This week’s tablehopper: meaty. (free)

what’s cookin’

Hi gang! Can you believe everything going on right now? Valentine’s Day! Lunar New Year! New moon! Solar eclipse! Mardi Gras! Ramadan! Ash Wednesday! Torrential rain! I’m glad the three-day weekend coincided with all these happenings so we had more time to enjoy it all. 

Happy Year of the Fire Horse! It’s the best time of the year to head to Chinatown and soak in all the celebratory energy (🧨) and festive décor (🏮) and culinary delights (🥟), but there are folks making special Lunar New Year treats all over the City—take a look at last week’s LNY post for ideas (supporting subscribers: did you see the pineapple jade stone I included?).

Last night, I was wishing I could go out for a Lunar New Year dinner, but since I was stuck at my desk on deadline, I ordered some of my favorite takeout from Gourmet Carousel on Franklin: their top-notch scallion pancake (one of my top three in SF—and certainly the City’s best deal at just $4, I kid you not!), their excellent pot stickers (fried just-golden and they’re not too doughy), wonton soup... [supporting subscribers get a solid pro tip], and honey-walnut prawns. (I munched a tangerine 🍊 for my lucky dessert.) This place is such a gem: the homestyle food is consistently well-executed, fresh, and fast, and the portions are huge—it’s one of my top takeout joints. I have some other can’t-miss dishes there as well—stand by for a post soon!

This past weekend, it was a perfect time to curl up with a movie with all the rain. If you’re a Godard fan, I had such a fun double feature at home: Richard Linklater’s charming Nouvelle Vague (it’s on Netflix), and then I rewatched Breathless (it has been at least a decade since I last saw it, but I have seen it multiple times—if you don’t remember the film well, I’d watch it before Nouvelle Vague). 

To continue my vintage film binge, and in honor of Black History Month, I watched the campy and iconic Mahogany, which I haven’t seen in years (it turned 50 last year!). Cue up “Do You Know Where You’re Going To?”

What a visual banquet: the FASHUNS, the scenes of Rome, the airborne Iso Grifo, and smokin’ hot Billy Dee Williams.

OK, back to SF things: I enjoyed reading this history backgrounder on the 54 Mint building from the new Special City newsletter (by San Francisco Heritage)—it was once a candy factory! And sign up for their newsletter—they’re also on the Ghost platform (like tablehopper) instead of the problematic Substack (which continues to host and collect money from Nazi newsletters, so gross).

Last night, I was happy to see an update about the future of The Phoenix Hotel bubble up in my RSS feed. I had noticed The Phoenix was still open and booking rooms after it was supposed to close in late January, and I kept hearing rumors and rumblings that something was potentially happening and the hotel wasn’t closing after all. I continued to check in with Isabel Manchester, a previous managing partner of the hotel and restaurant, but she wasn’t able to share anything definitive about property owner Michel Suas’s plans. 

And now, Mission Local spotted some paperwork about a new operator: “an LLC named ‘Phoenix Hotel TL’ took ownership of the address at 601 Eddy St. That LLC is associated with an address for Binoy Patel, a local hotelier and investor who once managed the nearby Civic Center Inn, once notorious for being one of the cheapest — and most chaotic — hotels in the Tenderloin.” So, while I’m thrilled to see The Phoenix stay open and that Suas was able to find another operator, I have many questions about what The Phoenix’s future will look like (and will the amazing staff remain there?). Hopefully, Patel and Suas will be able to go on record soon, and may there be many more years of Pride parties and New Year’s Eve dancing by the pool!

OK, friends, let’s get into today’s newsletter, which has quite the hodgepodge of bites and news. Stay toasty, and thanks to all of you who continue to write such sweet notes while renewing your subscription! Here’s this week’s favorite email (it was better than a Valentine): “Mazel Tov on 20 delicious years. I’ve been a devoted follower since the beginning. You are a treasured jewel in San Francisco’s crown. Here’s to (at least) 20 more years!” 🥂

Wishing good health and prosperity and happiness to all! 
🧧🍊🔥🐴
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Slanted Door Group Continues to Keep the Legacy and Memory of Chef Charles Phan Shining Brightly

With the great news about the continuation of The Phoenix Hotel, here’s even more uplifting news about an SF icon for you. I’ve been in touch with The Slanted Door Group about a few things lately, and I’m excited to report they are still planning to reopen Slanted Door San Francisco in its original location at 584 Valencia Street. Their best guess at the moment is they will be reopening in early 2027, and they think they’ll have a better sense of timing by late summer. I’ll keep you posted, naturally.

