what’s cookin’
Happy Wednesday (which reminds me of the Happy Wednesdays weekly acid house party with DJ Joey Beltram that I used to go to in the early ’90s in Redondo Beach, and I can’t believe I just found an article in the L.A. Times about it!). Bless the online archives.
Yes, yours truly is gonna rave to the grave. On Saturday night, it was a dancing double play, starting at Club Darc at Pier 48 for a groovy set by DJ Harvey (although, hilariously, the only thing dark was the sticker they made us put over our phone camera—the warehouse was cool, but the overhead lighting was way too bright). If you want to enter to win pair of tickets to see Underworld this weekend, don’t miss the sugar mama today (below!).
After Harvey’s set wrapped, we skedaddled on over to the Great Northern for Om Records’ 30th anniversary night party, a label that has been part of my SF soundtrack for almost all of the 31 years I have lived here. It was such an SF reunion on the friendly dance floor: I ran into club kids I used to dance with at Universe, friends from the early years of Burning Man, and my advertising days—what a fun blast of community and older SF party people who came out to boogie.
But, Dear Great Northern, how much longer do we have to suffer on that swampy AF dance floor? There’s no ventilation and I always die when it’s a packed night. I brought a fan and people were begging me to fan their faces. It’s way past time to install some serious overhead fans, come ON. Love, ~me
More quick notes on anniversaries: I just noticed that Suppenküche is turning 33 and holding a 90s party with DJ Hardkiss this Friday, and Sushi Ran is turning 40! Their anniversary dinners on May 13th and 20th are sold out, but be sure to wish Taka a happy anniversary the next time you’re there.
On Sunday, we had a beautiful Mother’s Day family brunch at Crustacean—Mom loved the elegant dining room and the light, flavorful dishes. Standouts included the crispy chicken rolls, the caviar and crispy langoustine roll, and whole branzino (I wish the recipe was in the An: To Eat cookbook, that sauce is magic). Of course, everyone swooned over the AN’s famous garlic-roasted Dungeness crab and the garlic noodles. Thanks to the team for making the off-menu [supporting subscribers get the dish!] for us—it’s such an unexpected winner of a dish. Special brunch items included an ube pancake with matcha Chantilly, and the luxe “boh koh” wagyu beef hash. Here’s hoping they host future brunches—what a chic setting for a daytime celebration.
We also raised our glasses of Champagne to our dear and sparkly Great Auntie Helen, AKA Helzi, my grandmother’s vivacious younger sister, who just left us last week at the extraordinary age of 94. Those two glamorous dames are back together, drinking the good stuff in heaven’s VIP room, with all their beloved dogs sitting on their laps. I’m dedicating this week’s newsletter to her memory—Auntie Helen had great taste and loved art and really enjoyed her wine and cocktails. Such a brassy bon vivant. Her warm laugh will be missed. To Helzi! 🍸
This week, I’m taking a step back from reporting on a bunch of local restaurant news so I could write up part one of my highlights from my recent jaunt to New York City. (I’ll have part two for you next week, it got too long!) This trip was my tablehopper 20th anniversary gift to myself, since no one is going to give me a gold watch or a promotion. Thanks to my supporting subscribers, who helped pay for my meals there (and enabled me to even be able to take that trip at all), so my New York jetsetter piece is behind the paywall.
I’m burning the midnight oil this week so I can clock out early to head up to Forestville to stay with some kind friends who invited me to their cabin! We’re going to take a break from floating on the river to attend this Saturday’s The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting (it’s quite the epic tasting, with 150+ wines, beers, spirits, and bites) at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience. There are all kinds of lunches, dinners, musical performances, and more happening all weekend (May 14th–17th)—check out the previous sponsored event post, and that’s where you’ll find a discount code! The weather is looking gorgeous: get outta the gray and go enjoy some low 80s!
Keep it sunny,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Gary Rulli Ends His Residency on Chestnut Street After 22 Years
After first opening Emporio Rulli Gran Caffè on Chestnut Street, and then updating the space to transform it into Ristobar in 2020, owner Gary Rulli is holding the final service for his neighborhood Italian restaurant and bar on Memorial Day (May 25th). He had some really talented chefs come through that kitchen, like Angelo Auriana, Alberto “Berto” Chan Bautista, and I remember having Michele Belotti’s casoncelli for the first time when he started there in 2011. Ristobar had a dynamic list of Italian wines, and wonderful desserts, of course. Grazie for all the Italian excellence! I’m going to miss having this SF outpost to pick up Rulli’s coffee beans and cakes since his bakery is in Larkspur.
The press release states, “the space will continue in a new direction through a partnership with Eria Events, a Marin-based hospitality and events company led by entrepreneur Nikita Khandheria. We’ll be sharing more about the future of the space and what comes next in the coming weeks.” 2300 Chestnut St. at Scott.
Hardware Coffee Co. Opens a Two-Level Café in West Portal
Thanks to longtime tablehopper subscriber Barron L., who alerted me to the soft opening of the spacious Hardware Coffee Co. in West Portal. This is their second location, an all-day café (designed by Brittany Busacca) in the former Papenhausen Hardware store that has a mezzanine with all kinds of seating upstairs and skylights.
the jetsetter
New York City: Part One
I’m kicking myself for letting so much time pass since my last visit to New York City, which was in 2019. Don’t be like me. This recent springtime trip I had filled me with so much exhilaration and visual input and inspiration. Since I was attending the Cherry Bombe Jubilee conference, I only had four full days to explore and run around and try to catch up with friends, but I did my best! My list of things to eat and see there is always too long.
I hit up a couple museums (the beautiful Cooper Hewitt for the Art of Noise exhibit, and the Whitney Biennial), and caught Running Through Heaven: Visions of Jack Kerouac at the Grolier Club, the oldest existing bibliophilic club in North America. I strolled through Central Park admiring its springy finery, and got a kick out of watching all the people with their dogs on the Upper East Side, and the parents picking up their kids in matching uniforms from private school… There’s nothing like the people watching in New York.
My favorite color moment was spotting the fabulous Debra Rapaport in her blue shades on the subway platform (you would know her from the Advanced Style documentary and book). We had a fun chat—it ends up she lived in SF and Berkeley from 1967–1979. Icon! What a perfect New York sighting (for me).
More style: I’m so grateful a friend reminded me to not miss the new...
It’s like buying me the amazing smoked salmon bagel that I want you to know about (it was so good that I went back again). And you’ll love reading about the most stylish, sexy restaurant I have dined at in a long while. 🥂
Next week, I’ll share part two, with French bistros, hoagies, and more!
the sugar mama
Party On, Wayne! Party On, Garth! Enter to Win Two Tickets to See Underworld at Club Darc This Saturday
This Saturday May 16th is the last night of Goldenvoice Bay Area’s inaugural season of Club Darc at Pier 48’s Shed A on McCovey Cove. The headliner is Underworld, who put on a helluva show the last time I saw them at Portola Festival. Also on deck is The Dare (DJ Set), Mall Grab B2B Effy, yaego, and Bad Juuju.
I have one pair of tickets to give away to this Saturday May 16th’s show, which runs from 7pm–2am (21+). Since I went to Club Darc this last weekend, here are some hopper tips:
