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Jul 31, 2014 15 min read

August 1, 2014 - This week's tablehopper: high-low.

August  1, 2014 - This week's tablehopper: high-low.
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This week's tablehopper: high-low.                    

The exterior of Château du Sureau. Photo: ©

Bonjour. The weekend is almost here, and a bunch of industry folks are preparing for a big weekend of Eat Drink SF festivities. Three days of the grand tasting pavilion start this evening (remember, use code TABLEHOPPER for 15 percent off!), and tomorrow morning I’ll be moderating a demo with Fabio Viviani, see you? There are also classes and demos too. I’ll see you on the track! Fortunately the roof of my mouth has almost returned—I totally scorched it on a crazy-hot piece of pizza Tuesday night. Seriously, ow ow ow. Food writer injuries are the worst, I tell ya.

A couple of months ago, you may remember I took a trip to Yosemite and stayed at a dreamlike location, Château du Sureau. I was finally able to carve out some quiet time to get this jetsetter piece written for you, which I can’t wait to share. It was such an exquisite experience. If you’re looking for a special anniversary spot, a honeymoon location, or you just want to get out of town and pay a visit to glorious Yosemite, here’s your destination. (You can view the entire photo album here.)

I have to admit, I had one of the funniest experiences on the drive back to San Francisco after our time in fairyland. I was pretty tired from all the driving, and when I saw a drive-thru espresso spot in Merced, I let out a little whoop. Mama needed some fuel. When my friend and I pulled up, it took awhile for someone to come to the window—I was praying it wasn’t actually closed—and then the window slides open and I am greeted by a heavily made-up young woman (with colored contacts) in a practically sheer bra and panties with ribbons on the sides. It’s something like 3pm on a Saturday. It takes a lot to make me speechless, but this was, bar none, one of the weirdest moments I’ve had in years. I ordered our coffee drinks while trying to act like everything is completely normal, and gave her a good tip because I suddenly felt like I was actually at a table in a strip club, and not an espresso drive-thru.

My friend and I pull away, both of us cracking up and trying to figure out what the hell just happened (“Hold up, was she a working girl busy with a customer when we pulled up?”) and that’s when I looked back and saw the sign: Double Shot Espresso, with an outline of boobs fitting into two teacups, plus a lipstick kiss. Oh yeah, and there’s pink trim on the building. Ahem. After my friend did a quick internet search, we learned how this new “pick-me-up” spot (near the high school no less) was scandalizing Merced (kind of like all those places in the Northwest, like Cup of Joe). Oh, and according to Double Shot’s Facebook page, our girl was Janine. Of all the places to stop for coffee, I’m so glad it was this one. I’m still laughing over it.

Seems like a good time to segue to my article this week on about high-low dishes, with humble ingredients getting the high-end treatment. Ha!

Have a great weekend. Meep meep. Marcia Gagliardi

the jetsetter

Getaways (get outta dodge)

Château du Sureau and Yosemite, California


Our home in Mariposa. All photos: ©


Our former deli and pizzeria (now a Mexican restaurant).


The exterior of the Château du Sureau.


The sitting room/library in the Château du Sureau.


The stairs down to the pool at Château du Sureau.


The Elderberry Room.


An afternoon snack, brought to our room on arrival.


One of the chambermaids.


One of the dining rooms (at the end of the evening) at Erna’s Elderberry House Restaurant.


Amuse of arctic char, pickled mustard seed, cucumber gelée, and trout roe.


The creative and delicious beet salad.


A look into grand Yosemite Valley.


When was the last time you were in a meadow?


The incomparable dining room at The Ahwahnee.


A prime rib feast at The Ahwahnee.


The library at the Villa Sureau.

I may have been living in San Francisco for the past 20 years, but there is a country mouse side to this city mouse. Back when I was in the middle of third grade, my family packed up our life in San Mateo to move to Gold Country. We landed in Mariposa, not far from Yosemite National Park, where my parents bought 69 acres; they planned to build our dream home on the land, with our family friend as the architect. My father manifested his dream of getting out of the burbs and opening a pizzeria and delicatessen. My mother worked as an R.N. at a nearby hospital, and still managed to cook all our meals, make our clothes (it was that or order clothes from the Sears catalog for delivery into the depot in town—they wouldn’t even deliver to your house), and she also learned how to kill rattlesnakes (thanks Mom, good save that one afternoon).

