January 23, 2018 - This week's tablehopper: how much salumi is too much salumi?

This week's tablehopper: how much salumi is too much salumi?                    

Have you experienced lunch at Izakaya Rintaro? You should. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Hello my fellow food lovers. I know this past weekend was a busy one for a lot of folks in the biz, with both the Good Food Awards and Fancy Food Show happening (and many food industry peeps visiting from out of town and trying to score reservations at the city’s hottest restaurants). Friday night was the Good Food Awards, complete with vegan protestors taking the stage (with one of them escorted offstage by Alice Waters herself—I guess that counts for double points?!), with mountains of cheese and salumi at the after-party (I guess that’s negative points for the vegans?).

You can see the list of the 2018 winners here, and I posted some pics of some fabulous new product discoveries from the Good Food Awards mercantile I attended on Saturday. Here’s to all the makers!

Saturday night, I got dolled up with my fellow vintage SF-loving friend (I swear, we must have been friends in the 1940s) and went to check out the renovated Fisherman’s Grotto on the Wharf, now known as The Grotto. We enjoyed some Wharf classic dishes (great Louie and cioppino) and their fish and chips is tops. The space looks fantastic. We’ll be back for live music in the Sinatra Lounge one of these upcoming Tuesdays, see you there.

Sunday Funday evening was all about the Italians, starting with an aperitivo party with Manicaretti Italian Foods to celebrate founder Rolando Beramendi’s new Autentico cookbook (and taste lots of magical olio nuovo), followed by Casa de Case’s annual warehouse dinner party, featuring their imported Italian products, with many of the producers in the house! (And the local restaurants and chefs that use their products at the table.) What a night.

You know what was also amazing? Seeing so many of you at our Pencils for Kids fundraiser last week! Thank you all so much for your support—we had a full house, and the food and drinks and wines were fantastic. Thanks so much to everyone who helped raise money to support the education of so many children in Bali, Myanmar, and Thailand! You warmed my heart! If you can all please support our event partners, that would be so appreciated. They were so generous.

This week, I have plenty to keep you as busy as me. I hope you’re hungry—or you’re about to become hungry. Marcia Gagliardi

the chatterbox

Gossip & News (the word on the street)

Ippudo Opens Their SF Location on Yerba Buena Lane

Well, SF, Berkeley may have got their Ippudo ramen house first, but you finally get your very own. IPPUDO, the famed ramen restaurant most of us West Coasters could previously only indulge in while in New York, is coming to SF. (The chain was started by Ramen King Shigemi Kawahara in 1985, with just a 10-seat ramen house—it now has more than 160 restaurants worldwide.) The official opening is Sunday January 28th, but in the meantime, they are hosting soft opening hours and a limited menu. They just finished the lunch soft opening, and now you can come by Jan. 25th-27th (dinner only, 5pm-10pm).

The 86-seat location is on Yerba Buena Lane and is considered their “first full ramen fine dining experience on the West Coast,” which means it features an expanded menu of Hakata tonkotsu (pork) ramen with an 18-hour broth and handmade noodles (there are also non-pork, gluten-free, and vegetarian and vegan ramen options, and you can choose classic to spicy, plus toppings, and desired noodle texture too). There will be izakaya-style dishes—including steamed buns (pork, chicken, vegetable) and Goma Q (cucumbers seasoned with their house original sesame oil sauce)—as well as wine, beer, Japanese cocktails, aperitifs, and premium sake.

It has an eye-catching look, with a sake bar, a Hiragana alphabet wall and a large Chochin lantern. Hours will be Mon-Fri 11am-3pm and dinner 5pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. 18 Yerba Buena Lane at Market.

Coming Soon: Shake Shack to Bay Area, Tartine to Downtown

If you follow @tablehopper on Twitter, you may have already read the news that Union Square Hospitality Group’s SHAKE SHACK is opening their first SF Bay Area location in Palo Alto at Stanford Shopping Center, due fall 2018. Also teased in the press release will be potential locations in the Marina District of San Francisco and Marin County. On the menu: their 100 percent all-natural Angus beef burgers, chicken sandwiches, and griddled flat-top dogs (no hormones or antibiotics), plus fresh-made frozen custard, crinkle-cut fries, craft beer, wine, and more.

