what’s cookin’
Beep beep! Your tablehopper finally screeched her Fiat 500 into a parking place back here in the City after a long weekend cruising along beautiful Sonoma County roads—springtime is truly breathtaking up there. Last Friday, I headed up to Orsi Family Vineyards for my first event for the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience weekend (HWFE)—we enjoyed an alfresco barbecue lunch from Matt Horn (bring on the smoked chicken and pit beans) and the new A&M BBQ in Sebastopol (I loved Kris Austin’s Texas-style pork ribs and mac and cheese). The sun was blazing, and my glass of Orsi’s Biancolella d’Ischia kept me refreshed (along with Cantina Mesa’s Giunco Vermentino di Sardegna, Bricoleur’s 2023 rosé of grenache, and Moonlight Brewing Co.’s pale dry lager).
That afternoon, I was off to a truly magical tasting at Mascarin Family Wines (I can’t wait to share more about this dreamy place!) with winemaker Matt Taylor (who makes the dynamic Dalya Estate chardonnay), followed by an aperitivo party at Idlewild’s tasting room in Healdsburg. Winemakers Sam Bilbro and Dan Petroski (Massican) were pouring their collaborative wines alongside some creative bites—I made sure to pick up a bottle of Idlewild Flora & Fauna rosé (which is becoming one of my favorite summer wines).
Saturday was full-on, starting with a morning pick-up of my PopUp Bagels order at SingleThread (I enjoyed a chewy and golden bagel over a cortado at an outdoor table at Flying Goat Coffee), and swung by The Matheson’s Rooftop Lounge for some bumps of California Caviar and Champagne and a bite of pizza (it’s always a fun scene there for HWFE—Dustin Valette knows how to throw a party).
It was time to meet up with friends for the HWFE Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting! The extensive lineup of top-notch wines, bites, apéritifs, spirits, and more was pretty over the top, and thankfully, Graffeo Coffee was there to revive us with their dark roast. I loved running into so many industry friends while making new pals, and it’s a pleasure to be outside, but under big tents, so you don’t roast in the sun. It’s a great wine and food tasting, the caliber of participants is really notable. I closed out the day back at The Matheson’s Rooftop Lounge, and it was a true pleasure to hang out with Cameron Crowe, the talented journalist and filmmaker behind one of my favorite films (Almost Famous). Pinch me!
But really, the dream continued all weekend long during my stay at The Dalya Estate (just minutes from Forestville), and while I’m going to share more about this breathtaking property very soon, for now, let me tell you, it was a Sonoma paradise that I had to literally pry myself away from (knowing I had to get home to feed Fortuna her dinner was a powerful motivator). From the blooming flowers and gorgeous landscaping, to the expansive home’s open layout and tranquil view of neighboring vineyards (and a perfectly situated lap pool), it was such a peaceful and elegant retreat. I felt myself fully relax and exhale for the first time in a while. I’m so glad I left my laptop at home and got to unplug for a weekend. Grazie mille, cara Dalya, you are a gracious host!
Another bonus: I was staying just six minutes from Iron Horse Vineyards, and what a treat it was to hang out with the Sterling family at their garden party on Sunday. It started with a splash of Joy! (en magnum) and continued with lovely pours (naturally, I was drinking Fairy Tale) over a springy luncheon from Duskie Estes and John Stewart. Walking through the beauteous garden that was CEO Joy Sterling’s father’s pride and joy filled my heart with happiness…and joy! I’m lucky that my parents belong to Iron Horse’s wine club, so their sparkling wines are a big part of our family meals and gatherings. Thank you to the Sterlings for sharing their slice of heaven with us.🥂
A funny side note: while enjoying lunch on the terrace with Iron Horse matriarch Audrey Sterling, I met an executive from Uber who was sitting at our table. Great timing! I told her about the two Uber couriers who stole my Basuku cheesecakes (especially precious since Charles Chen is winding down production here, sniff sniff), and she did me a big favor and was able to escalate my support tickets—the two thieving drivers are now being investigated (yes!), and I was given some credits as compensation. I’m so grateful for her intervention, and am glad I don’t have to waste even more time harassing Uber’s “support” team, but I am still disheartened with how terribly Uber was (not) responding to these courier thefts before she came along. Zero accountability. They really need to do better.