We were there for three years, and while it didn’t pan out—it ends up Mariposa wasn’t quite ready for spicy coppa and imported Italian wine—and we had to move back to the Peninsula, our time there made for a really sweet period in our lives, especially for me and my sis. We had dirt bikes, a huge yard, dogs and cats and a horse, and we got to run around and unleash our inner tomboys. I’m ever grateful for those years living in Gold Country, they were such a vivid part of my childhood.

Some years later, I remember my parents going back up to Yosemite for a big wedding anniversary dinner, and they dined at a very special place, ERNA’S ELDERBERRY HOUSE RESTAURANT. (It’s the kind of name that stays with you.) Flash forward to one evening at Gary Danko a few years ago, when a charming young lady from the staff and I put together that we both had connections to Gold Country—and look at that, her mother was the Erna of Erna’s Elderberry House Restaurant in Oakhurst.

And then let’s flash back to not too long ago, when I received a very kind invitation from the lovely Erna Kubin-Clanin to come experience a meal at Erna’s Elderberry House, and to stay at the CHÂTEAU DU SUREAU. I couldn’t believe it—of course I called my parents immediately since they have such a treasured memory of the restaurant (the château was not built yet when they dined there).

Now, for anyone who has ever been to Yosemite, you may remember passing through Oakhurst, which is full of antique stores, big chain drugstores, and plenty of fast food. So to say that there is one of the most exquisite properties I have ever visited in the United States, a château that felt like it was transported from Europe lock, stock, and barrel (including the staff) and dropped off in Oakhurst of all places, well, that’s kind of what happened.

Ms. Erna is the most divine hostess, born in Vienna, and as soon as you get a look at her, you’ll be enchanted. She is so stylish and chic, with her fabulous French glasses, svelte figure, and tasteful high heels. She has a soothing and charming voice, full of kind words and comments. Ms. Erna is the kind of host who can handle diplomats and country folk with equal ease.

As soon as you pass through the gates to the château, it seems incredible that you are actually in dusty Gold Country. The place is an oasis of beauty, full of flowers and gorgeous landscaping. While many guests travel from far and wide to dine at Erna’s Elderberry House, the 10-room Château du Sureau (opened in 1991) also has an impeccable reputation. Not only is it a Relais & Châteaux property (since 1993), but it has won many other awards as well, from being a five-star Forbes Travel Guide property for more than 18 years to its five diamonds from AAA since 1992. And here’s why: Erna has a deep love for beauty, hospitality, and the finer things in life, and it shows in every corner and square inch of the property.

The two nights my friend and I spent there were like a shot in the arm of European class and elegance. The château is filled with antiques Erna found abroad, with tapestries, artwork, and unique pieces everywhere, along with fresh flowers and orchids too. Fresh lemonade sits out for guests. Oh, and how can you not love the chambermaids flitting about the property with their white aprons? I felt like I was going back in time. The staff is incredibly gracious.

All the 10 rooms are different; our room (The Elderberry Room) had exposed beams and a canopy bed (complete with a feather duvet and silky ironed linens, oh you know it). The room was mercifully devoid of a TV, a fireplace taking its place. It was actually pretty challenging (in a charming way) to find a place to plug in my iPhone and iPad by the bed (it would be better to write a letter to a friend on the château’s stationery). The spacious bathroom came with French tiles, and a soaking tub that I wish I had made time to enjoy.

On arrival, we were greeted with an afternoon snack in our room (tea sandwiches of housemade ricotta, cucumber, and beet on housemade bread, plus a tasty little almond cake) and two glasses of sparkling wine. (That’ll do fine, why thank you.) When we made our way down to the pool for an afternoon dip, we were offered more pink bubbles to enjoy poolside. (Careful, Marcia, don’t get to used to this…)

When it was time for dinner, it was an easy stroll through the gardens to Erna’s Elderberry House Restaurant, which opened in 1984. It has a French country look, with a trio of rooms (the Escoffier, Point, and Paul Bocuse rooms) full of fabric and old-world charm, plus a garden terrace (if you sit near the windows, your view is framed with flowers).

Before Erna was overseeing all aspects of the property, she was the chef and managing owner (her husband René owns it with her)—she now has chef de cuisine Jonathon Perkins overseeing the kitchen. Her first restaurant was Scorpio’s in Westwood (Los Angeles), and she then became known in the Sierras in 1977, when she cooked at The Redwood Inn next to the Wawona Hotel for six years, offering a five-course meal of nouvelle and European cuisine. She was a trailblazer in the area for sure.

