, I included a piece on what to bring to a holiday gathering (from savory treats to sweets to beverages), which should come in handy if you’re the one who’s hosting. (Or, you can just enjoy the goodies at home alone in bed.) I was hoping to share my local gift guide, but I ran out of time and space, so that’s coming next week as well—I needed a moment to write this remembrance below.

On Friday evening, I was getting ready to head out the door to the 150th anniversary celebration of the Palace Hotel, when I saw the heartbreaking news in a post from Gayle Pirie that my literary agent, Carole Bidnick, had passed. I didn’t know she was sick, so it was a shock. Carole was someone who liked to be stealth and operate in the shadows, so I shouldn’t be that surprised I didn’t know (she never wanted me to give out her contact info without checking with her first, or to even tell people she was a literary agent), and she had very little online presence (although she did try Instagram for about a year!).

Back in 2007, I was invited by publicist (and my culinary fairy godmother) Roberta Klugman to a cookbook launch luncheon at Campton Place. During the reception, after I found out Carole was the author’s agent, I made sure to stay close so I could sit next to her at lunch. I told Carole all about tablehopper, and said I had a concept and unique angle for a restaurant guidebook that I had been thinking about. She slipped me her card and said we’d discuss it later so no one could hear my idea. Such a ninja.

With Carole at my book launch luncheon at Perbacco in 2010. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Three years later with Carole at my book luncheon at Perbacco in 2010. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

After a couple follow-up meetings over wine and dosas, I was beyond thrilled when she said she wanted to represent me as my agent and would help me develop and pitch my book proposal. Whoooo, I had an agent! (A rare bird out here.) And not just any agent—Carole came out of the New York publishing world, and successfully navigated decades of changes in the publishing industry. She was very passionate about and rolled deep in our Bay Area restaurant world, with many chefs in her roster.

I remember her pushing me to get the proposal done: “Marciaaaa, you don’t want anyone to steal your idea!” I assured her no one could write the book the way I would, but I got it done. I will never forget when she called to tell me Ten Speed Press made an offer to publish my book (“Honeyyyy, they said yes! It’s a go!”) in her forevah New Yawker accent—I guess it was fitting I was in Bloomingdale’s doing some holiday shopping at that moment.

Signing books at my book release party at Orson, with my incredible editorial assistant Daisy Chow, Carole proudly looking on, and my Mom having a good time. Photo: Andrea Scher.
Signing books at my book release party at Orson, with my incredible editorial assistant Daisy Chow, Carole proudly looking on, and my Mom having a good time. Photo: Andrea Scher.

It was a fast-and-furious timeline to get my book written and edited and designed and shot and printed (shout-out to editor Melissa Moore!). In March 2010, The Tablehopper’s Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco: Find the Right Spot for Every Occasion was released with a bang: I got to throw the best book launch party at Elizabeth Falkner’s Orson restaurant in SoMa and kick off my local book tour. I was so fired up to talk about SF restaurants everywhere I went.

My book on display at Read Booksellers in Danville in 2010. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
My book on display at Read Booksellers in Danville in 2010. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Carole was more than my agent—she was also the Jewish auntie we all want and need. She would check in on me, always asking about my dating life and how things were going with work, and I was even invited to come over for brisket and egg noodles once (she preferred dining out over cooking—we shared many great meals over the years).

Carole was so excited when I won the Time Out writing contest and got to live and work in New York for six months. What a treat it was to see her there in her element when she happened to be in town on a quick trip—we had an early meal at Minetta Tavern, where I got to listen to her New York stories over a burger, and she showed me her old apartment building that was nearby.

At Minetta Tavern in New York, 2016. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
At Minetta Tavern in New York, 2016. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

It was a truly a dream come true for this childhood bookworm and English major to be able to write a book in my voice and style, and work with such an esteemed local publisher. Carole would tell me, “Now, this one may not make us a lot of money, but I know you have more than one book in you!” She’s right, but now she’s gone. Sigh.

These kinds of sudden departures really make you look at your life, and the relationships you have, and how you tend to them, or not. You look through your last texts with someone, your emails, voicemails, pictures…I hate feeling regret that I didn’t see her very much during and after that damn pandemic. The past five years have been such a blur. All you can do is learn from it.

