what’s cookin’
How was that rainy night for you? Hello, pineapple express! (I love a tropical storm.) So, this week’s column has a number of supporting subscriber–only stories, including an in-depth, exclusive preview of TBD izakaya from Ray Lee of AKIKOS and Friends Only, who’s collaborating with Tommy Cleary of the former Hina Yakitori. It’s opening in the original Akiko’s on Bush Street—here’s to many more memories of delicious meals there.
Another week, another badass sandwich! Today’s column has a writeup of a gem of a new Tunisian-owned sandwich shop, Gada, which you’re going to love—wait until you meet Moe. I have recent visits to some other new spots to share, but I ran out of time to write about them. Next week!
This Thursday is Gambero Rosso’s annual Tre Bicchieri wine tasting event, which means many of the Italian restaurants and wine bars in the City will be full of Italian winemakers and hosting special dinners this week. (I look forward to seeing lots of well-dressed Italians with good shoes.)
On Sunday evening, it’s James Beard Foundation’s Taste America®, a walk-around tasting event at Saluhall, with a stellar lineup of chefs, wines, spirits, and more. Read more in a previous tablehopper issue here. Tickets have sold out, but you can join the waitlist. Hope to see you there!
Let’s dive into this week’s column.
Cin cin!
~Marcia
the chatterbox
An Exclusive Preview of TBD, an Upscale Izakaya in the Original Akiko’s from Ray Lee and Hina Yakitori’s Tommy Cleary
Que Bonita: Maria Isabel Opens Next Week from the Dalida Duo, Bringing Coastal Mexican Cuisine to Presidio Heights
Last April, I was first to break the news that Dalida’s chefs-owners Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz had a new project called Maria Isabel coming to the former Ella’s American Kitchen in Presidio Heights (Ella’s opened in 1990, and was such a popular brunch spot for years, until it closed during the pandemic). I drove by the location last week, and this stylish restaurant really brings some glam to the corner! I’m so impressed they massively transformed the space in less than a year and are opening next Tuesday March 3rd.
Named in honor of Laura’s sister, Maria, and her mother, Isabel, this highly personal restaurant will highlight coastal Mexican cuisine inspired by Laura’s upbringing in Acapulco (in the coastal state of Guerrero), as well as some family roots in Sinaloa (think aguachile, chilorio, and machaca), adding local and seasonal ingredients and contemporary presentations.
The dishes will be evocative of family meals, and are designed to be shared (the menu is à la carte, with a family-style tasting menu for $90pp). Seafood dishes include grilled oysters with salsa borracha; aguachiles; and ceviches; along with a pulpo enamorado (“octopus in love”) tostada with grilled octopus, tomatoes, and serrano chiles; and a crab tortita ahogada, a small torta stuffed with crab, charred pineapple, and serrano chiles, with a guajillo and crab sauce.
They are nixtamalizing local corn and heirloom corn from Mexico for their own freshly made in-house masa, which will be used in tortillas, and dishes like tamalitos de maíz with sea urchin and roasted poblano crema, and a plato principale of chochoyotes and mushrooms: masa dumplings in a savory broth made from local mushrooms (and bone marrow served on the side). Save room for dessert: there’s a baked Acapulco, with coconut-mezcal sorbet, passion fruit, coconut cake, and saladitas (a Mexican saltine cracker).
The bar program—developed by consulting bar director Evan Williams, who is also at Dalida—will include a range of Mexican spirits beyond tequila and mezcal, like sotol, bacanora, raicilla, and lechuguilla, as well as gins and whiskies currently being produced in Mexico (with a focus on small-batch and Mexican-owned spirits).
Cocktails have nostalgic roots, like the Truchita (“little trout”), inspired by both the Paloma and the Salmoncito (a delicious cocktail made with gin, grapefruit juice, Campari, and tonic), here a carbonated drink with papaya seed–infused blanco tequila, clarified grapefruit skin cordial, Granada Vallet, and lime.
Wine director Jerry McGie (Nightbird, Frances, Osito) is assembling around 80 wine selections from California, as well as regions like Baja California and Querétaro in Mexico, and South America, with a focus on Chile and Argentina, and a commitment to highlight up-and-coming producers. All of the 15 wines by the glass (five whites, five reds, one orange, one rosé, and three sparkling) are made by female producers.
