what’s cookin’
Hi, friends. I know we’re all holding our breath right now. I have to keep reminding myself to take deep breaths. Let’s do it together: big inhale, hold for seven, big exhale. These are such deeply unsettling and upsetting times, and things just keep escalating whenever I open my phone and read the headlines. I don’t want to deep dive here into the scary state of the world right now, but please know my thoughts are with you, with our local communities, with LA, with California, and with every peaceful protestor taking to the streets nationwide to decry ICE raids and inhumanity and injustice, and everyone who is showing up for immigrant rights and protecting our communities.
There’s so much anxiety and fear rippling through the restaurant industry—the GGRA just shared this list of best practices and resources to help prepare in case of any ICE activity. Check in with your industry friends, and please show support for all of our treasured immigrant-owned businesses in our community.
I can’t imagine our community without our immigrant friends and family, and I won’t. This moment isn’t about valuing people because of what they can do for you: this is about respect for human beings and honoring their lives and protecting their rights. It’s about humanity and dignity. (This post really resonated with me.) Don’t feel hopeless—be in solidarity, use your voice, stay vigilant, and help keep each other safe.
I know we’re feeling spun out, and worried for many people we know and love and work and live with, so I hope today’s column can give you a momentary mental break from the chaos, or even a little lift for a heavy heart. I don’t want to seem tone deaf by publishing this right now—I’m sending this newsletter with so much love. It hasn’t been easy to focus and write the past couple days (I know you understand), so thanks for excusing any lapses here.
Let’s begin.
This Thursday June 12th, I hope you’ll join me for the latest event in Gazetteer SF’s Chat Room series at the Swedish American Hall. Chat Room: Food will feature lively and interesting conversations (Pizza! Baking! Fine dining! Hype!) with local food and beverage industry leaders, and yours truly is the MC! Chat Room events are free to attend for Gazetteer SF subscribers, and tickets are available to non-subscribers for $27.22 (includes fees). Tickets include free-flowing beer and wine from 5:30pm–8:30pm. 🍻
The first person to become an annual subscriber and forward your subscription confirmation to me will win the discounted subscription! Thank you for subscribing and supporting independent journalism!
Another distraction for you: last week, I was invited to a screening of The Phoenician Scheme at the Alamo Drafthouse New Mission theater, and while it didn’t resonate like my favorite Wes Anderson films do, I appreciate that it offered a full-on visual banquet that stopped me from thinking about life for a couple hours. I loved getting lost in the set design and spotting art masterpieces in the film, and I always dig being able to enjoy a handmade cocktail at the theater (they have some themed cocktails to go with the film, but it was a Paper Plane for me, and their Ranch Water pairs really well with the fried pickles, jus’ sayin’). So, if you’re looking for a temporary escape in aesthetics over a couple adult beverages, there’s one idea.
Some uplifting, theater-related news: I just read in The New Fillmore this morning that The Clay Theatre will be renovated and will reopen as a single-screen theater! It has been closed since 2020, and the future of the location as a theater was unclear, so this is really positive news. I have viewed so many incredible films at The Clay, and look forward to seeing many more there. (You can read additional details in this SF Chronicle story.)
Mark your calendar: the 2025 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards will be held on Monday June 16th at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. Tune in and watch the livestream online (starting at 5:30pm CT, so 3:30pm PT). Best of luck to our local nominees!
I want to be sure you know Juanita MORE! is back for the second annual MORE! Stories from Home, a special PRIDE dinner party next Tuesday June 17th at Merkado in SoMa. You’ll find her signature burger, tres leches cake, cocktails, and MORE, in support of the Transgender Law Center (TLC). Last year was an absolute blast, it felt like a family dinner. Book your table (4pm–9pm) and I hope to see you there! (I’ll be coming in on the later side after my deadline.)
I’m thrilled to announce that tablehopper has a fabulous summer intern who just started working with me last week! Meet Olivia Casellini, who will be joining editorial assistant Savannah Leone Bundy and media researcher Rebecca Kinney in helping me research and report on local restaurant industry/food and beverage stories, create content, and work on special projects, including organizing the tablehopper archive of vintage SF ephemera. I sure can use the extra support, and Olivia’s excellent palate and passion for our food scene (and history!) are all warmly welcomed over here at Hopper HQ.
Here’s more from Olivia:
Hi! I’m Olivia Casellini and I’m so excited to start my summer internship at tablehopper! I’m a Bay Area native, but I’ve bounced around a little before returning home to San Francisco for my summer breaks. I briefly lived in Bend, Oregon, before moving to the Big Island, Hawai‘i, for high school. I am currently studying English at Williams College—a liberal arts school in Western Massachusetts.
