what’s cookin’
Hi, gang! Your hopper is back in action. (I really needed last week off, let me tell you.) After years of doing SF PRIDE, I have figured out that I shouldn’t try to write a column the day after all that partying. (Know thyself!) It was such an uplifting weekend, starting with the Trans March rally at Dolores Park—take a look at my pics and videos here (although boo on SF for not flying the trans flag at this year’s Pride flag–raising ceremony at City Hall, WTF). On Saturday, it was time to boogie with sis and friends at the always colorful Pink Block day party. Sunday was the 21st annual Juanita MORE! Pride Party, which was a banquet of dear friends and laughs and lewks! And: the hawtest dance moves! AND: the party raised over $130k for the Transgender Law Center, which is magnificent! Bravissima, Juanita! 👏
Thank you to everyone for showed up so beautifully and loudly and lovingly, making it such a joyous and strong and connected Pride—it really lifted my heart to renew bonds with our queer community. No one does Pride like SF, and it was important to shine our ROYGBIV resistance on full-blast.
Of course, I ended up catching a summer cold with all that hocializing (at least it wasn’t La Puta Rona!), so I spent the Fourth of July weekend home with Fortuna, and watched a bunch of documentaries (my favorite), while making chicken rice soup and sleeping in. It was actually good to have an excuse to power down. I hope many of you did the same and had a good break (or found some sun somewhere).
If you’re looking for some distractions (um, yes), here’s what I watched and dug: I finally powered through “The Studio” (Kathryn Hahn slayed, I fricking adore her—definitely consume some edibles before watching this series if you haven’t watched it yet); I loved learning more about...
I wrote about this in my column yesterday (if you became a supporting subscriber, you’d receive my newsletter on Tuesdays): did you see the post by @katfoodsf about the baseball cap she spotted behind the counter at Swan Oyster Depot that says 45 and 47? Well, how about that? Ugh. As I commented on her Reel: “So not surprising. I stopped going after the racist “dim sum” incident (I even interviewed them about it and that was their swan song for me). Maybe people will finally open their eyes about this ‘beloved’ SF classic. Hard pass.” Swan made a choice to display that cap, and now it’s another opportunity for you to make a choice about patronizing their business, or not.
Before diving into this week’s issue, which has a bunch of catch-up news for you (thanks to intern Olivia Casellini for all her help today!), I wanted to end my intro letter on an inspiring note and make sure you saw this amazing obituary about Paulette Fono, the restaurateur behind the Magic Pan. Anyone who has lived in the Bay Area for more than 50 years should have fond memories of this unique business that grew into chain of restaurants. Fono was so innovative and way ahead of her time. Rest in crêpes. 🙏
Take good care,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Since You Won’t Hear It Anywhere Else: Some Big News for Anna Weinberg
As you know, I took a week off from writing my newsletter, and now that I’m back, I’m surprised to see that no one has written about the latest on the widely covered lawsuit filed against Anna Weinberg (of Tosca Café and Leo’s Oyster Bar) by David Stanton, her former business partner who was suing her for defaulting on $800,000 related to their jointly owned business and real property separation agreements.
At a hearing on June 13th, 2025, a judge denied Stanton’s request for summary judgment, and Stanton didn’t contest the judge’s ruling. The court set a new trial date for September 26th, 2025, and should Stanton choose to proceed with a trial, the court has transferred the case to Department 501 (the department that handles all cases related to real property transfer and rental disputes), consistent with evidence presented that any unpaid debt in question relates to their real property separation agreement, and not the business separation agreement, which Weinberg maintains was paid in full by April 2023. Importantly, court documents revealed Stanton dismissed her business interests as collateral back in August 2023.
To clarify, Stanton and Weinberg signed two distinct and separate agreements in August 2021. One was a real property purchase agreement (related to their jointly owned Sonoma house), the second was a business purchase agreement (for Stanton’s interests in the management companies for Tosca and Park Tavern).
You may recall that back in December 2023, the San Francisco Business Times published an article stating an $800,000 default judgment against Weinberg was awarded to Stanton. According to that story, Stanton’s lawsuit claimed Weinberg defaulted on the contract to acquire his Park Tavern and Tosca interests, failing to pay over $800k. That article (and the echo chamber of news stories that followed) conjectured that the future of Weinberg’s trio of restaurants (Tosca, Park Tavern, and Leo’s Oyster Bar) was “up in the air” and intimated Stanton would likely take ownership and control of entities that she had pledged as security.
Just over a month later, when Weinberg’s request to set aside the default judgement was granted, no one updated their original stories, letting the narrative stand that she could lose her restaurants at any time. And then, the SF Business Times ran another hit piece in March 2024, stating that Weinberg had “narrowly staved off eviction — at least for now” from her FiDi restaurant, Leo’s Oyster Bar, after she had already come to a settlement with her landlord. That article managed to set off another flurry of speculative and harmful local stories that Leo’s was in danger of closing, resulting in more event cancellations and staff departures.
