This week's tablehopper: to the hip hip hop, and you don't stop.
Croque-madame heaven at Maman in NYC. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Greetings from the land of weird-ass weather, where it was snowing on Sunday and is now going to be 70 degrees tomorrow. I’m just rolling with it. Go on, New York! It was definitely entertaining to walk to and from the club on Sunday night while it was snowing (I went to Club Shelter’s 25th anniversary, one of the best house parties I have been to in ages). I mean, when the party is just three long blocks from your pad, you kinda have to go, even if it was a Sunday night. House nation!
Speaking of New York and music, have any of you been watching Vinyl on HBO? I am kind of loving it, even if it’s a little overdone. It takes place in the music industry in New York, 1973, with the intersection of disco, hip-hop, punk, and glam all happening at once—and Martin Scorsese and Mick Jagger are the exec producers. It’s pretty fun. The opening sequence is one of the most badass things ever. An electron microscope’s view of a needle moving through the grooves on a vinyl record? Brilliant.
I thought you’d get a kick out of these two pieces I wrote for Time Out: this one is on how big New York rats can get (ay yi yi!) and my other story was 20 things you’ll miss when you leave San Francisco.
A big thanks to all of you who bought tickets to the tablehopper Vietnamese and Vinho Verde feast in April! You sold that thing out in one day, whoa! But thanks to Vinho Verde wines, you still have a chance to win a pair of tickets! The contest ends tonight at midnight, so don’t delay!
I’d like to wish you a Happy Easter (Hoppy Easter?!) and see you next week!
Hop hop! Marcia Gagliardi
Gossip & News (the word on the street)
Waxman's (from Chef Jonathan Waxman) Opens Tonight in Ghirardelli Square
Opening this evening for dinner service is WAXMAN’S, the new Ghirardelli Square restaurant from chef Jonathan Waxman and partner Howard Greenstone. Their partnership, the Waxstone Group, also owns and operates NYC’s Jams, Nashville’s Adele’s and Bajo Sexto Taco and the forthcoming Bajo Sexto Taco Lounge, and Atlanta’s Brezza Cucina. But now Waxman, who was born and raised in Berkeley, is opening his first San Francisco restaurant.
The executive chef is David Suarez, and the market-fresh menu includes ingredient-driven pastas, wood-roasted vegetables, meats and fish, plus fresh salads. Dishes include baked Hammersley oysters with onion confit and brown butter; petrale sole crudo with avocado and orange salad; pea purée on toast; and charcoal-grilled market vegetables with Meyer lemon mayo. Pastas like spaghetti carbonara and risotto di mare with mussels, squid, and Dungeness crab will be served, plus entrées like wood-roasted steelhead with Treviso and romesco salsa and Jonathan’s signature JW chicken with salsa verde (yay).
David Lynch (previously St. Vincent) is behind the wine list, with new- and old-world selections, and around 20 wines by the glass. Patrick Poelvoorde has put together a list of handcrafted cocktails that will change with the seasons.
The 6,500-square-foot former warehouse has been given quite the restoration and transformation by Boor Bridges Architecture. Historic features include 130-year-old Douglas fir columns, original brick walls from the 1890s, double-height ceilings, two atriums, and expansive windows.
The dining room has 110 seats, with walnut tables and Thonet chairs, while the 75-seat café has cypress wood tables and Fermob chairs, plus there are 60 seats on the outdoor patio. There are two walnut bars seating 20, plus bentwood barstools, a communal table made out of reclaimed redwood logs that seats 10, and an oversized cypress and redwood service table that sits in the center of the restaurant. It makes sense that Evan Shively was involved when you hear about all the wood pieces, which include wall-mounted medallions from a felled cypress tree and the cutout interior of a walnut burl tree root that spans nine feet in diameter.
Open Sun-Wed 5pm-10pm and Thu-Sat 5pm-11pm. Bar open daily at 4pm. 900 North Point Street #201 at Larkin, 415-636-9700.
Openings: Revelry Bistro, Tender Loving Food, As Quoted, Hot Sauce and Panko
There are some new openings for you to add to your dance card. First up, we previously mentioned there was a taker for the former Samovar space in the Lower Haight, and now REVELRY BISTRO is open. Hoodline took a look at the cozy space, which now features local art. Chef-owner Brad Roth’s menu is succinct and French-inspired, and there’s an extensive wine list. Dinner is being launched first (Wed-Sun 5pm-10pm), with brunch coming next. 297 Page St. at Laguna, 415-241-6833.
