Sep 27, 2025 23 min read

This week’s tablehopper: muy despacio. (free)

This week’s tablehopper: muy despacio. (free)
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what’s cookin’

The extraordinary disco ball and lighting at Despacio at Portola Music Festival. Photo: Erica Gagliardi.
The extraordinary disco ball and lighting at Despacio at Portola Music Festival 2025. Photo: Erica Gagliardi.
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Happy Friday! I’m finally back in your inbox after recovering from last weekend’s two-day Portola Music Festival (more on that in a momentito), catching up on sleep and a pile of emails on Monday, and taking Tuesday off to soak up some precious sun rays on my body. What an epic day on my beloved beach—it was so hot that I splashed around in the waves multiple times, drank my Sofia brut rosé (one of my fave beach bubbles in a can, think pink!) along with my Limoncello Siciliano sub (hold the balsamic) and smoked some weed and read my book and stayed until I could admire the hot pink sunset while driving home. One low point was I got stung a couple times on the back of my calf by a yellow jacket while on the beach—what a bastard—and based on the size of my current welt, that lil’ fucker got me good. Wabi sabi!

After a full-tilt weekend of music with friends and a glorious beach day of sun and slowing the eff down, my heart and spirit are feeling lighter. Today is gorg, and next Friday October 3rd is looking like more of the same—keep an eye on the weather and plan on taking a day off. Enjoy these moments of our late summer weather, fill your cup!

For my fellow music lovers: if you didn’t get a chance to see Air perform their “Moon Safari” album live at the Masonic last October, they’re back and doing a repeat performance this Sunday September 28th, and I still see some tickets. It’s spectacular and truly dreamy in that venue, don’t miss it.

If you’re near the Sacramento area, today Friday September 26th to the 28th, is the U.S. debut of the world-renowned Terra Madre Americas Salone del Gusto from Slow Food (one of the world’s largest food festivals). There will be pavilions and lounges with Slow Food pioneers, a marketplace, culinary presentations, panels, wine, cocktails, and much more, and it’s free to attend.

I was hoping to send this to you yesterday, but I had to skedaddle early since I was hosting a cannabis microdoser bar at a private event in Berkeley, and I wasn’t finished writing about the Despacio sound system at Portola just yet. (I really wanted to try to capture that experience while it keeps swirling around my head and heart. I need an editor for this piece, but screw it, sometimes you just gotta send it!)

Today’s column is a hefty beast that has us mostly caught up on the news that hit while I was away, as well as some quick stories that keep rolling in, it never stops. Life and work have been a lot for me to manage lately, and I look forward to being able to share some updates with you awesome supporting subscribers on where and what I’ve been eating soon! (I have some delicious picks for you.) But for now, I’m not keeping to much of a schedule—I’m just sending and posting when I can. Thanks for riding with me.

Buon weekend! XO!
~Marcia


the chatterbox

One of the many moods on the Despacio dance floor. Photo: © tablehopper.com. DESPACIO PORTOLA 2025
There are many moods on the Despacio dance floor. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Lost in Music: The Despacio Sound System at Portola Music Festival Was a Life-Changing Portal to Another Dimension and I Wanna Go Back

After taking a year off from the Portola Music Festival (I was busy packing and moving last year, ugh), there was no way I was going to miss this year’s festival, which was bringing the DESPACIO sound system to SF for the first time! I’ve been waiting since 2013 to experience this high-powered (now something like 70,000 watts), immersive, enclosed, analog, high-fidelity sound system (thanks McIntosh) and audio experience designed by James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem, the Soulwax brothers, and McIntosh audio tech and recording engineer John Klett. (You can geek a little on it here.) Lighting designer Jonas Weyn of Arf&Yes is a visual wizard. 