I was already tired of the negative narrative and damaging stories (Is Weinberg going to lose Tosca? Leo’s is on the brink of closing!), especially in light of how the restaurant industry was continuing to struggle to recover from the pandemic, so I wrote a piece (Restaurateur Anna Weinberg Isn’t Going Down Without a Fight) in March 2023. I was the first to report how Weinberg won the motion to set aside Stanton’s $800k default judgment against her, and I wonder if I would have been the only one to do so.
It’s clear that some of our local media outlets are still committed to monitoring court documents and trawling through business records to write damaging clickbait pieces about Weinberg’s restaurants, and yet, when there’s big news in her favor (more than two weeks ago), I only hear crickets.
There’s more to write about all of this, and Weinberg has some comments to share with me, but I have a bunch of catch-up news to cover here first, so, I’ll have more for you soon.
New Digs for SF Restaurants, and Chef Seth Stowaway’s New Dining Club
In March, I wrote about the impending move of the An family’s Crustacean from Polk Street (since 1991!) to their swanky new FiDi location (complete with their House of AN Secret Kitchen), and they have set a date of July 18th for the opening. You can read my earlier piece for details; I’ll chime back in with more after an in-person visit in late July. Lunch hours will be Tue–Thu 11:30am–3pm and dinner is Sun–Thu 5pm–9pm and Fri–Sat 5pm–9:30pm. 195 Pine St. at Battery.
After retaining both of their Michelin stars at the recent 2025 awards event, and gaining a green star, the 15-year-old Sons & Daughters is moving into the former Osito in the Mission in the fall of this year (first reported by Eater SF). Chef Harrison Cheney (who also won the Michelin Young Chef award in 2023) and his team are excited to expand and evolve their New Nordic style at the new location. Their Union Square location will remain open until it’s time to flip the switch. 2875 18th St. at Florida.
Meanwhile, Osito’s chef Seth Stowaway has launched a new series of intimate preview dinners in anticipation of his next restaurant. Here’s more on his new dining club: “Each dinner offers a front-row seat into Seth’s evolving culinary vision hosted at unique locations in and around San Francisco and limited to just ten guests per night. Become a Dining Club member and get exclusive access to some of the most personal, soulful meals Seth has ever created. This is a monthly membership that ends with the final installment in December 2025.”
Oh, and a quick follow-up to my earlier scoop in May about an upcoming project from Rupert and Carrie Blease (of the recently closed Lord Stanley), who are partnering with Tommy Halvorson of The Fire Society on a new fine dining restaurant in the former Serpentine: they have released the name will be Wolfsbane. Stand by for future updates. 2495 3rd St. at 22nd St.
Breadbelly Opens Its Second Location at Pier 70 in Dogpatch
By Olivia Casellini
Pier 70’s historic Building 12 is now home to the second location of the Asian American bakery phenomenon, Breadbelly. Co-owners Clement Hsu, James Wong, and Katherine Campecino-Wong met while working at Atelier Crenn before opening their permanent storefront on Clement Street in the Richmond district in 2018.
Their new—and much larger—space features many of their beloved creations, like their kaya toast (milk bread topped with bright green coconut-pandan jam), their standout breakfast sandwich (which features fermented pepper paste and sweet and sour kale), creative drinks, and a rotating selection of pastries.
While I waited in line last Saturday morning, I peeked into the open kitchen to watch pastry chefs rolling out dough and fluffy milk bread waiting to be made into kaya toast. The bakery was bustling with giddy Dogpatch residents eager to try their new neighborhood go-to, but the wait for my breakfast sandwich and black sesame cappuccino was short.
As I walked past the line again with my goodies in hand, multiple groups stopped to ask what I ordered since it looked so good. I sat outside along the pier to eat and was happy to discover that my sandwich was as delicious as it looked. The smoked ham, melty Gruyère, crispy fried egg, sweet and sour kale, and slightly spicy fermented pepper paste offered a harmonic balance of heat, salt, and richness.
While I sipped on my nutty and warm black sesame cappuccino, I listened to the group of friends next to me dig into their array of pastries and announce they were the best things they had eaten in a long time.
Building 12’s idyllic waterfront location and floor-to-ceiling windows create a peaceful place to enjoy a morning on the Bay while savoring a coffee and a pastry or exploring the other local creatives that have joined the space (check out our visit to Standard Deviant Brewing in a previous newsletter). Expanded indoor and outdoor seating for Breadbelly are in the works. Open Thu–Sun 9am–2pm. 1070 Maryland St. at 22nd St.
