This week’s tablehopper: wrap it up! (free)

what’s cookin’

Whooooooo, I hope you got to bask in that stellar weather last week! I managed to punch the clock early on Friday and zipped off to Baker Beach for a couple hours before heading back home to get ready for The Bay Lights sunset cruise on the Dragon Lady (part of Jerry’s Fairies). I love that I have lived here for 31 years and the City still takes my breath away like it’s my first time seeing it. The night was so still and balmy, and the skyline and sunset behind the Golden Gate Bridge and sliver of a moon were all as captivating as the reflection of The Bay Lights twinkling on the water (which were like the never-ending flow of bubbles in my glass). Yeah, I need to post my videos on @tablehopper! I also had a blast meeting so many fun folks on the yacht—we were all looking at each other and saying, “Can you believe this?” Pinch pinch! Hashtag blessed!

It’s that time of year when I make sure to check my calendar before doing anything in SoMa because it’s the SF Giants Opening Week. This Wednesday March 25th is Major League Baseball’s opening night, with the Giants home against the New York Yankees (Can you feel the heated rivalry? LOL), and then Friday afternoon is opening day (first pitch is 1:35pm; the weather is going to be juuuust right—and now I’m thinking about trying to go!), and they wrap up the opening series on Saturday March 28th with a 4:15pm game. Plan accordingly, and let’s go Giants!

If you’re looking for something extra-tasty to eat nearby, Merkado will be serving their lechón (slow-roasted suckling pig) all three days in a chef taco or plate (and their Margaritas go with everything, including their back patio). ALSO: Eater SF just shared this roundup of what’s new at Oracle Park. Play ball!

Last week, I went to The Midway to see Peaches, and her full-force show was the badass shot in the arm we needed during the current hideous state of the world—she was avant-garde 26 years ago, and she’s shooting the barrel of another wave at 59. Can’t stop, won’t stop, unstoppable. She doesn’t give a fuck, yet gives all the fucks. What a great SF crowd, too. Peaches rocks! Thank you! And this Sunday is an EFUNK day party with Soul Clap and Sunshine Jones, see you there? 

A couple weeks ago, when I went to pick up my deeeeelicious pistachio Basque cheesecake from Lady Madrid (which I wrote about last week), I made it a double-play and swung by the newly open Falafelland just a block down Golden Gate Avenue for lunch. A couple months ago, I was admiring pictures of their falafel on Yelp, and after seeing Mayor Lurie give the place some shine as the first recipient of the Tenderloin Storefront Opportunity Grant Program, I wanted to check it out. The owner is an absolute gem—I hope you enjoy reading about his fantastic falafel in today’s column. I also have a revisit to Izzy’s (with the most glamorous date), some Passover picks, a special Sunday collaborative supper at Meski, news bites for you, and more. 

Hoppy spring. 🐣
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Gimme MORE! A Revisit to Izzy’s to Try New Executive Chef Cory Armenta’s Menu Updates

Last September, I wrote that the recently redesigned Izzy’s Steakhouse in the Marina now has Cory Armenta in place as the executive chef, and a few Fridays ago, I went in for an early dinner to check out his new menu with the glammiest dinner date, Juanita MORE! Armenta’s refined upgrade of the menu is really in line with the new elevated steakhouse décor and experience, so if you happened to go in the beginning of the relaunch, I’d definitely consider a revisit. 

I’m happy the timing of our dinner coincided with this March’s Women’s History Month, since DuVall Family Hospitality Group managing partner Samantha DuVall Bechtel is featuring the female-owned The Caviar Co. in Izzy’s caviar offerings (deviled eggs, oysters on the half shell, carpaccio, and full caviar service), as well as honoring the three generations of women behind Champagne J. Lassalle (the female somm team was pouring the Cachet d’Or by the glass), and the menu highlights Flannery Beef, now run by founder Bryan Flannery’s daughter, Katie. 

Start with the smoked steak tartare (served under a cloche of smoke that dramatically gets released at the table like a beefy genie), with a luxurious texture and punchy flavor from walnut oil salsa, bagna cauda, and confit egg yolk that gets mixed tableside ($25), and think about ordering a supplement of The Caviar Co. kaluga hybrid (one of my favorites of their lineup). More is MORE.

