what’s cookin’
Somebody pinch meeeeeee! Last Friday, I punched the clock after lunch to drive up to Napa to see the one-and-only Miss Grace Jones perform that evening for the Blue Note Summer Sessions at The Meritage Resort. It seemed like such an odd venue for her to have a show at, but I was shocked to see how close we could get to the stage with premium tickets. Like, five rows back. Sold! Because the closer to Grace, the closer to Goddess!
Her performance was so intimate—it was like watching a cabaret show, and there’s nothing like her on-stage banter and sass during all of her wardrobe changes into her high-fashun lewks. I can’t believe she’s 77—but then again, she’s superhuman. She is so strong, so fierce, the ultimate badass. The time-traveling set was so uplifting and funky and the medicine we all desperately needed last week.
After the show, I was hanging out with our posse at the hotel bar, and a little later on, there was Grace, talking to a couple in the lobby. (My brain: “Wait, is that really her? Are you kidding meeeeee?”) I politely hovered about 10 feet away, and when she wrapped up her chat, I started to approach and asked her, “When are you coming back to San Francisco to dance in the fountain at the EndUp?” (Yeah, that!) She turned and smiled, and then three of us walked up to her, telling her how much we enjoyed the show and thanking her, and the next thing I know, she gave each of us a cheek-to-cheek kiss! Yes, I died! On the spot! (See what happens when you don’t ruin the moment asking for a selfie?)
She started making her way to the elevator with her adorable nephew, and I followed her to the outside of the elevator doors, telling her our room number in case she wanted a nightcap at our after-party, with a big wink. She paused, looked me up and down, and in her trademark husky voice, she purred: “You look fabulous!” Her compliment of the century was quickly followed by her growling tiger face, with a big chomp for effect, just as the elevator doors closed. What an iconic Grace thing to do. It was hilarious. She is too much.
I was stupefied. Did that really just happen? (Full disclosure: I was on mushrooms, so the whole thing was extra-surreal.) Fortunately, a friend who was standing nearby confirmed: “Yes, gurl, that just happened.” We were squealing and cackling and I’m going to fondly savor this quirky moment foreverrrrrrr. There’s only one Grace fucking Jones. Absolute queen!
OK, back to Earth. Thanks to everyone who turned up and said hi at last Thursday’s Chat Room: Food with Gazetteer SF. I was honored to emcee the event! The turnout of culinary talent on-stage was pretty incredible, and the conversations and stories were so engaging. It was a wonderful night to be in community, especially during such a heavy week.
So, the James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards where on Monday night, and SF sadly didn’t take home any of the awards that we really deserved, but at least we had some bright Bay Area and Wine Country talent honored in the Media Awards on Saturday, including Preeti Mistry (for their podcast Loading Dock Talks), George McCalman, MacKenzie Chung Fegan, Andréa Lawson Gray with Auro chef Rogelio Garcia, and more. Congrats to all!
Here’s wishing everyone a beautiful Juneteenth. This KQED post lists a number of festivals and parties happening around the Bay this month, and this Thursday is the Hella Juneteenth festival in Oakland, an outdoor cookout from the awesome Last Supper Society (Fernay McPherson of Minnie Bell’s will be serving food there, among others—tickets are selling fast)!
It would also be a great time to see Black Gold: Stories Untold at Fort Point, a site-specific exhibition featuring “17 contemporary artists and collectives to reflect on the resilience, struggles, and triumphs of African Americans who lived in California from the Gold Rush to the Reconstruction period following the Civil War (c. 1849–1877).” I can’t wait to see this.
This Thursday, I’m heading out of town for my sister’s big birthday campout (along with a bunch of her friends who are all celebrating decades of birthdays) in Tuolumne County—I can’t believe I’m going to see 90 degrees! Just FYI, I will be off the grid and unavailable until Monday. I may need to push next week’s newsletter a day later—we’ll see how much I can get done after I get home on Sunday. (At least you know why you may get the hopper on Wednesday, which keeps happening over here.)
This Friday June 20th is the summer solstice—I hope you enjoy a nice evening out, although you’ll likely have to bundle up like you’re going to Antartica. Enough of this damn wind and 62 degrees. So stupid. Basta, June Gloom!
