what’s cookin’
Howdy, hopper pals. I’m back in your inbox, but after sending last week’s tome on a Friday, I’m keeping things a bit more manageable today. Like, short and sweet (just 4,000 words, LOL). Yesterday, I trotted over to take pics of the about-to-reopen Palmer’s Tavern on Fillmore Street, so you can read all about the new chef and get a first look in today’s exclusive. I’m also working on a Five Places to Eat at Now for the latest The Hopper Notebook update for all you rad supporting subscribers, stand by for that!
This Thursday October 2nd, your night owl hopper is getting up hella early to be a guest on the Roll Over Easy radio show, which airs live on BFF.fm. I should be joining the show around 8:45am, so I hope you early birds can tune in! I’m thrilled that their show offers an optimistic look at what’s happening in San Francisco, so I will have plenty to talk about.
And then on Thursday evening (how on earth is it October 2nd, come on now?), I’m looking forward to happy hour at The Cinch Saloon, because a very special guest will be in town and hanging out, the inimitable Glendon Hyde (Anna Conda)! Hope to see you there.
It’s also SF First Thursday Art Walk that evening, so I’m going to hit up a few galleries and obviously pick up my monthly loaf of Leaven Worth from the Compton’s Cafeteria Riot set. If you’re going to be in the neighborhood, don’t miss having dinner and drinks at the new Meski or Dacha!
Thanks to so many of you who dug my in-depth piece about the Despacio sound system in last week’s tablehopper, and I wanted to share a link to my videos on Instagram in case you want to see the dance floor vibe and incomparable disco ball and lighting in action! As for the sound, you gotta experience that one in person. Hilariously, I have just been reunited with one of my favorite Big Despacio Fans, Vlad, who invited me to join his posse in Miami for the III Points Music Festival. Guess who is checking her banked United airline miles as soon as I hit send on this thing? Am I becoming a Despacio groupie? Are you going? The festival is at the Mana Wynwood, so if anyone has any Miami friends with a spare room or bed or hotel hookups nearby, hit your gurl up! I’m currently womanifesting this thing. 🔮 YOLO.
Enjoy the rain tonight/tomorrow, but get ready for a sunny weekend (I say book an early table on the heated back patio of La Mar and settle into a pisco sour and a trio of their cebiches).
¡Hasta pronto!
~Marcia
the chatterbox
An Anchor Restaurant in Pacific Heights Is About to Reopen After Two Years of Repairs
The Palmer’s Tavern neon light has been dark on the corner of Fillmore and Clay over the past couple years—the restaurant has been closed for repairs and renovations after a water leak in the apartment above caused quite a bit of damage. Owner Sam Fechheimer originally thought it would be several months of repairs until they could reopen, but as they started ripping up the flooring, walls, and ceiling, the damage was pretty extensive—it’s such an old building that the scope of work snowballed as they brought it up to code with ADA upgrades and rewired the entire building. Add in working with two insurance companies, permits, and the usual construction delays, and it all dragged things on for two years (and a month, for good measure). He’s just happy the day to reopen is finally here.
Fechheimer took over Palmer’s from Albert Rainer (Leopold’s) during the pandemic, and he actually used to be a chef there back in the day (it was previously The Long Bar, Fillmore Street Bar & Grill, Fillmore Grill, and La Posada). He tells me the space dates back to 1908, and he decided to keep the warm tavern-meets-bistro décor the same—why mess with a good thing?
Most people won’t notice the small differences when they walk in—the cherry red upholstered barstools and banquettes and booths are all back (all newly reupholstered), and the photos will be returning to the wood walls, although a new painting will be added to the mix (and a couple less taxidermy animal heads), while the long bar was rebuilt and is a little bit shorter (there are now two TVs over the bar), and there is new flooring. One thing regulars will notice is the bathrooms got a much-needed upgrade, and now each have different wallpaper (Martinis, jaguars, and check out the vintage collage in the small WC).
Fechheimer wants Palmer’s Tavern to continue to feel like a classic, relaxed, old-time SF neighborhood spot, where you can come by for good food, weekend brunch, and then there’s the loooooong bar, ready to serve happy hour drinks, or a nightcap after dinner. The opening bartender (and now bar manager) Doug Bryson, who has been there since 2013, will be happy to serve you and see you again—about 50 percent of the old staff who have been there for years came back (the GM is Paul Pace).
