what’s cookin’
Howdy, dear readers. Thanks for waiting for me, it has been a WEEK. Whew. I hoped to wrap this up and send this beast out yesterday, but I needed to scoot over to Nopa’s 20th anniversary blowout last night. There’s much to say about that joyous celebration of their beautiful community (it felt like an industry wedding reception); I’d like to share more thoughts later. But for now, we love you, Nopa! Cheers to 20!
Happy Pride Month! This time of year always gets me revved up to be in community and go dancing, and let’s just say there are some things I know we all need to shake off together. This week’s column was powered by CarrieOnDisco’s Flaggin’ in the Park mix (especially Part Two)—it has some chuggers that will get you into the Pride party spirit real quick. This Saturday, I’m fired up to kick things off with CarrieOnDisco and Horse Meat Disco (with DJ M3) playing a sold-out party at The Castro Theatre. It’ll be cool to experience a Pride dance party for the first time in the historic space.
It’s also great that Frameline (the longest-running LGBTQ+ film exhibition event in the world) was able to return to The Castro Theatre in time for their 50th anniversary (since 1976)! Check out the calendar for screenings (June 17th–27th).
This past weekend, I was craving the homey Indonesian cooking and warm hospitality from Joe Sutikno-Sharp and his husband, Chris Sharp, at the easygoing Rasa Rasa Kitchen in the Mission. I wrote about this heartfelt corner restaurant in honor of Pride last year, and it was such a pleasure to return to their signature beef rendang, restorative soto Kediri, and balado/sambal eggplant, while trying their tasty fried pompano fish for the first time (with a trio of their sambals that mean business). I was touched when Joe sent over a bowl of his spicy staff meal for me to try: lodeh, a slow-cooked vegetable stew of green beans and eggplant topped with baby anchovies. Yup, he really feeds you with his big heart—get some friends together and go feast, and you’ll walk out of there feeling nourished in many ways.
I have to front-load a bunch of Pride festivities to early in the month since I’m going to be attending a few World Cup matches with my Dad and sister in the second half of June. Allez allez! We’re bouncing down to LA for Switzerland vs. Bosnia and Herzegovina, and then we head back up for Turkey vs. Paraguay at Levi’s Stadium, and then we’re off to Seattle for Bosnia and Herzegovina vs. Qatar. It’s going to be a blast—our Dad is in full Carmen form when it’s World Cup (here’s another pic of him when we went to World Cup in Russia in 2018). The timing of these matches couldn’t be better with Father’s Day coming up. Wait until you see the custom T-shirts I had made for him.
One last thing before we dive into the news: I know we’re finally free from the onslaught of midterm election mailers in our mailbox, but now we need to put our attention on this important call to action from Foodwise: “The Market Match program, which doubles the purchasing power of CalFresh EBT benefits at farmers markets across California, is under threat. Funding for Market Match was not included in the Governor’s proposed 2026-27 state budget. Without funding, this vital program could disappear—and with it, the fresh, local food access that so many families in our community depend on. Amid sweeping federal cuts to SNAP, Market Match is needed more than ever.
“Market Match is a triple win: Every time a Market Match dollar is spent at a farmers market, it contributes to a local farmer’s livelihood, nourishes a family in need, and supports our regional economies. Statewide, Market Match represented $25 million in fresh, healthy food for CalFresh shoppers and income for small farms last year alone.
The deadline for California’s legislature to finalize the budget is June 15, which means the next couple of weeks are critical. Here’s how you can help. It takes just a few minutes!
- WRITE to Governor Newsom and Budget Leaders (less than 1 minute)
- CALL Governor Newsom and Budget Leaders (high impact! and online tool makes it easy for you)
- POST on social media and SHARE this email with friends, family, and anyone who cares about local farms, healthy communities, and economic equity
Thank you for standing up for Market Match, for our farmers, and for every family that deserves access to fresh, nutritious food.”
Thanks for showing up in all the ways you do.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Subscriber Exclusive: A First Look at Bar Malone’s, a New SoMa Neighborhood Bar from Industry Pros
Softly open now in the former District on Townsend in SoMa (which closed in 2025, after a respectable 18-year run) is Bar Malone’s. This stylish cocktail bar was designed to serve the neighborhood with high hospitality from local restaurant and bar industry veterans: longtime friends and business partners Gabriel Freiberg and Eric Passetti (Natoma Cabana and Yerba Buena Bar).