Sadly, I’ll be returning back to SF too late to attend this Sunday’s Foodwise Summer Bash at the Ferry Building. This event is always a blast, and tickets sell out, so don’t delay (take $15 off with promo code TABLEHOPPER). Feast on unlimited food and drink from 50 beloved Bay Area restaurants and beverage makers, featuring peak-summer produce from the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. (You can read more in their sponsored event ad from a couple weeks ago here. There’s such a great lineup!)
Sunday morning (June 22nd) is the sixth annual People’s March & Rally – Unite to Fight! from Alex U. Inn (Happy Birthday to you today!) and Juanita MORE! Don’t miss it! The event will begin at 11am with a rally at the corner of Polk and Washington Streets, featuring speakers and entertainers, followed by a march down Polk Street, along the same route as the first Gay Liberation Protest that was on June 27th, 1970. The march will end at Civic Center for a celebration of culture and community with DJs, performers, and artists’ booths (12:30pm–4pm).
Related to Pride: I’ve been seeing too many special item promotions on restaurant and bar menus that are just blatantly rainbow-washing, without any charitable contribution from the sale of those items. If you’re going to be selling a rainbow cookie or cake or cocktail this month, and you’re not a queer-owned business, please, give back to the community that is the reason for this month of Pride, one that really needs your true support, now more than ever.
I was hoping to send this newsletter before heading to a special Pride dinner party last night at Merkado with Juanita MORE! (the second annual MORE! Stories from Home). But, I ran outta time editing this beast (over 6,700 words!) and had to get ready. You can’t keep Juanita waiting! So, here you go.
And just as I was wrapping this column up, the news came out in the SF Chronicle that the legendary Phoenix Hotel is closing on New Year’s Day—what a bummer. 39 years! I can’t believe all the memories I have there—it has played a big part in my SF life for the past 30 years. I have some thoughts and questions, which will require time and research and calls, so stand by for more from me.
See you next week! I’m outta here!
XO 💋
~Marcia
the chatterbox
A Closer Look at Nopa Fish, Officially Open Now!
Last week, all you rad supporting subscribers got an exclusive first look at the menu and dishes at the brand-new Nopa Fish at the Ferry Building, and now I can share a few more details about this new fish market and casual seafood counter from Nopa chef-owner Laurence Jossel and Holly Rhodes. They’re applying the Nopa ethos of deep Northern California sourcing, sustainability, seasonality, and simplicity to seafood here, and, of course, continuing their trademark hospitality and community-centered focus.
Nopa Fish just finished the first week of their soft opening, and the team is still tweaking the menu and dialing things in, but here’s a little more background on some of the dishes I featured last week. I mentioned how Jossel has been enjoying tinkering with different ingredients here, like the top-notch Luna Koshihikari organic rice (grown in the Sacramento Delta) in their “Pristine Fish over Sushi Rice” chirashi box. What’s cool is any leftover rice goes into the white shrimp arancini—they figured out shorter-grain sushi rice makes incredible arancini. (They’re also made with breadcrumbs from their neighbor, Acme Bread Company, who I wrote is baking custom milk bread and buns for Nopa Fish.)
I love that the fish ’n’ chips have a bit of Moroccan flair: they feature the ras el hanout spice mix that is used in the Nopa fried chicken (one of my favorites in the 415). They’re also cutting their own Kennebec fries, and tossing them in cumin spice, serving them with harissa aioli.
Another crossover ingredient with Nopa is their McFarland springs smoked trout—here, they’re using the fish tails to flavor the chowder (instead of bacon), and I’m so glad corn is in season right now, because it really makes this chowder something extra-special.
I previously mentioned you can order a vegetarian version of the killer fried rockfish sandwich, and Jossel shares he’s sourcing the organic tofu they use from a business in the Mission that has been around since 1935!
Another fish-free dish on the menu is their summer salad, which currently features organic Little Gems, stone fruit, sheep’s milk feta, almonds, and honey balsamic vinaigrette. (Nopa always rocks a salad.)
A kid’s menu option includes grilled cheese on milk bread, and you can also get fries or seaweed potato chips on the side. Upcoming dishes include a ceviche, and stand by for a fun fried special I will tell you about soon.