Moving around has taught me that the quickest way to understand a new place is through its food scene. Luckily for us, SF has a great one. After a year of eating college dorm food, I’m so happy to return to the City and eat pancakes at Early to Rise, sandwiches at Lucca (caprese add pesto is the best), and so many croissants.
Welcome, Olivia! And with that, let’s get to today’s bonkers lineup of stories. On Saturday, I visited the new Standard Deviant brewery and taproom at Pier 70 (you will read about it today), and the new Rikki’s women’s sports bar in the Castro (I’ll have my piece for you next week), while Olivia hit up the new Leadbetter’s Bake Shop, also in the Castro (you can read her first piece about it today). We were invited to a lively friends-and-family preview of the new Nopa Fish on Monday evening, so today’s newsletter has a sneak peek for you, and so much more. Yeah, I’m exhausted.
I’m wishing all you rad dads and father figures a happy Father’s Day this Sunday! You’ll find some ideas on where to go in this week’s issue to help you work on your dad bod.
With so much love and big, strong hugs,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Subscriber Exclusive: A Sneak Peek of Nopa Fish (Here’s What’s on the Menu!)
Back in August, I shared the exciting news that Nopa restaurant’s Laurence Jossel and Holly Rhodes, with Joe Conte, owner of Water2Table, were opening Nopa Fish, a counter-service seafood restaurant with a traditional fish market (highlighting local, sustainable, and ethically sourced fish) at the Ferry Building Marketplace. Well, the boat has arrived, and it’s time to check out the fresh catch!
On Monday evening, I was invited to attend a friends-and-family test service, so here’s a first look for you of the awesome dishes and menu, a subscriber exclusive.
I’ll be sharing more next week about the project, people, dishes, fish market, wines, beers, to-go case items, and other fun details in time for Nopa Fish’s official grand opening on Tuesday June 17th. Follow @nopafishmarket for updates. Go team go! Go Nopa Fish! Suite 31, Ferry Building Marketplace.
An Early Visit to Leadbetter’s Bake Shop in the Castro
By Olivia Casellini
After reading the update on Leadbetter’s Bake Shop’s opening in last week’s tablehopper newsletter (subscribers know what I’m talking about!), I took a trip to their new Castro location for their first neighborhood preview over the weekend. I brought the biggest English muffin fan I know—my dad—along for the adventure.
We took the bus up to the Castro, and looked for the new storefront. (Heads up: there’s no signage yet, but a hand-lettering artist based in Hawai‘i is coming soon to paint their sign and make the shop easier to find on the busy street.) Before we spotted the brick-red exterior of the shop, we were greeted by a very nice apron-clad teenage boy handing out apple turnover samples. The turnovers were warm and comforting, a perfect treat for the true San Francisco “summer” weather we’ve had lately.
We were greeted by the owners, Jamieson Leadbetter and Emmy Huang, and their two kids—it’s a family affair. Inside, the case was stocked with giant English muffins, turnovers, and cookies that they bake on-site. Take a look at the opening menu below.
We sat down to enjoy our breakfast sandwiches ($11.50) in the parklet, which Leadbetter’s shares with their next-door neighbor, Fable. The fluffy English muffins sandwiched crisp (but-not-too-crisp) bacon and a hefty serving of steamed eggs. Breakfast sandwiches are a classic for a reason, and this one nailed every aspect. The Leadbetter muffins are bigger and denser than typical bagged muffins, yet lighter and fluffier than a bagel, which means they can stand up to a larger serving of fillings, which I loved.
Although Leadbetter’s doesn’t have coffee yet (they’ll be getting drip coffee from Andytown Coffee Roasters soon, and a full espresso bar will follow), Emmy recommended we visit Spike’s Coffees and Teas around the corner while we waited for our breakfast to come out. The location was a friendly start to a day of wandering the Castro, and I can’t wait to come back later for the full menu and a cup of coffee. The soft-opening hours will continue this weekend: Sat–Sun 9am–1pm. 554 Castro St. at 19th St.
Quick News Updates
I spotted an Instagram post from Toy Boat by Jane in the Inner Richmond announcing they’re reopening this Friday June 13th! The ice cream shop temporarily closed back in November for some much-needed seismic work, and it’s wonderful news that the ice cream, sandwiches, toys, and Butterscotch the horse are gonna be galloping back to the neighborhood. Open this Fri–Sun 12pm–10pm. 401 Clement St. at 5th Ave.
I was sorry to hear Banh Mi Viet in my old neighborhood (at 518 Divisadero St.) suffered a fire last week (no one was injured, thankfully) and Madrone Art Bar has sprung to help like the amazing neighbor they are and offered the family their bar to sell sandwiches from 11am–3pm daily and keep business going. They should be selling their sandwiches next week. Way to go! 500 Divisadero St. at Oak.
