what’s cookin’
Well, how was THAT for a gorg NorCal fall weekend? What a dream. I was so lucky to enjoy that stunning weather for my birthday festivities on Saturday—I was in the East Bay, and the timing aligned beautifully for me to pick up a guava chiffon cake and other tasty goodies (OMG the best banana pudding) from Honey & Pearl bakeshop’s new commissary kitchen in Emeryville. (I’ll be writing more about them real soon, but if you’re already sold, here’s their website for preorders!) I got to enjoy that cloud of a birthday cake with my dear besties after feasting on a huge insalata caprese with thin slices of mortadella (my fave). La dolce vita!
I headed back to The City for my impromptu birthday gathering on the patio of the SF Eagle, which was also a fundraising event for our sadly injured DJ Bus Station John. It was so fun to be able to just post up at a bar and have friends swing by after their wine dinners and Halloween parties. It may have been the first time there was Champagne served in an ice bucket on the patio at the Eagle, I cracked up. It ends up it was also Jeff the manager’s birthday (he’s the one behind the over-the-top Halloween décor they put up—leave it to a Scorpio!). Thank you, Darwin and Marc for co-hosting!
Sunday brought more bubbles with sis and friends, and then dinner at home with the fam in San Mateo (I requested my Dad’s smoked chicken, and my Mom made me a delicious carrot cake—we also got spoiled with decadent porcini mushrooms that my Dad’s friends foraged, heaven!). Cheers 🥂 to all my dear friends and family and disco pals and you fab readers for making this birthday so sweet after a rough-ass couple of months. Thank you.
The party continues this week: after our blustery storm, the skies should be clear for SF First Thursday Art Walk this Thursday November 6th! I’m going to hit up a few galleries and shops and pick up my monthly loaf of Leaven Worth from the Compton’s Cafeteria Riot set.
One show I’m definitely going to see is Jardin de Jewelz: Indoors, a collaborative two-woman show at Venus & Victory (824 Hyde St.), and visit their Cosmo Court Pop-Up Town Square (Wed–Fri 4pm–9pm) at 20 Cosmo Place. There will be a collaborative community mural, original artwork, prints, and some funky merch—proceeds from some of these items (after expenses) will go to Project Purple (a pancreatic cancer non-profit) in honor of their friend, Jewelz Tucker, who is battling Stage IV pancreatic cancer.
I want to make sure you know that the clock is loudly ticking for Tierra Vegetables—one of Sonoma County’s most beloved farms and an SF restaurant and farmers’ market favorite—which urgently needs our help. Here’s more from Foodwise: “After 45 years of sustainable farming, Wayne and Lee James may be forced to close their Santa Rosa farm, Tierra Vegetables, unless they can raise enough money to buy their farmland by December 1. Without financial support from our community, they risk losing everything they’ve built: the land they’ve sustainably stewarded for decades and all of its infrastructure, including a commercial kitchen.
“The siblings have many plans beyond purchasing the farm, from expanding their CSA program to passing on their legacy to the next generation. They’ve teamed up with award-winning Oakland chef Geoff Davis to take over the farm’s operations after they retire. But if they aren’t able to buy the land, this beloved farm will be lost. Donate to their GoFundMe now to secure Tierra Vegetables’ future, and read on to learn more.” There is a fundraising event this Sunday November 9th at Bar Gemini (sliding scale entry, 4pm–8pm, passed snacks and wines by the glass, all ages) and a Thanksgiving dinner at the farm. Please show up!
Don’t forget: this weekend is the return of La Cocina’s SF Street Food Festival, a two-day event with so much awesome food, music, cocktails, and more at Mission Rock; get all the details in this previous tablehopper issue here.
Did you vote? What a turnout! Last week, I was horrified to discover my monthly health insurance cost is going to triple, which is fucking insane and pretty devastating and utterly infuriating (this SFGATE article made me feel less alone). Many of us are looking at rising (or totally surging) premiums as open enrollment begins, and holding our breath while the ACA (Affordable Care Act) subsidies/premium tax credits are in danger of expiring, unless Congress acts to save them (read more in this informative NPR article).