Despacio has been touring festivals around the world (a friend said this appearance may have been Despacio’s 20th), and I dug meeting fans on the dance floor who have experienced Despacio before in Belgium, or LA, or London. I would absolutely travel to experience it again, and again, and again, no question, I’m hooked. I knew I was going to spend a great deal of time in Despacio, but I didn’t know it would be hours and hours. I got so lost in outer space in there! I would think about popping over to see Erol Alkan in the Warehouse or The Prodigy, but me and my music-lovin’ friends knew there would be nothing that would transport us the way the experience we were having in the Despacio spaceship was, so we stayed put.

Despacio was created by and for audiophiles and deep lovers of music and dancing, a true top-shelf party experience. I’m talking a grand cru Champagne of a dance floor selection and analog sonic experience and vibe and crowd. The sublime soundtrack is provided by James Murphy and brothers David and Stephen Dewaele of 2ManyDJs and Soulwax, who only spin vinyl (you can just imagine the deep crates this crew pulled from their personal collections and brought—so cu next Tuesday). It’s unreal to think about how seamlessly they mixed their records—there was just a pop I heard once to remind me it was vinyl. True masters at work. The inclusive style ranges from Balearic disco to house to post-punk to classic rock to 80s new wave to 60s soul to Brazil to German electro to Italo disco to Manchester to deep space. Gaaaaaaah!

One of the seven McIntosh stacks at Despacio. Photo: © tablehopper.com. DESPACIO PORTOLA 2025
One of the seven McIntosh stacks at Despacio. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

I heard music on a completely different level—it was so rich, complex, full, and clear. I have never heard Marvin Gaye’s “A Funky Space Reincarnation Spaceship” like I did this past weekend. Just think about all the times you would get stoned and listen to an album while lying on the floor in front of your speakers, and then multiply it by your favorite moments dancing in front of the speakers at a club or rave on good X, with a jazzy riff of being in a small, sweaty club like the Blue Nile in New Orleans during Jazz Fest. It’s a layer cake of sound.

You will hear so many components of the tracks, instruments you have never noted, the trippy bass lines, the drum kicks, the backup vocals, the hisses, the horns, the handclaps…but you can also can talk over the music for a minute with your dance partners—it was never too loud, so it’s not uncomfortable and you don’t have to yell. But seriously, shut up and dance.

The pace of the music is so juicy and delicious (it’s called “slowly” for a reason)—it’s the antidote to the hard-driving BPM and expected bass drops you get at the clerb. The crew keeps the tempo around 120 BPM or lower, and they also slow the tracks down, which is so interesting and subtle (is it you or the psychedelics or…?). It’s about emotion and feeling and no destination, really. You get lost in the full tracks playing, some of them for seven or eight minutes—it’s not a bunch of ADHD quick cuts and mixes. Gimme the chuggers. You savor every song and really sink into it, even if you’ve never heard it before (and just wait until they start layering and mixing them). It’s the ultimate listening and dancing party. (Check out one of the many playlists on Spotify of past music Despacio has played to get a sense of the vibe.)

Ladies and gentlemen, we are floating in space. Photo: © tablehopper.com. DESPACIO PORTOLA 2025
Ladies and gentlemen, we are floating in space. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

The tracks and remixes were fricking choice, of course, and offered such a journey down memory lane, which I appreciate because James Murphy is just a little bit older than I am, and the Soulwax brothers are right in line with me and my sis, so I feel like we all share a lot of the same nostalgia, growing up with the Bee Gees (“Love You Inside Out”), and raving to A Guy Called Gerald (“Voodoo Ray”). You’ll dip into memory moments from so many eras, from INXS to Hall & Oates (“I Can't Go for That [No Can Do]” sounded so crystal clean and brilliant), and I couldn’t believe they dropped The Byrds (“Triad”). They swept me away with Dennis Parker’s “Like an Eagle,” and completely blew my mind with “Freaks Only” by Black Meteoric Star, what a sick fucking track. The crowd went wild over Monika’s “Secret in the Dark” (one of my favorite songs to drive to with the sunroof open), and I can’t stop replaying Kraftwerk’s “Numbers” and “Computerwelt 2” in my head. Wrapping up Sunday’s set with the Beatles’ “Here Comes the Sun” as the golden lights blasted on the midnight sun was pure genius. What a banquet.