The other big component to the project is the fish counter, something that has been missing from the Ferry Building since the former fish market (San Francisco Fish Company) closed in 2020. Nopa Fish has an eight-foot case stocked with responsibly sourced, traceable fish through trusted local vendors, including TwoXSea, The Tides in Bodega Bay, Monterey Fish Company, Corfini, and direct relationships with local fishing operations. Joe Conte of Water2Table provided additional sourcing guidance for Nopa Fish (he has deep knowledge of small-boat fisheries with a commitment to transparent supply chains).
The case is stocked with mostly local seafood (whole or fillets) and shellfish—like black cod, halibut, petrale sole, oysters, and Monterey squid—but it also showcases Baja kampachi, Washington mussels, Florida little neck clams, Massachusetts scallops, and Gulf shrimp. It all looks so pristine and beautifully presented, and anything that is leftover will be used on the menu the next day (hello, chowder, and I am standing by for baked oysters).
There will be some takeaway items as well, like the pickled beet hummus they serve with the latkes, smashed cucumbers, fish stock, and more. There’s a selection of California wine (chardonnay, rosé, and chilled merlot), ciders, Fort Point KSA (which they use in the rockfish batter), plus a couple N/A beers, strawberry lemonade, and iced tea. Some retail items like fish pliers, cookbooks, and ingredients will also be stocked.
The space pays homage to Bay Area craft and creativity, and is full of handmade, artisan, and custom design touches. Holly Rhodes worked with the multidisciplinary team McCalman.Co. and The Falcon and The Filly on the interior, brand development, creative direction, and visual identity (which totally pops in the hand-painted signage by local artist David Benzler).
There are two custom tables on wheels that seat 20 by Berkeley cabinetmaker Betz Sweeney; a stunning, handmade tile mural by Outer Sunset ceramicist Georgia Hodges; a wall installation of 100 ceramic fish crafted by Della Garcia (Laurence and Holly’s 16-year-old daughter); and stand by for a mosaic blade sign by artist Georgy Avakov, made of 10,000 hand-placed tiles that will be installed in the hallway just outside the space. Even the aprons are SF made: they were donated by Levi Strauss & Company (since 1853!).
The latest hours are Mon–Fri 11am–7pm and Sat 10am–7pm; Sundays will start after the first month. 1 Ferry Building, Suite 31.
An Update on Grande Crêperie and What’s Next for Their Space at the Ferry Building
A couple weeks ago, I shared a letter in tablehopper from Grande Crêperie owners Patrick and Joanna Ascaso (of Le Marais Bakery), who wrote that their lease was not renewed and they are sadly closing their business at the Ferry Building Marketplace on June 30th (their last day of service is June 29th).
These recent stories in SFGATE and the SF Chronicle include a statement from Hudson Pacific Properties (the commercial real estate agency for the Ferry Building) and some additional details about what transpired. There are a few sides to the complicated story, and, unfortunately, each party has a different take on the situation, which boils down to a verbal one-year lease renewal/extension that was implied to be forthcoming, and then, three weeks before the lease was going to end, the Acasos were told it wasn’t going to be renewed after all. (The Acasos have posted a follow-up letter in response to the veracity of their claims being questioned, which you can read here.)
In a call with Patrick Acaso, he shared that he understands the nature of business, and that leases can be lost, but for him, the most upsetting thing is the way they are being treated as retailers, which feels like “a slap to the face.” The Acasos were working with Hudson Pacific Properties under the impression that their short-term lease was going to be renewed, and were actively developing ideas on extending their hours, expanding their menu offerings into the evening (with raclette and Champagne), as well as planning how to improve the outside dining experience, and then they were suddenly told their lease was not being renewed for various reasons.
You may recall a similar situation with Reem’s, when their two-year lease wasn’t renewed and they had to suddenly close in January. It’s hard to understand what Hudson Pacific Property’s long-term vision is since businesses keep getting brought in on short-term leases and then shuffled out. It’s beginning to seem that tenants on a short-term lease at the Ferry Building should plan on it to not be renewed, no matter the success or popularity of their business.
What I do know is this: the Acasos have worked very hard to build their business here in the City over the past 13 years, sharing their passion for quality baked goods and well-made food—while bringing their customers delight and happiness—as well as contributing to and being an active part of the community.