Okay, your hopper has a lot of catch-up work and emails and research and Instagram recaps to do, so let’s dive in to this week’s news! But, before I sign off, I know many of us are struggling with grocery costs (and expensive eggs!) right now, and I just want to share that every few weeks, I place an order with Imperfect Foods (I like to shop local for produce and more in between deliveries, but Imperfect helps keep my costs down for some basics). They have organic pastured eggs for $6.99, and I recommend the huge bag of smoked salmon trim from Acme Smoked Fish (it’s such a deal for $10.99, and great on bagels). I also like to stock up on Dosa’s turmeric-banana lassi, and Heyday harissa lemon chickpeas ($4.49) when they have them on sale—I warm up half the can in a saucepan, crack in a couple eggs and make a quick shakshuka, serving it with feta, EVOO, and cilantro on top, and some naan on the side for the fastest deadline dinner evah! Use my code and we both save $35 on groceries! 🥂
Wishing you a fun Memorial Day weekend—I’ll be back in your inbox next Thursday since I’m going to enjoy the holiday and take the day off from writing (and you’re on the free plan).
XO
~Marcia
the chatterbox
The End of an Era: One Market Is Closing After 32 Years
Big changes are coming to the corner of Market and Steuart: after 32 years of providing quality Cal-American cuisine and hospitality, One Market has announced its upcoming closure on Wednesday June 11th. Restaurateur Michael Dellar, who opened the restaurant with chef Bradley Ogden back in 1993, is retiring (his 80th birthday is on the horizon)—I was hearing some talk about a hoped-for sale to the current management team, but that deal sadly fell through.
Chef-partner Mark Dommen, who has been there for 20 years, is one of our City’s most consistently excellent chefs (I will miss his matzo ball soup, spit-roasted prime rib on Fridays, and pastrami Reuben), and sommelier and wine director Tonya Pitts (15 years) always had some excellent bubbles to pour. I loved being able to swing by and listen to pianist Billy Philadelphia over a bite at the bar. The restaurant has weathered so many events over the years, from 9/11 to Covid, and has hosted countless famous guests (including presidents!), private events, and celebrations.
Thank you to the award-winning and longstanding team for all the memories (including former pastry chef/partner Patty Dellamonica-Bauler and chef/partner Adrian Hoffman)—a farewell letter from Dellar mentions servers like Josephine Prudhomme (27 years), Lisandro Santos (20 years), banquet server Samuel Sanchez (27 years), and line cook Pedro Corona (24 years)—that is a true family, and this closure will be a tough one. (They will be selling a variety of items after closing, including wine, tabletop appointments, art, furniture, fixtures, equipment, memorabilia, etc. Get on the mailing list by going to onemarket.com and clicking “Newsletter” at the bottom of the page.)
One Market will be offering lunch, dinner, all-day happy hour, and private events Monday through Friday until closing on Wednesday June 11th. It’s time for one last famous butterscotch pudding. Lunch parking is free for two hours in the One Market Plaza garage (as available), and there is valet for dinner (a rarity in this town). Thank you for all the hospitality all these years! One Market at Steuart.
Another Old-Timer in FiDi Is Closing After 35 Years: Orale Orale Is Saying Hasta Luego
A friend of a dear tablehopper reader let me know that a Financial District staple, the family-owned and -operated Orale Orale is closing soon. Brothers Carlos and Manuel Aguilar opened this traditional Mexican taqueria and restaurant back in 1989, and I remember going there for lunch during my advertising agency days when I was working on Spear Street in the mid-90s. Orale Orale is not only known and loved for their taqueria favorites, but they also serve a variety of enchiladas (with specials on Fridays), chile colorado, chimichangas, and other platos (I loved their tasty chile verde). You can sit down for huevos rancheros (served all day), or have a chile relleno combo plate and a margarita for lunch, or get a breakfast burrito to go on your way into the office.
I called and spoke with Stacy Aguilar, whose grandfather is Carlos Aguilar (her father is his son, Danny), and she said hearing about the closure of One Market was so similar to their story and timing since they have both been around for almost the same amount of time and in the same neighborhood. Their business was greatly impacted by Covid, and Danny decided it’s time to wrap it up and retire. She says the closure is bittersweet, and “how grateful we are for our customers—we love the community, Orale loves San Francisco!” They haven’t set an exact date for the closure, but it will be before July. They would love to see you before they close. Gracias for feeding us all these years! Open Mon–Fri 8am–3pm. 113 Sacramento St. at Drumm.