Fans of Oakland’s Burmese outpost GROCERY CAFE can now enjoy chef-owner William Lue’s authentic cooking at TENDER LOVING FOOD in the Tenderloin. If you have a moment, you really should read these two stories that delve into his background and the altruistic motivation for opening this latest venture, which involves helping his fellow Burmese immigrants.
There’s a takeout menu with everything for $9 or less, and he’s offering a banquet menu too. The bare-bones space is just getting up and running, but after a few bites of Lue’s ohno khao swe (coconut chicken noodle) and Burmese tea leaf salad, that’s what all your attention will be fixed on. Expect more dishes to be added soon. You can also book a banquet dinner; call 925-566-4877. Open Mon-Thu 8am-11pm and Fri-Sun 11am-11pm. 393 Eddy St. at Leavenworth.
Now open in Presidio Heights is AS QUOTED, a casual but nicely designed space that can handle any dietary restrictions you may have, whether you’re dairy-, gluten-, nut-, or soy-free. The menu includes salads, sandwiches, soups, smoothies, and more. Eater reports the project is from sisters Kara and Andie Yamagami—they have a strong local focus, with coffee from Andytown, meats from Marin Sun Farms, and produce from Full Belly Farm. Beer and wine are coming too. Hours for now are Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, Sat 7am-2pm—Sundays will be coming soon. 3613 Sacramento St. at Locust, 415-914-0689.
Fans of the chicken wings and hot sauces from HOT SAUCE AND PANKO, previously in the Richmond, has relocated and reopened in the U-Lee space in Lower Nob Hill (the building they were in was going to be demolished). You can get wings to go (no table service) and take your pick from their extensive hot sauce collection. They will be adding confit/fried duck legs with a brandied hoisin sauce soon, oh yeah. Open Wed-Sat 11:30am-7pm and Sun 11:30am-5pm. 1468 Hyde St. at Jackson, 415-359-1908.
Coming Soon: Barzotto to Former St. Vincent Space, The Lodge to Lower Haight
The taker for the former St. Vincent space on Valencia has been revealed: it’s Marko Sotto, who has been working as director of operations in Adriano Paganini’s restaurant group for Beretta, Starbelly, Pesce, and more. This new project is his own, which he is calling BARZOTTO, an “American pasta bar.” The chef will be Michelle Minori, who is currently executive sous chef of the Ne Timeas group (Flour + Water, Aatxe, Cafe du Nord, Salumeria, and Central Kitchen).
The menu will feature housemade pasta, made daily in front of guests. Five pastas will be highlighted, from classics like bucatini all’amatriciana to three seasonal pastas, plus salads, roasted meats, vegetable sides, and housemade gelato for affogatos.
The restaurant will be “fine casual,” meaning you order at the counter (like at Souvla), and your food is brought to you. The wine list will span California and Italy. There will also be a retail section, with pasta available by the pound, sauces, and gelato. Look for an opening in late summer. 1270 Valencia St. at 24th St.
The former Rickybobby in the Lower Haight is going to open as THE LODGE ON HAIGHT (no relation to the recently opened The Lodge in Oakland) in April. The chef is Matt Nudelman (previously Greenburger’s), who is opening the project with co-owner Tim Felkner of Vigilante Hospitality (Oro). Hoodline reports it will be a fast-casual spot, with burgers, mac and cheese, and other comfort food dishes made with local and organic ingredients. Beer and wine and of course an interior that’s heavy on the wood are also in the plan. 400 Haight St. at Webster.
The Elite Cafe Closing on Easter, Triptych in SoMa Closed
A couple of old-timers are closing around the city, starting with THE ELITE CAFE on Fillmore. We saw some ABC license activity, and Scoop caught the story that Andrew Chun (Schroeder’s) is taking over the 35-year-old restaurant space from current owner Peter Snyderman, who has had the restaurant the past 10 years. While it’s not clear what Chun’s plans are for the location, the name and New Orleans roots will remain intact. I was sorry to read that talented chef James London is heading back to South Carolina to open his own place—best wishes. The Elite’s last service will be Easter brunch (March 27th). 2049 Fillmore St. at California, 415-346-8400.