Still, I’m so glad I got to squeeze her on the patio at Foreign Cinema when they hosted that rollicking Jeremiah Tower dinner for their 24th anniversary in 2023. I was mingling on the patio, and suddenly there was someone tapping me on the shoulder—I turned to find her shyly smiling in her charming way, knowing I’d be surprised to see her. Biddie! (Carole wasn’t coming into the City very much, and now I know why.) She seemed more frail and delicate, but then again, she always cut such a wisp of a figure.

A surprise reunion on the patio at Foreign Cinema in 2023. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
A surprise reunion on the patio at Foreign Cinema in 2023. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

I’m grateful for that moment, and forever thankful she took a chance on me 20 years ago. She saw me and my desire, and believed in me as a writer with an idea. She did that for many of us in our local culinary world, guiding us to help fulfill our book dreams and tell our stories. She skillfully managed the entire process like the boss she was—from the proposal to pitching to contract negotiating to publishing to promoting—while humbly staying on the periphery and out of the spotlight. What a mensch.

Lunch with Carole at Daughter’s Diner during the pandemic (2021). Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Lunch with Carole at Daughter’s Diner during the pandemic (2021). Photo: © tablehopper.com.

For many years, every December, I would receive a holiday card noting that she made a donation to the Alameda Food Bank on my behalf. I loved that. I guess now it’s my turn to make a donation in her name—feel free to join me. She’d have a laugh if I did it with one of her nicknames she shared with me one day: telephone telegraph telebidnick schmidnick! Funny lady. Dear Biddie.

Sending hugs and condolences to everyone who knew her and worked with her and loved her—I know her memory will be a blessing for so many people.

And, hey, go call someone you haven’t reached out to for a while. 

Yours,
~Marcia


the chatterbox

Marcella Foti and Fabio Brunocilla making pizza at the Italian Consulate in SF. Photo courtesy of Marcella Foti.
Marcella Foti and Fabio Brunocilla making pizza at the Italian Consulate in SF. Photo courtesy of Marcella Foti.

A Calabrese Couple Is Opening Bruno’s Italian Taste in SoMa, a Casual, All-Day Concept That Will Celebrate Authentic Italian Cuisine, Ingredients, and Traditions

When I figured out that a project coming to SoMa is from two Southern Italians from my Dad’s hometown of Cosenza in Calabria, I couldn’t wait to connect with them and hear more. Opening in early 2026 (targeting January or February) will be Bruno’s Italian Taste from Fabio Brunocilla and Marcella Foti in the former Atlas Tap Room on Mission Street, right by Luke’s Lobster. 

The duo first came to San Francisco during their honeymoon in 2014, and loved the City so much that they started visiting every year. Through a cousin, they were connected to fellow Calabrese Maurizio Florese of Mona Lisa restaurant in North Beach (which sadly and recently closed after 50 years). When the couple amazingly won the green card lottery four years ago (fate is wild like that), they stayed with Maurizio for the first month and worked at Mona Lisa while getting settled and job hunting.

Marcella actually works in medical labs as a histotechnologist, and is currently employed at Stanford, but is helping with the business organization and providing social media and culinary support. In Italy, Fabio previously worked in an office, but when that job ended, he shifted to the culinary world. He started taking pastry night classes and was making cakes for friends and family—as word spread, he launched Bruno’s Cakes, but was limited by baking in his home kitchen.

Bavarese al pistacchio by Bruno’s Cakes. Instagram photo via @brunoscakescs.
Bavarese al pistacchio by Bruno’s Cakes. Instagram photo via @brunoscakescs.

Fabio went on to hotel school, and took a professional pizza chef course at Scuola Italiana Pizza, as well as classes from master bakers, which all made adjustments to his culinary path. He was working as a pizzaiolo in Italy before the couple moved to SF, and is currently the senior cook/pizza chef at Uber’s headquarters (for Bon Appétit Management Company).

Fabio’s baking skills—along with the couple’s Southern Italian background and deep culinary knowledge—will all be coming into play at Bruno’s Italian Taste. They’re creating an all-day concept that will take some inspiration from caffès, gastronomia counters in Italian supermarkets (where you can shop for and bring home rotisserie chicken, pasta dishes, prepared items), plus street food, Roman-style pizza, and more. A big part of this is Fabio’s exacting taste—he’s dedicated to sourcing and using ingredients with the superior quality and authentic flavors he knows and grew up with, and preparing items the Southern Italian way.