Big changes are coming to Fisherman’s Wharf, and this SF Chronicle story reports that the historic and massive Alioto’s Restaurant (which has been closed since 2020): “will be demolished and replaced by a new public plaza as part of a $10 million plan by the Port of San Francisco to reimagine the historic heart of Fisherman’s Wharf.” Read more about the challenges to find a tenant for the property as it stands now, as well as the future projects coming to the neighborhood: “Chasca Rio will open at 340 Jefferson St., which used to house Pompei’s Grotto; Everett & Jones Barbeque will take over the former Lou’s Fish Shack; and Castagnola’s will reopen with a new operator and concept, which has yet to be announced.”
Something Sweet to Look Forward to: Kouign Amann Day at Starter Bakery
By Olivia Casellini
Starter Bakery’s second annual Kouign Amann Day on Friday June 20th is almost here! The Oakland bakery has created two boxed sets for preorder, as well as individual kouign amann that will be available in the pastry case. The boxed sets each come with an array of adventurous flavor combinations. Although kouign amann are not typically topped and filled, head baker/CEO Brian Wood and his team showcase their playfulness with strawberry rhubarb coulis and pistachio and tahini filling. (Take a closer look in this @tablehopper Reel.)
The Baker’s Box—a returning product from last year, which features a dozen full-size kouign amann—is available for preorder. Be sure to get yours before it sells out (or before June 15th)!
The Oakland Pride Set has five mini kouign amann that feature a rainbow of fruits (strawberry, lemon, pistachio, blueberry, and cassis poached pear). Ten percent of each purchase is donated to the Oakland LGBTQ Community Center. We love to see it! The Pride Set Box is available for preorder on all weekends in June, and will be in the pastry case from June 13th–15th and June 20th–22nd.
The bakery will also have the blueberry-lemon kouign amann and the squiggle—a new, shaped kouign amann filled with passion fruit milk chocolate ganache and topped with raspberries—available in the pastry case starting on Kouign Amann Day (Friday June 20th), and continuing through that weekend.
The best part of the boxed sets is getting to pick a favorite flavor!
Starter Bakery is killing it! Make sure to preorder your box or stop by their Oakland store to celebrate Kouign Amann Day. 5804 College Ave. at Birch Ct., Oakland.
Some Father’s Day Options This Week
I just wanted to share some quick ideas with you about some places to take Dad (or your favorite father figure) in honor of Father’s Day. While the official day is this Sunday June 15th, here are some options running all week:
All my prime rib lovers will be thrilled to learn that Kim Alter of Nightbird’s PrimeBird at NightJar, her pop-up salute to House of Prime Rib, is back for the month of June! This dining experience is pure delight and was one of my favorite meals last year. (Check out my Reel recap here.) The three-course menu features a Little Gem salad with creamy Green Goddess dressing; dry-aged beef rib served with creamed spinach, rib au jus, aged bone marrow and smoked wagyu hollandaise (uh huh), and herbed horseradish; truffle and aged cheddar Yorkshire pudding; and strawberry and rhubarb graham cracker cheesecake. $80 per person (plus tax, 16% service charge, and 6% SF Mandate). Served Tue–Thu, starting at 5pm, reservations available here.
Don’t miss this week’s sponsored event below, a wine dinner with BROWN Napa Valley on Thursday June 12th at Morton’s The Steakhouse!
sponsored event
Six Wines, Two Master Sommeliers, One Unforgettable Dinner This Thursday June 12th!
Join BROWN Napa Valley for an unforgettable evening of wine, food, and connection this Thursday June 12th at Morton’s The Steakhouse in San Francisco (400 Post Street, downstairs). This private dinner will feature wines from the BROWN portfolio, thoughtfully paired across a four-course menu prepared by the Morton’s culinary team. Hosted by Master Sommeliers Chris Gaither (BROWN) and Keith Goldston (Morton’s), the evening will feature six wines, seasonally inspired dishes, and plenty of good stories along the way.
If you want to celebrate Father’s Day early, here’s a special experience from a Black, family-owned winery (established in 1996)! Expect elevated bites like jumbo lump crab cakes, a crisp wedge salad, USDA Prime filet mignon, and artisan cheeses, with each course paired with selections from across the BROWN portfolio, including Brown Estate, House of Brown, and Chaos Theory. (View the menu here.)
Thursday June 12th: 6pm for passed appetizers, dinner at 6:30pm.
Limited seats available. $195, including all pairings, tax, and gratuity. Purchase tickets here.
Morton’s The Steakhouse, 400 Post St. at Powell St., downstairs; San Francisco.
the lush
Check Out Your New Spot to Sit by the Bay and Drink SF’s Coldest Beers
On Saturday, I swung by the new Standard Deviant Brewing taproom at Pier 70 (in Building 12), which I mentioned in last week’s column was holding a grand opening last Friday. The spacious, industrial location has a perfect indoor/outdoor vibe, with 30-foot ceilings and huge window doors that open up to a patio, with a view of the Bay. The restored historic structure was originally built in 1941 for the World War II shipbuilding effort, and now will host a “growing creative community of bakers, artists, designers, nonprofits and innovators.”
