what’s cookin’
Good day, sunshine! What a nice change from the usual June gloom. Last night was the perfect evening to be on the rooftop of The Hotel Castro for a VIPride party (thanks to an invite from the Lobby Bar). I look forward to seeing how they develop the rooftop for future lounging with a cocktail in hand.
My wingwoman and I then lucked out enjoying even more of the balmy weather over dinner on the patio of the new Parasol at Cafe Flore—I didn’t even need my jacket at 8pm, a rarity in SF. While Parasol is still finding its groove, I thoroughly enjoyed my glass of Armenian sparkling wine from Keush, along with the supple rainbow carrots (perfect for Pride, LOL) with a muhamarra-inspired dressing (roasted pepper spread, walnuts, balsamic); a trio of tender and herbaceous chicken meatballs with tomato sauce ($14); and for larger appetites, there’s a generous bowl of gnocchi ($23) with walnut piperade spooned on top, plus a hit of funky Fontina, and Aleppo chile. Cardamom croissant bread pudding for dessert, done (save the strawberry tart for breakfast service).
Tonight is another lovely evening—you can follow my move and enjoy sitting at a table under the longtime wisteria vine. I’m happy to see the space back open in time for Pride (I’m going to head back to try brunch soon). And it was cute to see a vendor from the Wednesday Castro farmers’ market on Noe Street walk over to deliver some summer produce at the end of the market.
I love visiting the Castro during Pride month—the streets and bars are buzzin’. Last Saturday evening, I totally had a moment as I was driving up Market Street, watching the huge Pride flag and street banners flapping in the breeze, the pink triangle beaming like a beacon from Twin Peaks in the foggy distance. YES SF! Who knew I’d end the night partying in the green room underneath the Castro Theatre and dancing on stage with CarrieOnDisco and friends? San Frandisco is always an adventure.
The unfortunate adventure I’m currently enduring is with my (brand-new, ahem) laptop, which didn’t seem to like the latest macOS update. Yet again, I have lost hours talking to Apple support over the past few days. THE WORST. To save my sanity, I’m keeping this week’s issue short and sweet since the spinning beach ball arrives every minute and pauses my ability to write. (No, not frustrating at all.) I have even more Crapple support calls lined up, so I need to send this column off and get this laptop back in action before I throw it out the window.
Ciao for meow,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
A Legit Italian Focaccia Shop Opens in Lower Nob Hill, Serving Focaccia Panini and Pizza al Taglio
Thanks to my dear longtime friend and reader, Scott G., who tipped me off to a new sandwich and pizza shop in Lower Nob Hill, Golden Focaccia. With one look at the menu, I knew there were some real-deal Italians behind the project, and when I saw stracchino cheese in one of the sandwiches, I wondered if they were from the Veneto. On Sunday, I swung by to check it out, and met co-owner Marco Scabin, who’s originally from Vicenza, but lived in the Lido di Venezia. Bingo. That explains the bresaola (air-dried beef) as well.
Scabin told me he has a passion for focaccia—he has worked as a chef in the culinary world for 25 years, and always made his own bread. His business partner is Omar Barkache—they both met while working together at Mona Lisa restaurant in North Beach.
You’ll see a menu of 11 different focaccia sandwiches (most are around $15.50), all on housemade focaccia (Marco tells me the dough is fermented for four days: two days for the biga, and two days of cold fermentation; the wet dough has 85 percent hydration, and a mix of two flours). This isn’t the super-fluffy style of focaccia you may recall from Specialty’s back in the day (LOL)—you’ll notice the airy hydration (which melds well with the sandwich toppings), the developed flavor, and the lightly golden exterior has a crisp texture that keeps your sandwich from falling apart.
I started with the Boscaiolo (prosciutto cotto, mushrooms, stracchino, mustard sauce)—the stacked ingredients were carefully layered and well-balanced between richness and acidity. It reminded me of the style of panini I’d get from a famous spot in Padova (Dalla Zita) when I was going to the University of Padova for my weekly Dante class. 30-plus years later, and I still remember those panini.