What’s wild is it’s five days later, and I can’t stop dancing to Flash and the Pan’s “Midnight Man” on SO LOUD in my apartment, and getting chills when I hear another song the Despacio crew played on their Instagram stories and remembering the moment. (I decided to start a Spotify playlist just so I can keep replaying them, I’ll be adding more soon. UPDATE: someone created this monster Portola playlist, enjoy it! I also posted some videos on @tablehopper!) I wish some of these artists who are no longer with us could see us singing and dancing our hearts out to their music, decades later.

This all takes me back to the first time I heard acid house on the Quake radio station while driving home one night in the late ’80s (Maurice, “This Is Acid”) and I had to run to all the record stores in San Mateo (including Tower Records and Vinyl Solution) until I found the 12-inch and could hear it again. My brain was like, “WHAT THE FUCK IS THIS?!” It wasn’t until I ended up at my first rave at La Casa in Los Angeles a year or so later and I got to hear acid house booming in a warehouse instead of on my dinky SONY home stereo system and it all made sense and I absolutely lost it. I was chasing that sound every weekend. 

This experience I just had with Despacio is bringing back those same heady feelings of musical discovery and joy. But what’s wild is many of these songs are ones I already know, but I was just experiencing them and hearing them and feeling them in a thrillingly new way. NEXT LEVEL ACHIEVED. I am seriously contemplating going to III Points Music Festival in Miami in a few weeks just so I can do it again. My baby raver from 30 years ago is yelling inside of me: “GO GO GO!” But I would need to hold a fundraiser to do it, LOL.

One nation under a groove (and the world’s sickest disco ball). Photo: Erica Gagliardi. DESPACIO PORTOLA 2025
One nation under a groove (and the world’s sickest disco ball). Photo: Erica Gagliardi.

Despacio’s dancing vibe catapulted me back to my favorite dance floors (Club Universe at 177 Townsend and the Sunday T-Dance at The EndUp), when clubbers would pay some attention to the DJ, but we mostly looked at and danced with each other, instead of everyone transfixed watching the DJ like they’re a live band. The Despacio DJ/sound booth flanks one side of the dance floor, and has a high partition that you can barely see over—I kept asking my tall friend to confirm when I would assume it was James Murphy playing a track I was digging (my friends know I refer to him as my husband).

Despacio offers older party mom dancers like me (rave to the grave!) a taste of what we used to love about going out before the iPhone and Shazam, while also teaching younger generations another way to be on the dance floor—to connect with each other instead of all facing one way and watching the DJ’s every move and being glued to your phone capturing everything so you can post it later. 

It was so hot and steamy, but, thankfully, there were Despacio heads with big fans that said Big Despacio Fan on them (adorbs), and they would kindly and lovingly fan your sweaty face, whoosh, thanks for cooling me off. It felt like early rave days, with friendly folks on the dance floor and easy connections and generous interactions, with people welcoming you into their dance space instead of being a dick. The vibe was ecstatic and appreciative and exuberant (but not too rowdy). We were singing to each other and playing and smiling, exulting in this exquisite IYKYK shared experience. Sure, there were a few dead bricks on the floor, but you’d just need to dance around them (or engage them with a couple dancey elbow jabs like a cattle prod, zap).

Another look at the McIntosh stacks. Photo: Shawn Ball. DESPACIO PORTOLA 2025
Another look at the McIntosh stacks. Photo: Shawn Ball.

I swooned over how the sound surrounds you, thanks to the seven massive McIntosh speaker stacks that stand guard like disco monoliths, pumping with their dancing blue meters, occasionally illuminated by a slow beam of light, oh so cinematic and sexy. It’s worth trying to get to the middle of the black-and-white checkered dance floor under the disco ball for the ultimate surround sound moment, but I enjoyed dancing all over the floor. You feel the sound ripple through various parts of your body and on your skin, but without any intense bass in your face that makes your hair blow back—it’s more sensuous and subtle, a warm bass breeze.

