This week’s tablehopper: elfing hard. (free)

what’s cookin’

Ho ho ho, hi hi hi! After last week’s packed holiday issue, I followed some of my own advice and took some friends who were visiting in town for their first boozy holiday lunch at Bix, replete with table-side Martinis and steak tartare, clams casino, and witty server repartee, the best! There are two lunches remaining this week (Wed and Fri), good luck with a reso!

This week, I’m hitting up Scoma’s for a holiday dinner with a friend, and I can’t wait to raise a glass of their vintage eggnog to their 60th anniversary. If you want more ideas for fun and classic SF spots for holiday meals, check out my feature from last week.

One more festive meal to add: if you happen to be holiday shopping in Hayes Valley (or catching a performance of The Nutcracker), I have to say, the trifecta of Absinthe’s French onion soup (I always ask for it extra-browned), duck fat French fries, and a Manhattan made for the perfect dinner with a friend on a chilly night last week. (Add the gougères stuffed with goat cheese and chives if you want some extra snackage.)

In today’s issue, I have even more holiday treats and menus that have blipped on my radar, as well as where to go for holiday cocktails. I’m also adding daily to my story highlights on Instagram: click the Christmas trees and menorahs for cookies and latkes and more festive updates.

On Sunday, I was so touched to be invited to a friend’s home for a cozy dinner on the first night of Hanukkah—and it looks like I may have more homemade latkes in my future this weekend. With all the horrific news from last week that weighs heavily on our hearts, gathering with friends and family can really help bring some light to the darkness.

So, this is going to be my last issue for the year (which is why these recent columns have been so huge, you could read this one over two weeks!)—I’m going on my annual and much-needed holiday break. And, it’s my father’s 85th birthday next Tuesday, so sis and I have some party prep to do!

I’ll be back in your inboxes on January 6th, with my annual The Bore rant of 10 things I don’t want to see in the new year, oh you know it. I will keep posting fun things on @tablehopper, so follow my Instagram stories for New Year’s Eve and Day ideas and more (including some Fortuna pics). I know most of us can’t wait for this dumpster fire of a year to end. (Raises hand.) It has been quite hideous for too many of us—I can’t believe the stories I’ve heard. It’s all too much. Everyone is so exhausted. Basta, 2025.

But something I am so grateful for is our unique relationship over here. 25 years ago today (on December 17th), I was laid off from my ad agency job and started my freelance life, which eventually led to me launching this column in 2006, which means tablehopper is turning 20 in February! Crazy. It’s an honor to know so many of you for all these years. What an incredible community.

If you want to wish me Happy Marcia Liberation Day, become a subscriber with the Hopper Holiday Sale, which is an extra-special 30% off right now (it comes to just $8.69/month to live your best SF life and support my work!). Thanks for helping me close out the year on a high note.

I’m sending you many holiday blessings of good health and peace and joy. (And lots of Champagne!) Enjoy sweet moments of holiday cheer with friends and family. Happy Holidays, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Solstice, Buon Natale, Happy Kwanzaa, Happy New Year!

See you in 2026! 🥂
~Champers the elf/Marcia

the chatterbox

An Early Preview of RT Bistro, Opening in January 2026 from the Rich Table Team

Back in April, I ran a scoop that Evan and Sarah Rich of Rich Table—along with longtime partner/GM Jonny Gilbert—were planning a new project in the former O-toro Sushi, just around the corner from their Hayes Valley restaurant. In September, I had more details to share about the project, RT Bistro, which they’re calling a relaxed, “quintessential San Francisco bistro,” with a touch of sophistication.

I was invited to dine at Rich Table to preview some dishes that will be on the upcoming RT Bistro menu, chat with the team, and take a look at the space, which they’re currently using to host holiday events until the bistro opens around the first week of January. 

First, if you haven’t been to Rich Table for a minute (can you believe it opened 13 years ago?!), it’s really firing on all cylinders: the food is as dynamic and flavorful as ever (like the Shinko pear dressed in a tom kha sauce with makrut lime leaf, and their Singaporean sous chef created the grilled pork chop bakar, finished with a kumquat sambal matah), and the cocktails, wine pairings, and warm service are so tuned in. It was heartening to see the place so packed and busy at 10pm in our town that is going to bed way too early these days.