Soft-opening hours are Tue–Sat 3pm–10pm, extending soon until midnight Thu–Sat. Bar bites will be available 3pm–5pm, and eventually after 10pm. Sunday brunch and dinner will be coming in July. Follow @BarMalones for updates. 216 Townsend St.
Noodle in a Haystack Sadly Closes Its Doors on Geary, But Will Open a New Door at Thrive City: Mazé by Noodle in a Haystack
Friends and regulars of the almost-impossible-to-book Noodle in a Haystack have been coming into the Outer Richmond restaurant to say farewell to the ramen-centered tasting menu and highly personal hospitality from husband-and-wife owners Clint and Yoko Tan as they wrap up their past three-plus years in their hard-won location. They were previously hosting a pop-up out of their Daly City home—I wrote about the many challenges of their restaurant opening at 4601 Geary Boulevard for Nob Hill Gazette in 2022.
I reached out a couple weeks ago to find out why they were closing, which felt a bit unexpected in light of the amazing accolades they have been receiving from The New York Times, Bon Appétit, Michelin, and more. Clint shared they couldn’t maintain the overextended pace they’ve been holding for the past 10 years, and “finally got some opportunities we couldn’t turn down.” He mentioned they were “planning 1 or 2 or maybe 3 new restaurants and we just needed to step away so we can focus on the new projects.”
I couldn’t get any more info from him, and now, the first of those projects has just been revealed: Mazé by Noodle in a Haystack will be opening in Thrive City late this year. They’re launching this modern ramen concept in partnership with Vine Hospitality and CEO Alistair Levine (Left Bank, Petite Left Bank, LB Steak, and Meso Modern Mediterranean).
The press release states: “Mazé is derived from the Japanese word meaning “to mix” or “to blend,” paired with Men, meaning “noodle.” Together, the name refers to a style of ramen focused on mixing noodles with sauces, oils, toppings, and textures before enjoyment.”
Over the past decade, the couple has been obsessively developing and finessing recipes showcasing various styles of ramen, crafting their own style of modern ramen that blends Japanese inspiration and Californian influences, from their iconic yuzu shio ramen (versions 1.0, 2.0, and 3.0!), to duck shoyu, to tsukemen, to XO tori paitan, to A5 wagyu abura soba, plus their riffs on dry-style (brothless) mazemen, which is what they’ll be highlighting in this fast-casual location (their spicy maze tan tan men is incredible). The mazemen will be served alongside small plates (here’s hoping for their deviled eggs) and desserts.
Stand by for more details as the project gets closer to opening. Best wishes to Clint and Yoko on this new chapter of their noodle journey.
News Bites: Piedays, Goop Kitchen, New Omakase Takeout Boxes, Monday Dinners
Cawfee Tawk: New Openings, What’s Coming Soon, and an Anniversary
Over in Oakland: this week is the third anniversary of The Caffè by Mr. Espresso, and, of course, they’ve been featuring all kinds of new drink collaborations with local chefs and makers, plus sweet treats and pastry pop-ups to pair with them, including a gelato flight this weekend with Patrizia Pasqualetti. 1120 Broadway, Oakland.
Closures Include a Couple Neighborhood Old-Timers
I was surprised and sad to learn that OG sushi mainstay, Restaurant Eiji in the Castro, has closed after 20 years. Chef-owner Eiji Onoda has retired, and many regulars will miss the ikebana arrangements by his wife, Hidemi. Known for their housemade oboro tofu (with a fun presentation of toppings) and famed strawberry mochi for dessert, I always thought Eiji had some of the best aji (Spanish mackerel) and kohada when it was in season. It was such a homey and humble little spot that delivered quality without pretense—they hosted so many first dates! Best wishes to the couple on their next chapter. (At least Sam Smith was able to check it out right before it closed at the end of March.) 317 Sanchez St.
Another neighborhood mainstay has closed after 25 years: Lupa Trattoria in Noe Valley. Roman chef-owner Stefano Coppola served hearty portions of lasagna and housemade pappardelle with lamb at neighborhood-friendly prices. There is already a taker for the space: an ABC license transfer lists Michael Ho of Perilla, who has a location of his fast-casual Vietnamese concept in the Lower Haight, serving all kinds of proteins (like five-spice chicken) with garlic noodles and imperial rolls. (The original Perilla is on Irving Street, but lists a different owner.) 4109 24th St.
