what’s cookin’
Howdy, hopper pals. I hope you got to enjoy some free time over the breezy holiday weekend. I decided to catch up on a lot of reading (just watch me slay those Safari tabs) and writing. A big piece I was working on all weekend is today’s jetsetter piece about Athens, a subscriber exclusive!
A longtime colleague in the food world, Shannon Gomes, recently interviewed me about Greece for her international travel podcast (Mixtape Travels) and weekly publication (The Gomes Guide), where she highlights destinations and recommendations from her fellow Gen X friends! I’m hardly an expert, but Greece continues to be one of my favorite places in the world to travel to, so it was fun to talk about my various trips there over the years. Subscribe to her newsletter so you don’t miss the upcoming feature with me, and I thought it would be the perfect time to write up some of my Athens picks to coincide with it.
I’ll be updating the Athens jetsetter post with a link to the podcast and feature, plus a Google map when I have time, so check back next week! Since the piece is so image-heavy, I’m only running a preview in today’s column—you’ll need to click through to the tablehopper site to finish reading it. (It was torture looking at 3,000 pictures of beaches and feta and sunsets—the Mediterranean is always calling meeeeeee.)
A highlight of this past weekend was attending the powerful immersive play, Compton’s Cafeteria Riot (written by Collette LeGrande, Donna Personna, and Mark Nassar; directed by Ezra Reaves; produced by the Tenderloin Museum). It’s an inspired recreation of what happened that fateful night in a Tenderloin cafeteria in 1966, a place where transgender women and queens and queers would gather and find community over cups of coffee at Turk and Taylor.
What’s unique about this performance is that you’re seated in a retro diner (you’ll sit down to an evening breakfast of pancakes, sausage, and decaf coffee at a table or the counter) and interact with the cast while you watch the theatrical experience. What unfolds is a dramatization of one of the first acts of organized LGBTQIA+ resistance against police harassment in the United States, which happened three years before Stonewall in New York. (Shoutout to Susan Stryker for uncovering this history in her must-watch 2005 documentary, Screaming Queens: The Riot at Compton’s Cafeteria.) The play is like going back in time and witnessing live history, and with trans and queer rights currently under attack, this experience couldn’t be more relevant and important. Get your ticket and invite your friends—it’s running on Fridays and Saturdays through July (they also just announced a Sunday matinee on June 22nd!). Go see this for PRIDE month! (I will be posting more on @tablehopper on Instagram.)
A few tips: swing by the Rosebud Gallery next door (839 Larkin St.) before the performance to see their latest show from queer artists...
It must have been my unofficial queer SF history weekend, because on Saturday, I finally took one of the Unspeakable Vice walking tours from Shawn Sprockett: Valley of the Queens: Tenderloin and Polk Street. He has created such a vibrant, well-researched, and fascinating tour format, and I learned so much about all the TL and Polk Gulch queer bars (can you believe there used to be 158, and now we just have two?), cool neighborhood history, and more. Sprockett’s passion for sharing queer SF stories is inspiring—and whether you’re queer or not, you will be rapt with the rich history. And: each tour ends with a cocktail, cheers to that. I’m taking his Fire & Vice: North Beach Walking Tour next! Rock on, Shawn! Thank you for the vivid history lesson!
With all the current hideousness happening, it’s important to look to the past and be reminded of the resistance and rebellion and courage of those who came before us, who bravely fought for the freedom to be who they are, to be seen and heard, respected, equal, safe, and to exist. The fight continues.
In solidarity and love,
~Marcia
the jettsetter
Athens, Greece: Some of My Favorite Food, Wine, and History Experiences
To coincide with my podcast interview and upcoming feature on The Gomes Guide about traveling in Greece, I wanted to share this cheat sheet about Athens, a fantastic city I have been fortunate to visit for a few times over the past six years.
I dig the city’s age and edge—you’ll see some of the most incredible street art and graffiti. I had so many sweet connections and fun moments with bartenders, servers, and shopkeepers—practice speaking Greek as much as possible, it goes a long way in making connections.
the chatterbox
Opening Soon in June
A Quick Look Inside Regalito El Mil Amores, Now Open Off of Valencia Street
Last Friday afternoon, I swung by the new Regalito El Mil Amores to get a tour from Andrea Becerra and see the changes and updates at her new second restaurant, which just soft-opened on Monday May 26th (last week, I ran a preview of the menu). You can’t miss the hot pink door, just like the one at El Mil Amores. Lucky me, I also got to meet her darling eight-month-old daughter, Romina, as well as her husband, her brother, and her faithful chef, Chucky (Francisco Castro)!
The open kitchen was gleaming and ready to go, and the space was repainted and feels a lot lighter inside. The shimmering flooring has flecks of gold in it to pay homage to the golden age of Mexican cinema—her first restaurant, El Mil Amores, took its name from a 1950’s film (Becerra tells me the black-and-white woven tablecloths her mother brought from Mexico are a visual reference to black-and-white movies).