Rich Table has recently expanded service to seven nights a week, so industry folks, go snag a spot at the bar on a Monday and treat yo’self to their twist on the Arpège egg (a black truffle smoked Jidori egg with crispy potato bits on top). I also love how they list a Champagne toast, a splash to start your evening, for $8. Brill.

Another thing to note: Rich Table is closing for a design refresh on January 22nd for 10 days—they’re installing a dark marble bar, plus some dividers in the dining room, plus other touches. 

So, let’s look at RT Bistro: although some of the plateware will reference French bistro plates (and classic bistro dishes), the food isn’t going to necessarily be casual or simple, because that’s not who the Riches are or how they roll.

Their SF bistro menu will offer a West Coast take on oysters Rockefeller, with Hog Island oysters nestled in a bath of Shared Cultures garlic-kombu miso, Parmesan, seaweed, and the Rich’s trademark note of Douglas fir in the breadcrumbs. 

A classic kampachi crudo gets the shrimp cocktail treatment, and thanks to Taiwanese chef de cuisine Bill Wang, he dresses the fish in a bangin’ five flavors–inspired cocktail sauce, which is like the best cocktail sauce ever, made with ginger, garlic, chile, cilantro, scallion, shoyu, and a touch of ketchup, served with marigold petals and mandarin.

There’s a one-layer lasagna with a comforting and luxurious filling of honey nut squash, Point Reyes TomaTruffle, and Parmesan that gets finished (and golden-blistered with a kiss of smoke) in their new wood-fired grill/oven, served with shaved black truffles and truffled vinaigrette. The lasagna will change with the seasons (think peas in spring, corn in the summer), and pairs well with the big bistro salad, stacked with huge leaves of what they found at the market that day, plus radishes and herbs and ribbons of carrot, dressed in a light lemon, Gravenstein apple, and olive oil vinaigrette.

The team is also working on a Bay Area–style duck à la orange, made with mandarins (Evan says it will also lean more Chinese American/sweet and sour, with garlic and ginger).

The two fryers they installed will be put to good use—as you may have surmised, one will be filled with beef tallow, which they’ll be frying their French fries in (following Heston Blumenthal’s thrice-cooked method). The fries will accompany what has been Rich Table’s limited and off-menu RT Burger that is coming over to the bistro, with a double-patty of dry-aged ground beef from Olivier’s Butchery, topped with Point Reyes Toma, bacon jam, and a housemade bun.

The kitchen is compact, but they managed to install a custom grill/oven from J&R in Texas (Evan was inspired by the combo grill and oven chef Stuart Brioza had J&R manufacture for the kitchen at The Progress and made some updates to it). There’s a grill on the bottom, with an oven they can slow-smoke items in above (at RT Bistro, they’re using almond and fig wood).

For dessert, we got to preview Sarah’s chocolate cake with candied cocoa nibs and vanilla ice cream (a nod to sticky toffee pudding), and warm madeleines with Taiwanese Maqaw mountain pepper, with a bright filling of raspberries preserved in verjus. 

Sarah grew up in Shreveport, Louisiana, eating icebox pies from Strawn’s Eat Shop. At RT Bistro, she’s doing a spin on that classic treat, served as a chocolate pudding in a coupe, with graham cracker crumble and a dollop of vanilla-lime whipped cream. We also heard Sarah is working on a banana cream version; there will be more variations with the changing seasons (expect cherries and peaches in the summer).

The showstopper was the twist on another bistro classic: crème brûlée, here a California-meets-Basque cheesecake of sorts, made with tangy Humboldt fog goat cheese, with Douglas fir shortbread cookies on the side. 

Like I wrote in my earlier piece, there will be a full bar, with cocktails from Rich Table bar manager Marisa Miller (there’s the tiniest bar counter at the entrance to the kitchen), while sommelier Kevin Born is assembling an “approachable wine program that will focus on lesser-known varietals and regions.”