Two Longtime Businesses on Castro Street Are on the Brink of Eviction
Last week, I read this depressing article in the Bay Area Reporter that longtime businesses Castro Coffee Co. and Castro Nail Salon—which both flank The Castro Theatre at 429 Castro Street—will not have their leases renewed and are being evicted so theater manager Another Planet Entertainment can utilize their spaces to host the box office when the Castro Theatre reopens. The businesses are run by brothers Ken Khoury (who is 74, and has had Castro Coffee Co. since 1987, and always draws a lively community of customers out front), and Riyad Khoury (78, who opened Castro Nail Salon in 2004).
The BAR reports the brothers have reached out to the Nasser family (the Castro Theatre owners), APE, their District 8 supervisor and Board of Supervisors President Rafael Mandelman, Mayor Lurie, the Castro Merchants Association, and their customers to help save their businesses and potentially figure out relocation efforts; you can read more about the neighborhood’s challenging real estate situation in this SF Chronicle article. During a time when the Castro neighborhood is barely hanging on while the theater is closed for renovations, it’s so sad to me to imagine both of these businesses closing without finding some alternatives or a solution that all parties can agree to, especially with so many vacancies in the area. BIG UGH. 427 Castro St. and 431 Castro St.
Berkeley’s Rose Pizzeria Is Opening an SF Location in the Inner Richmond
I was hearing some exciting rumors that Berkeley’s acclaimed Rose Pizzeria was coming to San Francisco, and last week, I shared co-owners Gerad Gobel and Alexis Rorabaugh’s SMBX fundraiser on Instagram, which mentioned their impending second location. Holla! The SF Chronicle confirmed the new address will be in the Inner Richmond: Rose Pizzeria is opening their second location in the former Village Pizzeria at 1 Clement Street. It will be great to have their fire classic pep, spicy Caesar, and low-ABV cocktails here in SF; some potential additions mentioned include some different styles of pizza, housemade gelato, and a to-go window. Stand by for more details soon. 1 Clement St. at Arguello.
A First Look at the Menu for Regalito El Mil Amores, Opening Monday
A quick follow-up to last week’s news that Regalito El Mil Amores is opening on Monday May 26th at 4pm (from Andrea Becerra of the fantastic El Mil Amores on 21st Street in the Mission). Last June, I was first to report Becerra was opening a second business in the former Regalito Rosticeria, which her uncle Eduardo opened just off Valencia Street in 2006. Considering she just had a baby eight months ago, and now she’s opening a second restaurant two years after opening El Mil Amores, well, this powerhouse of a woman astounds me.
Becerra is expanding her repertoire by adding dinner service at this location (El Mil Amores just serves brunch and lunch). Her abuela’s recipes from Mexico City will continue to be featured (thanks to her co-chef Chucky, who has been with her since day one). New dishes include birria; chuletas (pork chops) en adobo; and a chile relleno de calabazas (roasted pasilla pepper filled with sautéed squash, onions, tomato, melted cheese, and sour cream), served with black beans. I am a huge fan of all their house salsas and sauces, which have that homemade touch and taste.
At El Mil Amores, there’s an abundant breakfast CDMX plate, and here, there’s a Molcajeta CDMX plate (arrachera, chicken, chorizo, pork chop, nopales, onion, and cheese in burnt abodo sauce, served on a stone bowl), while the DF Plate includes sopes with cecina meat, with beans, cream, cheese, and green sauce, accompanied with fried plantains, cream, and soup of the day.
Starters include chilindrinas, a street food snack of a vegetarian puff topped with potatoes and housemade Mexican sausage, queso fresco, crema, and salsa fresca. There are also salads (including the Ensalada El Cholo: mixed greens with skirt steak, tortilla chips, nopales, and beans), and new seafood dishes, like fish tacos.