My guest and I enjoyed an elegant five-course meal ($108, $78 wine pairings), full of seasonal and well-prepared ingredients, along with a few modern techniques too (dessert featured some coconut “snow”). Our amuse was stunning: arctic char, pickled mustard seed, cucumber gelée, and trout roe, and a fragrant cauliflower soup had fascinating ribbons of flavor, with apricot chutney, curry oil, cilantro, and toasted almonds.

I also loved the old-world touch of serving the salad after the meat course, and the presentation was so inventive: the heirloom beet salad came with field greens with a thyme and lavender vinaigrette, and there was a scoop of a chèvre mousse with beet whipped in (it was the most gorgeous color), as well as Bull’s Blood beet purée and mulberries on the plate.

A few dishes had components that were a bit strong, like the Tahitian vanilla jus that dominated the milk-poached veal loin, but otherwise I could not believe I was having this elevated dining experience in Oakhurst of all places, and not some beautiful château in France. Pastry chef Kyle Waller’s dessert of milk chocolate panna cotta would fit right into most of San Francisco’s fine dining rooms. (They are many more photos here.)

You can see how much training the staff has had (it’s not like there’s a big pool of employees trained in fine dining service in the area), and we also had some excellent wine service and pairings (from Sinskey’s Abraxas to the Azelia “Bricco Fiasco” Barolo). It was one of those “somebody please pinch me” moments when we were able to walk back down the garden path after dinner and fall into our feather bed for a night of deep sleep. While the “full board” experience is part of the charm of staying in this fairy-tale place, you can also just come to Erna’s Elderberry House Restaurant for dinner—you don’t need to be a guest of the château.

They also host a three-day cooking school twice a year, and many themed meals, including the annual Evening in Vienna dinner, with music. I’d subscribe to the newsletter to keep up on the happenings (and special offers) in case you are mulling over taking a trip to Yosemite. (How long has it been? When was the last time you walked through a meadow? It was far too long for me.)

While it’s very hard to leave the kingdom for the day (trust), we got up early to make our way to the other kingdom: Yosemite. It’s a short drive to the South Gate from the château, and the staff kindly packed us a picnic lunch to enjoy in the park. We also had a fabulous breakfast on the terrace before we headed out for the day that we were going to need to hike off: freshly made croissants and brioche with housemade jam, marmalade, and thick pats of butter, plus a European-style platter of meats and cheeses, a ramekin of egg frittata topped with ratatouille, and excellent coffee.

Our day in Yosemite was pure magic—we were there in mid-May, so we had beautiful springlike weather and the falls were running. We spent the day walking the trails around the majestic valley floor, and since it was a Friday, we didn’t have to deal with a crush of humanity. We had our picnic lunch next to the Merced River, such a dreamy spot.

We ended our epic day with bubbles on the back terrace at the Ahwahnee Hotel and were invited to stay for dinner. Is there a more jaw-dropping dining room, with its 34-foot-high beamed ceiling and hulking granite pillars? Of course you end up thinking about The Shining half the time (Kubrick’s set designer mimicked many elements of the Ahwahnee for the Overlook Hotel).

We got a kick out of our jacketed server, who handled the huge pepper grinder with aplomb, and I’d say sticking with simpler classics is the move here, like roasted Brussels sprouts ($15). It’s all about the prime rib ($42-$48) with Yorkshire pudding; some of the other dishes were too much of a reach, like my friend’s lobster and coconut bisque. I can imagine the setting for Sunday brunch is fabulous.

I wouldn’t recommend the long drive back to the Château du Sureau after a late dinner like ours to many people—fortunately I love driving mountain roads and so does my Fiat. But it was definitely a haul in the darkness after such a big day. Again, that feather duvet was waiting for me at the end, a strong motivator to get back safely.

The next morning we enjoyed a more leisurely start, with breakfast on the terrace once again (hello, croissant, I was missing you), a last dip in the pool, and a walk around the grounds. A newer addition to the property is the Spa Sureau and the Villa Sureau, which we were lucky to get a peek at since they were in between guests.

Because Ms. Erna just doesn’t stop, she created this secluded and private manor house in 1999, full of turn-of-the-century antiques (her husband René helped restore many of the treasures), a marble tub, a baby grand piano, and two bedrooms in its spacious 2,000-square-foot footprint. It’s grand, daaahling, and for those who can afford a stay there (it’s $2,950 a night), it’s a very singular spot where you can effectively play out a manor-born fantasy. Just gorgeous.

