what’s cookin’
Hello hello! I’m back in your inbox after taking a week off to enjoy my New York jaunt. There’s nothing like New York City in the springtime—it was a daily parade of tulips and wisteria and birds chirping and green trees. I have much to say about my fabulous trip, but I need to run a bunch of breaking news (and some catch-up stories) for you first, whew.
I’m going to put together a New York jetsetter piece for all you fab supporting subscribers since your support helped me dine out in New York! I can’t wait to tell you about some of the incredible meals and experiences I had, it was a helluva great trip. (Man, I needed that.) I have so many photos and stories to share, but I had to plow through the 1,500 emails I came home to first, ugh. Glad that’s over.
Are you a fellow freelancer and need a lil’ financial assistance for a subscription? Hit me up!
The whole point of heading out to NYC was to attend the 15th Cherry Bombe Jubilee, which was a whirlwind of a day, with 1,000 women to network and build community with, be inspired by, learn about their products, hear their stories, and buy their cookbooks. Go fempire! My favorite panel was The Legacy of Edna Lewis, with culinary historian Toni Tipton-Martin, who wrote the forward for The Taste of Country Cooking: 50th Anniversary Edition by Edna Lewis (out now!), with Nina Williams-Mbengue (Edna’s niece), who looked so much like her, it was breathtaking!
I totally savored the keynote conversation with the iconic-yet-publicity-shy Jody Williams and Rita Sodi (I Sodi, Via Carota, Buvette), as well as the inspiring stories from Jenny Nguyen of The Sports Bra (the country’s first sports bar dedicated exclusively to women’s sports), and the frank conversation in the Stories We Tell: Cookbooks, Substack, Social Media, and More panel, with Nasim Lahbichi, Carla Lalli, and the dynamic Ella Quittner, moderated masterfully by Radio Cherry Bombe Kerry Diamond. Good stuff.
I was especially taken with the powerful reading by Zahra Tangorra from her new book, Extra Sauce: The Good, the Bad, and the Onions, and she’s going to be at Omnivore Books on Monday May 18th in conversation with Liz Prueitt, don’t miss it!
May is AAPI Month, and I kicked things off on Sunday at the second annual Bakers & Makers Fair at Nisei (there were so many fantastic treats—they’re gonna need a bigger space next year!); be sure to take a look at Nisei’s calendar of AAPI Month happenings. I’ll have more for you on AAPI Cocktail Week in next week’s issue, but take a look at the events now if you’re interested.
Let’s get to this week’s scoops and stories—I have a lot to cover!
Boop!
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Kilgore Hospitality Group Suddenly Closes All Three Restaurant Projects at Transamerica Pyramid Center
Whoa, there’s more big news coming out of the Transamerica Pyramid Center. With the recent sale in March (for $691.6 million to Cyprus-based Yoda PLC), marking the end of developer Michael Shvo’s involvement and ambitious multimillion makeover of the property, it has also led to the abrupt closure of Kilgore Hospitality Group’s three on-site restaurants.
Transamerica Pyramid tenants received this letter from JLL property management on Monday morning:
Subscriber Exclusive: First Look at a Trattoria That Just Soft-Opened
Here’s a fun supporting subscriber–only serving for you:
This Fall, Kitchen Commons Will Open in the Inner Richmond, a Culinary-Minded Place to Gather, Shop, Taste, and Learn
Back in January, I was first to write about the closure of The Spanish Table in the Inner Richmond, and now I have a scoop for you about what’s coming next in the space. Get fired up for Kitchen Commons, a retail kitchen shop geared for home cooks (with cookware, barware, cookbooks, pantry items, and more) and designed to be a community gathering space, whether you’re taking cooking classes in the evening, joining a monthly cookbook reading circle, or getting a coffee at the bar in the morning while flipping through a cookbook.
The project is from longtime hospitality pro and SF native Jeff Hanak (a partner in Liholiho Yacht Club, Good Good Culture Club, and Nopalito), and Connor Bruce, a Bay Area native with a background in hospitality (both FOH and BOH) and marketing, who will be running the day-to-day operations. The two first met while working together at Nopalito, and both of them are avid home cooks with kids (although Jeff’s are in their 20s now).
It’s interesting to see how much the early days of the pandemic shaped this concept: instead of being at one of his restaurants almost every night, Jeff recalls how he was suddenly home for family meals, and the experience of sitting at the table and the connection that happens there became really apparent and important to him. Connor is teaching his 3 1/2-year-old son how to cook and bake, and hosts friends often for meals.
When you cook a lot, you get a taste and feel for the best cookware, knives, tools, and pantry staples. At Kitchen Commons, they will be stocking well-made and functional products from brands like Made In, coffee tools from Slow Pour Supply, cast iron from Smithey and Field, as well as stoneware and ceramics (and more) from Hasami Porcelain, and local makers like Sarah Kersten, Jered Nelson, and Zoe Dering. There will be glassware, barware, and some vintage items as well.
The pantry section will include shelf-stable and perishable/refrigerated items, and will also feature local purveyors. The products will align with the shop programming: imagine a week of Japanese cooking classes, and items like yuzu kosho and black sesame paste will be highlighted. Classes will have room for 15 or so—this aspect of the business will be launching after the shop opens first. Also coming later: the coffee bar, and there will be wine for sale, with wine tastings on Fridays.
