what’s cookin’
Hi, friends. How are you doing? I hope the sunny weather is giving you a lift. Over the past week, I definitely needed to dial up the beauty and community. On Saturday, it was such a pleasure to spend hours at the table with my culinary fairy godmother, Roberta Klugman, at our annual Champagne luncheon—what a banquet of flavors (Birdie sets an abundant table) and good conversation.
Lately, I’ve been splurging on a nice bouquet of flowers at the beginning of the week. A couple Sundays ago, I spotted the most vibrant anemones at Bi-Rite Market (you can see why I just had to get them—they made me happy like a Marimekko print does), and this week, I picked up some elegant hyacinths. Treat yo’self! Buy the special ones. (I’m so glad Fortuna doesn’t eat my fleurs.)
The start of Dungeness crab season is always a fun SF moment—I have some favorite crab 🦀 dish recommendations for you awesome supporting subscribers in today’s column. (With thanks to all of you new and renewed subscribers who came on board last week—I so appreciate your support!)
The weather is beyond stunning this week—try to get out for a spring stroll. Where did you go this past weekend? My parents and I had a lovely time walking around the Palace of Fine Arts on Sunday, and I read the first Magnolia campbellii have just started to flower off the Great Meadow and in the Camellia Garden in Golden Gate Park. But don’t stress, you have time: “peak bloom is generally in February and late bloomers wrap up this special season in March.”
I’m also trying to get more rest (we are all so tired), and mentally resetting with yoga is really helping me move stress off and stagnant energy out. I used to do yoga for years, so it feels good to be back in practice. For the past three months, I’ve been using ClassPass so I could check out all the nearby yoga and pilates studios in my new neighborhood and find my preferred spots and teachers. It has been an effective way to ensure I attend a couple classes every week, especially during all that rainy and cold weather.
If you want to try to integrate more movement and maybe, finally, take that boxing class you’ve always wondered about, or book that yoga class on the Labyrinth at Grace Cathedral (it’s on my list!), you can use my link for a free month on ClassPass (which will give me a bonus if you eventually sign up, so, thanks). There are even online classes if you can’t make it in person, and you can apply unused credits to massage, spa treatments, and more. Insider tip:
Over the weekend, it was so bittersweet to see the outpouring of images and stories and photographs and memories in honor of the Grateful Dead’s (and SF’s) beloved Bobby Weir, whose death at 78 was announced by his family on Saturday (he was diagnosed with cancer last July, ugh). I was so moved by this poem-homage from Patti Smith, and it’s truly wonderful to read the comments (for once) on this obituary in the SF Chronicle—you gotta love stories of seeing the Dead in 1970 at Fillmore West for $2. Bless up! Thank you, Bobby, for putting the Weir in SF’s glorious weird! Fare you well.
You also don’t want to miss reading this touching obituary for the ever-charming and dynamic Graziano Cerchiai of Bimbo’s 365 Club—what a life, what a force, what fabulous SF stories. Raising our glass to his 95 years! I have a swell archivist postcard today to honor his memory.
Speaking of good ole SF:
I’m always looking at empty iconic buildings around town and wondering if and when something will be opening in those spaces, and I know many of you do as well since you send me emails asking the same thing! Take a look at this piece in SFGATE for updates on Julius’ Castle, Louis’ Restaurant, and more.
A quick reminder for my fellow freelance/self-employed types: tax quarterlies are due now/January 15th! Eeeeee, the worst way to start the year, I know. (Along with my new insanely expensive healthcare premium, I am aghast.)
Monday is Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day, so I’m going to enjoy the holiday weekend—I won’t be back in your inbox until midweek. Don’t miss me too much!
Take good care, and smell the flowers,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Feeling SO CRABBY—Where to Enjoy Special Dishes That Celebrate Local Dungeness Season
Yeah, I’m pretty mad at the world right now, but it’s also local Dungeness crab season, so I’m hella crabby! And boy, there are some big ones coming out of the water right now—check out the amazing footage by Nopa of Two x Sea unloading the first crabs of the season!
Oakland’s Tacos Oscar Is Now Serving Their Taco Sorcery in SF
Turtle Tower’s New Cow Hollow Location Is Opening for Dine-In Service, While Super Duper Expands
Last November, I wrote about the second location of Turtle Tower coming to the former Ricco Mediterranean restaurant space in the Marina/Cow Hollow, and it ends up they’ve already been offering takeout and delivery service (nightly 5pm–9pm; here’s the menu).
If you want to sit down for your bowl of phở, this Saturday January 17th is the soft opening for dine-in service. Hours to start will be 5pm–9pm; they’ll add hours as they staff up. Their full liquor license is forthcoming as well. Congrats to the Pham family on the continual comeback! 3145 Fillmore St. at Greenwich, 415-298-0897.
Anniversary Specials and Deals
Quick Notes on a Delivery from the New Goop Kitchen SF
After the many indulgences of the holidays (so much panettone over here), I know some of us are trying to reset with some clean cookin’. (Sometimes, LOL.) Last month, I wrote about the SF launch of Gwyneth Paltrow’s delivery-first concept, goop kitchen, and I wanted to circle around with an update since I was sent a few dishes to try.
I will absolutely order the fresh and bountiful Thai crispy rice crunch salad ($16.95) again—I would have requested it with chicken, so I was happily surprised by how flavorful the BBQ tofu was that they sent instead. (Pssst: I’d add extra dressing so I could have more of the tasty, bright, miso-honey vinaigrette around for another salad, it was so good.) I want that salad again right meow!