The cozy room (designed by Todd McCrea of Fine Root San Francisco) has 37 seats, and there will be over 20 more outside in two heated, well-constructed parklets that are coming soon.

The space dates back to 1908, and was once a convenience store and garage, with the living quarters upstairs. During construction, the original Douglas fir planks were revealed (it was fated!), and the room is full of fir and walnut, with wood banquettes that flank the perimeter of the room (a nod to the design of Rich Table), plus a few wood tables mixed in with marble-topped tables.

It has a cabin-in-the-city feeling, with antlers and tile by the entrance, and the far wall has a carved topographical map of Kirkwood (with the chairlifts!) where the Riches have a house and love to ski every chance they get as a family. There are personal pieces of art and photography, smoked glass, touches of a slate green paint on the walls, big windows that look onto Oak Street, and three kinds of pendant lamps. One restroom will have New York–themed vintage wallpaper, and the other will be SF-inspired, representing the team’s culinary journeys on both coasts. We are so lucky they decided to stay here in SF, and keep putting down roots (like their beloved radish).

Stand by for confirmation on the official opening date in January. RT Bistro will be open nightly for dinner 5pm–10:30pm. 205 Oak St. at Gough.

A Transportive Bar and Restaurant Opens in a Historic Location in North Beach

Last week, I attended a preview of the new Equal Parts in North Beach, which is equal parts a cocktail bar and a restaurant from Victor Pichardo (Hazie’s, Brixton), Jacob Cortes, (Hazie’s, Rusted Mule), and Richard Yu, who have enjoyed working with their friends and close community to get this project open. The space was most recently American Bites from Mahmoud “Mo” Khossoussi of nearby Maykadeh, and formerly Bocce Cafe (which closed in 2015), and was once home to the famed, bohemian Old Spaghetti Factory Café (read more below in the archivist), a history that the team honors with a couple cocktail names. The grand opening is this Wednesday December 17th.

You pass through a long walkway covered in curved reed panels that feels like a tunnel/portal to Tulum before you arrive at the main door of the restaurant/bar. The airy space makes quite an impression when you walk in—there really isn’t anything like it in North Beach (the contemporary design is from SF firm and longtime friend Sean Carino Design, who recently designed Left Door in Cow Hollow).

There’s a long bar (18 seats), and multiple lounge and dining areas that can seat 65, including a couple huge booths with room for 10 each. There’s also the back patio with a couple old fig trees they’re calling the pavilion, which is going to be developed soon. The space was designed for socializing and to be flexible for events, whether you want to have a cocktail reception on the raised lounge and booth area, or the back deck. 

The overall style creates an easygoing environment and relaxed vibe. The space has high ceilings with exposed wood beams (the 1908 building was once home to a pasta factory), with soft, natural tones and materials, plenty of plants, woven basket lampshades over the dining area, glass pendant lights above the bar, concrete tiles for the main floor (with terrazzo by the bar), and breeze blocks that were all chosen to make you feel like you’re having a night out in Mexico City.

While the design is evocative of Mexico, and the bar will highlight a selection of agave spirits, the menu has a contemporary California style from chef Melissa Perfit. If you’re familiar with Perfit’s long history of cooking in San Francisco, you’ll recognize some of her trademark dishes, from her crudos (Bar Crudo), to her brilliant green cioppino made with tomatillo and serrano chiles (Ayala), and her gluten-free, crispy fried chicken (Hard Water), served with a trio of sauces, including her red pepper salmorejo. While some people primarily associate Perfit with seafood (she also worked at Hog Island Oyster Co. and was a partner at Popi’s in the Marina), her varied background includes Farina, Michael Minaʼs RN74, and Bar Tartine (plus an appearance on Top Chef).

Her menu includes a lineup of starters with a couple roasted vegetable dishes, maitake tempura, and a Little Gem salad, while a meaty section features a flavor-forward beef carpaccio with housemade Kewpie mayo, scallion, charred lime, garlic oil, and breadcrumbs; a hearty roasted bone marrow plate with French onion jam; roasted lamb ribs with tomatillo mint sauce; and braised pork shank. Everything is designed to be easy to share, and the pricing feels approachable.

