what’s cookin’
Oh, hey. How are you hanging in there with this stupid grey windy weather that never ends? Yeah, it’s that time of the year when I start to get fussy. On Sunday, after spending a few hours at the Vintage Paper Fair procuring new treasures to share with you in the archivist, and snagging a couple boules from Leaven Worth bread, I headed down to San Mateo for dinner with the ’rents. I couldn’t believe how lovely it was in their backyard garden at 5pm, with blue skies and no wind. I felt some of my blergh that has spilled over from June gloom (and the daily news) lift a little bit, but as soon as I drove back into our blustery city, my good mood got misty again. Reminder to self (and you): it’s time to get out of the wind and fog and into some sun, a river, a lake, a backyard, a beach, a pool, a sea. (And maybe out of the United States altogether.)
Thankfully, tomatoes are just starting to get delicious, so the timing is perfect to listen to Cathy Whims (six-time James Beard Award finalist and chef/owner of Nostrana, Portland) talk about her debut cookbook, The Italian Summer Kitchen. She’ll be in conversation with our Italian culinary goddess and cookbook author Viola Buitoni at Omnivore Books next Wednesday July 23rd at 6:30pm.
But, for now, I’m fired up to rock out at the Yeah Yeah Yeahs at the SF Symphony tonight (thanks to an awesome tablehopper subscriber who bought my extra ticket!). Karen O is like some defibrillator paddles to the spirit. The weekend is going to start early for me on Friday afternoon: I’m taking a new cocktail and history tour through the Financial District and North Beach (Cocktail and Bar History Hop with Camper English) of Alcademics. (I mean, it has hop in the name, of course I’m doing it.) There are a few tickets left if you want to join us!
This Saturday July 19th is a double-play: I’ll be attending the “Roe-deo” celebration with The Caviar Co. for National Caviar Day (more on that below!), and it’s also the 24th annual San Francisco magazine Best of the Bay party at The Conservatory at One Sansome (the magazine is celebrating their 70th anniversary)!
If you didn’t win, you can still use discount code Tablehopper20off for 20 percent off tickets. There will be all kinds of bites, cocktails, wine, and tunes. The event supports SFArtsED, a nonprofit providing arts education and mentorship for the next generation of local creatives. See you there!
Cheers!
~Marcia
the chatterbox
A Fun Evening Outing in SoMa: Bubbles, Papa Noodle, and Ruth Asawa’s Artwork
A couple months ago, I punched the clock early and headed over to SFMOMA to see the Ruth Asawa: Retrospective (the first posthumous retrospective of Asawa’s work, spanning six decades of her career). It was such a moving exhibit, especially when you learn even more about her life and how she lived it, her many talents, interests, causes (her work as an educator and her legacy for arts education are so admirable), and her inimitable style. You’ll learn about her artwork that is all over the City (did you know about her Origami Fountains at Japantown?), including a plaque she made for the Hagiwara family at the Japanese Tea Garden, who were also interned in detention camps at the start of World War II (read more in today’s the archivist).
Don’t miss this meditative and deeply personal show about one of San Francisco’s brightest talents before it closes on September 2nd, and you also need to visit Kara Walker’s astounding Fortuna and the Immortality Garden (Machine) on the ground floor (which, by the way, you don’t have to pay admission to see). I recommend attending the museum on a Thursday evening, when it’s open late until 8pm.
If you want a bite before (or after), you should head to Papa Noodle on New Montgomery Street (whether you want to sit down or take your noodles to go is up to you), and I just found out they offer SFMOMA members a 10 percent discount.
I wrote about this new noodle shop when it opened back in January, and have been so impressed to see how founder Jie Zhang continues to evolve the concept and experience there—now he’s even serving the noodles in bowls instead of takeout containers for in-house diners.
It’s a fast-casual noodle shop with a very tight menu, based around paying homage to a noodle dish Zhang’s father made, hence its Papa Noodle name, which is a sort of love child of zha jiang mian—a Northern Chinese dish that is often called a “Chinese bolognese”—and Sichuan dan dan noodles. Zhang (who is from Henan Province) has been perfecting this dish for two years, which comes with a simmered pork and mushroom sauce, springy housemade noodles, organic ginger, green onion, and house spices and chile sauce, plus additional toppings like carrot, cucumber, sweet and garlicky house-pickled mustard greens, and bean sprouts ($16.88). Zhang has recently added a chicken variation, which I haven’t tried yet.
It’s a dry noodle dish (not a soup) and it isn’t oily or heavy—the vegetables all taste fresh and are well-prepared. You mix it all together, and me being me, I add their housemade chile oil to spike things up, and a touch of their black vinegar to make the flavors pop. They purposefully keep all their dishes pretty mild so guests can dial the heat to their palate. It’s a bountiful and generous serving—I always have some left over for a snack or small additional meal.
