what’s cookin’
Howdy, friends. I’m trying to get this column back on its regular schedule of going out earlier in the week, wish me luck. Last night, I was invited to an industry screening of “Tony” before its theatrical release this Friday August 5th (thank you, Liam Mayclem, for the invite, and OpenTable for hosting). I know, it’s a daunting concept to even think of making a film about the monolithic Anthony Bourdain, but director Matt Johnson (and actor Dominic Sessa from “The Holdovers”)...
More icons: I’m so pleased to see Jeanette Etheredge get her flowers in a helluva colorful NYT obituary full of stories and quotes and keen observations—I was a little concerned her passing was going to remain a local story, but I’m glad the indelible mark she left on our city and the importance of her rare kind of hospitality and unique life finally got picked up and celebrated in the Old Gray Lady.
Since I hit pause on reporting on a lot of news while I was in Tahoe, I have a bunch of stories and catch-up links and blurbs for you today. Over 5,200 words tonight, people. Whew. It’s kind of wild to see how much is happening right now—so many upcoming openings and cafés and bakeries, buckle up. Thanks to summer intern Francesca Gasparini for helping me wrangle all these updates!
Let’s jump in.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
An Update on Tommaso’s (Including Upcoming Suppers to Help Support the Restaurant)
After writing about the tough times over at Tommaso’s in North Beach a couple weeks ago, I followed up with owner Mo Donegan for an update on how things are going. First, she wanted to say thanks to so many of you for all the generosity you showed in your donations to the 91-year-old restaurant’s GoFundMe (I told her I saw a bunch of subscriber names in the list of donations—you’re the best).
She mentioned a couple generous angels swooped in to loan her the money to cover her back rent and avoid eviction (as a loan, not a gift, as reported by the SF Chronicle, which caused the GoFundMe donations to slow down). So, if you feel like kicking in some dough to help her pay back the loans and get her head above water, that would be amazing. Keep it flowin’.
Donegan said business has been on the upswing since the announcement that the iconic restaurant was struggling, so she appreciates everyone showing up, but, she has been short-staffed, so she wants to thank everyone for their patience as she makes some new hires (and her host returns from vacation).
I reached out holding a tablehopper supper later this fall, so stand by on that, but in the meantime, her good friend Barbie is hosting two dinners—The Tommaso’s Family Table—to help raise funds on Tuesday August 11th and 18th, with seatings available at 5:30pm and 8pm. The supper will include an antipasto plate of Italian cured meats, marinated vegetables, and olives, as well as a Caesar salad and garlic bread. The family-style entrées will include their lasagna, eggplant Parmigiana, chicken piccata, and a selection of Tommaso’s classic, wood-fired pizzas, with mini chocolate cannoli for dessert. Pricing is $200 per head, all-inclusive, with wine! (If you want to donate wine for the event, or BYOB, you can do that.) Contact Tommasospartyreso@gmail.com with your preferred day, time (Tuesday August 11th or 18th, with seatings at 5:30pm and 8pm), and group size, and if you have any questions. 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.
Two More Calls for Support, from Gumbo Social and Reem’s Mission
In addition to our dear Tommaso’s, there are a couple other SF restaurants that could use our support. Chef-owner Dontaye Ball of Gumbo Social has temporarily closed his three-year-old Bayview restaurant for six weeks (until August 17th) so he could upgrade equipment (including installing a new commercial oven), strengthen operations, allow the team to rest, and do some R&D for the next chapter.
Ball launched a GoFundMe to fund a pilot evening takeout window so they can offer Bayview a dinner option from 6pm–10pm. Funds will go toward installing a service door, security cameras, and the staffing needed to run it safely.
Café Mélange, Gumbo Social’s sister restaurant in Civic Center, will remain open and serves gumbo if you need a fix.
More ways to support: book Gumbo Social for catering! Visit their booth at Outside Lands (they’ll be serving their Louisiana-style chicken and sausage gumbo, vegan gumbo, fried fish filet sandwiches, Cajun fries, and strawberry-basil lemonade). And, get a ticket to Gumbo Social’s 6th Annual All-You-Can-Eat Seafood Boil on Sunday August 23rd to celebrate Mr. Gumbo’s birthday. Your ticket ($49.99) includes unlimited servings of shrimp, smoked sausage, baby potatoes, sweet corn, and all the buttery Old Bay and Cajun goodness you can handle from 12pm–2pm (or until they sell out). 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.