With the tragic passing of chef Charles Phan one year ago (January 20th, 2025), followed by his longtime architect Olle Lundberg last October 31st, reopening the original Slanted Door location will poignantly honor both of their memories.

There is a moving video of testimonials and remembrances that were recorded at the Celebration of Life for Charles Phan last March at Fort Mason—the video sequence will be going live tomorrow (on February 19th), but the family kindly let me share the YouTube link with you early since it didn’t synchronize with my newsletter deadline.

Also launching this Thursday February 19th is The Next Table, a three-part collaborative dinner series to honor the life and legacy of chef Charles Phan. Created in collaboration with The Slanted Door’s executive chef Dong Choi, Philip Tessier of PRESS Restaurant, and Darryl Bell of Stateline Road Smokehouse, the series brings the trio of chefs together for three different, dynamic, and communal dinners, with an evolving menu that will incorporate classic Vietnamese tradition, refined French technique, and live-fire smokehouse cooking. 

Here are some thoughtful words and remembrances from the trio of chefs about Charles and why they’re launching this dinner series:

“This spring marks ten years working with the Phan family, and it all started with a chance meeting with Charles that changed my life,” says chef Dong Choi, executive chef of The Slanted Door Group. “He was an icon, but what stood out most was his humility. Continuing his culinary vision at The Slanted Door, especially as we recently celebrated the second anniversary of our Napa Valley location, is both an honor and a responsibility I carry forward.”

“Charles had a way of leading in the kitchen that was both calm and deeply intentional,” says chef Darryl Bell, founder and co-owner of Stateline Road Smokehouse. “He taught me to trust the process, never cut corners, and always do things the right way. When I was opening Stateline Road, he went out of his way to guide me—down to personally delivering a $40,000smoker he offered to generously give us to help us launch the restaurant. That standard of care, craft, and commitment continues to shape how I build and lead my kitchen today.”

“I met Charles in 2017 and he quickly became a trusted advisor, collaborator, and, ultimately, friend,” says chef Philip Tessier, managing partner at PRESS Restaurant. “In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, when we were looking for a way to reenergize the team and reconnect with our community, he showed up without hesitation—partnering with us for a Slanted Door ‘Pop-Out’ at PRESS and spending Sundays with us building a new hearth by hand, simply because he believed in what we were creating. The Next Table is our way of honoring the generosity and impact he had on all of us.”

The first The Next Table dinner is this Thursday February 19th at The Slanted Door Napa; the second collaborative dinner is Tuesday March 10th at Stateline Road Smokehouse; and Thursday April 23rd will be the third and final dinner at PRESS Restaurant. You can read more about this week’s dinner at The Slanted Door Napa here (which will have some Lunar New Year–inspired dishes) and reserve here.

A New Waterfront Restaurant Is Coming from The Hi Neighbor Group

Sequels from Smokin’ D’s BBQ, Suavecito, and Super Duper

There’s a new taqueria in the former Chisme Cantina (which seems to have closed around the holidays—I know folks are gonna miss their jackfruit tacos)...

Castro News Bites

After the splashy reopening of The Castro Theatre, I’ve been wondering about the fate of the Castro Coffee Co. and Castro Nail Salon that flank either side of the theater—last year, the longtime businesses didn’t have their leases renewed and were being evicted so theater manager Another Planet Entertainment could utilize their spaces to host an expanded box office.

There has been an ongoing saga about what would happen next, and according to this recent update in the BAR: “the former Double Rainbow Ice Cream at 415 Castro Street will be home to Lisa’s Hair Design after the Castro Coffee Co. [at 427 Castro] moves to the current Lisa’s space at 421 Castro Street. The Castro Nail Salon at 431 Castro Street will move to a location on the 500 block. It’s all part of a deal brokered by Mayor Daniel Lurie and gay Board of Supervisors President Rafael Mandelman, as the newly-reopened Castro Theatre has indicated it will be expanding into the current coffee shop and nail salon storefronts.” I’m glad owner Ken Khoury’s coffee shop can continue on the same side of the street and be so close to its original location—that spot is like an outdoor living room for their regulars in the afternoon. 427 Castro St. and 431 Castro St.

More Castro news from the BAR: a new sandwich shop called Gada has opened in the former Chadwick’s. Tunisian-American owner Moe Abibi is making melty raclette sandwiches on housemade melawi (Tunisian flatbread) with harissa, filled with choices like sausage and onion, chicken, prosciutto, a breakfast setup (sausage, egg, and cheese), and more. 2375 Market St.

