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Apr 2, 2012 16 min read

April 3, 2012 - This week's tablehopper: hop hop hop.

April  3, 2012 - This week's tablehopper: hop hop hop.
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This week's tablehopper: hop hop hop.                    

The beautiful table at the Meatpaper bollito misto supper on Sunday. Photo: ©

Whoa, what a weekend. Friday night I got to celebrate a dear friend’s birthday while at the ForageSF Basque dinner and fundraiser; Saturday was an epic brunch at Bar Tartine (have you had the blood sausage yet?), followed by Whiskies of the World (where I thoroughly enjoyed more than one taste of my new obsession: Breaking & Entering bourbon by St. George Spirits—it’s like bananas Foster in a glass), and then a late-night prime rib dinner at Original Joe’s (and a much-needed Averna nightcap/digestif at Gino & Carlo’s).

Sunday was a restorative brunch at Park Tavern—whoever came up with the Boozy Smoothie there (banana, Bulleit bourbon, espresso) is a genius and I want to be friends with them. And the pièce de résistance was a spectacular bollito misto dinner on Sunday night at The Perish Trust—a group of us were invited for supper and to be a part of a photoshoot for an upcoming feature in Meatpaper. I can’t wait to see the piece in the next issue. The food, the company, the atmosphere—it made me so grateful to live in San Francisco (and I was still reeling from the creativity of the OPENharvest event last Thursday). Yeah, this city does “it” like none other.

So, I have a few upcoming events for your radar. This Thursday is Gastronomy night for the Exploratorium’s After Dark program, and FYI, tickets are selling quickly for my upcoming tablehopper Tasting at Café des Amis: The Wines of the Languedoc—tickets are limited and we are more than halfway sold, so if you’re interested, get yours now! One more thing: Pebble Beach Food & Wine is next week, and there are still some tickets remaining for the Grand Tastings (and a few other stellar events), so check it out and maybe I’ll see you down there. Let’s par-tay.

This Sunday I’ll be heading down to San Mateo to celebrate Easter with my family—for those of you who don’t have a father preparing baby goat like mine is (trust me, this used to traumatize me as a child), you can find plenty of Easter and Passover events on tablehopper.

I also took a trip down memory lane today (well, the 280, to be exact) for You Gotta Eat This on KGO Radio, talking about my favorite Italian deli sandwich of all time, the Godfather at Woodside Delicatessen—you can listen here.

Now excuse me while I go get some fresh air—am loving today’s springy weather.

Marcia Gagliardi

the chatterbox

Gossip & News (the word on the street)

Chef Changes at Chez Panisse: Jean-Pierre Moullé Is Retiring, Cal Peternell Taking His Place


Photo from Chez Panisse on Facebook.

I have been sitting on this news for a couple months, and of course I get this release minutes after my column posts. Today CHEZ PANISSE officially announces chef Jean-Pierre Moullé is retiring from his position. In a press release from Chez Panisse, Alice Waters writes, “Jean-Pierre will of course remain a vital member of the Famille Panisse. He will oversee special events and return to the restaurant from time to time to cook and to continue the marvelous tradition of the Chez Panisse teaching kitchen. Over the last year he has been invaluable in bringing along his successors, Jerome Waag and Cal Peternell who will be sharing the downstairs chef position for the next year, Jerome for summer 2012 and Cal for winter 2012. Beth Wells will continue as Café co-chef and Nathan Alderson will join her in that role.” Further details/clarification: Cal is going to be moving from upstairs to downstairs, and Jerome Waag officially begins his new position (previously held by David Tanis) on May 1st.

Chez Panisse            - 1517 Shattuck Ave. Berkeley - 510-548-5525

Coming Soon from Deli Board: 1058hoagie


Hubba, a hoagie! Photo from 1058hoagie.

The very sick mind behind DELI BOARD, Adam Mesnick, is launching 1058HOAGIE later this month (he’s targeting mid-April). Like the original Deli Board, you’ll be able to pick up a hoagie from the Deli Board back door a couple nights a week, and they will also be delivering hoagies in the SoMa area via bike messenger. Hoagies will be served cold and on sesame seed rolls for about $10 for a 12-inch sandwich. Examples include the #1 (capicola, mortadella, Genoa salami, provolone, seasoned onions, cherry peppers, shredduce [thinly shredded lettuce], shhh sauce [house pepper/garlic sauce], salt and pepper, oil and vinegar); the #2 (roast beef, provolone, seasoned onions, horsey sauce, shredduce, s&p, o&v); and the #5 (New York smoked salmon, green onion cream cheese, sprouts, seasoned onions, shredduce, capers).

