This week’s tablehopper: flip it. (free)

what’s cookin’

WHAT. A. TIME. I’m still absorbing the magnitude of what we just witnessed last week with the midterms. The return of hope is beyond potent—I felt my soul exhale, bringing a new lightness in my heart, bubbling with a much-needed blast of optimism. And this week? Mississippi goddam! Power to the people! Here’s to every single person who got out the vote. As a sticker on my fridge says, “My favorite season is the fall of fascism.” LFG!

Last week was fittingly packed with celebrations—I hoped to get this newsletter out last Friday, but there was just too much going on in the world and my own life and work. My birthday present to myself was to take last weekend off to host a best friend who was in town to celebrate our Scorpio birthdays—it felt like a victory lap on the dance floor at Audio on Saturday evening, shakin’ our tail feathers to New York icon Danny Krivit and local house legend David Harness, and we closed out the night with longtime friends at The Stud. On Sunday, we recovered at No Fun! in the beer garden at Casements, thanks to the dreamy-balmy fall weather we’ve had (shout-out to the ever-restorative powers of their Belfast Coffee). 

Last Monday, it was such an honor to emcee Perbacco’s 20th anniversary party—I got to touch upon some of owner Umberto Gibin’s rich SF hospitality history, like working at Ernie’s when he first arrived here in 1979, and Masa’s, and Ciao, where he met Larry Mindel of Spectrum Group (they went on to expand Il Fornaio bakeries into restaurants together), before striking out on his own to open Perbacco in 2006, not too long after I launched tablehopper. I remember it well.

His wife, Leslie Gibin, was glowing in her ever-elegant fashion, and the room was full of culinary colleagues and icons, like the ever-feisty Joyce Goldstein (91 years old and counting!), the ebullient Joanne Weir, and it was wonderful to visit with Larry Mindel. My favorite part of the evening was when Umberto called forward each and every person on the team, sharing how long they’ve been working at Perbacco—it stood testament to who he is as an operator, since many were there for more than 10–15 years. Auguri!

On Saturday, I attended yet another special 20th anniversary celebration: a lively afternoon street party for Biondivino in Russian Hill. It was a treat to raise a glass to founder Ceri Smith (in her sparkling disco pants), who’s now living in Paris with her beau. Over 20 years ago, after working for wine importers both here and in New York (she rolled deep in the restaurant world there), Ceri decided to do her own thing in SF and opened the stylish, orange-accented Biondivino in 2006 (with an orange Vespa parked in the window at night), the first wine boutique to dive deep and focus entirely on the artisanal gems of Italy.

She shared that her inspiration stemmed (yes, I’m punny like that) from noticing how diners would taste wonderful Italian wines in restaurants, but they couldn’t find or buy the bottle they loved later, nor were there many places to discover and buy wine from smaller, low-intervention, and biodynamic producers from all over Italy, from the top to the toe of the boot. As she observed, she was highlighting and supporting the natural wine movement in her shop years before it was even called that. Here’s to years of sharing her passion for Italian wines with her dedicated customers and community. Cin cin!

And now, to the future! Our local goddess of Italian grapes (and cuisine and culture), Shelley Lindgren, is about to open her second soulful salute to Southern Italy, Lucania, next Thursday November 19th (it’s opening in the former MarketBar at the Ferry Building). She has been bringing this dream restaurant concept to fruition with DOC Hospitality (A16) co-owner/operator Kitty Oestlien—they also co-founded Tansy Wines together. After taking a tour of the stunningly textured space last month (designed by Mariana Velásquez), and watching the restaurant creep slowly and ever-closer to opening, the date suddenly got pushed back when a piece of kitchen equipment needed to be replaced, mannaggia, but now the part has arrived, and it’s all systems go!

This past Monday night, I was thrilled to attend a private industry preview dinner there, thanks to Hot Chefs (presented by Square). It was favoloso to see the restaurant full of chefs and F&B guests (dining family-style, even better), and Lucania’s beaming staff in their spiffy uniforms with jaunty scarves.

I kicked off with a gin-apricot sour cocktail from bar director Craig Lane, and, at last, I finally got to taste some of chef Massimo Carleo’s seasonal Lucanian dishes (he’s collaborating with co-executive chef Yosuke Machida) on such elegant custom plates, like rafanata (a frittata from Basilicata with horseradish and aged cheese); artisanal spaghetti (from Pasta Caterina) with a scrumptious salt cod ragù studded with petite pieces of Ferrandina olives (it was love at first bite); orecchiette with tender chanterelles topped with a slew of savory golden breadcrumbs fried with peperoni cruschi; and slices of pillowy pane di Matera to mop up the sauces alla scarpetta. The evening ended with abundant platters of fruit that looked like they were taken from a still-life painting, an elegant Monte Bianco from pastry chef Charlie Guyard, plus the creamiest panna cotta, and mignardises from Anna Piazza.