A visit to the Château du Sureau and Erna’s Elderberry House Restaurant is a unique one, because its particular kind of luxury is so personal. Fortunately the elegant and visionary Ms. Erna wanted to create and share her world of cosmopolitan flair and grace—it so obviously (and thankfully) couldn’t be contained.

You can view my entire photo album of our weekend getaway here. Trust me, you want to look!

707 scout

Wine Country Buzz (it’s what happens there)

SEA Thai Noodle Bar Opens, Betty Spaghetti, Cider Showdown


Hand rolls at SEA Thai Bistro Noodle Bar in Santa Rosa. Photo courtesy of Heather Irwin.


Dungeness crab puffs at SEA Thai Bistro Noodle Bar in Santa Rosa. Photo courtesy of Heather Irwin.


Pot stickers with pork belly and jicama at SEA Thai Bistro Noodle Bar in Santa Rosa. Photo courtesy of Heather Irwin.

By 707 correspondent Heather Irwin. Sign up for the BiteClub Newsletter.

SEA Thai Noodle Bar Opens: We’ve been finding ourselves spending more and more time at the revamped Coddingtown Mall, eating our way through all the new restaurants making their way to the North Bay. Our favorite, however, has to be local chef Tony Ounpamornchai’s newest venture, SEA THAI BISTRO NOODLE BAR. Opening just last week, it’s the third SEA Thai restaurant (there are also locations at Montgomery Village and Corte Madera), but by far the best. The “Southeast Asian comfort food” menu is built around large bowls of noodle soups, curries, rice bowls, small bites, and salads.

A master of fusing Southeast Asian flavors with Wine Country ingredients, Ounpamornchai has created a more casual menu and dining experience; the simple wood tables are a convenient platform for slurping and sharing.

The menu is still evolving, but the best bets are the Drunken Man Noodles (flat noodles with chicken, Thai chiles, Chinese broccoli, and a healthy splash of Johnny Walker); a sumptuous lamb curry with sugar snap peas in creamy coconut milk; a rice bowl with pan-roasted Liberty Farms duck, pickled ginger, yu choy, and sweet soy sauce; pot stickers with jicama and pork belly; and Dungeness crab puffs with spicy bacon aioli and plum sauce.

There’s lots to love on the dessert menu, such as crème caramel with sweet cherries, and there’s an extensive wine list too. Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 11am-8pm, and Sun 11am-6pm. At the Coddingtown Mall, 2323 Sonoma Ave., Santa Rosa (north main entrance near BJ’s Brewhouse), 707-528-8333.

Hey, Betty: Is Guerneville getting more fun by the moment or what? The recently revamped Russian River Resort (R3) is now home to BETTY SPAGHETTI, a casual bistro with a patio. Owned by chef Greg Barnes and his partner, Darrel Hutchison, the Cal-Ital menu includes such noshes as batter-dipped green beans with ranch dressing ($9), polenta cakes ($8), burrata with arugula ($9), Tuscan kale salad ($10), sausage pizza ($15), spaghetti and meatballs, natch ($19), orecchiette with goat cheese ($16), steamed mussels ($18), and a rib-eye steak ($29). Poolside, they serve up burgers, hot dogs, carnitas tacos, sweet tea, and fries for bathing beauties and sun gods. 16390 Fourth St., Guerneville, 707-869-8399.

Cider Showdown: In case you haven’t heard, craft cider is the new craft beer, and California’s North Coast is at the heart of the movement. No one knows that better than Sonoma County’s own Ellen Cavalli of TILTED SHED CIDERWORKS, a family-run cidery making use of lost apple varieties from West County. She’ll host a bicoastal tasting of small-batch ciders at SHED Healdsburg on Sunday August 3rd at 3-5pm. The workshop includes a tasting of six ciders (including Tilted Shed and Devoto Orchards Cider) paired with cheeses from Gypsy Cheese Co. and Weirauch Farm & Creamery. 25 North St. at Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-7433. Tickets are $50 and available online; 21 and over.

Kids, Dogs and Cheese: What pairs best with Yorkville Highlands wines? On Saturday August 2nd, the annual YORKVILLE HIGHLANDS WINE FESTIVAL welcomes the whole family (including Fido) for a day of grape stomping, barrel rolling, barbecue, and more than 60 Yorkville Highlands and Mendocino Ridge wines. The festival is hosted by Meyer Family Cellars, near Boonville in Mendocino County. Proceeds help to support the local fire department. Tickets available online; $50, $30 for designated drivers and kids 13-18, children 12 and under free.

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