Hit me with those laser beams! Photo: Shawn Ball. DESPACIO PORTOLA 2025
Hit me with those laser beams! Photo: Shawn Ball.

There was a long line to get into the tent for most of the weekend, but it actually moved pretty quickly. Honestly, I would have waited an hour or even more for this experience. When we walked into the tent, it was pitch black and hard to get our bearings until some lights would twirl off on the dance floor. The lighting rig was unreal—the timed beams of light in colors like light sabers would beam down onto the crowd, and then BOOM, the way they would refract the lights onto the massive disco ball during a crescendo moment in a song was unlike anything I have ever seen. SO GODDAMN GORGEOUS. Occasionally, they’d light up the entire dance floor, showing the lifted crowd in all our sweaty glory, but they mostly kept it pretty dark, which helped keep me grooving in my own inner/outer space.

We needed this, truly, deeply. It was so restorative to be joyful in community while the world feels so dark and crazy. Shake that shit off. Leave it on the dance floor. I’m still floating. Despacio is happiness. Thank you thank you thank you!

Nancy Whang and LCD Soundsystem on Saturday’s Pier Stage. Photo: © tablehopper.com. PORTOLA 2025
Nancy Whang and LCD Soundsystem on Saturday’s Pier Stage. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

As for the rest of the Portola festival, Caribou and LCD Soundsystem really brought it on Saturday—the trippy ’60s effects on the screens for LCD were extra-fantastic. Neil Frances Presents Club NF was cute, and the DJ set by the Chemical Brothers in the Warehouse was unhinged. Underworld on the main Pier Stage on Sunday really blasted things up compared to two years ago, but otherwise, all I wanted was more time in the Despacio tent. 

I so adore the international crowd you get with a music festival— hottie Alex from Mexico City, a cute couple from Seattle (hi David and Jamie!), the friendly Vlad and his lady who flew to Belgium for Despacio, and I had fun speaking in my special mix of Spanish-Italian with a man from Málaga at the end of the night.

Props to Goldenvoice on the fantastic stages, sound, lighting, and friendly staff. But here’s the thing: I managed to hit something like 22,000 steps each day, and Pier 80’s rough concrete is really tough on the body. And again, damn it, the festival organizers didn’t provide anywhere for us to sit and take a load off unless you’re eating, which feels a bit cruel, especially for anyone over 40. Even a patch of AstroTurf would be kind.

Another gripe: the poorly placed porta-potties were out of TP by 3pm, with broken and empty hand sanitizer dispensers that weren’t replenished, so, hopefully, you’re a savvy festival-goer (see below) and carry your own supply. But, with people paying as much as they did for a weekend pass, we really need the basics covered. 

Transpo at the end of the festival continues to be a clusterfuck, but my new pro move was to...

It was fun to pregame at The Morris on Saturday at their poulet frites lunch (such perfect timing, and hello, Chartreuse slushy), which was totally a party on the sidewalk, and it was close and easy to get to the festival (thanks to Mom and Dad for the ride), and shoutout to Sunrise Deli for their tasty falafel (extra hummus) at the end of the festival on Sunday.

Dance floor gifts. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Dance floor gifts. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

I can’t believe we had that 4.3 earthquake on Monday morning just before 3am, when I’m sure so many festival-goers were still feeling the effects from their party supplies. It was a goodnight kiss from SF—just like a raccoon sticker that was handed to me that said: “Cute but feral.”

Ama and Ama Social Club Are Bringing ’70s Glam with an Italian Accent to the Transamerica Pyramid Center

ama’s moody Copper Room. Photo courtesy of ama.
ama’s moody Copper Room. Photo courtesy of ama.