The former jenky kitchen is all-new, with a new reopening chef to boot: Matt “Russell” Woods, who racked up awards for his cheeseburger and tasty fare while at Scopo Divino for eight years, and was previously the chef of Alba Ray’s and at Schmidt’s—most recently, he has been at Gather in Berkeley, revamping their regular menu, catering, and private events menus. He’s looking forward to returning to the Pac Heights neighborhood, and Fechheimer is happy to have him dialing up the quality of the food at Palmer’s.
We went over a draft of his menu, which will include beef carpaccio, lobster arancini, hamachi crudo, fun bar bites like onion dip and spinach and artichoke dip, and a wedge salad with cornbread crumble and heirloom tomato, plus a grilled cheese with apple butter, fiore sardo, and asiago. Larger plates will include bavette steak au poivre, meatballs, white bean cassoulet with smoked meat, classic fish and chips with rock cod, and some dishes from before will return, like the chicken paillard. A couple pasta dishes may include braised butternut squash, broccoli rabe, caramelized onion, and Swiss chard ravioli, and perhaps a bolognese.
Of course, there will be a burger (with aged white cheddar) and he’s going to offer a fried chicken sandwich with apple-fennel slaw, spicy bread-and-butter pickles, and hot honey mustard. Russell mentions they’re going to keep things simple for the soft opening, and expanding the menu in time. They’re also talking about running weekly specials to see what the neighborhood really enjoys, like fried chicken Fridays.
Brunch time is when he’s going to really be able to show more of his New Orleans roots and cooking, with beignets, barbecue shrimp, deviled eggs, a soft-shell crab BLT, chicken and waffles, and French toast bites all being discussed for the brunch menu, which will launch in a couple weeks (Friday–Sunday). When the Elite Cafe closed after 38 years in 2019, Fillmore Street lost its New Orleans culinary outpost, so I’m happy to see a few notes of that vibe return (Matt also mentioned he’s looking at cornmeal fried oysters for the menu).
They have a spacious parklet along Clay Street, and a speaker for music, so it should be a fun spot for alfresco brunch or happy hour. With the Clay Theater reopening at some point across the street, Palmer’s will be a perfect spot for a bite and drink before or after a movie, and with Miette opening just next door, there’s a lot of fresh activity coming to this block.
Hours will be 4pm to close daily (like 10pm, maybe 1am on Sat), with daily happy hour, and when brunch launches in a couple weeks, they will open at noon Fri–Sun. 2298 Fillmore St. at Clay.
The Doors to Via Aurelia Open Tonight
Quick Bites, Including The Slanted Door Pop-Up
One of my favorite sandwich shops in the City, Limoncello, is going to be expanding to downtown with a third location of their popular deli this fall at 350 California St. at Sansome.
Great news: Original Joe’s will reopen its brand-new, 300-seat Walnut Creek location on October 1st, after a temporary closure due to a minor kitchen fire in mid-August, just four days after it opened (fortunately, no injuries occurred, and the damage was quickly contained). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Broadway Plaza, 1300 S Main St., Walnut Creek.
Bienvenido to Caldero on Union Street
By Olivia Casellini
A Spanish specialty foods store, Caldero, recently opened on Union Street in Cow Hollow in the former boutique, Anomie. Father-daughter duo Victoria and Juan Lozano launched the Spanish cuisine pop-up of the same name in 2023, and served a popular paella, which is part of their catering menu, along with tortilla española, pinchos, and more. The store serves as a hub for placing catering orders, and also sells items like imported cheeses, wines, and preserves, as well as Bay Area coffee beans, seasonings, and sauces.
Victoria used to run a Venezuelan popup, Andina, out of B-Side in Hayes Valley, which closed in March. In an Instagram post, Victoria shares, “The idea behind this store was to create a place that would bring great memories to my parents who had a Spanish restaurant in our hometown [in Rubio, Táchira, Venezuela] for over 25 years with the name El Caldero, and give my dad a chance to continue working in something he loves, at the same time I needed a way to show my gratitude and support to all those local small businesses in the city and give them a place to offer their incredible products, and that’s how we ended up with the idea of a specialty store, we will offer catering, cooking classes and private dinners as well.” Open Wed–Sat 12pm–6pm. 2149 Union St. at Webster.