If you’re a fellow freelancer or self-employed type with ever-changing income (um, hi), things can feel totally overwhelming and out of hand when you learn you are now responsible for paying back any and all premium assistance if you underestimate your projected income. Eeeeeee! I’m so glad I had the number of a local certified enroller whom I have worked with in the past, and he helped me figure out how to best navigate this health insurance shituation. (Supporting subscribers get his name and number!) Keep track of Covered California changes and updates here.
Lastly, and I’m sorry to end my intro on such a sad note, but I was so shocked to read this Instagram post that local architect and designer Olle Lundberg of Lundberg Design unexpectedly died on Halloween at the age of 71. Last week, I just wrote about his new book release and upcoming reading that was supposed to happen this Thursday. This is so terrible. Olle worked with Charles Phan on all of his restaurants and his private residence, and they collaborated on other residential projects as well. Lundberg Design designed numerous SF restaurants, including Flour + Water, Robin, Nari, and Mourad. He had many industry friends, and this really hurts when we’re still reeling over the death of Charles. Deep condolences to his wife, colleagues, clients, and wide circle of friends.
Hug your loved ones, celebrate them, spend time with them while you can.
With love,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
The Jupiter Room, an Upcoming Project from the Team Behind the Former Aphotic, Is Going to Be Out of This World
There’s finally some news about who’s taking over the former Lord Stanley at Polk and Broadway, and as someone who now lives nearby, I couldn’t be more thrilled with who got the space. After sadly closing the chic Aphotic in SoMa last year, chef Peter Hemsley formed the company Jackson Square Hospitality, with the incredibly talented Trevin Hutchins (Michelin named him the 2024 Exceptional Cocktails Award Winner) as bar director. Their first project as Jackson Square Hospitality will be Jupiter Room, a martini-focused bar with a playful spin on classic cocktails and nostalgia, with robust bar bites and late-night hours—it’s slated to open in summer 2026.
I caught up with Hemsley, who shared they wanted to take their time to find the right spot for their first project, undergoing a very selective process to finally decide upon this location at the intersection of the upscale Russian Hill and eclectic Polk Gulch (Hutchins lives nearby on the edge of Lower Nob Hill, and knows the area well). The institutional quality that was established in this location when it was Lord Stanley will continue, with warm hospitality and tuned service. The team is deeply guest-focused, and they want to know and serve the neighborhood and their industry friends well with this concept.
And that they will do, by being open seven nights a week, with nighttime food that should make industry folks happy to have something of quality in this central part of The City (the to-go window will be put to good use with late-night food). The menu is in development, taking inspiration from diner and steakhouse classics, which will be approachable with some cheffy fun—I did hear there will be shrimp cocktail, a favorite of Hutchins.
Hutchins wants to celebrate the golden era of cocktails, with well-crafted classics done his way. The bar’s name is a nod to Jerry Thomas, the flashy American bartender and saloon owner who was known as “the Jupiter Olympus of the bar.” In 1862, Thomas wrote the first drink book ever published in the United States, the Bar-Tender’s Guide (first known as How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivant’s Companion). Thomas created the eye-widening Blue Blazer cocktail at the El Dorado saloon and gambling hall here in SF, and his recipe for the Martinez (published in the 1887 edition of his guide) has sometimes been viewed as a precursor to the modern martini (via Wikipedia).
If you ever had a martini at Aphotic, then you know how obsessed Hutchins is with crafting them—at Jupiter Room, there will be a menu of eight martinis, including Julia Childs’ reverse martini (a low-ABV option). He will also be making well-crafted classics, made simply and thoughtfully, offering a respite from all the over-complicated cocktails with too many ingredients and techniques we’re seeing of late. I asked about the distilling license they used to have at Aphotic, but a return of his distilling program is TBD at this time.
After the closure of Aphotic, Hutchins started doing Jupiter Room pop-ups in Brooklyn, New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail, and at local bars like The Lone Palm and Propagation. He was having fun road-testing some high-low cocktail mashups, like a Cuba Libre Daiquiri, and the Hulk Smash, a play on the Incredible Hulk shot (made with Hpnotiq liqueur and Cognac).
Hutchins is a fellow history buff, and will be highlighting the story behind the phrase “a cup of Joe” (which came about when Secretary of the Navy Josephus Daniels banned alcohol on naval ships in 1914)—he’ll be featuring navy-strength gin served in a diner-style coffee cup.