San Francisco has not been easy on them: they got squeezed out of their flagship bakery on Chestnut Street in the Marina back in 2021 when lease negotiations failed with their landlord (the space still sits empty), they survived the pandemic, their Castro location has suffered numerous break-ins and vandalism (their glass door was broken again a few weeks ago, and just over the past weekend, they were robbed yet again: “all our tablets, registers, safe, cash from the days before, once again stolen.”), and now they’re being shown the exit door at the Ferry Building Marketplace, a project they were so proud of.
The Acasos renovated the former Frog Hollow space at the Ferry Building for almost a year (investing $150,000 in the project), and opened Grande Crêperie back in March 2022. The Ferry Building was languishing with low foot traffic back then, but as dedicated Ferry Plaza Farmers Market–goers, the Acasos believed a brighter and busier time would return to the Ferry Building. They were honored to have a stall there, and grew their business and customer base week by week. Patrick Acaso says, “There was never a message that we weren’t performing well.” In fact, they have been doing strong numbers (he said they did $1.3M in revenue last year), so the confounding closure of this location is a big hit to their team and health of their overall business.
The Acasos are regrouping and focusing on their Le Marais Bakery commissary location on Sutter Street, now offering brunch Fri–Sun, and they’re making it a bit of an incubator and doing more cooked dishes (like short ribs) on the weekends, which is when you can find their crêpes there, too. They have been baking some incredible-sounding seasonal fruit specials on the weekends, subscribe to their newsletter for updates.
Meanwhile, I was surprised to receive the news that the new tenant in the Grande Crêperie space (Suite 46) will be Red Bay Coffee, the Black-owned specialty coffee company from owner-founder Keba Konte. Red Bay Coffee has been moving around the Ferry Building this past year: they had to close and leave their location in January (along with Reem’s California), and then they came back as a pop-up with their van on the back patio. Konte says, “We’re thrilled to begin this next chapter of Red Bay Coffee at the Ferry Building. Our presence here has always been a dream come true — and now, it’s a dream renewed.”
According to the press release, they will be offering an all-day menu of bites, like an egg croissant sandwich, a grilled mozzarella and pesto panino, and a savory frittata slice; they’ll be partnering with Florecita Panadería, Dynamo Donuts, and Neighbor Bakehouse to serve additional pastry and bread items. The release mentions: “The new shop will feature extended hours, now closing at 8pm, during which Red Bay plans to eventually serve newly-developed coffee cocktails.”
Of course, I’m thrilled to see Red Bay Coffee continue their presence at the Ferry Building, and I want this Black-owned, fourth-wave coffee roaster to thrive there, but I’m curious to see how much coffee cocktails are going to drive the evening business Hudson Pacific Property keeps claiming they need from their mix of tenants.
Another thing to ponder about the Ferry Building’s mysterious tenant mix formula relates to the upcoming opening of Parachute Bakery from the Sorrel team this summer. Is Hudson trying to clear the path for them to have more success and business by not competing with the array of baked goods at Grande Crêperie? I don’t have answers, just thoughts and questions. I also don’t like having to write pieces like this, but it’s hard to watch good people be treated so unkindly. Best wishes to the Acasos, who thankfully haven’t given up on San Francisco—I really hope things can ease up for them.
Al Pastor Papi Is Now Open in Union Square (It’s Time for an Alpastorta)
By Olivia Casellini
Back in April, tablehopper wrote about Al Pastor Papi’s new and permanent Union Square location (first reported by California Eating), a wonderful upgrade since chef-owner Miguel Escobedo closed his hot pink food truck focused on Mexico City–style al pastor (marinated pork shaved off a vertical trompo) in January. (Check out this awesome Munchies video of Escobedo’s former food truck operation.)
This location is the newest addition to the City’s Vacant to Vibrant program that is focused on re-energizing downtown. When Vacant to Vibrant acquired the Union Square storefront, previously a Chipotle, they reached out to Escobedo to bring his legendary al pastor tacos to the space. The menu in the new location includes the highlights of the popular food truck, like tacos, burritos, and the “alpastorta.” Escobedo says, “I want to concentrate on what we do.”