Fabio’s ciabatta while in Italy. Photo via @brunoscakescs.
Fabio’s ciabatta while he was living in Italy. Photo via @brunoscakescs.

Bruno’s will open in the morning, serving Southern Italian caffè classics, like house-baked cornetti, brioche, and crostate. Lunchtime will bring hot and cold panini (on house-baked bread) and pizza in teglia (Roman-style pizza in a pan), calzoni, housemade pasta (including two kinds of lasagna), seasonal dishes, and street food, like arancini (Marcella is half-Sicilian) and frittatine di pasta napoletana (breaded pasta fritters). 

They plan to offer happy hour, with salumi and cheeses and wine, and if you want to bring something home for dinner, like a parmigiana to heat up, you can get that, too. The menu is still in development; the couple will see what the office workers in the neighborhood need and will adapt accordingly.

Marcella’s brother is a graphic designer, and created the Bruno’s Italian Taste logo.
Marcella’s brother is a graphic designer, and created the Bruno’s Italian Taste logo.

They worked with the SF Small Business Administration on their business plan, and Main Street Launch and a city grant have helped with their financing. They were hunting for the right location for a while (they needed a big kitchen and smaller dining area), and are excited to see their longtime concept come to life in San Francisco. I’ll keep you posted on the opening and more; follow @brunositaliantaste in the meantime! 606 Mission St. at 2nd St.

The Antidote to All Those Holiday Cookies You’re Eating: Goop Kitchen Launches in SF Next Week

Smokeshow salmon salad. Photo courtesy of goop kitchen.
Smokeshow salmon salad. Photo courtesy of goop kitchen.

With all the holiday over-indulgence going on, I guess it’s good timing for Gwyneth Paltrow’s delivery-first concept, goop kitchen, to start service in SF on Monday December 15th (goop kitchen originally launched in 2021, and began delivery service in Sunnyvale and San Jose earlier this fall). You can pick up from their SoMa kitchen (at 60 Morris St.) or order delivery (depending upon where you live in the City). 

Curry chicken salad summer rolls from goop kitchen. Photo courtesy of goop kitchen.
Curry chicken salad summer rolls from goop kitchen. Photo courtesy of goop kitchen.

Led by VP of culinary chef Kim Floresca, the menu is all about clean food, featuring nutrient-dense dishes made without processed sugars, seed oils, gluten, or dairy, but still satisfying with “feel-good flavor.”

Where to Enjoy Classic SF Holiday Dining with a Festive Atmosphere

The big booths in Harris’ dining room are ready for your holiday group. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
The big booths in Harris’ dining room are ready for your holiday group. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

I love getting together with friends for festive San Francisco meals, and here are a few (mostly old school) places that really bring the happy holiday vibes. It’s time to get gussied up in some holiday finery, so leave the puffer vest at home.

My favorite prime rib (truly, and get the scalloped potato!) with a barrel-aged black Manhattan plus a soundtrack of some live jazz all await in the lively lounge at Harris’. The dining room is super-festive if you have a group. 

The décor and classic SF vibes at Original Joe’s will get you in the holiday spirit lickety split. They have a menu of ho ho holiday cocktails, and be sure to pick up an OJ’s Christmas tree ornament! What a great gift.

Champagne wishes and caviar dreams come true at The Rotunda. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Champagne wishes and caviar dreams come true at The Rotunda. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

This year, my dear friend and I held our annual ladies holiday lunch at The Rotunda at Neiman Marcus, and it was delightful to see so many bottles of Champagne at everyone’s tables (The Rotunda also offers flights)! We ordered the crab and shrimp Louie salad, and split a lobster club, and, of course, we had fries (I asked them to hold the truffle oil) to go with our flutes of Champagne Laurent-Perrier rosĂ©. Do a little tipsy shopping downtown after lunch.

Fire Up the Fryer: It’s Time for Latkes and Sufganiyot

Delfina’s flash-frozen latkes and accompaniments. Photo courtesy of Delfina.
Delfina’s flash-frozen latkes and accompaniments. Photo courtesy of Delfina.