Service is probably going to coincide with Giants night games. You can follow 1058hoagie on Twitter and Facebook for updates on the schedule; (website coming soon). 1058 Folsom St. at 7th St., 415-552-7687.

Pop-Ups Galore This Week (and Moving Forward)!


Orders at Truck Stop Cafe; photo from Facebook.

All kinds of pop-ups this month, starting this Wednesday April 4th: Jake Godby of Humphry Slocombe is back at Truck for TRUCK STOP CAFE. Here’s a peek at the menu, which includes sticky hominy fritters with “Hidden Valley” yogurt ($7), duck fat Chex mix ($5), and a fried chicken sandwich ($10) with a biscuit and pimento cheese slaw. There are also some desserts, like a chocolate tart with chestnut caramel and olive oil ice cream ($8). 6pm-10pm. 1900 Folsom St. at 15th St.

Also this Wednesday, Shotwell’s Bar in the Mission will be hosting SALUMERIA, the upcoming project from the flour + water crew. Swing by from 6pm-9pm for ricotta-stuffed cherry peppers with boquerones ($5), cheese and cracker plate ($10), ballotine sandwich with peperoncini and green garlic aioli ($10), and Almanac Beer’s Farmhouse Pale Ale ($5). 3349 20th St. at Shotwell.

On Friday April 6th, swing by Galette 88 for dinner (at either 6pm or 8pm) from chef Lauren Kiino and her IL CANE ROSSO team. The four-course springtime dinner will include an amuse of goat cheese and black pepper gougère, followed by a starter of salt cod and soft egg fritter with a Zuckerman Farm asparagus and walnut salad with green garlic aioli. Entrée options are spring lamb with braised artichokes and potatoes with black olive tapenade, or vegetarian wild nettle and mushroom crêpes with pimentón and crescenza cheese. Dessert will be almond pavlova with vanilla-poached rhubarb and Meyer lemon cream. $40; wine pairings for $20. RSVP via email; please include number of guests, desired seating time, and contact info. 88 Hardie Pl., off Kearny, between Bush and Sutter.

Mark your calendar for two special HAPA RAMEN pop-ups at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight on Tuesday April 10th and April 24th. But instead of ramen, expect preview menu items for Richie Nakano’s upcoming brick-and-mortar restaurant, HAPA, on Fillmore Street. 6pm-10pm.

And on Saturday April 14th, the GRILLEDCHEEZGUY is hosting a pop-up dinner at the Old Skool Cafe in Bayview to celebrate Grilled Cheese Month, and as preparation for this year’s Grilled Cheese Invitational. Reservations and more details here. Mendell Plaza, 1429 Mendell St. (3rd St. and Oakdale/Palou).

SFoodie mentions HAYAHON, a “roving izakaya” serving ramen, yakitori, small plates, and a little bit of Hawaiian flair. Partners in the venture are Mark Hayashida (Los Angeles Ritz-Carlton, the sushi bar at the San Jose branch of Blowfish, Google, Skool) and Johnny Honda (Google). On Tuesdays, you can find them at Cafe Royale (800 Post St. at Leavenworth), and Thursday through Saturday nights at SPACE 1582, formerly Mercury Lounge, at 1582 Folsom St. at 12th St.

Chef Ravi Kapur’s LIHOLIHO YACHT CLUB is back at Citizen’s Band with a new menu on Monday April 9th, 16th, and 23rd. Make reservations on OpenTable via Citizen’s Band’s website.

Pastry Chef Shuffle: Lisa Lu Leaves Jardinière for Central Kitchen

After noticing this help wanted ad on Craigslist, I figured out the pastry chef of JARDINIÈRE, Lisa Lu, has departed. (Her departure has been confirmed, although her replacement has not been hired yet.)

Through the grapevine, I learned she is going to work with Thomas McNaughton (flour + water, Central Kitchen)—she is joining the team as the pastry chef for the upcoming CENTRAL KITCHEN.

Jardinière            - 300 Grove St. San Francisco - 415-861-5555

Tidbits: Chai-Yo Gets Refreshed, a Third Enjoy Vegetarian Is Coming, Pastores Closes


Chai-Yo’s new interior. Photo by Rebecca Kinney. ©

Russian Hill residents may notice a new look for the Thai CHAI-YO on Polk: there’s a new sign, upholstery, tabletops, and a second section is being expanded—it will go from about 8 or 10 seats to 20. 1331 Polk St. at Pine, 415-771-2562.

ENJOY VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT is going to be opening a third location sometime this month in the former Morph space in the Richmond. 5344 Geary Blvd. at 17th Ave.