They’re working with ROY Hospitality on the branding (which features planetary influences) and the interior, too. Hutchins is inspired by early and Mid-Century illustrated menu art (that makes two of us), and looking at the charming Jupiter Man illustration (developed with ROY and illustrator Jack Dylan from Meow House), it’s like a cosmic Blue Blazer!
The interior will feel timeless (like Harry’s Bar in Paris, Bix, and Brazenhead) and will span different eras, with a darker and cozy vibe that is built for nighttime (a departure from the airy and minimalist look of Lord Stanley). They’re opening the wall to the kitchen, and placing the backbar on the Broadway side (with the liquor bottles facing the street), and the new bar will extend to the kitchen line. There will be dark wood, vintage art, a mural (or fresco), and a photo booth, with higher seating (instead of low-slung lounging), and activating the mezzanine as well.
Like the interior style, the music will also span different eras and decades, and is all personally selected by Hutchins. It will be such a treat to have his vibrant energy and brilliant cocktails in the neighborhood. Stand by for more details in coming months. 2065 Polk St. at Broadway.
Sidebar: while I had him, I asked Hemsley about their upcoming plans for the former Kells Irish Restaurant and Bar building in Jackson Square, but there’s nothing to report at this time (except it’s looking like a project that will come in early 2027). He shared he has been enjoying the time to reorganize after closing Aphotic, and be with his family. Stay tuned!
New Openings Include Yuja and Blue Bottle Coffee
Back in August, tablehopper was first to cover the upcoming opening of Yuja, an Asian American–inspired bowl restaurant in Rincon Hill from chef-owner Jackie Shao, and she just had a ribbon-cutting and got the doors open, thanks to a grant from the Office of Economic & Workforce Development. Her healthy menu is focussed on five bowls and salads (Yuja teriyaki, Thai basil pork, shaking beef, miso pomegranate harvest, and kale chicken Caesar) made with local produce, blended grains, and responsibly sourced proteins from Brandt Beef and Lan-Roc Farms pork, plus housemade sauces.
There’s a frozen yogurt for dessert inspired by a nostalgic Chinese yogurt drink, plus craft beers, like Sugoi Brewing’s Indochine kumquat saison (featuring heirloom grains from Full Belly Farm), wines from female-founded Vino Disco, and non-alcoholic options, including Lucky Ox sparklers in flavors like matcha lemonade and coconut pandan. The former Nommo space is airy and welcoming, with handcrafted wood furniture built by Shao’s father from repurposed materials, and a gallery of colorful illustrations and risographs celebrating Asian culture. Open Mon–Sat 11am–9pm. 396 Harrison St.
The Potential Reopening of Castagnola’s in Fisherman’s Wharf
I forgot to link to this recent story in SFIST that reports Castagnola’s—the oldest continually operating restaurant in Fisherman’s Wharf (since 1916!)—is due to reopen after reaching a settlement deal with the Port of San Francisco. It has been closed since the beginning of the pandemic, and according to the terms of the settlement, it must reopen (or another restaurant on the premises) within a year. Fun trivia: Tomaso Castagnola is credited with inventing Crab Louie. 286 Jefferson St.
Unfortunate Closures Around the Bay, Including Two Iconic Queer Spaces
Well, the damn day has arrived: Bob’s Donuts has announced the final day in their original location on Polk Street is November 23rd, after 70 years! Be sure to read the post for the history of the shop and the families that have run it over the years. They’re shifting operations fully to their new and nearby location on the other side of the street at 1720 Polk Street. Thanks to Aaron Peskin, their donuts will continue to be in our lives, but no thanks to their landlord who make it financially unfeasible for them to stay in their longtime location. [flashing menacing Italian hand gestures] 1621 Polk St.
I came across some sad Sunday scrolling news on Instagram: after close to six years of being a creative, inspiring, stylish, queer-owned and -operated Uptown Oakland bar, restaurant, and community clubhouse, Friends and Family will be closing after their final dinner service December 30th. According to the post, they will still rent the space out for private events in January and February while looking for someone to take over the lease.
Eater SF goes into the specifics with owner Blake Cole, who talks about how even with all the accolades and press and adoration, they have been grappling with insurmountable debt and it continues to be a challenging financial situation. It’s such a shame—this is an important space for the community, and I wish the restaurant industry wasn’t such a goddamn grind. You can also read this personal post from executive chef Gaby Maeda, who came over from State Bird Provisions in 2024. Go say farewell, tip big. 468 25th St., Oakland.