And this is such a bummer: after suffering significant damage from a car crashing into the storefront of Reem’s Mission in a hit-and-run on the night of June 10th, the team has made the challenging decision to close for two months, starting this past Sunday August 2nd. In a recent post, they share: “Initial estimates put the cost of repairs at almost $200,000 and, because foundational damage may have been done to the building, the work may require pulling permits from the city, which could add up to six weeks to the timeline. We hope insurance will cover costs, but we have yet to hear a definitive response regarding what they will cover.
“We hoped we could keep some of our team working and make ends meet by continuing to offer takeout, delivery, and catering while we get the repairs done, but it’s simply not enough. In an industry with skyrocketing costs and razor-thin margins, we simply do not have the cash reserves to float us during this time.” If you’re able to support, please donate to their GoFundMe. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St.
Reem’s will also be at Outside Lands, teaming up with the American Lamb Board to bring back their La Gringa lamb quesabirria wrap, as well as serving Arab party fries and chocolate chip cookies. They’re also collaborating with Lion Dance Cafe on a vegan sambal tomat man’oushe. And, you can go visit the new Reem’s Jack London Square, a worker-owned café and flagship bakery in Oakland (at 85 Webster Street).
Let’s Get Baked: So Many New Bakeries Are Coming, Including a New Location of Maison Nico
Tartine is going to open a fourth location in San Francisco, a bakery in a former CVS at California and Sansome. The SF Chronicle reports the new Financial District location will actually be serving more than pastries and coffee, bringing breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s a significant buildout, so stand by for timing in 2027. 351 California St. at Sansome.
Angelica Nulud and Paul Faraon of Filipino pastry popup La Kalidád have a location for their café-bakery: 680 A 2nd Street in South Beach (previously Birdbox). They plan to open in the fall, in time for holiday pie orders. 680 A 2nd St. at Townsend. [Via SF Chronicle]
Something to diminish some of the sads over Shuggie’s closing is the news of who’s going in: Florecita Panaderia, the Mexican American bakery from owners Ximena and Jared Williams. They’re vacating their current Mission location, and plan to start serving their California-style conchas (and more) in mid-September. The SF Standard mentions they’re going to partner with a Bay Area coffee brand to handle coffee service in the second dining room, and will invite chefs to pop up and offer savory items as well. Stand by for more. 3349 23rd St. at Bartlett.
New Pastries Coming to Polk as Saturbake Goes Permanent
By Francesca Gasparini
Coming this fall is Lorella, a new bakery concept from chef-owner Melissa Loar and chef-partner Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia. What started as Saturbake, a recurring pop-up at Octavia, has now gained permanent footing and plans to deliver seasonal pastries, fresh loaves, elevated desserts, and coffee to Russian Hill.
Cawfee Tawk: Exciting New Openings, Including SF’s First Café Highlighting Speciality Coffee from India
When I returned from Tahoe a couple weekends back, I swung by the upcoming Le Mil’s Coffee, which was getting close to soft opening in the space under Funky Door Yoga on Polk Street. I had reached out a few weeks ago for more info, but hadn’t heard back, so I was lucky with my in-person visit timing and got to meet one of the owners, Milana Ram (her husband and co-owner is Himanshu Bhaisare).
The airy space was looking great, with Modbar espresso machines set in a custom bar top with resin poured to look like the rainbow on their branding, comfortable chairs that will invite you to linger (plus a mezzanine with even more seating), and an eye-catching ceiling installation made of baskets. Ram was busy meeting with her plant consultant, but she let me buy a bag of their Chikka espresso blend with shade-grown, hand-picked, and sun-dried Arabica and Robusta beans sourced from her fifth-generation family farm in Navilumane Estate in Chikmagalur (in Karnataka in southwestern India). Le Mil roasts their coffee in small batches every two weeks in Berkeley (the Chikka was smooth, creamy, and balanced, with an extra boost of caffeine—I’ll take it!).