Eater SF reported Ayesha Curry and Michael Mina’s International Smoke in the Millennium Tower has closed. After renovating the space, The Mina Group will be opening Neighborhood Test Kitchen in its place in the fall, hosting rotating chefs and concepts every four to six months. 301 Mission St.
Alix Wall reports in the J. Weekly that Super Mensch in the Marina closed this past weekend after eight months. Chef-partner Adam Rosenblum told J.: “We thought we had the answers to put a full-service restaurant into a 500-square-foot space with no hood and tried everything we know how to make it work. But at the end of the day, we weren’t able to accomplish it to meet our standards.” People will still be able to order off the Super Mensch menu for private events in the space or catering. 2336 Chestnut St.
the socialite
Celebrate and Explore Over 25 Black-Owned Businesses at Juneteenth on the Waterfront This Sunday
This Sunday June 7th is the sixth annual Pop-Ups on the Plaza: Juneteenth on the Waterfront at the Ferry Plaza in front of the San Francisco Ferry Building (9am–2pm). This year’s event will take place on a Sunday to accommodate more vendors and activities than ever before.
This free community event will celebrate with 25+ local and Black-owned, food-and-craft businesses, such as Gumbo Social, The Final Sauce, A Girl Named Pinky, Lil Alijo’s, and more (reading through the lineup is going to give you some serious hunger pangs). There’s also a craft market featuring Black designers from the Fillmore-based In The Black marketplace, free cooking demos with chefs Nelson German and Andréa Lawson Gray (from Caribbean Cocktails:Drinks and Bites from the Afro-Latino Diaspora), and Tatiana Thomas, plus family activities, live music, and more.
Juneteenth on the Waterfront is part of a month of festivities in San Francisco surrounding Juneteenth National Independence Day (June 19th), including celebrations in the Fillmore (June 14th), Bayview (June 21st), and the Juneteenth Parade (June 20th).
Pride in SF Is Going to Have You Busy All Month
OK, gang, Pride month is here, and the City is poppin’ with events, special menus, fundraisers, marches, vigils, and more, leading up to the 56th Annual San Francisco Pride Parade on Sunday June 28th, 2026. We protest and we party, we protect and we celebrate. Be sure to pack your wallet with cash money all month—tip the queens and your bartenders, honey.
Already underway this week is the return of the SF Queer Art & Music Festival, featuring nightly events like comedy, drag, DJ Stanley Frank at Rye, cocktails at Propagation, and Tokimonsta at Jones! Through June 7th.
Last night was the First Thursday art walk in the TenderNob, and Rosebud Gallery is featuring their third annual Affordable Pride Show, with work from 100 queer artists, and all artwork is priced $399 and under. The exhibition is up through June 26th. 839 Larkin St.
Enjoy some color therapy all Pride month at Nightbird, where chef Kim Alter is showcasing a color of the rainbow in each course of her June tasting menu, like pink rhubarb with elderflower, and red raspberry and beets with squab. A portion of the menu’s proceeds will be donated to The Trevor Project, the leading suicide prevention and crisis intervention nonprofit organization for LGBTQ+ young people.
Pictured above is one of chef Kim’s reflection courses from her ‘Sustainably Spring’ menu—she uses local ingredients from the previous course in the subsequent course to reduce waste. The tart shell is made with juice from carrot trimmings, and filled with chopped chamomile-poached lobster and fava beans, garnished with sliced apricot to reflect the smoked apricot purée from the prior course.
There are only a few tickets left for the Big Gay Dumpling Party at 18 Reasons with chef Henry Hsu this Saturday June 6th (6pm–10pm). You’ll learn how to make rainbow dumplings with a variety of fillings from scratch, and you get to feast on the fruits of your labor at the end. And on Saturday June 20th, there are a few spots left for the Friends and Family Pride Pop Up with chef Gaby Maeda (formerly State Bird Provisions) and Blake Cole, with bites (Les Eggs will be there!), drinks, dishes, and desserts.
Next Saturday June 13th, Starbelly in the Castro will host its Bacon & Leggs Drag Brunch, featuring performances hosted by Bobby Friday, and they’re pouring a limited-time Aperol Spritz: Pride Edition with edible glitter (it should look fabulous in your teeth). Proceeds will support local LGBTQ+ nonprofit Queer LifeSpace. Reserve here.