Desserts include a couple truffles from North Beach neighbor XOX, vanilla panna cotta with local passionfruit, and dark chocolate mousse with olive oil, fleur de sel, and grilled bread (which made me think of Laïola).

Craft cocktails (from Victor Pichardo) feature housemade infusions and are all $15; a standout was the Ta Ta Tini (vodka, dry vermouth, tomato water); there’s also What Da Fig (honeydew- and cucumber-infused vodka, Dolin vermouth, Veev açaí, falernum, and drops of fig leaf oil made from the fig tree out back); and perhaps for dessert, the Coco & Marco (named after the two beautiful cats that roam, excuse me, own the patio) with pistachio-infused tequila, matcha tea syrup, orgeat, and lemon. The wine list features international wines sourced from coastal regions, local craft beers, and non-alcoholic options, too.

The team wants to create a space with later hours where folks can hang out, and will keep a late-night menu available from the kitchen until midnight—they’re excited to be part of and contribute to North Beach’s vibrant and returning nightlife. Open Tue–Wed 4pm–10pm, Thu 4pm–12am, Fri–Sat 2pm–2am, Sun 2pm–12am. Happy hour will be Tue–Sun 3pm–6pm. 478 Green St.

Two New Japanese Businesses: Bring on the Tonkatsu and Sandos

Quick News Updates 

The SF Business Times reported longtime owner Laurie Thomas of Rose’s Café (2298 Union St., since 1997) and Terzo (3011 Steiner St., since 2006) is passing the torch of both Cow Hollow businesses to “longtime lieutenant Ava Nicolai, the general manager of both establishments and a member of Thomas’ team there for eleven years. Both restaurants will take a temporary hiatus for repairs and maintenance this month but reopen under Nicolai’s ownership with the same employees early in the new year.” I honestly don’t know how Thomas, who has been the executive director of the Golden Gate Restaurant Association since 2020, was able to juggle all these responsibilities during one of the hardest business climates ever, how exhausting. Here’s to Thomas for successfully shepherding these restaurants for many years, and the next chapter for these neighborhood businesses. Both restaurants will be closed December 22nd–January 5th for upgrades.

Southern diner Chicken Fried Palace (read my preview here) is now open for dinner service, so they’re serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, 9am–9pm. 2240 Mission St.

And if you’re curious about the new Bar Panisse that just opened in the former César next door to Chez Panisse in Berkeley, take a look at this post in Berkeley Eats. 1515 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley.

Closures Include the Irreplaceable Cookin’, and SF’s First Turkish Restaurant

I was walking by A La Turca last week and it looked pretty bleak from the outside. According to Yelp, the longtime Turkish restaurant on the border of the Tenderloin and TenderNob has closed. When it opened in 2002, it was one of the first Turkish restaurants in the City. 869 Geary St.

Even More Holiday Treats and Festive Meals 

Last week’s post in tablehopper on seasonal treats was pretty extensive, but here’s more!

Chef Kim Alter just launched a Christmas menu at Nightbird inspired by Dr. Seuss’s How the Grinch Stole Christmas, with dishes like His Heart Grew Three Sizes: scallop, beet, Périgord truffle; All the Presents: crab raviolo, squash, hazelnut; and Who Pudding: persimmon pudding cake (takeaway item). $195. It runs through next week (December 26th), reserve here. 330 Gough St.

One more addition to my post on Christmas Day dinners: Lily in the Inner Richmond will be open on Christmas Day (and Christmas Eve). 225 Clement St.

I noticed a sign in the window at SanJalisco Restaurant announcing their annual holiday tamales. You can preorder a dozen of your choice of chicken, pork, or vegetarian tamales for $35. You can only order by the dozen, and they must be preordered two days in advance, and prepaid for pickup at SanJalisco. Call 415-648-8383. And, did you know they’re open on Christmas Day? 11am–9pm. Feliz Navidad! 901 South Van Ness Ave. at 20th St.