The bouncy noodles are housemade, and I think you can admire their fresh taste and texture the most in the vegan loma noodle dish ($15.88). It’s inspired by the Shanghainese scallion noodle dish of cong you mian, made here with three kinds of onions that they caramelize until golden, organic ginger, garlic, five-spice powder, chile olive oil, and topped with tofu tots, carrot, cucumber, and bean sprouts. Since Zhang has tweaked the preparation of the tofu tots, this vegan noodle dish is actually my new favorite—I love the flavorful sauce and vegetables.
The super tofu tots ($10) are fried in potato starch, so they’re crispy outside and creamy inside. Zhang has been dialing up the flavor of these tots (with five spice and cumin), so now they’re really tasty and have such a satisfying texture. They come with a vegan housemade mayo that has some black vinegar in it for some tang.
For a fast-casual place that has you order at a kiosk, they are super-hospitable (you’ll find a piece of White Rabbit candy with your order—Zhang was born in the year of the rabbit—and there’s also a tooth-flosser, awwwww) and it’s quite spotless. Service is fast and efficient. I appreciate how much he cares about his guests, their feedback, and is constantly tweaking and improving the experience there.
The interior of Papa Noodle, Walovi herbal tea, and founder Jie Zhang. Photos: © tablehopper.com.
Zhang has turned me on to Walovi (Wang Lao Ji), a canned herbal tea that is sweet yet earthy and pairs well with spicy dishes (I have a heavy hand with the chile oil at Papa Noodle). There are a few tables outside, and plenty inside, whether you’re dining solo or with a group. Open Mon–Sat 11am–9pm. 117 New Montgomery St. at Minna.
New Openings Include Tacos El Último Baile and Superprime Steakhouse
More Details on Precita Social, Opening in August
Dining Updates: Onsen Launches Dinner Service with Rotating Chefs, Turtle Tower Is Staying Open Hella Late
A few weeks ago, I mentioned the recently reopened Tenderloin bathhouse, Onsen, was going to be announcing details about their new food program soon. Their latest Instagram post shares that every weekend, they’ll have pop-up chefs take over their kitchen and cook a preset menu to be enjoyed after you soak in the bathhouse (so, if you book a 4pm soak for two hours, you can have dinner at 6pm, or a 6pm soak and 8pm dinner). There will be a three-course menu featuring a progression of small plates, from cold bites to warm dishes and dessert. Tea, sake, and beer are also available.
Here’s the lineup of rotating chefs: July 19th-20th Onsen; July 25th-27th Here Before; August 1st-3rd Akus BBQ; August 8th-10th Fishplate; August 15th-17th Dostee; August 22nd-24th Sushi Simpin; August 29th-31st Claws of Mantis.
It’s a small dining room, so tables are limited to four guests, and only for those who book a bath-and-dinner experience (two hours of soaking and dinner: $110). If you don’t want to partake in the bath and just want dinner, they will have a few seats at the bar for $60 (5:30pm–8pm). Reserve here. 466 Eddy St. at Hyde.
A Sourdough Bagel Discovery at Local Farmers’ Markets
By Olivia Casellini
The search for bagels in the Bay continues! In response to our visit to the new Bones Bagels storefront, a tablehopper subscriber sent in this hot tip: “My wife and I discovered Dudley’s Bagels, at the Stonestown Farmers Market and also in San Rafael. The bagels are made in a pop up kitchen in San Rafael and they are delicious. Sourdough base, dense but not ridiculously sized, malty exteriors. I tried the pumpernickel last Sunday and it has a unique, subtle flavor.”
On a recent Sunday morning, I popped by the Stonestown Farmers Market to do some recon and stock up on the glossy bagels at the Dudley’s Bagels stand (just look for their pink-lavender signage and T-shirts).
The generously coated sourdough bagels have a crunchy and crackly exterior and a chewy, tangy interior. The recipe is the result of years of fine-tuning, ever since founder Will Dudley began to make bagels for his family when he moved to Sonoma from New York City. “Growing up in Westfield, New Jersey, there’s a bagel place, The Bagel Chateau, that we all went to growing up, like I’m sure most of the Northeast, especially in high school, for most brunches and lunches. So I was just trying to recreate that image I had in my memory,” Dudley shared.
You can pick some up Thu 8am–1pm at Marin Farmers Market, 10 Ave. of the Flags, San Rafael. Sun 9am–1pm at Stonestown Farmers Market, 501 Buckingham Way.