I caught up with partner Mark DeVito (the team also includes Paul Duatschek, Peter Vitt, and Dave Azzam), who shares they have been in talks with Brookfield Properties about the project since 2019, but then the pandemic hit. They stayed in talks and eventually closed the deal and started construction nine months ago.
They’re fired up to have a bigger brewery system here so they can really up their capacity, and will be able to get their popular beers into regular rotation instead of selling out. They’ll be moving the production of their award-winning Kolsch (which just won yet another gold), IPAs, and hoppy beers, pilsners, and lagers over to the new digs, which should be ready in about a month.
When they opened their flagship on 14th Street in 2016 (which they are going to keep forever!), they planned to launch with a pale ale that didn’t come out like they intended (they called it their Extra Pale Ale), and now they’re going to repeat launching with a pale ale in honor of the new brewery and make an “extra special super light hazy pale ale,” get ready.
Outside on the patio, we were stoked to find Rozmary’s Kitchen popping up and serving their killer hoagies (their Fanucchi is such a badass Italian combo)—here’s hoping they make Saturdays a regular thing. Plan on rotating food options and pop-ups providing tasty eats at the brewery.
Standard Deviant opened the brewery and taproom at the perfect moment: right at the beginning of our outdoor season. There’s such a community vibe at the large picnic tables and high-top tables, with people all sitting down together and bringing their dogs, babies, and bikes. You’ll see some TV screens playing sports mixed in with artwork and flags on the walls, but it’s not a sports scene—it’s more of a beer garden vibe.
DeVito shared: “We’re doing the Pier as an investment in the City and Standard Deviant. There are so many makers and manufacturers in the building, it has a real SF ethos.” He mentioned Scuderia is over there (they were formerly neighbors in the Mission), Sven Ceramics, Marbled Mint florist, and Breadbelly is close to opening (bring on the shrimp sandwiches). I’m excited to hear about future restaurants and projects moving in (here’s the current directory).
For now, the taproom will be open Wed–Thu 4pm–9pm, Fri 2pm–9pm, Sat–Sun 12pm–9pm. They said closing time depends upon you—if there are still folks inside drinking beers, they’ll stay open. 🍻 1070 Maryland St.
the socialite
Pizza, Bagels, and Beer! Oh My!
by Savannah Leone Bundy
The San Francisco Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival is back on Saturday August 16th for its third rendition this summer. Tony Gemignani (the pizza-making champion behind Tony’s Pizza Napoletana and a collection of other North Beach spots) has once again curated a monster list of pizza makers, bagel bakers, and brewers to take over and shut down Stockton and Filbert Streets, so you can spend an afternoon celebrating (and carbo-loading!) food, community, and culture while outside in the heart of North Beach.
Some of our Bay Area darlings like A16, Flour + Water, Il Casaro Pizza, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, Square Pie Guys, DamnFine, and Montesacro, plus newcomer Cheezy’s Artisan Pizza, will be joined by out-of-towners like Hot Tongue Pizza (Los Angeles), Metro Pizza (Las Vegas), and Pizzata Pizzeria (Philadelphia). There will be impressive group of women in pizza repping, including Laura Meyer of Pizzeria da Laura, Leah Scurto of PizzaLeah, Leith Leizer Ludlow of Psychic Pie, Cristina Aceves Smith of State of Mind Pizza, and Kira Zabrowski of Much Ado About Pizza.
You can look forward to bagels from Dago Bagel, Bagel Macher, Bageltopia, Forgotten Bakery, Kaz Bagels, and The Laundromat, and a beer garden featuring beverages from Sierra Nevada, Allegash, Fort Point, Lagunitas, Boochcraft, Otherwise Brewing, Standard Deviant, and more. The lists truly do go on—you can check it all out here.
The festival will also host SF’s second Ooni competition, where pizza enthusiasts and home chefs will get the chance to showcase their skills in a pizza-making contest moderated by pizzaiolos Eidref Laxa and Adam Sachs.
Last year’s tickets (available here) sold out, so don’t miss your chance to pop out and party. VIP admission ($275/person) will get you pizza and bagel tastings, unlimited beer tasting, early entry, exclusive bites and gifts, and a private lounge with open bar in the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club. General admission ($85/person) offers pizza and bagel tastings and four beer tickets (16 oz. each) to guests aged 21 and up, while kids ($60/person for 13 and up; $30/person for ages 5–13; free for under 5) are welcome to enjoy pizza and bagels. Proceeds from the event support local youth and small business organizations. 12pm–4pm. 1630 Stockton St. at Filbert.
the starlet
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