I’m hoping to try a sandwich this week (and get more details) when I head over to the GLBT Historical Society Museum to catch the last days of the I Live the Life I Love Because I Love the Life I Live (A Celebration of Trans People of Color) exhibit, which is suddenly closing Sunday February 22nd.

fresh meat

It’s Definitely Beef Bourguignon Weather, and Mon Dieu, Do I Have a Dream Sandwich for You

the lush

Two Pizza Guys Walk Into a Bar…and Decide to Make it Their Own

It makes perfect sense that Outta Sight Pizza’s co-founders Eric Ehler and Peter Dorrance are taking over the recently closed Pomeroy Bar & Grill on Larkin (formerly Shovels and Harry Harrington’s Pub) for their third project, Reggie and Maude’s. The building is just up the street from Outta Sight, and dates back to 1911—the corner location has been a pub, tavern, speakeasy, or liquor store for decades (you can read the history here). 

These two Tenderloin community-minded, Mister Jiu’s alums plan to offer quality and delicious (yet still affordable) bar food and cocktails to really serve the neighborhood—it sounds like burgers may continue on there, and considering Ehler’s burger skills at Black Sands Brewery and Fort Point, it’s gonna crush.

Mission Local explains the name Reggie and Maude’s is: “a nod to two madams in the Tenderloin vice district, Reggie Gamble and Maude Spencer, who in 1917 were leaders in the sex workers’ rights movement as the city moved to evict hundreds of brothels.” The team hopes to open this summer after some updates to the kitchen and space. 460 Larkin St. at Turk.

tableshopper

How Do You DOU: A Trio of Sauces That Tells the Stories of the Three Generations Behind a Family Business

I’ve known my SF friend Felicity Chen from the early days of her cannabis-infused honey (HoneyPot), followed by her cannabis-infused olive oil, sriracha, and apple cider vinegar under the Potli brand—and don’t forget her shrimp chips—and then there were her low-dose gummies (I will miss you, ginger chews). I’ve always appreciated the quality, great taste, and wide range of her infused products, and it makes a lot more sense when I learned she is the third generation helping to run her family’s food product business, Union Food Co. 

Here’s more from Chen: “Lian How, which translates to ‘Union’ in Chinese, is a family-owned sesame oil company that was founded by my grandfather in Taiwan. My grandfather was a refugee from China who traveled to Taiwan and then to the United States to build a better life for his family. He is a pioneer in the sauce and spice industry, developing a traditional method of making sesame oil that is still used today by our family business.”

The company makes their quality sesame oil (and other oils), sauces, and imports additional ingredients and products under the Lian How and Uncle Chen brands, which many local restaurants use.

And now, for her next trick, Chen has launched DOU (pronounced “dough”) by Uncle Chen, a direct-to-consumer product line for sale online, which highlights her grandpa’s roasted sesame oil, her parents’ sriracha, and her own chili-spiked snack oil. You can buy them individually, in gallon size, or get the trio of products that reflect the three generations in a gift set here. (To be clear, none of these are cannabis-infused!)

I’ve been taking all three pantry products for a test drive for the past month, and I love the nozzle on the squeeze bottle they come in, making for a fast and measured squirt (I hate it when I pour too much sesame oil into a stir-fry or over a dish).

The nutty and rich, toasted flavor of her grandfather’s handmade sesame oil is something special, and so is the traditional process they still use to make it: “it’s made with the finest African sesame seeds, which are hand-shaken in traditional baskets to extract the purest oil.” The sesame seeds are roasted low and slow, and then cold-pressed. I’ve been enjoying cooking with it: while aromatic, it’s elegant and not overpowering.

The punchy, garlicky sriracha chile sauce tastes fresh and bright, and it’s made from sun-ripened red jalapeños sourced from small farms, and fermented in small batches, with no preservatives or fillers. It’s so tasty on pizza, eggs, and with beef chow fun!

I saved the best for last. My favorite is the chili snack oil, made with extra virgin olive oil, toasted chiles, and whole Sichuan peppercorns—it has a slight kick, but nothing crazy (this oil is perfect for people sensitive to spice). You know when you want a little heat, but not tooooo much, like over your wonton noodle soup, or fried rice? This is it! The olive oil adds a bit of flavor, but is still neutral—I’ve been frying my eggs in it, and giving my dumplings a drizzle—it’s nice and light on its feet. I’m just gonna say this product is genius and hasn’t left my stash of frequent flyer oils near my stove since I opened it. Good thing it comes in a hefty bottle (16 oz.).

You can purchase a set of all three DOU by Uncle Chen oils and sauces here. Need inspo? Here are some recipes to try. Follow along at @eatdou.

the archivist

Gong Hei Fat Choi! 🧧