I was very sad to learn from a tablehopper reader that PASTORES in Bernal, known for Irma’s amazing chilaquiles, is now closed. There is reportedly a change of ownership sign in the window, and the new owners are opening “The Cave Grill.” If anyone knows where Irma can be found, please let me know! 3486 Mission St. at Cortland, 415-642-5385.

Oakland Updates: Charlie Hallowell's World, Marzano Expands, and Brundo Culinary Studio


Boot and Shoe Service exterior; photo from Facebook.

Chef-owner Charlie Hallowell (Pizzaiolo, Boot and Shoe Service) is never one to sit still. Diablo Dish brings news of another Hallowell Oakland project, “a bar and grill concept, [that] will be right across the street from the recently expanded Boot & Shoe in the former home of the Lounge Nail Spa and Boutique at 3307 Grand Avenue.” It sounds like the heart of the kitchen will be a wood-burning grill, and “the space will also serve as the new HQ for the overall charcuterie program,” plus cocktails, and a late-night scene until a (hopeful) last call at 2am. Sounds pretty nascent, and it could be a year off.

The Inside Scoop chimes in with a few more details: it’s also going to be a full-service butcher shop, with the meats cooked on a grill and plancha, plus a raw bar. A potential name is also being tossed around: PENROSE AND SONS FINE MEATS AND SPIRITS (Hallowell’s grandfather’s name was Penrose). 3307 Grand Ave. at Elwood, Oakland.

The Scoop mentions BOOT AND SHOE SERVICE is now serving weekday lunch Tue-Fri from 11am-2pm, plus weekend brunch from 10am-2pm. Most of the pizzas and starters on the dinner menu are available, plus some sandwiches.

And fans of MARZANO will be happy to learn they are expanding into the old hardware store that was adjacent to the restaurant on Park Boulevard. It will just about double their dining room space and seating. If all goes well, they should open on Wednesday April 18th, and are planning to have a little celebration that day. 4214 Park Blvd. at Glenfield, Oakland, 510-531-4500.

Interested in taking some Ethiopian cooking classes? Chowhound reports Fetlework Tefferi of Café Colluci and Brundo (an Ethiopian market and spice shop) is offering classes (PDF) in spice blending, coffee roasting, and Ethiopian cooking.

Boot and Shoe Service            - 3308 Grand Ave. Oakland - 510-763-2668

Pizzalina Coming to San Anselmo; Tsukiji in Mill Valley Closes


Louise Franz; photo from Pizzalina blog.

Hopefully opening this fall in San Anselmo will be PIZZALINA, a Neapolitan-style pizzeria (with a local, organic, and sustainable focus) and wine bar from owner Louise Franz. She has trained and is certified as a pizzaiolo with the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, and has been working for the last year in pizzerias such as Picco and Rosso.

Pizzas will be made from naturally yeasted dough with a four-day proofing method, hand-pulled mozzarella, and family-made salumi, and cooked in a Mugnaini wood-fired oven. Other offerings on the seasonal menu will include antipasti, salads, soup, market main courses of the day, pastas (like maccheroni alla chitarra with lamb ragu), and Straus soft-serve ice cream with homemade toppings for dessert. Ex-husband and restaurateur Mark Franz is lending his expertise, and her brother Sean Crowley (formerly AQUA, and now sales director for Paradigm) is putting together the wine program, with an emphasis on California, Marin, and Italian wines. There will be a substantial wine on tap program featuring some unusual varietals and specialty blends, and local beers on tap and in the bottle.

The former Round Table Pizza at Red Hill Shopping Center will be converted by William Craig Architect, George Federighi Kitchen Design, and Josh Klein Builders. There will be 48 seats inside, and 20 seats outside. The atmosphere will be rustic-casual, with an open kitchen. They hope to get through the permit process in a couple months, and are aiming for a mid-August/September opening. 914 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. at Shaw Dr., San Anselmo.

A tablehopper reader let me know his beloved TSUKIJI is closed; the owners were reportedly evicted. 24 Sunnyside Ave. at Parkwood St., Mill Valley.

Get Your Tickets Fast: David Chang Comes to SF on July 17th


David Chang; photo: ©

Did you get your ticket yet? Last week I mentioned on Twitter that chef David Chang (Momofuku empire leader, Lucky Peach) will be in town for a City Arts & Lectures conversation with Adam Savage (host of Mythbusters). The event is Tuesday July 17th at the Herbst Theatre. Tickets are going quickly, so get yours now. 8pm. $22-$27.