This One Is for My Fellow Pizza Lovers
Okay, pizza fanatics and fellow friends on a budget, I have some deals and special pies for you this month! For the month of October, all locations of Doppio Zero throughout the Bay Area (at 395 Hayes St. in Hayes Valley, Mountain View, Campbell, San Carlos, and Concord) will be celebrating National Pizza Month with $10 Margherita pizzas every Monday night. And since the restaurants are VPN-certified (Associazione Pizza Napoletana certified), you will be getting a legit pizza napoletana.
You’d be hard-pressed to find a better happy hour deal than this new one at Palio in FiDi, who is celebrating their 35th anniversary this year by offering a $10 pizza Margherita AND Aperol spritz deal: come in Mon–Fri 3pm–6pm and Sat 5pm–8pm and you’ll be able to order a whole pizza and a spritz from the tap! Running now through November 26th. 640 Sacramento St.
Palio is also introducing a $35 prix-fixe, 3-course dinner menu (romana salad or salumi; pasta con ragù napoletano or pasta al salmon, and tiramisù for dessert). Available in the bar and lounge only Mon–Fri 2pm–6pm and Sat 5pm–8pm. And, in honor of National Pasta Day (Friday October 17th), they’re serving a one-night-only, $55 four-course pasta tasting menu...
Lastly, chef Kathy Fang (co-owner of Fang Restaurant and House of Nanking) is celebrating the release of the House of Nanking: Family Recipes from San Francisco's Favorite Chinese Restaurant cookbook with a special collab pie with pizza champion Tony Gemignani (Tony’s Pizza Napoletana): the Chinatown-Meets-North Beach Pizza. The 12-inch pie ($35) features classic American dough topped with Szechuan chili crisp, preserved mustard greens, lap cheong (Chinese sausage), hot bean sauce, Grande mozzarella, piped ricotta, garlic oil, and green onions. It’s available October 1st–5th, with a meet-and-greet and cookbook signing event on Wednesday October 1st from 5pm–6:30pm. 1570 Stockton St.
the lush
Help the Next Incarnation of The DeLuxe Reopen in Grand Style on Haight Street
I’ve been wanting to write a longer piece about the comeback story of Club Deluxe (which sadly closed in 2023) as The DeLuxe, from former Club Deluxe bartender and now co-owner Christian Beaulieu with Jay Bordeleau (Mr. Tipple’s Recording Studio), and share some cool history of the legacy bar, which dates back to the 1920s.
But, first things first: the gents launched a community SMBX investment fund, and since it’s only open for investment for nine more days, I wanted to post about the fund ASAP. Money raised through SMBX will help them significantly in the final push to cover construction costs, interior design elements, install their sound system, and buy their booze! Just think about all the amazing cocktails and good times you have had here—it’s amazing to think we get to do it all again!
This isn’t a GoFundMe. It’s a win-win investment: you help the team restore this legacy SF gem and earn passive income in return. Purchase DLUX Small Business Bonds (they start as low as $10) and investors will receive monthly payments at 10-percent interest (no matter how much you put in) over a 4-year period. If you invest at certain levels, you even get some great perks. Stand by for more from me soon about the restoration, timing, and more. For now, let’s help them get our favorite Haight Ashbury jazz club back open and swingin’! 1511 Haight St. at Ashbury.
Please Show Some Financial Support and Love for Our Disco Daddy
I was so dismayed to hear that one of our City’s most treasured DJs, archivists, collage makers, flyer creators, saucy email writers, and keepers of the disco flame, our Godfather of Bathhouse Disco, Bus Station John, sadly took a tumble in SoMa last week: “I tripped in the dark on a raised crack in the sidewalk on my way to the stud, shattering my left shoulder when i hit the cement. to add insult to (literal) injury, while still face down on the pavement in shock, i was robbed of my wallet by a passerby who’d initially approached me pretending to “help.” i underwent surgery last week to bolt my bones back together, and am facing a long, painful journey of recovery and physical therapy to regain the full use of my arm...so, sadly, no djing for me for many months to come. still, expenses like rent, bills and other survival essentials loom ahead.”