The focaccia panino was so good I returned the next day to try the Emilia Meets Puglia, which Marco said was one of his favorites: thin slices of pistachio mortadella, stracciatella, and pistachio dressing, the picture of decadent simplicity.
What’s gonna be next? There’s a porchetta dip (although the It’s All About the Pork panino comes with porchetta, ’nduja, and roasted eggplant!). Yup, I will keep coming back.
As for the pizza, it’s Roman-style pizza al taglio on a focaccia base, and you choose which toppings to add and they heat up your slice (I saw slices of porchetta and potato in the case, sign me up). You can also order a whole pizza, and there are a couple salads, too. There are some tables inside, and a counter where you can perch and watch the street. Open 11am–8pm daily (until 8:30pm Fri–Sat). 881 Post St. at Hyde.
Esme Is Softly Opening, Bringing a French-Inspired Bistro to the Divisadero Corridor
New Openings Include the Return of Bánh Mì from the Sing Sing Coffee Shop Family and More
Fans of the bánh mì from the closed Sing Sing Coffee Shop on Hyde in the Tenderloin can now find their famed $8 đặc biệt (and four more options) at the family’s new Banh Mi A Mui in the Inner Richmond/Laurel Heights (just across the street from Mel’s Drive-In). Open daily 7:30am–6pm. 3401 Geary Blvd. at Beaumont.
Scott Morton (Momo’s) and his wife and business partner, Caitlyn, have opened Maggie and Mac’s (named after their kids) in the former Social Kitchen and Brewery in the Inner Sunset (which closed in March 2020). You can take a look at the approachable menu at this family-friendly and neighborhood space in Eater SF. 1326 9th Ave.
Upcoming Closures Include Anomaly SF, Park Tavern, Shuggie’s, DecantSF, and a Fire Temporarily Closes Che Fico
After running his pop-up, and then bootstrapping the opening of his brick-and-mortar restaurant, Anomaly SF, chef-owner Mike Lanham is closing the restaurant on June 20th. He cites in his post on Instagram: “I have some health issues I need to take care of as well as some family members I need to spend time with while I still have the opportunity.” After nine years of hustling hard to offer an ambitious Southern modern tasting menu that changed often with a tight team, here’s hoping he gets some rest and takes good care. I’m happy to see almost all of the reservations are booked until the closing night. Best wishes to the team. 2600 Sutter St.
Submitted without commentary: after taking over Park Tavern from former owner Anna Weinberg (who opened the restaurant with chef Jenn Puccio in 2011), and reopening it with chef Jonathan Waxman at the end of 2024, current owner James Nicholas announced the Washington Square restaurant is closing once again in a couple weeks. The final day of service is Sunday June 21st. 1652 Stockton St.
Well, this is a sad one to see: after bringing their color-saturated style and food waste mission and joyful energy to our dining scene, Shuggie’s owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy just announced they’re closing their Mission restaurant after four years (and numerous awards!). The duo has worked so hard to adapt to the changing times, from updating their concept from trash pies to a dinner party, with a generous happy hour, a $40 Wednesday prix-fixe menu, numerous fun events, a wine club, and so much more. Read their post to understand what contributed to the closure, which is happening on July 11th. You have a month to go show them some love. 3349 23rd St.
After dealing with countless problems (including a pandemic, shoplifting, and the general lawlessness of Folsom Street), DecantSF announced it’s closing on June 20th (you can still get a ticket for this Saturday’s Deluxe Queer pop-up dinner). Here’s my piece on the opening of this unique wine shop from Cara Patricia and Simi Grewal in the former City Beer Store (I can’t believe it was seven years ago, where does the time go?). The post mentions they’re focused on their new DECANT Napa bottle shop and bar: “We’re building something really good at 2999 Solano.” Thanks for the fun bubbles tastings and holiday events over the years—take good care, ladies. 1168 Folsom St. at 8th St.