The stunning 50-seat restaurant was designed by Jenne Wicht of JAK W, which is divided into two dining rooms with different palettes (Maria’s room is pink, cream, and soft green, while Isabel’s features deep green and earthy browns), with wallpaper and a mural painted by Emily Parkinson, a hand-carved wood door, terrazzo floors, plates from HACHA Céramica in Jalisco, stoneware dishes from Oakland-based Sarah Kersten Studio, and blown glass from various artisans across Mexico. Reservations are open now, book a table while you can. Open Tue–Sat 5pm–9:30pm. 500 Presidio Ave. at California.
A Visit to a One-of-a-Kind, Tunisian-Influenced Sandwich Counter in the Castro
On Friday afternoon, I did a quick swing-by to Gada, a sandwich shop I mentioned in last week’s column that recently opened in the former Chadwick’s on Market Street in the Castro. This is the first food business from the gregarious, Tunisian-born owner Moe Abidi, who has so much passion for and pride in everything he’s offering and making. Shout-out to Moe’s girlfriend, who encouraged him to open his own shop (which he named after his mother). His menu is centered around raclette plates, sandwiches, and wraps on housemade melawi (unleavened Tunisian flatbread made with semolina, olive oil, and a touch of honey).
Owner Moe Abidi with freshly made melawi, and harissa from his hometown. Photos: © tablehopper.com.
Moe rolls out a ball of the melawi dough to order (he gives it a little drizzle of Tunisian olive oil) before placing the thin sheet onto a griddle, which puffs and browns the tender dough like a tortilla. The soft, flaky melawi is given a swipe of harissa from his hometown (Cap Bon), and is tempered by a slathering of sour cream (sometimes he uses “triangle cheese,” which is like Laughing Cow cheese).
2375 Market St. at Castro.
Some Updates on What’s New and Coming Soon
New Openings and Reopenings Around Town
Back in December, I wrote about the soft opening of Kissakeko in Nob Hill, a tiny kissaten (Japanese coffee bar), saké bar, and jazz “kissa” listening café, with vinyl records playing over listude speakers (the only ones in the country) made for them in Nara, Japan. They are now open Thu–Sat and Mon 1pm–8pm. Closed Sun, Tue, Wed. 1327 Mason St. at Jackson.
Also last December, supporting subscribers got the scoop...
the lush
Let’s Get Lit: New Neon and Bar Part Time’s New Project Will Serve Cocktails
Well, well, well, check out the new neon signage at Emperor Norton’s BoozeLand! Thanks to an SF Shines grant, co-owner Kevin DeMattia was inspired to hire Jim Rizzo of Neon Works and Al Barna and Randall Holman of San Francisco Neon walking tours to design and create new signage. SFist shares: “Randall custom-designed the lettering ‘Emperor Norton’ in a script based on the Emperor's handwriting, and the words ‘Boozeland’ in art deco script on either side of that.” Love to see it (instead of neon signs being replaced by LED, please stop). 510 Larkin St. at Turk.
The SF Chronicle reports the owners of wine bar/club Bar Part Time (Dan Small, Jeremy Castillo, and Justin Dolezal) are opening a nightclub called Downtime in the former Bissap Baobab on Mission Street. While they’ll be pouring zero-zero (ultra-unprocessed) natural wines, they’re also bringing on longtime Mission bartender Eric Ochoa (Dalva, ABV, Elda, Bar Agricole) to create cocktails for the club (woot!), and the couple behind Rose Pizzeria (Gerad Gobel and Alexis Rorabaugh) will be coming up with a food menu (not pizza!) as well. The target is a late fall opening. 2243 Mission St.
the socialite
This one is for my fellow cheese lovers: the 20th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival is Friday March 20th through Sunday March 22nd, with farm and producer tours, tasting seminars and workshops, a cheese crawl, and a Sunday marketplace, all in and around Sonoma County.
Some events and tastings are sold out (but there are still a few openings, act quickly!), and get your ticket to the Sunday Artisan Cheese Tasting and Marketplace at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa. You’ll be able to meet over 18 cheesemakers, and taste products from over 60 artisan producers of California cheese (including small-batch, limited production cheeses), wine, beer, ciders, and specialty foods. New to the Marketplace: JUST CREAMERY, Shared Cultures, Bonjerk, Amalgam Wines, The Caviar Co., and more.
A few of my past marketplace faves were the farmer’s cheeses from Valley Ford Co., San Geronimo from Nicasio Valley, smoked cheddar from Fiscalini, seasonal Laychee from Pennyroyal Farm, and pretty much the entire table from Achadinha Cheese Company. Be sure to pick up a 2026 California Cheese Trail map (for free!). It was a fun Gagliardi family outing, and we went antique shopping in Petaluma after the marketplace. Get outta town!