Now open (as of Wednesday September 24th) is ama and ama Social Club from Miami chef Brad Kilgore and Kilgore Hospitality Group at the Transamerica Pyramid Center. This is the third Transamerica project from KHG, following Café Sebastian and MadLab Kakigori. You enter ama from the Transamerica Redwood Park, stepping into a dramatic and moody space, the Copper Room, designed by Kevin Klein Design. It’s unexpectedly petite, with just 18 seats (24 total when you include the seats at the copper-wrapped cocktail bar) like a chic boîte in Paris in 1975, or something out of a film, with elements of shou shugi ban burnt wood, oxblood ceramic Heath Dimensional tiles, metallic panels on the ceiling and boxy lantern-inspired lights, Cassina chairs, a channel-tufted green banquette, and a glowing backbar. 

The dining area in the Copper Room. Photo courtesy of ama.
The dining area in the Copper Room. Photo courtesy of ama.

The glammy luxe style continues into ama Social Club, tucked behind curtains in the back of the dining room, with bulbous lounge seating giving some Roche Bobois vibes underneath a custom oculus light dome, a supperclub-esque dining room with curving booths upholstered in dark green leather, low lighting, plus a couple vintage pinball machines from the ’70s (and live entertainment, DJ sets, and more Thursday–Saturday).

The lounge under the oculus in ama Social Club. Photo courtesy of ama.
The lounge under the oculus in ama Social Club. Photo courtesy of ama.

The menu is available in both spaces, and will feature Kilgore’s personal take on Itameshi cuisine, a Japanese spin on primarily Italian dishes, highlighting umami and Japanese technique in sashimi and crudo appetizers, handmade pastas, and koji-aged and binchotan-grilled meats. Some dishes include...

The ama Social Club menu will include...

ama is open for dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–9:30pm and Fri–Sat until 10:30pm. The ama Social Club will stay open late Tue–Thu until 11:30pm, and Fri–Sat until 12:30am. Reservations available via Open Table, and there will be some room for walk-ins. (There’s also a cocktail kiosk outside the restaurant in the beautiful Redwood Park, where you can enjoy a drink and shuffleboard.) 545 Sansome St.

Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak Sets an Opening Date, Along with Steph Curry’s First Bar, The Eighth Rule

Mina’s signature tuna tartare. Instagram photo via @bourbonsteaksf.
Mina’s signature tuna tartare. Instagram photo via @bourbonsteaksf.

The date has been set for the upcoming return of chef Michael Mina and The MINA Group’s Bourbon Steak San Francisco at The Westin St. Francis in Union Square.

You Look Like You Should Eat Something—Luckily, Super Mensch Is Now Open in the Marina

Super Mensch’s pastrami sandwich on house-baked rye. Photo: Angela DeCenzo.
Super Mensch’s pastrami sandwich on house-baked rye. Photo: Angela DeCenzo.

The Causwells team (chef Adam Rosenblum and beverage director Elmer Mejicanos) opened their East Coast Jewish deli—inspired Super Mensch in the former neighboring Lilah on Wednesday September 24th. Anyone who got a taste of Rosenblum’s housemade pastrami (which he cures for two weeks) and house-baked rye back when he ran a pandemic pop-up in 2022 out of Little Red Window in North Beach will be thrilled to have a permanent spot to enjoy his killer deli sandwiches, which include a stacked pastrami on rye (the namesake Super Mensch) or in a standard-sized sandwich, plus a Reuben with corned beef and house sauerkraut (the lacto-fermented 3/4 sour pickles are also housemade).

Classics like latkes and matzoh ball soup are available, while some sides aren’t just the usual and include potato salad zhuzhed up with salmon roe, or fresh coleslaw with cashews. He’s making some bagels, too, with a variety of toppings, from house scallion cream cheese and cold-smoked salmon, to a P.E.C. (pastrami, egg, and cheese) for the daily brunch. 