Things got extra-diabolical when we paired the decadent tartare with the roasted bone marrow ($19), dialed up with shallot jam, roasted garlic confit, and horseradish-lemon-caper gremolata—it’s one of the most savory bone marrow presentations I have ever tasted, and goes with a number of dishes on the menu.

We tried some first-of-the-season asparagus from Mexico (chef Armenta was eagerly awaiting the local harvest from Zuckerman’s Farm)—the chilled spears were served elegantly in a crème fraîche béarnaise with quail egg, shaved black truffle, and Meyer lemon from Samantha Bechtel’s own trees—Armenta said he tweaked an earlier Izzy’s recipe for this special béarnaise. So springy.

We split the 8 oz. Flannery Beef hanger steak ($46), grilled to a perfect medium rare, with thick-cut slices doused in Izzy’s signature marinade (an evolution of their classic au jus). The steaks and chops are served à la carte, with $9 sides that you add, like classic creamed spinach, and well-seasoned, house-cut steak fries.

A couple tips:

3345 Steiner St.

News Bites: Some New Openings and Pop-Ups

This Sunday Evening at Meski: What’s the 411?

Tired of being on your phone and taking pictures of your food? (Yeah, I hear you.) In that case, I have the perfect thing for you this Sunday March 29th at Meski in the TenderNob. Yay Area native and curator Ask JG? is hosting a night of Black culinary artistry, culture visibility, and community connection, bringing together chef Nelson German (Meski/alaMar Dominican Kitchen/Sobre Mesa) and Shawn Phillips of Tartufino for a collaborative menu. Instead of capturing everything on your phone, you’ll be connecting with fellow diners in person over a six-course tasting menu held in the intimate downstairs room at Meski, with the option of paired Caribbean cocktails.

Both chefs are preparing three courses each. Chef Nelson German’s dishes pay homage to his NYC/Washington Heights roots, and include an amuse bouche: Boogie in Coney Island: blue crab, salchichon ’nduja, avocado, malossol caviar, sesame cone; Afterwork Bodega Run: shoyu egg, aji amarillo, aged queso soubise, turkey sausage picadillo, kaiser roll crumble; and From The Heights to Canal: char siu duck, pigeon peas, coconut, spring peas, recaito, dirty rice chip. 

A sneak peek of Shawn Phillips’s dishes includes a snack of chicken and waffles (stroopwafel, chicken liver purée, onion jam, “hot honey”) and blackened fish, banana, and turnips. The dinner is $125 without wine or cocktail pairing, $165 with pairing. 5pm–9pm. Reserve here; please specify the size of your party, and remember to keep your phone stashed in your pocket or purse. Dress sharp, like you’re going to grandma’s on Sunday.

There’s also the option to hang out upstairs (no reservation needed) and order à la carte from a separate menu featuring four dishes from each chef ($30 and under), like Lemon Pepper Freestyle: agnolotti, confit chicken, lemon pepper beurre blanc, chicken skin; and Protect Ya Neck: braised lamb neck, succotash, pickled okra, lamb-porcini jus. And, you can order The BIG 3 (sambusas, tomahawk steak, or rasta pasta) from Meski’s regular menu. 1000 Larkin St. at Post.

Ways to Celebrate Passover, from Special Dinners to Matzoh Ball Soup and Macaroons 

Whoa, I can’t believe Passover is already rolling in next Wednesday April 1st (through April 9th), which means you need to place your order now for the Passover dinner to-go from Iggy’s Place (which includes their delicious matzoh ball soup, latkes, slow-cooked brisket, arugula beet salad, and roasted carrots over hummus). Order by March 29th for pick-up April 1st–3rd. You can DM them on Instagram or call to reserve. 3519 Balboa St. at 36th Ave., 415-425-7795.

Of course, Delfina will celebrate with a daily-changing menu (April 1st–4th) that will feature Passover dishes inspired by la cucina Ebraica, along with other modern takes on food from the Jewish diaspora. Some sample dishes include their edible seder plate (lamb osso bucco, FCF egg salad crostini, charoset, Upland cress and herbs); smoked trout, beets, Satsumas, and horseradish crème fraîche; the Stoll family matzo ball soup; piccolo bollito misto (tongue, brisket, capon with salsa verde, and mostarda); and wild nettle farfalle with kasha and mushrooms. Everything is à la carte, so you can choose your own Passover adventure. Please note: this is not a seder, and nothing is necessarily kosher for Passover.