Hanukkah is December 14th–22nd, and you can save yourself the mess of frying latkes and pick up Delfina’s flash-frozen latkes (1 dozen for $38) instead. (They’re also perfect party bites.) The latkes are hand-formed, made with russet potatoes, onion, egg, and potato starch, and fried in rice bran oil (they’re gluten-free and vegetarian). Optional add-ons include organic apple-quince conserva, crème fraĂ®che, and Gingrass Smoked Steelhead Lox from chef David Gingrass. Pre-order/pick up at Pizzeria Delfina; order for delivery from DoorDash and Good Eggs. Available until sold out.

You can dine-in at Delfina for Hanukkah-inspired and Jew-ish items on their special menu running Sunday December 14th–17th, which includes their duck fat–fried latkes (available through New Year’s Eve); wood-grilled brisket with celery root mantecato; and doughnuts/sufganiyot/bombolini, filled with Meyer lemon curd, pistachio cream, and chocolate.

Don’t forget: the smoked trout latkes at Nopa (served with pickled beet hummus, horseradish crème fraîche, and Rojas navel orange) are really special.

On Sunday December 14th, Mägo in Oakland will partner with SoDo Donuts for a one-day-only collaboration putting a fresh spin on sufganiyot, the traditional Hanukkah doughnut. SoDo Donuts’ Elle Cowan created three flavors: an apple fritter with brown butter–cinnamon apples and cinnamon glaze; a hibiscus sugar donut that balances floral sweetness with subtle tartness (sounds like some people I know); and a raspberry jam and coconut streusel that reimagines the classic sufganiyot with toasted coconut crunch. Pre-orders are open now for pickup on December 14th; walk-ups will also be available. 11am–1pm. 3762 Piedmont Ave., Oakland.

Saturbake Is Back at Octavia and You’re Gonna Want to Get in Line

Pastry chef Melissa Loar’s black futsu babka is one of the featured pastries at this year’s Saturbake. Photo courtesy of Octavia.
Pastry chef Melissa Loar’s black futsu babka is one of the featured pastries at this year’s Saturbake. Photo courtesy of Octavia.

by Savannah Leone Bundy

This Saturday December 13th, Octavia is hosting Saturbake, a lavish, pop-up bake sale in collaboration with Guittard Chocolate. The one-day affair is going to be a celebration of the two local institutions, and also serve as a fundraiser for SF nonprofit 18 Reasons (empowering communities through home cooking)—and the menu is absolutely bananas. 

Preorders for assorted pastry boxes are already sold out, but you can walk up for items like chocolate focaccia ($15), roasted banana–chocolate coffee cake ($8), pear and chai cheesecake danish ($8), black futsu–chocolate babka bun ($7), pork mole croissant ($9)—the piece I’m most curious about, and much more. Lady Falcon Coffee Club will also be on-site serving Guittard hot chocolate and specialty coffee. 

You can find more information about the event and collaborators here. Everything is available on a first-come, first-served basis, so early arrival is encouraged. 10am–1pm. 1701 Octavia St. at Bush (side door). 

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day Dining

I live for our family’s annual Christmas Eve dish: anchovy-breadcrumb spaghetti. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
I live for our family’s annual anchovy-breadcrumb spaghetti on Christmas Eve. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

What started as an array of fish dishes for a special meal to celebrate La Vigilia di Natale/Christmas Eve in Southern Italy eventually morphed into an Italian-American tradition on the East Coast: Festa dei Sette Pesci (The Feast of the Seven Fishes). More recently, it has become a trendy menu format for restaurants to offer on Christmas Eve, but with dishes and ingredients you’d never see on a traditional table (no cheese or meat or truffles!). Honestly, if people tasted our family’s anchovy-breadcrumb pasta, they wouldn’t want scallops with caviar.

Anyway, a couple SF restaurants serving a Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner include 54 Mint (check out the menu here, $95), and A16 is preparing a five-course, prix-fixe menu for $132, with a $72/optional wine pairing featuring fabulous selections from our goddess of the grape, Shelley Lindgren (reservations from 4pm–8:30pm).

Whether You’re Hosting or Attending a Holiday Gathering, Here Are Some Ideas for the Table and the Bar

Holiday party fun with Tsar Nicoulai caviar and Tantos puffed pasta chips. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Holiday party fun with Tsar Nicoulai caviar and Tantos puffed pasta chips. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

While it’s fun to hit the town for holiday cheer and let someone else wash the glasses, some of us will be doing some hosting of our own, or attending holiday gatherings (and you can’t show up empty-handed). Here are a few ideas of what to serve or bring (and how to get invited back!).