They’re in the heart of the Marina, so you can go lighter with a variety of dips with za’atar flatbread, a halibut crudo with preserved lemon, a turkey sandwich, or a smoked and spiced vegetarian “pastrami” beet sandwich with avocado spread, plus a couple salads, like a fattoush chopped salad that sounds like a winner. 

Daily brunch brings smoked whitefish on rye toast and challah French toast (with cultured butter from Adam’s mother’s recipe) for those with a taste for sweets, and speaking of, there’s a devil’s food chocolate cake they’re making every day that you can order a big slice of, but when it’s gone, it’s gone. Check out the full menu here.

The Bagel & Lox Martini. Photo: Angela DeCenzo.
The Bagel & Lox Martini. Photo: Angela DeCenzo.

Of course, Elmer Mejicanos has totally run long and deep with his creative cocktail menu of 13 options, from deli classics like Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda reimagined with tequila, mezcal, Cloosterbitter, cold-pressed celeriac, cucumber, green apple, and Persian lime, to a Bagel & Lox Martini (gin, aquavit, caper-infused vermouth, toasted sesame, heirloom tomato water, cucumber skin, wild salmon caviar–stuffed olive), and there’s even a Matzah Ball Soup Margarita (tequila, parsley, carrot tops, star anise, celery hearts, dill pollen, Persian lime, nori, orange liqueur, dill evoo, schmaltz matzah cracker). 

The handmade wood booths. Photo: Angela DeCenzo.
The handmade wood booths. Photo: Angela DeCenzo.

Like the menu, the space pays homage to old-school, Jewish American delis and culture, with some contemporary Bay Area touches, including hand-built wood booths, and a modern twist on deli counter seating. Whether you want to come by for a bagel for brunch or matzo ball soup (and a Margarita to match) for dinner, the all-day hours will make it easy. Open Tue–Wed 11am–9pm, Thu–Fri 11am–10pm, Sat 10am–10pm, and Sun 10am–9pm. 2336 Chestnut St.

For the Next Three Months, Montesacro Marina Is Now Alice, a Completely Gluten-Free Italian Pop-Up, Menu, and Kitchen

The inspiration for the Alice pop-up at Montesacro Marina. Photo: Montesacro Marina.
The inspiration for the Alice pop-up at Montesacro Marina. Photo: Montesacro Marina.

What does an Italian restaurant couple do when their youngest daughter is diagnosed with celiac disease? If you’re Gianluca Legrottaglie and Viviana Devoto of Montesacro, 54 Mint, and Bettola, you work with your talented chef Mattia Marcelli and create a new menu of gluten-free Roman pasta dishes and pinsa and launch a pop-up named in honor of their daughter, Alice

It has been a journey for the family to learn how to cook for her, discovering new techniques and ingredients along the way, and now they want to share their progress and explore this concept as a pop-up in their Montesacro Marina location. The restaurant team has established an entirely gluten-free kitchen, so there isn’t any risk of cross-contamination (the supplì in the fryer are untouched!). They’re going to be running this pop-up until January 2026 as they consider and search for a new location for this concept. 

The team is thrilled to be able to welcome the celiac and gluten-sensitive community, and provide a full menu they can enjoy and order off of, with three kinds of gluten-free pasta (the spaghetti and rigatoni are from a pastificio in Gragnano called La Fabbrica Della Pasta—there are no gums or other chemicals, just corn flour, rice flour, and water), plus potato gnocchi, and risotto, and seven kinds of their trademark pinsa, specially made with quinoa and rice flours and pea starch (no gums!) from Corrado Di Marco. The appetizers even include polpette/meatballs made and served with gluten-free bread, and there are three secondi to choose from. And don’t forget, this location also has a full bar and fun happy hour.

Whether you suffer from celiac disease, gluten intolerance, or you just want to avoid it, or perhaps your partner can’t eat gluten (but you can), here’s an accessible menu designed so everyone wins. (Because if anyone was going to finesse a gluten-free pasta dish into something authentic that everyone would eat, it would be a Roman-born Italian chef and owner.) And if you’re craving the full gluten experience, you can always head to 54 Mint or Montesacro in SoMa for their usual menus and Roman pasta dishes. I look forward to hearing how this all goes. Tell your gluten-free amici! 3317 Steiner St. at Chestnut.