There’s much to write about Lucania—a major project in San Francisco’s current restaurant resurgence—but I’m supposed to sit tight on sharing images of the space until next week. So, I’ll just say this for now: SF has a new jewel at the Ferry Building, and I can’t wait to hang out on the spacious, weather-proofed piazza with a plate of marinated anchovies and peperoni cruschi and whatever beautiful thing Shelley wants to pour into my wineglass. I already booked a table for next weekend, so I will share more with you about the unique concept, chef Massimo’s background, the menu, and design details soon.

On Tuesday, I was fortunate to receive a last-minute invite to a special collaboration dinner at Maria Isabel with host chefs Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz, joined by chef Santiago Lastra of London’s Kol, in honor of the release of his debut cookbook, Mexican Soul. What a menu, what a night! Bar consultant Evan Williams concocted inspired pairings with Tequila Ocho, including a shot of Ocho Blanco La Coruña, backed up with a brilliant pumpkin michelada with some warming spices (so fun!)—it was pure sorcery with the adobo taco gaonera, featuring a glistening, succulent slice of 32-day-aged wagyu ribeye on a housemade red cónico heirloom corn tortilla with a trio of salsas. I want to return for that trifecta again and again (the tequila, michelada, and taco!). After that dinner, SF wasn’t the only thing a little foggy the next morning, heh heh.

Wednesday morning, I was out the door since I was invited back for a fifth time to speak at The Century Club of California, a historic women’s club (since 1888), where Julia Morgan was a member. I spoke about the current state of dining in SF, with my top picks for the latest dishes and places to eat, how to get reservations, and where to go for holiday goodies. It’s a San Francisco treat to explore the club and meet new people over lunch in their tasteful dining room. Thank you for having me back!

So, I’ve had an insane number of presentations, proposals, events, emails, parties, and personal things to manage the past two weeks, so today’s column is more like a 24-piece box of chocolates—stand by for some in-depth opening stories soon. Lucky me/us, Savannah Leone Bundy is back contributing to tablehopper—I love having her byline here!

I’m heading out of town with my sister to attend a weekend shindig in Lake Tahoe, so I’m sending this from the passenger seat of her car, if you can believe that. Riders on the storm. And, we’re also going to be doing some cabin maintenance, so I’ll be mostly offline until the middle of next week. I’ll see ya when I see ya—don’t float or blow away in the meantime!

XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Lower the Drawbridge! Julius Castle Reopens on Telegraph Hill, Evoking Countless Memories for Past Diners, While Making New Ones for Future Generations

Last Tuesday, I was ecstatic to get a private tour of the greatly anticipated and lovingly restored Julius Castle, a return many of us have hoped for and wondered about for years. I love writing this: Julius Castle just opened for dinner on Thursday November 12th. Owner Paul Scott really persevered through interminable permitting snags and endless delays to get it open after purchasing it back in 2012, what a champ. The panoramas are truly breathtaking—I gasped when I walked up to the dining room on the first level and saw the expansive view. 

There’s much to write about our curious castle perched on top of Telegraph Hill, including the restoration, the new design features, the garden, the menu, the cocktails, and the wine list. And, of course, the history! I’m poring through my vintage SF books so I can share some fabulous stories of the iconic and century-old destination. The team has been busy with getting the restaurant open, so stand by for a more-detailed piece from me once I can confirm a few things, but for now, the website went live, so you can see some pictures and take a first look at the menu from executive chef Christopher Santopinto. 

Don’t drive there (it’s impossible to park), although they do offer valet parking. 302 Greenwich St.

Fisherman’s Wharf Welcomes a Black-Owned, Bay Area Barbecue Institution Back to SF

Wonderful news for SF: the East Bay’s iconic Everett and Jones Barbeque has returned to SF with a new location the former Lou’s Restaurant and Blues at Pier 47 in Fisherman’s Wharf (there used to be a location on 3rd Street from 1977–1989, but it reportedly closed after damage from the Loma Prieta quake). You really should take a minute to read the history of this Oakland-born, family business that was started by Dorothy Everett with her eight daughters, one son, and son-in-law (Jones) in 1973. The SF Chronicle reports “Dorcia White, granddaughter of Everett and Jones founder Dorothy Everett, is overseeing the San Francisco restaurant along with her sisters.” R3 Builders remodeled the two-level, 4,363-square-foot space, take a look and here’s a video. There are outdoor seats, too.

You can order their popular smoked pork ribs (get the sauce on the side), brisket, housemade beef links, and smoked chicken in a variety of lunch and dinner plates and combinations, plus brisket nachos, BBQ wings, salads, and a significant dessert lineup of cakes, pies, cobbler, and banana pudding.

Here’s info on a ribbon-cutting on Friday November 20th. Open Sun–Thu 11am–9pm, Fri–Sat 11am–10:30pm. 300 Jefferson St. at Jones (how appropriate). 

Casual Openings, from Super Duper to Sandos to Even More Hand Rolls and Matcha Clouds 

Moves, Closures, and New Projects Moving In

In Japantown, one of my favorite counters for affordable and well-prepared sushi, Sasa Japanese Restaurant, will be closing its current location on December 20th, after eight years in Japan Center East Mall (their lease is up). Sasa will be reopening in the former and nearby Pa’ina Lounge...