A New Mediterranean/Syrian Restaurant Opens on Polk Street
Both me and tablehopper media researcher Rebecca Kinney have been keeping our eyes on a new restaurant in my neighborhood, Karam, which recently opened in the former El Capitan Taqueria (once Miller’s East Coast West/Deli), next door to The Cinch in Polk Gulch.
Open daily 11am–10pm. 1725 Polk St. at Clay.
An Update on the Return of Don Ramón’s Mexican Restaurant in Their New Embarcadero Center Location
Every time I walk by the upcoming Don Ramón’s Mexican Restaurant at Embarcadero Center, I wonder to myself, when will their chile relleno be back in our lives? It was a sad day in 2023, when the Ramirez family had to close Don Ramón’s in SoMa, after 40 years of business (since 1982!). But a couple months later, I wrote about their new location (previously Rubio’s in Four Embarcadero Center). It has been a couple years since I’ve heard anything, and I kept pinging them on Instagram, and now there are finally signs of life!
They sent me a GoFundMe they just launched to get to the finish line. The fundraiser mentions: “With the help of family friend and seasoned restaurateur Greg Bronstein — who’s opened over 60 Mexican restaurants around the world — many of the interior upgrades are already done. We’re just 8 weeks from construction and reopening shortly after. All we need now is one final push.”
They also mention: “sweeping glass walls, views of a lush park on one side, and the energy of San Francisco’s Financial District on the other. It has indoor/outdoor seating, easy access to transit, and it’s just steps from the Ferry Plaza.”
They share more about all the travails they went through at their original location, and why they had to close. The family has been through a LOT, and this Legacy business could use our help to reopen and enjoy this new chapter in their SF story. Please donate, spread the word, and let’s get their enchiladas back in our bellies. With the sad closure of nearby Orale Orale, after 35 years, the neighborhood needs another longtime SF Mexican spot! 4 Embarcadero Center.
Expansions: Tadaima’s New Location in Cow Hollow, and Berkeley’s Grégoire Is Coming to SF’s Inner Sunset
By Olivia Casellini
Closures: Past, Upcoming, and Temporary
A joint piece by Marcia Gagliardi and Olivia Casellini
SFist reported Noe Valley restaurant and bar Mr. Digby’s has closed after four years. Owners Mike McCaffery and Kristen Gianaras McCaffery are still in the neighborhood at their sister restaurant, NOVY. 1199 Church St. at 24th St.
Mission Local was first to report Chava’s Restaurant is set to close on Tuesday July 15th, after 24 years of serving Mexican food in the Mission. Owner Elba Hernandez stopped serving food on June 29th, and is selling tableware and decorations before closing the restaurant permanently. Hernandez hopes to reopen in a smaller location in the future. 2839 Mission St. at 25th St.
On July 3rd, Cotogna announced via Instagram that their popular gelato cart is closed for the rest of July, but is set to return in August. 490 Pacific Ave. at Montgomery.
After being in the tiniest slip of a spot since 1997, Sushi Zone is closing on July 12th (a post on Facebook mentions the landlord didn’t renew their lease—last year, the SF Business Times reported a “new multilevel rooftop cocktail bar and Caribbean restaurant, doubling as a nightclub and event space called Dante’s Inferno” from Dante Buckley is coming to the location). Sushi Zone’s original owners (Hideko and Yoshi) sold the business and left a year ago, and the new ownership mentions looking to reopen somewhere, perhaps in the East Bay. I have so many memories of standing in line to eat there in the ’90s, it was one of the OG sushi spots in the City. [Via KRON] 1815 Market St. #5 at Pearl. ~MG
I noticed an Instagram post that said Smish Smash is temporarily closed at Saluhall—I reached out to their PR for an update, and they said it’s for personal reasons. Stand by. ~MG
Next Weekend: A Culinary Rummage Sale Hosted by Les Dames d’Escoffier
by Savannah Leone Bundy
On Saturday July 19th, the San Francisco chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier is hosting a rummage sale at Prospect Restaurant with some major goodies on the docket (think vintage and antique linens and serveware, professional-grade equipment, rare cookbooks, and more).
Les Dames—an international organization of some of the world’s top names in food, wine, and hospitality—supports women in the industry through fellowship, scholarship, mentorship, and general sisterhood. The upcoming rummage sale will serve as a fundraiser to help support the group’s many programs, and ultimately uplift femmes in food. As a past recipient of a Les Dames scholarship, I can personally attest to the goodwill and great work of the chapter—and as someone who’s familiar with many of the members, I can also attest to the quality of their tastes and assure you that you’re bound to find some certified treasures at the sale.