Quick News Bites

How heaven begins at Ernest. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
How heaven begins at Ernest. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

The SF Business Times was first to note the permit application for a new project from Ernest chef-owner Brandon Rice called Lawrence in the former Alexander’s Steakhouse in SoMa. Rice declined to share any details at this time, so file this one under “developing.” I can’t wait to hear what this creative and talented chef has in store for us. I guess this means Alexander’s Steakhouse’s move to Claude Le Tohic’s Union Square building in January is now a permanent one. 488 Brannan St.

The House of Prime Rib–loving world is mourning the passing of restaurateur Joe Betz at the age of 86. You can read about his SF restaurant life in this SF Chronicle piece (or in SFist if you don’t have a subscription).

Some chef moves: ROOH San Francisco has a new executive chef, Ashish Tiwari, who is taking over for chef Valice Francis, who came on in October 2024. 333 Brannan at Stanford. [Via BW Hotelier]

The recently redesigned Izzy’s Steakhouse in the Marina now has Cory Armenta in place as the executive chef. Juanita More! says in her weekly Loads of Love newsletter: “Cory has played a significant role at the local nonprofit Mama G’s Street Dinners by sharing food with community members who need it most. The menu at Izzy’s celebrates the classic dishes that they have been serving for decades, combined with new items sure to become our next favorites.” 3345 Steiner St. 

New Openings Include the North Beach Location of Ebiko, Saté and Soto in Saluhall, and More

I can practically taste this seafood laksa from Saté and Soto’s chef Morsinah Katimin. Photo: Kristen Loken.
I can practically taste this seafood laksa from Saté and Soto’s chef Morsinah Katimin. Photo: Kristen Loken.

The rotating roster of vendors at Mid-Market’s Saluhall continues…the latest is Saté and Soto from chef, entrepreneur, and La Cocina graduate Morsinah Katimin. Here’s more: "Drawing on her Indonesian roots, Katimin provides a menu inspired by traveling cart vendors in villages and rural areas across Indonesia, offering guests a soulful and authentic taste of the country’s vast archipelago. After a long career in the culinary industry, Sate and Soto marks Katimin’s first storefront and features four distinct styles of saté, each representing a different Indonesian island. These skewers are served with her award-winning sweet potato and cashew sauce, which earned national recognition from the Good Food Awards in 2018. The menu also spotlights soto, a beloved Indonesian soup available with coconut, tamarind, or nut-based broths and paired with chicken, beef, or lamb. Sides include tempeh and tofu fries and lontong, a slow-cooked rice cake wrapped in banana leaves.” Sounds so tasty. Open Mon–Thu 9am–8pm, Fri–Sat 9am–9pm, and Sun 9am–7pm. 945 Market St.

Some East Bay Updates: Cafe Brusco and Edith’s Pie

Mortadella on a sesame bagel, hell yes. Instagram photo via @cafebrusco. 
Mortadella on a sesame bagel, hell yes. Instagram photo via @cafebrusco

My pal at Berkeley Eats paid an early visit to the brand-new Cafe Brusco from the Rose Pizzeria team and couple (Alexis Rorabaugh and Gerad Gobel), who are baking bagels (plain, sesame, everything, and fennel and orange bagels!) in Rose’s pizza ovens, and then adding Italian-inspired, sandwich-style toppings, like Italian ham and fig jam; or the Summer Girl bagel set with grated Early Girl tomato, garlic, burrata, and basil; and they’re making something like my favorite summer toast I do at home: flirty fig with whipped cream cheese, basil, sea salt, honey, and olive oil. They just expanded their hours, and are now serving hot and cold espresso drinks (like a shakerato) daily from 8am–3pm, and wine service Thu–Sat until 9pm. The space looks cute. 2000 University Ave., Berkeley.