Also in massive expansion mode is TARTINE BAKERY, which is not only expanding with a Tartine Manufactory in LA and more locations in Seoul, plus the Manufactory Food Hall in SFO, but they also have plans for the former 398 Brasserie location downtown here in SF (in the Hotel G). Eater caught the ABC license transfer and revealed Tartine was originally partnering with chef April Bloomfield (which would include business partner Ken Friedman), but with the fallout from allegations of Friedman’s sexual harassment of employees, Tartine has ended the partnership. We’ll have to wait and see what Tartine’s Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt come up with next for the location. 398 Geary St. at Mason.

Sneak Peek of The Board (Opening February 1st, from Adam Mesnick of Deli Board)

Do you follow @tablehopper on Instagram? If so, I was probably torturing you yesterday with a pic of my breakfast sandwich from the soon-to-open THE BOARD, another daytime sandwich spot from Adam Mesnick of Deli Board (he also was behind 1058 Hoagie and Rye Project). He’s opening The Board on Thursday February 1st in the former Fenix/TBD space in SoMa and will be offering breakfast and lunchy sandwich options, with some new combos and an eye on affordability.

Let’s talk breakfast first. Mesnick has the egg on a roll down pat, complete with runny egg, American cheese, and your choice of a poppy or sesame roll from Panorama. Or maybe you want a sausage patty instead of crisp and smoky bacon, or avocado…or Muenster cheese or… There are so many possible combos. Take your pick from the different sections, and luckily all the breakfast sandwiches come with his house Board sauce (all $9—which I find about a buck or two too high, but that’s SF).

And then there’s the everything bagel he’s flying in from New York (it’s a secret—trust, I tried to find out where), and then baking them off in the morning. I just want to say it’s one of the better bagel egg sandwiches I’ve had in town—it had so much flavor! That bagel will hit the spot, I’m telling you. Great texture. It made me happy. It tasted like New York! So yeah, I’ll pay $9 for a BEC with that bagel and a sausage patty.

He’s also going to be working out that griddle with grilled cheese sandwiches, plus a Board cheesesteak ($12) with a little onion, white American cheese, cherry peppers, Board sauce, on an Amoroso roll; his East Coast Italian style-hoagie (which I love), the #1, with Genoa salami, capicola, mortadella, provolone, cherry peppers, shredduce, salt and pepper, onion, and house dressing. There will also be falafel ($11), a hot dog ($6-$7), salads ($9-$12), soups ($4), and sides, including Board rolls (2 for $7). And don’t tell your cardiologist about the pepperoni, provolone, and marinara—all fried in an egg roll wrap. You’ll always want to check the board for specials. A cheeseburger is also in the works.

There are a lot of seats available, 48 total, and outdoor seating will be coming too. He designed the space to look like a classic diner/luncheonette, with subway tile, Deco pendant lights, and other vintage touches. Hours will be Mon-Fri 9:30am-2:30pm. 1077 Mission St. at 7th St.

This Week in Sexual Harassment News...

I have a few updates for you on the local sexual harrassment stories that need to be followed. First, it looks like FOUR BARREL COFFEE settled the sexual harassment lawsuit out of court for an undisclosed amount (via SFGate), and it also ends up remaining partners Tal Mor and Jodi Geren have decided they will not be changing their name to The Tide after all (a response to employee feedback). And according to this tweet from @sassy__barista, it looks like they have had to lay some employees off (in wholesale) as they attempt to stabilize the business, and are moving the roastery back to Valencia Street. Next: watching their path to divest and becoming 100 percent employee-owned.

Meanwhile, the managers at BOOT AND SHOE SERVICE in Oakland picketed and protested on Saturday that owner Charlie Hallowell—accused of sexual harassment by numerous employees—needed to divest from the company or they would resign. Since he didn’t respond, numerous employees have since quit (The Chronicle reports three managers and chefs quit on Sunday, with others planning to quit in coming days, including male employees).

New Chef (at Contrada), New Owners (at Dobbs Ferry)

A couple of quick notes: over at CONTRADA in Cow Hollow, opening chef Jason Tuley has moved on after one year, and Denise St. Onge is the new executive chef, making it an all-female management team. Go ladies. St. Onge’s background includes Michael Mina, Gary Danko, and most recently at SPQR as pasta cook, butcher, and eventually sous chef. Look for some vegan and gluten-free offerings (including pizza) and handmade pastas. 2136 Union St. at Webster, 415-926-8916.