The event is free to the public and doesn’t require an RSVP, but you can still register in advance here for info and updates. Saturday July 19th. 10am–2pm. 300 Spear St. at Folsom.
the lush
Recent and Upcoming Bar Openings for Your Next Night Out
By Olivia Casellini
Mitch Lagneux’s The Valley Club opened in the former Benjamin Cooper in Hotel G near Union Square on June 12th. Lagneux previously worked at Brass Tacks, and this is his first ownership. Alcademics first reported that the space is a “sexy sexy lounge with lots of mirrors that feels like peak 1980s glamour without being retro.” Check out the playful menu in the post. Open Tue–Thu 6pm–12am and Fri–Sat 6pm–1am. 368 Geary St. at Mason.
Back in 2022, tablehopper was first to report the Future Bars team (known for Bourbon & Branch, and The Devil’s Acre on Columbus) was taking over the former È Tutto Qua corner location in North Beach. It’s a historic space, the Italian American Bank, opened in 1899 by Andrea Sbarboro: “the second bank in San Francisco to be owned and operated by and for Italians.”
And now, three years later, Alcademics recently reported that Future Bars is opening The Long Weekend there. Its first iteration will be “Long Weekend Havana” and is intended to offer guests the experience of a visit to Cuba. The Havana concept will run for nine months before transitioning to a new iteration, like Long Weekend Paris or Long Weekend Mexico City. The opening is set for August, so stay tuned for more details. 270 Columbus Ave. at Broadway.
In the Upper Haight, the team from The Red Tail beer and wine bars will breathe new life into the former Hobson’s Choice space with a new neighborhood bar, Green Heron, reported by Eater. Plan on shots and beers and classic cocktails, like Old Fashioneds and martinis. Stand by for more details about plans for the opening. 1601 Haight St. at Clayton.
hopper at home
It’s Time to Really Bring Home the Bacon (and Fry It Up in a Pan)
The Gagliardi sisters and our cousins are all huge fans of eggs Benedict, thanks to our fabulous grandmother, Judy (it was one of her favorite dishes, ever). Sis and I even made a pilgrimage to have it at the Waldorf Hotel in New York, one of the places where this iconic brunch dish was reportedly created.
Fortunately, San Francisco has a stellar eggs Benedict at Early to Rise in NoPa, thanks to chef-owner Andrew McCormack, who has assiduously workshopped this dish to perfection for years. He bakes their buttery English muffins, and his impeccable Hollandaise is made with browned butter (you’re going to notice a flavor unlike any other you’ve had), and the thick-cut, house-smoked Canadian bacon is another world entirely from those emulsified hockey pucks you always see. Honestly, it’s the best Canadian bacon I’ve ever had—I didn’t know it could taste like this. He brines pork loin with garlic, thyme, and bay leaves, and then slow-smokes it for six hours.
And, did you know you can buy a retail pack of it and cook it at home? Yeehaw! In my first article about his brick-and-mortar location, I wrote: “McCormack has a custom smoker being built, and he’s working with the California Department of Agriculture to be licensed to sell his house-smoked bacon and charcuterie for retail sale (possibly one of the only restaurants in SF to be able to do so). In fact, he’s now a certified meat processing inspector, so official!” Yeah, he really went the extra mile (as he does) to make and offer the best products he can.
So, not only can you buy his stellar Canadian bacon, you can also bring home his hickory-smoked bacon (heritage Duroc pork belly cured in-house with brown sugar and black pepper for two weeks, then smoked over hickory wood), and molasses ham (heritage Duroc legs marinated in molasses, garlic, and herbs for two weeks, then slow-smoked for six hours). These three retail products are sold in 12 oz. packs for $14–$15, and will remind you why pork is such a wonderful, magical animal.
I love frying up a couple slices of the Canadian bacon with my Chef’s Press to keep them flat (you gotta keep an eye on ’em, because they brown quickly, but I love getting the ham all golden brown and caramelized and making decadent egg sandwiches with it). You’ll be hooked. (It’s likely a good thing that I don’t live a block away from Early to Rise anymore, but still, wah.) 1801 McAllister St. at Baker.
the socialite
No Kid Hungry Dinner on July 27th Brings Together a Stellar Lineup of California Chefs
By Olivia Casellini
No Kid Hungry’s National Culinary Events Series is kicking off with a one-night-only dinner at Boulevard on Sunday July 27th to celebrate Share Our Strength’s 40th anniversary. The incredible lineup of California chefs includes Nancy Oakes and Dana Younkin of Boulevard, Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia, Daisy Ryan of Bell’s (Los Alamos), and co-founder of T’MARO brands, Elizabeth Falkner.
Tickets ($450/person) include a reception, four-course dinner, and wine pairings. All proceeds benefit No Kid Hungry. 5pm–8pm. 1 Mission St. at Steuart.