Iggy’s Place let me know they’re hosting a special Hanukkah menu for dinner this Friday December 19th and Saturday the 20th, which includes their soulful matzo ball soup, vegetable dishes, latkes with spiced apple jam and sour cream, brisket with caramelized onions and horseradish aioli, and Kiev cake. $70 + tax. They also have Hanukkah packages of latkes and more you can order for takeout. Call 415-425-7795 to reserve or order. 3519 Balboa St.

A few weeks ago, I wrote about the lovely Honey & Pearl bakery in Emeryville, and their holiday lineup includes a delicious-sounding update of the classic fruitcake! 1145 65th St., Emeryville.

And for a cozy wintertime dinner, Tommaso’s Ristorante Italiano launched their first Wild Game Month. This week, they’re running elk racks roasted in their wood oven with farmers’ market apples with herbs and shallots, deglazed with 1985 PX Madeira, served with savory bread pudding. Starts Wednesday December 17th until it runs out. FYI, they’re closing Sunday December 21st for three weeks to do the yearly repair on the pizza oven, so the time to visit is now! 1042 Kearny St.

A tablehopper Last-Minute Holiday Gift Guide

OK gang, I didn’t expect to write so much about new openings this week, but that’s the news cycle for you. I’m keeping this last-minute gift guide short and sweet in case you need some ideas!

First, of course, the best gift you can give is a gift subscription to tablehopper! It fits everyone, doesn’t require shipping, tastes really good, and helps someone live their best SF life! Right now, get 25 percent off a gift subscription (until midnight on Friday December 26th—I’m keeping it live for all you last-minute gift givers). That’s just $111.75 for an annual subscription (which is $37.25 off the regular price!), and it’s a gift that keeps giving (even if that happens to be a lot of calories).

I will fully admit I was little suspect of the Cacio e Pepe Tarot deck, thinking this food-inspired tarot deck was going to be a little too light-hearted for me to ask some big questions. Wrong! I’ve been loving the artistry of the cards and their symbolism—I’ve been pulling some pretty deep reads, and I totally dig this deck. The new second edition comes with a larger, full-color guidebook tucked into a keepsake box, plus a welcome sheet to help tarot newcomers feel confident making their first pulls. At $65, it’s a cool, design-forward gift for your kitchen witch friends.

La Cocina is back with a special gift box with a variety of goodies in the La Cocina Gift Boxes! Each box is packed with a curated selection of delicious, locally made packaged foods from talented La Cocina entrepreneurs. Choose from three gift box sizes, ranging from $50–$100. Be sure to order ASAP, orders ship within 5-8 business days. 

Every year, I look forward to tasting and giving and receiving bottles of olio nuovo so we can all enjoy this wintertime gold poured over our salads and soft-boiled eggs and lentil soups and fettunta.

Market Hall in Rockridge stocks all kinds of olio nuovo—there’s a rotating selection based on the harvest timing, but right now there’s California olive oil from Bondolio, and the elegant Tonda Iblea from Italy.

The Cases started their import company, Casa de Case, over 25 years ago so they could import freshly pressed olio nuovo directly from the renowned Frantoio Olivestri. While Casa de Case sadly closed a few months ago, they reignited their operations to offer one final batch of olio nuovo! Get your bottle here before it sells out.

And for your culinary friends, Pasta Supply Co released a festive PSC Olive Oil Kit, with four olive oils for all your cooking needs: a daily driver Arbequina from Northern California, plus Meyer lemon, a strong Tuscan blend, and a chile for when you wanna get little spicy. $50.

Corto Olive Co. also makes an annual gift set, and this year’s limited-edition Agrumato-Method Gift Set includes their popular Calabrian chile olive oil (I add this to my pasta dishes often), and an aromatic lemon verbena olive oil (drizzle it over ice cream!).

If you’re looking for some stocking stuffers, allow me to recommend a few favorite hot sauces, including the locally made Scarlet Fire Hot Sauce, a steady in my hot sauce collection, and now stocked at Bi-Rite!

Another one that is totally rocking my world is the Peperoncini Hot Sauce from Mezzetta. It adds a perfect note of acidity and pop when you need it, but with its medium heat, it’s not overpowering (I’ve been adding it to sandwiches, putting it on eggs, and chilaquiles). They have some hot sauce gift boxes as well.