Some of Becerra’s El Mil Amores lunch dishes will come over, like the costillas (pork ribs) en salsa roja o verde, or chile quemado (adobado sauce), and the enmoladas are made here with beef (they come with chicken at El Mil Amores). Some Regalito classics will live on, like the pollo Regalito (half roasted chicken in chile-garlic marinade served with sautéed greens and potatoes) and their famed carnitas. The menu is priced so affordably, especially knowing how much she loves to abundantly feed her guests (con mucho amor!).
Becerra is excited about the patio, and being able to serve meals outside on warm Mission days and balmy nights. Wine and beer will be available very soon. I hope to swing by to take some pictures for you later this week!
Open daily 11am–9pm. 3481 18th St. at Valencia.
A Modern Gastropub Opened in SoMa, Where You Can Play Augmented Reality Darts Over Espresso Martinis
Quick Bites of News
Here’s to 30 Years of Chile Lindo, Now an Official Legacy Business and Ready to Celebrate This Saturday!
Congrats to the Mission’s iconic empanada and Chilean bakery, Chile Lindo, on receiving its Legacy Business designation, just in time for its 30th birthday this weekend (during Carnaval, how perfect)! Founder Paula Tejeda has done so much to nurture her community and introduce people to many aspects of Chilean culture, one hand-kneaded empanada at a time. I remember back when she was “The Girl from Empanada,” selling her baked goods from a basket she’d carry around the Mission—if you attended the tablehopper renewal party at the Savoy Tivoli, she was the vibrant woman selling the raffle tickets! Just last year, I wrote this feature about her new location on 16th Street, Chile Lindo Kitchen Culture.
While Tejeda has had to navigate more than her fair share of difficulties and challenges over the years, this tenacious and resilient woman is ready to celebrate! Come by this Saturday May 24th at 7:30pm to raise a glass of Chilean wine—there will be local poets, musicians, and dancing…and Chile Lindo empanadas! The Consul General of Chile in San Francisco, Patricio Cabezas Logan, will attend, and here’s hoping Mayor Lurie can stop by. Please support this local business, from visiting her café for empanadas and Chilean sweets, to renting her space for any intimate events you may be hosting. 2943 16th St. at Capp.
A Brazilian-Style Steakhouse Is Coming to Polk Street
A fellow writer (and now new neighbor!) noticed a coming soon sign for Sabor Gaúcho outside the former Rouge at Broadway and Polk. The SF Business Times did some research on this Brazilian steakhouse chain that was founded by former leaders of Fogo de Chão’s European portfolio (with “more than a dozen locations across Europe”), and this will be its first restaurant/churrascaria in the U.S.
Additional details include: “The San Francisco location will offer 18 distinct cuts of meat, from picanha sirloin to lamb and poultry, carved tableside and cooked over an open flame in the traditional gaúcho style. A gourmet market table will offer more than 45 dishes and sides including ubiquitous Brazilian staples like pão de queijo (baked cheese balls), black beans and caramelized bananas.” 1500 Broadway at Polk.
Andytown Is Opening Its New Downtown Location
Dining Deals in SoMa and for Black Restaurant Week
I’m always down for a burger special, and Prospect in SoMa is offering a Schmitz Ranch beef patty, with melty Wagon Wheel cheese, house spread, rosso bruno tomatoes, pickles, lettuce, and a side of golden fries for $27 during happy hour (4pm–6pm). (Insider tip: a secret off-menu burger is also in the works — stay tuned.) 300 Spear St. at Folsom.
Underway now (May 16th–25th) is the tenth anniversary of Black Restaurant Week, highlighting Black-owned food businesses across the Bay and beyond. Discover Black-owned restaurants food trucks, sweets, and more across San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento, and additional surrounding metro areas. Gumbo Social is running a special prix-fixe menu: lunch: $15/person (11am–5pm), select one (1) each small gumbo, half po’boy. Dinner: $30/person (5pm–8pm): select one (1) each reg. gumbo, po’boy, dessert or small side. 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.
Fridays Are for Challah Sandwiches from Braid Bakery
A couple Fridays ago, my fellow indie publisher homie Tamara Palmer of California Eating invited me to check out some treats she pre-ordered from Braid Bakery for lunch. From her recent piece: “Braid Bakery is a babka-focused home bakery near Ocean Beach in San Francisco’s Sunset District that offers pickup three days a week and also stocks a case of babka rolls at nearby Other Avenues co-op market three days a week. Private catering was just added as a new service.”