He’s also excited about the possibilities of now having a bigger and permanent storefront. The larger kitchen allows for grilling, and Escobedo plans to expand the menu to include more specials, and potentially more entrée options during the evening. Currently, he’s working on installing a wooden DJ booth to host vinyl DJs, and obtaining a beer and wine license.
“Ultimately, with everything coming together, we’ll have the city’s most funnest brunches on the weekends,” Escobedo said. The store’s bright pink walls (a callback to the restaurant’s original food truck), and the promise of excellent DJs are indeed fun, but the most vibrant part of the restaurant is the food.
The star of the selection of Mexican City–style food is, as expected, the tacos al pastor de trompo. The subtle heat and smokiness of the al pastor shines in this form.
The “alpastorta” (pictured at the top) features shavings of al pastor, pockets of melted cheese, and other toppings tucked into a toasted soft roll—the freshness of the avocado, crema, grilled pineapple, and cilantro balance the richness of the al pastor, melted cheese, and refried pinto beans.
Escobedo plans to open for later hours (potentially 11am–8pm) in the coming weeks. He also mentions DJ brunches are coming, too. “We’re looking forward to the future . . . and excited to be here,” Escobedo said. So are we! Al Pastor Papi is open this week from Tue–Sat 11am–3pm. 232 O’Farrell St. at Powell.
Score Some Beautiful Loaves from a New Micro-Bakery in the Tenderloin: Leaven Worth
A couple months ago, a good friend posted a picture of a beautiful loaf of sourdough bread that instantly piqued my curiosity (and desire to have my own). When I was visiting the new Queer Ass Pride show at Rosebud Gallery for SF First Thursday Art Walk earlier this month, I was lucky to find baker Matthew Reyes of Leaven Worth next door selling his loaves from inside the diner created for the Compton’s Cafeteria Riot set! I snagged his classic sourdough loaf with a golden flaxseed exterior, a total steal for $10. It’s beautifully hydrated, formed, and baked, with great flavor (I dig the golden flaxseeds), and it makes incredible toast. (I also adore the clever name, inspired by him living in the Tenderloin for over a decade.)
Reyes tells me he uses a 100-year-old starter, and his dough has a two-day fermentation, usually 36–48 hours, and he uses flour from Giusto’s. While the golden flaxseed is his primary loaf, he likes to rotate in new flavors: he’s going to be making an everything bagel loaf (with golden flaxseed) next month ($10). He also does a Thai iced tea loaf ($12) with condensed sweetened cream swirl and honey cinnamon butter (he said he basically rolls two loaves together to make it).
Reyes is a self-taught baker who really got into baking during the pandemic—he was previously a bartender, and when he was guest bartending at Rosebud Gallery (839 Larkin St.), he was invited to bring his loaves to sell there. Now, he’s the food director for Compton’s Cafeteria Riot next door (835 Larkin St.), so you can find him making pancakes and sausages for the immersive show, and bringing his loaves to sell on Sundays from 3pm–6pm. (He’s also selling his loaves there for SF First Thursday Art Walk from 6pm–10pm, which sell out.)
Follow the Leaven Worth Instagram account for occasional updates on his bake sales, and he hopes to have a brick and mortar at some point. In the meantime, he’s working at Arsicault Bakery to learn the business, as well as working on getting his private pilot’s license, and taking an EMT course to become a fireman, so someone is busy!
An Opening Weekend Visit to the New Bones Bagels Storefront in Noe Valley
By Olivia Casellini
The newest addition to the growing list of things San Franciscans will wait in line for is a sourdough bagel at Bones Bagels in Noe Valley. At the end of May, tablehopper wrote about the plans for Bones Bagels’ new shop, and recently ran an update that they would open on Friday June 13th.
On Saturday morning around 10am, I visited Noah Orloff’s new brick-and-mortar location. There were couples, families, and dogs spilling out the door. The long line could have been due to the shop’s proximity to the No Kings Protest, but based on the Instagram stories of the similarly long wait on Friday and Sunday, it seems that the City is always excited to try a new bagel. People strolling by eagerly joined the back of the line when they were told everyone was waiting for bagels.
Orloff began his pop-up and delivery service, initially called Bones Bagels and Breads, in the garage of his Outer Sunset home. There, he milled flour with a stationary bike-powered contraption to make his baked goods. Now, he’s moved into a permanent location focused on bagels with a supporting cast of rotating sweet treats.