Savory Bites

Did you know Chile Lindo in the Mission makes cocktail-size empanadas you can just heat and serve? My fave is the Goooool al Merkén (spicy Angus beef made with KelüMilla Mapuche spice), and there’s even a vegan option that’s just like their classic pino that’s made with Angus beef.

After joking around last year with Anthony Strong at Pasta Supply Co about offering a holiday nut mix called Deez Nutz, he went ahead and did the thing! I am already so obsessed with their saffron and lemon pistachios, they’re seriously the best, and now they added maple vinegar pecans, cashew e pepe (LOL), and pine nut and rosemary brittle, for just $15.

If you’re hosting a last-minute gathering, let A16 La Pala at the Ferry Building Marketplace come to the snacky rescue! Order a medley of their pizza al trancio, which comes in a variety of sizes and warms up beautifully (I’m a fan of the Vesuvio), plus there are three seasonal salads, pressed panini, easy-to-reheat meatballs, and cannoli for dessert. You can pick up (or get delivery).

Preorder some roast duck and crispy skin pork belly from the new Quack House I just wrote about last week, and the tasty baked charsiu bao from Wing Lee Bakery (503 Clement St.) are affordable and filling.

I recently enjoyed a guided cheese and sparkling wine tasting from Domaine Carneros and Point Reyes Cheese—standout pairings were the brut rosé with the TomaProvence (what a winning duo), and my adored La Rêve blanc de blancs 2017 with the bloomy Quinta. Instead of setting up a random cheese board and ice bucket of wine for your guests, guide them to a few perfect pairings from these local and sustainable producers. (You can also show up to a party with a bottle of bubs and paired cheese, classy!)

Sweets

Just one part of the pastry counter at Turquaz in SoMa. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Just one part of the pastry counter at Turquaz in SoMa. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

When I lived in Italy, one of my favorite things was to visit a pasticceria and bring a beautifully wrapped bundle of treats to the host. While there isn’t anything close to that here, I can still recommend picking up a variety of goodies from the epic pastry counter at Turquaz in SoMa. You have to see it to believe it—it’s full of a rainbow of Turkish cookies (I enjoyed a tahini cookie, a walnut cookie, and one that was macaron-style with lemon) and trays of desserts and baklavas (try the milky pistachio and roll pistachio).

There’s quite the array of stunning desserts at KC Paris Desserts on Fillmore, from French baker Khadidiatou Camara (you can call her Didy). Her pastry cases are full of tartelettes (I enjoyed the pear-almond and lime meringue), and Ă©clairs and craquelin (Paris-Brest!). 

The bûche de Noël from Spruce. Photo courtesy of Spruce.
The bûche de Noël from Spruce. Photo courtesy of Spruce.

If you’re in charge of bringing dessert, there’s nothing like a show-stopping bûche de Noël. According to an email by Spruce, “The Bûche de Noël, or Yule Log cake, originated in France in the 19th century as a festive dessert inspired by the ancient tradition of burning a Yule log to celebrate the winter solstice. Traditionally made of sponge cake rolled with rich cream and decorated to resemble a wooden log, it symbolizes warmth and light during the dark days of winter.” Spruce’s version is made of chocolate chiffon cake layered with dark chocolate mousse and whipped chocolate ganache, finished with mascarpone Chantilly cream, mandarin marmalade, and a coffee-almond sablé. Serves 8-10; preorder here, pick up in the café on Tue December 23rd, 11am–5pm.

Over at Le Marais Bakery, they’re offering two flavors of bûche de Noël: Valrhona chocolate genoise, vanilla Bavarian buttercream meringue, chocolate ganache; or bûche à la orange, with almond-orange genoise, almond milk mousse, mandarin marmalade, and orange-vanilla crème.

Le Marais bakes beautiful tarts, like pear-almond tart (KJ Orchards pears, almond frangipane crème, pâte brisĂ©e tart shell), apple tarte tatin, riz au lait flan tart, and apple tarte Normande (an apple-Calvados custard tart with a pâte sablĂ©e crust and housemade shortcrust pastry). 