And: Pizzeria Delfina is offering their much-adored Stoll Family Matzo Ball Soup—each matzo ball features a walnut in the center (it’s part of their tradition), so if you have a nut allergy, nut-free matzo balls are available upon request. The soup is sold frozen by the quart ($22) and is available for pickup at Delfina and all Pizzeria Delfina locations and delivery starting March 27th (preorders are open now), while supplies last. 

Perbacco celebrates Passover annually with a special four-course menu that will be available alongside their complete dinner menu from Wednesday April 1st–Saturday April 4th. Dishes include first-of-the-season asparagus from Zuckerman Farms, and this year will feature smoked and slow-roasted brisket. The Passover menu is $77 per person (beverages not included). There will be a selection of cocktails and Kosher wines for you to choose from. Reservations can be made by clicking here or calling 415-955-0663. 230 California St.

fresh meat

Falafelland Writes a New Chapter With Its Reopening in the Tenderloin, Where Kindness Is Wrapped Up in Every Dish

This one is for my fellow falafel fans. There have been some good falafel spots in the City over the years, sometimes they’re even great, but nothing has come close to the uniquely made falafel wrap I recently tried from Falafelland in the Tenderloin, because the primary ingredient in effusive Yemeni owner Billy Alabsi’s dishes is love.

He’s one of those hospitality naturals who makes you feel like family—he wants to offer you tastes, feed you well, host you warmly, and send you out the door with even more food. He will insist that you pour yourself a complimentary cup of his tart and fruity cascara shai (tea), made from the dried fruit and husks of coffee cherries, which he brews with cardamom and notes it has many health benefits. (He even gave me a container of his dry blend so I could brew some at home.)

As soon as I ordered my falafel wrap, Billy was showing me the special mix he developed, which he adds avocado and blueberries to (he said it was a happy accident that became his trademark). After the falafels took a spin in his enclosed fryer, he split the golden orb in half, topped it with his housemade hummus, a squirt of tahini, a sprinkle of sumac, and smiled broadly when I said I love hot sauce, and proudly presented me a perfect bite to try while he finished assembling my falafel wrap (I said it would make the best party hors d’oeuvre). The falafel was savory and fluffy and so tender—he shared that avocado prevents the falafel from disintegrating, and the raw blueberries keep it from drying out. As someone who eats blueberries almost daily, I’m here for it.

Watching him make the wrap, he told me he makes the creamy hummus every morning (he had me taste and compare two batches), and the rich tahini is housemade as well. I saw him scoop his flavorful Yemeni tomato and cucumber salad into a bowl, with cabbage, pickles, carrot, and he pointed out the pickled turnip, and after asking if I like olives, he cut green olives into the bowl before mixing it together. Once it’s all loaded onto the lavash, everything gets a sprinkling of sumac, and a hearty dousing of tahini, and as much hot sauce as you’d like. Welcome to flavor country.

When Billy started to scoop everything onto the lavash, I couldn’t believe the size of the wrap—it was absolutely humongous, easily two meals, for just $13.99. It required two pieces of foil to wrap it up, and when I came home, I weighed and measured the falafel baby: 1.9 lbs. and 9.5 inches. 

Over the years, I have loved the grilled lavash wraps at Truly Mediterranean (and the fried eggplant and potatoes you can add), but in this case, the soft lavash is the move. There’s so much flavor and tangy notes and texture from Billy’s special salad mix (the acidic zip in the tomato is a nice touch). I can’t wait to go back and have another wrap—it’s so fresh and lovingly made.

I also tried the lamb wrap ($17.99)—Billy warms up pre-cooked pieces of seasoned lamb in the microwave, and then breaks them up as he positions everything on the lavash. He asked if I wanted to add pomegranate molasses, and the correct answer is yes. The contrast of the tangy pickles against the rich lamb is so satisfying. Weirdly, I think I enjoyed my leftovers of this wrap even more after it was refrigerated and had a few hours to coalesce. (I also love cold leftover burritos from my years of going to Burning Man, so it’s kind of a thing for me.)

Also on the menu: a falafel and salad plate, salads, rice plates (like chicken and rice, vegetables and rice, lamb and rice, or falafel and rice), all ranging from $13.99–$19.99—the rice looked wonderful, so I’m coming back to try the chicken and rice next. Traditional Yemeni dishes include lamb saltah (a spiced meat broth topped with hilbeh fenugreek foam, which I am so curious about), and his hearty fasolia bean stew and comforting lentil soup are also available pre-packed in a fridge so you can warm them up at home.