               Tuesday Jul 17, 2012 8pm $22–$27 more info

Specials and Ways to Save During Tax Time


Americano photo by Cesar Rubio.

Nothing quite like going over your spending for the year to make you want to rein things in. Or maybe you’re looking down the barrel of a big, fat tax payment. Fortunately a few places around town have some offers this month to help you pinch a few pennies:

KULETO’S in Union Square is celebrating 25 years in business, and to celebrate is offering lunch customers 25% off their total bill this spring. Swing by for some of chef Robert Helstrom’s salumi and handmade pastas from now until April 30th.

LE P’TIT LAURENT in Glen Park is offering a special three-course prix-fixe dinner menu for $20.12, available Sunday through Thursday through April 15th. 699 Chenery St. at Diamond, 415-334-3235.

AMERICANO at Hotel Vitale is offering dining guests half-off bottles of wine Monday through Friday during lunch (11:30am-2:30pm) and dinner (5:30pm-10pm). The offer is available through April 15th.

Don’t forget you can get half-off on all bottles of wine on Tuesday nights at CAFÉ DES AMIS, and now LUELLA in Russian Hill is offering the same deal.

Also on Russian Hill, this Wednesday April 4th, WILLIAM CROSS WINE MERCHANTS is hosting a tasting from 6pm-9pm called Tax Relief Wines. The six wines that will be poured are under $25 and scored over 90 points from the Wine Advocate or Wine Spectator. Flight is $15.

William Cross Wine Merchants            - 2253 Polk St. San Francisco - 415-346-1314

the lush

Bar News & Reviews (put it on my tab)

Cervecería de MateVeza Opens on Dolores Park


The back counter and bar. Photo courtesy of Cervecería de MateVeza.


Mmmmm, beer. Photo courtesy of Cervecería de MateVeza.

Scheduled to open this Saturday is CERVECERÍA DE MATEVEZA, flanking Dolores Park. As previously mentioned in tablehopper, this 20-seat restaurant and small brewery will serve its line of organic craft beers brewed with yerba mate (owner Jim Woods will be brewing at the restaurant on a small 20-gallon copper system), along with some other local beers on tap and in bottles, plus warm and locally made empanadas by El Porteño, and charcuterie and alfajores. Joining Woods will be beer-tender Matt Coelho (City Beer, Church Key, Black Horse). Growlers and select bottles of guest beer will be available for purchase to go.

The opening beer lineup includes: MateVeza Yerba Mate IPA, MateVeza Black Lager, MateVeza and Mill Valley Beerworks Morpho Herbal Ale, Marin Brewing Chocolate Airporter, Moonlight Bombay by Boat IPA, Mill Valley Beerworks Kolsch, and Magnolia Saison de Lily. Hours are Tue-Sun 12pm-10pm. 3801 18th St. at Church, 415-273-9295.

Linden Street Brewery Dinner at BayWolf on April 9th


Photo from Facebook.

Coming up on Monday April 9th, BAYWOLF in Oakland is hosting Linden Street Brewery for a four-course tasting dinner. Adam Lamoreaux will be pouring three of his local Oakland lagers and premiering a Belgian-style farmhouse Saison ale with one of the courses. Peek at the wicked-looking menu here. $45; 6:30pm. 3853 Piedmont Ave. at Rio Vista, Oakland, 510-655-6004.

the socialite

Shindigs, Feasts, & Festivals (let's party)

A Few April Benefits and Fundraiser Events for Your Consideration


Ice cream toppings at Wok on the Wild Side; photo from CCSF website.

Event Info

Sunday Apr 15, 2012 – Friday Apr 27, 2012

You have lots of events to choose from this month if you want to eat well and do good at the same time, which is never a bad combination.

Rose Pistola is providing the provisions at North Beach Citizens’ eleventh annual spring dinner and fundraising event on Sunday April 15th—join them for an ITALIAN DINNER CELEBRATION at 6pm in the basement of Saints Peter and Paul Church. Tickets start at $150/adult and $75/child under 13. They’re also looking for volunteers from the industry—please email Lisa if you’re interested.

Celebrate the streets of San Francisco and raise some much-needed funds for City College of San Francisco’s Culinary Arts program at their annual WOK ON THE WILD SIDE fundraiser. Set aside Friday April 20th, 5:30pm-8:30pm, for a fun take on the cuisines of San Francisco’s neighborhoods with the students and chef instructors: Korean faves from Clement Street, Italian numbers from North Beach, chocolate à la Ghirardelli Square, and more, plus wine to wet your gastronomic whistle. Ed Vaughn will be the official auctioneer, with both live and silent auctions (look for wines, special meals, hotel packages with dinner, and more). Then take home a goodie bag with candies and a housemade spice mix. Tickets start at $75. CCSF Ocean Campus, Statler Wing, 50 Phelan Ave. at Ocean, 415-239-3152.