The galette des rois from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
The galette des rois from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

My very favorite is their galette des rois, a French tart with a puff pastry crust and frangipane filling, made to celebrate the Epiphany (the day of the Three Kings). They also bake a nut-free version with housemade apple compote from KJ Orchards.

If you’re staying as a guest somewhere, bring a box of Le Marais’s frozen bake-at-home cinnamon buns, croissants, or their sampler box.

And to Drink…

I set up a spritz bar with Rue de Rêve apéritifs before a holiday dinner. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
I set up a spritz bar with Rue de Rêve apéritifs before a holiday dinner with my vintage SF glasses from Gump’s. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

When you’re entertaining, you don’t want to be distracted making complicated drinks for guests (and you also don’t want them to get too loaded too fast). For a couple parties, I have put out a chic bottle or two of Rue de RĂŞve apĂ©ritifs—this female-owned company makes a Blanc (white wine infused with grape spirits, grape juices, tangerine, orange, and elderflower—this one is the most floral of the bunch), a RosĂ© (rosĂ© wine infused with grape spirits, grape juices, strawberry, lemon, rose hips, and mint), and the favorite among my guests is the slightly bitter Rouge (red wine infused with grape spirits, grape juices, orange, lemon, cardamom, and gentian root). 

Place a bottle of chilled sparkling wine, soda water, and garnishes on your bar, and the 3-2-1 recipe card for a spritz: 3 oz. Rue de Rêve, 2 oz. chilled soda water, 1 oz. sparkling wine. Pour over ice, garnish with fruit or herbs (mint and strawberry slices go well with the Blanc or the Rosé, and orange slices with the Rouge).

All three apéritifs have won multiple awards—they’re made with all-natural ingredients and organically farmed grapes, with balanced flavors that are refreshing and intriguing without being cloying. The Deco-inspired bottles are so beautiful and look snazzy on your holiday bar with vintage glasses. They also make a fabulous gift (check out the classy gift sets!), and they just launched 375 ml bottles, too.

Keep the ready-to-pour Cold Plunge Martini in your freezer. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Keep the ready-to-pour Cold Plunge Martini in your freezer. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Another ready-to-party bottle is the new Cold Plunge Martini from Jettywave Distillery in Half Moon Bay. It’s a ready-to-pour vesper Martini that lives in your freezer and delivers a perfectly chilled, bar-quality cocktail, no shaker required. It’s made with Jettywave’s small-batch vodka and California Botanical Gin, with a touch of bergamot—and it packs a punch. Sometimes you just need a quick tipple, and this one is there for you. 

If you’re looking for some inspiration and boozy gifts (a bottle of locally made Brucato Amaro is a good pick!), head over to the new Bitters & Bottles shop that opened across from Falletti’s Foods that I wrote about in October—they have a well-selected and vast lineup of craft spirits, and also carry non-alcoholic spirits/aperitivi, bar tools, mixers, and bitters. They’re holding their grand opening this weekend (December 13th–14th), with tastings, releasing special limited edition products, and handing out free enamel cocktail pins. 1275 Fell St. at Broderick.

If you’re looking for a nice bottle of French or Italian wine, and you live in Marin County, you can now visit the new Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant retail location at the Marin Country Mart. Open Sun–Fri 10am–6pm and Sat 9am–6pm. 1003 Larkspur Landing Circle.

Kiss the Cook

Get party menus and inspiration from Dan Pelosi’s latest cookbook, Let’s Party!
Get party menus and inspiration from Dan Pelosi’s latest cookbook, Let’s Party!

If you enjoy cooking for your parties, or you know your host does, then you need former SF resident and now NYT Cooking superstar Dan Pelosi AKA @GrossyPelosi’s latest cookbook, Let’s Party: Recipes and Menus for Celebrating Every Day. The man loves to cook and bake for a crowd, and his cookbook has over 100 recipes organized into 16 themed dinner parties, with all kinds of hosting tips. Let’s just say his holiday cookie party is legendary. 

If you’d like some festive tunes while you trim your tree or have friends over for holiday cheer, here’s my Top It Off playlist I made for a tablehopper holiday party some years ago. (Since I ditched Spotify and moved to Qobuz, you can find it here.)