This June, probably the busiest queen I can think of is Juanita MORE!, who’s hosting and attending MORE! events than most people go to in a year. A tireless philanthropist, Miss MORE! has helped raise over $1.5 million for local San Francisco charities, and this year, the beneficiary of her annual Pride party and numerous Pride events is the GLBT Historical Society. Founded in 1985, the GLBT Historical Society is a global leader in LGBTQ+ public history, often called the “queer Smithsonian.” The Society collects, preserves, exhibits, and makes accessible to the public materials and knowledge to support and promote understanding of LGBTQ+ history, culture, and arts in all their diversity.
Have you ever been to the GLBT Historical Society Museum in the Castro? It’s full of incredible ephemera, including a piece of one of the two original rainbow flags by Gilbert Baker with eight stripes, first raised on June 25th, 1978, in United Nations Plaza at the San Francisco Gay Freedom Day Parade. Go visit.
Starting this week, Miss MORE! launched the return of her FLOOR21 happy hours (which she first hosted 10 years ago!) at Starlite at the Beacon Grand Hotel. Every Thursday in June, you can enjoy the gorgeous view, performances and music from top SF talent (including Dulce De Leche, Mary Vice, Miss Rahni, Sir Joq), and specialty cocktails by Scott Baird and guest queer bartenders. A portion of the proceeds from the series and 25 percent of proceeds from every Juanita MORE! cocktail sold (a spin on a blackberry smash) will benefit the GLBT Historical Society, her partner in the monthlong series.
Every Thursday in June, 5pm–7pm (reserve your spot here). Limited walk-in availability. No cover. All-vinyl DJs will take over and keep things going until 11pm. 450 Powell St, 21st floor.
Then, on Sunday June 21st, MORE! is hosting a Pride kickoff/Sunday’s a Drag brunch and dance party (with DJs David Harness and Cupcake), with a special menu/culinary pop-up by chef Tucker Ricchio, Bay Area native, winner of Season 2 of Next Level Chef, and currently part of the team at two-Michelin-starred Acquerello. The menu includes a deviled egg flight, a spin on fried chicken and waffles, pork belly bites, caviar service, and MORE! 12pm–4pm. Table reservations; GA/standing reservations.
The annual Stories from Home collaboration of Juanita MORE! at MERKADO will be Wednesday June 17th, coming together to celebrate Pride and support the GLBT Historical Society. Enjoy a family dinner with the community, featuring Juanita’s menu items: the MOREburger, which combines her mother’s poblano chile relleno and love of a late-night burger, and her dreamy tres leches cake, plus DJ Miguelitooo, performances by Xochitl and Juannina Million, cocktails, and cackles! It’s a good time. Reserve here. 130 Townsend St.
And then there’s Miss MORE!’s annual Pride Party, which she has been hosting at 620 Jones since 2012. It’s always such a blowout, packed with performances, great DJs, décor, and is my favorite reunion of SF party people. It sells out, so get your advance tickets (while they last) at the treasured indie shop locations listed here ($60 cash). Tickets will be available at the door on the day of the event. 12pm–7pm.
Something new this year: activist Alex U. Inn and Juanita MORE! announced that the People’s March & Rally, in partnership with Indivisible San Francisco, San Francisco Dyke March, SF Dykes on Bikes® WMC, and SF Pride, will host the Trans Ally Rally, where everyone will march and rally on Pride Saturday (June 27th) to stand up for and celebrate the trans community. It starts at Embarcadero Plaza (Market St. and Steuart) at 10am, marching at 10:30am, and ending at Civic Center at the People’s March Stage for a rally, with live music and performances, all proudly supported by The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence. (12pm–5pm)
I’ll be sharing more Pride events, special dishes and drinks, and ways to support and show up for the community in the coming weeks!
the sugar mama
You Could Be Happy: Enter to Win Guest List Action to See Paul Oakenfold and The Crystal Method at The Regency Ballroom This Saturday!
Is it 1995? Nope, it’s 2026, and Paul Oakenfold and The Crystal Method are stopping by and going off at The Regency Ballroom in San Francisco for their coast-to-coast United Champions Tour (now with Liquid Todd) this Saturday June 6th.
I have one pair of tickets to give away to the show (doors at 7pm, show at 8pm, 18+).