There are a few benches outside where you can sit while eating your bagel and sipping your coffee, but the store is mainly built for takeout. Luckily, the Noe Valley Park is only a block away if you can’t get a seat. The current hours are Thu–Sun 8am–2pm or until sellout. 741 Diamond St. at 24th St.
WesBurger ’n’ More Is Closing Next Month, and a Fire Has Temporarily Closed Nineteen21
Sad news out of the Mission: Wes Rowe just announced he’s closing WesBurger ’n’ More on July 15th. He told me it was the end of his lease, and while it was a hard decision to not renew, it was the right time to close up shop. Big sigh. I remember when he was running his pop-up out of Mojo Bicycle Cafe in 2013, selling his sick cast-iron skillet smash burgers (the Hot Wes!) and queso tots. What a journey it has been.
He went on to open the retro-styled WesBurger on Mission Street in 2016, and since then, he has been winning awards and blowing minds with his creative concoctions (running a new special practically every week), building a loyal community of dedicated fans, tot by tot, so this one hurts for a bunch of folks. We’re gonna miss these burgers and fried chicken sandwiches (and burritos) and the nice team who worked there. Go swing by this upcoming month. Thank you, Wes. We love you. 2240 Mission St. at 18th St.
I was so bummed to see there was a fire at the building where Nineteen21 recently opened in Bayview—this is the woman-owned members lounge from SF Black Wall Street, which I just wrote about in March. According to their Instagram post, thankfully, no one was hurt, but there was some damage to the restaurant (I hear it’s mostly water damage), so the lounge is temporarily closed. Here’s hoping for a swift comeback. 701 Yosemite Ave. at 3rd St.
the lush
Just in Time for Pride Month: Rikki’s Opens in the Castro, San Francisco’s New and Only Women’s Sports Bar
A couple weekends ago, I swung by a preview event for the new Rikki’s bar in the Castro, San Francisco’s only bar dedicated to celebrating women’s sports! The timing of the opening couldn’t be better, with Pride Month underway, as well as all the growing excitement around women’s sports teams, like the Golden State Valkyries (San Francisco’s WNBA team that started off its inaugural season with four sellout crowds at the Chase Center), and Bay FC, the Bay Area’s professional women’s soccer team entering their second year competing in the National Women’s Soccer League.
Back in January, I wrote about this queer-founded, women’s sports bar from first-time, co-owners Danielle Thoe and Sara Yergovich, who met while playing soccer for the San Francisco Spikes, an LGBTQ+ soccer club. Over the past year, they’ve been holding watch parties for women’s sports events at Standard Deviant, drawing hundreds of people, and now, they opened Rikki’s in just six months (!), a permanent and inclusive place for anyone who wants to watch women’s sports. (And since there’s a full kitchen, Rikki’s can welcome guests of all ages.)
The space was previously Copas, and once upon a time, it was the beloved 2223 Restaurant. Now, it has TV screens throughout the space, large communal tables (plus smaller ones, too), a lively bar, memorabilia on the walls celebrating women’s sports and the namesake Rikki Streicher, and some fun basketball lights.
Rikki’s is named in honor of Rikki Streicher, a community activist, leader, and bar owner who Yergovich states, “Opened Maud’s [where Finnegan’s Wake is now] and Amelia’s in the ’60s and ’70s, which were known as lesbian bars, but really, they were community centers and gathering spaces for queer women.” Streicher also helped found the Gay Games.
Rikki’s was made possible in part due to the Castro Cultural District’s Small Business Grant, administered by the SF LGBT Center, as well as the Office of Small Business’ Storefront Grant, administered by SF New Deal.
Thoe shares: “It’s special that Sara and I are opening Rikki’s during Pride Month. This year, San Francisco Pride’s theme is ‘Queer Love is Resistance,’ and while it’s unfortunate that the existence of queer love and inclusive spaces feels like an act of resistance, I’m proud to be opening a space in this historic LGBTQ neighborhood. Rikki’s is a space that celebrates women’s sports and our doors are open to all, especially members of the LGBTQ community.” The team has been thrilled with the turnout over the opening week, and seeing such an intergenerational mix of guests in the bar—we’re talking multiple generations of queer women in one space. It’s powerful.