Passionate About Panettone

Poesia Café’s chocolate-covered panettone with coffee-infused dough. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Poesia Café’s chocolate-covered panettone with coffee-infused dough. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

If you’ve been reading tablehopper for a while, then you know how much I adore panettone. I like to have a few around (kind of like men, haha)—sometimes you want traditional, and sometimes you want a slice of amarena cherry and chocolate. It’s great for breakfast, or an afternoon snack, and something festive to offer impromptu guests. I also make French toast with any leftover in January that needs to get eaten. A good panettone makes a great gift if you’re going to someone’s house.

Every year, I look forward to my first slice of Veneziana panettone (studded with candied orange zest and topped with almond paste, coarse sugar, and toasted almonds) from Emporio Rulli. Baker Gary Rulli has been at it for years (making good panettone is such a craft), and he offers a few kinds of panettone, as well as panforte, and you can order it all for delivery

The new panettone salettone by Gary Rulli. Photo courtesy of Emporio Rulli.
The new panettone salettone by Gary Rulli. Photo courtesy of Emporio Rulli.

And now, new this year, Gary has added a savory panettone to the lineup: panettone salettone! He said it’s a style that is trending in Italy, and he put his own spin on the slow-risen loaf that he added olive oil to, plus Fontina cheese, mortadella, salami, green olives, Parmigiano, cracked black pepper, and a touch of peperoncino. It sounds incredible. He’s been enjoying it with eggs in the morning, and at Ristobar, they’re toasting it and pouring fonduta and shaving truffles over it, yes! The salettone won’t last as long as a typical panettone (he said it’s good for about a week on the counter, or just put it in the fridge), but I don’t see it lasting for that long over here. $55.

Last year, I got to try a beautifully presented chocolate-covered panettone with coffee-infused dough from Poesia Café head baker Giovanni Liguoro. This year, he’s making two kinds of panettone: double chocolate-caramel-pecan panettone, and pistachio panettone filled with pistachio spread, which you can pick up at the café in the Castro.

Hey East Bay folks: for the month of December, Poesia Café’s panettone is also available by the slice at The Caffè by Mr. Espresso in Oakland, so you can dunk it into your cappuccino; you can also purchase a whole panettone.

The chocolate-orange panettone from Starter Bakery. Photo courtesy of Starter Bakery.
The chocolate-orange panettone from Starter Bakery. Photo courtesy of Starter Bakery.

Another fresh and locally made option is the slow-fermented panettone from Starter Bakery in Oakland (and now Albany!). Founder and master baker Brian Wood, pastry chef Jonathan, and head baker Grayson make a traditional version studded with California almonds, Italian candied orange peel, candied lemon peel, and golden raisins; another is chocolate-orange (with Italian candied orange peel and Guittard Chocolate dark chocolate). The delicate texture is extraordinary. Both come gift-boxed. Preorder for pickup or delivery at either of their locations, while supplies last. $62. (There’s stollen and holiday cookies as well.)

Just FYI, it looks like Namesday Bakeshop is taking a break this year.

As for panettone from Italy: 

Balsamic cream and sour cherry panettone from Acetaia Leonardi (at Market Hall). Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Balsamic cream and sour cherry panettone from Acetaia Leonardi (at Market Hall). Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Market Hall in Rockridge carries an extensive array of top-quality, imported panettone, panforte, and cakes from Rustichella d’Abruzzo (there’s a saffron panettone!), Pasticceria Filippi, and there’s even one I tried last year with Balsamic cream and sour cherry from Acetaia Leonardi, it was sooooo good. Some have already sold out, so don’t wait too long.

Some of the most elegantly presented panettoni are from Loison in Vicenza, which were imported by Casa de Case (who sadly closed their doors a few months ago), but, fortunately, Anthony Strong at Pasta Supply Co is continuing to bring them over. I just picked up this year’s peach-rosemary flavor ($48), and last year, I loved the pandoro with decadent zabaione custard inside. There’s also a classic flavor, citrus fest, and chocolate salted caramel. Click the “Holidays 2025” tab to order (and don’t forget to order Deez Nutz as well).

The panettoni from Infermentum have arrived in the Donato online store, and they always sell out. There’s a fig, apple, and walnut version, and the quattrogusti features dark chocolate, sour cherries, apricots, and chestnuts. You can order online for delivery or pickup (which is handy if you’re in the Peninsula).

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