Aslam’s Rasoi Announces Closure, and Castro Updates
Back in May, I shared an update that Aslam’s Rasoi was continuing to fight to stay open, but in their latest newsletter, they announced that Sunday July 21st will be their last day open. Here’s more: “After more than 19 unforgettable years of sharing food, laughter, and community with you, we want to extend our deepest gratitude for the love and support you’ve given us at Aslam’s Rasoi....We hope you’ll join us one last time to share a meal, a hug, and a heartfelt goodbye. Please stay subscribed to our email list so we can keep you updated on what’s next.” Sigh. A tablehopper reader let me know the son and daughter-in-law hope to open again, maybe in North Beach. I will keep you posted if I hear anything. 1037 Valencia St.
Hoodline reports the Pink Swallow project from the Beaux team that was slated to open in the former Harvey’s is kaput. 500 Castro St.
Also in the Castro: here’s the latest on the fate of the Khoury brothers’ businesses (Castro Coffee Co. and Castro Nail Salon) next to the Castro Theatre. The Bay Area Reporter shares: “Mayor Daniel Lurie set a 60-day timetable for good faith negotiations between the two businesses flanking the Castro Theatre and the building’s owners and managers.”
Expansions Around the Bay
by Savannah Leone Bundy
This fall, Albany will start smelling like buttery kouign amann when Starter Bakery opens a second retail location on Solano. With outdoor café seating and all the crowd favorites—viennoiserie, breads, seasonal pies, tarts, cakes, and more—baked on-site daily, guests can expect a taste of the sweet (and savory) life without having to trek to Rockridge. Stay tuned for the official grand opening and hours. 1183 Solano Ave. at Stannage, Albany.
the lush
Unfiltered: a Tasting and Intimate Discussions About California Wine in Berkeley on Saturday July 26th
By Olivia Casellini
Learn more about winemaking techniques and philosophies at Unfiltered: Conversations About Wine hosted at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley on Saturday July 26th. The festival will feature 20 California wine producers (check out their profiles on the event’s Instagram) dedicated to small production and low intervention, including B Side, Belong, Blade and Talon, BXT, Cruess, End of No Where, Florez, Gondak, Guthrie Family Wine, Henderson Harvest, Hobo Wine Co., Jake Des Voignes, Leo Steen, Loella, North American Press, Old World, Osa Major, Pax, Perch, and Two Shepards.
The event is focused on intimate learning and discussion with winemakers. Additionally, there will be optional seminars, including “California’s Changing Climate, Grape Varietals and Farming for the Future” and “Minimal Intervention Wine-Making,” at 1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 3:30pm. There will also be several food pop-ups from Bay Area vendors. Tickets are $55. Industry tasting: 12pm–1pm, consumer tasting: 1pm–5pm. 1340 5th St., Berkeley. After party at Banter Wine Bar: 5pm–late. 10368 San Pablo Ave., El Cerrito.
the socialite
The Caviar Co.’s 10th Annual National Caviar Day “Roe-deo” Is This Saturday July 19th
By Olivia Casellini
The Caviar Co. is back with their extravagant annual celebration of National Caviar Day (with over 40 pounds of caviar!) on Saturday July 19th. Pull on your boots and get ready to indulge in craft cocktails, an open bar with Champagne, wine, and beer, N/A drinks from The New Bar, caviar canapés from chef Chris Ratcliff, a pizza station from A16, and jamón carvings by La Cortadora. This year’s theme, “This Ain’t Our First Roe-deo,” will feature western-style entertainment, like lasso performers and live musical acts.
General admission tickets are $275 and VIP salons are available upon inquiry. Saint Joseph’s Art Society, 1401 Howard St. at 10th St. 7pm–10pm.
New Parties and Outdoor Gatherings Around Town
By Olivia Casellini
Fridays on Front St. is back on July 18th for another admission-free block party! There will be live outdoor music from Bay Area bands, lawn games, a viewing of the Giants vs. Blue Jays game, pop-ups from local vendors, and outdoor drinking. Harrington’s Bar & Grill, The Royal Exchange, and Schroeder’s will host DJ sets and offer happy hour specials. 240 Front St. at Sacramento. 4pm–9pm.
Every Friday until September 19th, MINTED SF is bringing an open-air party to Mint Plaza. Participating restaurants are offering dine-in eating and special to-go items (only available during the weekly party) while listening to the live performances and DJ sets. 54 Mint is serving panino di vaccinara (braised oxtail sliders), supplì cacio e pepe, and mezze maniche all’amatriciana. Burma Love will have popcorn chicken, mini samosas, fried egg rolls, and tea leaf salad. The normally expensive Hashiri will offer a bento box for $43, plus a veggie rice bowl, and a selection of drinks, including yuzu sparkling, sake, and pours to-go. Fridays 5pm–9pm. Mint Plaza at 5th St.