Hanak—who has lived in the Inner Richmond since 2001—knows how special and vibrant the neighborhood is, from the fantastic weekly farmers’ market to all the restaurants and coffee shops and bakeries. There will be interactive programming, store activities, and gatherings to provide a space for the neighbors to come together, from food-focused talks to community conversations, as well as cooking demonstrations, and product launches. Follow their Instagram for updates: @kitchen____commons. 130 Clement St. at 3rd Ave.
The Inner Richmond Continues to Crush With the Opening of Rose Pizzeria
After stalking the new location of Rose Pizzeria in the Inner Richmond for weeks, I’m thrilled to see Alexis Rorabaugh and Gerad Gobel have opened the SF outpost of one of my favorite pizzerias in the Bay Area (which has plenty of accolades, including a place as “22 of the Best Pizza Places in the United States” by The New York Times). They took over the former Village Pizzeria, a prime location, with indoor and outdoor seating (like their place in Berkeley), but with a bunch more room.
Take a look at their menu here, which has their killer spicy miso Caesar salad, and a couple other salad-y items, plus nine 14-inch pizzas. Their dough has a delicious leavened flavor, with a crisp-yet-tender crust with a satisfying texture, and will inspire you to eat every bite.
I love all their punchy combinations of toppings (it’s always tough to choose which pie to get), and while reading Eater SF’s early visit, I discovered they have a new style they’re offering here—tonda romana pizza—which will be even more thin and crisp, with pies like the Beach Club, a spin on a Hawaiian pizza, but with pistachio mortadella and pickled jalapeños.
While they’re super-busy with on-site dining and takeout (it’s walk-up only for now, online ordering is coming soon), the cool thing is they launched with daytime hours (11:30am–9:15pm daily), so you have an option of planning your visit outside of primetime dinner hours. There are wines, spritzes, and tiramisù for dessert. 1 Clement St. at Arguello.
News Bites
Eater SF reported the Mission location of Hamburger Project has closed. The curse of that space continues! 598 Guerrero St.
La Cocina has appointed 13-year-veteran Aniela Valtierra as Executive Director, who succeeds Leticia Landa, who has been with the organization for 18 years, including five as Executive Director. According to the press release, “Landa approached the board herself with her intention to step down, advocated for an internal search, and will remain connected to the organization as an advisor and board member.” I’m raising my glass to both of these incredible women!
the sugar mama
Where My Party People At? Enter to Win Guest List Action for DJ Harvey and Disco Dom at Club Darc This Saturday Night!
I’ve been curious about checking out the inaugural season of Club Darc at Pier 48’s Shed A on McCovey Cove. It’s from Goldenvoice Bay Area (who are behind Portola Festival), who booked a lineup of DJ talent that kicked off in February, running through mid-May (closing with Underworld on May 16th).
This Saturday May 9th brings one of my absolute favorite DJs evah, DJ Harvey, who always takes me on a housey Balearic disco spaceship journey, along with Disco Dom (Dombresky) and e’lish (tickets here).
I have one pair of tickets to give away to this Saturday May 9th’s show, which runs from 8:30pm–2am (21+).
the socialite
Some Ways to Spoil Mom This Weekend for Mother’s Day
This Sunday May 10th is Mother’s Day, and the weather is looking sorta springy and maybe sunny for a couple hours. I know it can be a hard day for many of you, so I’m sending some hugs and lots of love, while raising my glass to all the mothers and mother figures. I’m looking forward to bringing our Mom to the swanky new location of Crustacean San Francisco, which is hosting a special brunch that is now sold out (sowwy!).
Here’s a list of some ideas for you:
The colorful ROOH San Francisco is debuting its new weekend brunch (Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30am–2:30pm) on Mother’s Day. Executive chef Ashish Tiwari’s contemporary Indian menu includes dishes like fermented dosa waffle with sambar-spiced maple (crisp dosa waffle with coconut and heirloom tomato chutneys, finished with warm sambar-spiced maple syrup; $28). 333 Brannan St.
Can’t celebrate on Sunday? On Saturday May 9th, guests who come to Empress by Boon with their mothers or parents will enjoy the restaurant’s signature prix-fixe menu ($118) while immersing themselves in a hands-on, complimentary, flower bar experience (in partnership with Bouquet Box Flower Bar), featuring fragrant roses, garden roses, and an array of specialty blooms so you can craft your own bouquets to take home. On Sunday May 10th, chef Ho Chee Boon has a special Mother’s Day menu available for lunch and dinner guests for $78. (No flower bar). Reserve here.
A few years ago, we brought Mom to Hayes Street Grill for lunch, since it coincided with the kitchen putting Chesapeake Bay soft-shell crabs on the menu. This year, the timing is no different! They dip the soft-shell crabs in buttermilk and seasoned flour, sauté them until crisp, drape them in a meunière (a pan sauce of shallots, wine, butter, and parsley), and serve them with French fries, which you will love dipping in that sauce! So good. Pop some Champagne to go with it.
Are you going to cook brunch for Mom at home? Nopa’s Bake Shop is back this Saturday with their epic French toast kits (I loved them during the pandemic), and you can also get Nopa bacon, garlic breakfast sausage, hand-squeezed organic Navel orange juice, and a bottle of bubs Order now, pick up on Saturday!
Looking for something fun to do? Take Mom to the San Francisco Decorator Showcase, set within a grand 1897 Queen Anne–style Victorian in Pacific Heights.