Support another worthy public culinary program in the East Bay on Sunday April 15th, when Contra Costa College’s Culinary Arts Management Department hosts their fifth annual FOOD AND WINE GALA. Expect a casual affair with over fifty local restaurants and wineries, chefs, artisan chocolates, a designer cake walk, gourmet mystery bags, and live and silent auctions. Tickets are $35 in advance, $40 at the door, and include a souvenir wine glass. 11am-2:30pm. Contra Costa Campus, Athletics Annex, 2600 Mission Bell Dr., San Pablo, 510-235-7800 ext. 4409.

For another chance to give back in the East Bay, check out FIVE STAR NIGHT, the 25th annual fundraiser for Alameda County Meals On Wheels. The Champagne reception and four-course dinner starts at 6pm on Friday April 27th and includes a dessert buffet. Narsai David will emcee the meal, prepared by 14 Bay Area chefs, including Louis LeGassic of BayWolf, Rick Hackett of Bocanova, Jeff Dodge of La Farine, and Yo Matsuzaki of Ozumo. The special guest will be Julie Haener of KTVU. Alameda County Meals on Wheels provides warm meals for thousands of homebound seniors. $250. Scottish Rite Center, 1547 Lakeside Dr. at 14th St., Oakland, 510-777-9560.

Two Events That Help Women


Interior of Lung Shan/Mission Chinese Food. Photo: ©

Event Info

Saturday Apr 14, 2012 – Wednesday Apr 18, 2012

On Saturday April 14th from 4:30pm-6pm, join MISSION CHINESE FOOD as they continue their charitable work with a benefit dinner for San Francisco’s Asian Women’s Shelter, a nonprofit providing culturally-sensitive services and programs for survivors of domestic abuse. While you’re enjoying eight inventive, family-style courses with a glass of wine, all the proceeds of your $50 ticket will be going to the nonprofit. With only 40 seats, you’ll wanna get your tix online now.

You’ll have another opportunity to support a women’s nonprofit on Wednesday April 18th when Parties That Cook hosts their third annual COOKING UP SUCCESS fundraiser for Women’s Initiative for Self Employment. This upbeat event includes an interactive cooking demo, then guests get hands-on themselves, all while sipping on wine from Banshee Wines. The night’s menu includes artichoke crostini, panko-crusted shrimp with tamarind sauce, and Mexican chocolate fudge brownies. It’s also a chance to meet Women’s Initiative graduates and shop a marketplace featuring goods from the grads. The Women’s Initiative provides small business training to low-income women so they can start businesses and become economically self-sufficient. Tickets are $95 ($85 of the ticket is tax-deductible). 5:45pm-9pm. The Ferry Building at Embarcadero.

the sugar mama

Giveaways (get some)

(Sponsored): Spring Has Sprung


It’s here. Brunch season. Easter … Mother’s Day … graduation celebrations … June weddings … what’ll be on your menu?

Puff Pastry at Brunch: 10 sweet and savory recipes by Katherine Martinelli will add wow to this meant-to-be-lingered-over meal. Try Katherine’s Breakfast Galette with Scrambled Eggs, Crème Fraîche, and Chives; Maple-Cheddar Pinwheels; Baked Egg Cups with Prosciutto and Cheddar; Strawberry-Rhubarb Turnovers, and more.

Puff Pastry at Brunch is published by Hang Time Press, a new-media publishing company with a focus on mini ecookbooks. Its spring catalog features five new releases, all filled with irresistible spring and summer recipes.

And, lucky tablehopper readers, Puff Pastry at Brunch is yours for free to download to your iPad or Kindle courtesy of Hang Time Press. Between now and the end of the day on Sunday April 8th, follow this link to download Puff Pastry at Brunch.

the starlet

Star Sightings in Restaurants (no photos please)

A High Time at Hog Island Oyster Company

Kathleen Turner, in town performing in the play High at the Curran Theater, was spotted dining at Hog Island Oyster Company in the Ferry Building. Grub Street says she was there several times, once enjoying a platter of oysters while at the bar (atta girl).

Joe, Can You Pass Me the Taramosalata?

A reader writes in with a Joe Montana sighting at Kokkari: “[He] was at Kokkari with wife and another young couple last Thursday night. He was grinning ear to ear when they carried the lamb on the spit past his table. They started the dinner off with Cosmos, and then I forgot to do a walk by and see what they ordered.”

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