For dessert, Billy created his own lightly sweet, Dubai chocolate–inspired spin on shaariya, a fried vermicelli dish that he adds honey, cardamom, and chocolate to, with ground pistachio on top, and he chills it like a pudding. (He offered me a taste, and then I bought a whole portion to bring home—I joked he’s a good food dealer, with the first hit for free.) Other desserts I want to try include his rawany (spiced and syrup-soaked semolina cake) and Yemeni sabaya (a layered cake of pastry with ghee and cardamom).

There’s a cozy seating area in the front that feels very residential, with Arabic majlis sofas (on wooden stands) and tablecloths with bright geometric patterns, where you’ll find happy customers who work in the neighborhood having their lunch. (I can imagine people hanging out and drinking his cascara shai on the sofas all day.) Since he’s a one-man show—and an absolute delight to chat with—I wouldn’t be in a rush for your order, even if you’re doing takeout (besides, fried-to-order falafel takes a moment).

Billy’s hospitality, generosity, and warmth are quite palpable—he gives with so much heart. I asked him why he enjoys feeding people so much, and he said he was the oldest of 10 siblings, and his mother was always taking care of other kids and feeding them. You can see how his upbringing informed how he treats people. He shared that he has lived in the Tenderloin for almost 38 years, and cares about making good, fresh food that is nourishing and affordable for the neighborhood.

He told me he first opened Falafelland with his wife on 6th Street (in 2018), and his business plans were tragically cut short by the pandemic shutdown. But now, he was able to restart and rehome his business into this Tenderloin location thanks to a grant he applied for from the Tenderloin Storefront Opportunity Grant Program—he’s the first recipient of the grant, and signed a three-year lease (read more in this SF Examiner story). 

While writing this feature, I found this touching piece in Mission Local about Billy’s work history and journey to opening the business, which has been rough to say the least. It makes his abundant generosity even more poignant when you learn how much he has struggled in recent years to support his family. When I was leaving his shop, he casually mentioned he has almost finished his PhD in general psychology and made sure I saw his business card about breath therapy. I said to him that whatever it is he’s doing, his exuberant and positive attitude stands testament to that it works.

Let’s help make this second go of his business the success story this kind-hearted and truly entrepreneurial man deserves. Go on a Tenderloin adventure and visit in person. Buy a falafel wrap for a friend (be a food dealer!). Order catering. And get ready to become a regular. Because, here’s the thing: his falafel wrap is really something—it’s as special as the man who’s making it. Open Mon–Fri 11am–5pm, Fri–Sat 10am–5pm. 265 Golden Gate Ave. at Hyde.

the lush

Don’t Miss Out on Early Bird Tickets to Wine Fare, and a Sad Farewell to Black Hammer Brewing

First, the fun news: mark your calendar for Wine Fare from The Vinguard on Saturday May 30th–Sunday May 31st at Catharine Clark Gallery (248 Utah St.)—as of now, 51 winemakers and importers will be featuring wines made by women in the natural wine movement. It’s a fantastic event! 

Now is your chance for early bird tickets (through March 31st!): $50 per day, $75 for both days, and $125 if you buy a ticket for both days and the Wine Fare Celebration Party at Wine Down on Saturday May 30th. 

Are you in F&B? Early bird food & beverage industry tickets are $45 for Saturday, $35 for Sunday, $65 for both days, and $90 for both days and the Wine Fare Celebration Party at Wine Down.

If you can’t make it but want to support, you can buy a pay-it-forward ticket. There are also benefactor tickets if you want to give The Vinguard an extra tax-deductible donation. See you there!

And now, the sad news: Broke-Ass Stuart caught the news that Black Hammer Brewing Company is sadly closing its doors after 11 years of business (since 2015). You have from now through April 3rd to cheers with their Burner-inspired brews like Sparkle Pony and Playa at their SoMa brewery. Their post mentions: “We’re rolling back our beer pricing to when we opened in August 2015 – all brews are $7…Our Final Safety 3rd DJ/Burning Man Party on Friday March 27th from 7pm - Close…April 3rd End of an Era Party featuring $5 pints all day and night, and 50% off all branded merchandise and glassware” (along with other offers and specials). Pour more than one out. 544 Bryant St.

the starlet

the archivist