Tough news out of Oakland: Berkeley Eats caught the sad post from Edith’s Pie that they’re fighting to stay open through Thanksgiving (peak pie season). Go get some pie, and here’s their GoFundMe to aid in repaying vendors, operational debt, and paying their staff while they try to stay open day by day, week by week. 412 22nd St., Oakland.


the lush

Lemon drops and popcorn at The Final Final. Photo by @eringgg.
Lemon drops and popcorn at The Final Final. Photo by @eringgg.

It Ain’t Over (Ever) at The Final Final, Debuting Its New Look and Format This Weekend

After purchasing The Final Final from the Prien family in 2024, new co-owners Joseph Wallace and Robert Lemons of the Bus Stop Saloon and Left Door...

East Brother Beer Co. Is Busy with Not Just One But Two New Openings

The patio at The Rec Room at the Metreon will be a prime location to enjoy a beer. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
The patio at The Rec Room at the Metreon will be a prime location to enjoy a beer. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Last week, I was grabbing a sandwich from the new Oink & Oscar in Yerba Buena (the two I tried needed a bit more fine-tuning, but their porkstrami is a clever creation) and I walked across Mission Street to the Metreon to take a look at The Rec Room by Richmond-based East Brother Beer Co., which is holding their grand opening today Friday September 26th (4pm–9pm), with custom pint glasses engraved onsite and more, deets here. We wrote about this upcoming taproom back in July, which is right on the Yerba Buena gardens. Metreon, 135 4th St. at Mission.

If you’re near Mill Valley, East Brother Beer Co. just opened Tam Tavern in the former Floodwater with Bill Higgins (Bix, Fog City Diner, Buckeye Roadhouse, Playa, Corner Bar) and talented chef Michael Siegel (who earned a 2025 Bib Gourmand for Playa). When you finish a hike in Tennessee Valley, you’ll find an upgraded and expanded outdoor beer garden here where you can cool off with a pint of Bo Pils, complete with fire pits and heat lamps for later when you get chilly. Inside, there are multiple television screens and a dedicated game room with shuffleboard and darts, as well as a 30-seat bar (with some beer-infused cocktails and a full bar), and Floodwater’s former Leather Lounge is available for private events. 

Open Mon–Thu 4pm–9pm, Fri 4pm–10pm, Sat 12pm–10pm, and Sun 10am–9pm. 152 Shoreline Ave., Mill Valley.

Some News That Will Have You Crying Into Your Beer 

The 25th anniversary IPA from 21st Amendment Brewery. Instagram photo via @21stamendment.
The 25th anniversary IPA from 21st Amendment Brewery. Instagram photo via @21stamendment.

21st Amendment Brewery will sadly be closing their SF brewpub (after 25 years!) this Sunday September 28th (they say all the beer must go, so you can imagine what a final party it’s going to be, 10am–9pm, 563 2nd St.), as well as their San Leandro taproom and brewing facility by early November, unless they can find a buyer. Read more in this story on SFGATE and Brewbound.

Hoodline reports that indoor/outdoor beer garden and restaurant Willkommen is closing after six years of business in the Castro on Friday October 3rd. Owner Jim Furman also owns Black Hammer Brewing in SoMa, and is going to be focusing more on the brewery. 2198 Market St. at Sanchez.

A Couple Cheeky-Sized Updates 

Delfina has a variety of Negronis on their cocktail menu. Photo courtesy of Delfina.
Delfina has a variety of Negronis on their cocktail menu. Photo courtesy of Delfina.

the socialite

Photo from the inaugural Sunset Night Market. Photo: Kemily Visuals.
Photo from the inaugural Sunset Night Market. Photo: Kemily Visuals.

Enjoy Fresh Air and Food and Community at These Outdoor Events This Weekend

Book Your Table Now for a Special Diwali Brunch at Copra


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