A tablehopper reader let us know that longtime SoMa restaurant TRIPTYCH had a “for lease” sign in the window, and now an ABC license suspension hit the wires (looks like tax issues). According to Yelp, the restaurant is now closed. We’ll have to see what’s next for the space, which features a garden patio. 1155 Folsom St. at Rausch.
New Service at Piccino, Oro, Delarosa
Great news (especially for industry folks): PICCINO in Dogpatch is going to be open on Mondays from now on, starting Monday March 28th. You can come by for lunch from 11am-3pm, a limited snack menu from 3-5pm, and dinner from 5-10pm. And to celebrate, a new tradition will be Fiorentina Mondays, offering a seared bistecca for two people—the T-bone steak is coming from Dogpatch neighbor Olivier’s Butchery. Wine director Danny DeMartini will be putting together a small reserve list with some great steak pairings, by the glass and bottle.
ORO in Mint Plaza has launched weekday lunch (Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm), with dishes like chicken and sprouted grain salad with soft-cooked egg, and a burger with charred onions, Gruyère, and housemade pickles. Everything is available to go as well. There is also a new happy hour Mon-Fri 4pm-6pm. 8 Mint Plaza, 415-974-1212.
In the Marina, DELAROSA is now offering a late-night menu, with special food and drink items from 11pm until 1am Sun-Thu, like a meatball sandwich, cacio e pepe pasta, and a calzone. 2175 Chestnut St. at Pierce, 415-673-7100.
Cawfee Tawk: Coffee Cultures Opens Their Second Location in SoMa
We mentioned last spring that COFFEE CULTURES was opening a second location in SoMa in the new Panoramic apartment building, and Hoodline caught the opening. The first Coffee Cultures in SF is at 225 Bush St., which uses Counter Culture Coffee from North Carolina. This location will offer quite a bit more: in a month or so, there will also be a wine and beer bar open until midnight and lunch service too. For now, come on by for coffee and tea, plus pastries from Patisserie Philippe and Starter Bakery. Open Mon-Fri 7am-7pm and Sat-Sun 8am-7pm. 1301 Mission St. at 9th St., 415-896-4272.
Big 510 Update: Blind Tiger Opens, Second Noodle Theory, and More
We heard from the folks behind BLIND TIGER RESTAURANT AND BAR, who have opened a restaurant in Uptown serving pan-Asian tapas and gastropub fare, with craft cocktails and 20 beers on tap. The menu includes a range of dishes from the raw bar, plus a variety of hot and cold dishes, all priced around $8 or so and the right style to go with cocktails.
The chef is Deena Chafetz, who cooked on the East Coast and specializes in Japanese and Thai. Bar manager Liam Gilmore was previously at Boot & Shoe, Penrose, Flora, Fauna, and more. All the cocktails feature fresh-squeezed citrus, housemade syrups and bitters, and fresh fruit garnishes. The 8,000-square-foot space has about 200 seats and was vacant for more than 20 years—it was previously a disco nightclub. It’s an underground space so look for the tiger’s head out front. Open nightly 5pm-1am, full kitchen open to 11pm, with a happy hour menu (with $1 oysters) from 5pm-7pm and 11pm-1am. 2600B Telegraph Ave. at 27th St., Oakland, 510-899-9694.
There’s a new chef at the helm at CALAVERA in Oakland: Sophina Uong is taking over for opening chef Christian Irabien. She was most recently at Revival Bar & Kitchen in Berkeley and Picàn in Oakland. 2337 Broadway at 23rd St., Oakland, 510-338-3273.
NOODLE THEORY in Rockridge has opened a second (and very spacious) location on San Pablo in Emeryville—look for an expanded menu as well. Hours are Wed-Mon 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-9:30pm, closed Tue. 5849 San Pablo Ave. at 59th St., Emeryville, 510-922-8619.
Speaking of noodles, if you can’t wait to try Kyle Itani of Hopscotch’s ramen from his upcoming ITANI RAMEN, you can attend a pop-up series before the restaurant opens in mid-April. The pop-ups will feature a very limited menu, with ramen from different regions and housemade gyoza. Running March 25th-27th, and April 1st-3rd and 8th-10th; follow along on Facebook for updates. 6pm to midnight. 1736 Telegraph Ave. at 18th St., Oakland, 510-788-7489.