Over in Hayes Valley, Steven Izzo, Waterbar’s former wine director, and his wife, Lee Ann Frahm, also a Waterbar alum, have taken over DOBBS FERRY and will be overseeing the daily operations. This is their first restaurant venture. Changes are coming to the menu, plus the wine, beer, and cocktail programs. Executive chef Mike Yakura will remain in place, along with the restaurant staff. You can keep track of recent updates on their Instagram feed. Congrats Steve and Lee Ann—I know the wine list will rock. 409 Gough St. at Hayes, 415-551-7700.

Lunch Launched at Prubechu, Coming February 5th to International Smoke

Looking for some new lunch options? The fine folks at PRUBECHU in the Mission have put together a lunch menu, featuring some dishes from their à la carte menu. You can order their Chamorro empanada, or caramelized potato soup, or tinaktak (coconut-braised beef and noodles). And the red rice bowl with smoked pork sounds like a winner. And there are so many beers. Open Tue-Sat 11:30am-2pm. 2847 Mission St. at  415-952-3654.

Starting Monday February 5th, Ayesha Curry and Michael Mina’s hyped American barbecue restaurant, INTERNATIONAL SMOKE, will start serving lunch Monday-Friday 11:30am-2pm. If you have been trying to get a reservation, there’s one way to get in and check it out—there are some tables open in mid-February. 301 Mission St. at Fremont.

Closures: Park Chow (After 20 Years!), Brasserie Saint James, The Vestry, The Fine Mousse, More

Some closures around town, including old-timer PARK CHOW, which closed on Sunday January 19th after 20 years of business. A neighbor gave me a heads-up that owner Tony Gulisano decided to move on and focus his energy on the upcoming opening of Chow Oakland Cafe, Bakery & Market. You can read more in his letter on their site, and they are hosting a little reception for regulars this coming Sunday January 28th. 1240 9th Ave. at Lincoln.

After almost two years on Valencia, the restaurant and brewery BRASSERIE SAINT JAMES decided to close over the holidays. Eater reports they were planning a renovation (the space was previously Abbot’s Cellar), but after reviewing the numbers, they decided to close. Some larger restaurant groups are reportedly interested in the space. 742 Valencia St. at 18th St.

Just across the street, the live music venue The Chapel has closed their 85-seat restaurant, THE VESTRY. The Eater post mentions they will be launching a new restaurant concept in the space, so stand by.

Up on Nob Hill, the Champagne and fries bar THE FINE MOUSSE is closing this Saturday January 27th (UPDATE: they are now open through Saturday February 3rd!), after more than two years in business. If you come by this week, you’ll get free fries with every bottle purchased. A press release mentions coffee roaster Megafauna will be popping up in mid-February, a project from Avery Burke of The Temporarium (he’s building out a shop in Upper Market and this will be an interim sneak peek until it’s ready to open!). 1098 Jackson St. at Taylor.

Since we’re talking about Upper Market, THE MYRIAD FOOD HALL is closing February 28th. If you had a favorite vendor, check in and see if they will be landing elsewhere; Hoodline reports Bunn Mike will be moving to North Beach (752 Columbus Ave.). 2175 Market St. at 15th St.

Tasty Food Events and More for Your Consideration

This week marks the kickoff for SF Restaurant Week (maybe you noticed their ad in tablehopper—we appreciate their support!) and it’s your chance to experience a variety of restaurants through the special menus they’re offering for lunch ($25) and dinner ($40 or $65)! You can peek at the menus here, and maybe now is the time to cross that place you’ve been eyeing off your list. Follow @sfrestaurantweek on Instagram and tag your pics with #SFRW to be featured!

And even Caviar is getting in on the promotion, so you can enjoy SFRW at home. (Use my code for $20 off your first delivery!) Or use code SFRW2018 at participating restaurants for $0 delivery fees on orders that are $30-plus, through January 31st.

This Sunday January 28th, Indian ROOH and Peruvian LA MAR are partnering on another chef collaboration dinner, and it’s abundant (seven courses). 6pm. Tickets: $129 per person, or $169 with beverage pairings. 333 Brannan St. at 2nd St.

HAKKASAN is kicking off their signature Chinese New Year menu, running January 29th to February 24th (the Lunar New Year is on Friday February 16th—there will be lion dancers at 7pm). You’ll find oysters (which symbolize good fortune), braised beef tongue and caramelized walnuts, and abalone fried rice in bean curd wrap with Chinese sausage…and more. Priced at $118 per person. Be sure to write a wish for their wishing tree.

Ramen fanatics, you won’t want to miss the screening of Ramen Heads on Saturday February 10th (2pm) and Tuesday February 13th (7pm) at the Roxie Theatre during the SF IndieFest (February 1st-15th). The film features “Japan’s reigning king of ramen, Osamu Tomita.” More information and tickets here.