Chef Dominique Crenn announced via Instagram the end of Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn, their midweek, 12-course, French omakase menu service with pairings. In her post, she says they’re evolving and going to expand the menu with new dishes and cocktails, while providing a more welcoming atmosphere for guests to settle in at the bar. Future collaborations are also mentioned. According to their reservations book, you can book the Le Comptoir experience Tue–Thu through June 30th.
My sister informed me yesterday that there was smoke billowing from the rooftops of Che Fico and Foghorn Taproom on Divisadero, and, unfortunately, Che Fico has suffered significant damage from a fire that reportedly started in their chimney flue—thankfully, no one was injured. Stand by for updates on their reopening; Foghorn Taproom has since reopened.
Where Are You Watching World Cup?
sponsored event
Think & Drink at UNFILTERED, July 25th–26th at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley
Join more than 60 of California’s most compelling, independent winemakers for UNFILTERED, a weekend of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. From legendary pioneers like Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon), Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron), Angela Osborne (A Tribute to Grace), Ian Brand, Craig Haarmeyer, and Joe Davis (Arcadian), to a new generation of producers like Matt Crutchfield, Samuel Louis Smith, Justin Trabue (Ward Four), Coral Wang (Maison des Plaisances), Evan Lewandowski (Ruth Lewandowski), Sabrina Tamayo (Ruby Blanca), Cole Thomas (Madson), Brent Mayeaux (Stagiaire), and more, UNFILTERED offers a rare opportunity to really connect with the people behind some of California’s most distinctive wines.
At its heart, UNFILTERED is a gathering of winemakers, artists, farmers, chefs, and curious drinkers exploring the ideas and values shaping contemporary wine culture. Throughout the weekend, guests engage directly with winemakers through tastings, conversations, and panel discussions exploring farming, food, art, climate, culture, and the evolving identity of California wine.
Taste wines rarely found outside winery mailing lists, enjoy food pairings from local chefs, and experience the rich personalities and vibrant community of our independent winemakers. UNFILTERED takes place in a relaxed, intimate setting with easy access and ample parking.
For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered
Tickets 🎟️: Day pass, $65; Weekend pass $95.
July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery: 1340 5th Street Berkeley
the lush
Big News on 22nd Street: The Make-Out Room and Latin American Club Are Up for Sale After 30 Years
I noticed some activity on the Make-Out Room’s liquor license a few months ago and wondered what was coming. Well, after 30 years, the SF Chronicle reports owner Martin Rapalski is ready to retire and is selling both the Make-Out Room and the Latin American Club. Rapalski is committed to finding the right buyer to preserve each location, but who knows how all that will shake out.
Ah, so many blurry memories at the Make-Out Room, so many great bands and DJs and parties, so many late-night drinks (famously without straws, for years), heck, I smoked my last cigarette indoors at the Make-Out Room after the ban went into effect in 1998. Are you really a San Franciscan if you haven’t been bit by the margaritas at the worn wood bar at the Latin? It’s hard to even imagine 22nd Street without the legit, laid-back Mission cool of these two spots. Thanks for all the good times. Here’s hoping these two gems go to the right hands. (You can read some more backstory in this Mission Local post.) 3225 22nd St. and 3286 22nd St.
the socialite
Join Me at San Francisco Magazine’s 25th Annual Best of the Bay Party
Whatcha doing on Saturday July 11th? I’ll be attending San Francisco magazine’s 25th Annual Best of the Bay at The Conservatory at One Sansome, and I’d love for you to join me.
This premiere event brings together the Bay Area’s top chefs and restaurants (like Dalida, A16, Boulevard, and Elena’s) and beverage partners (including Redwood Empire Whiskey and Tansy Wines) for a lively evening of exceptional food, cocktails, entertainment (from ODC Dancers and SFJAZZ), and immersive experiences.
As Best of the Bay celebrates its 25th anniversary, this year’s event will also recognize the Union Square Foundation as its official beneficiary.
VIP entry: 6pm; general admission: 7pm.
🎟️ Tickets: sfbestofthebay.splashthat.com
The Conservatory at One Sansome, 1 Sansome Street, San Francisco, CA 94104