First of all, there is a very hot and miserable place for that absolutely vile excuse of a human being for stealing from our Disco Daddy after his fall, are you kidding me with that shit? And of all the kind people to do that to. I just can’t. (You can read a recent update from BSJ on his GoFundMe page.)
But what we can do is donate to BSJ’s GoFundMe since it will help diminish his worries and stress during this terrible setback so he can focus on healing. He is someone who has given SO MUCH back to San Francisco—I remember us talking about his idea for The Tubesteak Connection at Aunt Charlie’s Lounge at my kitchen table back in 2004, and it went on to become the longest continuously-running gay weekly party in SF nightlife (and will still be going strong, once he heals up)! This is one of those moments when we need to uplift and take care of our culture creators and guardians. Thank you for everything, we love you, BSJ! You’ll get through this. We gotchoo. XO 💋
the socialite
Here’s to Supporting Foodwise at One of the City’s Tastiest Gala Events: Sunday Supper!
Coming up on Sunday October 19th at the SF Ferry Building is the annual Foodwise Sunday Supper: A Farm to City Feast, a tradition for 20-plus years! The Sunday Supper gala is a celebration of the SF Bay Area food community, bringing together chefs, farmers, and food lovers for one of the most delicious and sustainable food events of the year. And it’s all for a good cause, raising critical funds for Foodwise farmers markets, food access initiatives, and education programs, which serve thousands of San Francisco kids and families.
30 of the Bay Area’s best restaurants will be cooking an epic meal together, including Michelin-starred and acclaimed favorites like Abacá, Acquerello, Californios, Delfina, Hilda and Jesse, Kin Khao, Nopa, Rich Table, Saison, Tiya, and many more, all featuring the best produce from small California farms at Foodwise’s Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.
I received a sneak peek of some of the dishes that will be served: from Californios: K&J apple empanada with Marcona almond and pixtle (mamey seed) ice cream, served alongside a champurrado; Mägo: maitake arepa with French butter pear and sazón of summer peppers; Reem’s California: ardi shawki mahshi (braised artichoke with maitake mushroom hashweh, preserved lemon, za’atar, Aleppo-spiced breadcrumbs and herbs); and Sorrel: smoked tomato with Monterey seaweeds and Santa Barbara sea urchin. Sign me up!
It all starts at an opening reception at 4:30pm with a behind-the-scenes view of the action-packed kitchen in the front plaza of the Ferry Building, with an abundant spread of hors d’oeuvres and cocktails. It’s always a fun party out there. 350 guests then go upstairs to the Grand Hall for a four-course communal feast (each menu is created by teams of chefs who collaboratively plan the meal using seasonal produce from local farms), with specially selected California wines.
There will be a live auction led by KCBS’s Liam “Foodie Chap” Mayclem, with curated packages from the Bay Area restaurant and farmers market community. One of the auction items includes a feast for 12 in your home by chef Kim Alter of Nightbird. Get that bidding arm ready!
Tickets: $400 ($250 is a tax-deductible donation to Foodwise), plus there are different levels of sponsorship. Get your ticket here. Sunday October 19th, 4:30pm–10pm. San Francisco Ferry Building (Embarcadero and Market St.).
Another Cool Diwali Event for You: Besharam Is Hosting Five Nights of Lights!
From Wednesday October 15th–19th, chef Heena Patel of Besharam is offering a six-course tasting menu for Diwali, inspired by her childhood holiday traditions (the menu will be vegetarian and feature her unique SF touches). Dishes include ghughra: crisp poori, tender coconut, lilo chevda crunch; usal: smoked jaggery broth, caramelized sweet potato, sprouted moong, walnut chutney; and khichdi: soft and slow-cooked yogurt rice, onion bharta, gunpowder potatoes, and for dessert: chum chum rose paneer, cardamom barfi, with nutmeg syrup. $95 per person, and wine pairings from beverage director Paresh Patel are $55 (their cocktails are also fantastic, plus non-alcoholic beverages too). Reserve on Resy. 🪔