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This Round Is On Me... (hey, thanks!)

(Sponsored): Why Should I Eat Out During SF Restaurant Week?

SF Restaurant Week (January 22nd-31st, 2018) is an opportunity for diners to discover a new favorite restaurant or revisit a perpetual favorite and enjoy special multicourse menus that are only offered during this program.

Want another reason? You can get a year of dining out! When you eat at four or more participating restaurants during SF Restaurant Week, you can post a qualified entry to the Facebook event page and be eligible to be given $1,200 in dining gift certificates to different restaurants. See Facebook for guidelines.

You can also follow @sfrestaurantweek on Instagram, and tag your pics with #SFRW to be featured!

the lush

Bar News & Reviews (put it on my tab)

Robert Sinskey at Foreign Cinema, Special Beers, Admiral Maltings

Yo, winos! I know there are a bunch of Robert Sinskey Vineyards fans out there, and he’s going to be at FOREIGN CINEMA this Thursday January 25th. You’ll not only enjoy pours of his organic, biodynamic-certified wines that are built for food, but you’ll also get to chat with him.

Wine director Shannon Tucker is going to be hosting six winemakers from the West Coast throughout the year at Foreign Cinema, here’s the list so you can mark your calendar: March 8th, with Jill Klein Matthiasson from Matthiasson Wines; May 17th, with Andrew Mariani from Scribe Winery; July 19th, with Jesse Skiles of Fausse Piste; September 6th, with Andy Peay of Peay Vineyards; and November 8th, with Eric Sussman from Radio-Coteau.

You looking ahead to SF Beer Week (Feb 9th-18th)? A bunch of events are on the calendar, from brunches to brewery tours. But if you are eager to crack into a cold one right now, Fort Point Beer is hosting a can release party for their new Resonance this Saturday January 27th at Drexl Bar in Oakland (5pm-10pm). Here’s more: “Resonance is an elegant new take on the classic saison style. A blend of two fermentations—one dry and earthy, one tart—creates juicy citrus notes, balanced by subtle spice and an effervescent finish.” After the initial release event, the beer will be available at locations throughout California starting January 31st.

While we’re in the East Bay, there’s something new brewing in Alameda: Ron Silberstein of ThirstyBear Brewing Company, Dave McLean of Magnolia Brewing Company, and Curtis Davenport, who has an extensive background in organic farming and small batch malting, came together to launch ADMIRAL MALTINGS last fall. Their 20,000-square-foot malthouse is the first barley floor-malting facility in California since pre-Prohibition, and California’s only CCOF-certified malting operation. They are partnering with California farmers to source quality and sustainably grown grain and produce exceptional handcrafted malt that will express local terroir.

But the news is that there’s a new onsite pub overlooking their floor-malting production, The Rake. They will exclusively serve beers brewed with Admiral malts—featuring 20 beers on draft and two cask-conditioned ales—all accompanied with rustic pub food, like cured meats, cheese boards, sandwiches (Reuben, Italian hoagie), snacks like smoked whitefish toast and pickled quail eggs, and more. The Rake opens on Friday January 26th. Hours are Mon-Fri 3pm-9pm, Sat 12pm-9pm, and Sun 12pm-8pm. The Rake will soon open for lunch (during the week) once they are up and running. 651 W. Tower Ave. at Pan Am Way, Alameda.

the sugar mama

Giveaways (get some)

(Sponsored): Enter to Win a $75 Gift Certificate (or Pizza for a Month!) at Booster Foods!

New Year, New You. Have you been looking for healthy food that actually tastes good? Booster Foods Nutrition Kitchen—San Francisco’s answer to food that is both delicious and nutritious—invites you to discover interesting, clean, healthy dishes that delight the senses and fuel the body. We’re talking about balanced bowls, fulfilling salads (with our booster dressings), and then there’s our cauliflower crust pizzas! And everything is gluten-free, locally sourced, and non-GMO. We’re located right at the corner of 601 Baker St. at Fulton.

Here’s how to enter to win a gift certificate valued at $75 (good for lunch or dinner). OR you can choose to enjoy one pizza per week for a month! Your pick!

All you need to do is:

1) Like this post on Instagram. 2) Follow @booster_foods. 3) Tag someone who loves food in the comments!

One winner will be randomly chosen on Monday January 29th at 12:01pm (Cali time). Good luck!