The patio is partially enclosed, with a retractable roof and a back window that can be raised or lowered depending upon the weather (Becerra says they will be replanting the garden area with flowers soon). The long communal table is still there, and it’s going to be the perfect private party room. The grand opening is this Friday May 30th. Open daily 11am–9pm. 3481 18th St. at Valencia.
The Mission’s Latest Rooftop Bar, Cubita, Takes Over the Former El Techo
Comebacks and Closures
After temporarily closing from a fire back in April, Omakase Restaurant Group’s Niku Steakhouse in the Design District is back from the ashes and reopening this Friday May 30th (it appears they raised just over $12k in their GoFundMe). 61 Division St.
The Chronicle reported the Tipsy Pig pub (2231 Chestnut St.) in the Marina from Nate Valentine, Stryker Scales, and executive chef Sam Josi has closed after 16 years. The team, along with Jamal Blake-Williams, are close to opening Bar Darling in the nearby and former Squat & Gobble space (2263 Chestnut St.), and are targeting June 3rd.
Over in the East Bay, the new publication Berkeley Eats (from a longtime friend and fellow writer, you should subscribe!) was first to report: “beloved comfort-food breakfast and brunch institution Rick & Ann’s has announced on its website that its last day will be august 3, 2025, after 36 years.” 2922 Domingo Ave., Berkeley.
Rest in Piazzolla, Rob Reich
“Transcendent Descent” - Rob Reich.
Zuni regulars are reeling over the unexpected and tragic death of the preternaturally talented musician and composer Rob Reich, who provided a magical soundtrack from his accordion and at the piano there for years. He was well-known from playing at venues all over town, from years at Amnesia with the band Gaucho, to 20th Century Cafe, to Blondies, as well as Circus Bella, the SF Symphony, and more. There is a big part of San Francisco that will be sadly quiet without him. Deep condolences to his family and partner and vast community of everyone touched by his musical gifts. He was 47 years far too young. [Via SF Chronicle and Mission Local] 🕊️
the socialite
Juneteenth on the Waterfront Is Back on June 7th!
by Savannah Leone Bundy
On Saturday June 7th, Juneteenth on the Waterfront will make its fifth appearance at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Hosted by Foodwise (in partnership with La Cocina, In The Black, Mandela Partners, Oakland Bloom, and En2action’s Ujamaa Kitchen), the free community event is a chance to support local Black-owned food and craft businesses, and celebrate Juneteenth early. In addition to live cooking demos from Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement and chef Sarah Germany, you’ll be able to try dishes (available for purchase) from over 20 vendors, like Lil’ Alijo, Maison Porcella, Josephine Southern Cuisine, Remy Creations, and Maldoni’s.
Saturday June 7th, 9am–2pm. 1 Ferry Building at Embarcadero.
Cheese Plus Is Celebrating 20 Years with an Artisan Food Festival Block Party
Congrats to Ray Bair, owner of Cheese Plus, which is celebrating 20 years on Polk Street! Cheese Plus not only has one of the top cheese selections in town, but I love their extensive and well-selected pantry, and they make tasty, fresh sandwiches named after SF neighborhoods (one rotating sandwich is 20 percent off every day from now through the day of the party).
Next Saturday June 7th, Cheese Plus is hosting a big Artisan Food Festival Block Party to celebrate! There will tasting tables from Bay Area food artisans, including cheese, chocolate, charcuterie, olive oil, and more, and it’s free! (Get your ticket here.)
There will also be brews from Standard Deviant, Cellarmaker, Olfactory, and Wondrous, with live music and comedy. Check out the craft merchant corner, with live screen printing by Babylon Burning, merchant popups from Out of Sight Records, Moody Goose Vintage, Tura Sugden Jeweler, Topo Designs, Harris’ Steak House, Studio Galley, Bird School of Music, Kandk Contemporary, and more! 11am–4pm. 2001 Polk St. at Pacific.
the lush
Raise Your Glass to Some Uplifting Beer and Brewery News
I was happy to receive an update from longtime SF brewer and restaurateur Dave McLean (co-founder Admiral Maltings, former founder of Magnolia Brewing and The Alembic), who has a new project, Hidden Splendor, which will launch as a beer brand this summer with classic beer styles (British ales, continental lagers, and clear IPAs)—look for the brews on draft at bars, restaurants, and at special events. Collaboration beers and some new twists are also in the works.
This fall, Hidden Splendor will open as a restaurant/pub in San Rafael. McLean mentions: “an eclectic, casual menu inspired by global beer culture, NorCal agriculture, and my East Coast roots; a pretty solid cocktail program; a small but thoughtful local wine list; low and no alcohol drinking options; quality sound and obsessively curated music; and live music!” Sign up for Hidden Splendor's email newsletter (hiddensplendor.beer), and follow along on Instagram for updates. Cheers, Dave! 🍻