A16 Rockridge Revitalizes Their Space and Menu

by Savannah Leone Bundy 

A16 Rockridge has been celebrating Italian culture and tradition since 2012, and now there’s a new menu and aperitivo hour in their upgraded dining room. The refreshed space has new floors, paint, and vibes, while the updated menu features new antipasti, an expanded cocktail menu (by bar director Craig Lane, formerly of Bar Agricole), and a continued focus on traditional Neapolitan pizza, with ten new pies!

Aperitivo hour (4pm–6pm; dine-in only) allows guests to ease into the evening with wine (by the glass, half bottle, or full bottle), a seasonal aperitivo, and light bites (fried or marinated olives, $5; arancini, $10; Margherita pizza, $15) in true Italian fashion before digging into the dinner menu. 

In addition to an impressive antipasti and fritti selection—including items like fried black cod and roasted calamari—they’ve got braised oxtail cavatelli ($34), squid ink tonnarelli (shrimp, calamari, mussels, garlic, chile, pangratatto; $32), and a lovely-looking kohlrabi salad (arugula, fennel, caper, Grana Padano, lemon, olive oil; $22).

Pizza offerings include the seasonal zucca (delicata squash, crema di cipolla, pancetta, Grana Padano, caciocavallo, fior di latte, Calabrian chile oil; $27); their irresistible montanara (fried dough, smoked tomato sauce, burrata, basil; $25); arrabbiata (tomato, mozzarella di bufala, Grana Padano, pancetta, red onion, Calabrian chile; $27); capricciosa (tomato, fior di latte, mushroom, artichoke, prosciutto cotto, basil, garlic; $28); and bianca (fior di latte, Grana Padano, basil, Castelvetrano olive, garlic, chile; $25). Open Sun–Thu 4pm–9pm; Fri–Sat 4pm–9:30pm. 5356 College Ave. at Manila, Oakland. 

The Return of Wild Game Week (Without Rattlesnake Sausage This Time)

the lush

Raise Your Stein and Wine Glass at These Events Around the Bay

by Savannah Leone Bundy

On Sunday November 15th, Merchants of Thirst is hosting its inaugural natural wine festival in collaboration with Saint Joseph’s Art Society and Big West Studios. Salon! Salon! Salon!—inspired by the classic French wine salon—is bringing together independent California winemakers and a host of importers to ring in the holiday season.

Local vintners like Powicana Farm, Terah Wine Co., Les Lunes, Cormorant Cellars, and Tessier Winery will share the stage with European, South American, and Oceanic companies, serving hand-selected varieties, along with oysters and fruits de mer from The Salty Pearl, bistro bites from Petit Americain, and espresso and affogatos from Quiet Earth Coffee. 

Tastings begin at 2pm, followed by a 5pm–8pm party with more wine, and live music by Jazz Mafia, plus a lineup of surprise DJs and performers. Tickets are $80/person and available here. Be sure to keep your eyes and ears open for the list of afterparties happening throughout the city. 2pm–8pm. 1401 Howard St. at 10th St. 

Fort Point Henhouse is releasing their annual Manzanita Smoked Altbier and Fort Point Valencia is hosting a Manzanita Night party on Saturday November 14th to celebrate. The dark yet light-bodied beer is Fort Point’s take on Bamberg-style smoked beer. It’s brewed with smoked malt and charred local manzanita branches to create a flavor profile that’s nutty, sweet, savory, and herbal all at once. It’ll be on cask and gravity-poured at the event, and served alongside selections from Schlenkerla (Bamberg, Germany’s 600-year-old smoked beer brewery) and Freigeist (an experimental German brewery that riffs on historic brewing styles). There will also be limited-run Manzanita steins and first-run, four-packs of this season’s brew. 

The party starts at 5pm—with an opening tap and toast at 5:30pm—and goes ’til close (11pm). You can RSVP here. 742 Valencia St. at 18th St. 

UNFILTERED wine festival’s November panel (Shaping California Wine: Hispanic Winemakers and the Making of California Wine) on Thursday November 19th is an unpacking and celebration of California’s complicated wine history. David Salazar of Reclamación Wines—the son of California wine industry workers—will discuss the unsung labor of indigenous and Mexican people that shaped the state’s world-renowned wine culture, along with Karina Gallegos (Sidedoor Cellars), Victor Mendoza (Suspiró Wines), and Cecy Castillo (Mi Casa Wine Co.), moderated by Matt Wood (Indie Wine Podcast) at Donkey & Goat in Berkeley.

Doors open at 5pm; the discussion will run from 6:30pm–7:45pm, and will be recorded for the Indie Wine Podcast, with a reception and tasting immediately following. Tickets are $15 at the door and include a half glass of wine, along with an extensive tasting of the winemakers’ pours. 1340 5th St. at Gilman, Berkeley. 

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