They have a great team getting the bar up and running: I originally mentioned that Vinny Eng (previously Bar Tartine and wine director at Tartine Manufactory) is helping out as opening GM, and the consulting chef is JD Voss, who has created a shareable menu of creative California comfort food with a housemade touch, and plenty of g/f, vegetarian, and vegan options.
At the preview, we snacked on the seasoned sugar snap peas ($13) with a burrata dip (or you can order a vegan white bean dip), and the roasted cabbage ($19) comes with a base of whipped turmeric tofu, crispy quinoa, cilantro chimichurri, and pickled fresno chile. I love seeing all the vegetable options, but I can’t wait to return for the duck fat confit chicken wings ($15).
We also ordered the hot chicken sammy ($17), which came with a super-crispy, cornflake-crusted thigh, Rikki’s buffalo sauce, jalapeño-ranch slaw, and dill pickle on a ciabatta roll. You’ll find a beet burger, smash burger, fish and chips, pear grilled cheese, and meatloaf (which made me wonder if it was a nod to the former 2223).
Our City’s beloved Christian “Suzu” Suzuki (previously at Wildhawk) was brought on as the cocktail menu consultant—he has been busy in New York working on a multitude of projects (he’s going to be opening two bars there!), but it’s great to have him keep a sparkly toe in SF. It ends up he has known co-owner Sara Yergovich since elementary school, so this is a full-circle moment for them. (Funnily enough, I have been friends with Sara’s brother Marc for over 25 years!)
It was important to Suzu to make sure the cocktails were approachable and not too esoteric, while keeping things cost conscious, and to offer well-crafted low-ABV and no-ABV options. On the bar, we found his list of signature cocktails ($16), which included the Iron Maven (bourbon, amaro, rosemary vermouth, hibiscus, ginger, lemon, aquafaba), which was right up my alley. There’s also the “FORGET THE REST,” a Margarita-style cocktail made with tequila or mezcal, lychee, St. George green chile, Thai basil, lime, and jalapeño and chile de árbol—the name is a reference to Kristi Yamaguchi (“You just do your best and forget the rest.”).
Suzu is definitely having fun with THE J.A.M., made with Bayan pineapple gin and Sipsmith Strawberry Smash gin, Skrewball peanut butter whiskey, and dry vermouth. He says he wanted to get away from the machismo of cocktail bars here, and be unpretentious, fun, and colorful (just wait until you see the “Queen Is King,” a blue-hued nod to Billie Jean King). Cheers!
You’ll see some classic cocktails, like a Margarita, penicillin, old fashioned, (triple) espresso martini, and a cosmopolitan, all just $14. On the low-ABV list (all $13), Suzu’s fans will recognize his Bianca Dill Rio, a recipe from Wildhawk that he tweaked here (“She got a facelift!”), a sour-style cocktail with dill akavit, dry vermouth, grapefruit, white pepper, lemon, and aquafaba (keeping it vegan). The Hail Mary is inspired by a rebujito (a type of sherry mojito), with fino sherry, citrus gin from Pacific House on Treasure Island, makrut lime leaf, lime, and Lagunitas hop water. There are also four non-alcoholic cocktails for $11, all made with the same level of craft and quality as the alcoholic drinks.
There are three well-chosen wines by the glass/bottle (Vinny Eng shares they will see about adding more in the future, and he hints that coming this fall, one of the most beloved New California producers will be making a proprietary red for Rikki’s!). There are seven local beers on draft, with more in bottle/cans, plus all kinds of N/A options. Whether you’re coming by to watch an afternoon game and grab a beer, or enjoying dinner and a drink with friends in the evening, the flexible menu has options.
Hours are Tue–Thu 3:30pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–12am, and Sun 11:30am–10pm. Keep up with updates at @rikkisbarsf. 2223 Market St. at Sanchez.
Now Open in the Marina: A True Darling
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Bar Darling—from Nate Valentine, Stryker Scales, and executive chef Sam Josi (the team behind the former Tipsy Pig), along with Jamal Blake-Williams—recently opened in the Marina. With Northern California, nature-inspired décor, hand-crafted, farm-to-bar cocktails, and a minimalist-yet-diverse food menu, the concept offers a cozy and whimsical space for guests to relax.
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