For coffee lovers, Mr. Espresso’s seasonal Caffè Festivo Holiday Coffee Blend is back. This limited-edition blend features “festive notes of cranberry, warming spices, and candied fruit,” made from Kenya Rung’eto Kii, Ethiopia Shantawene Natural, and Sumatra Kerinci Gunung Tujuh. (If you go into The Caffè Oakland to pick it up, you should enjoy a Bicerin alla menta on their menu.)

Some fun books for you:

Did you know Le Bistro Paul Bert just released their cookbook, Le Bistro Paul Bert: French Comfort Food from the Parisian Restaurant, in English? Learn how to make Bertrand Auboyneau’s steak au poivre and tarte tatin!

For my fellow lovers of Italian food who aren’t afraid to stray from the classics and play around a little, check out Breaking the Rules: A Fresh Take on Italian Classics by the mustachioed Joe Sasto. You can keep things simple (Mom’s meatballs) or try more complicated recipes, with the option to stay the path or break the rules (like add corn to cacio e pepe, or make truffle chile crunch pork tortellini), and he also has suggestions on what to make with any leftovers (as a queen of leftovers, I love this).

I’m always happy to receive a beautiful candle, but buying them is often a lot less fun (why are they $65 and up?). Fortunately, I discovered Candles by John, a Black-owned business here in SF that hand-pours beautifully scented candles that burn so cleanly, for just $24 (with free local delivery in SF!). I’m a fan of Curt (bergamot, spruce, cypress, sage, palo santo, patchouli, dark musk, smoke). Read more about founders Brennan and Monique here.

If you’d like some festive tunes while you wrap presents, here’s my Top It Off playlist I made for a tablehopper holiday party some years ago. (Since I ditched Spotify and moved to Qobuz, you can find it here.)

the lush

It’s Time to Get Into Some Holiday Spirits

It’s the season to warm up with some hot buttered drinks and get your eggnog on! Here are places around the City serving special holiday cocktails and menus and vibes.

Bar wizard Elmer Mejicanos is back at it, with 15 festive drinks on the Christmas at Causwells holiday menu, with all kinds of cute glassware and garnishes, like the Winter Wonderland (bourbon, passionfruit, chocolate, banana, cinnamon, lemon, Christmas lights), ube eggnog, and a Mistletoe Negroni (gin, white cacao, tarragon, cranberry, vermouth, Select aperitif). You can even enjoy some of the drinks in a pitcher that serves four for a toast with your friends. Available now through Jan 1st. 2346 Chestnut St.

And just next door at their new Super Mensch, get into your Hanukkah groove while traveling around the U.S. with The Travels of Mensch on the Shelf menu (a couple of the drinks are hot). A brown butter–washed potato vodka is highlighted in the Latkes + Vodkas cocktail (NYC), plus there’s a menorah-topped Miracle in the Windy City (Chicago), and a sufganiyot jelly doughnut Martini (SF). Available through Dec 22nd (the last day of Hanukkah). 2336 Chestnut St.

Elixir saloon really likes to get into the holiday spirits, serving hot Tom & Jerrys, house-aged eggnog, hot spiced cider, and their special hot butt rum! 3200 16th St. at Guerrero.

I just noticed the décor at Lower Nob Hill’s plant-filled Propagation has some holiday finery up and in the mix. And, there’s a holiday cookie—decorating contest on 12/17 with Highland Park! 895 Post St.

the archivist

One of the partners of the new Equal Parts at 478 Green Street in North Beach found this vintage menu from the location’s earlier incarnation as The Old Spaghetti Factory Café. I was hoping to have the time and space to write more about this beatnik café, restaurant, and cabaret from Freddy Kuh, which he opened in 1956 and ran until he retired in 1984. (If Kuh’s name is familiar, he also took over the nearby Tivoli and renamed it the Savoy Tivoli in 1967, which we wrote about in a previous archivist here.)

I need some time to dig into the colorful history of The Old Spaghetti Factory Café and share stories another day (it was a Beat hangout, and The Kingston Trio, as well as Robin Williams performed there)!