There’s a New Restaurant on Donner Summit With Some True SF Culinary Talent Behind It
Tough Closures Continue, Including Two SF Classics
Drat, I was hoping to head back to the heartfelt AyDea in the Outer Richmond for another delicious brunch, but, sadly, owners Chris Dumesnil and his wife, Liliya, have closed their Tatar restaurant/café. Their original Bryant Street location in SoMa was the first Tatar restaurant in the U.S., but it remained closed while they focused on getting this newer Geary café open and running over this past year. According to their Instagram post, the Geary location can be booked for private events. AyDea will still be available for catering and special orders, and they’re participating in SF’s Slavic Festival January 31st–February 1st. 5801 Geary Blvd. at 22nd Ave.
I received word from owner Michael Rodriguez of Cadillac Bar & Grill that he has closed the nostalgic Mexican restaurant permanently, after a comeback reopening in Market Square (“the Twitter building”) in 2015. The original Cadillac Bar & Grill opened in SoMa in 1982 and was a total fiesta hotspot, fueled by its namesake and potent Margarita, but it had to close in 1999 to make room for Moscone Center South. Rodriguez says in his email: “Between the two locations, we had about 30 years total. It was a good run, but we could never get it to recuperate after Covid.” Gracias for all the blurry memories! 44 9th St. at Market.
Eater SF reports the longtime Hunan restaurant Brandy Ho’s has closed after 45 years in business, bummer. 217 Columbus Ave. 🌶️
the lush
And Now, for Their Next Trick: Trick Dog Releases a Book
the socialite
Next Week Will Have Fabulously Foggy Conditions: Don’t Miss FOG Design+Art Fair (and the Powerful Stories Behind A16’s Pop-Up)
The third edition of San Francisco Art Week will take place January 17th–25th (view special events here), and at its core is FOG Design+Art Fair, which returns to Fort Mason Center for its 12th edition, running Thursday January 22nd to Sunday January 25th. Every year, I’m so impressed with how the contemporary design and art fair continues to evolve and expand, but one constant is that I always leave visually inspired, uplifted, and with an expanded community.
Here’s the lineup of FOG Fair exhibitors, plus there are FOG Talks, and be sure to check out FOG Focus, a platform dedicated to presentations of artists in the earlier stages of their careers, which will feature a number of activations and installations on Pier 2. There’s even more programming you can read about here, like FOG MRKT and FOG Family Days.
There’s also a preview gala on Wednesday January 21st, which is a total swirl—I was so happy to be the +1 of my stylish friend, Soochie, a couple years ago!
Shelley Lindgren, Kitty Oestlien, and the A16 team collaborate with their vast community and local artists to create a unique culinary activation at the fair, and this year, their 12th pop-up, has a social justice theme and gun violence awareness message in support of Pierce’s Pledge.
FOG Fair is so busy, so I want to share the intent and powerful stories behind A16’s pop-up this year since there’s much more to the concept than visitors who just want to get a pizza may realize. (This part is heavy, but it’s important to know.) Pierce’s Pledge was founded by Lindgren’s longtime friend, Lesley Hu, whose nine-year-old son, Pierce, was tragically murdered by his father in 2021 while Hu was actively fighting for custody. Hu is courageously working to transform this unimaginable tragedy into a mission to protect children and reduce gun violence, something that resonates personally with Lindgren. In California, Hu is advocating for family law attorneys to require that clients declare any guns in their possession and make the weapons inaccessible for the duration of legal proceedings. Pierce’s Pledge maintains a Gun Storage Map with resources for safe firearm storage, and recently launched a groundbreaking Safe Storage Program with the San Francisco Police Department (all 10 SF police stations will store guns for residents, free of charge).
The A16 pop-up will be exhibiting artwork from Halim Flowers, an artist, poet, activist, and founder of Artonomics, who (via his site): “was arrested at the age of 16 and given two life sentences. His experiences were filmed in the Emmy award-winning documentary, Thug Life in D.C. In 2005, he started his own publishing company, through which he published 11 books. In 2019, Halim was released from prison after serving 22 years. Upon his release, Halim was awarded the Halcyon Arts Lab and Echoing Green fellowship awards. In 2020, he signed to be represented by DTR Modern Galleries as a visual artist. His visual art has been commissioned for the Queen of England Platinum Jubilee, Warner Brothers centennial celebration, live painting at the Royal Wedding of Norway for Princess Martha, and exhibited at the Venice Biennale with the European Cultural Center.”
Flowers (represented in California by Monica Graham Fine Art) has generously donated four works on display in support of Pierce’s Pledge and protecting children (available via charitable donation). There will also be a benefit dinner for Pierce’s Pledge in A16’s pop-up space on Thursday January 22nd—each guest receives a limited-edition, signed print created exclusively for the evening. Here’s to everyone collaborating on this pop-up to help foster healing, safety, change, and awareness.
The A16 pop-up dining experience for FOG will feature seated indoor and outdoor waterfront dining on A16’s wood-fired pizzas, pasta, salads, and a selection of local and Italian wines, as well as bar and coffee service. Reserve your table here (Thu 1/22–Sat 1/24 11am–7pm, Sun 1/25 11am–5pm), or you can order at the walk-up counter and bar.
Cocktails from Rye on the Road will include the First Press/Clean Slate (olive oil–washed vodka, sumac, lime, burnt rosemary), Peel the Justice/Equality Juice (blood orange, bergamot, Meyer lemon, proscecco), and four more additional ingredient-driven cocktails. Enjoy a spritz at a table on the pier by the pizza ovens! (There will be more Rye on the Road cocktails you can enjoy in the FOG Lounge on the mezzanine adjacent to the FOG Theater.)
Get single-day tickets to FOG for $35 in advance; $40 after January 21st (plus fees).