There is much more to Le Mil’s story, which you can read in these features in the SF Chronicle and SFGATE, and I look forward to returning to the café very soon to try some of their specialty coffee drinks. They’re having their soft opening right now, and the grand opening is Saturday August 15th, on India’s Independence Day. Here’s to San Francisco’s first café dedicated to specialty coffee from India! Keep track of their updates and hours here. 1330 Polk St. at Austin (near Pine).
Fuel Up for Your Next Adventure at Double Black
By Francesca Gasparini
Don’t Tell Your Cardiologist! Tacos El Patrón Is Coming to the Fillmore District
By Francesca Gasparini
If you like Tijuana-style quesabirria, then you likely know and love Tacos El Patrón. Lucky for me, my first-ever quesabirria experience was there, and ever since, the bar has been set exceptionally high. So, I know I’m not the only one who is thrilled with the news (via SF Business Times) that the Bay Area taquería is opening its fourth location on Fillmore Street in the former home of Scott’s Chowder House, making this the largest Tacos El Patrón location yet.
Tacos El Patrón gained stardom thanks to its standout quesabirria: tacos grilled to perfection with crispy, cheese-latticed edges, stuffed with slow-braised, shredded beef, and served with a rich, deeply flavorful consomé for dipping. Other menu items—like its grilled meat tacos and burritos—showcase owner Alberto Pineda and his wife Mariana Reza’s commitment to serving authentic Mexican flavors using family recipes and high-quality ingredients.
This new location should be opening in coming weeks, and will be welcoming back tacos de guisado: traditional homestyle Mexican stews (like chile verde and tinga de pollo), a specialty that was once the concept of their past brick-and-mortar, Los Guisados Del Patrón on S. Van Ness Avenue. 1325 Fillmore St. at Eddy.
Even More Expansions Around Town
Better Late Than Never: Jollibee Finally Opened Their Downtown Location
East Bay Updates: Bring on the Hoagies and Injera and More
Enssaro just relocated into its new space in Rockridge after 20 years in Oakland’s Adams Point neighborhood. The family-run Ethiopian restaurant bought a permanent home on College Avenue to pass down to future generations. The mother-daughter-son Tamirue family team enlisted Ethiopian designer Kalu Gebreyohannes-Royster of Liyu Designs to create a space that feels “unmistakably Ethiopian.” The owners ensure that the new location preserves everything longtime patrons love about the restaurant, as well as adding a redesigned bar and cocktail program that you can enjoy on the inviting open-air patio. Operating hours are Mon–Fri 5pm–10pm and Sat–Sun 11am–10pm. 5897 College Ave. at Chabot, Oakland. -FG
While scrolling through Facebook last week, I noticed my friend Mo Hodges (previously Benjamin Cooper) announced a new project: Hoagie’s World of Hoagies coming to Berkeley. Suh-weet! The Philly native will be serving Italian hoagies, cheesesteaks, and roast pork with broccoli rabe and provolone, all on Amoroso’s rolls. You can read about it in this post on Berkeley Eats. The late August opening can’t come soon enough. 2618 Telegraph Ave. at Carleton, Berkeley.
Congrats to chef-owner Geoff Davis of Burdell, who will be opening his wood-fired, steak-centric concept, Uncles, in 2027 in the Wood Tavern location (which is closing after 20 years at the end of this year). The style will be more approachable instead of special-occasion steak, with a creative and seasonal spin on classic steakhouse sides and sauces; Uncles will also be open for lunch, dinner, and brunch. You can read more in this piece in Food & Wine and the SF Chronicle. 6317 College Ave. at 63rd St., Oakland.
the sponsor
Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!
A couple weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram.
How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it.
One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!
Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!
And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)
Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅
the socialite
Outside Lands Is This Weekend—Whatcha Gonna Eat?
It’s already so unbelievable that August is here, and it’s even more bonkers that Outside Lands is this weekend (August 7th–9th). I’m sad to sit this year out, but such is life. OSL food curator Tanya Kollar has done another bang-up job with the Taste of the Bay Area food lineup, so I thought I’d point out a few bites that would be top of my list if I was going.
I’ve already mentioned Gumbo Social and Reem’s (with Lion Dance Cafe) above, and did you see that Caché is serving ham and cheese galettes (made with buckwheat)? New to the lineup: Mi Comedor (a La Cocina entrepreneur) will have pineapple al pastor chicken wings; Meski is making Dominican braised chicken sambusas...
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