The vintage car dealership CLASSIC CARS WEST has opened a beer garden (plus there’s a bar inside), serving food by Hella Vegan Eats. Eater reports that the beer list spotlights local brews like Linden Street, Ghost Town, and Ale Industries, plus cider from Crooked City. Open Wed-Sat 5pm-10pm, plus brunch Sun 11am-4pm. 411 26th St. at Telegraph, Oakland, 415-626-1135.
In case you missed it, NABOLOM BAKERY (2708 Russell St., Berkeley, 510-845-2253) is open once again, and there’s a new place to have “exactly like you want it” espresso drinks at ALGORITHM COFFEE. 1122 University Ave. at Curtis, Berkeley, 510-280-5153.
Bar News & Reviews (put it on my tab)
Get Your Tickets for Fizz & Pop: Spring Cocktails of the Farmers Market, and SF International Beer Fest
Fans of the fabulous CUESA and United States Bartenders’ Guild cocktail events, you have another one to put on your calendar: Fizz & Pop: Spring Cocktails of the Farmers Market will be on Wednesday April 27th. Twenty-plus local bartenders and chefs will be creating bubbly drinks and bites inspired by the bounty of the spring farmers’ market (berries in effect!), with a pop soundtrack spanning the Beatles to Beyoncé. Some of the bartender talent includes Megan Daniel and Alex Smith of Whitechapel, Nora Furst of Lolinda, Tim Hagney of Maven, and Jessica Maria of the Hotsy Totsy Club. And here’s the best part: tablehopper readers get 15 percent off the $60 tickets with this link! Cheers to that. You’ll get three full-sized cocktails and unlimited sample-sized drinks. 5:30pm-8pm. The Ferry Building Grand Hall (second floor), 1 Ferry Building.
Craft beer fans, tickets are now on sale for the 33rd annual San Francisco International Beer Festival to be held May 21st at Fort Mason Center’s Festival Pavilion. There will be hundreds of beers from brewers like Magnolia Brewing Co., North Coast Brewing Co., San Francisco Brewing Co., Pine Street Brewery, and Carneros Brewing Co., plus international beers from Baja Brewing Co. and Cabo’s first craft brewery. There will also be talks and plenty of eats, with food from Mission Bowling Club, Rosamunde Sausage Grill, duck tacos from the GreenGrocer, Belcampo Meat Co., and Pizza Orgasmica. Tickets start at $75. 7pm-10pm. Festival Pavilion, Fort Mason Center.
Shindigs, Feasts, & Festivals (let's party)
Hop to These Easter Brunch and Dinner Options
Sunday Mar 27, 2016
Sunday March 27th is Easter Sunday, and here are a few ideas for you to consider. Buona Pasqua!
At 54 MINT, they will be offering a three-course family-style menu, with dishes like pizza pasquale (savory Easter bread, pecorino, guanciale) and slow-roasted lamb with rosemary, white wine, and roasted potatoes. Reservations available from 12pm to 8pm ($50 per person—tax, gratuity, and beverages not included).
The Presidio has all kinds of options, and it’s nice to walk around before or after your meal. PRESIDIO SOCIAL CLUB will have a bay shrimp Louie salad and a slow-roasted Devil’s Gulch pork leg with soft-poached egg, fried potatoes, and salsa verde for brunch, and a 12-hour smoked leg of lamb with asparagus and chimichurri sauce for dinner. Check out more details here. Try to snag a table on the outdoor deck for brunch service.
THE COMMISSARY is hosting a special brunch from 11am-3pm, with dishes like rhubarb cinnamon crumb coffee cake, and eggs poached en tomate e chorizo. Reservations: 415-561-3600.
Meanwhile, Traci Des Jardins’s other restaurant, ARGUELLO, will be serving brunch from 11am-4pm, with huevos rancheros, shrimp tacos, and more. Again, hope for a patio seat. Reservations: 415-561-3650.
For something a little different, consider the flavor-packed brunch at DOSA ON FILLMORE and DOSA ON VALENCIA. They will be serving their usual brunch menu (and cocktails), plus a few additions too.
Don’t forget the new brunch happening at LOCANDA.
And for those of you who would like an Easter Brunch KRONNERBURGER style, you can feast on sticky buns, Betty’s biscuits, housemade English muffins, eggs with crab and caviar, dry-aged prime rib, Mangalitsa ham, and crispy lamb neck. Served 10am-4pm. Reservations here.
You’ll find many more Easter options on OpenTable.