After riding the open again (and now closed again) rollercoaster, Ginger’s—the sole queer bar in the Financial District—has closed again, according to this story by Camper English for SFGATE. You can read all about Ginger’s history in his piece—the historic bar first opened in 1978 on Eddy, and went on to open multiple locations (in the ’90s, I used to drink at the quirky Ginger’s Trois at 246 Kearny in the Financial District). I wrote about when the Future Bars group took over Ginger’s Trois in 2008, and closed it in 2009 to open Rickhouse in the location—and then they opened a new version of Ginger’s in the basement/storage area of Rickhouse in 2017 (you would enter the bar on Hardie Place).
After some pandemic thrashing, they got it back open just in time for Pride 2024, with the help of GM Dana Martinelli, who set up and promoted a bunch of weekly drag shows and queer parties in an attempt to rally community support and business, all while bartending—a tough and exhausting job, but some people know the special sauce. The SFGATE piece mentions Ginger’s could reopen if they find the right GM to keep it going (is it you?), but otherwise, Future Bars is likely going to flip the space into another concept. 86 Hardie Pl. at Kearny.
After 12 years, Bergerac, the bar, club, and lounge below Audio in SoMa, closed its doors this past Saturday November 1st. Their post alludes to something else coming to the space: “While we’re closing this chapter, we’re not saying goodbye for good. Something new and exciting is on the horizon, an all-new experience that will carry forward the same spirit of creativity and celebration that defined Bergerac from the start.” 316 11th St.
sponsored event
San Francisco Restaurant Week Is Underway, and This Is the Final Week to Dine Out!
Hey food lovers! Don’t miss out on San Francisco’s most exciting culinary event in the fall: San Francisco Restaurant Week (running through Sunday November 9th, 2025)!
Delectable weekend brunch? Indulgent five-star dinner? SF Restaurant Week brings you lunch and dinner options from over 200 restaurants, including Abacá, Besharam, Delfina, Early to Rise, Shuggie’s, TIYA, Trestle and more!
Restaurants are offering special prix-fixe menus at one or more of the following price points:
- brunch or lunch (2+ items or courses): $10, $15, $25, $35, $45
- dinner (3+ items or courses): $30, $45, $60, $75, $90
Visit sfrestaurantweek.com to see all participating restaurants and to make reservations. You have until November 9th to go dine out!
And don’t miss the SFRW closing brunch at Piccino Presidio this Sunday November 9th (11am–2:30pm) with an all-inclusive, three-course brunch menu, which includes two drinks! $95. Tickets available here.
the lush
Let The Snug on Fillmore Swap Your Sunday Scaries for Secret Sundays
Pssst. The Snug on Fillmore just launched a pretty sweet new promo, Secret Sundays, and if you have the weekly password, you get 50 percent off all drinks (cocktails, wine, beer, N/A, backbar pours like Eagle Rare’s Double Eagle very rare 20-year bourbon…everything). Wild, right?
Open Sundays from 12pm–10pm. 2301 Fillmore St.
the socialite
A New SF History Speaker Series Is Launching at the Redwood Room at The Clift
For my fellow SF history buffs: The Clift Royal Sonesta Hotel is launching a monthly speaker series: Making History Fun Again, with thought leaders, historians, writers, and cultural figures who embody the spirit of San Francisco. Every third Thursday (from 6pm–7pm), you can come by for cocktails, conversation, and culture in the hotel’s legendary Redwood Room (since 1915).
The inaugural event kicks off next Friday November 14th at 6pm, and Saturday November 15th at 5pm. Three authors and journalists will share untold SF stories: Ruth Carlson, travel journalist and author of Secret San Francisco; Maria Lenhart, award-winning travel writer and author of Lost Treasures of San Francisco; and Alec Scott, journalist and author of Oldest San Francisco. Free with RSVP. 495 Geary St.
You can order from a menu of classic SF cocktails, like pisco punch and a martini, as well as Night Moves (a Buena Vista–inspired espresso martini with Tullamore Dew whiskey, Averna, and Mr. Black Coffee Liqueur), and the Maiden Lane.
the archivist
Since today’s column mentions the new SF history series launching at the Redwood Room...
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